MTD Transaxle Basic Rebuild (Replacing all Bearings) Part 2 of 2
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2012
- Part 2 of 2 Rebuilding / replacing bearings in my transaxle transmission off my older model MTD mower, transaxle model 717-1050 or 717-761 and several other models are built basically the same, but may have different part numbers for the bearings. This is the type of transmission that has forward neutral reverse, no actual gears in it. I show all the part numbers at the end of of this video of all parts i replaced in this 2 part video. Thanks for watching!!
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I really like these and cheap to fix
It’s all most folks need and the tuff stuff is high cost
Glad to help out! No problem, thanks for watching!!!
Good job i like how you bring everything you work on back to factory
i have the same transaxle and i just recently broke an axle and had to take it apart. this was a big help and one of the only vids of this model
Saved me a lot of aggravations. Thanks !
Yepp, its a pretty good setup really. Thanks for Watching!!!
Great job on relaying the part #'s! you dont see that very often. Great video!
yeah lot of parts but it actually was kind of fun to work on this, guess its a change of pace from working on engines too. it should be similer, now on the other one i tore down to look at everything, instead of having keyways, all the parts that had keyways in this one was all splined. thanks for watching!!!
Great video. Thanks much!
Glad to help out! yeah that would probably work. I know the gears are really expensive in these. If you have trouble finding parts, look on parts tree, they have hard to find parts for almost anything. thanks for watching!!!
I am repairing/rebuilding one on these on a Toro rider right now. I did not have the tools to reassemble the differential if I did take it apart but I wanted to get the old grease out as there was a lot of metal in the old grease. I took the differential out in the yard and I blasted it with my pressure washer. I then dried it out as well as I could with compressed air and examined it again. It still had some of the old grease in it so I blasted it again with the pressure washer and rotated the gears many, many times reblasting with water repeatedly until I got all of the grease out. I then hit it with the compressed air repeatedly until I had it as dry as I possibly could get it. After this I set it out in the sun and the breeze until I knew it was completely dry. Not wanting any rust to develop I took a can of silicone spray and I thoroughly hosed the inside and outside of the entire differential and placed it back in the sun to let the silicone spray carrier evaporate. This leaves every little part of the assembly still coated with the silicone which will prevent rust accumulating until I can get the trans axle reassembled. Just a friendly tip to anyone desiring to get the old grease out without disassembling the differential. Thank you,
fnaguitarplayer9, for this video and for all of your videos for that matter.
That would be the best way to do it, good idea. I should have cleaned this one better, but I figure I will when i take it apart later on to replace the top needle bearings, still making noise. Your welcome, glad to help out! Thanks for Watching!!!
@@fnaguitarplayer9, I am curious as to whether or not the differential AND the bevel gears are supposed to have shims on their respective shafts to control side play. The one I have (it was being thrown away by a neighbor) has no shims on either and there seems to me to be quite a bit of side play. I think the previous owner was in there messing around because a lot of things did not look right to me. Also, the brake disc and one of the brake pucks were missing as if someone was attempting to repair this thing and just lost some stuff. By the way, thank you for responding to my previous comment.
Great vide, thanks for sharing, saved the day for me.
First off, I really appreciate your video! I need to do this soon and this will be my guide. I did see something here that may have caused your binding when putting the case together and maybe your shifter issue. I read that these call for a Bentonite clay grease because it's super thick, heat and water resistant and won't wash out in outdoor gasket-less application. It also does not play well with any other grease like moly or graphite. Anyway, that's just an FYI. (continued)...
replace the needle bearings on the spindle on the drive pulley, if i do i will get all that grease out and regrease it with the correct grease! Thanks again for pointing all that out and thanks for watching!!!
MTD calls for 19 ounces of durina grease, I always use Super S 00 grease, $5.99 at tractor supply for 32 ounces. Case screw torque specs are 90-135 in-lb, detent screw 160-200 in-lb.
Very nice video. Good camera angle
thanks! i try to, i think its best to, because they had things a certain way for a reason, i just wish i would have used a thicker grease though, oh well haha thanks for watching!!!
not easily, there is a video on here (not mine) of someone locking one of these, and you have to weld the 2 differential gears together on the shaft, and there is no going back after its done! Thanks for Watching!!!
you will have to find a flywheel shroud for a model 28 with a pull start on it, and you will have to replace the nut that holds the flywheel on with a start clutch. I've never done it but i've seen them. i figure it will be pretty hard to crank over! i guess it would be good as a backup in case your battery is dead or have starter problems. thanks for watching!!!
I mixed in a bowl Lucas & tacky red axle & bearing grease until its thick but still clings to the gears. If you just use grease it wont stay on the gears & it will leave an open path where the gear spins it will start chipping the gears. I had to replace a gear learned the hard way. To mix the grease & oil I used a electric mixer blade in my drill & it works awesome. I mow 7 acres with my John Deere it used to have a winding sound when I go forward but not any more.
That is a good idea, i never thought of mixing it like that. Thanks for Watching!!!
Great videos. Thanks for the information. Tractor supply carries the 00 grease that you should put in these
Thanks! Your welcome, good to know! I will get that next time! Thanks for Watching!!!
no problem! not all the time! it probably is very similar, but this one in this video is from the 70's, the design hasn't changed much, i took a 90's apart and the bearings are different and the splines are different on the shafts, other than that it looked identical. no problem!
I have one transmission with a broken axle, I need to tear it down and see what i need for it, its probably older than this one. Glad to help out! Thats the main reason i decided to make this video, there ain't much on these out there!!! thanks for watching!!!
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@Harrison Landen Glad I could help :D
@fnaguitarplayer9 Thanks for the quick response I'm sure you're a busy man. I guess I'll open that bad boy up for a DIY job haha. Plus I like to see how things work. And hopefully I can achieve my goal to fix the problem. FYI I have a MTD 13A1762F729 (2007) by the online diagrams its very similar to your video post. Thanks again, your video really did help.
i've heard of that before, didn't know it was that expensive!!! i will not use that lucas red n tacky again, i just didn't like it. It didn't even smell like grease. I started to form-a-gasket mine but figured, well after 40 years no water seeped in, so it should be ok haha i hear ya, never thought of that! thanks for watching!!!
Hey player. I got a tip that some of your viewers may can use when attaching their shift rod to the transaxle yoke rod. The hole in the shift rod for the clip pin is just a tad larger than the pin itself. So it is sometimes aggravating trying to get the pin through as the end of the pin will obstruct itself on the outer edges of the shift rod, and not go through unless it is perfectly aligned. After a few tries, I grinded a nail point on the end of the pin. Then it fell right in first try.
That is a good tip, I'll keep that in mind next time I work on one and will mention it in the video. Thanks for Watching!!!
Great video man! Thanks for the pointers on the grease types. I have a transmission just like this, with the same issue, that one bearing on the left side is the worst. Mine got so bad that it wore away at the top casing of the transmission slightly. Do you think I have any hope of saving it by cleaning out the grease/metal shavings, replacing bearings/bushings, and re-packing grease? It was running fine when I took it apart but I could hear it squeaking and squealing... which is when I realized the bearings were eaten up. I don't want to buy all new bearings and seals and grease if the top casing is gonna give me trouble. Only trouble I can figure it would cause is a small grease leak and/or the bushing not sitting in place exactly right. I was also wondering about what you said with those bushings that need to be straight up and down. I put mine back together somewhat and noticed the bushings do have flat spots but for mine it didn't seem to matter which way they face. I think I'm gonna set the flat spot vertical facing the shifter piece side and see if that works. Thanks!
great video bro. My mtd jerks in forward gear really bad where it shakes the heck out of the whole mower but not in reverse. do you think it those gears in the differential? or the two bevel forward and reverse gears and clutch collar that you shown on the first half of your video? if i disassemble it how would i know or see what the problem is? Also the belts look good on the mower so that's not the problem. Any ideas would help. Thanks in advance.
It is quite involved, great video, Thanks for sharing.
I wonder if that is the same as my 12.5 HP 1993 MTD riding mower.
You get rid of the end to end play by buying more washers and thrust washers... And during reassembly inserting the correct amount in each side to take up the slack... Inside on the axle directly inside decide the bronze bushings...
Another thing I notice is your reassembly should have started on the other half of the clam.,. Spring side down, then the detent ball, the gear selector... That way everything lines up... Also turn the gears before you start bolting it together... That's why you couldn't get it together the first go round...
The manufacturer recommends Benalene grease, which is expensive ($23 / 8oz) liquid grease, comparable to 400 weight gear lube. I used Shell Alvania instead, but it may do the same thing: cake up and not touch the moving parts eventually. It's interesting that they use a liquid grease to manufacture these and use no seal whatsoever between the case halves. BTW...mine is a Cub cadet LT1040 gearcase.
BTW...I got away with reversing the gears and coupler to correct a slipping problem.
So far....
didn't show it but did you grease the shaft before putting the bevel gears on it to prevent cold weld to the shaft?
At 8:20, when you paused to note that the left bushing (Part 14?) had to be properly oriented, the right bushing (Part 46) has to be also. That part has 2 molded keys opposite each other next to the flange. One of them can be clearly seen at 9:00 before it was greased. When you put the case together I could see where the case was rocking and binding - right over that bushing as the keys were vertical. When you bolted the case together the first time the bearing was forced (continued)...
I have an MTD almost exactly with this same transaxle, I took it apart about 4 years ago to see how it looked inside. It had a lot of grease in it too, like yours did. I cleaned it and added the regular grease you buy at advance, just for the heck of it I put in a couple of capfuls of some synthetic engine oil, I figured what's the worse that could happen, it would leak out. I'm going to tear the lawnmower down this winter and it will be interesting to see how the grease and oil held up.
I was thinking about drilling a hole in the case and tapping it for a grease fitting, not sure if that would be a waste of time since these things seem kind of bullet proof, mines a 98 model bought it new and I have almost three acres so it's been well used.
I also have used slick 50 and synthetic oil in the engine and when I rebuilt it four years ago it was barely worth the money because there was so little wear, I was pretty amazed.
Kyocera234 Thats interesting, never though of doing that. Alot of people add grease fittings to them, i'm thinking about doing it next time i have one apart, then maybe once or twice a year add a few pumps of grease just to make sure its full. yeah, they are pretty much bullet proof, they hold up really good. I didn't know slick 50 was still around, i've heard alot about it. I just put some lucas in my truck, it seems to be some good stuff. where did you get the slick 50 at? I've always been interested in it. Thanks for Watching!!!
That grease is too thick. Over time it will heat up and flow to the sides and bottom of the case and get firm. Use a 00 weight grease from tractor supply and that grease will stay in a flow able grade and won't harden over time. Your doing a fine job otherwise.
Yep. I am in process of opening up the transaxle on my mower right now, and "Super S Cotton Picker Grade 00 Spindle Grease" from Tractor Supply is what I am using to replace the factory grease with.
No problem! Thought i'd make it since there really ain't no other videos on these. i'll have to remember that type of grease! yepp your right, i didn't even think about that the other side. That probably was what happened!!! Its fine now, after i took it apart after the gear locked up, I idid use a thicker grease on that part after I unseized the gear. I put the bushings in right and it went together really smooth. I'll use that grease next time, i figure i'll have to take it apart and >>>>>
The funny thing was the first one I used pressure washer on and grease went all over my fence, tryed to wash it off before wife seen it
Really good tutorial here ..thanks. I have a lawn tractor with MTD transmission that seems to have a problem. When I put it up on blocks the left side turns when put in gear but the right side does not. Does that mean there may be a problem with the differential?
***** It could be a differential problem, but most of the time they will act like that, put it in low gear so it turns slow and try to stop the tire that spinning, the other should start, if it does then the differential is fine. You can also check the differential by putting the transmission in neutral and spinning one tire, the other tire should spin the opposite way. Thanks for Watching!!!
MTD requires a different type of lube, that’s what everybody that works on them sticks that junk in and it ruins the transaxle because it dries out!!!
You can get an equivalent lube from Tractor Supply it’s a 00 lube it’s very liquid made to sling up and into all the nooks and crannies!!!
I'll use that next time I tear into one. Thanks for Watching!
Tks for the reply. It looks the same as the one your working on. It doesn't seem to have anywhere to put oil in it
Your welcome. Its probably grease i'd say.
Hi
The derailleur is stuck in front or behind
Does the grease need to be replaced?
it ment to tell you does do it in reverse also tryed adjusting shifter lever all ready thx harry
Do you know how to install a pull start on my 12.5 hp B&S flathead. It also has electric start but I would like to have both
hello, thanks for the video, I am writing to you from Italy, I have a problem with my lawn mower, with the forward gear if I am going downhill it picks up speed and you can hear a noise at the transmission (continuous beat), which it doesn't do if I go downhill in reverse. What can it depend on? Thanks Marc
Your welcome, that may be a stripped gear ( like a tooth broken off) or possibly a bad bearing making the gear skip. Thanks for Watching!
Great video thanks a lot, I have to do this in the next week or so and lock the diff
any idee of the cost of the bearings .ps;the backgound noise was a bit loud, but thanks again
Thanks, your welcome! Heard that, for what i replaced in this video it cost around 50 dollars, but it depends on model of transmission. Also, i get parts from tewarehouse (dotcom) they offer aftermarket brands which can save a ton of money. Yeah, sorry about the noise but it was hot that day, over a 100 in the garage! Thanks for Watching!!!
Thanks for quick reply , so now i have a idee of the cost
btw I use graese from automatique greasers like on caterpillars this is semi liquide and ideel on
slow to mid reving gears. Greetings from Belgium
your welcome! Yeah it does vary some though. I have a 3 speed (another video) that need all new bearings and it has ball bearings so it costs more. I'll keep that in mind next time i need some grease. Thanks!
that link didn't work and i changed the dot to a . , but i'll check into that on my next rebuild.
Can you lock the mtd transmission
Great video BUT I don't recall how you Finally got the two cases back together,what was causing them to bind up?
Thanks. Turned out to be a couple of the bushings have a flat spot that goes up and down, i had them in wrong and it was hanging up. Just check the bushings, after that it went right together no problems. Thanks for Watching!!!
I have same exact trans what Greece do I use for mine
Thanks for the great video!
What was the UA-cam video that you watched to learn how to do the rebuild?
Your welcome! I can't remember to be honest about it, its been a while. At the time there wasn't very many on here, i'm sure there is more now. Thanks for Watching!!!
I'll be working mine over soon.
Maybe I'll do a video of it.
Stay tuned!
sounds good, let me know if you make a video on it
good
Thanks for Watching!!!
into the case by the beveled keys and into the gear - forcing the shaft too far over to the brake side. The bushing should have been almost flush with the case and I did not see it there at the end of the video. You can see the two pockets for the keys in the case halves in Part 1 at 7:48 (follow the finger to the dark notch on one side of the shaft tube) and the other one at 8:00. When the case is together the keys would be a few degrees from horizontal since each case half has 1 key way.
One day my wheel and axle came out while mowing, I stripped down the transaxle and I am not able to find any e-clips etc... How are the axles secured into the differential?
oh man! I've never had to take the axles out, but according to the diagram for the one in this video, there should be a nut that threads on the end of the axle, with a washer on it. I think some have a snap ring, not for sure on that. You would think it would be like a vehicle with those e clips, its so easy to do those. Hope this helps, thanks for watching!!!
What fluid do you put back into it? I have a Ranch King 42 inch tractor built by MTD. It's the 6 speed manual type transaxle. No hydro here... And how do you change the fluid? This one's 10 years old and I want to change it.
On this type you use grease, i'm thinking its a 00 grease, its really hard to find, i just used a thick wheel bearing grease i think it was and its still working to this day, i used lucas red n tacky at first and it locked up the jack shaft in it, so i had to tear it down and pack it in wheel bearing grease. now some do use a gear oil, but that is mainly the older type, and also if its a hydrostatic it will take a special type of oil, not sure on that. I'd say more than likely yours is the grease though. Hope this helps, Thanks for watching!!!
What was the mixture ratio of the grease that you used ? thanks you
Not so much a ratio, but use the proper type, thicker the better. Thanks for Watching!!!
I drew a rough outline of the transaxle on a box and stuck the bolts i their locations in the box.
How does trans cable hook up
This take oil? I have a yard machines mtd 607 with a 618-0307c trans
This one is grease packed, alot of them were, but there all different. Thanks for Watching!
I found this on Amazon for 12 bucks plus shipping. Seems to be perfect texture. amazondotcom/gp/product/B001OKBHRK/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Snapper brand liquid grease. Cleaned off as much of the old as possible and used this. BTW..this bottle was plenty.
hi Im replacing the needle bearing. During assembly could you explain the position of the small ball., I want to make sure forward and reverse adjust correctly , could you explain the adjustment again thx
I put mine together with the gears in neutral, and put the fork in the neutral spot, and put the ball in the center notch, then the spring goes in the top piece, grease should help hold it in place until its together, just check it first before putting all the bolts back in, it doesn't take much for the ball to move. Thanks for Watching!!!
Hey bud, how did you learn everything about small engine repair?...Did you work at a shop or go to school?....I mean you have serious skills man!..& I want to learn!
Green Power Farm Hey! Well to be honest, I never took any classes on small engine repair, it all started by helping my dad keep the mowers running every summer, we'd stay up to 2 getting the mowers ready (always had a problem haha) and i just learned from that, then he got burnt out on working on them so i took over and learned more than he showed me just by doing it myself, and I've done alot of reading online as well. This transaxle video is a good example of me learning by doing, i never tore into one before this video (except one time just to see what was inside haha), learn by doing, and researching, a good repair manual helps to for specs on different motors, or a less common repairs, and youtube is a great source, before i started making videos I had alot of questions answered through youtube, one example of that was I had a motor that a surge in it and i could not get it out by adjusting the carburetor, learned it was do to the governor being out of adjustment. I never worked at a shop, all the stuff in the videos is either my own or my buddy's, its a dream of mine though to have a small engine shop. And in the last few years i've ventured into auto repair some as well. I don't know quite as much about vehicles as i do mowers but i'm learning, one repair at a time, which is what happens when you buy a truck thats had a rough life! I appreciate that! I still don't consider myself a expert. Best thing i can tell you is watch videos, read repair manuals (which not all are great, but it does help) and learn by just tearing a motor apart and learn what each part is and does, and put it back together and make it run! the first motor I had (and still have ) was a old 5HP briggs, i tore that motor apart at least 20 times, never got it running because i never could find a carburetor for it, and it needed bored out. But i learned how to take them apart from that. its the one in the video called briggs restoration project or something like that, I painted the flywheel red one time i had it apart haha sorry for a long answer haha Thanks for Watching!!!
Thanks for the explained answer! I am a new sub for you and been watching all your videos (some over and over) for a few nights now.....You have the best video's on you tube for small engines! Very simply explained and amazing camera work! Thank you kindly for taking the time making these video's!....you have the some serious small engine skills my friend!
Green Power Farm
No problem! Thanks for the sub! I appreciate you saying that, i try to make them as best as i can, i just wish i could do more! Hopefully soon i can start making more videos, usually doing the summer i put 2 up a month, but i hope to do more than that. Thanks again!
Great & informative video! How much labor time is reasonable to charge a customer for this rebuild/repair? It's one of those jobs that I feel I can never charge the time it really takes, but want to be fair to the customer. Thanks!
Gary Busby Appreciate that! Eh, thats hard to say, all the motors in the videos are either mine or friends and i just charge parts for them. But I'd say charge at least 5 hours, depending on your rate, If i was going to charge for a rebuild it would be a flat rate probably in the 50 - 150 range (plus parts), depending on engine type/size. but that is probably less than it should be. Like i said its hard for me to say, i'm just throwing numbers out haha Thanks for Watching!
reely good video thx my troy pony while driving jump in an out of forward drive what do you think in worn or bad on it thx for ur help
More than likely what is causing that is the little ball and spring that lets the shifter "snap" into gear, if its worn or the spring is broke it will drift out or jump out of gear. If it isn't that its probably the selector fork or the part (not sure exactly what its called) that the fork rests in that moves back and forth on the shaft, the teeth could be worn on it not letting it stay in gear. Alot of possibilities but that would be my guess. Hope this helps, thanks for Watching!!!
ok thx for all ideas about trans
*****
no problem!
my mtd when i try to shift either from reverse to foward is so hard some times, you think the ball bearing is dry from grease on the transaxle shifter..
That would be the first thing I would check on it, one of my mowers is like that and I'm pretty sure that is the problem. There are other things that cause it as well, one of the simple things is to much belt tension, if the belts are still trying to spin when shifting it will make for some hard shifting. Thanks for Watching!!!
thank you,, i think i will give that a try, and thanks for messageing me back, this will prob be a spring project since winter is around the corner, dont want to think about winter. yea few times got the rider hung up got it close to the house or tree and couldnt get it in reverse cause it jammed up..thanks again
your welcome! I hear ya, i feel the same about winter! no problem!
you dne a great jop
Thanks for Watching!!!
Can you provide me with the deails on the lottle metal ball and spring you show in your video? Seems to have lost mine!
thnks
marcel
If you need part #'s i need the model of your transmission there are some differences over the years, as far as installing it, you drop the spring in the hole then ball rests on the spring, its very hard to get it to all go together, usually a glob of grease helps hold it in place. Thanks for Watching!!!
fnaguitarplayer9 Hello, thanks for replying, I al working on a Yardman DX 70 Beetle and the part number on the transmission housing is: "MTD 719-0358. US PAT 4'671'680. It is on old one, so hope you can provide me with a part number for this metall ball with this info. Greeting from Belgium, Marcel
Marcel van den Maagdenberg Yes, i was able to pull up a parts diagram for it, the ball part # is 741-0862 and the spring is 732-0863 the site i got the #'s from says the spring isn't available, i'd run the part # where your ordering from and see if it is there. hope this helps!
An old veridrive, they still use these...
what kind of grease did you use thx harry
There is more info on this in the comments but a grade 00 grease is recommended if you can find it, i used a general purpose/bearing grease. First time around i used lucas red n tacky #2 and it didn't like it to well. Thanks for Watching!
u are a grteat asset to u tube
appreciate that!
That Differential cover is held on with 4 T30 Torx impact metal threads. Why didn't you remove the cover for cleaning and inspection? Thanx for the video 11FEB2018
I probably should have, but i was mainly concentrating on the broken bearings, but yeah it would be recommended to do that. your welcome, Thanks for Watching!!!
Where did you get your parts
Wes Moon I got most of them at parts tree, they had all of them but i was ordering some parts from tulsa engine warehouse and a couple bearings were cheaper. You can also find everything on ebay as well. Thanks for Watching!!!
how hard was it getting the old bairing off
+paul mclaughlin The axle bearings just slide off unless there is a burr or rough spot on the axle. Now the top bearings under the pulley, i've never replaced them before, they are needle bearings. I imagine it would be harder to do. Thanks for Watching!!!
The needle bearings are pretty easy to get out. You'll need either a press, or a vice with a large jaw spread. I put the top housing in the vice. The order was like this... 1x6 piece of wood against the inner jaw/transaxle housing with the inside facing the wood/ and then a socket just barely smaller than the O.D. Of the bearings. Then it's as simple as turning the handle. There are two bearings, and both need to be pressed towards the inside of the case, and through. You might have to use a hammer on the handle. I did, and I didn't damage anything. It's cheaper if you find them on eBay by the bearing number. They are SCE108's, I believe. The number can be found on the bearing. Don't find them by the MTD #. You'll save about $6-$8.
Sounds about right, they weren't real bad so i didn't mess with them, probably should have since i had it apart. That is true, ill keep that in mind! Thanks for Watching!!!
thanks for watching!!!
What are the torque specs for the 1/4" case bolts
I couldn't find it at the time, i just torqued them all the same with a 3/8" ratchet. Thanks for Watching!!!
German specs.. Goodntight. Do Not use American specs (Way too tight)
Every one of them needs new bushings
be nice to show a link or a name where we could get parts.
I thought I mentioned on the video, ordered from 2 places, partstree.com and at the time i was ordering from tulsa but they went out business. Thanks for Watching!!!
that 717-761 is not transaxle model number . It part number of lower case
I don't know why but i don't like not one thing about MTD, Seems like they are a bit cheaper then the others, but what do i know.
dude ..front bushing next to the brake disk has a cut out in the housing ... bushing has a nubbly ... explains the rocking ...
nemaproducts yeah I didn't see it at first it goes right together with it lined up. Thanks for watching!!!
Thanks! Every time a make a video i move the camera around like 10 times trying to get it just right haha sometimes i wish i could get it better. Thanks for Watching!
you forgot to include the gear selector..............................
I only included part #'s on parts i was replacing, the part number for the shifter fork is MTD # 717-0754 and the part it fits into (clutch collar) is # 717-0667 these all numbers for this particular transaxle. Thanks for Watching!!!
Unless you meant i didn't show putting it back in, I just noticed that in the video, it just slides back in the same way it came out, just make sure it slides back and forth freely. sorry about that!
Good video but it's hard to understand your dialect in parts.
Sorry about that! Thanks for Watching!!!
Could you please tell your wife next time, NOT to use the shower as you record???!!!! LOL ☺
lol Thanks for Watching!!!