Just did that, I didn't remove intake manifold which made the job a bit harder but I had less things to disassemble and assemble. Only removed throttle body, removed it from the charge pipe, unbolted from the manifold and that's it, gave enough room to work. Disclaimer to anybody seeing that though - if you want to do it the easier way, follow the video instructions, as I had to rotate the starter and wiggle it out a little bit. Btw. it helped that I have single turbo, I have nothing on that side besides charge pipe in the way so I can say I was doing that job on easy difficulty lol. Thanks for the vid man, it helped me a lot!
I really appreciate you making this video showing everything. So that long bolt holding that starter... that goes in from the back of the car ... GRRR luckily i didn't strip it. But stripped my cheap spanner. The short one came out alright. Fml. Will try again tomorrow
The teeth won’t engage with the flywheel until the starter is activated 🙂 ..but thanks for the video! It confirmed some wiring for me. I just got my engine reinstalled only to find out my starter won’t even click. It’s toast. 😅
Ok there’s a connector under the throttle body that they failed to mention. It sycks. Just take the throttle body off then careful turn it around and that’s the easiest way to disconnect that annoying connector. Also they fail to mention the hose that’s connected to the side of the t body. If you make a video don’t skip over crucial things. It’s just fucked up. I’m sick of seeing it. It could cost people a lot of $.
Spent the money and buy the flexible extra long Ratchet spanner, I didn’t. I tried a flexi ratchet which didn’t fit. Stripped the head of the back bolt and had to drill 1/4” holes down through the top of the starter housing thread, chisel it off and punch the bolt out. Only took 10 mins as I have the equipment but still annoying. Great video
Thanks for the great video. We’re you having long crank issues before the starter died? Once it did die, when you pressed the START button just nothing happens? Thanks
Thanks for this video. It is such a pain to replace starter on BMW. -:/ There is hardly any room to get to the bolts. That charge pipe I'm just want rip it out..ahhh.. but it's done.
Did you reuse your old bolts? I notice on mine the original E12 bolts are not aluminum (they are magnetic and heavyish), which I assume means I can reuse them. I bought a set of aluminum bolts for my starter but they are E14 and definitely aluminum because much lighter and aren't magnetic.
my starter just crapped out on me this week...gonna stick with OEM starter bosch....original one lasted 158k.....should have replaced those intake manifold gaskets while you were in there....JS.
Sorry about that! You gotta be super careful when using the 12 point. I hated doing it in the video but it was the quickest thing for me at the time. E12 is the actual size
For the future, as you already did that, buy low profile e-torx sockets. Not a lot of room to work with but you'll get them with a wobble ratchet not stripping anything lol
Low profile e-torx and wobble ratchet does the job for sure. Not a lot of space but tell me, where in BMW there's a lot of space to work to begin with lol
Can this really be called the "Ultimate Guide" if theres no mention of torque specs, nor the importance of replacing the Aluminum tty bolts. These are literally the two most important aspects of the entire job! Edit: non turbo n54 start bolts are 20Nm with 90° Turbo n54 is 38Nm *REPLACE THOSE BOLTS* these car are notorious for needing a starter every 50K miles; reuse these bolts and you WILL be sawing your starter off due to broken bolts, the next time it has to come off. Viewers: do your research!
Aluminum bolts are fine to reuse for stuff like this IMO. As long as the condition of the heads are fine. It’s holding a starter in, not a rod cap lol. If you really care, yes you can replace it. This was done in a parking lot as a quick unexpected repair so we made due. Thanks for sharing the specs though!
@tunerworld its 100% not fine to re-use...you probably need to research what a torque to yield bolt is. 38Nm is a high level of torque on a bolt that is already past its elastic limit. You can do what you want to your own car, but you're making an "Ultimate guide" for the masses, it'd be better to at least give people a heads up on proper protocol, or at the bare minimum, to refrain from willfully spreading blatant misinformation that will 100% lead to amatuer hour bullshi. If 100 people follow this video, and your advice, I guarantee at LEAST 5 of them will be struggling to get broken bolts out of a spot that a bolt extractor won't fit (especially will be a struggle for some novices who already dont know any better, considering they don't even know the basics of BMW fasteners). Many people daily these cars and dont treat them like beater toys. One-time use bolts have been discussed a million times in the forums and the vast, overwhelming consensus is to replace them as the manual and the science states.
@@Thomas998822 so I reused the bolt and it was perfectly fine. I guess I defied science?! Lol! Car is still running strong. BMW’s engineering is so good that they went thru 12 injector designs and still can’t get it right. I know what torque to yield is. I also am practical and again, reused the bolts no problem. If you really care about the car and want to get new bolts, I’m all for it. The ultimate guide is just titling, I am doing this in a parking lot and not a BMW dealership lol so take it with a grain of salt
@@Thomas998822 and I’ve reused aluminum bolts on many N54’s that are running 200k+ miles no problem. I know others who do everything by the book and their motors grenade after 10k miles. Again, it’s a starter bolt not a rod bolt lol. It’s also a $4,000 daily car. It’s all situational
@tunerworld you seem to be wrapped up in your own head, and you're missing the point. It's not about your specific car, nor the many times you've reused Al bolts... tty bolts definitely don't gain more strength because they're not on a rod cap. These AL bolts are notorious for breaking in all types of applications (it's well documented all over the internet), and THAT'S the point. I can reuse AL bolts too and be 85% sure it's fine, but I spend the extra $5 to be 99.9% sure. Amazon has these starter bolts on next day shipping. This starter bolt is in a terrible spot if it breaks. Again, it's about the 11,000 people watching you... even at 2% chance of failure that's dozens of failures. It's about putting out the proper install details, so everyone knows the risks and how to mitigate them, if they chose. Not everyone will be as lucky, or is as expericend as you may be. I'm not saying you need to be a fkn savior Bentley instructor, nor are you responsible for anyone else.... BUT to willfully misinform people through the comments, comes across as quite self-absorbed. If someone paid you well, to install their starter, and you'd have to fix it if it broke later, would you replace the bolts?!? Guess what, there are a lot of people watching this, doing just that (fixing a starter for their friend). I get that you're doing something in a parking lot, so I'm really not trying to change your mind or bust your bal*s (you've made a very good video)... I'm just putting the correct info out here for people; they can make their own decisions.
Just did that, I didn't remove intake manifold which made the job a bit harder but I had less things to disassemble and assemble. Only removed throttle body, removed it from the charge pipe, unbolted from the manifold and that's it, gave enough room to work. Disclaimer to anybody seeing that though - if you want to do it the easier way, follow the video instructions, as I had to rotate the starter and wiggle it out a little bit. Btw. it helped that I have single turbo, I have nothing on that side besides charge pipe in the way so I can say I was doing that job on easy difficulty lol. Thanks for the vid man, it helped me a lot!
I really appreciate you making this video showing everything. So that long bolt holding that starter... that goes in from the back of the car ... GRRR luckily i didn't strip it. But stripped my cheap spanner. The short one came out alright. Fml. Will try again tomorrow
Of course man! That’s what’s I’m here for
Nice job. Will be doing mine today. Just hope it stays dry. 🙏
The teeth won’t engage with the flywheel until the starter is activated 🙂 ..but thanks for the video! It confirmed some wiring for me. I just got my engine reinstalled only to find out my starter won’t even click. It’s toast. 😅
Ok there’s a connector under the throttle body that they failed to mention. It sycks. Just take the throttle body off then careful turn it around and that’s the easiest way to disconnect that annoying connector. Also they fail to mention the hose that’s connected to the side of the t body. If you make a video don’t skip over crucial things. It’s just fucked up. I’m sick of seeing it. It could cost people a lot of $.
Spent the money and buy the flexible extra long Ratchet spanner, I didn’t. I tried a flexi ratchet which didn’t fit. Stripped the head of the back bolt and had to drill 1/4” holes down through the top of the starter housing thread, chisel it off and punch the bolt out. Only took 10 mins as I have the equipment but still annoying. Great video
Thank you! Yeah it isn’t too expensive either st HF
Thanks for the great video. We’re you having long crank issues before the starter died? Once it did die, when you pressed the START button just nothing happens? Thanks
Exactly! Nothing happened when you pressed the button. I think it did show signs before it happened
Thanks for this video. It is such a pain to replace starter on BMW. -:/ There is hardly any room to get to the bolts. That charge pipe I'm just want rip it out..ahhh.. but it's done.
I tried a 10mm ratchet wrench and I can’t get it. How did you do the back bolt with the charge pipe?
Did you reuse your old bolts? I notice on mine the original E12 bolts are not aluminum (they are magnetic and heavyish), which I assume means I can reuse them. I bought a set of aluminum bolts for my starter but they are E14 and definitely aluminum because much lighter and aren't magnetic.
Yes I did! Use your discretion
Appreciate this, got to replace the one in my 335i
my starter just crapped out on me this week...gonna stick with OEM starter bosch....original one lasted 158k.....should have replaced those intake manifold gaskets while you were in there....JS.
Great tutorial... other than me stripping tf outta my starter bolt by using a 10mm on it😭
Sorry about that! You gotta be super careful when using the 12 point. I hated doing it in the video but it was the quickest thing for me at the time. E12 is the actual size
3/8” fits much tighter. 10mm has a little play
Awesome show 👏..
Stripped the bolt lmao but had to chisel it out 😂 but car starts thanks for video
For the future, as you already did that, buy low profile e-torx sockets. Not a lot of room to work with but you'll get them with a wobble ratchet not stripping anything lol
IT take me all day but not sure I done this Job . so hard to me
never use a 12 point wrench for this. just buy a E-Torx wrench they dont cost much....
Low profile e-torx and wobble ratchet does the job for sure. Not a lot of space but tell me, where in BMW there's a lot of space to work to begin with lol
thank youuuuu
Can this really be called the "Ultimate Guide" if theres no mention of torque specs, nor the importance of replacing the Aluminum tty bolts. These are literally the two most important aspects of the entire job!
Edit: non turbo n54 start bolts are 20Nm with 90°
Turbo n54 is 38Nm
*REPLACE THOSE BOLTS* these car are notorious for needing a starter every 50K miles; reuse these bolts and you WILL be sawing your starter off due to broken bolts, the next time it has to come off.
Viewers: do your research!
Aluminum bolts are fine to reuse for stuff like this IMO. As long as the condition of the heads are fine. It’s holding a starter in, not a rod cap lol. If you really care, yes you can replace it. This was done in a parking lot as a quick unexpected repair so we made due. Thanks for sharing the specs though!
@tunerworld its 100% not fine to re-use...you probably need to research what a torque to yield bolt is. 38Nm is a high level of torque on a bolt that is already past its elastic limit. You can do what you want to your own car, but you're making an "Ultimate guide" for the masses, it'd be better to at least give people a heads up on proper protocol, or at the bare minimum, to refrain from willfully spreading blatant misinformation that will 100% lead to amatuer hour bullshi. If 100 people follow this video, and your advice, I guarantee at LEAST 5 of them will be struggling to get broken bolts out of a spot that a bolt extractor won't fit (especially will be a struggle for some novices who already dont know any better, considering they don't even know the basics of BMW fasteners). Many people daily these cars and dont treat them like beater toys. One-time use bolts have been discussed a million times in the forums and the vast, overwhelming consensus is to replace them as the manual and the science states.
@@Thomas998822 so I reused the bolt and it was perfectly fine. I guess I defied science?! Lol! Car is still running strong. BMW’s engineering is so good that they went thru 12 injector designs and still can’t get it right. I know what torque to yield is. I also am practical and again, reused the bolts no problem. If you really care about the car and want to get new bolts, I’m all for it. The ultimate guide is just titling, I am doing this in a parking lot and not a BMW dealership lol so take it with a grain of salt
@@Thomas998822 and I’ve reused aluminum bolts on many N54’s that are running 200k+ miles no problem. I know others who do everything by the book and their motors grenade after 10k miles. Again, it’s a starter bolt not a rod bolt lol. It’s also a $4,000 daily car. It’s all situational
@tunerworld you seem to be wrapped up in your own head, and you're missing the point. It's not about your specific car, nor the many times you've reused Al bolts... tty bolts definitely don't gain more strength because they're not on a rod cap. These AL bolts are notorious for breaking in all types of applications (it's well documented all over the internet), and THAT'S the point.
I can reuse AL bolts too and be 85% sure it's fine, but I spend the extra $5 to be 99.9% sure. Amazon has these starter bolts on next day shipping. This starter bolt is in a terrible spot if it breaks.
Again, it's about the 11,000 people watching you... even at 2% chance of failure that's dozens of failures. It's about putting out the proper install details, so everyone knows the risks and how to mitigate them, if they chose. Not everyone will be as lucky, or is as expericend as you may be. I'm not saying you need to be a fkn savior Bentley instructor, nor are you responsible for anyone else.... BUT to willfully misinform people through the comments, comes across as quite self-absorbed.
If someone paid you well, to install their starter, and you'd have to fix it if it broke later, would you replace the bolts?!? Guess what, there are a lot of people watching this, doing just that (fixing a starter for their friend).
I get that you're doing something in a parking lot, so I'm really not trying to change your mind or bust your bal*s (you've made a very good video)... I'm just putting the correct info out here for people; they can make their own decisions.
Not terrible people who think this is hard shouldn’t own bmw or Bend over shops
You should go to the gym , you weakling. Thanks for the video :) I shall get this done tomorrow on my shit box
Seeeesesz