I know this is an older video but I still want it to make a comment. Thank you for being smart enough to figure out how to actually test airflow. One Summer I racked my brains trying to figure it out and finally had given up. At that time there was not a lot of information out there on this subject. A while back I need it to remove the tires from my pickup truck. My truck sits for 6 months to a year and is hardly ever driven. So when I went to remove the lug nuts I knew they were going to be a tad difficult to remove. In the past I really did not have issue with removing lug nuts. I set the gun to kill and went at it. Not a single lug nut broke loose not one of them. I ended up using a pry bar to break them free. I had honestly believed it was my airgun since it had not been used in a very long time. Back in the '80s and '90s I use this thing all the time. Always put oil in the gun prior to use I still follow that process to this day. So I figured from sitting and not being used perhaps it had met its end. So I ordered a new one which had a lot more power since this gun that I owned was purchased in the '80s and now we are in the 2000s so figure better technology. As soon as I picked it up I went to the front of my pickup truck and tried to loosing the lug nuts. Same exact same as my old gun would not break any of them free. So that's when I tried to figure out what was wrong. The biggest difference between what I used in the '80s and '90s and part of the early 2000s was a different smaller air compressor with a shorter hose. That hose was 50 ft or 15 mm. When I bought a new house with a garage in it I decided to go up in my air compressor and switched over to a 100 ft hose or 30 mm. The hose is 3/8 of an inch 10 mm. I had two different things that I was using that I never had in the '80s. I had two hoses connected together and I also have a hose reel what I have connected a larger diameter coming from the compressor hoping not to lose pressure through the fittings. As I said I was really ranking my brain and one afternoon after being frustrated with what was going on in the garage I decided once again to look for a solution. That when I discovered the type of fittings that you are using. It was a total fluke that I found these fittings. I was looking for a bigger diameter hose and found the fittings. I quickly started looking at them could not believe in the picture the difference between their brand and a normal fitting that you would buy at The Big box store off the shelf. I went to the manufacturer's website found that I could order these fittings in bulk and saving a lot of money compared to Amazon and eBay. Since I have a lot of tools side note I'm not a professional mechanic I'm just a DIY mechanic and I like having the right tool for the job. When my fittings showed up I could not believe the difference in sizes. I could almost put the original fitting into the new one. I also ordered a couple quick disconnects that fit the new fittings and was recommended on their website. Unfortunately after that I haven't really had something to test it on since I already removed all the lug nuts on my pickup truck. My only gauge of power was the torque I felt pulling the trigger and the sound the tool now made which was a lot louder. I have started taking more interest in doing things in the garage again and one of those is to update the hose that goes to the compressor. And I was still trying to figure out a better way of gauging performance. I absolutely love your solution I just wish I could buy it from you instead of having to make one. I'm in the states and as you know you're in the UK -) so I'm going to put a list together and order the parts and make my own gauge. I am so thankful for coming across your video and I do apologize for the length of comment. I thought perhaps of other people would see what I have been dealing with it could help them out also. I most definitely give you a thumbs up and subscribe to your channel.
best video ive seen on this subject, i recently bought an air wrench to service my own vehicles and because i dont use it often i use my basic 8 gallon 135 psi compressor which works fine but i thought my tool was low on power and set it to 90 psi at the regulator, needless to say i understand how it works now
Thanks for a great video. The difference between static and working pressure is amazing. Often one reads complaints that a certain air tool cannot remove a lug but, when other users have no problem. Clearly, they need to look at their setup.
Although in some instances it can be the bolt in question that is either damaged, rusted, tightened way above spec or a combination of both that's causing the trouble of removing a particular bolt in question.
It's common sense really, bigger internal diameter = better air flow, but when you first get started with air compressors it can get quite confusing so this is a good helpful video.
Good experiment video. I originally built my system with a 60 gallon 155 max pressure unit and fitted it with all 3/8" fittings, pressure regulator, water separator and 50' hose. It worked good for most tools, but it was lacking in certain ones like grit blaster and air ratchet. I am refitting it now with all 1/2" fittings, regulator, hose etc. I expect a huge performance boost especially with type G open flow couplings.
Great video, great information...now I have a better and more detail understanding of how to get more air flow to the tool for better performance. THANKS!!!
This video was a great resource for me. I didn't personally purchase your kit (I'm not in EU either) but I followed the principles in this video to assemble a custom manifold for my compressor. I'm seeing the benefits of higher air flow and the compressor is almost the same as stock. The manifold is just substantially bigger. (P.S. Using a pipe union at the tank is a good option to make the manifold easily serviceable.) Thanks for posting!
Thanks, a very useful video. I have a 100l 10 cfm comp. and worked out for myself it was worth investing in a 20m 10mm hose, as my machine is on the edge of being powerful enough to use high demand tools like impact wrenches. In the reviews of the Erbauer tool kit I bought there were lots of complaints the ratchet and impact wrenches (90 psi) didn't have any guts, but I just turned the tank pressure up to 120 psi to allow for pressure drop and found the impact wrench worked great on my tractor nuts.Yes, my tank is on the small side, so I may have to wait for it to top up to get all the nuts off, but I'm not working in a tyre bay or F1 pit. For the sake of a tenner I will invest in a y-fitting and gauge, just to take the guess work out of it. I'm hoping I can get enough pressure ( 120 psi is my max) to use a spray gun on my barn roof. I know that will be pushing it, but maybe using high flow fittings and plugging straight into the tank will give me the boost I need. My small tank size won't be a problem, I hope, as I'm thinking I'll be spraying a square meter at a time, before moving up or down the ladder, whilst the tank tops up.
The ideal set up on (in my opinion and what I run for a 150' run) is a 1" ball valve handlined into the compressor, (with the valve being 1" the orifice will be 3/4"), then 3/4" line through the shop which then connects to a 1/2" regulator-filter at the reel with 1/2" FITTINGS and 1/2" line, then top it off with milton G-style 1/2" high flow fittings. The pressure drop is dramatically less, and you can run more line this way. All too often I see guys with 3/8 ball valve at the compressor (1/4" orifice) going to a 3/8 line with 1/4" fittings, with filters and unnecessary couplers in between. Running 50psi working pressure at the tool and never knowing.
I run a hose straight from the tank with a hose and impact wrench hooked up directly with no quick connect fittings at all. just straight hose to tool directly. directly into the tank without any extra fittings The performance is unmatched it has so much torque you wouldn't believe it. its only powering a cheap impact wrench and it zips off the tightest lugnuts instantly its only a 95 to 125 psi compressor though so its fine on the pressure range for the tool.
I got so frustrated with my SGS 100l 14.6cfm and 10mm internal diameter hose (as seen on the clip), that finally, I have bought Makita DTZ1000Z. Portable, 1000Nm, thank you. Compressors are for pumping tyres, painting and blowing the dust.
I can totally relate with such a choice. But please do not compare a single function, although top quality, tool like the Makita. With a top price to go along! To a cheap compressor and tools. That does a lot more diversified work for a lot less price wise! My workshop installation and several tools are living proof of the concept. ;-) That's comparing a specific use race car, to a "tool holder" like a tractor. ;-) BTW properly tuned and setup the compressor will not take any shame from the cordless. Cheers
Very helpful video sir! I now know not to set my regulator at 90psi, but just leave at it's max 125psi due to the bid drop in working pressure to my impact and air hammer. I'm going to see if I can rig up that direct line on my compressor too. That seems to be the way to go for tools requiring 90 PSI.
Nice! I changed to a coupling with an on/off valve. Which my Dad and I like but I feel it restrict air flow. I have 3/8 lines but 150' of them because we need a lot of hose to reach outside of our shop. Need to install the new hose reel my stepmom bought us and tee into the line and use it for just shop use.
I'm setting up a 31cfm @175psi 80gal 7.5hp air compressor in my home shop for a pneumatic tapping arm, CNC, media blasting cabinet and air tools. Between having to outfit it with a softstarter since just its surge current is 2/3 of my homes electrical service 😬 and a refrigerated air dryer I'm currently designing the air system which uses a 3/4" ID(19mm ID) rigid aluminum air tubing. Luckily the air lines length is a fairly short run. Interested to see what the differences between static and working pressure on a system where air tubing is almost 2x the diameter as the largest tubing size you talked about.
Good video. But you lost a lot more by using a quick connect at the tank. . now try it by screwing the hose straight into the tank and watch the numbers rise even more. you could use a ball valve providing its got a nice big hole in the centre between tank and hose, but a quick connect even high flow is a big restriction on 3/8th / 10mm hose.
This video is a great help in understanding how to improve compressor performance. I have a Wolf 50L, 14 cfm compressor which gives a disappointing performance. Obviously, there is a restriction at the tool connection so the critical issue is providing a better supply to that point. Phil Downes suggestion of a direct 10mm connection to the tank would seem to make sense although it may be a nuisance if also using the other connections (tyre inflation etc). I have a 10m length of 10mm air hose available. Are there any quick release couplings larger than 6mm that could be used? What would the fitting at the tank be?
Very informative. Checking my running pressure first thing in am. Pretty sure I set static pressure to 90 psi and never had a problem but this old dog just learned a new trick. Thanks Edit: I may have run it higher than 90 just because. Curious to know where I set it years ago.
This video is a great help in understanding how to improve compressor performance. I have a Wolf 50L, 14 cfm compressor which gives a disappointing performance. Obviously, there is a restriction at the tool connection so the critical issue is providing a better supply to that point. Phil Downes suggestion of a direct 10mm connection to the tank would seem to make sense although it may be a nuisance if also using the other connections (tyre inflation etc). I have a 10m length of 10mm air hose available. Are there any quick release couplings larger than 6mm that could be used? What would the fitting at the tank be?
What is used to pull large nuts and bolts are a electric impact cannot go wrong, which works for me especially front end components. I would start of with electric and used the air tools in some situations.😲🙀
+ 1 on this, I'm just trying to research my first compressor and have narrowed it down to a kit from GT Air, this idea seems a great way of getting the best from it but I'm struggling to understand why I'd be adding a 5m 13mm ID hose to the regulator and then reducing the pressure for a further 15m with a 10mm hose to the tool, to me surely it would be better to continue the 13 after the regulator to the tool and only reducing it there if needed or does this not make a difference? Just trying to get my head around all this.
Hi Dan - This is a good question. You could use a 13mm ID working airline if you wish which would be a bit less restrictive - however, lugging around and actually using a large bore airline of this size can be a bit tiresome and impractical - the thinner ones are a bit lighter and more agile/comfortable. Getting rid of the initial restrictions on the compressor side all the way to the wall mount regulator makes the biggest difference to the performance and as long as you're using a 10mm ID work airline you won't experience much drop from it (negligible). We do supply a PCL retractable work airline which has a 13mm ID and they're very good, but I've tested the difference between that and the 10mm ID with the High Flow kit and the performance difference is very small. The best thing you can do is bypass the compressor regulator and use a minimum of 10mm ID - and that for all intents and purposes is all you really need without getting too worried about it.
much larger internal structure of the regulator gives much higher airflow depending on what you regulate the pressure to. larger regulators have better flowrate. even if you reduce it after. it will still be better than a cheap crap regulator.
Eliminating my regulator and giving my impacts 1/2" ID everything is how my 21 gallon compressor lets me work on my semi truck. I'm looking forward to the day I can buy myself an 80 gallon or bigger.
@@philldownes8685 You know those tanks aren't that big, right? Most are between 6 and 8 gallons. Some are 12. Running a 14L diesel "generator" for such a small air supply only makes sense in an emergency eg roadside.
@@dchawk81 Something you could consider is getting an auxiliary air tank. I know that doesn't make the compressor more powerful but it may be a good solution to get more run-time with your air tools. You have to make sure that you don't overheat the compressor though.
@@dchawk81 What size did you see? I know you can get an 11 gallon portable air tank for $40 - $60 (where I am) and convert it to an auxiliary tank. The only thing is the pressure it's designed for may be a limitation. I did see a purpose made 20 gallon auxillary air tank for $200 though.
How come you didn't show the results with the regulator you recommend? I would expect it to be better than the original regulator but not as good as no regulator.
Nice informative video👍. You might try not jumping the camera around so much. I almost lost my lunch. My 220v, 10hp, 60 gallon compressor is in its own shed outdoors. Air is piped into the garage in galvanized 1/2” pipe. Serves my needs very well, and much quieter with the compressor remotely located.
The issue is - that tool is not designed to run at 115psi so you really need to consider what your equipment is capable of handling. I have a pancake 2.5 CFM@90PSI 6 gal Porter Cable compressor. I will try the following: run a 10 foot 3/8" direct line (no quick connect) from the drain valve (bottom) to my Ingersoll Rand 119MAX air hammer. This hammer requires 23 CFM@90PSI. I may even consider using an 11 gal boost tank for my occasional use of this hammer.
i have the same compressor, was surprised by how quiet it is, one thing to note thought the wheels on it are terrible!!.. if you are moving it about alot or using it mobile be careful ! mine broke into about 3 pieces one day rolling it down the ramp of the van. Had to put jockey wheels on from a caravan
All quick connects do cause some restriction, so the more you have the more restriction you'll get - so its wise to keep them to a minimum - but the convenience of quick connect is generally quite welcome.
It doesn't bypass the check valve or unloader. Those work in the same way It just allows more air to travel faster with out the restrictive 1/4" bsp ports from the top outlet and standard regulator unit.
I would like to know is how can i get more pressure from 150 psi to 3500 psi can i by pass the regulater strait to my tank? I have a high preesure tank.
Good morning, I have bought the hi flow half kit, thank you. I can't find the parts I need to regulate the pressure at the tool end. As in the gauge and the Y piece. Can you send me the link please. Thanks.
the makita battery impact wont get even close to air impact..... massive difference. battery is handy for out in the field and that where it stops.. air tools last about 30 times longer too..
You should be able to. Just be aware that the compressor will run more to fill the extra air space. You need to make sure to give it adequate time to cool down. If you're planning on adding a quick connector to the tank, I suggest also adding a valve. You could close the valve so that the additional tank holds its air if you remove the air hose that connects it to the main tank.
All the American "inspection ports" are on the bottom, and arent for inspection, they are for releasing the condensation that collects at the bottom of the tank, is that what you are referring too? Does UK,Euro have an additional upper mounted port that doesnt release trhe moisture like that?
What gets me is how restrictive a lot of air products actually are at consumer level unless you spend big money. All i can say is be careful by passing the regulator as shouldn't affect it but i have seen stuff go boom the way you have setup as a small leak caused system to keep going and over pressurise where as through regulator it would of turned off
Sorry but this is incorrect. The pressure switch controls the final pressure and when the power is shut off to the motor and not the outlet regulator. The pressure switch is still doing its job in this setup and perfectly safe. Thanks for watching
If you do the experiment while the impact wrench is on full load, like removing a lug nut. your numbers will be different. Another thing, the manufacturers manual says: do not run with no load because this may damage the impact system. Thank you.
You could put a larger fitting there if you like - but the results of the testing speak for themselves, there's very minimal drop in pressure with our suggested setup, so using the standard 1/4" fitting on that outlet doesn't affect it as you might expect. 1/4" fittings are cheap and in plentiful supply and most domestic airlines have 1/4" threadwork.
@@gtairprojects5298 so what is the biggest compressor i can get for a domestic supply ive been on the gtair site and they seem to only go to 90 ltr i need a 150 that can run in my home garage ?
We can supply compressors up to 270L. The 100L direct drive models have a 13A plug, so if you want plug and play go for that one. Both the 90L and 150L belt drive models are not supplied with a plug - lots of people fit 13A plugs to these, but we don't specifically recommend this as they run close to the limit of a 13A plug. Its not too expensive to have a dedicated 16A supply with a blue plug routed to the compressor and a seperate 32A MCB dedicated. This is the correct way to do it for hassle free operation and motor longevity/performance. I wouldn't run any air compressor on an extension lead either.
Checking the inside diameter of many 1/4 high flow fittings I have found most range from.280 to .302 .with an air temp of 90 degrees f,static pressure of 140 psi,working pressure of 90psi ,working with the larger diameter of .302 this will give you a flow of around 137.71 scfm.more than enough to run most any air tools.
Switching to a bigger regulator or bypassing it altogether or using the outlet from the tank.. Doesn't that make you motor run more, like non stop to replace that high pressure?? Burn your compressor out...
It depends on how you use it. Having higher air flow doesn't necessary mean using that higher flow constantly. Using an impact wrench as an example, it's typically used in short bursts with long pauses. There's a benefit to having higher flow because the full potential of the tool can be used within those short bursts. If you were to use something like a DA sander or an HVLP spray gun then problems could arise. Those tools are normally used for longer periods of time with shorter pauses. It comes down to taking time to let the compressor catch up and cool down. Either that or getting a bigger tank with a stronger compressor.
but you are measuring 90 psi on no load working pressure. i think that you should to measure 90 psi on full load working pressure to not damage impact wrench internal components
Two big mistakes made in this video. One is the running pressure should always be taken with the tool under load. A tool not under load will blast through airflow without doing any work (needing pressure) but will push through much more volume than needed and cause a lower reading. Two, putting tank pressure into an air tool designed for and regulated for a lower flow and pressure can be dangerous. So yes run regulators, fittings and hoses that will give you the REGULATED pressure you need at the tool but NOT unregulated....EVER!! I've seen air tanks and guns blow up and people can be SERIOUSLY injured by following the directions in this video.
I thought he did make clear the precautions to be taken and he had explained not to blast a higher volume of air through tools not designed to take more.
False report. Quick connect fitting at the tank will be a restriction as well as at the tool. Even a 10 mm inner diameter air line will be a restriction. Test should have included a 1/2 inch or 13mm inner diameter air hose with no quick connectors in place. Also the gauge measuring the pressure drop was placed where there was static and velocity driven air which would give different readings due to Bernoulli principle of pressure drop any time air velocity increases across a given spot. Try to know what you are talking about before trying to influencing others who are not informed.
Ive bought yoyr compressor and bought all the bits off ebay. What i would like to know , you reduce down from 1/2 to 1/4 at the output of the regulator surely this would restrict flow into whatever diameter hose you have connected , from the 1/4 reg to tool. I tried putting a 1/2" quick euro connector on the regulator and a 10mm hose , 10metres. My test results were showing a 95% of the tank pressure at the tool. Have you tried this?
I know this is an older video but I still want it to make a comment. Thank you for being smart enough to figure out how to actually test airflow. One Summer I racked my brains trying to figure it out and finally had given up. At that time there was not a lot of information out there on this subject.
A while back I need it to remove the tires from my pickup truck. My truck sits for 6 months to a year and is hardly ever driven. So when I went to remove the lug nuts I knew they were going to be a tad difficult to remove. In the past I really did not have issue with removing lug nuts. I set the gun to kill and went at it. Not a single lug nut broke loose not one of them. I ended up using a pry bar to break them free.
I had honestly believed it was my airgun since it had not been used in a very long time. Back in the '80s and '90s I use this thing all the time. Always put oil in the gun prior to use I still follow that process to this day. So I figured from sitting and not being used perhaps it had met its end. So I ordered a new one which had a lot more power since this gun that I owned was purchased in the '80s and now we are in the 2000s so figure better technology.
As soon as I picked it up I went to the front of my pickup truck and tried to loosing the lug nuts. Same exact same as my old gun would not break any of them free. So that's when I tried to figure out what was wrong.
The biggest difference between what I used in the '80s and '90s and part of the early 2000s was a different smaller air compressor with a shorter hose. That hose was 50 ft or 15 mm.
When I bought a new house with a garage in it I decided to go up in my air compressor and switched over to a 100 ft hose or 30 mm. The hose is 3/8 of an inch 10 mm. I had two different things that I was using that I never had in the '80s. I had two hoses connected together and I also have a hose reel what I have connected a larger diameter coming from the compressor hoping not to lose pressure through the fittings.
As I said I was really ranking my brain and one afternoon after being frustrated with what was going on in the garage I decided once again to look for a solution. That when I discovered the type of fittings that you are using. It was a total fluke that I found these fittings. I was looking for a bigger diameter hose and found the fittings. I quickly started looking at them could not believe in the picture the difference between their brand and a normal fitting that you would buy at The Big box store off the shelf.
I went to the manufacturer's website found that I could order these fittings in bulk and saving a lot of money compared to Amazon and eBay. Since I have a lot of tools side note I'm not a professional mechanic I'm just a DIY mechanic and I like having the right tool for the job. When my fittings showed up I could not believe the difference in sizes. I could almost put the original fitting into the new one. I also ordered a couple quick disconnects that fit the new fittings and was recommended on their website.
Unfortunately after that I haven't really had something to test it on since I already removed all the lug nuts on my pickup truck. My only gauge of power was the torque I felt pulling the trigger and the sound the tool now made which was a lot louder.
I have started taking more interest in doing things in the garage again and one of those is to update the hose that goes to the compressor. And I was still trying to figure out a better way of gauging performance. I absolutely love your solution I just wish I could buy it from you instead of having to make one. I'm in the states and as you know you're in the UK -) so I'm going to put a list together and order the parts and make my own gauge. I am so thankful for coming across your video and I do apologize for the length of comment. I thought perhaps of other people would see what I have been dealing with it could help them out also.
I most definitely give you a thumbs up and subscribe to your channel.
best video ive seen on this subject, i recently bought an air wrench to service my own vehicles and because i dont use it often i use my basic 8 gallon 135 psi compressor which works fine but i thought my tool was low on power and set it to 90 psi at the regulator, needless to say i understand how it works now
Thanks for a great video. The difference between static and working pressure is amazing. Often one reads complaints that a certain air tool cannot remove a lug but, when other users have no problem.
Clearly, they need to look at their setup.
Although in some instances it can be the bolt in question that is either damaged, rusted, tightened way above spec or a combination of both that's causing the trouble of removing a particular bolt in question.
Well done! Excellent presentation! Thanks for including Imperial and PSI for those of us on the other side of the pond.
It's common sense really, bigger internal diameter = better air flow, but when you first get started with air compressors it can get quite confusing so this is a good helpful video.
After copious reaearch im buying this set up based purely on your video. Thank you.
I just bought my air impact wrench and compressor and was frustrated because it’s it working but you explained it perfectly
This should be the gold standard for videos!
Fantastic, just bought my first compressor and already adding mods to improve performance, brilliant. Thank you.
Good experiment video. I originally built my system with a 60 gallon 155 max pressure unit and fitted it with all 3/8" fittings, pressure regulator, water separator and 50' hose. It worked good for most tools, but it was lacking in certain ones like grit blaster and air ratchet. I am refitting it now with all 1/2" fittings, regulator, hose etc. I expect a huge performance boost especially with type G open flow couplings.
It takes a Muzungu to explain it so clearly.
Many thanks
Great video, great information...now I have a better and more detail understanding of how to get more air flow to the tool for better performance. THANKS!!!
Glad you covered the unregulated note on the inspection port fitting. You should do a video on “slight mods” to increase compressor efficiency next
This video was a great resource for me. I didn't personally purchase your kit (I'm not in EU either) but I followed the principles in this video to assemble a custom manifold for my compressor. I'm seeing the benefits of higher air flow and the compressor is almost the same as stock. The manifold is just substantially bigger.
(P.S. Using a pipe union at the tank is a good option to make the manifold easily serviceable.)
Thanks for posting!
Thanks, a very useful video. I have a 100l 10 cfm comp. and worked out for myself it was worth investing in a 20m 10mm hose, as my machine is on the edge of being powerful enough to use high demand tools like impact wrenches. In the reviews of the Erbauer tool kit I bought there were lots of complaints the ratchet and impact wrenches (90 psi) didn't have any guts, but I just turned the tank pressure up to 120 psi to allow for pressure drop and found the impact wrench worked great on my tractor nuts.Yes, my tank is on the small side, so I may have to wait for it to top up to get all the nuts off, but I'm not working in a tyre bay or F1 pit. For the sake of a tenner I will invest in a y-fitting and gauge, just to take the guess work out of it.
I'm hoping I can get enough pressure ( 120 psi is my max) to use a spray gun on my barn roof. I know that will be pushing it, but maybe using high flow fittings and plugging straight into the tank will give me the boost I need. My small tank size won't be a problem, I hope, as I'm thinking I'll be spraying a square meter at a time, before moving up or down the ladder, whilst the tank tops up.
So more girth for the pressure 😁.. excellent video, thank you.
At last someone talking air!
The ideal set up on (in my opinion and what I run for a 150' run) is a 1" ball valve handlined into the compressor, (with the valve being 1" the orifice will be 3/4"), then 3/4" line through the shop which then connects to a 1/2" regulator-filter at the reel with 1/2" FITTINGS and 1/2" line, then top it off with milton G-style 1/2" high flow fittings. The pressure drop is dramatically less, and you can run more line this way. All too often I see guys with 3/8 ball valve at the compressor (1/4" orifice) going to a 3/8 line with 1/4" fittings, with filters and unnecessary couplers in between. Running 50psi working pressure at the tool and never knowing.
Just the video I was looking for.. thanks great video.
Great now understand it better. Also battle with my conpressor yesterday. Have it on my channel soon👍
I run a hose straight from the tank with a hose and impact wrench hooked up directly with no quick connect fittings at all. just straight hose to tool directly. directly into the tank without any extra fittings
The performance is unmatched it has so much torque you wouldn't believe it. its only powering a cheap impact wrench and it zips off the tightest lugnuts instantly
its only a 95 to 125 psi compressor though so its fine on the pressure range for the tool.
I’m surprised it makes so much difference....Great video 👍
also gives massive extra cfm
I got so frustrated with my SGS 100l 14.6cfm and 10mm internal diameter hose (as seen on the clip), that finally, I have bought Makita DTZ1000Z. Portable, 1000Nm, thank you. Compressors are for pumping tyres, painting and blowing the dust.
I can totally relate with such a choice.
But please do not compare a single function, although top quality, tool like the Makita. With a top price to go along!
To a cheap compressor and tools. That does a lot more diversified work for a lot less price wise! My workshop installation and several tools are living proof of the concept. ;-)
That's comparing a specific use race car, to a "tool holder" like a tractor. ;-)
BTW properly tuned and setup the compressor will not take any shame from the cordless.
Cheers
Excellent tutorial. I learned a lot. Thank you very much
Very helpful video sir! I now know not to set my regulator at 90psi, but just leave at it's max 125psi due to the bid drop in working pressure to my impact and air hammer. I'm going to see if I can rig up that direct line on my compressor too. That seems to be the way to go for tools requiring 90 PSI.
Thanks again!! My air tool works now!!!
Great video! Very helpful!
Great video and great channel!
Nice! I changed to a coupling with an on/off valve. Which my Dad and I like but I feel it restrict air flow. I have 3/8 lines but 150' of them because we need a lot of hose to reach outside of our shop. Need to install the new hose reel my stepmom bought us and tee into the line and use it for just shop use.
Cracking video!! Keep them coming!!!
I'm setting up a 31cfm @175psi 80gal 7.5hp air compressor in my home shop for a pneumatic tapping arm, CNC, media blasting cabinet and air tools.
Between having to outfit it with a softstarter since just its surge current is 2/3 of my homes electrical service 😬 and a refrigerated air dryer I'm currently designing the air system which uses a 3/4" ID(19mm ID) rigid aluminum air tubing. Luckily the air lines length is a fairly short run.
Interested to see what the differences between static and working pressure on a system where air tubing is almost 2x the diameter as the largest tubing size you talked about.
PERFECTLY EXPLAINED
Thank you for explaining this!!!!
Top Company fantastic help and advice I recommend to anyone.
Thank's for the information I didn't know that 👍
Excellent, understand it fully
Good video. But you lost a lot more by using a quick connect at the tank. . now try it by screwing the hose straight into the tank and watch the numbers rise even more. you could use a ball valve providing its got a nice big hole in the centre between tank and hose, but a quick connect even high flow is a big restriction on 3/8th / 10mm hose.
This video is a great help in understanding how to improve compressor performance. I have a Wolf 50L, 14 cfm compressor which gives a disappointing performance. Obviously, there is a restriction at the tool connection so the critical issue is providing a better supply to that point. Phil Downes suggestion of a direct 10mm connection to the tank would seem to make sense although it may be a nuisance if also using the other connections (tyre inflation etc). I have a 10m length of 10mm air hose available. Are there any quick release couplings larger than 6mm that could be used? What would the fitting at the tank be?
Very informative. Checking my running pressure first thing in am. Pretty sure I set static pressure to 90 psi and never had a problem but this old dog just learned a new trick. Thanks
Edit: I may have run it higher than 90 just because. Curious to know where I set it years ago.
This video is a great help in understanding how to improve compressor performance. I have a Wolf 50L, 14 cfm compressor which gives a disappointing performance. Obviously, there is a restriction at the tool connection so the critical issue is providing a better supply to that point. Phil Downes suggestion of a direct 10mm connection to the tank would seem to make sense although it may be a nuisance if also using the other connections (tyre inflation etc). I have a 10m length of 10mm air hose available. Are there any quick release couplings larger than 6mm that could be used? What would the fitting at the tank be?
Good video, you sound like Mahyer Tousi by the way. Not a bad thing.
that "euro" fitting looks like the same thing on mine here in the U.S.
What is used to pull large nuts and bolts are a electric impact cannot go wrong, which works for me especially front end components. I would start of with electric and used the air tools in some situations.😲🙀
Great tips thanks.
Thanks for this video, all years using air tools did not know this this make sense especially lug nut 👍🏿🙀😲🤣👏🏾🇯🇲🇨🇦🙏🏾
Is Europe still on PAL 25 frames per second?
Well done! Cheers mate.
Nice informative video. Thanks
piece of cake thanks 😃
Just curious as to the drop that is experienced by connecting the 10mm hose to the regulated outlet.
+ 1 on this, I'm just trying to research my first compressor and have narrowed it down to a kit from GT Air, this idea seems a great way of getting the best from it but I'm struggling to understand why I'd be adding a 5m 13mm ID hose to the regulator and then reducing the pressure for a further 15m with a 10mm hose to the tool, to me surely it would be better to continue the 13 after the regulator to the tool and only reducing it there if needed or does this not make a difference? Just trying to get my head around all this.
Hi Dan - This is a good question. You could use a 13mm ID working airline if you wish which would be a bit less restrictive - however, lugging around and actually using a large bore airline of this size can be a bit tiresome and impractical - the thinner ones are a bit lighter and more agile/comfortable. Getting rid of the initial restrictions on the compressor side all the way to the wall mount regulator makes the biggest difference to the performance and as long as you're using a 10mm ID work airline you won't experience much drop from it (negligible). We do supply a PCL retractable work airline which has a 13mm ID and they're very good, but I've tested the difference between that and the 10mm ID with the High Flow kit and the performance difference is very small. The best thing you can do is bypass the compressor regulator and use a minimum of 10mm ID - and that for all intents and purposes is all you really need without getting too worried about it.
whats the use of a 1/2" regulator if you reduce to 1/4" right after?
much larger internal structure of the regulator gives much higher airflow depending on what you regulate the pressure to.
larger regulators have better flowrate. even if you reduce it after. it will still be better than a cheap crap regulator.
Can you show with before and after changed that air tools upgrade how opened bolt or screw
Oh you mad scientist
thank you
Eliminating my regulator and giving my impacts 1/2" ID everything is how my 21 gallon compressor lets me work on my semi truck.
I'm looking forward to the day I can buy myself an 80 gallon or bigger.
if your working on your semi then just have the engine running and use the trucks own air supply.... should be 120 psi easy
@@philldownes8685 You know those tanks aren't that big, right?
Most are between 6 and 8 gallons. Some are 12.
Running a 14L diesel "generator" for such a small air supply only makes sense in an emergency eg roadside.
@@dchawk81 Something you could consider is getting an auxiliary air tank. I know that doesn't make the compressor more powerful but it may be a good solution to get more run-time with your air tools. You have to make sure that you don't overheat the compressor though.
@@luchvk I looked into it and they're so damned expensive themselves it's crazy.
My compressor is about shot anyway though. It needs replaced.
@@dchawk81 What size did you see? I know you can get an 11 gallon portable air tank for $40 - $60 (where I am) and convert it to an auxiliary tank. The only thing is the pressure it's designed for may be a limitation. I did see a purpose made 20 gallon auxillary air tank for $200 though.
Very well made video! But why does it seem like its 15fps? Great content, clear as day image, but the rough movement made it hard to watch.
How come you didn't show the results with the regulator you recommend? I would expect it to be better than the original regulator but not as good as no regulator.
I think the results would be the same 20% drop however with the addition of being able to regulate it for say a spray gun that runs at 2 Bar.
Genius 👀💯👍
Nice informative video👍. You might try not jumping the camera around so much. I almost lost my lunch.
My 220v, 10hp, 60 gallon compressor is in its own shed outdoors. Air is piped into the garage in galvanized 1/2” pipe. Serves my needs very well, and much quieter with the compressor remotely located.
The issue is - that tool is not designed to run at 115psi so you really need to consider what your equipment is capable of handling.
I have a pancake 2.5 CFM@90PSI 6 gal Porter Cable compressor. I will try the following: run a 10 foot 3/8" direct line (no quick connect) from the drain valve (bottom) to my Ingersoll Rand 119MAX air hammer. This hammer requires 23 CFM@90PSI. I may even consider using an 11 gal boost tank for my occasional use of this hammer.
i have the same compressor, was surprised by how quiet it is, one thing to note thought the wheels on it are terrible!!.. if you are moving it about alot or using it mobile be careful ! mine broke into about 3 pieces one day rolling it down the ramp of the van. Had to put jockey wheels on from a caravan
Does the 1/4 bsp quick connect not cause any restrictions to the flow?
All quick connects do cause some restriction, so the more you have the more restriction you'll get - so its wise to keep them to a minimum - but the convenience of quick connect is generally quite welcome.
Bypass check valve, and unloader is tough on system, Do this only if needed, or permanently!??
It doesn't bypass the check valve or unloader.
Those work in the same way
It just allows more air to travel faster with out the restrictive 1/4" bsp ports from the top outlet and standard regulator unit.
With the mods, does this increase the speed the air depletes
I would like to know is how can i get more pressure from 150 psi to 3500 psi can i by pass the regulater strait to my tank? I have a high preesure tank.
Thankyou for the info
very useful video
So that air gun is running at higher than 90 at the end...Won't the 115 damage it?
What can I do with a CALIFORNIA AIR TOOLS CAT-4620AC 4GAL 2HP Twn Compressor?
Good morning,
I have bought the hi flow half kit, thank you. I can't find the parts I need to regulate the pressure at the tool end. As in the gauge and the Y piece. Can you send me the link please.
Thanks.
Ryan Burisch thank you 👍
Do we have any in the U.S.A.?
hello how much is the euro connector set up your showing pleasewith guage
Fantastic thanks
Nailers have Minimum Recommended Air Delivery SCFM @ 90PSI 1.2 or 2.8. Is smaller better?
Good video. Made me realise air ain't for me. Going to get a Makita DTW1002Z 18v LXT Brushless 1/2". Even though it's battey it's got a 1000Nmt.
the makita battery impact wont get even close to air impact..... massive difference. battery is handy for out in the field and that where it stops.. air tools last about 30 times longer too..
@@philldownes8685 Had the Makita nearly a year now and it's handled every thing it's been put on. For me it's spot on.
Hi do you sell the air pressure gauge set up you made that connects directly to the tool?
I believe I have just found it in your site (Air tool pressure tester) £15.99 Is that the correct one?
@@1990simon2009 Hi - yes thats the correct one :)
Where did you get that inspection plug swap from mate
Looking at your online compressors and there's no stock of the belt drive? For months...any updates?
Hi - They are due in 23 October 2020. Delays with shipping and high demand at the moment.
Can i run a air line from the moter to my high psi tank?
You should be able to. Just be aware that the compressor will run more to fill the extra air space. You need to make sure to give it adequate time to cool down.
If you're planning on adding a quick connector to the tank, I suggest also adding a valve. You could close the valve so that the additional tank holds its air if you remove the air hose that connects it to the main tank.
All the American "inspection ports" are on the bottom, and arent for inspection, they are for releasing the condensation that collects at the bottom of the tank, is that what you are referring too? Does UK,Euro have an additional upper mounted port that doesnt release trhe moisture like that?
I see its on the side of the tank, does it not have a lower plug as well?
@@feellnfroggy it does have a lower port for drainage and 2 ports on the sides (one each side). I guess most horizontal tanks are like this.
What gets me is how restrictive a lot of air products actually are at consumer level unless you spend big money.
All i can say is be careful by passing the regulator as shouldn't affect it but i have seen stuff go boom the way you have setup as a small leak caused system to keep going and over pressurise where as through regulator it would of turned off
Sorry but this is incorrect. The pressure switch controls the final pressure and when the power is shut off to the motor and not the outlet regulator. The pressure switch is still doing its job in this setup and perfectly safe. Thanks for watching
What does "BAR" mean?
Amazing !
Is there a similar setup that can be done to a US air compressor? Links appreciated...
thanks
Air gun price bro ? Online details
What's with the lowframe video?
Cheers!
Intro song?
If you do the experiment while the impact wrench is on full load, like removing a lug nut. your numbers will be different. Another thing, the manufacturers manual says: do not run with no load because this may damage the impact system. Thank you.
I was thinking the same thing,,,,,
the outlet on the regulator is a 1/4 , whats the point of having all this high flow stuff if it has to pass through a 1/4 inch choke point ?
You could put a larger fitting there if you like - but the results of the testing speak for themselves, there's very minimal drop in pressure with our suggested setup, so using the standard 1/4" fitting on that outlet doesn't affect it as you might expect. 1/4" fittings are cheap and in plentiful supply and most domestic airlines have 1/4" threadwork.
@@gtairprojects5298 so what is the biggest compressor i can get for a domestic supply ive been on the gtair site and they seem to only go to 90 ltr i need a 150 that can run in my home garage ?
We can supply compressors up to 270L. The 100L direct drive models have a 13A plug, so if you want plug and play go for that one. Both the 90L and 150L belt drive models are not supplied with a plug - lots of people fit 13A plugs to these, but we don't specifically recommend this as they run close to the limit of a 13A plug. Its not too expensive to have a dedicated 16A supply with a blue plug routed to the compressor and a seperate 32A MCB dedicated. This is the correct way to do it for hassle free operation and motor longevity/performance. I wouldn't run any air compressor on an extension lead either.
Checking the inside diameter of many 1/4 high flow fittings I have found most range from.280 to .302 .with an air temp of 90 degrees f,static pressure of 140 psi,working pressure of 90psi ,working with the larger diameter of .302 this will give you a flow of around 137.71 scfm.more than enough to run most any air tools.
Switching to a bigger regulator or bypassing it altogether or using the outlet from the tank.. Doesn't that make you motor run more, like non stop to replace that high pressure?? Burn your compressor out...
It depends on how you use it. Having higher air flow doesn't necessary mean using that higher flow constantly. Using an impact wrench as an example, it's typically used in short bursts with long pauses. There's a benefit to having higher flow because the full potential of the tool can be used within those short bursts.
If you were to use something like a DA sander or an HVLP spray gun then problems could arise. Those tools are normally used for longer periods of time with shorter pauses. It comes down to taking time to let the compressor catch up and cool down. Either that or getting a bigger tank with a stronger compressor.
you should not use more than one quick connect, they take away so much flow!
yep. they are proper crap and defintely slow down the volume. a lot. put the hose straight to the tank for less loss of air.
Oops, My comment wasn't correct
All links are DOA
Why is the video so choppy?
but you are measuring 90 psi on no load working pressure. i think that you should to measure 90 psi on full load working pressure to not damage impact wrench internal components
High flow fittings are the fkn shit !!!!!!!
Two big mistakes made in this video. One is the running pressure should always be taken with the tool under load. A tool not under load will blast through airflow without doing any work (needing pressure) but will push through much more volume than needed and cause a lower reading. Two, putting tank pressure into an air tool designed for and regulated for a lower flow and pressure can be dangerous. So yes run regulators, fittings and hoses that will give you the REGULATED pressure you need at the tool but NOT unregulated....EVER!! I've seen air tanks and guns blow up and people can be SERIOUSLY injured by following the directions in this video.
I thought he did make clear the precautions to be taken and he had explained not to blast a higher volume of air through tools not designed to take more.
False report. Quick connect fitting at the tank will be a restriction as well as at the tool. Even a 10 mm inner diameter air line will be a restriction. Test should have included a 1/2 inch or 13mm inner diameter air hose with no quick connectors in place. Also the gauge measuring the pressure drop was placed where there was static and velocity driven air which would give different readings due to Bernoulli principle of pressure drop any time air velocity increases across a given spot.
Try to know what you are talking about before trying to influencing others who are not informed.
This metric stuff is killing the video.
Ive bought yoyr compressor and bought all the bits off ebay. What i would like to know , you reduce down from 1/2 to 1/4 at the output of the regulator surely this would restrict flow into whatever diameter hose you have connected , from the 1/4 reg to tool. I tried putting a 1/2" quick euro connector on the regulator and a 10mm hose , 10metres. My test results were showing a 95% of the tank pressure at the tool. Have you tried this?
There kit does not make any sense at all to me. They reduce down to 1/4" which defeats the "high flow" point of buying it in the first place.