You have never been to a warm place in the winter. I think Eric should take you to Florida or on a Bahamas cruise for a week or two this winter. You are worth every penny.
The farmer with the patience of Job AND actually reads the instructions, THOROUGHLY, what's up with that, LOL?!?! God bless and have a safe wrap up to baling season 🙏 from beautiful downtown northern Maine!
I am just a fan of farming UA-cam videos. I grade you as top notch. By far you are the best in the female category and over all among my favorites in my top ten channels. Thanks for sharing.
I sincerely hope no one will joke about the hay you've made, you tried different things this year, some worked ,some didn't, with everything else going on, including marriage, I think you're to be commended, especially trying to do the repairs by yourself, can't wait for the next installment, when a lonely farmer offers assistance, the round baler stuff looks interesting also
Years ago, I was sent to New Holland, PA, to their factory, for a week long class on square balers. When I returned to our shop in northern IL, I spent the next three years as the only factory trained NH baler mechanic in a fifty mile radius. I would spend all summer on service calls. I could diagnose knotter issues over the phone. The owners manual is a godsend. We actually built a special tool to NH specs to bend/adjust the knotter arms the knives attach to.
Very true. Safety is always at the top of my list. Even Welker's "Leg Arms" who's been working on big equipment his entire adult life had a terrible accident last week resulting in a broken arm (that was lucky).
@@This1LifeWeLive Very sorry to hear that. We never know if/when it's going to happen, all we can do is take all reasonable precautions. Best of luck with everything :)
Gigantic task you are taking on. It is unrealistic to thing you could think you can bale without a missed bale. You will have done a great job if you only have one or two. My hat is off to you. I know many farmers who cannot time. I have tried myself and have had mixed success.
I read online that there are two ways to time (this from a baler mechanic). One way is quick and fast and gets a small farmer mostly through the summer, th other way is much more involved and gets a big farmer through the season. I actually had everything SPECED to perfection before I hit the field this year . . . BUT . . . with so many continual distractions, I forgot something important, and it un timed EVERYTHING . . . but you'll see in upcoming videos ;D
We were baling square bales yesterday...1969 New Holland square baler mistied probably a dozen times...so frustrating. Our issue wasn't the same as yours but I can totally relate. Good luck and God bless.
Diesel makes a good cleaner but also that purple power cleaner does a heck of a job, When I rebuilt the 460 in my F250 I found overnight was as long as I could keep parts soaking. It would start stripping the finish off parts. An afternoon and that chain will be clean and ready for lube. I just finally bought a set of ratchet head wrenches last year, before then I just used a box or open end wrench and moved it 30,000 times for those tight spots. I would say you deserve the coveted PAB ( pat on the back ) for such excellent work, remember you're a farmer you do what you have too 😁, Although I'm sure Erik will come up with something more to your liking. Take care!
As a crew chief in the Air Force, all planes were females. Calling in jobs, you included the tail number, but used different terminology. 0018 became balls 18. When women joined the crew chief field, some things changed. Their planes were males. Their tail numbers for 0011, became tits 11. Nobody seemed to care.
Hey WT Farm Girl!👋 With all this hard work and fixing things Eric should either give u a full day off with full spa treatment or a Elk hunt in Colorado or Montana! 😆❤👍
Hi good video about your baler. I have an old 445b internal. Be careful with timing. Sheared a number of bolt because we did not time it correctly. Check your hay plates and hay dogs. If your bales are uneven. Pulled around 1500 bales on 5 acres.
Suzanne, At 16:17 and 17:13 when you were turning the PTO, the worm gear did not move like the one on the left. The bolt that you tightened earlier was turning inside the worm gear. It is either you are not tightening it enough, or there is something like dust inside that is causing it to not be able to tighten. Pretty sure this will fix your woes! Respectfully, Kevin
LOL you'll see more on this in the next video! But the manual stated "do not overtighten" so I was making sure I didn't . . . but like I said, you'll see!
Hey, don't worry about the small operation. We started with just 80 acres & ancient equipment. We later started dairy farming. Baling became multiple days of 1300 bales + per day. We have since scaled back. We still bale hay but more like the early days. We however still use our dairy farm days baler. We have never had the insulators gouge out like that. My only guess is the plastic twine, but I must admit that doesn't make sense. We have always used sisal twine except for a short disastrous experiment with plastic
Farm girl with all the money that you are saving on equipment repairs it should justify maybe a trip to the spa , hair salon, nail salon or something you like but don't do to save money because that's what most mother's do every day take care of everyone else and they put there self at the bottom of the list and you work on equipment that would make you a priceless treasure and I am sure that your man would agree with that thanks for sharing 👍💪😁
Soak the chains in automatic transmission fluid, rinse them with diesel fuel and lube them with a dry moly lube so the dust doesn't stick to them. The moly lube goes on wet so it penetrates then the carrier evaporates leaving the moly in the chain. The ceramic twine guides don't need to be very tight and you could put rubber or tape on the clamp.
Moly lube is not going penetrate into the rollers and pins. It does not even last very long on the surfaces before it is worn away. Elevators and escalators run 24/7 and are expected to last with proper maintenance 30 years minimum with out a day off. Most are in service over 50 years. When you have equipment costing many hundreds of thousands of dollars. Dont cheap out on using cheaper less effective alternatives. Pay me now or pay me later.
@@allenburns3177 Moly lubes are designed for that exact purpose. They have a carrier that penetrates to carry the lubricant deep into crevices to disperse the molybdenum disulfide. Molybdenum disulfide is used in extreme pressure high quality lubricants because it provides the best lubrication.
@@tiredoldmechanic1791 my 40 years working on equipment says different. If you use molly you need to be always servicing that equipment. Using chain lube is a proven winner. It is also labor efficient. Chains that run 50 years before needing replacement. Also less adjustment is required. In the end it is about cost. With millions of units running thru out the world by all of the major manufacturing in the elevator industry and none use molly. If it was better, cheaper they would use it. They squeeze every penny possible.
I use to dump used oil on the twisters and wire on that 285 made a lot of difference, I was fairly young when we had the 69 with knotters but I think I remember dad oiling the knotters and we never rebuilt them, we did rebuild the twisters on the285, had a mechanic come down and everything had to be perfect for them to work, if those knotters have twine guides they have to be perfect to work, the wire guides had to be perfect or it would not twist the wire
That was part of the problem when we bought it. The twine guides coming out of the bale twine box were too tights, causing the twine to pull back on the knotter assembly and then of course break. It also wore clean through all of the ceramic round guides, so I ahve to replace those and start at the beginning with un needed tension, dialing it back.
I think that you may have a broken shaft, right side. The gear that is not turning side. The nut that needed to be torqued to 25lb, that shaft. It was turning at the top but not at the bottom where the worm gear is.
The chains are supposed to look like that...I'd just get a long air nozzle and blow them off and re oil. Leave them alone unless they are worn out, taking them off to be cleaned won't help. BIG Tip. We just lost both needles in out baler. The safety latch spring broke and did not work. Something happened and the plunger broke off both needles... Replace the safety latch spring but it is expensive $27.00.... It's on the lower frame front, drivers side. It's the device that stops the plunger and breaks the shear bolt if you are lucky. Test it often to make sure it's free. Our regular baler operator was out and I ran 1,440 bales thru in 5 hours a personal best for me. No bad bales.
Just replace the chains if there is any slop in them at all which there probably is. Chain is cheap the Sprockets are expensive and hard to change. If you change the chains it will keep your Sprockets from wearing. A sloppy chain wears out your sprockets quick. A good tight new chain lands in the grooves instead of on the edge of the tooth. Those chains have probably never been changed. You can get big rolls of chain and a chain breaker on Ebay cheaper. PJ1 Motorcycle chain lube is cheap tacky and doesn't fling off.
Best thing I have found for cleaning chains is a bucket with a couple of gallons of diesel fuel or kerosene with a quart or two of Automatic transmission fluid. I normally wipe the chains off with a rag or three and then give them a couple day bath in diesel fuel/fuel-oil/kerosene and automatic transmission fluid mix, followed up by another wipe down and use a wire brush dipped in the cleaning solution on any gunk that caked on heavy and lube them up after I reinstall them. Just be sure the grease/lube you are using on your chains and for that matter on your equipment is waterproof, because believe it or not many greases are not waterproof
Our baler is newer but it came with the rebaling operation we bought.... I would guess it has run about 48,000 bales to date.....Last week we baled 500 bales(53 foot trailer load) in 2 hrs and 45 minutes....no miss ties....
What type of baler? I have read that there are "quick fixes" and "full fixes" for baler timing and most people don't do either, they send it in. Quick fix is cheaper, but usually gives issues later. I'm guessing your baler was well maintained :)
@@This1LifeWeLive New Holland 5070 As I said it came in the "package" with the unroller tables and The Bale Bandit......I have my doubts as to it being greased on a regular basis because the knotter zerks gave me a fit the first time...We discovered that the harder you push feeding it the less trouble we have with the knotters and the Bandit..... The Bandit is not as gentle with the bales as a Barron
Working on escalators almost every thing is driven with roller chains. First drop your new chains in a bucket of mystic chain oil, it has an additive that makes the oil stick to the chain. Buying chain in bulk is a lot cheaper. A set of chain tools and parts like offset links and master links. Chain breakers and chain pullers for connecting the chains together. When you run out of adjustment on the idlers. Replace the chain and sprockets if worn. Use the offset links to create maximum adjustment. Then lubricate those chains so they last. If they get dirty and dry. Remove and drop in cleaner then overnight in the mystic bucket to soak. Not uncommon to get 20 plus years on some chains on an escalator.
Suzanne, I have several things to point out . The white insulator should have the flat spots and when tightened you should be able to move them a little . The plates in the twine disk that you mentioned 1/8 inch clearance are actually cleaner plates for the twine disk and the 1/8 “ measurement should be with you pushing the plates up to the needle. The twine disk leaf springs you put the washer under are tension springs and have nothing to do with how far the twine holder push’s in to the disk. The needles should drag lightly on the knotter frame when coming through and last I noticed when you were turning the baler over with twine the right side gear on the tapered shaft was not turning. The shaft was spinning inside like the nut wasn’t tight. Not trying to sound like a know it all but have been doing balers for a long time . Just want to help 🙂
Not every shot was it "tight" but in the next video I learn what "tight actually means for this part. The manual stated in BIG letters 'DO NO OVERTIGHTEN NUT' . . . and I find out (accidentaly) why this is, lol, so it's a BIG trial and error session ;D
You should be able to easily rotate the flywheel by hand. The only time it should fight you, is if the plunger is compressing a bale. It it turns that hard, check the bearings on the plunger. Some used rollers, but older ones used adjustable wooden slides. They can get wet, expand and bind, or just be way too tight on adjustment.
Not sure. But it's possible it takes MANY revolutions on the flywheel before any action happens on the backend. I will try it again out of curiosity . . .
Yer doing a good job of working on that, and yes its better to fix it yourself then haveing someone else to, especially if you really ain't good friends that don't work with each other out;) and yes I understand what you mean we are landlock too and I hate it.. can't be able to extand our pastures! So I understand what you mean, why you want to make as much hay as possible. But just remember, more each crop of hay you take, you need to replace it by putting food back for the ground. Which that's the problem nowadays which I know why, but it's not right! plants are just like us living things humans, animals, amphibians, you name it, just don't live on water, it takes food as well. So if you maintain your fields right, you should be able to produce somewhat enough crops depending on the year. Other than that good video👍☺.
Very well said! I have put nitrogen down, but that's not the same. I'm starting a compost pile this year and will add that to the fields late winter. Fall is best time I think, but I don't have any right now, lol. Going to collect leaves, manure and woodash to put down :D
@@This1LifeWeLive that's cool it's always better to compost stuff, but that's okay if you don't have much this year, but like next spring after feeding all winter compost everything then;) other than that thanks for replying back.
I am afriad I'm going to have to re-sort all my videos! So the issue had started way back when the tension was too tight on the string (thanks to those ceramic holders) and it caused the knotters to snap the bolts out of their holders and fly upward. Since they didn't do it at the same time, they fell out of time from each other. The nut that holds the worm gear must be loosened and you tap the star gear with a hammer and punch to rotate it and the cam disc. If both seem out, set one FIRST (don't forget to correctly torque the worm gear nut to proper specs as over tighteneing strips it - that was problem 2). Once one is set (grab a good manual it should read the specs for setting the disc cams), you can "time" the second knotter to the first. Accordng to One Lonely Farmer it might take a few rounds of re-timging the one side. I think the follow up video referenced OLF or one lonely farmer in the title . . .
Try using a Motorcyle chain cleaner and Lube on the chains. May also be good idea if you put them back in the same location if you have to remove them for cleaning.
@@This1LifeWeLive There is also a special brush made to clean motorcycle chains. www.amazon.com/NoPinch-Durable-Motorcycle-Maintenance-Cleaning/dp/B07D5MTVP7
You figured out and fixed the haybine,, you will figure out and fix the baler, take roller chain off clean or soak in a gegreaser over night then let drip dry,, get motorcycle chain lube soak it well, then let drip dry, install, hand rotate chain on sprocket while spraying more lube let dry,, ta DA,, on the chain : D
I've permanently boycotted shopping at Menards after their employees repeatedly heckle elderly folks about wearing a badge to prove their medical condition that prevents them from wearing a mask . . . in several stores across the midwest. If they want to tell them they aren't allowed in, fine, but to heckle shoppers and make them register their condition is an absolute NO. They used to be my favorite store . . .
Some places say to keep it tight, other say it needs a small bit of play. I CAN tell ya that for this machine, extra tight leads to machine failure (I made THAT mistake a while back). So both should ahve some play :)
Lots of good advise on cleaning the chain, but don't clean those chains! Those chains are stretched and need to be replaced. Judging by the red paint on the chains I believe those are original chains, which means their time is up. The chains should go on fairly tight, with the adjusters in the first quarter of adjustment. When the chains reach the end of adjustment, as yours have, then it's time for new chains. As the chains stretch they reach a point where they no longer ride correctly on the sprockets and will wear out the sprockets, which cost a lot more than a little bit of chain.
Hay Farm Girl 👧 I would just leave the chains alone. The dirt protects the chain from the weather and doesn’t interfere with the chain being a chain. You’ve become quite the mechanic 👩🔧 You could advertise and fix everyone’s baler for miles around 👍
Eventhough I knew what a river was and what a lake was, anytime I spoke out loud I got their names mixed up until 5th grade. I call diesel "gas", so . . . my mouth doesn't always translate what my brain is thinking...
The needle clearance to twine disc holder is based on the fact that the knotter frame is NOT jumping up and down during the tying cycle, resulting in the bill hook NOT getting a hold of the twine the needle just brought up, resulting the twine is NOT where it needs to be at the start of the cycle.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This all happens in a "nano second" all settings and adjustments MUST be PERFECT otherwise no knot plus the frame can't be moving during this critical time.
On a John Deere baler you can rotate fly wheel even when hooked up to tractor.Not sure if you New Holland T5 115 can Rotate the PTO shaft freely with the engine off by hand?I don't know if that tractor has like a clutch brake when PTO is disengaged.our 1520 JD was a gear engagement to use PTO,push clutch pedal further down for PTO disengage.That tractor didn't gave on the go lever engagement had to stop to put PTO in gear.our JD 3020 had its own live PTO engage any time on the fly had its own separate clutch.yours is done electronicly like a a/c clutch on a compressor
Use the flywheel, check all the timing markers and make sure it is in time, must of pushed the 285 plenty hard as it had 3 sizes of sheer pins and u used them all, especially flywheel plns
My husband likes to push his luck with farm equipment ;) (he has since been banned from running the baler). I think this was my last session timing the baler, since then I have had zero missed knots and everything has been running to perfection. It IS still a hair bit off between the knotters, but so far hasn't caused any issues, even after 2,000 bales :)
Put your change in a bucket of diesel by going bucket put some diesel in it but change down in there let himself for a couple days you'll be good as new
you probably already know this by now but the right worm gear shaft was turning but not the worm gear ...need to actually tightn the nut you loosened to adust the twine discs to re-seat the taper fit.....also the "guy" with the tail that is against the twine disc that you put a washer on is not a twine disc clearance adjuster it sets how tight the twine discs hold the string it is basicly a flat spring the tigher you tighten it down the tighter it holds the string you adjust it by putting a string in with a pull gage and tighen it till you have to pull X # of pounds to pull the string thru when its closed tightening it to a washer behind it is defeating its purpose .........anyway i assume your baler tech got you going .....good luck hope you get that great looking hay up ok...
the cam discs will not re-time unless the nut is loose and the worm gear loose. The tail is for the tensioner, it move left or right adding or lessoning tension on the twine cam discs. The manual said a washer can be added if needed. The part there is off the old baler and mst likely quite worn, but in better shape than the parts we pulled off this baler. But you'll find out in the next video if it got going or not ;)
@@This1LifeWeLive ...online tech help is predictable...tons of new parts....4 digits expense later ...cheaper to buy a new baler .... ugggg ...best of luck.....:)....i guess if it all worked as it should your content would be boring LOL.....:)
Ok I may be late to the party here. But watching your video during the manual turning of the PTO, the worm gear on the right side is not turning when the worm gear on the left is turning. I am no professional expert, but that seems wrong to me.
You're missing a flat plate on your tension springs on the string tension and when they get War they will not hold the string need about 8 lb pull on the string so you need to buy a flat plate to go with that curved plate but I would put two new ones on then you won't have no problems
You have never been to a warm place in the winter. I think Eric should take you to Florida or on a Bahamas cruise for a week or two this winter. You are worth every penny.
We had been thinking of it, but with all the covid lock downs we don't want our first vacation to be a bad one, lol
The farmer with the patience of Job AND actually reads the instructions, THOROUGHLY, what's up with that, LOL?!?! God bless and have a safe wrap up to baling season 🙏 from beautiful downtown northern Maine!
I am just a fan of farming UA-cam videos. I grade you as top notch. By far you are the best in the female category and over all among my favorites in my top ten channels. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you Chris, glad you enjoy the videos!
I sincerely hope no one will joke about the hay you've made, you tried different things this year, some worked ,some didn't, with everything else going on, including marriage, I think you're to be commended, especially trying to do the repairs by yourself, can't wait for the next installment, when a lonely farmer offers assistance, the round baler stuff looks interesting also
It was definitely a way I didn't want to end the season, lol!
Years ago, I was sent to New Holland, PA, to their factory, for a week long class on square balers. When I returned to our shop in northern IL, I spent the next three years as the only factory trained NH baler mechanic in a fifty mile radius. I would spend all summer on service calls. I could diagnose knotter issues over the phone.
The owners manual is a godsend.
We actually built a special tool to NH specs to bend/adjust the knotter arms the knives attach to.
I bet you became very adept a fixing them 😄
You are becoming a first-rate service tech. Really admire your pluck and perseverance. Just never get so cocky that you forget about safety.
Very true. Safety is always at the top of my list. Even Welker's "Leg Arms" who's been working on big equipment his entire adult life had a terrible accident last week resulting in a broken arm (that was lucky).
@@This1LifeWeLive Very sorry to hear that. We never know if/when it's going to happen, all we can do is take all reasonable precautions. Best of luck with everything :)
Suzanne you will get it figured out.
Your very very present . And always do your homework.. 😊😊👍👍👍💝💝🍨🍧🍦🍵🍵
Loved the drama ending like a tv show:). I had the worst luck with old square bailers.
There are many places to fail on a square baler ;)
Gigantic task you are taking on. It is unrealistic to thing you could think you can bale without a missed bale. You will have done a great job if you only have one or two. My hat is off to you. I know many farmers who cannot time. I have tried myself and have had mixed success.
I read online that there are two ways to time (this from a baler mechanic). One way is quick and fast and gets a small farmer mostly through the summer, th other way is much more involved and gets a big farmer through the season. I actually had everything SPECED to perfection before I hit the field this year . . . BUT . . . with so many continual distractions, I forgot something important, and it un timed EVERYTHING . . . but you'll see in upcoming videos ;D
Hope you have good luck
We were baling square bales yesterday...1969 New Holland square baler mistied probably a dozen times...so frustrating. Our issue wasn't the same as yours but I can totally relate. Good luck and God bless.
What are you talkin about you very still full of talent that's why I love watching you you're perfect
Thanks for watching!
Diesel makes a good cleaner but also that purple power cleaner does a heck of a job, When I rebuilt the 460 in my F250 I found overnight was as long as I could keep parts soaking. It would start stripping the finish off parts. An afternoon and that chain will be clean and ready for lube.
I just finally bought a set of ratchet head wrenches last year, before then I just used a box or open end wrench and moved it 30,000 times for those tight spots.
I would say you deserve the coveted PAB ( pat on the back ) for such excellent work, remember you're a farmer you do what you have too 😁,
Although I'm sure Erik will come up with something more to your liking.
Take care!
You will get this done! You never give up. You might need help on this one , but you will be doing the work. Take Care
IT got ugly for sure, lol!
I have bought those type of wrench's from Harbor Freight there over 10 years old, never had a problem with them !!!
Great video. Tool of the day is a ideal
I would never, ever even think of making fun of you. Anyone who does is an insensitive boob !! I admire you and your farming 💛💛
Around here if someone doesn't kid you around a bit you wonder if they're sick, or don't like you.
Keep up your great videos and all I see and love the most is your always learning and staying positive ❤️
I love how in describing things you call things a him, lol. You always have awesome videos, thank you and BTW, I learn much from you.
As a crew chief in the Air Force, all planes were females. Calling in jobs, you included the tail number, but used different terminology. 0018 became balls 18. When women joined the crew chief field, some things changed. Their planes were males. Their tail numbers for 0011, became tits 11. Nobody seemed to care.
Hey WT Farm Girl!👋 With all this hard work and fixing things Eric should either give u a full day off with full spa treatment or a Elk hunt in Colorado or Montana! 😆❤👍
heck yeah! I'll take BOTH! Probably just settle for a few local whitetails fat off orchard grass and my son walking across my back ;D
My 1st welcome to hay. I mowed and raked it. 1st season 5,000 bales. Yes had to hand load it on pickup truck.
Pick-up truck loads would take a LONG time!
Hi good video about your baler. I have an old 445b internal. Be careful with timing. Sheared a number of bolt because we did not time it correctly. Check your hay plates and hay dogs. If your bales are uneven. Pulled around 1500 bales on 5 acres.
Suzanne, At 16:17 and 17:13 when you were turning the PTO, the worm gear did not move like the one on the left. The bolt that you tightened earlier was turning inside the worm gear. It is either you are not tightening it enough, or there is something like dust inside that is causing it to not be able to tighten.
Pretty sure this will fix your woes!
Respectfully, Kevin
LOL you'll see more on this in the next video! But the manual stated "do not overtighten" so I was making sure I didn't . . . but like I said, you'll see!
WT Farm Girl Videos OK, keep me in suspense!!! 😊👍
Suzanne, Was I even close? Got to know!!
Hey, don't worry about the small operation. We started with just 80 acres & ancient equipment. We later started dairy farming. Baling became multiple days of 1300 bales + per day. We have since scaled back. We still bale hay but more like the early days. We however still use our dairy farm days baler. We have never had the insulators gouge out like that. My only guess is the plastic twine, but I must admit that doesn't make sense. We have always used sisal twine except for a short disastrous experiment with plastic
I'm guessing it was due to the twine tensioner plate being too tight. Over time it just them to wear through . . .
Farm girl with all the money that you are saving on equipment repairs it should justify maybe a trip to the spa , hair salon, nail salon or something you like but don't do to save money because that's what most mother's do every day take care of everyone else and they put there self at the bottom of the list and you work on equipment that would make you a priceless treasure and I am sure that your man would agree with that thanks for sharing 👍💪😁
A spa day on the beach, lol!
I am glad the baler didn't start while you were turning it over with that shaft. lol.
It's not an engine, lol!
Soak the chains in automatic transmission fluid, rinse them with diesel fuel and lube them with a dry moly lube so the dust doesn't stick to them. The moly lube goes on wet so it penetrates then the carrier evaporates leaving the moly in the chain. The ceramic twine guides don't need to be very tight and you could put rubber or tape on the clamp.
I never understand why all the types of lube. So Molly lube is a housewife lube and she hates dust, lol . . . excellent!
Moly lube is not going penetrate into the rollers and pins. It does not even last very long on the surfaces before it is worn away. Elevators and escalators run 24/7 and are expected to last with proper maintenance 30 years minimum with out a day off. Most are in service over 50 years. When you have equipment costing many hundreds of thousands of dollars. Dont cheap out on using cheaper less effective alternatives. Pay me now or pay me later.
@@allenburns3177 Moly lubes are designed for that exact purpose. They have a carrier that penetrates to carry the lubricant deep into crevices to disperse the molybdenum disulfide. Molybdenum disulfide is used in extreme pressure high quality lubricants because it provides the best lubrication.
@@tiredoldmechanic1791 my 40 years working on equipment says different. If you use molly you need to be always servicing that equipment. Using chain lube is a proven winner. It is also labor efficient. Chains that run 50 years before needing replacement. Also less adjustment is required. In the end it is about cost. With millions of units running thru out the world by all of the major manufacturing in the elevator industry and none use molly. If it was better, cheaper they would use it. They squeeze every penny possible.
I use to dump used oil on the twisters and wire on that 285 made a lot of difference, I was fairly young when we had the 69 with knotters but I think I remember dad oiling the knotters and we never rebuilt them, we did rebuild the twisters on the285, had a mechanic come down and everything had to be perfect for them to work, if those knotters have twine guides they have to be perfect to work, the wire guides had to be perfect or it would not twist the wire
That was part of the problem when we bought it. The twine guides coming out of the bale twine box were too tights, causing the twine to pull back on the knotter assembly and then of course break. It also wore clean through all of the ceramic round guides, so I ahve to replace those and start at the beginning with un needed tension, dialing it back.
I think that you may have a broken shaft, right side. The gear that is not turning side. The nut that needed to be torqued to 25lb, that shaft. It was turning at the top but not at the bottom where the worm gear is.
The chains are supposed to look like that...I'd just get a long air nozzle and blow them off and re oil. Leave them alone unless they are worn out, taking them off to be cleaned won't help. BIG Tip. We just lost both needles in out baler. The safety latch spring broke and did not work. Something happened and the plunger broke off both needles... Replace the safety latch spring but it is expensive $27.00.... It's on the lower frame front, drivers side. It's the device that stops the plunger and breaks the shear bolt if you are lucky. Test it often to make sure it's free. Our regular baler operator was out and I ran 1,440 bales thru in 5 hours a personal best for me. No bad bales.
I will double check it, thankyou!
Just replace the chains if there is any slop in them at all which there probably is. Chain is cheap the Sprockets are expensive and hard to change. If you change the chains it will keep your Sprockets from wearing. A sloppy chain wears out your sprockets quick. A good tight new chain lands in the grooves instead of on the edge of the tooth. Those chains have probably never been changed. You can get big rolls of chain and a chain breaker on Ebay cheaper. PJ1 Motorcycle chain lube is cheap tacky and doesn't fling off.
I use Bel-Ray Motorcycel chain lube on everything and it has Moly in it ..
Best thing I have found for cleaning chains is a bucket with a couple of gallons of diesel fuel or kerosene with a quart or two of Automatic transmission fluid. I normally wipe the chains off with a rag or three and then give them a couple day bath in diesel fuel/fuel-oil/kerosene and automatic transmission fluid mix, followed up by another wipe down and use a wire brush dipped in the cleaning solution on any gunk that caked on heavy and lube them up after I reinstall them. Just be sure the grease/lube you are using on your chains and for that matter on your equipment is waterproof, because believe it or not many greases are not waterproof
Very good
Our baler is newer but it came with the rebaling operation we bought.... I would guess it has run about 48,000 bales to date.....Last week we baled 500 bales(53 foot trailer load) in 2 hrs and 45 minutes....no miss ties....
What type of baler? I have read that there are "quick fixes" and "full fixes" for baler timing and most people don't do either, they send it in. Quick fix is cheaper, but usually gives issues later. I'm guessing your baler was well maintained :)
@@This1LifeWeLive New Holland 5070 As I said it came in the "package" with the unroller tables and The Bale Bandit......I have my doubts as to it being greased on a regular basis because the knotter zerks gave me a fit the first time...We discovered that the harder you push feeding it the less trouble we have with the knotters and the Bandit..... The Bandit is not as gentle with the bales as a Barron
Working on escalators almost every thing is driven with roller chains. First drop your new chains in a bucket of mystic chain oil, it has an additive that makes the oil stick to the chain. Buying chain in bulk is a lot cheaper. A set of chain tools and parts like offset links and master links. Chain breakers and chain pullers for connecting the chains together. When you run out of adjustment on the idlers. Replace the chain and sprockets if worn. Use the offset links to create maximum adjustment. Then lubricate those chains so they last. If they get dirty and dry. Remove and drop in cleaner then overnight in the mystic bucket to soak. Not uncommon to get 20 plus years on some chains on an escalator.
Thank you! Good to know! I had recently read that chains do "stretch" and stretch more when dry (contributing to excessive ear)
I wonder if you have a broken shear bolt on your flywheel somewhere?? Ive never seen the flywheel not run the plunger by hand
Well you have the PB blaster nice choice. !
Suzanne, I have several things to point out . The white insulator should have the flat spots and when tightened you should be able to move them a little . The plates in the twine disk that you mentioned 1/8 inch clearance are actually cleaner plates for the twine disk and the 1/8 “ measurement should be with you pushing the plates up to the needle. The twine disk leaf springs you put the washer under are tension springs and have nothing to do with how far the twine holder push’s in to the disk. The needles should drag lightly on the knotter frame when coming through and last I noticed when you were turning the baler over with twine the right side gear on the tapered shaft was not turning. The shaft was spinning inside like the nut wasn’t tight. Not trying to sound like a know it all but have been doing balers for a long time . Just want to help 🙂
@11:39 Suzanne turned the right side nut with her fingers, so it was not tight.
Not every shot was it "tight" but in the next video I learn what "tight actually means for this part. The manual stated in BIG letters 'DO NO OVERTIGHTEN NUT' . . . and I find out (accidentaly) why this is, lol, so it's a BIG trial and error session ;D
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You should be able to easily rotate the flywheel by hand. The only time it should fight you, is if the plunger is compressing a bale. It it turns that hard, check the bearings on the plunger. Some used rollers, but older ones used adjustable wooden slides. They can get wet, expand and bind, or just be way too tight on adjustment.
Thats interesting. I use to turn the flywheel on my 310 baler (great baler) to watch my knotters. Somthing must have changed??
Not sure. But it's possible it takes MANY revolutions on the flywheel before any action happens on the backend. I will try it again out of curiosity . . .
Hello neighbor sorry I've got nothing...! But good video see you next time 👍✌🤞😉
I use a mixture of chainsaw bar oil and diesel fuel that I spray on my chain. It keeps them oiled and clean.
Do you store the baler outside or undercover. The knotter needs to be protected from rain.
We do in the wintertime. In the summer it's a battle for space in the barn.
Merci pour cette video qui nous indique l'entretient d'une botteleuse est important surtout les supports de ficelle Albert
Yer doing a good job of working on that, and yes its better to fix it yourself then haveing someone else to, especially if you really ain't good friends that don't work with each other out;) and yes I understand what you mean we are landlock too and I hate it.. can't be able to extand our pastures! So I understand what you mean, why you want to make as much hay as possible. But just remember, more each crop of hay you take, you need to replace it by putting food back for the ground. Which that's the problem nowadays which I know why, but it's not right! plants are just like us living things humans, animals, amphibians, you name it, just don't live on water, it takes food as well. So if you maintain your fields right, you should be able to produce somewhat enough crops depending on the year. Other than that good video👍☺.
Very well said! I have put nitrogen down, but that's not the same. I'm starting a compost pile this year and will add that to the fields late winter. Fall is best time I think, but I don't have any right now, lol. Going to collect leaves, manure and woodash to put down :D
@@This1LifeWeLive that's cool it's always better to compost stuff, but that's okay if you don't have much this year, but like next spring after feeding all winter compost everything then;) other than that thanks for replying back.
The knotter takes time to align, but you can FIGURE IT OUT ,we have faith you will succeed, : D
I've said it before and I'll say it again- knotters are the devil 🤣
A day spa or a trail ride have a day love from TEXAS
Were is Part 2 of this video? How did you fix This?
I am afriad I'm going to have to re-sort all my videos! So the issue had started way back when the tension was too tight on the string (thanks to those ceramic holders) and it caused the knotters to snap the bolts out of their holders and fly upward. Since they didn't do it at the same time, they fell out of time from each other. The nut that holds the worm gear must be loosened and you tap the star gear with a hammer and punch to rotate it and the cam disc. If both seem out, set one FIRST (don't forget to correctly torque the worm gear nut to proper specs as over tighteneing strips it - that was problem 2). Once one is set (grab a good manual it should read the specs for setting the disc cams), you can "time" the second knotter to the first. Accordng to One Lonely Farmer it might take a few rounds of re-timging the one side.
I think the follow up video referenced OLF or one lonely farmer in the title . . .
Try using a Motorcyle chain cleaner and Lube on the chains. May also be good idea if you put them back in the same location if you have to remove them for cleaning.
I didn't know there was a motorcycle cleaner, althogh I have been using the lube on other equipment
@@This1LifeWeLive There is also a special brush made to clean motorcycle chains. www.amazon.com/NoPinch-Durable-Motorcycle-Maintenance-Cleaning/dp/B07D5MTVP7
I would spray engine clean on the chain’s then power wash them. Then you wouldn’t have to take them off.
I soak chains and other parts in a tub of solvent or degreaser overnight. Comes right off with a stiff brush the next day. Easy peasy.
You are game to fix ANYTHING!!!!!
Neat video 👍
I think if this fixes it you should have Eric record a full length episode of him working on something that you can post for us to see. :)
Erik only works on the vehicles. He's doing his truck right now . . . swapping wheels/tires. And he changes the fluids in the tractor sometimes :)
Perseverance . Look in the dictionary under Suzanne.
WTFirst generation farmers still have to learn a lot. X
I'd love to have the old 273
Leave the chains on , spray with brake cleaner, it will take a while , good luck !
You figured out and fixed the haybine,, you will figure out and fix the baler, take roller chain off clean or soak in a gegreaser over night then let drip dry,, get motorcycle chain lube soak it well, then let drip dry, install, hand rotate chain on sprocket while spraying more lube let dry,, ta DA,, on the chain : D
Your reward will bea small utility tractor to do odds and ends around the farm like pull the JD rake for example.
Great vids :) 💗
You can buy the wrenches from Menards , and if you will watch ,you can find them on sale .The Christmas sale for sure .
I've permanently boycotted shopping at Menards after their employees repeatedly heckle elderly folks about wearing a badge to prove their medical condition that prevents them from wearing a mask . . . in several stores across the midwest. If they want to tell them they aren't allowed in, fine, but to heckle shoppers and make them register their condition is an absolute NO. They used to be my favorite store . . .
Watching the video, I noticed that the right side assembly is loose and moving around when the needles are up.
Some places say to keep it tight, other say it needs a small bit of play. I CAN tell ya that for this machine, extra tight leads to machine failure (I made THAT mistake a while back). So both should ahve some play :)
Check the worm gear because the shaft was turning your worm gear may have a split in it because they will split
Lots of good advise on cleaning the chain, but don't clean those chains! Those chains are stretched and need to be replaced. Judging by the red paint on the chains I believe those are original chains, which means their time is up. The chains should go on fairly tight, with the adjusters in the first quarter of adjustment. When the chains reach the end of adjustment, as yours have, then it's time for new chains. As the chains stretch they reach a point where they no longer ride correctly on the sprockets and will wear out the sprockets, which cost a lot more than a little bit of chain.
Good to know, thankyou!
Hay Farm Girl 👧 I would just leave the chains alone. The dirt protects the chain from the weather and doesn’t interfere with the chain being a chain. You’ve become quite the mechanic 👩🔧 You could advertise and fix everyone’s baler for miles around 👍
The "baler twine" (as named in the manual) is not called "string". That is what is used to fly a kite. LPL
Eventhough I knew what a river was and what a lake was, anytime I spoke out loud I got their names mixed up until 5th grade. I call diesel "gas", so . . . my mouth doesn't always translate what my brain is thinking...
The needle clearance to twine disc holder is based on the fact that the knotter frame is NOT jumping up and down during the tying cycle, resulting in the bill hook NOT getting a hold of the twine the needle just brought up, resulting the twine is NOT where it needs to be at the start of the cycle.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This all happens in a "nano second" all settings and adjustments MUST be PERFECT otherwise no knot plus the frame can't be moving during this critical time.
On a John Deere baler you can rotate fly wheel even when hooked up to tractor.Not sure if you New Holland T5 115 can Rotate the PTO shaft freely with the engine off by hand?I don't know if that tractor has like a clutch brake when PTO is disengaged.our 1520 JD was a gear engagement to use PTO,push clutch pedal further down for PTO disengage.That tractor didn't gave on the go lever engagement had to stop to put PTO in gear.our JD 3020 had its own live PTO engage any time on the fly had its own separate clutch.yours is done electronicly like a a/c clutch on a compressor
It does have a clutch brake, so after the pto is disengaged the flywheel keeps spinning
Your reward for the day should be go to Dairy Queen and treat yourself to a Blizzard lol
Erik has been pretty quick on buying me icecream these days 🙈
Use the flywheel, check all the timing markers and make sure it is in time, must of pushed the 285 plenty hard as it had 3 sizes of sheer pins and u used them all, especially flywheel plns
My husband likes to push his luck with farm equipment ;) (he has since been banned from running the baler). I think this was my last session timing the baler, since then I have had zero missed knots and everything has been running to perfection. It IS still a hair bit off between the knotters, but so far hasn't caused any issues, even after 2,000 bales :)
what are you cooking for supper tonight, maybe I can come up your way. Before i scare you off i'm in Florida so it would be a long drive.
Hopefully woodchuck 😄
@@This1LifeWeLive Can woodchuck really chuck wood?
800 to 900 bales in an afternoon is a good day.
You don't have the twine disc gear nut tight after you loosened it. It's spinning and the gear is not moving.
It has to be more than finger tight.
Correct. I spent probably 16 hrs working on it, so it was tough capturing every adjustment. Just tried to shoot the overall idea
I am so impressed that you would even do this many people have no idea. 👍
Put your change in a bucket of diesel by going bucket put some diesel in it but change down in there let himself for a couple days you'll be good as new
👍
WD-40 you need some Liquid wrench of PB Blaster
Awesome , um reward for the day would be maybe spot welding just to fill the space that's warn out . Idk haha
Do ya want to see the Tedder?
While you can save money doing it yourself but it dont take much hay not getting baled or getting rained on to make service call seen cheap.
It's a gamble either way ;D
Do ya rent any hay property so you can do more? More bales more money. Hay pays! I rent 4 different properties.
Every baler I have had the flywheel has ran the whole machine.
you probably already know this by now but the right worm gear shaft was turning but not the worm gear ...need to actually tightn the nut you loosened to adust the twine discs to re-seat the taper fit.....also the "guy" with the tail that is against the twine disc that you put a washer on is not a twine disc clearance adjuster it sets how tight the twine discs hold the string it is basicly a flat spring the tigher you tighten it down the tighter it holds the string you adjust it by putting a string in with a pull gage and tighen it till you have to pull X # of pounds to pull the string thru when its closed tightening it to a washer behind it is defeating its purpose .........anyway i assume your baler tech got you going .....good luck hope you get that great looking hay up ok...
Need to remove that washer ,it does not belong there.
the cam discs will not re-time unless the nut is loose and the worm gear loose. The tail is for the tensioner, it move left or right adding or lessoning tension on the twine cam discs. The manual said a washer can be added if needed. The part there is off the old baler and mst likely quite worn, but in better shape than the parts we pulled off this baler.
But you'll find out in the next video if it got going or not ;)
@@This1LifeWeLive ...online tech help is predictable...tons of new parts....4 digits expense later ...cheaper to buy a new baler .... ugggg ...best of luck.....:)....i guess if it all worked as it should your content would be boring LOL.....:)
Hay Suz, what are you going to be for Halloween?
Myself . . . that's scary enough . . . just ask Erik 😂
You did realize the knotter on the right isn't tight?
Use chain lubes for motorcycles that dont collect dirt
I didn't know that was a feature of mototrcycle lube!
Ok I may be late to the party here. But watching your video during the manual turning of the PTO, the worm gear on the right side is not turning when the worm gear on the left is turning. I am no professional expert, but that seems wrong to me.
I love you
You're missing a flat plate on your tension springs on the string tension and when they get War they will not hold the string need about 8 lb pull on the string so you need to buy a flat plate to go with that curved plate but I would put two new ones on then you won't have no problems
do not grease any chains & sprockets!!it will increase wear on these parts..
You should get a new cowgirl hat.
I like that idea!
Spa,fancy dining,shopping spree ?
A farmer's work is never done.
First baby 👊🏻💪🏻
Buy you the building you want for your office.
check and compare home depot (huskie brand).
There is something wrong if you cannot turn the flywheel by hand
I can with two hands, lol just not one handed
@@This1LifeWeLive your plunger rollers are squeaking alot. May need to check them. They go often
You need to change the name of your Channel to WT Farm equipment Girl Repair channel!
😂🙈
😁
Need a mower or baler repaired call Suzanne 📞 on WTFARM great job
You can clean the chains without taking them off brilliant video