This bit had me the most confused, googled Washing Detergent and it thought it was for the washing machine, however the only detergent I know is for the dishes.
recently had a glass installer use this method with silicone he did a fantastic finish I'm going to use this method on a project tomorrow thanks for the video
I learned proper caulking from the pros years ago. You flush cut the tip and push it forward controlling the flow. The flush cut tip produces a concave bead and no need to run your finger along. As a cabinet installer, I've caulked about 300 plus quartz counter tops.
I have to disagree with everything I am afraid. Concave looks messy, unclean but most importantly the thinner edges of a concave a much more prone to get unstuck when regularly cleaned. Also you never cut the nozzle clean and it will always leave tiny scratches. What you are describing is basically half of the job. After what you leave I would put wooden stick with tip cut flat less than width of the bead and run it along. The stick is best kept in cup of fairly strong solution of washing up liquid so it soaks it up and eliminates the need for spray. Resulting in °45 angle nice strong bead with even edges and smooth sheen on top that's easy to clean and last lot longer. I should say I am a mastic man from UK and I have to say I never seen mastic done properly in US so you are not the only one.
@@lipeeno Is "mastic" the same thing as what we in the USA call "caulk?" What shape of stick? Round? Square? Rectangle? Would you use that same "stick" technique after the 45 degree tip cut and "pull smoothly" method shown in the video? Do you always use a "run bead and then smooth with stick" method on every caulk you lay? Seems like the main difference between what you are suggesting and the "finger" method shown in the video is that you keep your finger clean. You say a "wooden stick with tip cut flat less than the width of the bead." Since the bead is maybe 1/4" at most, isn't that a very small stick?
@@TheLarryBrown I would agree with @lipeeno - use some sort of stick (or plastic) that has a straight cut at the end, not a finger. Stick will create a flat seam instead of concave - it will be more durable and easier to clean. Moreover, don’t try to clean up the excess silicone that gets pushed to the sides (then using finger you will most likely have to stop to clean it). Trying to clean the excess will just mess up the whole work, and stops will make the seam inconsistent. So just run the seam with stick holding it at 45 degree angle (the excess will be “cut” off the actual seam material), let it dry and remove the excess when dried, it will come off as silicone ropes pretty easily.
Dish soap like Dawn. Just enough to get a little foaming. I would say half a teaspoon for 16 oz sprayer. You can do the same thing with a bucket of tar for roof patching. Just float about an inch or two of Dawn/water mixture on top of the tar and you can stick your hand in grab a hand full and smear around what you want to seal.
I am going to try this. When doing particular areas where the smallest bead possible is desired, I always use tape. Tape both sides, apply caulk/silicone and remove excess, pull tape and then lightly run wet finger over it in order to press the edges down. I don't do this method always, but some situations you want a very tiny bead but to ensure you have a seal. Tape allows you to push aggressively while minimizing the outside. Works great if you have uneven surfaces too. I like the trick learned in this video and will try, just figured I would share my trick with all.
Genius. I used to stick my index finger in my mouth and use that. Then when it got covered in sealant, middle finger. Then ring finger then pinkie. Great tip.
King! Love people who shows and discribes different methods. The one you like and other populair methods and shows the difference etc. I do it too in my job and that helps alot to tech people stuff and that actually helps it to stick in their head aswell so they dont forgett the tips you give them =)
Practice makes perfect, it's easy for a person that's been doing this a long time, however when they or you start caulking dont be afraid of messing it up, these tips have been around for ever and are perfect for a beginner
Many thanks for the video! I did my first attempt, to silicon the joints between the architraves and tiles in my renovated laundry. It worked great! I did the 45 degree cut, I think it works better because it allows better control of the flow, and you can see better how much you are applying particularly in uneven gaps. If I see you, I'll buy you a drink!
Just about to apply silicone sealant to multiple joints in our new shower room. I’ve been practicing with the sealant and could not get the finish to an acceptable standard. Just tried your method on a test piece and you’d think I knew what I was doing, it’s that good! Thanks so much!
very nicely and simply explained, im just about to do some window frames and never had much joy before getting a nice bead with minimum mess, so hopefully the soapy spray method will help. cheers
anyhoo i did the windows yesterday and the beads ended up perfectly acceptable. maybe not as good as a pro but it passed muster. the only thing i will add is that i still ended up with a bit of a gooey mess in a rag because every time i put the caulking gun down i got some sealent oozing out, which i understand doesnt happen if you get one that 'sucks back' when released, but it's not a job i do everyday so i can live with it and didnt want to buy a pro gun. the other thing was, i think my (garden) spray bottle dispensed a little too much soapy water, but at the end of the day it's all good, and i've finished a job i didnt really want to do lol, so onto the rest of the decorating and a happier wife :)
I love common sense cures. I’ve done this for years with my finger and turned out well. So we’ll that my family thinks I’m a pro and gets me to caulk anything that ever needs it. Privately I hated it though because I had no idea what I was doing! I got a smooth bead (check). I used my finger (check). But that’s where it ends for me and my method. I always had a big mess on my hands and lots of time cleanup and effort. This was a real blessing to me and will save me lots of work and time. Thanks. I’ve subscribed.
Although I've heard this tip before, from my experience, it's important to point out that if the soapy solution gets behind the silicone/caulk (in-between the tile and silicone/caulk) then the soapy solution will prevent the silicone/caulk from adhering to the tile properly. The tried and true method will always be to get a consistent bead and wet your finger then smooth the silicone/caulk. The very important part of that method is to wipe off the excess build up silicone/caulk from your finger before you get too much build up on your finger, wipe it off on a rag and continue down the line. Your tile should always be dry to ensure maximum adhesion.
No kidding. This is horrible advice. Surfactants are bond breakers. The only way to NOT get soap in your joint is to caulk the entire thing and the spray the place down with... why do I even need to explain this 🤦
@@harmonyintegration6612 sounds like you know what your talking about but your comment makes no sense at all… I’m trying to learn and sick of the fairy liquid vs it doesn’t bond please explain yourself more clearly for me 👊
Caulking squares work much better, may not be as easy but no worries on adhesion due to contamination ie washing detergent/soap/windex now the chance of contamination going all the way through to create a leak is probably pretty slim but not one I’m willing to take on someone paying me 10k 20k for a bathroom remodel. Also keep in mind the showers pros are building today are fully waterproof before tile touches the walls. Mildew and mold buildup behind tile is another conversation but you get the point. Just because something is easier doesn’t mean it’s the right way
@@davidc830 fingering of the bead causes the concave. Concave causes thin edges that will get unstuck. Use tools like stick with tip cut flat and little less then the width of the bead or plastic squares. When applied bead wet your finger and press the bead against both surfaces. Itll look messy but don't worry, spray it then with washing up liquid and water mix put your tool of choice on the bead (°45) press firmly and wipe the bead along. As you pressing on it you'll squeeze any left soap between the bead and wall. The soap on top and tool will make straight and clean bead with even edges. Personally like to run finger across the bead to polish tiny scratches from the tool and get some sheen on it as well as to make sure the bead is stuck properly. When you master it you'll be able to apply it 95% perfect with the nozzle and smooth the 5% with a wooden stick
Kudos to you for this time-saving, effective, caulk application hack! You did so without a lot of rambling, silliness, or loud, annoying music.. again, thanks!👍🏼
Hi I just watched your video. And I’ve just done the sealant on my bathroom and toilet floor. It was so easy! The water and dish washing detergent worked a treat. Thank you for making such a helpful video. I’ve never used sealant before. I think it looks great 😊
Useful to put a line of felt tip marker to line where the angle cut is so you always know where the caulk comes out when using in awkward spaces at different angles
Heyyyy. As a novice DIYer, I feel so proud to see your recommendation for using a screw as a cap, as that is exactly what I did several weeks ago with a tube of caulk. I was shocked when I went to use it again and found it still usable. Usually they dry out with a cap or some wrapping around it, and I thought to myself that screw method would be my new go-to. Thanks for your confirmation! And also thanks for the great tip on how to get a nice finish.
Very nice! Good tips! The spray and soapy water and finger is what a tile professional told me too, so you have confirmed the technique you show on your vid
Been doing it that way for years, but recently bought a little set of those finishing tools. It is amazing what a difference 1mm makes to the radius of the shaping curve. The other take home advice, and it applies to everything from puttying to plastering: don’t muck about! If the first pass is 85% good, then leave it and move on. Any attempt to improve it by retouching will only make it worse.
Good advice. My friend who I worked for time to time told me the same of working concrete. I believe the saying that is appropriate for this is "the perfect is the enemy of the good".
That's such a good point about not mucking around. I do it sometimes when shaping my beard, keep trying to get it perfect and even, and end up going overboard and having to shave the whole thing off 🤣
Good tips for DIYers, but as a High-end Residential remodel contractor who doesn't want product to fail and come back to clients, I do things a bit different. We use de-greaser (water/dishsoap) for silicone or any type of oily base caulking. however, don't do this with water-base, which are usually interior painters caulk. The de-greaser can often cause bad adhesion and it isn't as easy to work with. it may look fine for a couple months, but tends to come up around 6months to 1 year later. Rather, water alone is better. We learned this the hard way years back.
@@MStar10 no he's saying, don't use degreaser, dish soap is a degreaser. If you looked into the MSDS of your dish soap you'd find that the chemicals are decreasing agents. The commenter said only use water because the dish soap will cause the caulk to fail to bind properly eventually. True of water based silicone. This you'll have to look at the product.. usually the water based ones will say water based. So in short, do not use soap on water based silicone. Use only water
Great work Bill....one additional tip Is to use disposable baby wipes to clean excess caulk off your finger. Wipes off easy and avoids spreading caulk all over old rags
Amazing, we just repainted our bathrooms and I was about caulk the trim. I'm really happy I watched this video, I have always hated doing caulking, I can't wait to try this out.
I used the screw cap idea for years but recently found wrapping the tip of the nozzle in a piece of cling film works even better with none of the sealant drying out at the tip.
My brother-in-law taught me this technique way back in 1971. He used to manufacture glass fish-tanks, sealed with silicone caulk. This also works with an unrelated product: vinyl cut stickers for sign-making: it allows one to "slip" the letters into exact position. Not exactly a "secret", but it is to many folk!
please dont do that just press a litle silicone out let it be out and dry, next time you are going to use it just grab the litle bit you let out for dry and remove it and voila you made your own seal for youre silicone tube and next time you just leave a litle out again to dry.
That is the best tip ever! Just completed a silicon job in our bathroom, and the finish was perfect. I've always struggled with this job and ended up covered in silicon, but my hands were clean too! Thanks
And totally useless for 9 out of 10 jobs. Cut the 45 on the tip, get a wet rag handy...apply smooth and consistent....wet finger and ease down caulk line at at least a 45 degree angle and stop with the finger as soon as it start to build up on the sides and wipe onto rag.....repeat.....for final wipe....put rag over finger and gently wipe down the caulk line to give a finished consistent look and clean off any that may have been pushed out on to the other surfaces. Practice makes perfect....good luck.
Totally incorrect way to do it...no liquids should be used, it stops the bead edge sticking firmly and always comes off...water creeps down the side of the shower tray and cause big damage to rooms below. Had a lot of work over the years repairing ceilings because of this technique used by "pro's" that never get asked back to their work to see what a mess they made
@@jimw91321 the liquid soap makes it easier to get a clean finish for sure, but it should actually be avoided. What you want is actually a caulking liquid *without* added detergent. These liquids are cheap and works just the same for applications. The big difference is, if you use a detergent on silicone based sealants, it will remove the silicon oil from the outmost layer of the bead, which means as it hardens the outer later will end up slightly more "rubbery" due to there becoming microscopic little pores in the surface. These are not visible however, but over time you will see a difference in that a silicon bead applied with detergent will be more prone to collect dust/dirt (especially visible when using white) and it will make white silicone turn a light yellow after a 8-12 months. Using the proper stuff without detergents will give you a nice smooth bead that will look the same as it did when applied 5-10 even years later.
Excellent, this works very well. As far as preserving the rest of the tube, just clean out the end of the tip- maybe a 1/4 inch or so and then melt some candle wax in it. The wax is easily dug out with a screw and just like jam or jelly it's preserved.
The problem with this method is, it's great if you have lots of experiance. I would recommend Diy'rs to use the masking method, which guarantees perfect results, even if it is your first time. Just mask off both sides of where you need your silicone, with a gap in the centre about 6mm, apply the filler to the gap, wet your finger, and wipe across it when finished just like in this video, making sure that the silicon has filled the gap completely, then remove the tape as soon as you have finished, job done, perfect edges,
Agreed. The masking tape method will leave a slight ridge the thickness of the tape though, so I suggest as a final step after removing the tape is to wet your finger and light swipe over the silicone one more time to smooth it perfectly.
Excellent video! I just used the soapy water on my finger and it all worked perfectly! Thanks for this “to the point” video guide with no mucking about and without having to listen to someone so full of themselves and waffling on for half an hour. 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
@Billshowto instead of the screw in the end I use those little memory foam earbud things, cut one in half and squash down then twist into the hole. Works pretty well.
I’ve always smoothed out the caulking by running my finger in the reverse direction it was applied, it makes a big difference than running your finger in the same direction it was applied.
Nice trick. When I painted for a living I would hold a wet finger just behind the nozzle as I ran down the seam, squeezing out the caulk and smoothing it all in one go, instead of two steps. Easier to do on shorter runs, but even longer ones got easier over time
great video, simple and straight to the point... these last few days i've been finding courage to apply new silicone in my shower, and this video was a great help!
I love your channel! I have learned so much. I fixed my sliding glass door yesterday after watching your video about it. No more sticking! I would like to see how you would caulk or silicone a drop in cast iron sink that isn’t sitting level on the countertop. Thanks!
Thanks for the tips. I was always taught that the best caulk job is the one you can't see. So I would always use a damp cloth and wipe all that excess caulk away. That way the joint is completely filled and if you used clear or a color match you would never even see it and it makes it easier to clean if it's like in a shower or other wet area that builds up mold and mildew
Nice tip the sudsy water - have been using acetone on silicone for years. Happy to see you chasing it with your finger to push it into the joint - not just laying the bead on top of the joint. Nice video Mate!
The best method by far is wire nuts, it will create a perfect seal and very practical. You have to use the right size for the nozzle application, you will never use anything else.
I am letting a window dry after finishing it and just came across your video didnt inow about cutting the tip but its very usefull on the other hand I did exactly what you did in the last part used detergent on my finger and whater and swiped , it works like a charm thank you
Surely the non-stick coating before the final finger spread invisibly leaves the edge of the strip less well stuck to the wall on both sides and will lead to early edge peeling?
The second half of your good bead was not in contact with the tile before you wet the area. The water will stop it sticking where you want it to. The joint will leak and mould will grow. The bead needs to be stuck to the surface before the spray is applied.
Have to agree with Ramino Man. After applying the silicone you must make sure it is in contact with both surfaces before you spray. The bead applied here will fail! Showers will leak. This guy really doesn't know how to apply silicone.
A pro sealant applicator would use nothing but an angled nozzle, a pro would apply a fillet of silicone to a joint like that and it wouldn't need touching. As some one said your effort was not good as soon as you spray a joint like yours it would not stick! Wet the tool don't spray , better still don't don't touch it.
Bill, Great video but i have an issue with the anti-stick washing up liquid application. Basically, it stops the silicone sticking to the tile - which is what you are wanting it to do. However, where you've imperfectly applied the bead, there will be areas where there is no silicone. So, you run along with you finger attempting to correct this, thus pushing the silicone over the anti-stick liquid. Guess what? The silicone that you've smeared over the bare imperfections will not stick to the tile - though the result looks good. :) This will most likely mean fungus growing behind those parts, or at least there be no silicone adhesion. I cannot see that I'm wrong here. :) But I'll leave you to do things your way.. Regards.
Ray Gee : I agree. Don’t spray. I dip my finger in the solution and run it along the bead of silicone. Just be careful to repeat the dipping process from time to time if the section of silicone is long. Alternatively, you could use saliva 😳.
This was my thought exactly....losing adhesion if damp or soapy. However, where the final finger wiped bead is smaller than the extruded bead, this may not be a problem, because the silicone already had intimate contact to the surface before any liquid made contact. On the other hand, when the finger compressed bead is wider because it expands onto wet surface, the borders in my opinion will lack bond and adhesion, and be prone to leakage and all that goes with that.
I have seen someone use a sponge when caulking. It's quick to get the excess out and leaves a smooth, even line. But as a professional painter, we would carry a wet rag when caulking and cover the finger when wiping. Keeping the fingers clean is important so as not to leave a thin film on each side of the caulk line. A rag is better than the finger alone.
I use my finger, then wipe my finger on the wet rag. Then lightly go over the joint with a damp sponge for final clean up. Just like you would do on grout joints. No brainer. I have found that using a rag doesn't leave a smooth surface. Everyone has their own way of doing things. Which is cool. But after decades of not using a sponge for this. I felt like a dork once I tried it. It's so easy and fast.
I'm hardly a pro, but I'm a stickler for straight lines. I always use painter's tape above and below the line to be caulked; apply the caulk, pull my finger through it until it's even, then remove the tape and pull my finger lightly across it again. It may be silly, but I always get a perfect line every time.
you may have nice straight lines that look very neat and tidy but you will also have a concave bead that is extremely thin at point of contact with tile and tray/bath. This will soon lose contact from minimal cleaning and give access to water and soap and shortly to mould.
I've done the painters tape method a couple times looks nice but never seems to last as long as it would if you didnt. I have a tool I use now that allows you to make the bead into the shape you want and scrapes up the excess
I was so glad you used your finger Bill. Best caulking tools available the fingers. Tiny, clean consistent bead, all the way up to a fat bead, all on one hand 👌
The other thing that works very well is an ammonia-free foaming window cleaner. They are available in spray cans. This is a very useful video and the demonstrated technique that most professional installers of glass shower enclosures and solid surface countertops use.
I was quite worried about siliconing around my worktops. Never done it before, so definitely a novice.After watching your video, I’m very confident at giving it ago. Thankyou 🙌
Dish washing detergent 👍
thanks
That’s Wet Tooling Flim flam that would get any real caulker FIRED back in my day!
@@toecutter1015 why?
This bit had me the most confused, googled Washing Detergent and it thought it was for the washing machine, however the only detergent I know is for the dishes.
No bill
ua-cam.com/video/kwhwrUyJDtk/v-deo.htmlsi=raQ3yPgum7tw0AYV
recently had a glass installer use this method with silicone he did a fantastic finish I'm going to use this method on a project tomorrow thanks for the video
I learned proper caulking from the pros years ago. You flush cut the tip and push it forward controlling the flow. The flush cut tip produces a concave bead and no need to run your finger along. As a cabinet installer, I've caulked about 300 plus quartz counter tops.
You are exactly right. No need to get your fingers in it at all.
I have to disagree with everything I am afraid. Concave looks messy, unclean but most importantly the thinner edges of a concave a much more prone to get unstuck when regularly cleaned. Also you never cut the nozzle clean and it will always leave tiny scratches. What you are describing is basically half of the job. After what you leave I would put wooden stick with tip cut flat less than width of the bead and run it along. The stick is best kept in cup of fairly strong solution of washing up liquid so it soaks it up and eliminates the need for spray. Resulting in °45 angle nice strong bead with even edges and smooth sheen on top that's easy to clean and last lot longer. I should say I am a mastic man from UK and I have to say I never seen mastic done properly in US so you are not the only one.
@@lipeeno Is "mastic" the same thing as what we in the USA call "caulk?" What shape of stick? Round? Square? Rectangle? Would you use that same "stick" technique after the 45 degree tip cut and "pull smoothly" method shown in the video? Do you always use a "run bead and then smooth with stick" method on every caulk you lay? Seems like the main difference between what you are suggesting and the "finger" method shown in the video is that you keep your finger clean. You say a "wooden stick with tip cut flat less than the width of the bead." Since the bead is maybe 1/4" at most, isn't that a very small stick?
@@TheLarryBrown I would agree with @lipeeno - use some sort of stick (or plastic) that has a straight cut at the end, not a finger. Stick will create a flat seam instead of concave - it will be more durable and easier to clean. Moreover, don’t try to clean up the excess silicone that gets pushed to the sides (then using finger you will most likely have to stop to clean it). Trying to clean the excess will just mess up the whole work, and stops will make the seam inconsistent. So just run the seam with stick holding it at 45 degree angle (the excess will be “cut” off the actual seam material), let it dry and remove the excess when dried, it will come off as silicone ropes pretty easily.
love using my fingers tho
The tip about soap and water is genius! Wish I thought of that all these years I have been caulking my home projects.
Does he mean washing up liquid?? 🤔 And water..... He says washing detergent
Dish soap like Dawn. Just enough to get a little foaming. I would say half a teaspoon for 16 oz sprayer.
You can do the same thing with a bucket of tar for roof patching.
Just float about an inch or two of Dawn/water mixture on top of the tar and you can stick
your hand in grab a hand full and smear around what you want to seal.
I am going to try this. When doing particular areas where the smallest bead possible is desired, I always use tape. Tape both sides, apply caulk/silicone and remove excess, pull tape and then lightly run wet finger over it in order to press the edges down. I don't do this method always, but some situations you want a very tiny bead but to ensure you have a seal. Tape allows you to push aggressively while minimizing the outside. Works great if you have uneven surfaces too. I like the trick learned in this video and will try, just figured I would share my trick with all.
I been doing this for 23 years & I approve this method.
there is a other bettter way to finish the silicone sealant by using the caulking tool, if you need, we provide you for free to try.
Genius. I used to stick my index finger in my mouth and use that. Then when it got covered in sealant, middle finger. Then ring finger then pinkie. Great tip.
I still do this on small bits that i cant be bothered to go and get a spray. wors a charm.
Why not just wear gloves?
Next step is wiping it all on your trousers 😄
Using your finger with some spit helps mould grow faster on the silicone.
This is exactly what my late grandpa did. Even the washing detergent as non-stick agent. Thank you for reminding me about him.
Is washing detergent dish soap or laundry soap?
I would love to know too. We don’t use that term in America. Thanks!
King!
Love people who shows and discribes different methods. The one you like and other populair methods and shows the difference etc. I do it too in my job and that helps alot to tech people stuff and that actually helps it to stick in their head aswell so they dont forgett the tips you give them =)
Practice makes perfect, it's easy for a person that's been doing this a long time, however when they or you start caulking dont be afraid of messing it up, these tips have been around for ever and are perfect for a beginner
Many thanks for the video!
I did my first attempt, to silicon the joints between the architraves and tiles in my renovated laundry.
It worked great!
I did the 45 degree cut, I think it works better because it allows better control of the flow, and you can see better how much you are applying particularly in uneven gaps.
If I see you, I'll buy you a drink!
Just about to apply silicone sealant to multiple joints in our new shower room. I’ve been practicing with the sealant and could not get the finish to an acceptable standard. Just tried your method on a test piece and you’d think I knew what I was doing, it’s that good! Thanks so much!
very nicely and simply explained, im just about to do some window frames and never had much joy before getting a nice bead with minimum mess, so hopefully the soapy spray method will help. cheers
👍👍👍
anyhoo i did the windows yesterday and the beads ended up perfectly acceptable. maybe not as good as a pro but it passed muster. the only thing i will add is that i still ended up with a bit of a gooey mess in a rag because every time i put the caulking gun down i got some sealent oozing out, which i understand doesnt happen if you get one that 'sucks back' when released, but it's not a job i do everyday so i can live with it and didnt want to buy a pro gun. the other thing was, i think my (garden) spray bottle dispensed a little too much soapy water, but at the end of the day it's all good, and i've finished a job i didnt really want to do lol, so onto the rest of the decorating and a happier wife :)
I love common sense cures. I’ve done this for years with my finger and turned out well. So we’ll that my family thinks I’m a pro and gets me to caulk anything that ever needs it. Privately I hated it though because I had no idea what I was doing! I got a smooth bead (check). I used my finger (check). But that’s where it ends for me and my method. I always had a big mess on my hands and lots of time cleanup and effort. This was a real blessing to me and will save me lots of work and time. Thanks. I’ve subscribed.
Thank you sir… I spent an inordinate amount of time applying expensive painters tape before doing the silicone! This is a much easier method
Although I've heard this tip before, from my experience, it's important to point out that if the soapy solution gets behind the silicone/caulk (in-between the tile and silicone/caulk) then the soapy solution will prevent the silicone/caulk from adhering to the tile properly. The tried and true method will always be to get a consistent bead and wet your finger then smooth the silicone/caulk. The very important part of that method is to wipe off the excess build up silicone/caulk from your finger before you get too much build up on your finger, wipe it off on a rag and continue down the line. Your tile should always be dry to ensure maximum adhesion.
No kidding. This is horrible advice. Surfactants are bond breakers. The only way to NOT get soap in your joint is to caulk the entire thing and the spray the place down with... why do I even need to explain this 🤦
@@harmonyintegration6612 sounds like you know what your talking about but your comment makes no sense at all… I’m trying to learn and sick of the fairy liquid vs it doesn’t bond please explain yourself more clearly for me 👊
Caulking squares work much better, may not be as easy but no worries on adhesion due to contamination ie washing detergent/soap/windex now the chance of contamination going all the way through to create a leak is probably pretty slim but not one I’m willing to take on someone paying me 10k 20k for a bathroom remodel. Also keep in mind the showers pros are building today are fully waterproof before tile touches the walls. Mildew and mold buildup behind tile is another conversation but you get the point. Just because something is easier doesn’t mean it’s the right way
@@davidc830 fingering of the bead causes the concave. Concave causes thin edges that will get unstuck. Use tools like stick with tip cut flat and little less then the width of the bead or plastic squares. When applied bead wet your finger and press the bead against both surfaces. Itll look messy but don't worry, spray it then with washing up liquid and water mix put your tool of choice on the bead (°45) press firmly and wipe the bead along. As you pressing on it you'll squeeze any left soap between the bead and wall. The soap on top and tool will make straight and clean bead with even edges. Personally like to run finger across the bead to polish tiny scratches from the tool and get some sheen on it as well as to make sure the bead is stuck properly. When you master it you'll be able to apply it 95% perfect with the nozzle and smooth the 5% with a wooden stick
@@davidc830 look at Charlie diyte to find out how to do it properly
Kudos to you for this time-saving, effective, caulk application hack! You did so without a lot of rambling, silliness, or loud, annoying music.. again, thanks!👍🏼
👍
Hi I just watched your video. And I’ve just done the sealant on my bathroom and toilet floor. It was so easy! The water and dish washing detergent worked a treat. Thank you for making such a helpful video. I’ve never used sealant before. I think it looks great 😊
Ace tip... I used this method for decades at work... TY for sharing Mate.
Useful to put a line of felt tip marker to line where the angle cut is so you always know where the caulk comes out when using in awkward spaces at different angles
Heyyyy. As a novice DIYer, I feel so proud to see your recommendation for using a screw as a cap, as that is exactly what I did several weeks ago with a tube of caulk. I was shocked when I went to use it again and found it still usable. Usually they dry out with a cap or some wrapping around it, and I thought to myself that screw method would be my new go-to. Thanks for your confirmation! And also thanks for the great tip on how to get a nice finish.
Very nice! Good tips! The spray and soapy water and finger is what a tile professional told me too, so you have confirmed the technique you show on your vid
Wow. And having soap and water with a spray bottle is genius. 1st time I seen this. Thank you
Been doing it that way for years, but recently bought a little set of those finishing tools. It is amazing what a difference 1mm makes to the radius of the shaping curve. The other take home advice, and it applies to everything from puttying to plastering: don’t muck about! If the first pass is 85% good, then leave it and move on. Any attempt to improve it by retouching will only make it worse.
Good advice. My friend who I worked for time to time told me the same of working concrete. I believe the saying that is appropriate for this is "the perfect is the enemy of the good".
Old saying ...If it looks good ..it is good ..then leave it alone 😊
That's such a good point about not mucking around. I do it sometimes when shaping my beard, keep trying to get it perfect and even, and end up going overboard and having to shave the whole thing off 🤣
thanks. I always try to go back and correct errors but it just causes a chain reaction of more and more fixes. 85% is a good rule.
So true. Every time I’ve ever tried to make my caulk or silicon look better always ends up looking worse.
I spend so much money on caulking tools. that is the best video. Thanks
Good tips for DIYers, but as a High-end Residential remodel contractor who doesn't want product to fail and come back to clients, I do things a bit different.
We use de-greaser (water/dishsoap) for silicone or any type of oily base caulking.
however, don't do this with water-base, which are usually interior painters caulk. The de-greaser can often cause bad adhesion and it isn't as easy to work with. it may look fine for a couple months, but tends to come up around 6months to 1 year later. Rather, water alone is better.
We learned this the hard way years back.
Great insight.. So are you saying use water or this special degreaser? Can you post link to this degreaser pls?
@@MStar10 no he's saying, don't use degreaser, dish soap is a degreaser.
If you looked into the MSDS of your dish soap you'd find that the chemicals are decreasing agents.
The commenter said only use water because the dish soap will cause the caulk to fail to bind properly eventually.
True of water based silicone.
This you'll have to look at the product.. usually the water based ones will say water based.
So in short, do not use soap on water based silicone.
Use only water
@@devarmont87 Thanks so much for clarifying and providing details - this helps a lot!
Great work Bill....one additional tip
Is to use disposable baby wipes to clean excess caulk off your finger. Wipes off easy and avoids spreading caulk all over old rags
Amazing, we just repainted our bathrooms and I was about caulk the trim. I'm really happy I watched this video, I have always hated doing caulking, I can't wait to try this out.
Use the detergent but instead of using finger use paddle pop stick.
@@regwright1716Does not work in tight areas and tight corners.
Awesome tips, especially putting a screw in the top of the nozzle, thanks
I used the screw cap idea for years but recently found wrapping the tip of the nozzle in a piece of cling film works even better with none of the sealant drying out at the tip.
I'll give it a try. 🙂
Hot glue is best
Good vid. From years of (sometimes painful) experience I managed to find all those techniques except the water/detergent spray bit. Thanks.
My brother-in-law taught me this technique way back in 1971.
He used to manufacture glass fish-tanks, sealed with silicone caulk.
This also works with an unrelated product: vinyl cut stickers for sign-making: it allows one to "slip" the letters into exact position.
Not exactly a "secret", but it is to many folk!
I want to take the time to thank you for showing us do-it-yourselfers how to apply a perfect bead of caulking like the pros. 👍
Great tips…. The screw on the nozzle to preserve the caulking is particularly helpful for me
please dont do that just press a litle silicone out let it be out and dry, next time you are going to use it just grab the litle bit you let out for dry and remove it and voila you made your own seal for youre silicone tube and next time you just leave a litle out again to dry.
That is the best tip ever! Just completed a silicon job in our bathroom, and the finish was perfect. I've always struggled with this job and ended up covered in silicon, but my hands were clean too! Thanks
The Soapy Water and the screw in the Tip are both mind-blowing.
Very useful, thanks for making and posting this video. I need to re-calk silicon on a shower pan, sort of dreading the task, but this video helps.
Tried the spray routine and it worked perfectly! Used dishwashing solution (Dove) cuz’ all we have is pods for the washer.
fast and clear instructions, very easy to follow. Thanks a lot.
Absolutely brilliant. I have been looking for this advice for years and I've finally found it.
That is the easiest way that I ever see and you have a clean job and nothing sticks to your finger genius idea that you have nice
This couldn't be more perfect for someone who's never done this before. Really useful and easy to remember.
CAULK
update???
And totally useless for 9 out of 10 jobs.
Cut the 45 on the tip, get a wet rag handy...apply smooth and consistent....wet finger and ease down caulk line at at least a 45 degree angle and stop with the finger as soon as it start to build up on the sides and wipe onto rag.....repeat.....for final wipe....put rag over finger and gently wipe down the caulk line to give a finished consistent look and clean off any that may have been pushed out on to the other surfaces. Practice makes perfect....good luck.
Totally incorrect way to do it...no liquids should be used, it stops the bead edge sticking firmly and always comes off...water creeps down the side of the shower tray and cause big damage to rooms below. Had a lot of work over the years repairing ceilings because of this technique used by "pro's" that never get asked back to their work to see what a mess they made
We just bought a fixer upper house and Bill, you are saving our life mate. Absolutely top stuff, thank you!
You’re very welcome 👍
I'm 43 and been doing any and everything in 🏠 improvement and building and this is the most simple and amazing tip/trick I've seen to date ... thx
I agree! Been a dir’er for many years, never knew the liquid soap trick!
@@jimw91321 the liquid soap makes it easier to get a clean finish for sure, but it should actually be avoided. What you want is actually a caulking liquid *without* added detergent. These liquids are cheap and works just the same for applications. The big difference is, if you use a detergent on silicone based sealants, it will remove the silicon oil from the outmost layer of the bead, which means as it hardens the outer later will end up slightly more "rubbery" due to there becoming microscopic little pores in the surface. These are not visible however, but over time you will see a difference in that a silicon bead applied with detergent will be more prone to collect dust/dirt (especially visible when using white) and it will make white silicone turn a light yellow after a 8-12 months. Using the proper stuff without detergents will give you a nice smooth bead that will look the same as it did when applied 5-10 even years later.
Thanks. Just refurbishing my kitchen. Done a bit of caulking before, but this is helpful.
Simple, to the point and mighty helpful. Thanks mate!
Excellent, this works very well. As far as preserving the rest of the tube, just clean out the end of the tip- maybe a 1/4 inch or so and then melt some candle wax in it. The wax is easily dug out with a screw and just like jam or jelly it's preserved.
The problem with this method is, it's great if you have lots of experiance. I would recommend Diy'rs to use the masking method, which guarantees perfect results, even if it is your first time. Just mask off both sides of where you need your silicone, with a gap in the centre about 6mm, apply the filler to the gap, wet your finger, and wipe across it when finished just like in this video, making sure that the silicon has filled the gap completely, then remove the tape as soon as you have finished, job done, perfect edges,
Agreed. The masking tape method will leave a slight ridge the thickness of the tape though, so I suggest as a final step after removing the tape is to wet your finger and light swipe over the silicone one more time to smooth it perfectly.
Thanks!
you just changed my life. Thank you very much brother!!
Simple, clear and really helpful. Love your energy. THANKS!
Excellent video! I just used the soapy water on my finger and it all worked perfectly!
Thanks for this “to the point” video guide with no mucking about and without having to listen to someone so full of themselves and waffling on for half an hour.
👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
@Billshowto instead of the screw in the end I use those little memory foam earbud things, cut one in half and squash down then twist into the hole. Works pretty well.
You are a born teacher mate the boss is gonna be happy with me, you legend
Pretty good, I recommend a set of silicone finishing profiles from you local diy store, about a tenner.
Me too, but you have to remember to spray the tool for best outcomes.
@@andrewdrummond8576 good point, will that!
@@andrewdrummond8576 spray with just water or this mixture?
Love that water+detergent trick, which makes perfect sense to reduce drag, cheers mate.
I’ve always smoothed out the caulking by running my finger in the reverse direction it was applied, it makes a big difference than running your finger in the same direction it was applied.
thank you so much, so simple but helpful
Thanks. Bit of soapy water works very nicely indeed. Nice n clean
E X C E L L E N T ! Nice job indeed, clear how-to / show-and-tell tips in a 5.5 min. video. Much appreciated.
My caulking skills are pretty average but just finished a small job in the laundry using your method and it worked a treat. Thanks heaps!
Nice trick. When I painted for a living I would hold a wet finger just behind the nozzle as I ran down the seam, squeezing out the caulk and smoothing it all in one go, instead of two steps. Easier to do on shorter runs, but even longer ones got easier over time
that's exactly the way I do it and it comes out perfect.
Holy crap - that's like magic! I'm inspired to go re-seal the kitchen after a sorry-looking attempt last year.
Doing that final smoothing with a finger is such a satisfying way to finish the job 🙂
My misses agrees with you my friend. 😎
fantastic ,i learned a lot hello from Newzealand great British accent😀
great video, simple and straight to the point... these last few days i've been finding courage to apply new silicone in my shower, and this video was a great help!
You’re welcome 👍
I love your channel! I have learned so much. I fixed my sliding glass door yesterday after watching your video about it. No more sticking! I would like to see how you would caulk or silicone a drop in cast iron sink that isn’t sitting level on the countertop. Thanks!
You’re very welcome 👍👍👍
Thanks for the tips. I was always taught that the best caulk job is the one you can't see. So I would always use a damp cloth and wipe all that excess caulk away. That way the joint is completely filled and if you used clear or a color match you would never even see it and it makes it easier to clean if it's like in a shower or other wet area that builds up mold and mildew
Nice tip the sudsy water - have been using acetone on silicone for years. Happy to see you chasing it with your finger to push it into the joint - not just laying the bead on top of the joint. Nice video Mate!
Thank you Bill! I was clueless, but your easy to follow steps made my job look professional.
Glad I could help and you enjoyed the video 👍👍
The screw in tip of the nozzle trick been doing that for over 40 years. Great vid again
Fab! Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you. 😊
EXCELLENT VIDEO. Thank you so much for your time and for sharing your "secrets". 🙂
Mate youre a legend! You make this job alot so easy!
I came to this cool clip of tips after I knew that I did a horrible job but I will definitely try your technique brother, wish me luck & thank you
That is fantasstic sharing - I've never done this before and now feel more confident using your method. Thank you
Thank you Bill. For me, you are the best teacher! I learned a lot from you. Thank you.
You’re welcome 👍
Use the "finger" from the acrylic glove over to seal the calk and tie off with rubber band. Seals better than a screw or use both.
The best method by far is wire nuts, it will create a perfect seal and very practical. You have to use the right size for the nozzle application, you will never use anything else.
@@willoughby1888 Another arrow in the quiver. I just drop the wire nut in my pocket and when I'm done caulking it's right there.
Thanks very much for the quick, informative video
Your jerky section looked better than most of my finished beads. 😂
I am letting a window dry after finishing it and just came across your video didnt inow about cutting the tip but its very usefull on the other hand I did exactly what you did in the last part used detergent on my finger and whater and swiped , it works like a charm thank you
Finally,.... Something I can work with!
Omg thank u. This worked so well .. could never get a straight line without all the caulk sticking all over the place
Surely the non-stick coating before the final finger spread invisibly leaves the edge of the strip less well stuck to the wall on both sides and will lead to early edge peeling?
You've been paid by the time it lifts 😂
@@wood1988 This aspect begs for a response from the OP yet there is none.
he agrees: ua-cam.com/video/_DI4hfHM_Hg/v-deo.html
Good idea I always use the damp sponge technique. Works well also .
The second half of your good bead was not in contact with the tile before you wet the area. The water will stop it sticking where you want it to. The joint will leak and mould will grow. The bead needs to be stuck to the surface before the spray is applied.
Have to agree with Ramino Man. After applying the silicone you must make sure it is in contact with both surfaces before you spray. The bead applied here will fail! Showers will leak. This guy really doesn't know how to apply silicone.
A pro sealant applicator would use nothing but an angled nozzle, a pro would apply a fillet of silicone to a joint like that and it wouldn't need touching. As some one said your effort was not good as soon as you spray a joint like yours it would not stick!
Wet the tool don't spray , better still don't don't touch it.
Agreed, air gap, soapy water underneath, failed adhesion. I came here looking for expert demonstrations.
Look at the anonymous cowards who are criticizing you from behind their Grandmother's keyboard!
Utterly pathetic retarded infants.
I figured that was part of the “or if you know nothing at all” (something like that). So even if you fuck up, the pray will just make it look nice.
Bill is very nice to help us homeowners! Please donate appropriately. We did :)
Glad I could help , thank you 👍
Bill,
Great video but i have an issue with the anti-stick washing up liquid application. Basically, it stops the silicone sticking to the tile - which is what you are wanting it to do. However, where you've imperfectly applied the bead, there will be areas where there is no silicone. So, you run along with you finger attempting to correct this, thus pushing the silicone over the anti-stick liquid. Guess what? The silicone that you've smeared over the bare imperfections will not stick to the tile - though the result looks good. :) This will most likely mean fungus growing behind those parts, or at least there be no silicone adhesion. I cannot see that I'm wrong here. :) But I'll leave you to do things your way.. Regards.
Ray Gee : I agree. Don’t spray. I dip my finger in the solution and run it along the bead of silicone. Just be careful to repeat the dipping process from time to time if the section of silicone is long. Alternatively, you could use saliva 😳.
why not try the caulking sealant tool for free ?
This was my thought exactly....losing adhesion if damp or soapy. However, where the final finger wiped bead is smaller than the extruded bead, this may not be a problem, because the silicone already had intimate contact to the surface before any liquid made contact. On the other hand, when the finger compressed bead is wider because it expands onto wet surface, the borders in my opinion will lack bond and adhesion, and be prone to leakage and all that goes with that.
Worked like a charm. The key was spraying the soapy water on the new caulk and finger before spreading.
I have seen someone use a sponge when caulking. It's quick to get the excess out and leaves a smooth, even line. But as a professional painter, we would carry a wet rag when caulking and cover the finger when wiping. Keeping the fingers clean is important so as not to leave a thin film on each side of the caulk line. A rag is better than the finger alone.
why not try the caulking sealant tool for free ?
I use my finger, then wipe my finger on the wet rag.
Then lightly go over the joint with a damp sponge for final clean up.
Just like you would do on grout joints.
No brainer.
I have found that using a rag doesn't leave a smooth surface. Everyone has their own way of doing things.
Which is cool.
But after decades of not using a sponge for this.
I felt like a dork once I tried it. It's so easy and fast.
I was always taught to finish it with a damp rag
@@nicolaandrew7452 where do I get one
@@assog5737 , Thats exactly how I've been doing it for over twenty years. I get perfect results, and great adhesion.
Thanks for the useful tip helped me in restoring a classic caravan washroom area and around the sink area
I'm hardly a pro, but I'm a stickler for straight lines. I always use painter's tape above and below the line to be caulked; apply the caulk, pull my finger through it until it's even, then remove the tape and pull my finger lightly across it again. It may be silly, but I always get a perfect line every time.
Right there with you on that. Looks the business
you may have nice straight lines that look very neat and tidy but you will also have a concave bead that is extremely thin at point of contact with tile and tray/bath. This will soon lose contact from minimal cleaning and give access to water and soap and shortly to mould.
@@webmastermail8 what would you recommend?
I've done the painters tape method a couple times looks nice but never seems to last as long as it would if you didnt. I have a tool I use now that allows you to make the bead into the shape you want and scrapes up the excess
@@RennieAsh I think this is the best way and shows you how as well as explaining why.
ua-cam.com/video/_DI4hfHM_Hg/v-deo.html
Very good explanation, thank you.
im glad I came across this, someone did a shotty job in my bathroom, This is why I like doing things myself if I can🤷♀️ ghanks for Sharing
Didn't know Alexander Volkanovski makes how-to videos
I was so glad you used your finger Bill. Best caulking tools available the fingers. Tiny, clean consistent bead, all the way up to a fat bead, all on one hand 👌
Thank you ever so much. After all this time of Covid, we’re not having people come into the house. I have to learn to do this myself love your tips
Thank you from a amateur lass from Scotland 🏴, this is for around bath and sink…… time will tell if I get right
This was genuinely a very informative and easy to understand/follow video
Well explained and illustrated to follow and understand. Cheers IRVINE.
The other thing that works very well is an ammonia-free foaming window cleaner. They are available in spray cans. This is a very useful video and the demonstrated technique that most professional installers of glass shower enclosures and solid surface countertops use.
I was quite worried about siliconing around my worktops. Never done it before, so definitely a novice.After watching your video, I’m very confident at giving it ago. Thankyou 🙌