Awesome video! I wish there was a bigger community of people like you who share their knowledge. That is how different race specs go to die. Thanks for this!
I am just amazed how much changes were made from the transaxles of old. The shaft size of 3/4 inch diameter is super lightweight. The old stuff was one inch or 1 1/8 inch diameter. Interesting video Sir.
Awesome modification! I'd like to make a quick correction on the bearings you've shown/listed, what you're actually after is a 6203-3/4-2RS. 40mm OD, 3/4" ID, 12mm wide are the specs and they're readily available.
This is an awesome way to use a trans that most racers would tell you aren't worth the time of day... I did that with one of those foote H pattern 3 speed trans from small chain drive mowers.. I deleted the vertical input and used a keyed shaft as a horizontal input and it is way better than any peerless 700 I've had no whine and barely any power loss.. I bet that brake shaft on the fnr would make an excellent horizontal input if one were so inclined...
@@NubsWithGuns are u high? This is an entire different system lol he removed the ring gear, intermediate gears and four spider gears which are solid steel and replaced it with chain and 2 small sprockets ... It is definitely far lighter like this not to mention the actual point is to internally speed up and strengthen the axle.. apparently you really are a nub lol
Same here I’m just looking at the princess auto catalog today n I can’t seem to figure out the sprockets n in the pictures they don’t look like the ones in the video at all can PEi let us please know like all part numbers etc or are the sprockets need to be welded on to the weld-on hubs bc there’s different like are you PEi guy in video ment to say weld on hub and weld on sprockets or do they already come as a one peace ya know what I’m saying here also what does a thrush washer look like ???? 2:03
Nvm about the sprockets I just figured that out after I said that comment now I’m only stuck on thrust washers so the sprockets n weld on hubs do need to be welded together first other then the thrust washers I have everything else figured out also how many of the thrust washers we need ??
Is the level of complexity much different for a 5 speed (maybe its a 6 can't remember) craftsman transmission? My ideal scenario is to replace the transaxle with a longer one and then put it in a golf cart.
Good day from Ontario. Interesting video. So the way u r doing it u said 6.5 gar ratio. Do u know what the gear ratio would be on normal riding tractor ? U said parts from Princess auto, CDN Thanks .
Thanks for putting this together...very informative! So when building an MTD tractor for racing, is the variable speed pulley left as part of the drivetrain?
@@peilawntractorracingclubin7053 I used a stock trans exact to this one and a 1" bore CVT and a 212cc clutch pulley on the trans, and I hit 12mph using a small mower belt to drive it! It's a rear engine Murray
Everything I've seen about these trans, everyone says they are junk, and on all the other builds, they always say get away from the chain it is a bomb waiting to go off. I have 2 of these I was going to use, but now am very curious. How did this hold up? And what would you do differently?
Have you ever done a similar thing to a peerless 5 speed unit? It looks like you could completely remove the entire reduction gear assembly and run a keyed shaft in the rear and a sprocket and chain from the gearbox output to the rear axle. It’s something I want to try out, I don’t like overdriving the crap out of everything to go faster, it just ruins the transaxle
What do you do about brakes? Can the stock setup be utilized or will you need to install a rotor on the axle and mount a caliper? Any pics would a help as I'll be building one asap
Could this handle a direct shaft drive from a motorcycle engine it will only have 25hp but im trying to eliminate any belts or chains its for a mini rat rod build 👍🏻
is there any reason you couldn't put in both bevel gears and the selector so that it still has forward and reverse, provided that you get them shimmed correctly?
There is no reason reverse has to be removed... He just has no use for it and it's always there being a source of parasitic drag but it would actually be less work to keep the "reverse" which happens to be the original forward gear because the chain drive reverses the whole thing...
@@legendary_perfomance the reason standard transaxle reverse chains explode is usually (99%) a function of extreme wear on the reverse sprocket itself (due to extreme neglect at extreme speeds) causing misalignment. Everyone knows a chain spinning opposite all its neighboring gears really aught be aligned.. for everyone's sake... one of the many benefits of doing it this way with this trans is that there is no reverse chain it works a lot like a peerless mst reverse where it's actually 2 opposing input bevel gears and if you really think about it that is actually the one reason this chain drive conversion can work because of the simple fact that a chain driven shaft spins opposite a gear drive..
My mtd lawn tractor has the same gearbox. I took of the big rear pulley stuck to the gearbox and the pulley and shaft have a whole different pattern. It has 36 teeth with a converter with a six stat slot where the pulley goes. I cant find any other pulleys with the 6 star slot. I need a keyway shaft. Your shaft was as mine in the start of the video but in the end it was different. Can you tell me what you do with the shaft to make keyway pulleys fit
Ur video is great. I'd say the best so far for this type of diy or retro-fitting ..Very simple for diy..excellent for young and old alike...On your next video. Could u put ur cam on a tripod. The constant rapid movements of camra is very distracting . And repeat tapping on the subject material doesn't help with hearing ur narration.. I still give you (A+) I'm doing fiberglass over riding mower mods that look like cars, pickups,Van's and big rigs.. your diy just solved several drive train issues..
Sorry for the strange question, but... Is there a hydrostatic riding lawnmower transmission that is 13 inches long? Or wide? Or is there a transmission that I can cut down to 13 inches? What I am trying to do is build a galloping goose railcar. 5 inch scale 15 inch wide track. Im using a Briggs and stratton 17 hp motor and a riding lawnmower frame. I want to try to use the transmission to have forward and reverse.
When you push in the brake on the mower and disengage the belt it won’t engange the rear end. So the pedal on the mower will be only thing keeping it from going
I have a 719 transaxle currently ordering my parts soon. I have a question, will I need to remove the input shaft from the case or get a new one? Also what are the size and length on your keyed shafts, viewing bmicarts they vary to 4.5 - 16) 3/4 with cut to length. Thanks for the video!
Input shafts and gears vary somewhat from model to model. Although all are 5/8 input shafts, some are machined down to 1/2" on each end. I prefer the full size shaft as the keyway in the 1/2" is very small and likely to fail with any amount of power. I use 3ft keyed axle shaft from Princess Auto. The 719 will not have provisions for ball bearings.
@@peilawntractorracingclubin7053 Alrighty thanks, I'll take this information and see what I can do with finding the proper length - size at princess auto, are you saying for the 719 model, they won't accept the ball bearings? Did all your keyed axle shafts come straight from princess auto;
I'm going to go ahead and say yes, I see no reason you would have to delete reverse gear it shouldn't be in the way and because it's gear driven its strong. Guys delete the chain driven reverse found in other transaxles because it's bound to break.
buy the parts off of e bay and figure it out. worst thing is dragging all the nasty old grease out of it.... lots of rags and a cardboard box to throw the rags into. i wud put STP oil treatment in the gearbox before final sealing up. up to the bottom of the axle shafts so the oil doesnt leak out of the axle shafts.... STP OIL TREATMENT is generally tooooo thick to leak out of axle shaft. oil /grease the input needle bearings too on the input shaft tower as they need oil/grease. 2 of the 1/2" collars with allen head set screws blue thread lock on final assembly on those grub screws when u get it all together finally. the part # he gave for the bearings is ... are 12mm or 1/2"... axles are 3/4" or 1" on the HD models. so need 3/4" bearings for the axle if have 3/4" axle shafts... or 25mm/ 1" bearings for 1" axle shafts. they are made in the US so the axles should be US standards????
that brass input gear is not going to be too happy without OIL IN IT... STP OIL TREATMENT up to the bottom of the axle shafts with some gear oil in it too. the gear oil will leak out of the axle shafts.... maybe not so much with the axle bearings that need to be regreased with REAL GREEEN/ RED GREASE so they last forever as the packing greease is the cheapest grease they can get away with putting in there to keep them from rusting on the boat from china. pry out the seals and pack in real US GREEN/RED grease and put seals back in. a good coating of green red grease on gears wud help too i suppose along with the STP oil treatment... liquid grease.
Awesome video! I wish there was a bigger community of people like you who share their knowledge. That is how different race specs go to die. Thanks for this!
I am just amazed how much changes were made from the transaxles of old. The shaft size of 3/4 inch diameter is super lightweight. The old stuff was one inch or 1 1/8 inch diameter. Interesting video Sir.
i could imagine a race modded wheel horse 8 or 6 speed trans it would be heavy but bulletproof!
THAT IS A FACT FELLA !!!!@@111455
Awesome modification! I'd like to make a quick correction on the bearings you've shown/listed, what you're actually after is a 6203-3/4-2RS. 40mm OD, 3/4" ID, 12mm wide are the specs and they're readily available.
This is an awesome way to use a trans that most racers would tell you aren't worth the time of day... I did that with one of those foote H pattern 3 speed trans from small chain drive mowers.. I deleted the vertical input and used a keyed shaft as a horizontal input and it is way better than any peerless 700 I've had no whine and barely any power loss.. I bet that brake shaft on the fnr would make an excellent horizontal input if one were so inclined...
Thanks! And yes, most racers toss these rears.
@@NubsWithGuns are u high? This is an entire different system lol he removed the ring gear, intermediate gears and four spider gears which are solid steel and replaced it with chain and 2 small sprockets ... It is definitely far lighter like this not to mention the actual point is to internally speed up and strengthen the axle.. apparently you really are a nub lol
@@ianbuilds7712compared to just using a live axle with pillow blocks, this is heavy.
@@boostaddict_ the point is that a lot of racing mower classes require a stock trans
@@peilawntractorracingclubin7053how do you get your tires to stay on i am doing the same thing
Great video. But why remove the reverse gear. Only thing I can think of is it may prevent it from jumping out of gear.
Oh I see you caught a keyway into the locking collar from the travel reverser
I’m having trouble figuring out what I need anyway I can get in contact with you to maybe put a cart together for me on what I would need
Same here I’m just looking at the princess auto catalog today n I can’t seem to figure out the sprockets n in the pictures they don’t look like the ones in the video at all can PEi let us please know like all part numbers etc or are the sprockets need to be welded on to the weld-on hubs bc there’s different like are you PEi guy in video ment to say weld on hub and weld on sprockets or do they already come as a one peace ya know what I’m saying here also what does a thrush washer look like ???? 2:03
Nvm about the sprockets I just figured that out after I said that comment now I’m only stuck on thrust washers so the sprockets n weld on hubs do need to be welded together first other then the thrust washers I have everything else figured out also how many of the thrust washers we need ??
Is the level of complexity much different for a 5 speed (maybe its a 6 can't remember) craftsman transmission? My ideal scenario is to replace the transaxle with a longer one and then put it in a golf cart.
Nova Scotian here. Do you have any info on lowering the hydro static fear end in the newer ( 2001 ) craftsmen’s 19 hp ?
How do you get your tires to stay on I am doing the same thing
I'm going to do something similar but I'm going to keep the travel reverser I'm just building up a fun go-kart
Good day from Ontario. Interesting video. So the way u r doing it u said 6.5 gar ratio.
Do u know what the gear ratio would be on normal riding tractor ?
U said parts from Princess auto, CDN Thanks .
Did you change the input shaft from a splined to a keyed shaft? I am trying to figure out how to do that right now. Thanks.
Thanks for putting this together...very informative! So when building an MTD tractor for racing, is the variable speed pulley left as part of the drivetrain?
Thanks. And no, the variable speed pulley is not used. We use a centrifugal clutch and direct to the rear.
@@peilawntractorracingclubin7053 I used a stock trans exact to this one and a 1" bore CVT and a 212cc clutch pulley on the trans, and I hit 12mph using a small mower belt to drive it! It's a rear engine Murray
Everything I've seen about these trans, everyone says they are junk, and on all the other builds, they always say get away from the chain it is a bomb waiting to go off. I have 2 of these I was going to use, but now am very curious. How did this hold up?
And what would you do differently?
Is it possible to do this modification and keep the reverse option?
Can I purchase one from you ready to go?
Nice video,I learned a lot, thanks Jeff
Have you ever done a similar thing to a peerless 5 speed unit? It looks like you could completely remove the entire reduction gear assembly and run a keyed shaft in the rear and a sprocket and chain from the gearbox output to the rear axle.
It’s something I want to try out, I don’t like overdriving the crap out of everything to go faster, it just ruins the transaxle
What do you do about brakes? Can the stock setup be utilized or will you need to install a rotor on the axle and mount a caliper? Any pics would a help as I'll be building one asap
Is that input shaft stock? Because mine has splines on it
Hi where can you buy the kit
Nice! Now how about a drive axle for independent suspension?
ide definitely fill with oil....cool home design right on.
Why would you not want to seal the gear case and add some oil in the to keep everything lubricated???
Could this handle a direct shaft drive from a motorcycle engine it will only have 25hp but im trying to eliminate any belts or chains its for a mini rat rod build 👍🏻
could I be able to keep the reverse gear, or would it not fit
Hey do you choose to change the gearing inside the transaxle as opposed at the input shaft? I am build a mild mower for one event am using a 719 axel
What kind of speed are you seeing with these ratios? Also what tire size?
How do you get a keyway on the small sprocket
Great video! Couple questions. What do you use for wheel hubs? And do you change the input pulley size?
is there any reason you couldn't put in both bevel gears and the selector so that it still has forward and reverse, provided that you get them shimmed correctly?
Pretty sure you have to delete reverse on most racing mowers
There is no reason reverse has to be removed... He just has no use for it and it's always there being a source of parasitic drag but it would actually be less work to keep the "reverse" which happens to be the original forward gear because the chain drive reverses the whole thing...
@@ianbuilds7712 I have personally seen the reverse chain fly through the case and lock up the transaxle
@@legendary_perfomance the reason standard transaxle reverse chains explode is usually (99%) a function of extreme wear on the reverse sprocket itself (due to extreme neglect at extreme speeds) causing misalignment. Everyone knows a chain spinning opposite all its neighboring gears really aught be aligned.. for everyone's sake... one of the many benefits of doing it this way with this trans is that there is no reverse chain it works a lot like a peerless mst reverse where it's actually 2 opposing input bevel gears and if you really think about it that is actually the one reason this chain drive conversion can work because of the simple fact that a chain driven shaft spins opposite a gear drive..
Otherwise to do this he'd have to flip the transaxle over...
That must be a very very old transaxle, not common. With 1 fwd , neutral and Reverse only ?
Do you have another bevel gear on the top end that is connected to the input that spins the one on the bottom?
My mtd lawn tractor has the same gearbox. I took of the big rear pulley stuck to the gearbox and the pulley and shaft have a whole different pattern. It has 36 teeth with a converter with a six stat slot where the pulley goes. I cant find any other pulleys with the 6 star slot. I need a keyway shaft. Your shaft was as mine in the start of the video but in the end it was different. Can you tell me what you do with the shaft to make keyway pulleys fit
Do any of you know if the bolt holes on the transaxle would bolt on to a craftsman
Ur video is great. I'd say the best so far for this type of diy or retro-fitting ..Very simple for diy..excellent for young and old alike...On your next video. Could u put ur cam on a tripod. The constant rapid movements of camra is very distracting . And repeat tapping on the subject material doesn't help with hearing ur narration.. I still give you (A+) I'm doing fiberglass over riding mower mods that look like cars, pickups,Van's and big rigs.. your diy just solved several drive train issues..
This was my first video, so its very new to me. But thank you for the pointers, I will definitely work on that fir the next one!
@@peilawntractorracingclubin7053 wow your just getting around to looking at your comments...
Do you know what the stock ratio is for these transaxles before this conversion?
Mantap bang saya juga lagi bikin go kart 😁👍🙏
Do you have to shift still or does it just start moving like a go kart when you rev up the engine?
The mower will not move until you let out the clutch. with this conversion you have forward only and the axle is fully locked.
This unit is used with a centrifugal clutch. In racing we use only one forward gear.
Have you ever done this to a mtd 2 speed ? It has high low and reverse wondering if it would be possible
Pulled one of these eith the 1 inch shafts for the same thing. Can't be much difference
Is there a way to still keep n and reverse?
Can you do this with a two speed??
I have this same trans. It's forward and reverse only
Sorry for the strange question, but...
Is there a hydrostatic riding lawnmower transmission that is 13 inches long? Or wide? Or is there a transmission that I can cut down to 13 inches?
What I am trying to do is build a galloping goose railcar. 5 inch scale 15 inch wide track.
Im using a Briggs and stratton 17 hp motor and a riding lawnmower frame.
I want to try to use the transmission to have forward and reverse.
Also do you gotta use a clutch when you do this?
When you push in the brake on the mower and disengage the belt it won’t engange the rear end. So the pedal on the mower will be only thing keeping it from going
@NuBz it’s a clutch and brake dawg. You know how mowers work?
@NuBz they don’t just roll until they come to a stop 😂
This unit is used with a centrifugal clutch.
I have a 719 transaxle currently ordering my parts soon. I have a question, will I need to remove the input shaft from the case or get a new one? Also what are the size and length on your keyed shafts, viewing bmicarts they vary to 4.5 - 16) 3/4 with cut to length. Thanks for the video!
Input shafts and gears vary somewhat from model to model. Although all are 5/8 input shafts, some are machined down to 1/2" on each end. I prefer the full size shaft as the keyway in the 1/2" is very small and likely to fail with any amount of power.
I use 3ft keyed axle shaft from Princess Auto.
The 719 will not have provisions for ball bearings.
@@peilawntractorracingclubin7053 Alrighty thanks, I'll take this information and see what I can do with finding the proper length - size at princess auto, are you saying for the 719 model, they won't accept the ball bearings? Did all your keyed axle shafts come straight from princess auto;
@@jordon756 axles are available at Princess Auto. You'll see when you open up the case, the 719 model isn't machined to accept bearings like the 717.
What Diameter is the axle shafts?
Way cool 👍
What is the diameter of your rear tires ?
I like the set up but is it for the stock rears or tiny kart wheels ?
It is used with 18" Turf tires
So this is clutch less I assume?
Yes, you'll need a torque converter or a centrifugal clutch on the engine
Can this be done and still have reverse?
I'm going to go ahead and say yes, I see no reason you would have to delete reverse gear it shouldn't be in the way and because it's gear driven its strong. Guys delete the chain driven reverse found in other transaxles because it's bound to break.
How much would you charge for a kit and I would install it in the rear end?
buy the parts off of e bay and figure it out. worst thing is dragging all the nasty old grease out of it.... lots of rags and a cardboard box to throw the rags into. i wud put STP oil treatment in the gearbox before final sealing up. up to the bottom of the axle shafts so the oil doesnt leak out of the axle shafts.... STP OIL TREATMENT is generally tooooo thick to leak out of axle shaft. oil /grease the input needle bearings too on the input shaft tower as they need oil/grease. 2 of the 1/2" collars with allen head set screws blue thread lock on final assembly on those grub screws when u get it all together finally. the part # he gave for the bearings is ... are 12mm or 1/2"... axles are 3/4" or 1" on the HD models. so need 3/4" bearings for the axle if have 3/4" axle shafts... or 25mm/ 1" bearings for 1" axle shafts. they are made in the US so the axles should be US standards????
How.much for one of these
Does anyone know if this trans axle will fit on a John Deere L108
Buenas donde se puede comprar ese kit
which bevel gear did you use f or r
Either. They are both the same.
If you eliminate the reverse how do you back up?
You dont
@@DieselRamcharger I had a feeling that was your answer. Good luck out there
Can I buy 1 from you
With this work for a Murray transaxle
that brass input gear is not going to be too happy without OIL IN IT... STP OIL TREATMENT up to the bottom of the axle shafts with some gear oil in it too. the gear oil will leak out of the axle shafts.... maybe not so much with the axle bearings that need to be regreased with REAL GREEEN/ RED GREASE so they last forever as the packing greease is the cheapest grease they can get away with putting in there to keep them from rusting on the boat from china. pry out the seals and pack in real US GREEN/RED grease and put seals back in. a good coating of green red grease on gears wud help too i suppose along with the STP oil treatment... liquid grease.
Check out this other video of mine to see one of these rears in action!!
ua-cam.com/users/shorts9Zw1oBrgWw8?feature=share
So you lose the differential ability and you lose
Racing vehicles usually use no differential anyway lol
Walker Mark Williams Jose Williams Cynthia
1 vid in 3 years. hahahhaha