A trick I was taught was to take a bungee cord and use that to create tension on the twine for the first bale. Just gives it an easier start and usually ties.
Just got a "new to me" NH 311! I have a 4x5 Vermeer round baler but have been wanting a square baler. I found this one and remembered it's what you had. Actually made me more comfortable buying this model because I knew your videos were very detailed and it would be the same model baler. Can't wait to start making small squares!
Awesome to hear it man. The 311 is a great baler if it’s been maintained and taken care of. Congrats on the baler. I’ll be making a pre-season check for that baler soon.
10:07 great video. Show more and tell less and no block needed, either turned to the right or have that pick up side of the Baylor down the hill and it will slide right over. I’ve been bailing with a 315 for 40 years.
Greetings I subscribed to your UA-cam channel after seeing some interesting videos that helped me a lot to repair my Sgorbati mod 710 baler built in Italy under New Holland license. Almost all parts and components of the machine are the same I have a technical request for you, 1- You could send me a link or a copy of the manual for this model, or a similar one, to better understand the phases of synchronization of the needles with the plunger and adjustment of the knotters 2- Do you have a video where you can see the disassembly and rotation phases of the knotters to access the knives in order to sharpen them? Thank you very much and good luck with your work Felice Vitali
Hello sir. I do not have a manual or a link. But you maybe able to find one on EBay. To sharpen the twine knives, simple remove the bolt or pin that holds your knotter down, then raise the knotter stack. This will expose the wiper arm. The blade is usually held on by two small Allen head screws.
Helo, I need your help, do you have instructions for this square baler? I live in Poland and I can't get instructions on how to set up the ironing mechanism. the hammer bends my sewing needle.
I am new to your channel. Do you have any suggestions for a good baler for doing commercial jobs that arent ridiculous? I've started out with a new holland super 68 and it works flawlessly, but it's still a slow going outdated baler for as much as I do.
I’m impartial to the NH 300 series (I love my 311), or go into the 500 series if you want to get into a high capacity baler. Alternatively JD 336 and 338 are good balers too. 338 is high cap.
My son has a 326. If you can find a 326 not beat up, you can’t beat them. I just purchased in December a 575, but haven’t used it yet. Watch a Franklin County Forage video baling with a 326. The baler I’ve used for years is a 276. It makes good bales, but slow in heavy hay.
@kenneth Heern Your 276 is slow in heavy hay? Interesting…I’ve always understood it to be a high stroke baler and could really eat some hay, so I had thought having one would work better in first cut than my 311.
I haven’t changed the tension on it and have used the setting it was at from the producer I bought it from, but the wind guard should be set such that it allows the hay to feed without getting jammed. If you’re getting big hay jams that aren’t feeding then loosen it up. The purpose of the wind guard is to keep the hay in contact with the pickup tines so it can make its way inside the baler to the feeder tines, but it doesn’t need to be too tight in order to do this.
@Rex Miller Mine says: normally the ends of the wind guard fingers should be 2 to 3 inches above the pick up guard. The fingers should partially compress the material, but not restrict flow to the feeder area. Under normal conditions the tips of the window guards should move in in arc of 6-8 inches. If the stop is too low, then the hay may not be held against the pick up guards and not float freely and uniformly to the feeder.”
He says “After being cut. How many days in the sun to let the grass dry. Before tied up?” The grass dries in the sun for one day. I Ted this same day. The following day on day 3 I bale.
Worth noting for green folks is the first bale starting with an empty chamber, is always loose because you have no hay to create that resistance.
First bale often won’t tie well either because you need that tension to help pull the knot off the billhook.
A trick I was taught was to take a bungee cord and use that to create tension on the twine for the first bale. Just gives it an easier start and usually ties.
Just got a "new to me" NH 311!
I have a 4x5 Vermeer round baler but have been wanting a square baler.
I found this one and remembered it's what you had. Actually made me more comfortable buying this model because I knew your videos were very detailed and it would be the same model baler.
Can't wait to start making small squares!
Awesome to hear it man. The 311 is a great baler if it’s been maintained and taken care of. Congrats on the baler. I’ll be making a pre-season check for that baler soon.
I love your videos. When I retire in another year and go back to the farm I'll be looking for a haybine and an older new Holland baler!
Thanks so much for the feedback. I’m glad you enjoy them. Haying can be really stressful but also a lot of fun.
Brilliant , as someone thinking about making hay this gave me lots of information that I had not seen in other videos
Wow, great to hear!
Also let me know if there’s some specific content you’d like to see a video on.
10:07 great video. Show more and tell less and no block needed, either turned to the right or have that pick up side of the Baylor down the hill and it will slide right over. I’ve been bailing with a 315 for 40 years.
Greetings
I subscribed to your UA-cam channel after seeing some interesting videos that helped me a lot to repair my Sgorbati mod 710 baler built in Italy under New Holland license.
Almost all parts and components of the machine are the same
I have a technical request for you,
1- You could send me a link or a copy of the manual for this model, or a similar one, to better understand the phases of synchronization of the needles with the plunger and adjustment of the knotters
2- Do you have a video where you can see the disassembly and rotation phases of the knotters to access the knives in order to sharpen them?
Thank you very much and good luck with your work
Felice Vitali
Hello sir. I do not have a manual or a link. But you maybe able to find one on EBay.
To sharpen the twine knives, simple remove the bolt or pin that holds your knotter down, then raise the knotter stack. This will expose the wiper arm. The blade is usually held on by two small Allen head screws.
Helo, I need your help,
do you have instructions for this square baler? I live in Poland and I can't get instructions on how to set up the ironing mechanism. the hammer bends my sewing needle.
I think you’re referring to the timing, check out this video:
ua-cam.com/video/IOwmdezTSro/v-deo.htmlsi=f_QPlRmEyC393VZG
I am new to your channel. Do you have any suggestions for a good baler for doing commercial jobs that arent ridiculous? I've started out with a new holland super 68 and it works flawlessly, but it's still a slow going outdated baler for as much as I do.
I’m impartial to the NH 300 series (I love my 311), or go into the 500 series if you want to get into a high capacity baler. Alternatively JD 336 and 338 are good balers too. 338 is high cap.
@@TheScientistHayFarmer thanks for the reply, I will keep that in mind
My son has a 326. If you can find a 326 not beat up, you can’t beat them. I just purchased in December a 575, but haven’t used it yet. Watch a Franklin County Forage video baling with a 326. The baler I’ve used for years is a 276. It makes good bales, but slow in heavy hay.
@kenneth Heern Your 276 is slow in heavy hay? Interesting…I’ve always understood it to be a high stroke baler and could really eat some hay, so I had thought having one would work better in first cut than my 311.
How much tension do you have on your windguard ? is there a certain amount that it needs to be?
I haven’t changed the tension on it and have used the setting it was at from the producer I bought it from, but the wind guard should be set such that it allows the hay to feed without getting jammed. If you’re getting big hay jams that aren’t feeding then loosen it up. The purpose of the wind guard is to keep the hay in contact with the pickup tines so it can make its way inside the baler to the feeder tines, but it doesn’t need to be too tight in order to do this.
There’s a suggested clearance in your operators manual.
@@ruedaricardo I don't see it in mine. Please share if you have the information or post a picture.
I will look in my manual. I read something about it too.
@Rex Miller
Mine says: normally the ends of the wind guard fingers should be 2 to 3 inches above the pick up guard. The fingers should partially compress the material, but not restrict flow to the feeder area. Under normal conditions the tips of the window guards should move in in arc of 6-8 inches. If the stop is too low, then the hay may not be held against the pick up guards and not float freely and uniformly to the feeder.”
Indonesian subtitle please
Setelah dipotong. Dijemur berapa hari rumputnya biar kering. Sebelum di ikat
He says “After being cut. How many days in the sun to let the grass dry. Before tied up?”
The grass dries in the sun for one day. I Ted this same day. The following day on day 3 I bale.
Super dangerous machine if not taking care around those moving parts.