Perfect timing again. Eventually took my rear subframe off on Friday, to do brake lines etc. Got a brand new OEM Ford subframe recently for a bargain at £70. Struggling yesterday with everything being siezed on the old subframe, so just ordered a complete new kit of the 6 arms, all bolts and anti roll bar bushes. Watching this video now this morning has been brilliant to allow me to remove more bits, so I can treat the chassis and tank areas for rust. Need to turn some 22mm bolts down this week during my break in work to help with re-fitting the subframe. I've even dug out my old Dunlop tracking gauges to give them the final alignment tweak on the cam-bolts until I take it to be tracked. I was going to take my Escort to a coffee meet this afternoon, but it's chucking it down here, so I'll just crack on with this now today. Again, brilliant vid. Please keep them coming, as they are helping so much 😁👍
If you are turning the 22mm bolts down to use as alignment pins for refitting the sub frame be aware there are 2 different diameter holes in the sub frame to ensure the pins will locate square. I had some pins made up on a lathe the diameters are 21mm and 27mm so the pin is more narrow at the end than locates into the chassis rail. Thanks for your support btw👍
@@mondeost220restorations9, OK, thank you. Will measure the depths. I've managed to do the anti roll bar and brackets this morning. All wire wheeled and painted now. First time I've used Nitro Mors paint, but it does go on really nice. Although subframe is new, I've Waxoiled all the joints on the upper side too for a bit of longevity. Will do rear brake lines Tuesday evening, as mate is coming round with his flaring kit.
Its a carbon canister and clean every spot weld under there regardless because a lot look fine....no visible signs of raised paint or rust but I found 40% had started rusting so cleaned the all 👍🏻 good work mate. Wanted to ask you about your rear brake calipers etc ...I need to watch your video again too.
Great work mate , just done the same on my MK3 2.5 V6 I advise using Jotun penguard epoxy primer underneath, have you any idea how the black plastic shroud comes out that sits with the fuel filler cap goes?
I haven't removed one yet but it look like you remove a plastic rivet behind the fuel filler flap then you'll have to remove the fuel flap release and the looks like you'd need to twist the hole thing to release. Removing the filler neck and wheel liner will make easier I think. Thanks for the support of the channel btw 👍
@@mondeost220restorations9 Hi just molded my st 220. Check my youtube sorts. Did your car come with this weird bung thing that doesn't match the recaros in the cup holder?
Excellent... Great information and explanation on the thorough work you are doing on the Mk3.
Cheers and thanks for supporting the channel 👍
Perfect timing again.
Eventually took my rear subframe off on Friday, to do brake lines etc.
Got a brand new OEM Ford subframe recently for a bargain at £70. Struggling yesterday with everything being siezed on the old subframe, so just ordered a complete new kit of the 6 arms, all bolts and anti roll bar bushes.
Watching this video now this morning has been brilliant to allow me to remove more bits, so I can treat the chassis and tank areas for rust.
Need to turn some 22mm bolts down this week during my break in work to help with re-fitting the subframe. I've even dug out my old Dunlop tracking gauges to give them the final alignment tweak on the cam-bolts until I take it to be tracked.
I was going to take my Escort to a coffee meet this afternoon, but it's chucking it down here, so I'll just crack on with this now today.
Again, brilliant vid. Please keep them coming, as they are helping so much 😁👍
If you are turning the 22mm bolts down to use as alignment pins for refitting the sub frame be aware there are 2 different diameter holes in the sub frame to ensure the pins will locate square. I had some pins made up on a lathe the diameters are 21mm and 27mm so the pin is more narrow at the end than locates into the chassis rail.
Thanks for your support btw👍
@@mondeost220restorations9, OK, thank you. Will measure the depths.
I've managed to do the anti roll bar and brackets this morning. All wire wheeled and painted now. First time I've used Nitro Mors paint, but it does go on really nice.
Although subframe is new, I've Waxoiled all the joints on the upper side too for a bit of longevity.
Will do rear brake lines Tuesday evening, as mate is coming round with his flaring kit.
Its a carbon canister and clean every spot weld under there regardless because a lot look fine....no visible signs of raised paint or rust but I found 40% had started rusting so cleaned the all 👍🏻 good work mate.
Wanted to ask you about your rear brake calipers etc ...I need to watch your video again too.
Love this channel❤
Great work mate , just done the same on my MK3 2.5 V6 I advise using Jotun penguard epoxy primer underneath, have you any idea how the black plastic shroud comes out that sits with the fuel filler cap goes?
I haven't removed one yet but it look like you remove a plastic rivet behind the fuel filler flap then you'll have to remove the fuel flap release and the looks like you'd need to twist the hole thing to release. Removing the filler neck and wheel liner will make easier I think.
Thanks for the support of the channel btw 👍
Your like the SAS of st220 lol
Ha ha I like it! More like boy scout tho really lol
Its a slow cheap car.
Probably embrassed to drive it
You EMBARRASSED about your spelling 😂😂😂
@@mondeost220restorations9 I was posting about a r32 golf but the video ended before I finished the comment and it got posted in this one.
@@mondeost220restorations9
Hi just molded my st 220.
Check my youtube sorts.
Did your car come with this weird bung thing that doesn't match the recaros in the cup holder?
Modded*