Thank you Matt for the thorough review and thanks to everyone for watching. We did want to touch on the topic of distal taper, since it is such a large part of the review. The Sentinel is in fact distal tapered in the second half of the blade. (2lbs 6.4 oz bare blade weight before distal taper, to 2lbs 0.5 oz after distal taper is ground in) As a reference, Matt shows the side of the tip at 7:11. The thickest part of the tip is approximately the same thickness as the base of the blade (4.75mm). The contrast between the flared tip and the thinnest part of the blade just before it is a visual representation of the distal taper. The first half of the Sentinel, where the fullers are, is slightly beveled which makes the edges thinner than the center, which helps with weight reduction. This can create the illusion that the edge is the same thickness the whole way down, but the center of the stock is thicker than at the edges. We are in contact with Matt about this detail and hope to have it reviewed with exact measurements. We really appreciate everyone for taking the time to watch this review and learn about the Sentinel. If you have any questions about our products or Krieger Armory in general, don't hesitate to ask using our contact form on kriegerarmory.com.
Though i agree with Matts preferences on changes required to reduce wobbliness, and would want changes, i can see the quality in this manufacture and in no way has Matt's review soured me away from buying a Krieger. a really good looking forge, especially that grip and how solid it is.
Hi Michael! Providing a customer is willing to pay shipping and import fees and that swords are legal to own in your country, we will ship anywhere in the world. We have previously sent an order to Australia and have one going to Singapore in the next week or two!
@@michaelsmith8028 sure thing! So long as they are legal to own there, we would be happy to ship to South Africa. Please email us and we can give you a dedicated shipping quote.
A complaint I've seen made about feders (I think you've articulated it as well) is that their characteristics make them *almost* identical to real longswords as far as handling is concerned, but not quite even aside from the inclusion of the schilt and being blunt. Given that we don't go around whacking each other with real sword these days, do you consider swords like that one superior to feders in the sense that one ought to train with the weapon one expects to use, say in tournament?
On second thought now that I've seen the end of this episode I totally agree with what Krieger arms has done with this sparring tool. But for aesthetic purposes yes I would change out the way the fullerring was done
Good review I just think he could have briefly talked about how the fuller is used to reduce the weight of the blade while very minimally reducing the sword's strength. I have never thought about why it is made that way until I looked it up.
It looks like those fuller were milled with a ball end tip (wouldn't surprise me if the blades were all CNC cut given how they're a consistent thickness). But if they added some distil taper to the blade and then threw that in a mill, you would get a taper to the fullers also.
Hi Matt, I've just watched "The King's Man" movie and would like to get your review of the fight scene at the end. By the way I am ignoring the sword being carried on his back.
I mean, given that he was climbing a mountain, I wouldn’t say it’s a bad thing to carry a sword on the back. Carrying on the hip might make things awkward for climbing.
@@TrueMentorGuidingMoonlight but he wasn't meant to be climbing the mountain, you could make the argument that it's out of the way when parachuting but keeping it on his back when on flat ground and drawing it from his back from what looks like a standard scabbard.
As a non-practitioner of Hema, I'd think that this sword would come closest to the real deal as a practice sword, perhaps with some adjustments as Matt suggested. From a security point of view the sword might be over-kill in risk of injuries, which limits it's application to more experienced fighters, who have more control over the sword. This is absolutely no beginners sword from my perspective! Perhaps somebody could give some input on my thoughts....
We also offer an octagonal scent stopper pommel and a smooth scent stopper pommel for the Sentinel and our feders. All three options are the same weight to ensure consistency, so a different pommel shape wouldn't affect handling.
I've had the flared tip from a kreiger armory sword punch through my 350n jacket. Use a rubber blunt if you're fencing your friends. Nice sword, though!
I practice using Pickle Barrel I'm not worried about being struck I had to build a harness that exceeded head-and-neck strike standards when I originally started building my own armor and my harness is designed specifically for the Sentinel as that was my original final goal anyways and yes I see your signal has chips that has been made broad instead of turned back on itself that I'm sure you could ask them simply to put a full weld across the flared tip as the standards around here are 1/2 by 3/16 with the ability to spring back to True from 90 degree bend honestly I've got to say you're Sentinel would be considered subpar has a full contact sparring trainer I can still use it I'd merely have to switch the Tippin apply a roll pin. For my shop really just a minor inconvenience. On second thought continuing to examine displayed I'm liking it very much but I still disagree with the amount of spring they seem to have given it I would have to test myself to be sure and I'm pretty certain the wobbliness of the blade is why they ignored the distal taper and the weight is the reason for the Fuller's being as deep as they are do I agree with you the way they designed the fullers is visually just off
We offer a slightly shorter grip option that is one of the standard choices when checking out. Matt's grip is 10", and the other option is 9.25". Hope this helps!
How would it be if you sharpened it? I ask because it seems to be a very well made sword with a great heat tempering. I just dont know if the steel used would hold a good edge
1095 will assuming a good heat treatment. However the blade is made to be very flexible...too flexible for sharp swords. I would not recommend sharpen the blade.
Hi Lance! We wouldn't recommend sharpening a Sentinel. It is designed to be a blunt sword, which is reflected in the weight distribution, flexibility and edge thickness. Adding an edge would change these factors and make it a completely different sword, as well as voiding the warranty. However, we did make a custom sharp as a gold prize for CombatCon last year with 1095 and had no issues with it holding an edge.
The fact that it tapers from hilt to tip means that it has more mass and inertia at the center of percussion (nearer the tip)?? "Reinforces" statement by saying "It has less mass down here" (where it's 2+" wide) and "more mass up here" (where it's less than 1"). While there's some possibility that the fullers could make that statement true, that isn't what he said at all.
Not going to lie, I've been looking for a new trainer for a long time. I've been rocking my old Hanwei training longsword for years and it's, frankly not very good.
1095 doesn't seem like an ideal steel for a practice sword. If you have any control when you are partnering with a company to produce swords especially something designed for practice there are better steels 8670 or 5160 whilw not as cheap as 1095 are both inexpensive and far far tougher.
I am of the school that you should train with what you fight with. That applies as much today as it would have 500 years ago. In this case if you are training longsword then you should be using a blunt training version that is as close to your fighting sword as possible. Feders are a pore substitute for a longsword and should have no place in anyone's training. Most blunt practice longswords are too flexible as is your example in this video. A blade that is too flexible doesn't perform correctly when parrying or in the bind. As long as you are wearing adequate armor you should be able to safely spar with a stiff bladed sword.
What would you call adequate armour? Even with a good fencing jacket, a heavy sword than doesn't flex much is going to bruise. Even with good gauntlets, it increases the chance of broken fingers. Also thrusts are going to be far more dangerous. If you're talking about using plate armour, that goes against what many people are training for when it comes to longsword. It completely changes the techniques you use. It's all about balancing safety with authenticity.
Feders are historical training tools though, so even fencing masters in the 1500s believed they held a valuable place in one’s training. Feders are not modern inventions for HEMA, there is a reason they exist. They compliment a holistic training regimen.
So if I own an Albion Crecy, I should buy another one just to blunt it and train with? I don't think that's reasonable. I'd rather use an Albion Epee de Guerre or Lichtenauer, since they're cheaper and less likely to injure.
So are you advocating using sharpest blades in training? Since I have no intrest, nor am in danger of using a Sword "in real life" so anything that helps me learn basic sword skills is fine... I.E. a stick.
I'm glad you were able to get Matt Easton for this video. He's a great recurring guest star.
Thank you Matt for the thorough review and thanks to everyone for watching. We did want to touch on the topic of distal taper, since it is such a large part of the review. The Sentinel is in fact distal tapered in the second half of the blade. (2lbs 6.4 oz bare blade weight before distal taper, to 2lbs 0.5 oz after distal taper is ground in) As a reference, Matt shows the side of the tip at 7:11. The thickest part of the tip is approximately the same thickness
as the base of the blade (4.75mm). The contrast between the flared tip and the thinnest part of the blade just before it is a visual representation of the distal taper. The first half of the Sentinel, where the fullers are, is slightly beveled which makes the edges thinner than the center, which helps with weight reduction. This can create the illusion that the edge is the same thickness the whole way down, but the center of the stock is thicker than at the edges. We are in contact with Matt about this detail and hope to have it reviewed with exact measurements. We really appreciate everyone for taking the time to watch this review and learn about the Sentinel. If you have any questions about our products or Krieger Armory
in general, don't hesitate to ask using our contact form on kriegerarmory.com.
*Shakes fist* darn you engineers making my eyes feel bad.
Though i agree with Matts preferences on changes required to reduce wobbliness, and would want changes, i can see the quality in this manufacture and in no way has Matt's review soured me away from buying a Krieger. a really good looking forge, especially that grip and how solid it is.
I’m glad to hear that once you put two hands on it, it gets much stiffer.
That’s what she said 😂
i'd love to see a comparison between this sword and the Sigi King
I wish that sword companies would ship to other countries outside of America or Europe. A man can only dream.
3:34 I thought that in Fiore you not supposed to cross the hands.
Hi Michael! Providing a customer is willing to pay shipping and import fees and that swords are legal to own in your country, we will ship anywhere in the world. We have previously sent an order to Australia and have one going to Singapore in the next week or two!
I hear Ukraine is taking anyone they can get 👀
@@kriegerarmory7631 Do you guys ship to South Africa?
@@michaelsmith8028 sure thing! So long as they are legal to own there, we would be happy to ship to South Africa. Please email us and we can give you a dedicated shipping quote.
I absolutely love my Krieger Armory arming sword. 10/10 would get another Krieger. Oh wait I am. So make that 10/10 will get a third Krieger.
but can they... fly??
@@chansonducygne if you throw them they do for atleast a little while
I would love for you to do a review of one of the BlackFencer Steel generation longswords.
I love the metal twistys. Correct me if I'm wrong but when you Do see it on historical swords it's Usually a german thing, no?
“When you hold it in two hands it becomes quite a lot stiffer.”
It looks like it would be a great cinema sword.
A complaint I've seen made about feders (I think you've articulated it as well) is that their characteristics make them *almost* identical to real longswords as far as handling is concerned, but not quite even aside from the inclusion of the schilt and being blunt.
Given that we don't go around whacking each other with real sword these days, do you consider swords like that one superior to feders in the sense that one ought to train with the weapon one expects to use, say in tournament?
Love the type VI cross.
On second thought now that I've seen the end of this episode I totally agree with what Krieger arms has done with this sparring tool. But for aesthetic purposes yes I would change out the way the fullerring was done
Good review I just think he could have briefly talked about how the fuller is used to reduce the weight of the blade while very minimally reducing the sword's strength. I have never thought about why it is made that way until I looked it up.
Very nice!🤗
Thanks for the review
Matt! You did not mention how the flex was! Was it good, bad? What poundage would you say it flexes at?
It looks like those fuller were milled with a ball end tip (wouldn't surprise me if the blades were all CNC cut given how they're a consistent thickness).
But if they added some distil taper to the blade and then threw that in a mill, you would get a taper to the fullers also.
Hi and thanks for the video. Are these swords available in the UK?
Hi Matt, I've just watched "The King's Man" movie and would like to get your review of the fight scene at the end. By the way I am ignoring the sword being carried on his back.
I mean, given that he was climbing a mountain, I wouldn’t say it’s a bad thing to carry a sword on the back. Carrying on the hip might make things awkward for climbing.
@@TrueMentorGuidingMoonlight but he wasn't meant to be climbing the mountain, you could make the argument that it's out of the way when parachuting but keeping it on his back when on flat ground and drawing it from his back from what looks like a standard scabbard.
@@redneckkhoekhoe6511 Ohh, that. Yeah, that’s worth sinning. Thanks for pointing that out.
windlass update?
When when we get a Longsword with a knucklebow?
What would be the reason to go to 1075 ? Wouldn't it get chewed up easier than this sample in sparring ?
As a non-practitioner of Hema, I'd think that this sword would come closest to the real deal as a practice sword, perhaps with some adjustments as Matt suggested. From a security point of view the sword might be over-kill in risk of injuries, which limits it's application to more experienced fighters, who have more control over the sword. This is absolutely no beginners sword from my perspective! Perhaps somebody could give some input on my thoughts....
Would other pommel shapes reduce the wobble factor compared to the wheel/disc?
We also offer an octagonal scent stopper pommel and a smooth scent stopper pommel for the Sentinel and our feders. All three options are the same weight to ensure consistency, so a different pommel shape wouldn't affect handling.
has anyone ever tried dipping a flared tip in some kind of epoxy to bulk up the tip? might weigh less and look better. not sure but maybe
Epoxy would be too brittle and not stand up to sparring.
Rubber tool dip is what you would want, and thats a good idea!
Its so pretty, I wish they offered a sharp version.
I want to try to sharpen a practice sword and use it for cutting (as an experiment.)
What would be cool is a Kriegmesser from Krieg 😁
With no distal taper the fullers won’t fade out naturally.
I would personally like to test a longsword.
I've had the flared tip from a kreiger armory sword punch through my 350n jacket. Use a rubber blunt if you're fencing your friends. Nice sword, though!
And no I'm trying like hell to type this out but they won't let me spill anything right they keep changing it just as soon as I get send
I practice using Pickle Barrel I'm not worried about being struck I had to build a harness that exceeded head-and-neck strike standards when I originally started building my own armor and my harness is designed specifically for the Sentinel as that was my original final goal anyways and yes I see your signal has chips that has been made broad instead of turned back on itself that I'm sure you could ask them simply to put a full weld across the flared tip as the standards around here are 1/2 by 3/16 with the ability to spring back to True from 90 degree bend honestly I've got to say you're Sentinel would be considered subpar has a full contact sparring trainer I can still use it I'd merely have to switch the Tippin apply a roll pin. For my shop really just a minor inconvenience. On second thought continuing to examine displayed I'm liking it very much but I still disagree with the amount of spring they seem to have given it I would have to test myself to be sure and I'm pretty certain the wobbliness of the blade is why they ignored the distal taper and the weight is the reason for the Fuller's being as deep as they are do I agree with you the way they designed the fullers is visually just off
Honestly... I like most of it... But I would want a bit shorter of a grip
We offer a slightly shorter grip option that is one of the standard choices when checking out. Matt's grip is 10", and the other option is 9.25". Hope this helps!
How would it be if you sharpened it? I ask because it seems to be a very well made sword with a great heat tempering. I just dont know if the steel used would hold a good edge
1095 will assuming a good heat treatment. However the blade is made to be very flexible...too flexible for sharp swords. I would not recommend sharpen the blade.
Hi Lance! We wouldn't recommend sharpening a Sentinel. It is designed to be a blunt sword, which is reflected in the weight distribution, flexibility and edge thickness. Adding an edge would change these factors and make it a completely different sword, as well as voiding the warranty. However, we did make a custom sharp as a gold prize for CombatCon last year with 1095 and had no issues with it holding an edge.
@@kriegerarmory7631 Thank you for the feedback. Absolutely gorgeous swords
The fact that it tapers from hilt to tip means that it has more mass and inertia at the center of percussion (nearer the tip)??
"Reinforces" statement by saying "It has less mass down here" (where it's 2+" wide) and "more mass up here" (where it's less than 1").
While there's some possibility that the fullers could make that statement true, that isn't what he said at all.
See FedEx is universally despised
The hilt looks fantastic, but those fullers… I really dislike how sharply defined they are.
Not going to lie, I've been looking for a new trainer for a long time. I've been rocking my old Hanwei training longsword for years and it's, frankly not very good.
A fine and flexible tapered lever there, ha ha.
I see this sword and then I hear the song the Sentinel by Judas Priest in my head
Twist makes easier to identify without drawing sword to help identify
I love the crossguard twist! I think it’s very beautiful, and it’s become a signature look for Krieger Armory.
Fed Ex sucks here in the USA also.
And when you're focusing all that energy on a rules tip your striking with the edge of a sharpens pipe
Honestly that's something I can agree with you on.. I don't like the fullers... The fact that they don't taper... They need to taper
Interesting.
But the tip of the blade in a tight vice and ping it into a mushroom shape. Be careful, and I'm sure you know someone who can help 😉
what sword should the ukrainians use matt?
Wait.. you said 37 in blade earlier... Now u said 39..
After how much I have spent on firearms 495$ seems cheap.
It is a fact that americans like it wobbly. The british are more like blobby blobby blobby.
Would you be interested in selling this sword?
1095 doesn't seem like an ideal steel for a practice sword. If you have any control when you are partnering with a company to produce swords especially something designed for practice there are better steels 8670 or 5160 whilw not as cheap as 1095 are both inexpensive and far far tougher.
They don't want a practice sword better... And tougher... It's meant to be cheaper...
For a graph you just cannot beat leather Rings press and Harden
You've gotta be schilting me
Better than anything DSA makes and cheaper.
I wish I never saw this!
First 3 seconds 😍
Man... I don't think I could be a historical arms lover or seller or historians friend...
Just so far apart in likes...
First!
No. You weren't 🙃
I am of the school that you should train with what you fight with. That applies as much today as it would have 500 years ago. In this case if you are training longsword then you should be using a blunt training version that is as close to your fighting sword as possible. Feders are a pore substitute for a longsword and should have no place in anyone's training. Most blunt practice longswords are too flexible as is your example in this video. A blade that is too flexible doesn't perform correctly when parrying or in the bind. As long as you are wearing adequate armor you should be able to safely spar with a stiff bladed sword.
What would you call adequate armour? Even with a good fencing jacket, a heavy sword than doesn't flex much is going to bruise. Even with good gauntlets, it increases the chance of broken fingers. Also thrusts are going to be far more dangerous. If you're talking about using plate armour, that goes against what many people are training for when it comes to longsword. It completely changes the techniques you use. It's all about balancing safety with authenticity.
Feders are historical training tools though, so even fencing masters in the 1500s believed they held a valuable place in one’s training. Feders are not modern inventions for HEMA, there is a reason they exist. They compliment a holistic training regimen.
So if I own an Albion Crecy, I should buy another one just to blunt it and train with? I don't think that's reasonable. I'd rather use an Albion Epee de Guerre or Lichtenauer, since they're cheaper and less likely to injure.
@@TheZeroSbr when you say train, do you mean drills or free sparring? Because those are very different things
So are you advocating using sharpest blades in training? Since I have no intrest, nor am in danger of using a Sword "in real life" so anything that helps me learn basic sword skills is fine... I.E. a stick.