AWT (APPLIED WEAPONS TECHNOLOGY) SCALES, FLYTANIUM CAGE, SPRING/BALL UPGRADE INSTALL ON MANIX 2!!!!!
Вставка
- Опубліковано 23 сер 2024
- MANIX 2: amzn.to/4bVdLJG
AWT (APPLIED WEAPONS TECHNOLOGY) SCALES:
appliedweapons...
POCKET CLIP:
www.lynchnw.co...
LANYARD TUBE REMOVAL TOOL
www.sharpdress...
FLYTANIUM CAGE:
www.flytanium....
SPRING/BALL UPGRADE:
www.knivesplus...
TOOLS AND MATERIALS I USE:
Wiha T6 Screwdriver - amzn.to/48zwNSI
Wiha Stubby - amzn.to/3wwgyJ5
Work Sharp Precision Adjust Elite - Adjustable Knife Sharpening System - For Hunting, Serrated & Kitchen Knives - amzn.to/3Ie88sn
Work Sharp Guided Field Sharpener, Compact Travel - amzn.to/49tnPrr
WORKPRO 24-in-1 Precision Screwdriver, Pen Style Multi-Bit Screwdriver - amzn.to/3UV8rzE
Knife Pivot Lube Original Oil for Blades - amzn.to/42SUAfp
KPL KNIFE SHIELD - Corrosion Preventive Knife Cleaner Food Safe Protectant for Preventing Rust and Degreaser Oil Polisher skin-friendly Water Based Cleanser - amzn.to/3wBUs84
Super Lube (big bottle)- amzn.to/3TfbEZI
Super Lube (small needle tip applicator) - amzn.to/48sWLHG
Disposable Micro Applicators Brush - amzn.to/42VbJox
CPB Silicone Soldering Repair Mat, Heat Resistant Work Mat - amzn.to/3UYvycU
Dahle Vantage 10690 Self-Healing Cutting Mat, 9"x12", 1/2" Grid, 5 Layers for Max Healing - amzn.to/3T3dGem
Liquid Loctite Blue 242 - amzn.to/3IgeO9j
LOCTITE 248 Blue Thread locker Glue Stick - amzn.to/49xa1Mz
If you would like to donate to the channel it would be much appreciated. spot.fund/dcz86sc
Like, comment, subscribe, and hit the notification bell now and never miss a slice of the action!!
(All links above are Amazon Affiliate links)
oh man, scales are so important. I never even thought of a manix 2 because of it's looks, but with these on and the deep clip, it's whole other beast!
Yeah man, these upgrades are amazing for the manix. They completely change the knife for the better!
Dude this video saved me trying to figure out how to put this knife back together. Such a challenging one, thanks for the video!
Glad it helped brother!! Thanks!
The original spring keeps that ball in place better, i like my fingers lol. Nice scales man.. i need some for mine
Lol, your fingers will never have to get in the way of the blade on a manix when closing. But yes, the light spring is pretty light. I love it. The AWT scales are a must. Some of the best scales on the market.
I love my manix with these scales. Completely changes the knife for the better
I agree!! These scales are out of this world!! Thanks for watching 😁
Awesome! Just ordered cobalt black AWT scales for my Shaman and will be ordering for my Manix 2 also. Your Manix looks great! Thanks for sharing brother! 👍
You will love the scales! AWT makes quality stuff, and I stand by that. Great American made company. Thanks man! I'm still an amateur behind the camera but I'm sure with time I'll get better haha
Thanks for watching! 🫡
Just ordered this color for my salt. Hope it looks as good on a satin blade with black hardware
Awesome!! I think it will!! I just got the PM3 salt, dropping the video on it soon!! Stay tuned!!
I'd seen the Manix scales on AWT website, didn't pay them much mind. Watched your video and looked at them again carefully,,, reduces the weight by 1.5 . I love AWT scales anyway so I might have to make this happen. Many thanks for posting. 👍👍🔪
Right on! Thanks for watching!
Amazing video. The liner delete is soooo cool with these scales!
Thanks brother!! I agree!!
Great job on the install and video.
Thanks! It really helped watching your video of AWT scales install! I'm still an amateur, but hopefully I can get up to your speed one day 😁
Nice, bought the burnt bronze for a pm2,with a black liner and hardware,dlc Rex45 blade and it is fantastic 🎉 AWT makes some quality stuff. I’d your throat clearing a nervous tick or just thirsty……just curious. I have a buddy that does that a lot.✌🏼Oh,the pm2 weighs 3.4 oz.What’s that manix weigh now? I just might swap out a m4 blade from the bhq mint lw and get some awt scales with black hardware would be cool 🤔👍🏻
I was sick at the time of recording this video. Not sure about the current weight because a lot has changed on this knife which includes the scales, cage, ball and spring, and the clip.
the blue cage was an interesting choice...it works tho...id love to what the rest of the hardware looks like in blue...
Thanks! Ya I was wondering what it might look like with blue hardware as well, I might have to change that! Thanks for watching!
This is how the Manix 2 should be constructed instead of the lanyard tube holding the entire rear of the handle together. CQI it Spyderco!
I see on the AWT site the hardware package comes with barrel spacer and pivot tube plus screws. Does anyone know is this scales plus the hardware package will fit the new Lightweight manix 2 with screwdown removable scales. NOT the riveted version?
Wow! Mine are on order.
Awesome!!! Hope this helps!!
Loctite makes a stick that works amazing. Far better than the tube.
Ya, the tube is not great for applying in small applications. I'll have to check out the stick! Thanks!
First off, thanks a ton for making this video, I'd always heard it was a pain in the butt to disassemble the Manix 2 but after watching your video I realized it was not as hard as some make it out to be. Disassembly and re-assembly was the one thing keeping me from ordering the AWT Manix 2 scales. So I ordered them last week and they arrived today and I am installing them now as I watch this. Quick question though, it looks to me like the aftermarket deep carry clips stick out past the butt end of the knife, do you notice this at all while using the knife? I was going to use a stock clip for this reason, but if it doesn't affect use then I will def throw a deep carry clip on it. Thanks again man, without this video I would never have felt comfortable enough to order these scales.
That's so rad to hear man! I'm glad I could help you pull the trigger on these scales. The clip doesn't affect anything at all and gives me no problems. I love the deep carry on it. There might be some other clips for the manix that don't stick out as much if it's a problem, but I haven't looked. What color scales did you get? And ya, I'd say the trickiest thing on the install is getting the cage back in
@@KnifeFanatic I got the FDE cerakote colored scales, and with my Knifecenter DLC Cruwear blade it's been damn near perfect. This knife now hasn't left my pocket since the scale swap, and the Manix is now challenging the Para 3 as my favorite/most used Spyderco. Everyone said the Manix was super difficult to disassemble but it really wasn't that much more difficult than any other Spydie I've taken apart. But these have been by far the best aftermarket scales I've ever had, AWT def rocks.
Question is…. Is the that aluminum cage and ceramic ball stronger than the stock… Can the aluminum cage break? What about wear and tear in the ceramic ball or can it crack unlike steel ?
I guarantee you nobody will be using a manix that hard to be able to break the cage. Stock or aftermarket with the aluminum cage. You might as well use a fixed blade if you are doing any work hard enough to potentially break the action of a folder. If you want, flytanium also makes titanium cages, which is stronger than the aluminum and stock cage. The ceramic ball in the cage, since it's not in a very tight spot like how ceramic bearings are, is trivial. It is, however, much stronger than steel balls. Plus, it is completely corrosion resistant. And it's lighter. It's kinda just a nice to have thing. If we were talking about bearings, yes, I would endorse ceramic bearings over steel 100%. But in this case, the cage ball doesn't really matter. I really like the feel of the aluminum cage over the plastic. And the spring makes the action so much better.
Do you know if these would fit the Manix 2 LW? AWT’s website says no but I think they’re referring to the riveted version, not the CQI version that has removable hardware… thanks for the video.
To be honest, I'm not sure. After looking at some forums, it looks like they won't fit the CQI. You might call/email AWT and ask to verify. Best advice I could give lol. I think AWT has future plans for more knives like the CQI. That's a good question though!
Looks great….but dayyumm, adds $200 to the Spyderco price 😅. That’s uhhh, fanatical‼️☝️
Badum tsss, 😆 a bit pricey I agree, but if you have a manix and want to customize it, I definitely recommend these upgrades. I can't say enough how much more enjoyable these upgrades make the knife. It's also nice to have a knife that I customized to my liking that has some sentimental value to it that I can pass down to my son when he's old enough. Thanks for watching! 🤙🏽
@@KnifeFanatic ….Was contemplating my 1st Spyderco (the Manix)…always avoided the Spyderco look, though Manix and Shaman look better.…but now afraid I’d go down that rabbit hole of mods, which tends to make my stuff safe queens 🤷🏻♂️
@Roadracer QX ya my pm2 and especially manix aren't really for heavy use. Just everyday, light tasks. I'd get a shaman, leave it stock, and probably wouldn't mind using it for more heavy-duty tasks. They look like they could stand up to some good abuse. Tank of a knife.
@@KnifeFanatic ….Stock Shaman might be the way to go for me, unless I get lucky and find a Manix with action smooth enough to not bug me into modding. And the Shaman appears to come apart easier, lol.
@Roadracer QX Yeah, the spring/ball kit is probably the most essential and useful upgrade. It's the most affordable one as well. The tension of the factory spring is too much, but with the upgrade, the tension is perfect.
I just got mome assembled and for the life of me cannot get it to drop shut or even smooth drop wothout there being an unacceptable amount of blade play. Any thoughts? How os the nlade play on yours?
Not sure, mine has no blade play, I used Loctite on the pivot.
Good video. Do you still have the light spring in?
Thanks! Ya, I'm never going back to the stock spring lmfao
silly question can you tell me what mat you are using the blue one. and a link to get one?
Not silly at all!!
www.amazon.com/Kaisi-Insulation-Soldering-Maintenance-Electronics/dp/B073RFB6BX/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1MRHL90H1V1HP&keywords=s-130+blue+silicone+mat&qid=1687752341&sprefix=s-130+blue+silicone+ma%2Caps%2C135&sr=8-2
What color are those? Looks great
Burnt bronze! 😁
Spyderco Manix never interested me. After changing the scales - the best looking EDC in design and functionality!
That's awesome to hear! Glad you like your manix! 😁
Any blade play? I’ve seen a few AWT that end up not so tight so I’m holding off on them.
I can check when I get home from work and post a video for you to show you. I haven't touched the pivot since I installed the scales. But I don't recall any blade play since the install.
@@KnifeFanatic thanks man, I appreciate it. I have mine fully stock but thinking of the flytanium ball cage and awt scales but only if it keeps the action and zero blade play.
No blade play at all. Rock solid. #cutlery #outdoors #knife #knifeskills #pocketknife #titaniumknife
@@ToRo909r I recommend to loctite the pivot as well.
Looks amazing
Thanks! It's one of my top favorites!!
If changing the scales, you don’t need to remove the lanyard tube cause you’re not using it.
You just leave the barrel tube out?
Ya, it doesn't fit the scales. You can still run a lanyard through the holes if you want
Will these scales work on the lightweight manix?
They do not fit the lightweight manix.
I'd that cerakote or anodized? I want to get a pair of anodized for my manix 2 but can't decide on a color!
Cerakote! 😁
Got a set of scales, and it seems to have made it stiff and not fall closed. Could i have done something wrong?
Have you tried reinstalling the software and cycling power? 😆
Lol, but I would probably take it all apart, visually inspect all parts and make sure everything is copacetic, and put it back together. I don't know what your knowledge or experience is with knives, but here are a few tips. Make sure all the screws are threading in correctly. Don't torque down all the screws until you have them all in place. Think of it like bolting on the lugs of a wheel. You don't want to torque them down in a circular pattern. You want to do a star shape. Reason being, it could seat the wheel unevenly. Same concept applies to knives. I'd try to torque all the screws in the knife as evenly as possible. I'd also say to make sure that you orientate the washers the same way they were from the factory. The reason behind this, is because after operating the action over a period of time, it creates a "track" in the washers and if you install them in the opposite way, it could create a binding effect. Make sure the knife is cleaned and lube is applied to the pivot/washers. These are really the only tips I can give you, without actually looking at the knife in my hands. Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions!
-KF
@knifefanatic3251 Putting it in rice didn't seem to work. I took it all apart and put everything together gently, and tightened everything eventually. Still is stiff. It's smooth, just not fall shut as it was before. I'm not sure if something is getting pinched or not.
@richardrounce7138 they are AWT scales, correct? Just keep working the action for a few days, and if it doesn't break in, I would probably hit up awt, and tell them what's going on, and see if they can exchange them.
@knifefanatic3251 Yeah, AWT scales. I took a really good look at the lock moving. It seems the ball cage is slightly turned rotational wise, which is rubbing on the blade.
I know some people cut the spring shorter to reduce the tension, have you considered that?
Cutting a spring will not reduce its tension. The tension in a spring is determined by its spring constant, which is a physical property of the spring material and is not affected by the spring's length.
When you cut a spring, you are reducing its length, but the amount of force required to compress or stretch the spring to a certain length will remain the same. This is because the spring constant, which is a measure of the stiffness of the spring, is determined by the material and the cross-sectional area of the wire used to make the spring.
Good question though! 👍🏼
@Knife Fanatic that's good to know, thank you for sharing. I have a manix ordered, love spyderco knives, but this will be my first time using a manix
@David Brown Of course man! Yeah I'd say the light spring and ball kit from knives plus (link in the description) is definitely an essential upgrade for the manix. It's probably the cheapest, too. Makes the knife so much more enjoyable.
@@KnifeFanatic flytanium makes a really cool tritium lock tab I want to get, and I'm definitely getting the awt scales, so I'll definitely check that out. Appreciate it
@David Brown That tritium cage is cool, no problem man!
Where does the spring come from?
Knives Plus, the link to it is in the description. Really nice upgrade because I think the original spring is a bit too hard to pull. Makes it so much more enjoyable. 👍🏼
😊w
Hi 0:52 it's common knowledge in the gun community that springs don't wear by being left compressed, but by cycles of compression and decompression.
This is why if you leave a magazine full of ammo it doesn't wear the spring, but if you constantly fill up and empty a magazine, the spring will wear out eventually.
Same logic for the main spring of a gun.
I don't see why that would be any different here for this Manix 2, but I could be wrong !
Now, to wear out a spring such as a Manix 2 one should take a long while, but it's interesting to note that a lot of people report their Manix 2 getting easier to unlock with time... From what I've read people say use it for a week or two and then decide if you want to change the spring, what is your opinion on this ?
I recently got a 15V Manix which is extra hard to disengage and was wondering about these specific upgrades !
So after reading your comment and some other questions/comments regarding the spring, I decided to dive into it a little and do some research.
"When a spring is subjected to repetitive loading and unloading cycles, it experiences stress and strain. This repeated stress can cause microscopic changes within the spring material, such as dislocations and changes in crystal structure, which contribute to the wearing-in process.
During the wearing-in process, the spring may exhibit changes in its stiffness, load-bearing capacity, and other mechanical characteristics. These changes can result in improved performance and reliability of the spring over time.
When a spring remains compressed over time, it undergoes a phenomenon called relaxation. Relaxation refers to the gradual reduction in the spring's force or the loss of its initial deflection under a constant load. This can occur due to factors like material stress relaxation, cold flow, or plastic deformation.
The wearing-in process when a spring stays compressed typically involves a decrease in the spring's load-bearing capacity and stiffness. The prolonged compression can cause the spring material to slowly deform, leading to a loss of its original shape and an increase in its set. As a result, the spring may become less effective at exerting the desired force or may exhibit reduced resilience.
The degree of wearing-in due to extended compression depends on several factors, including the material properties of the spring, the applied load, the duration of compression, and the environmental conditions."
I've had my manix for about a year, and I expected it to break in a lot more than what it actually has. Because of this, it has led me to get an aftermarket spring/ball kit. If your action is hard to actuate, I recommend getting the aftermarket spring and ball kit that's linked in the description.
@@KnifeFanatic That's pretty interesting, I wouldn't be surprised if all springs wouldn't have the same behavior after extended compression... I will try to leave the Manix half open for a few days though.
The kit seems hard to get for me as I'm in France, we shall see mister, thanks for your reply !
@@HellGatefr2 Of course! I hope it works out for you! Enjoy! 🫡
@@KnifeFanatic Hey there, just in case you're curious since it's been 2 weeks. First of all it feels like leaving the knife open for a few days didn't do anything noticeable.
I did use the knife for those 2 weeks (without cleaning or adding any more lubricant than factory setting) and I noticed a difference after about 10 days of opening/closing until it basically hurt too much lol. The action started to get pretty nice, then yesterday I disassembled and cleaned it, one of the washer was a bit dirty and had a dark stain... I did put new oil (Ballistol, nothing fancy) on washers and in the ball bearing lock, and now it's pretty good imo, super easy to spydieflick and solid lock, it doesn't hurt unless fidgeting mindlessly, but the ball bearing lock spring is definitely not weak ! It's actually the most pleasant Spyderco that I have for doing the middle finger Spydieflick. This encourages me to view this knife as a tool, but not a "boring" one like an Endura...
It's extremely hard for me to close the knife using only the thumb though, but it is really needed anyway ?
Was considering getting some AWT scales or something, and also ordered a bunch of ceramic Si3N4 balls on a famous chinese website, costs literally 15ct/ball...
What is your opinion on ceramic balls and also is the aluminum ball cage lock holding up well compared to titanium ?
Thanks for reading my text lol, really appreciate your insight !
@HellGatefr2 a stock manix will definitely callus your fingers if you play with it a lot 🤣
One finger operation isn't necessary, but it's just nice to have with the lighter spring.
Ceramic balls will always be superior to steel balls (in my opinion). They are smoother, lighter, and stronger than steel. Also, they will never corrode. I don't think having a ceramic ball in the cage is essential, but it is nice. Since the steel cage ball isn't in such a tight space (compared to bearings), the action won't be as affected if it gets corroded. Ceramic caged bearings are the way to go, for any knives that are on bearings imo. Steel bearings are fine, you just have to make sure they stay clean and lubed.
I can't compare the aluminum cage to titanium because I've never had a titanium cage, but I would get the titanium if you have the money.
Thanks for the update!