Thanks a lot for your review, Nick! Your silver tongue makes our stern workers blush as teens on their first date! With best regards, Alex. Kvetun host.
you probably dont care but does any of you know of a way to log back into an instagram account..? I was stupid lost the password. I would appreciate any tricks you can offer me
@Leroy Kian Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and im in the hacking process atm. Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
A 20 minute video with no commercials? You're doing it wrong! 😈 A couple weeks back I was looking for exactly this, and I found nothing leaving me to think the project had been shelved for the time being. Glad to learn it's alive and well!
Got mine over a month ago and its a beautiful piece of kit. Thanks to Kvetun...Highly recommended and the only thing that slowed delivery was UK customs!
finaly someone rolling the edges forward! - now for the swedish version, a riveted knucklebow on the outside of the bowl - to bring the weight up past 900g and a bit extra hook at the back. thanks for the reviev! and bring back the PoB some. (ideal is 6-8cm PoB)
I think I spotted a small error in this review. At 8:43 you talk about the guards on the first REGENYEI models being more enclosed because they're using regular leather gloves in Russia. I'm sure you meant the first KVETUN models.
I will do a long term follow up review soon, but in short we have broken one blade out of 8 of this type in our clubs. and that was my personal one which gets the most use, I'd say thats a reasonable wear and tear loss. I still think just the same, they are the best military sabre bowl hilt on the market.
We don't have any of the current Regenyei bowl hilt military sabres in the club as they're simply not very good. I have absolutely no doubt the Kvetun edges will hold up against them though.
They are nothing like one another so can't really be compared. The BF three bar is the blade of the 1796 sabre, so short and well curved. It's size and handling characteristics are a world apart. Both good weapons though. It's much more down to what sort of sword you want it to represent.
Hello! I love the videos and the reviews! Recently they came out with a lot of variation parts for this including lightly curved and heavy curved blades and a variety of different hilts. Would it be possible for you to revisit this sword with some of these options explored? Love the videos keep up the good work!!
Absolutely. I have the slot hilt as it was first made as a custom for me. I also have the most curved blade, and aso a custom shortened version that is 80cm. I will revisit this soon.
You need to put a washer in it's blade to buttress against the shoulder of the tang and also ensure the grip staps in the correct position to the shaped tang, but yes. However it would be quite a long blade for a shaska. They will do different lengths and custom though. I am sure they'd make what you want.
What are everyone's thoughts on something that represents late 18th and early 19th century British military sabres? My Regenyei "strong" broke in sparring a week ago so I'm looking for a replacement. This looks very good, but is it maybe a touch on the light side?
This one is well suited to representing sabres of the 1822-1892 period (and beyond in some cases). It is also close to some 1796 heavy cavalry officers swords. But overall, if you want a Napoloenic era sabre, the best source are the Black Fencer steel generation range. See our recent video on their 1803 model, and they also make a simple stirrup hilt option. The Easton model is a good all rounder though.
@@AcademyofHistoricalFencing Thanks for your feedback. This is a strong contender, in that case. I just need to get some people together for a group buy so the postage isn't too ruinous!
Hi could you please give me the exact specs of that antique training sabre with the rolled tip? weight, length, thickness, PoB, thanks in advance, I'm trying to make a few.
No. The only experience I ever had with a VB sabre was seeing it cave in and break the finger of the user a few minutes after purchase. They seem to have improved some things since then, but still no rolled edge. The mix of blade length, weight and guard type also don't really match any sort of sabre most sabre people use.
Nick -- have you handled Castille's 23mm Trooper sabres? If so, how would you compare these? It seems the POB on these MIGHT be closer to the guard and therefore they'd be a bit livelier. What do you think?
@@AcademyofHistoricalFencing -- Thanks. I have two of the 23mm ones and I recently got 2 of the econ baskethilts. I am very impressed by the latter. I will give one of these Kvetun's a try. Thanks again.
I didn't. We had four as an early test batch and they only made them in straight at that time as they sorted out the durability and heat treat issues of the new dumbell blades. Given a choice I would have had the lightly curved version. That said, the straight blade is great. I also have the most curved blade option that came on another different sabre. That one adds a lot of weight, 80g.
As above, around 25 celcius and above. This week the UK is around 30, with tomorrow maybe hitting 38 in parts. Now factor in the three studio lights that point at me when shooting indoors!
I am no academic. In german academic fencing, those student groups use the ,Pauksäbel' for training, and the partly sharpened ,Schläger' for ,Mensur'. Perhaps those Pauksäbel are also ,relative' to other old style thaining sabers.
I have puchased several products from Kvetun already. Slippery leather grips have been a problem on all of them. To make matters worse, Kvetun usually smear a lot of machine oil on their products. Oil gets absorbed by the leather, so it becomes even more slippery and your hands stink like hell after a training session.
Perhaps try this - put some talcum powder on the leather and leave overnight. It should pull some of the oil out and you just wipe it off in the morning. repeat as necessary with a soft cloth and when happy put some dubbin on, see how it feels :)
Thanks a lot for your review, Nick! Your silver tongue makes our stern workers blush as teens on their first date!
With best regards,
Alex. Kvetun host.
Saucy.
you probably dont care but does any of you know of a way to log back into an instagram account..?
I was stupid lost the password. I would appreciate any tricks you can offer me
@Daniel Dominick Instablaster ;)
@Leroy Kian Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and im in the hacking process atm.
Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Leroy Kian it worked and I actually got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thanks so much you saved my ass :D
That 3-bar at 4:21 is insanely sexy!
A 20 minute video with no commercials? You're doing it wrong! 😈
A couple weeks back I was looking for exactly this, and I found nothing leaving me to think the project had been shelved for the time being. Glad to learn it's alive and well!
If they came with a basket hilted option that would be amazing. Excellent review, Nick. I know when they come available in the US, I would like some.
They do custom orders, just message them.
Got mine over a month ago and its a beautiful piece of kit. Thanks to Kvetun...Highly recommended and the only thing that slowed delivery was UK customs!
finaly someone rolling the edges forward! - now for the swedish version, a riveted knucklebow on the outside of the bowl - to bring the weight up past 900g and a bit extra hook at the back. thanks for the reviev! and bring back the PoB some. (ideal is 6-8cm PoB)
I think I spotted a small error in this review. At 8:43 you talk about the guards on the first REGENYEI models being more enclosed because they're using regular leather gloves in Russia. I'm sure you meant the first KVETUN models.
Indeed, talking about too many companies all at once!
Great review: thorough and clear. (And matches my experience with Kvetun’s sabres.)
Helpful review. Thanks for posting.
I like that British army training sword! Thanks for sharing.
The windscreen for the lavaliere mic should be in the garden, if you didn't find it already. Great review.
Great review with all points covered, (no pun intended... lol)
Great review, Nick! Well done! :)
what is the Kvetun Easton like compare to a SIGI ?? anyone know ?
Going on 3 years: how have they held up, and how do you feel about them now?
I will do a long term follow up review soon, but in short we have broken one blade out of 8 of this type in our clubs. and that was my personal one which gets the most use, I'd say thats a reasonable wear and tear loss. I still think just the same, they are the best military sabre bowl hilt on the market.
Did you use these sabers also agains Regenyei one, curious of they still don't take a dent against these heavier blades.
We don't have any of the current Regenyei bowl hilt military sabres in the club as they're simply not very good. I have absolutely no doubt the Kvetun edges will hold up against them though.
After taking one of these very swords to a tournent I am pleased to report they hold up without any visual signs of damage.
Curious to know, do you know how it compares the new blackfencer steel 3 bar? and which would be your pick?
They are nothing like one another so can't really be compared. The BF three bar is the blade of the 1796 sabre, so short and well curved. It's size and handling characteristics are a world apart. Both good weapons though. It's much more down to what sort of sword you want it to represent.
Hello! I love the videos and the reviews! Recently they came out with a lot of variation parts for this including lightly curved and heavy curved blades and a variety of different hilts. Would it be possible for you to revisit this sword with some of these options explored? Love the videos keep up the good work!!
Absolutely. I have the slot hilt as it was first made as a custom for me. I also have the most curved blade, and aso a custom shortened version that is 80cm. I will revisit this soon.
Could you take the guard of and use it as a shashka or would the handle rattle around to much?
You need to put a washer in it's blade to buttress against the shoulder of the tang and also ensure the grip staps in the correct position to the shaped tang, but yes. However it would be quite a long blade for a shaska. They will do different lengths and custom though. I am sure they'd make what you want.
What are everyone's thoughts on something that represents late 18th and early 19th century British military sabres? My Regenyei "strong" broke in sparring a week ago so I'm looking for a replacement. This looks very good, but is it maybe a touch on the light side?
This one is well suited to representing sabres of the 1822-1892 period (and beyond in some cases). It is also close to some 1796 heavy cavalry officers swords. But overall, if you want a Napoloenic era sabre, the best source are the Black Fencer steel generation range. See our recent video on their 1803 model, and they also make a simple stirrup hilt option. The Easton model is a good all rounder though.
@@AcademyofHistoricalFencing Thanks for your feedback. This is a strong contender, in that case. I just need to get some people together for a group buy so the postage isn't too ruinous!
Hi could you please give me the exact specs of that antique training sabre with the rolled tip? weight, length, thickness, PoB, thanks in advance, I'm trying to make a few.
have you tried the vb light sabre?
No. The only experience I ever had with a VB sabre was seeing it cave in and break the finger of the user a few minutes after purchase. They seem to have improved some things since then, but still no rolled edge. The mix of blade length, weight and guard type also don't really match any sort of sabre most sabre people use.
@@AcademyofHistoricalFencing Thanks
Nick -- have you handled Castille's 23mm Trooper sabres? If so, how would you compare these? It seems the POB on these MIGHT be closer to the guard and therefore they'd be a bit livelier. What do you think?
I've only handled the heavier blade, and it felt a little bit dead in the hand. I've heard people say good things about the 23mm.
@@AcademyofHistoricalFencing -- Thanks. I have two of the 23mm ones and I recently got 2 of the econ baskethilts. I am very impressed by the latter. I will give one of these Kvetun's a try. Thanks again.
Fuck yeah audio quality!
I must have missed it, but why did you choose the straight version over the other curved versions?
I didn't. We had four as an early test batch and they only made them in straight at that time as they sorted out the durability and heat treat issues of the new dumbell blades. Given a choice I would have had the lightly curved version. That said, the straight blade is great. I also have the most curved blade option that came on another different sabre. That one adds a lot of weight, 80g.
Just curious...what's considered a heat wave in your part of the world?
Anything above 4°C.
But really, we're are 34°C. Usually not above 26°C.
As above, around 25 celcius and above. This week the UK is around 30, with tomorrow maybe hitting 38 in parts. Now factor in the three studio lights that point at me when shooting indoors!
@@AcademyofHistoricalFencing Playing with swords in the garden? Do you need an excuse?
I am no academic. In german academic fencing, those student groups use the ,Pauksäbel' for training, and the partly sharpened ,Schläger' for ,Mensur'. Perhaps those Pauksäbel are also ,relative' to other old style thaining sabers.
I wish that I could find a way to purchase Kvetun blades in the US without having to use Facebook.
Just go through their website - kvetun-armoury.com/
@@AcademyofHistoricalFencing They won't ship to the US. They direct you to kvetun.sales.usa@gmail.com, where no one ever replies.
Hey check out the new line of steel sabres I just released. 150 rrp
I have puchased several products from Kvetun already. Slippery leather grips have been a problem on all of them.
To make matters worse, Kvetun usually smear a lot of machine oil on their products.
Oil gets absorbed by the leather, so it becomes even more slippery and your hands stink like hell after a training session.
Perhaps try this - put some talcum powder on the leather and leave overnight. It should pull some of the oil out and you just wipe it off in the morning. repeat as necessary with a soft cloth and when happy put some dubbin on, see how it feels :)
uploaded 36 seconds ago holee
И тут кветунь засветилась