Defender Front Axle 10 to 24 Spline Conversion Maxi Drive Halfshafts & Detroit Truetrac Upgrade
Вставка
- Опубліковано 4 сер 2024
- I converted the front axle of my Land Rover Defender from 10 spline to 24 spline with Maxi Drive uprated half shafts. The differential was replaced with an Eaton Detroit Truetrac ATB limited slip differential for better offroad performance. CV's were upgraded from the later RTC6862 to early 1 ton AEU2522 type, the strongest made by Land Rover. Maxi Drive flanges completed the install. The conversion included changing the cv's and bearings to oil lubrication for longer life.
This was to improve reliability and strength for remote area travel of outback Australia. I had already upgraded the rear axle with Maxi Drive half shafts, flanges and a Detroit Truetrac, and it has performed flawlessly.
WANT TO CONTRIBUTE? Visit this page for ways you can assist my film productions. www.roamingtheoutback.com/how...
Join me on Patreon to support the creation of more videos and access Behind The Scenes: / roamingtheoutback
Visit my travel blog to explore Australian travel destinations, get touring vehicle preparation ideas, and read my latest gear reviews. www.RoamingTheOutback.com
STICKERS - EBOOK - TSHIRTS - MUGS - DONATIONS: www.roamingtheoutback.com/shop/
My VIDEO & 4X4 GEAR Recommendations: kit.co/RoamingTheOutback
FACEBOOK: / roamingtheoutback
INSTAGRAM: / roamingtheoutback
PINTEREST: www.pinterest.com.au/roamingt...
PATREON: / roamingtheoutback
#DefenderModifications
Pick a date. Live Your Somedays, Today. - Авто та транспорт
Nice upgrade Brett should serve your needs really well. And great video like always mate 👍
Very nice upgrade, you will no doubt, have more confidence in your travels
Very good info. I have my first Defender being imported to me now, a 95' 300TDI. You have very helpful videos. Thanks
watched as promised Brett!! good reasoning and motivations on account for reliability!
great job, especially discussing the technical details in laymans terms!
Thanks. laymans terms is the only way I can explain it. The technical jargon is way over my head.
Great video mate, really informative - I'm going to do pretty much the upgrades since my wheel bearing failed on me over the weekend.
Great video and well researched. The Deserts of WA will become addictive and you’ll return many times, as there is just so much to explore.
I bet you a beer that you will change the diff out to a switchable locker in the future. 👍🍺.
Keep up the good work.
Thanks mate. Yes it appears that way looking at the maps.. plenty of ground to cover. Doubtful I'd go full locker, but will see what the next 10 years hold.
Very good informative vid, thank You!
Nice up-grade cobber. I had units like that under the front of my '95 Tanami Edition Defender. Put it in for a service here in Gympie, and it came out WITHOUT the HD units in the front. Never trust an Apprentice. Love your work, Cheers for sharing. Atb, Brett
Thanks mate.. yes some places can be dodgy.
another awesome video!! I'm loving the tech info
Thanks for watching mate.
Great improvement, no doubt!
Still to test off road but i'm pretty confident it will be a whole new vehicle.
Without a doubt, it is much better! Cheers!
Hi brett i have a 1986 110 county 3.9.Have many extras H/D bits & other bits .I will be trav. to geo centre simp. next year as i could not this year.Ps take care on your trips.
Sounds like the kind of driving I'd like to do, no serious off roading, but just being able to go some places that might be risky without 4x4.
It's been great so far. I feel it kick in swapping back and forth left to right when losing traction. Always driving me forward.
Just up the road from my place
MANY THANKS FOR THE INFO . BRO KEEP IT UP
That's the beauty about being able to fix your own vehicles. Labor will eat you up in fees and if you did break something out in the desert it's not really a problem as long as someone can bring you parts
It's why I bought an old Defender. That and I didn't have to worry about scratching metallic paint.
5:54 Ovalate lol. That's a new one !
Nice upgrade ... Ashcroft do there own LSD which is on my hit list. Great to see someone else fitting what I have planned! Hope to hear more about it when you get some time on rougher/trickier spots!
Interesting point regarding the return to centre. I wonder why exactly??
Thanks Matt. Will do a full review in several months once I can test it out on different terrain. I'm guessing the return to centre is something to do with the way the helical gears mesh together. Just have to hold the steering wheel more firmly around corners.
Yes, there are Ashcroft made helical gear LSD out there, the Ashcroft ATB differential. It uses 6 pair of helical gear, in the Detroit TruTrac they use 3 pair. The more pair helical gear the greater LSD effect You get. In my Disco 1 I use Ashcroft ATB-s in both axle and I found it very effective. Although the Ashcroft produces more LSD effect, it is not affect the steering badly. The rear one is unnoticable onroad, the frot one is liiiiiiitle bit, but it is so little, that You drive the car for half an hour, and You get use to it and become unnoticabe. Nothing serious. But when You go off roading, both will be serious in performance!;-) ......and the Ashcroft one is cheaper too.
www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/limited-slip-differentials/ashcroft-atb.html
Looking forward to it chap!
I personally would've gone with lockers but it is personal preference & as ya'll say you do little to no real offroad 4wheeling, which I do a fair amount of. I'm also to frugal to pay labor rates & don't trust mechanics these days anyway, and do all my own work. That said I do like your choice of parts & am sure ya'll will have thousands of miles of great touring ahead of ya'll. Very good review & really like all the details, great video Brett.
Yes didn't see the need for a locker. I'd never trust myself doing this upgrade alone, too many tolerances and seals to figure out. Plus the drama of my front diff being the wrong type for my car, so the mechanics found a second hand one for the new centre to fit. expensive, but done right. Thanks.
full lockers are great. As the host mentions they work all the time, you can't believe how much traction you always have with these. besides I have to drive 3 or 4 hours to off road, and locking up the axles for minutes at a time seemed like overkill. and these tru tracs only get better with the more miles they run. and there is no air compressor needed or electric wiring. If you live off road then a full locker might be for you. If however you only 4 wheel sometimes or on weekends this is a far better application, at least in my opinion.
Good update. I have Ashcroft ATBs in front and rear for approx. 60kkm now. Just perfect......since its a TD4, I kept the org. shafts. Why detroid instead ATB's from Ashcroft?
Already had a trutrac in rear, so matched with front.. and think I got the rear one pretty cheap.
Thanks! I still have an open front and rear diff. I've gotten everywhere people said I couldn't go without a locker. With some careful and technical driving. And the winch. I've wanted to go didn't the helical lsd track front and rear for a long time. People said it horribly affects handling. Thanks for proving them wrong. And the tip about the drive line slack. Well. That's the icing on the cake. Thanks bret. 👌👍
Still yet to test the LSD off road, though I feel the steering should be ok. I'm just gripping the wheel a little more for corners at this point till I get some experience with the feel.
Roaming The Outback keen to know how you get on with the truetrac in the front. I have a rear one and it is great.
I’ve been worrying about the steering as well
Bret thank you for replying. And again thanks for the videos. Do you have an instagram?
sure do instagram.com/roamingtheoutback/
Logical upgrade but that price... OUCH!
Considering a lunchbox locker upgrade for my front diff... 4K would get me a whole replacement vehicle or a new transmission LOL 😂
haha, yes you have to weigh up how much you love your car and if you're keeping it for life.
Hey Brett awesome video .. it rear still 10 spline ? I also wanna do the changes like this on my front diffs ..do you links where I can purchase each of these stuff ? Rear I have put a Detroit true trac but it's 10 spline ..
rear 24 spline. No links. just search around online for suppliers.
Wish I could do the same on my car
I converted my Range Rover to 24 splines after blowing up my rear diff. 10 splines suck. My Range Rover has been converted to a GM 6.5 Turbo Diesel with 450 foot / lbs of torque. Its doubtful the 24's will hold up very long. Next up will be Dana 60's and 35's
Nice video. I have just ordered an Ashcroft LSD. One question, do you notice any pulling on the steering when on slippy surfaces? I living in North Sweden so lots of snow and ice driving.
Nothing particularly noticeable. I can feel both front and rear activating as they work me forward in loose sand, which may produce some feedback through the steering wheel.
@@RoamingTheOutback Thanks for that, look forward to testing it out, just front diff for now. But to be honest once the front wheels pack the snow down the back just follow. Guess this is not the case in Auz : )
Great setup! I´ve a question:
Would´nt it be helpful, if the drive flanges stay original, so that they are the weakest point?
If they break, they are not expensive and would be very easy to replace.
Thats the main point I always see in upgrades, exspecially if someone starts the upgrading at the engine side.
Stronger drive flanges, stornger halfshafts, stronger differentials, stronger propshafts, stronger gearbox etc.
Thanks mate. Yes, that may help as the weakest link.. assuming the splines do shear when under load. But again, I think with my style of driving, it will be unlikely I'll have any more issues.
Thanks for your reply. Sure, the drive flange splines need to shear.
You´re right, a lot depends on the (personal) driving style. Maybe that´s the most important point...
When you changed your CV’s, did you get the original LR or aftermarket type like Britpart?
They were likely OEM. The workshop ordered them. I would never put Britpart on my car wherever possible.
Genuine LR AEU2522 have been discontinued for many years.
i have a 2001 defender 110 county with a lot of backlash and have been thinking of doing this upgrade for a while what is the weight of all the parts roughly as i need to get them shipped to NZ
Couldn't tell you for sure.. but probably around 60kgs - 80 kgs.
Your landie is 25 years old this year!
It's our 12th year anniversary this month as well!
Brett did they not give you a little discount .I have in the past had a littl work done there.
No discount, but they did let me in to their workshop to film.
Hi. Great video. I have a question. I have the Detroit Tru-Trac in the rear of my 94 Range Rover county. I have never experienced any problems. As my Range Rover has rear Traction control, which helps trigger the properties of that differential. I noticed a vast improvement in the sand with the rear application. I want to install the same Tru-Trac in the front of my Vehicle. Now that you have had it installed for some time, can you tell me your impressions of the unit in actual operations? Specifically on sand, as it pertains to traction and steering control. Further did you notice anything peculiar, or quirky about it? and in general what were your impressions with highway driving after you have had more kilometers to evaluate that aspect. I really want one but wish to gain your acquired knowledge on the subject. Thank you very much..great video as always. I still want to come there and search for gold in the outback.
Mate you'll love them. No issues with it in the front. That initial pull I felt faded and became normal. Onroad no problems. offroad in sand magnificent. I climbed up a soft sand big hill in second low just casually crawling up @16psi. The diffs swap left and right as I lose traction and the opposite wheel grabs. Other cars were dropping to 10psi and giving it the guns. Transformed the car. Only issue was for the first 500km offroad with the centre diff locked, it became difficult to disengage due to the lack of slop in the system. Had to reverse 100m to get it out. That eventually stopped. Love them. no problems otherwise.
@@RoamingTheOutback Thank You! I just ordered an Lt230 transfer case, (to replace my Borg Warner viscous unit) from Ashcroft Transmissions, with the newer ATB center diff and steel flanged case. sort of like a tru trac for the center diff, when it isnt locked. It also eliminates more slop from the system. Hmm, that may be a problem, I will report back on the unlocking in reverse issue, whether I have it or not. When My bank account recovers I will be ordering the tru trac for the front diff..I should be ready for the big sand hills myself then..Thanks again..
Hi, I installed the ATB (Auto Torque Biasing) front diff (like the Tru Trac, I already have a tru trac in the rear diff), but this is made by Ashcroft Transmissions in the UK. I noticed that under acceleration on the highway, it seems to slightly pull to the right, when I let off the throttle the steering becomes neutral again. Since you didn't mention having this problem. I suspect that my Range Rover classic's Borg warner viscous transfer case has started to fail and is actually slightly engaged. I have in my garage an brand new rebuilt LT230 with the ATB diff installed, in place of the planetary gears that Lt230's have. It will function just as the front and rear diffs do, but from front to rear, unless the t_case is locked, that will be installed next week. I will let you know how that functions. I can't wait.
I did take my 94 RRC LWB for a test on a very steep hill. The ground was fairly hard but has loose bits of gravel and a lot of dust, which makes it somewhat slippery. I went up at a slow pace to test my traction, the front diff was just as you said, I could feel it working back and forth from right to left. I would estimate that it actually never spun a wheel more than say a quarter turn and it went up the hill much better than it had done on previous attempts, with out the front tru trac diff. I had made it up before but not with the same feel and confidence that the tru trac diffs give it. Your experience and comments about this product were/are very much appreciated. I must say that I am jealous of your being able to travel all around exploring and in a land rover too. Thank you
all these years later (4+)my Range Rover Classic (94) with the tru-trac diffs front hand rear has had zero problems to report. My center diff with Ashcroft ATB center diff has performed flawlessly. I could not be more pleased...I miss your videos. hope life is well for you..
i hope meet up with ronnie dahl when you make it out to wa
would be great !
Can you please tell me how you got on with the function test as per eaton manual please? Preload on my front makes it almost impossible and permanently locked?????
I had it all installed, so can't help sorry.
Please, please can you do me a function test on the front. It's dead easy. Jack up front axle, lock front prop( h brake on) spin one wheel, the other wheel should (should) spin in the opposite direction like any ordinary open diff. So should the rear, as per Eaton handbook. Cheers cob a, from across the big lake.
Hi 👋
One of my final upgrades on my Defender before I set off on my round Australia trip number 2. It will take a lot of worry off my mind knowing the whole driveline has now been upgraded or rebuilt. To equip your vehicle for touring Australia, visit www.expeditioncentre.com.au
Nice upgrade, worth the peace of mind! Have you ever thought of rotating your snorkel intake around!
no, not unless its super dusty or really deep water... as I travel solo there's usually little dust ahead of me.
@@RoamingTheOutback Perfect reply!
Nice upgrade, but, bloody hell it isn't cheap. That is a lot of $$$ for just a front upgrade. It will never break though.
Like I said, I just had to weigh up the cost/benefits of the upgrade.. But seeing my car is for the long term (12 years of ownership already) over its life it'll work out.. plus reduced break downs.
Hi Brett, how is this holding up? Cheers Mike
All good Mike. No problems at all.
Thanks Brett much appreciated for your reply 👍👍
Hi mate . We re i buy this staff???????
parts can be found online from various sources depending on your country.. you can order most from ashcroft transmissions.
الله يعطيكم ادعوه
Getting to know how to fix your vehicle in the bush is vital to reliable and safe travelling remote areas. Your new system is not 100% bullet proof.
Nothing is 100%.. but this removes most of my worries about the original LR gear. With my style of driving I'm far less likely to have issues.
50% stronger! That means they'll only break half as much. Lol. As a child I remember labouring up Wilson's Promontory, popping end shafts, and nearly going over the edge because the brakes were no good either! Christ I hate Landrovers. ;-)
haha. always a possibility.. Would not have enjoyed that trip. But you survived.
it is true! reminds me of the bill that the owners of the "76/79" pay, only for the TOY with the rear wheels in line with the front !
Also change the brakes,
increase the horsepower of the engine, but then drive very slowly to maintain decent consumption....
Always love your videos
But needing $10k for a recovery in the Simpson Dessert is just BS.
We use him heaps for work when we take test vehicles out there.
Yes he is very $$$, but not $10k before he starts. That's utter rubbish.
He will ask for $2k before he gets going.
There is a fella on the Gibb River Rd that has asked for $6k before he left...
$10k seems like one too many campfire stories to me
I can only go by what I've heard as I haven't done the Simpson yet. One of those 4wd shows was saying $10000, and on a few posts I've read. Thanks for the update on correct pricing.
@@RoamingTheOutback These costs are from 2007.
Recovery from Birdsville Auto:
$2.00 per km for the trip out to recovery location
$4.00 per km for the return trip to Birdsville
Plus: $65 per hour for when the recovery vehicle
leaves Birdsville, and until its return to Birdsville
Recovery from Mt Dare:
$1.00 per km for the trip out to recovery location
$2.00 per km for the return trip to Mt Dare
Plus: $50 per hour for when the recovery vehicle
leaves Mt Dare, and until its return to Mt Dare