Nice,easy repair,well explained procedure. To anyone criticizing terminology,finding trivial faults etc.- This man showed you how to save a machine from landfill,at almost no cost. This should always be applauded.
Someone gave me a Craftsman 20 gallon 3/4 HP compressor from the 1980's, it wouldn't build pressure above 60 psi. I replaced the pressure switch, no change. Took everything apart and it all looked fine, reassembled it, no change. So eventually, after a few months of fiddling around with it and getting nowhere, I spotlessly cleaned up the reed valves and installed a new head gasket and it runs like brand new now. I was blown away at how good it works now. It has no leaks at all, I can leave it on for days and the motor never comes on once to refill itself, until I used it of course. Now all I need to do is give it a new paint job, it sorely needs one. So to everyone out there, don't be afraid to take on the task of rehabbing curb finds, most people are lazy and would rather just buy a new one, no matter how minor the defect that made it stop working.
@@georgemartinez1720 Just used a single edge razor blade and a dremel with brass wire wheel. Wiped it down with a lot of acetone and paint thinner to get rid of any residual glue or oil. Scrubbed it with a scotch-brite. Just keep alternating all of those until it was 100% clean.
Be careful of potential interior rust inside the tank on a unit that old. There's a video on YT of one literally exploding inside a guys shop doing serious damage. I got rid of one at least 40 years old passed down from my Dad because of that video.
@@Chris-gc3cm my dad and I ran one older, kept the tank drain valve partially open to drain out any moisture to prevent just such a thing from happening.
Just paid 400 for a 25gsllon craftsman 6.5hp, she fires right up, cuts off on set pressure but will NOT refill, pops breaker, ran a new dedicated 14/3 line on its own 30a to shed (25 foot run, all new electrical, code work) runs, will NOT retire, I think the motor is tired which is odd to me as it's not that old. Previous owner was either a REALLY good liar about never using it, he simply didn't know, or I jumbled something on the way home. Either way, my 10cfm dreams are currently smoked , even after about 400 in electrical work on top. Just stinks, the whole thing. Glad to hear all yalls success! Thar makes me a BIT happier tho.
I bet they're already thinking of a reason to make a new model web-enabled so you can control it by an App. You won't want that feature, but they'll give it to you, and once web enabled, they'll be able to charge you a monthly subscription to use it. They'll also send a software update to break it when it hits 5 years of age, forcing you to buy a new one. They call that an "innovation". Look for it arriving in your stores soon.
i still fix old stuff...been doing it for over 55 years...i repair my own stuff or find stuff others toss away.... usually the older it is ..the better quality it is compared to the cheap crap made nowadays.... i keep in mind the cost but i never find it. exceeds the value of getting it useable in most cases... sometimes i do junk it... parts can be too expensive or time consuming to manufacture... my dad was a handyman and it was normal to just fix it yourself .... and that is still an option... 🇨🇦🤓✌️
3 years without knowing what to do with my compressor because it didn't build up pressure. I am now seeing this video I think you teach me how to attack the problem tanks for sharing from Mexico
This is my kind of repair!! I love to find stuff on the curb and repair it with simple stuff. Good Job. I use to think doing this was a waste but as the years go by I appreciate having the skills and tools. Thanks Dad.
Too funny - I just picked up a compressor for pennies on the dollar that's doing the exact same thing. Never worked on one before, but a friend told me it would probably be either reed(s) or gasket. Just haven't had time to tear into it. Thanks for the vid! Fun fact: I was talking to someone about this issue a few days ago, with my phone on my hip of course, and abracadabra-whim-wham-blam! here's a video in my recommended feed. Yes folks, our tech is listening to us, 24/7.
Thank you. My friend's air compresser quit building pressure just last week. I told him I'd take a look at it. Thanks to you, I know exactly what to look for and I'm betting its the same problem as yours. He had left it out in the weather constantly, including the winter. I stumbled upon this video accidentally and was amazed at how simple the repair was. I'm subscribing !
Good to see someone having a go at repairing something, one thing I would have done, especially as you picked it up from the roadside, was leave it turned on and slowly drained the tank to see if it kicked back in and started to fill again
I found one of those too , I removed the intake filter ,fitted and air hose to an old bbq propane tank converted to a “car fluid evacuator” it makes enough vacuum for all the fluids no problem. Great find
I have this compressor. No issues other than the brutal loudness. I wear hearing protection if I'm going to be within 50ft of it. I added an extended drain with a ball valve and pipe to make draining condensation from the tank easier, which you should do every day of use. I also added a water separator to the output. I'd like to add a thick channeled box to the intake to help with the noise. And maybe a small cheap radiator to remove condensation *before* it goes into the tank. Make sure you change the oil on this compressor of unknown provenance.
When I first kicked this on it was surprisingly quieter than my 33gal oil-less compressor, but maybe that's on track with the difference in motor sizes (1hp vs 1.6hp)
@@BackyardRepairs You can run just the motors to see. Oil-less may be louder simply because anything *with* oil is going to run smoother and thus quieter. I'm assuming a lot of noise comes out of the intake of the compressor. I've known guys who've added a small metal box to the intake to create a channel for the air, which then also creates a maze for the sound to get out.
that was a common failure on those . I bought a bunch of similar craftsman at a clearance place years back that had mostly that gasket blown. none of the had much use on them . I attributed it to not enough torque on the head bolts , thus allowing the gasket to slide over ( from not enough pressure on it from the head bolts
I almost think that the cast-in "ridge" on the bottom of the pump head (likely there to ensure a good gasket seal) actually slowly cuts through the material over time, especially if oil gets to the gasket and softens it. The ridge is probably only there to save machining costs on the head's mating surface to lower product costs.
@@BackyardRepairs I think those bolts loosened up over time (not much of it judging by the shape of the unit) which was the main cause of the failure and the excess material from the mold parting line (called "flash") was a contributing factor.
Nice job fixing the gasket! One thing you really should have been in this video, and any video about old air compressors, is checking the age of the air receiver and examining internally for corrosion. An old compressor may be cheap or free but they are potentially a bomb if the air receiver has any weak spots. Depending on the openings in the air receiver, it may be possible to see internally with the naked eye and a light source, otherwise a borescope through one of the apertures should enable it to be examined. Depending on your needs and what you want to do, it should be possible to source a new or checked air receiver on its own. You can then with the good parts and have your 'own' air compressor that could potentially be better than a ready-made model. As always, safety first. Air may not shock you or explode, but it can still go bang!
That gasket you made is far superior to the original. I personally would have applied some silicone to keep it from creeping like he old one did. Awesome work!!!
Interesting. I have this exact model that I have been planning to replace the gaskets but put it off because we have Kobalt compressors for each vehicle. So when I get more important work done I will do the Craftsman compressor. This video popped up with UA-cam's suggestion list.
have that compressor. had to repair the regulator/dump valve. ended up using zip ties as a 'third hand' to facilitate repair(s). almost thought I'd toss it but a 1/2 dozen zip ties as 'helpers' made the difference ! : )
Great job, I was given a similar scrap compressor last year. Mine needed a new set of piston rings too.. I don't take it up to full pressure as I don't fully trust the condition of the tank..
Well, if he and the previous owner are smart enough, blow the whole thing down after each use through the bottom drain valve and leave that valve open. Storing it in your house is actually a better idea than in a shed due to the house having an HVAC system, especially in an area with a continuous drain dehumidifier like your basement. If you are using it, maybe using it outside from a longer distance. I know a little bit about this kind of maintenance because I grew up using a Rainbow cleaning system, a machine that you set up before vacuuming that uses water that is emptied after each use or when dirty and refilling. Afterward, the machine requires some storage maintenance like removing the water basin, drying the basin, the machine's separator and storing it apart. With the model I grew up with this was essential to keeping the motor in good working order as it had a third bearing between the separator and fan assembly that could corrode and cause a drop in efficiency. and overheating.
My one comment would be before disassembling just take a marker and draw a line from the head to the base marking the plates so you don't have to guess their orientation but I guess since you had a recording you could always go back & review their orientation.
Yes! Use a marker, sharpie, Scratch awl, soapstone, wife's nail polish, anything to show a witness mark! Then line it all up, and you're back in business in no time! Nice air compressor for what you paid (or didn't pay) for it! Thanks for sharing!
This same idea also works on GM pancake distributors like the 4.3L engine used on my 2001 GMC Safari SLE. You make one mark for the original position of the rotor, then another for the position of the rotor when the distributor gear releases from the engine. Then when installing the new distributor just do in reverse starting with the second mark when the distributor released. As long as you have the rotor lined up correctly to the second mark when the distributor seats all the way the rotor should be pointing at the 1st mark. Viola no need to adjust timing. I wish all engines were that easy. This is what we did back in February 2024 and after installing the new distributor the old 4.3L fired right up with no timing problems.
Here's a tip: when filling the tank with air, turn your line pressure off to show zero air in the gauge. You'll find it's much easier to attach the hose to the air chuck.Then turn your pressure gauge valve to your desired pressure.
I have same unit, also salvaged. Problem was loss of air when not in use, restarting every 12 min. I undid all the air line fittings and installed Teflon tape on all the threads. Now when not in operation loss is 60lb. in 12 hours. Narragansett Bay
Now trigger the drain valve and see what comes out.... there may have been standing water in the bottom of the tank... and the tank is rusted out and unsafe...on the inside! Take the drain valve out completely and use an inspection camera to check for the extent and the depth of the rust....
I am always finding trash treasures. Lawn mowers, compressors and solid wood furniture. Easy money for myself in my retirement. Plus keeps me outta the house from my wife !
I do the same. Best find was a curb side electric start lawn mower. Brought home started right up but cut like crap. turned over expecting a very dull blade. Nope new blade installed backwards.. Turned the blade around worked like new.
@@edwinlopez8559 I'm sorry that this offended you. It's a joke. I understand where you are at. I am a widower. My wife would have certainly laughed, so should you.
The key to getting a compressor that has oil crankcase The oil less ones aren't usually worth repairing the bearing in the eye of the connecting rod which is plastic gets hot and breaks because no oil to keep it cooler
I've got a personal 33gal oil-less compressor with a similar problem but it's not unusable yet, just slow to build pressure. I was debating doing a video on that one with a purchased rebuild kit, but there is definitely at lot more to that design like you said
@@BackyardRepairs The oil less one I had was a Campbell Hausfield 2 or 3 gallon I took it apart and diagnosed what happened but the air pump or parts weren't available
How about trying some soapy water sprayed over all fittings first? Also, for torque specs, search for the General Accepted Torque Specsheet. It will give you torques for all common fastenes. One more thing, before disassembly (like another commenter wrote) mark or scratch externals & use marker on internals (if more than two use numbers/letters), if only one, no biggie, but for two mark an end, then mark the middle of the other one. Just food for thought!
Had the same issue with my husky compressor but it was the metal valve pieces in the head that open and close that were rusted and broke. Ordered a set online and was able to fix my compressor. Now I need new regulator valve but since I just use mine for tires and the duster nozzle and not for air tools it works just fine. Tried to make a new valve piece out of metal roofing but it wouldn't build pressure.
Good repair. So much gets thrown away without service attempts but I get it. Some folks just not their thing. I personally get satisfaction tearing down, diagnostics & the fix. 1 thing I do toss is weed eaters. So much cylinder scoring … not interested in them anymore. Unless it’s a very expensive one! Good video. (SUBd)
I REALLY don't think someone would toss an air compressor because of a plastic hose. I do applaud you for going through the disassembly process slowly and explaining what everything does. Good video.
I have a 6 gallon Craftsman pancake air compressor. I wonder if it is a similar motor/engine design? If it is, then this will help if I ever have any issues with it.
You are more brave than I am. The risk of sudden air evacuation is too great for me to trust a 19 year old compressor. I replace my air compressors after about 10 years. I cut holes in the tank so no one can use them again.
Good job, but make sure the tank has no water build up in it, and rust, if that thing explodes it can be deadly, I wouldn't have it in my house, keep it in a outside shed to be extra safe.
It is very true that you should empty out the water, but the chances of it exploding due to rust are very small, it usually just develops pinhole leaks which bleed off the air pressure.
Knowledge of this potential problem i wood run the motor for a few minutes with the drain valve open and wait to feel warm dry air leaving the tank before putting it away. ✅
I typically see if I can fix things without looking it up first, but halfway through I checked the parts list for the air pump gasket set shown at 11:05. But I'm not aware of a Craftsman website that gives instructions for repairs on their products, do you have a link?
Based on the construction of that valve block, I wouldn't want to use anything other than a paper gasket. I would think the RTV could squeeze into the reed area and cause problems when you tighten the head down
The only thing I was told about those kinds of gaskets, was to give them a bit of whatever they are sealing against. Oil or water, just a little bit, to make the fibers swell up and start to incorporate it. That way, the gasket won't have any 'dry' spots which is a weaker area pressure wise. I know that people have told me all these years that "Pressure will push the fluid where it needs to go!" and I just don't believe them. But I have no proof of this helping, but it makes some kind of sense to me.
So, the device you keep calling an engine isn't an engine, it's a positive displacement pump of the reciprocating kind and with the exception of the lubrication system and the fact that it uses a piston, crank, connecting rod and a wrist pin, that's where the similarities end. It uses reed or check valves as opposed to rotary, poppet, sliding or the piston as a valve like you would see in internal and external combustion reciprocating engines. That said, this machine could be converted into a rudimentary internal combustion engine or steam engine like you can convert an internal combustion or steam engine into a pump. Though, in either case it takes a good amount of modification to do so. Onto the next part, these machines are relatively easy to fix and I have two of these in various configurations and my brother has another one that seized up once but I was able to get it running again with time, heat and lubrication. When I owned his before I gave it to him, I had to make a new set of gaskets as it had the problem of spraying oil all over the place. EDIT: I should add that I also used a thin film of RTV silicone between the gaskets and the metal surfaces.
thanks for the explanation! I didn't know all the terms since this was my first compressor repair, the comment section here definitely straightened me out there lol.
Andrew is right I used to work on compressors at a tool repair shop.the air tank needs to be bled of moisture from the bottom, you will see that the compressor no longer has the capacity it used to have because of the water in the tank. Many compressors sold today have self water bleed valves-it’s worth it. A weakened air tank can indeed blow like a bomb. If you or anyone nearby can get killed from flying pieces of the tank. I have seen an air tank laid flat from corrosion failure, it’s no joke. Fortunately the compressor was outside of the building.
It is Not an Engine..it is an Electric Motor powered Air Compressor.... an " Engine " is a Internal Combustion Fuel powered power unit... does it matter? yes and no.... technically yes.. it does if you are trying to educate viewers..it matters... 🇨🇦🤓✌️
@@BackyardRepairs We will listen to every word and try to figure out what the heck...☺️ I am so happy that you did this repair, have the same machine with the same problem and just couldn't throw it away. Searched for a video last year when the compressor failed to build pressure and couldn't find one. Since then have aquired access to 3 other units but my craftsman i bought new and it's nice and small. ✅👌
The gasket may have failed because the spine on the casted head has a very proud line. It appears to have severed the gasket like a knife edge. I may have sanded the head on a very flat surface to increase width of that spine's gasket impression.
1st. trash the cheap yellow hose ! 2nd. find the leak....haven't watched yet. All mine never had air filter. When mine stops building pressure, buy a new Harbor Freight one. I only use Air Compressor when tire pressure gets too low, so not often. Can't justify spending over $150 for Air Compressor. Hate the new low tire pressure stems sensors, 1st cold weather and pressure drops a bit. Wife and daughter think it is a major problem and won't drive !!! Told them , look at the tire is it down, if not, drive. Then I overinflate the tires slightly to compensate for rest of winter !
People also ask Are motor and engine the same? In the early 19th century, the meanings of motor and engine had already begun to converge, both referring to a mechanism providing propulsive force. “The first recorded use of 'engine' to mean an electrical machine driven by a petroleum motor occurs in 1853,” says Fuller. Today, the words are virtually synonymous.
I love your content and I was hoping you can Answer a question for me I did not know you could not mix petroleum-based products in these compressors for cleaning purposes so I used a brake cleaner to adjust one of the babies inside of my 4500 PSI high-pressure air hose for my compressor, And I'm worried now that it has this brake cleaner in it and it might explode, so what would you recommend to use to clean out the brake cleaner fluid that's in my air hose? Lol😂
hey thanks! I'm going to align with John's comment and use some dish soap or degreaser and have the air pressure push it through the line. There's also something to be said in buying a new hose for piece of mind if you think you'll be worrying about it.
I used to have a similar Craftsman compressor. It was trash the day I bought it. Bought a better one, and eventually sold it to a pawn shop. I'm convinced they only offered the scrap value.
99% of stuff made in last 10 years is junk. Just replaced washer AND dryer after 4 years cause of circuit board issues in both. Over $350 to replace in each w/o labor. Ran them til it got too annoying, made it to Labor Day sale. Bought new DUMBER ones !
Nice,easy repair,well explained procedure.
To anyone criticizing terminology,finding trivial faults etc.- This man showed you how to save a machine from landfill,at almost no cost.
This should always be applauded.
Well said!
Someone gave me a Craftsman 20 gallon 3/4 HP compressor from the 1980's, it wouldn't build pressure above 60 psi. I replaced the pressure switch, no change. Took everything apart and it all looked fine, reassembled it, no change. So eventually, after a few months of fiddling around with it and getting nowhere, I spotlessly cleaned up the reed valves and installed a new head gasket and it runs like brand new now. I was blown away at how good it works now. It has no leaks at all, I can leave it on for days and the motor never comes on once to refill itself, until I used it of course. Now all I need to do is give it a new paint job, it sorely needs one. So to everyone out there, don't be afraid to take on the task of rehabbing curb finds, most people are lazy and would rather just buy a new one, no matter how minor the defect that made it stop working.
How did you clean the Reeds
Valves
@@georgemartinez1720 Just used a single edge razor blade and a dremel with brass wire wheel. Wiped it down with a lot of acetone and paint thinner to get rid of any residual glue or oil. Scrubbed it with a scotch-brite. Just keep alternating all of those until it was 100% clean.
Be careful of potential interior rust inside the tank on a unit that old. There's a video on YT of one literally exploding inside a guys shop doing serious damage. I got rid of one at least 40 years old passed down from my Dad because of that video.
@@Chris-gc3cm my dad and I ran one older, kept the tank drain valve partially open to drain out any moisture to prevent just such a thing from happening.
Just paid 400 for a 25gsllon craftsman 6.5hp, she fires right up, cuts off on set pressure but will NOT refill, pops breaker, ran a new dedicated 14/3 line on its own 30a to shed (25 foot run, all new electrical, code work) runs, will NOT retire, I think the motor is tired which is odd to me as it's not that old. Previous owner was either a REALLY good liar about never using it, he simply didn't know, or I jumbled something on the way home. Either way, my 10cfm dreams are currently smoked , even after about 400 in electrical work on top. Just stinks, the whole thing. Glad to hear all yalls success! Thar makes me a BIT happier tho.
Ah, the good O'l days of actually fixing things! Very nice.....
I bet they're already thinking of a reason to make a new model web-enabled so you can control it by an App. You won't want that feature, but they'll give it to you, and once web enabled, they'll be able to charge you a monthly subscription to use it. They'll also send a software update to break it when it hits 5 years of age, forcing you to buy a new one.
They call that an "innovation". Look for it arriving in your stores soon.
i still fix old stuff...been doing it for over 55 years...i repair my own stuff or find stuff others toss away.... usually the older it is ..the better quality it is compared to the cheap crap made nowadays.... i keep in mind the cost but i never find it. exceeds the value of getting it useable in most cases...
sometimes i do junk it... parts can be too expensive or time consuming to manufacture... my dad was a handyman and it was normal to just fix it yourself .... and that is still an option...
🇨🇦🤓✌️
3 years without knowing what to do with my compressor because it didn't build up pressure. I am now seeing this video I think you teach me how to attack the problem tanks for sharing from Mexico
This is my kind of repair!! I love to find stuff on the curb and repair it with simple stuff. Good Job. I use to think doing this was a waste but as the years go by I appreciate having the skills and tools. Thanks Dad.
thanks!
Too funny - I just picked up a compressor for pennies on the dollar that's doing the exact same thing. Never worked on one before, but a friend told me it would probably be either reed(s) or gasket. Just haven't had time to tear into it. Thanks for the vid!
Fun fact: I was talking to someone about this issue a few days ago, with my phone on my hip of course, and abracadabra-whim-wham-blam! here's a video in my recommended feed. Yes folks, our tech is listening to us, 24/7.
Thank you.
My friend's air compresser quit building pressure just last week. I told him I'd take a look at it. Thanks to you, I know exactly what to look for and I'm betting its the same problem as yours. He had left it out in the weather constantly, including the winter. I stumbled upon this video accidentally and was amazed at how simple the repair was.
I'm subscribing !
Good to see someone having a go at repairing something, one thing I would have done, especially as you picked it up from the roadside, was leave it turned on and slowly drained the tank to see if it kicked back in and started to fill again
Awesome trash day find and super cheap fix
... thank you, got the same problem ... with your well made instructional video, I will repair my compressor tomorrow ...
I found one of those too , I removed the intake filter ,fitted and air hose to an old bbq propane tank converted to a “car fluid evacuator” it makes enough vacuum for all the fluids no problem. Great find
Thank you for your excellent video presentation. This will help many fix this problem. It is a good idea to use the tank drain plug regularly.
Nice work, always good to have a small portable compressor around!
thanks!
I have this compressor. No issues other than the brutal loudness. I wear hearing protection if I'm going to be within 50ft of it. I added an extended drain with a ball valve and pipe to make draining condensation from the tank easier, which you should do every day of use. I also added a water separator to the output. I'd like to add a thick channeled box to the intake to help with the noise. And maybe a small cheap radiator to remove condensation *before* it goes into the tank. Make sure you change the oil on this compressor of unknown provenance.
When I first kicked this on it was surprisingly quieter than my 33gal oil-less compressor, but maybe that's on track with the difference in motor sizes (1hp vs 1.6hp)
@@BackyardRepairs You can run just the motors to see. Oil-less may be louder simply because anything *with* oil is going to run smoother and thus quieter. I'm assuming a lot of noise comes out of the intake of the compressor. I've known guys who've added a small metal box to the intake to create a channel for the air, which then also creates a maze for the sound to get out.
that was a common failure on those . I bought a bunch of similar craftsman at a clearance place years back that had mostly that gasket blown. none of the had much use on them . I attributed it to not enough torque on the head bolts , thus allowing the gasket to slide over ( from not enough pressure on it from the head bolts
I almost think that the cast-in "ridge" on the bottom of the pump head (likely there to ensure a good gasket seal) actually slowly cuts through the material over time, especially if oil gets to the gasket and softens it. The ridge is probably only there to save machining costs on the head's mating surface to lower product costs.
@@BackyardRepairs I think those bolts loosened up over time (not much of it judging by the shape of the unit) which was the main cause of the failure and the excess material from the mold parting line (called "flash") was a contributing factor.
Nice job fixing the gasket! One thing you really should have been in this video, and any video about old air compressors, is checking the age of the air receiver and examining internally for corrosion. An old compressor may be cheap or free but they are potentially a bomb if the air receiver has any weak spots. Depending on the openings in the air receiver, it may be possible to see internally with the naked eye and a light source, otherwise a borescope through one of the apertures should enable it to be examined.
Depending on your needs and what you want to do, it should be possible to source a new or checked air receiver on its own. You can then with the good parts and have your 'own' air compressor that could potentially be better than a ready-made model. As always, safety first. Air may not shock you or explode, but it can still go bang!
That gasket you made is far superior to the original. I personally would have applied some silicone to keep it from creeping like he old one did. Awesome work!!!
Bought one at a garage sale for 3$. Fitting between compressor and tank was loose.
Got the exact same one with the exact same problem the other day this vid will save me a little chicken change thanks.
I feel I learn when I watch your videos, your simple comments to answer those questions we often have. Again, Thanks
Interesting. I have this exact model that I have been planning to replace the gaskets but put it off because we have Kobalt compressors for each vehicle. So when I get more important work done I will do the Craftsman compressor. This video popped up with UA-cam's suggestion list.
have that compressor. had to repair the regulator/dump valve.
ended up using zip ties as a 'third hand' to facilitate repair(s).
almost thought I'd toss it but a 1/2 dozen zip ties as 'helpers' made the difference ! : )
Great job, I was given a similar scrap compressor last year. Mine needed a new set of piston rings too.. I don't take it up to full pressure as I don't fully trust the condition of the tank..
Well, if he and the previous owner are smart enough, blow the whole thing down after each use through the bottom drain valve and leave that valve open. Storing it in your house is actually a better idea than in a shed due to the house having an HVAC system, especially in an area with a continuous drain dehumidifier like your basement. If you are using it, maybe using it outside from a longer distance.
I know a little bit about this kind of maintenance because I grew up using a Rainbow cleaning system, a machine that you set up before vacuuming that uses water that is emptied after each use or when dirty and refilling. Afterward, the machine requires some storage maintenance like removing the water basin, drying the basin, the machine's separator and storing it apart. With the model I grew up with this was essential to keeping the motor in good working order as it had a third bearing between the separator and fan assembly that could corrode and cause a drop in efficiency. and overheating.
My one comment would be before disassembling just take a marker and draw a line from the head to the base marking the plates so you don't have to guess their orientation but I guess since you had a recording you could always go back & review their orientation.
Yes! Use a marker, sharpie, Scratch awl, soapstone, wife's nail polish, anything to show a witness mark! Then line it all up, and you're back in business in no time! Nice air compressor for what you paid (or didn't pay) for it! Thanks for sharing!
This same idea also works on GM pancake distributors like the 4.3L engine used on my 2001 GMC Safari SLE. You make one mark for the original position of the rotor, then another for the position of the rotor when the distributor gear releases from the engine. Then when installing the new distributor just do in reverse starting with the second mark when the distributor released. As long as you have the rotor lined up correctly to the second mark when the distributor seats all the way the rotor should be pointing at the 1st mark. Viola no need to adjust timing. I wish all engines were that easy. This is what we did back in February 2024 and after installing the new distributor the old 4.3L fired right up with no timing problems.
Here's a tip: when filling the tank with air, turn your line pressure off to show zero air in the gauge. You'll find it's much easier to attach the hose to the air chuck.Then turn your pressure gauge valve to your desired pressure.
great tip, thanks!
Really nice diagnosis and fix!
Very nice explanation!! Thanks for sharing your analytic process! Saludos from Mexico 🇲🇽
I have same unit, also salvaged. Problem was loss of air when not in use, restarting every 12 min. I undid all the air line fittings and installed Teflon tape on all the threads. Now when not in operation loss is 60lb. in 12 hours. Narragansett Bay
excellent video, like the way you explain your steps and how the compressor fills the tank
Now trigger the drain valve and see what comes out....
there may have been standing water in the bottom of the tank...
and the tank is rusted out and unsafe...on the inside!
Take the drain valve out completely and use an inspection camera to check for the extent and the depth of the rust....
Great point
This was my first thought. A discarded compressor's tank is a potential bomb waiting to explode.
I am always finding trash treasures. Lawn mowers, compressors and solid wood furniture. Easy money for myself in my retirement. Plus keeps me outta the house from my wife !
I do the same. Best find was a curb side electric start lawn mower. Brought home started right up but cut like crap. turned over expecting a very dull blade. Nope new blade installed backwards.. Turned the blade around worked like new.
As a new widow, I find that remark terribly uncouth. There’s nothing I wouldn’t give to get time back with my husband.
@@edwinlopez8559 I'm sorry that this offended you. It's a joke. I understand where you are at. I am a widower. My wife would have certainly laughed, so should you.
The key to getting a compressor that has oil crankcase The oil less ones aren't usually worth repairing the bearing in the eye of the connecting rod which is plastic gets hot and breaks because no oil to keep it cooler
I've got a personal 33gal oil-less compressor with a similar problem but it's not unusable yet, just slow to build pressure. I was debating doing a video on that one with a purchased rebuild kit, but there is definitely at lot more to that design like you said
@@BackyardRepairs The oil less one I had was a Campbell Hausfield 2 or 3 gallon I took it apart and diagnosed what happened but the air pump or parts weren't available
Excellent!!!!! Sure glad I found your channel!
You should make a DVD of this video and put it in the guys mailbox
How about trying some soapy water sprayed over all fittings first?
Also, for torque specs, search for the General Accepted Torque Specsheet. It will give you torques for all common fastenes.
One more thing, before disassembly (like another commenter wrote) mark or scratch externals & use marker on internals (if more than two use numbers/letters), if only one, no biggie, but for two mark an end, then mark the middle of the other one.
Just food for thought!
I was going to suggest that Ivory dish Soap
Yes grease Pencil
@@georgemartinez1720
Yes, Dawn dish soap is good too!
@@georgemartinez1720
Yes, grease pencil, perm marker, soapstone, or whatever works really!
Had the same issue with my husky compressor but it was the metal valve pieces in the head that open and close that were rusted and broke. Ordered a set online and was able to fix my compressor. Now I need new regulator valve but since I just use mine for tires and the duster nozzle and not for air tools it works just fine. Tried to make a new valve piece out of metal roofing but it wouldn't build pressure.
nice fix . you can look up torque ratings for any size bolt . might need to subtract a few lbs if going into aluminum .
Good repair. So much gets thrown away without service attempts but I get it. Some folks just not their thing. I personally get satisfaction tearing down, diagnostics & the fix. 1 thing I do toss is weed eaters. So much cylinder scoring … not interested in them anymore. Unless it’s a very expensive one! Good video. (SUBd)
Nice video... well done!
I REALLY don't think someone would toss an air compressor because of a plastic hose. I do applaud you for going through the disassembly process slowly and explaining what everything does. Good video.
before fixing any air compressor id check inside the tank very well with a scope
DATE MANUFACTURED 09/2007 Right on label dude.
lol yep I fumbled that at the beginning but found it halfway through
What drugs did you use to drug it inside??
😂
🇨🇦🤓✌️
yeah i saw that mfg date too
Excellent job and thanks.
Glad to see you learned some of the proper terms for an air compressor which is not even close to being the same as a gas engine.
I have a 6 gallon Craftsman pancake air compressor. I wonder if it is a similar motor/engine design? If it is, then this will help if I ever have any issues with it.
Crescent wrench is backwards @ 14:20
Good video!
thanks!
Nice job! Great video
09-2007 ,,,,,,,,,,,17 years old wow really nice shape ,,my thinking was is there any water that needs drained ,,and also you found a good one for sure
You are more brave than I am. The risk of sudden air evacuation is too great for me to trust a 19 year old compressor. I replace my air compressors after about 10 years. I cut holes in the tank so no one can use them again.
Good job, but make sure the tank has no water build up in it, and rust, if that thing explodes it can be deadly, I wouldn't have it in my house, keep it in a outside shed to be extra safe.
It is very true that you should empty out the water, but the chances of it exploding due to rust are very small, it usually just develops pinhole leaks which bleed off the air pressure.
@@jimthesoundman8641
17 years of standing water...very thin tank?
@@jimthesoundman8641
17 years of standing water...very thin tank?
Knowledge of this potential problem i wood run the motor for a few minutes with the drain valve open and wait to feel warm dry air leaving the tank before putting it away. ✅
So why didn't you see the craftsman website for the replacement of the gasket
I typically see if I can fix things without looking it up first, but halfway through I checked the parts list for the air pump gasket set shown at 11:05. But I'm not aware of a Craftsman website that gives instructions for repairs on their products, do you have a link?
Can you use oil resistance gasket maker?
Based on the construction of that valve block, I wouldn't want to use anything other than a paper gasket. I would think the RTV could squeeze into the reed area and cause problems when you tighten the head down
20 minutes and a piece of paper. Nice.
Excellent tutorial!
The only thing I was told about those kinds of gaskets, was to give them a bit of whatever they are sealing against. Oil or water, just a little bit, to make the fibers swell up and start to incorporate it. That way, the gasket won't have any 'dry' spots which is a weaker area pressure wise. I know that people have told me all these years that "Pressure will push the fluid where it needs to go!" and I just don't believe them. But I have no proof of this helping, but it makes some kind of sense to me.
That is the same as my Campbell Hausfeld!
I use a 12V trickle charger hooked up to the power cord to test for current using a 12V auto test light.
Great job!
Good educational video, thanks, thumbs up & I subscribed, cheers !
thanks!
You can't buy the reed valves from Craftsman, but I found them on eBay!
So what was the cause of the damage to the gasket, and will it happen again to the new gasket?
So, the device you keep calling an engine isn't an engine, it's a positive displacement pump of the reciprocating kind and with the exception of the lubrication system and the fact that it uses a piston, crank, connecting rod and a wrist pin, that's where the similarities end. It uses reed or check valves as opposed to rotary, poppet, sliding or the piston as a valve like you would see in internal and external combustion reciprocating engines. That said, this machine could be converted into a rudimentary internal combustion engine or steam engine like you can convert an internal combustion or steam engine into a pump. Though, in either case it takes a good amount of modification to do so.
Onto the next part, these machines are relatively easy to fix and I have two of these in various configurations and my brother has another one that seized up once but I was able to get it running again with time, heat and lubrication. When I owned his before I gave it to him, I had to make a new set of gaskets as it had the problem of spraying oil all over the place. EDIT: I should add that I also used a thin film of RTV silicone between the gaskets and the metal surfaces.
thanks for the explanation! I didn't know all the terms since this was my first compressor repair, the comment section here definitely straightened me out there lol.
Good job.
Excellent.
I get all my replacement parts at eReplacement Parts or Genuine Replacement parts for OEM parts for just about all manufacturers
They don't have the right sleeve and ring kit for my speedaire, can't seem to find it anywhere
Judging from the angle of the grab handle, it was manufactured in Sept. of 2007
You had the video to look at which was those parts aligned. Better yet cell phone singles.
Did you drain and check the tank. Those things are like a bomb when weakened by rust.
Na, just start to leak thru the rust holes at the bottom. Water only rusts thru at the bottom.
Andrew is right I used to work on compressors at a tool repair shop.the air tank needs to be bled of moisture from the bottom, you will see that the compressor no longer has the capacity it used to have because of the water in the tank. Many compressors sold today have self water bleed valves-it’s worth it. A weakened air tank can indeed blow like a bomb. If you or anyone nearby can get killed from flying pieces of the tank. I have seen an air tank laid flat from corrosion failure, it’s no joke. Fortunately the compressor was outside of the building.
Engine=fuel. Motor=electricity
Replace the Reed valves & head gaskets, if the cylinder looks ok.
It is Not an Engine..it is an Electric Motor powered Air Compressor.... an " Engine " is a Internal Combustion Fuel powered power unit... does it matter? yes and no....
technically yes.. it does
if you are trying to educate viewers..it matters...
🇨🇦🤓✌️
Subscribed! Good idea making your own gasket. May want to change the oil at some point... it is a commonly overlooked maintenance item.
Nice vid
sadly you could have made a gasket out of a manila file folder and it would work.
Analogy is electric motor drives the air pump
should have just used the actual terms "pump" instead of "engine" lol.. getting a lot of comments on engine vs motor on this one too.
@@BackyardRepairs
We will listen to every word and try to figure out what the heck...☺️
I am so happy that you did this repair, have the same machine with the same problem and just couldn't throw it away. Searched for a video last year when the compressor failed to build pressure and couldn't find one.
Since then have aquired access to 3 other units but my craftsman i bought new and it's nice and small. ✅👌
Hmmm..I think my Bostitch is about to get taken apart..same issue
The HOA. Hates them ear killing compressors
I hate the HOA so its all good!
The gasket may have failed because the spine on the casted head has a very proud line. It appears to have severed the gasket like a knife edge. I may have sanded the head on a very flat surface to increase width of that spine's gasket impression.
Nice. Thanks for sharing 😊. Just subbed to you 😊
1st. trash the cheap yellow hose ! 2nd. find the leak....haven't watched yet. All mine never had air filter. When mine stops building pressure, buy a new Harbor Freight one. I only use Air Compressor when tire pressure gets too low, so not often. Can't justify spending over $150 for Air Compressor. Hate the new low tire pressure stems sensors, 1st cold weather and pressure drops a bit. Wife and daughter think it is a major problem and won't drive !!! Told them , look at the tire is it down, if not, drive. Then I overinflate the tires slightly to compensate for rest of winter !
Great stuff it .muskie would do that
That compressor does not have an engine, it has a motor.
Oxford says today the words are synonymous
People also ask
Are motor and engine the same?
In the early 19th century, the meanings of motor and engine had already begun to converge, both referring to a mechanism providing propulsive force. “The first recorded use of 'engine' to mean an electrical machine driven by a petroleum motor occurs in 1853,” says Fuller. Today, the words are virtually synonymous.
Get a life.
An engine creates power. Hence the old muscle car term power plant. A motor is reliant on external power to run.
Really?
That's all you've got?
Weak.
I love your content and I was hoping you can Answer a question for me I did not know you could not mix petroleum-based products in these compressors for cleaning purposes so I used a brake cleaner to adjust one of the babies inside of my 4500 PSI high-pressure air hose for my compressor, And I'm worried now that it has this brake cleaner in it and it might explode, so what would you recommend to use to clean out the brake cleaner fluid that's in my air hose? Lol😂
Dish washing soap and hot water....
drop it into the end nearest the compressor and blow it through the hose...
hey thanks! I'm going to align with John's comment and use some dish soap or degreaser and have the air pressure push it through the line. There's also something to be said in buying a new hose for piece of mind if you think you'll be worrying about it.
i got a craftman compressor with a 250 psi capacity. but i plug it in and nothing happens.
Before watching my guess is a starting capacitor, now to watch and see if I’m correct
Oh well 😂
lol not a bad guess!
I used to have a similar Craftsman compressor. It was trash the day I bought it. Bought a better one, and eventually sold it to a pawn shop. I'm convinced they only offered the scrap value.
About the only thing these are good for is making a grill for your receiver 😂😂😂😂
I don't think you know what an engine is.
Read valve
Mine seized after about 2 hours of use. Do not buy anything Craftsman. It's not the same quality as we remember from the past..!
Blown head gasket
Its a motor ! And pump ! Not an engine...fan .shroud . Reed valves....
Engine?? It’s an electric motor.
99% of stuff made in last 10 years is junk. Just replaced washer AND dryer after 4 years cause of circuit board issues in both. Over $350 to replace in each w/o labor. Ran them til it got too annoying, made it to Labor Day sale. Bought new DUMBER ones !
Motor
The plate ,s are not the same
That gasket is the problem.
No engine on the thing
Maybe 9/2007?