Brilliant vid again and useful. I'm actually back at the stage of being able to grip a spanner again, after a long injury layoff, so getting back onto my rear underside refurb tomorrow. Also have my alignment pins ready and made up on the lathe from your previous advice on diameters. I have a question now, having seen the way you've just measured your arms, before tightening. I was going to set my new subframe arms up all equal, as I'm also able to measure against my old one. However, my thought then was to get the car on the floor with the subframe re-fitted, then put a breeze block under each wheel to give me room to get underneath. I was then thinking of loosening off the 4 bolts for the arms and letting the car naturally settle overnight. Then torque the bolts up the following day. I was thinking that the arms are all then loaded to the natural height of a settled car. What's your line of thinking on this? Something to consider when going for Hunter 4 Wheel, is to weigh yourself first. Then, when they set the car up, the equivalent of your weight should be placed around the drivers seat. I've seen a few Fast Fit chains neglect to do this, but apparently a Tech should do this if attending a course with Hunter. Brilliant vids again and really looking forward to the subframe fit 👍
In short I just think it's best to bolt the arms to the frameas in the positions it was when it left the factory which in sure my original frame was considered the rusty bolts etc (previously cleaned up before filming). Glad yer on the mend and getting back to the spanners 🔧 😀 👍
Cheers Dunk, can't wait to get this thing back together and back on the road. You gunna buy that white ex police estate? Look forward to your next video 👍
Thank you, it means alot to receive your comments and apologies if I don't respond very quickly. If there's anything you think I can do to improve the channel please do let me know ok. Thanks again 👍
Hey, great videos! Do you do all the work by yourself? If you would buy a 200k mile ST220, what would be the first things that you would tackle ? Thanks and keep up with the good work! Cheers.
Great jerrrb
Brilliant vid again and useful.
I'm actually back at the stage of being able to grip a spanner again, after a long injury layoff, so getting back onto my rear underside refurb tomorrow.
Also have my alignment pins ready and made up on the lathe from your previous advice on diameters.
I have a question now, having seen the way you've just measured your arms, before tightening.
I was going to set my new subframe arms up all equal, as I'm also able to measure against my old one. However, my thought then was to get the car on the floor with the subframe re-fitted, then put a breeze block under each wheel to give me room to get underneath. I was then thinking of loosening off the 4 bolts for the arms and letting the car naturally settle overnight. Then torque the bolts up the following day.
I was thinking that the arms are all then loaded to the natural height of a settled car.
What's your line of thinking on this?
Something to consider when going for Hunter 4 Wheel, is to weigh yourself first. Then, when they set the car up, the equivalent of your weight should be placed around the drivers seat. I've seen a few Fast Fit chains neglect to do this, but apparently a Tech should do this if attending a course with Hunter.
Brilliant vids again and really looking forward to the subframe fit 👍
In short I just think it's best to bolt the arms to the frameas in the positions it was when it left the factory which in sure my original frame was considered the rusty bolts etc (previously cleaned up before filming).
Glad yer on the mend and getting back to the spanners 🔧 😀 👍
Nice thorough job as always mate 👏🏻👏🏻
Thanks, if you've got any idea's or suggestions on improving the channel please do let me know ok. Glad you're enjoying the channel 👍
Good vid as usual m8 loos gator fresh which I personally think is awesome keep it up 👍👍
Cheers Dunk, can't wait to get this thing back together and back on the road.
You gunna buy that white ex police estate?
Look forward to your next video 👍
Do a video on where the intake pipes go and which ones are likely to fail
Great work mate
Thank you, it means alot to receive your comments and apologies if I don't respond very quickly. If there's anything you think I can do to improve the channel please do let me know ok. Thanks again 👍
Hey, great videos! Do you do all the work by yourself? If you would buy a 200k mile ST220, what would be the first things that you would tackle ? Thanks and keep up with the good work! Cheers.
Thanks. I would first have a good look underneath at the rear in particular for corrosion and then check the engines big end bearings for wear.
@@mondeost220restorations9Thanks! By the way, what about the chains and chain tensors, is it true that they last for many miles?
@@flavioc5389 yes, as long as there are no rattles coming from that area they should be fine