Thanks to all the commenters who confirmed the blob pauses in vase mode can be stopped by disabling power out recovery and/or reformatting the card. Some more details on the printer: Standard acceleration is set to 2800 mm/sec for print and travel moves, with jerk set to 20 for X/Y/Z. My speed 3dbenchy upped this to 8K and 20, with the layer shifted failure being 160 mm/sec feedrate everywhere, 10K acceleration and 30 for jerk.
It's good seeing how far FLSUN has come, you can tell they are genuinely passionate about making a decent product, especially in the delta space, I hope they keep it up.
I am interested in the printer, but got distracted by the foldable Artoo-Deetoo, fetched and sliced it right away, got it started printing, missed the rest of the review - I will watch it again later.
Its always so cool to see the little shoutouts to #SpeedBoatRace, and seeing myself in the videos haha. Thanks again Michael, it's always great talking to you
Can’t wait to hear your thoughts on getting Klipper going and how it performs once tuned. Just got my shipment notification for my SR and will most likely be putting Klipper on as well
HAH I was right :D have a bowl sitting on my workbench looking exactly the same. ua-cam.com/video/Qi7QX1QhxuQ/v-deo.html THe issue is that the printer stops for a second to write on the sd card the part were it could use the power recovery. B3vd has a nice prusa slicer macro to toggle it.
@@polychoron your question is legit, but this is a known issue with marlin and only happens in vase mode. Have a look at Brians Video, he explains it way better than I am possible to do.
Back in my day, the reason my delta would pause was because it couldn't do delta calculations fast enough on circular objects. This was because the screen had a fan animation that was taking up too much processing power and it would stutter the printer
I have the slightly smaller FLSUN QQ and I love it. It's my first printer and I loved how easy it was to assemble and start printing right away. 4 months later my only complaint is the way the spool holder feeds the extruder, it's a sharp angle and is starting to wear a groove increasing friction
Bought mine two weeks ago. Definitely worth it. The reliability, quality at speed, features at cost, just general value make this printer a no Brainer right now, and for folks looking for Delta a great smaller option than say an Anycubic Predator which is currently sold out.
Thanks for your hard work! I'm sure reviewing new printers has gotten pretty tedious over time, but it's nice to see an honest, thorough review of the latest offerings every once in a while.
It is tedious unfortunately. This one was one of the good ones. Many of these prints were done at the same time as the CR-10 Smart which was a disaster.
Woohoo, great review. The blobbing is meant to be fixed as far as I know.. formatting the card sorts it it as well from seeing other reviews. I like this printer and look forward to your upgrade vids 👍
I have this printer and I like it a lot. I'm new to 3d printing so I can't add anything except that I don't have that stopping issue. Someone on UA-cam said to format the SD card so I did that before my first print. I'd also think you'd want a card with a good transfer rate - or disable PLP in gcode as others suggest.
I like how I'm not even watching most of these since I might consider the printers in the future (mainly due to the price points), but rather because I just like the videos. Not just the review videos, but almost all of them.. it's magic :p
Thanks for the review! I already have one (with the Nano board) and I am quite pleased with it. Very much looking forward to seeing the upgrades you choose. I will likely follow suit.
It's not perfect but it's pretty good. Regardless of the company, country of origin or expectations, my goal is to give credit where it's due and constructive criticism also.
A really great review Michael! You nailed the processes in order to go fast on a stock machine… This makes me want to get my hands on this one and I really like the probing method here.
I was hoping this video would have come out BEFORE I pulled the trigger and bought one. BUUUT I am glad that I did purchase this when it was on sale for $409 US. The machine is really sound. Louder than would be liked retractions solved by slowing down the retraction settings in cura. I did have some ringing from the Facebook groups setting for cura 4.10 I slowed them down to 2k from 3k and even on the fast settings (150mm/s) I was able to receive fairly decent prints. The issue is when trying to dial in the extruder and flow rate. The values given from the teaching tech website should be used as a starting point (especially flow) where the extruder goes from stock of 410 to 453 steps and the flow comes down from 100 to 83.11. I have to do more fine tuning for this. Hoping to get her all settled in and able to hit print and walk away.
I audibly gasped when I saw the Delta on your desk, I was lookin in the background trying to find a small printer because I've never seen a successful LARGE delta printer before. Holy smokes that's impressive, and reasonably priced I think. At that price point I'd likely just buy a second CR6 but if I had a burning curiosity for Deltas and a few extra hundreds burning a hole in my pocket I'd go for this one.
Interesting printer. I've had heard the same thing with a buffer/"writing to the SD-card of where the G code is at this print time"- Thanks for sharing your experiences with all of us :-)
Although to follow your reviews of I have to help with the automatic translation of the Italian text I always find them very professional and true and this is an aspect that I do not find in the vast majority of people who try to imitate you. In fact, about 10 days ago I bought the Creality CR-10 Smart printer following a review seen on the net and as you can well imagine the disappointment was total. I realize that asking you which model to buy to have a professional and accurate product would be difficult given the large number of printers around. Perhaps compared to many other people I was lucky in that having purchased it through Amazon I was able to request a refund and in these days I will send it to the sender. I have heard that new models will come out in a few months and I would be grateful if, even if in private you could direct me to one in particular. Everyone tells me not to waste time and buy the Prusa immediately but now I'm scared and I don't know what to do. Thanks bye.
Not sure if you saw but I recently reviewed the CR-10 Smart and I agree with you that is was very disappointing. In terms of Prusas, my MK3 was great out of the box and continues to perform well. My Mini was an early order and had quite a few issues. By now I would expect the + version to have everything sorted.
I see that most of the comments are a year old or more, so thought I'd chime in having recently purchased an SR. Here are a few comments, in no particular order: 1. I'm still using Simplify3d, and it took quite some effort to create a profile that provided both good speed and quality. Infill in particular was a challenge, the stock profiles for both S3D and Cura move too fast and infill becomes inconsistent and bumpy. 2. Using S3D, I found that the filament runout detection logic wasn't working. Long story short, it's because the profile used relative extrusion rather than absolute. This is an easy change in S3D, and once set the detection (and recovery) works great. 3. I made two mods -- one to improve the airflow with a set of replacement ducts off Thingiverse, the other to add a steel magnetic PEI bed. Both mods are great. 4. I'm still not convinced that it's possible to set it up to read GCODE files from a USB stick. Others have stated there's a version of the firmware that supports this, but I've yet to find it. 5. FLSun tech support is non-responsive. I've sent both emails and messages via their website asking for information on the USB stick firmware thing, they have never responded. 6. The printer does only so-so on small details, particularly if you try to push the speed at all. I'm finding it all too common for the little stuff to be distorted, under-extruded or not printed at all. Probably due to the Bowden feed. All in all, I still like this printer, but it's not magical. Work within its limitations (nowhere near 200mm/sec) and all will be ok. Try to move too fast and quality suffers severely. BTW, I noticed they stopped advertising 250mm/sec. Finally, the print volume is not exactly as advertised. Yes, you can print an object that is 330mm high, but don't expect it to be 260mm across at the top. More like a conical shape up there. It's a good value, and nicely built. I'd buy it again, but with my expectations a bit lower.
I can confirm that the blobs seen in vase mode where the programm pauses for a short time are no longer an issue. I got my unit 1 week ago and ordered it a month ago. It seems the fixed the firmware/SD card formatting... I think it is only a problem for earlier/review units.
Pretty good. But FLsun is STILL another manufacture that isn't learning from past experiences. Previous reviews of their previous models show that the blobs are caused by 1 of 2 things (depending on the reviewer) 1. The resume feature (as you stated) - switching it off makes the blobs go away. 2. The supplied SD card - some reviews say changing the card for a better one got rid of them. They shouldn't rely on the SD card for writes. What they really need is a low power memory chip with long life battery-backup on the main board.
I really like my Flsun q5: after calibrating the extruder which is highly recommended by users in the FB group. That FB group being the only support I could find is really my only complaint. The SR would be my next printer if I was not really intrigued with your Voron. I will be watching to see if your upgrades change my mind. Definitely looking forward to what you are able to achieve!!
@@brianadams7903 the facebook group is really where you should head for these printers! I also upgraded from the Q5 to the SR and the machine is definitely way more capable in all areas. I'm working on a mod to fit a Dragon HF hotend on the original carriage and that will be posted on the group
Very nice that it uses a more standard SKR board. I wonder if the usage of Klipper will complicate things a bit, since it will probably disable the ability to use the touchscreen.
Never gonna buy one but it's very refreshing to see a china printer doing things right for once and improving their products! I had an old QQ that was a piece of junk that ultimately led me to designing my first all original printer after it got pulled apart for it's parts.
I’m def interested in this printer especially since the only delta I own the sad slot on the board stopped working... it’s a min delta that I love but is a expensive paper weight at the moment
So glad you finally got a delta!!!! Looking forward to seeing you put klipper on it! Is this the only sub $500 printer that can do a quality 15 minute benchy out of the box?
Just in case you didn't see them, I had series on making a Monoprice Mini Delta cordless and portable, plus a video on a Tevo Little Monster. I agree that I am lacking delta videos compared to others though. In terms of price vs performance it's up there. The ringing is prominent once you turn up the speed/acceleration though.
@@TeachingTech Thanks, I'll look into them. I'd love to see klipper input shaping on a delta, there seems to be very few videos on that. And if you do upgrade to more powerful steppers, you could find the acceleration limiting factor before upgrading the hot end for more speed? It'd be a great video series!
Awesome review as always! Just a heads up that Super Racer Support will be coming officially in Cura 4.11, myself and Guislain have got the profiles up. I missed the 4.10 merge window by a couple of days trying to solve some queries with FLSun :(
Sorry for the totally off topic comment. I just converted to sensor less homing on my Ender 3 V2 with Skr e3 rrf running Marlin, and a BL touch. I know you did a video on crash / stall detection during a print, and I thought I remembered something else that had to be set up for the crash detection. I can't for the life of me find the video. I'm pretty sure it was for Marlin, not RepRap. Could you please direct me to the correct video? As always, thank you for the immense help you always provide. ps, I had quite the laugh watching someone else's video making some absurd comments about you Michael. I somehow refrained commenting on that/those videos as I did not want to stir the pot. I hope he gets the mental help he needs, it has to be awful living that way.
about time you've gone a FLSUN, i love my QQS Pro and it can go quick as well. too bad that Design Prototype test dude is going to get a bit of butthurt as he reviewed this a few months ago....queue the "copying me" rant
On my Ender 3 V2 I MUST turn off power recovery or I get blobs in vase mode. I had to install custom firmware to do that (Jyers). And yes I tried the fastest SD Card I could buy. This is a well known issue with speed writing to the SD Card at least for the Ender boards.
Bought this printer a few weeks ago, largely based on the strength of this review. Quality, so far, has been a bit disappointing! Part cooling is definitely an issue with the “normal” profile. Ringing is much worse than shown in the review, and barely tolerable when using the higher-speed “normal” profile. I have to wonder if the printer sent for review was cherry-picked as being one of the better models. Still happy with the purchase; it’s just going to take some work to get the machine dialed-in to the point where it works as well as the one in the review.
Been using PLA at 220 and 60 for heat...after auto leveling and zeroing the z I've noticed on most prints it still scrapes and I have to adjust the z while printing...
It looks like a great machine. I think I will try this one out (next to my trusty Ender 5). I noticed however in other reviews that not all models seem to have the original SKR mainboard, but some FLsun produced clone. I don't know if that's really true, and if it has impact on the quality. If that's the case, it's maybe a good idea to install the latest SKR model in this printer (and maybe make some video about it?). Anyway - Nice review. I noticed that Klipper update on this channel too. I do not know enough about Klipper and all the configuration abilities it has to know if it's worthwhile. Maybe I will have to delve some deeper into Klipper.
8:00 I heard that PETG is exceptionally unsuitable for faster printers, as it has a very slow flow rate. That when printing with fast printers, ABS is preferred as it has a much better flow rate. Do you think this might be the issue?
Has anyone made a 3d printer motherboard with a raspberry pi integrated into the board to get rid of communication issues by not having to use cables thatre affected by electrical noise at some degree.
Can You make A Marker And Eraser holder on Onshape plz I really need it in school it’s part of my project to make one so Plz can you show me how to make on Onshape.🥺
1st day of printing seemed fine, then it slowly started getting worse for me. It started blobbing everything, test cubes look horrible or it picks the print off the bed. level looks fine but cannot produce a good result anymore. Im close to giving up.
If someone has a second I have a question When using these new brosilicate glass beds does petg filament stick to the bed and if so does it release when the bed cools? I have heard horror stories of petg sticking too well to a glass bed but cant find anything on these new coated glass style beds
Hello, I have one of the new revisions, with the USB drive support. (finally no more micro sd cards) I'm having trouble tuning linear advance on this printer, it does behave very erratically and I don't know what I'm missing, maybe I set the max acceleration wrong? Anyway Waiting for your Clipper video as I have a PI4 laying around, but I would like to be able to revert at any time
Ok maybe there's a vid somewhere out there/here but I can't seem to find it. But I had to replace my Flsun SR complete extruder and hotend, and I've heard the if doing something like that I'd have to do some calibration adjustments. So, do you have a vid or know of a vid just for the Flsun SR? Plus my SR is stock, will I need to replace the mainboard or install Keppler or marlin to adjust or change the M-codes that I see everyone seems to be doing on here?
Idk if you'll see this. But is it possible to make a test print or a a tool to create a file on your website that people can enter values or something to see how well their printer can print print in place things and have them move afterwards? I hope I worded this correctly. So that way people can tune the printer with a simple file to see if they can do PiP without spending 10 hours on a print to find it fused together.
Nice video,i have this printer i also use the quality and fast profile from the factory cura 4.4, i downgrade the firmware to version 1.0 , the printer always work perfect. Better slow with good quality profile compare fast with some bad area. The ringing and ghosting is very bad if we use fast profile. I am waiting for your modification. Thanks
Hey Mike, great video. I had the clone SKR board, but have been having several issues with the clone elements and found that the stock firmware had no thermal runaway on the bed *found while using octoprint, so i'm glad there are a few firmwares knocking about where they have modded the firmware. There are two motherboards being sent out with these SR's the SKR clone or Robin Nano v3 that i've seen. Any thoughts on Klipper for this machine?
I seriously can't figure this god damn printer out. My ender v2 worked so much better out of the box:( . I love the build quality on this one tho so much I'm trying not to give up. I keep having issues with things not wanting to stick and a ton of stringing.
Great video as always! Could you please tell me which filament brand you used for the foldable R2D2? That grey, slightly translucent look reminds me so much of resin prints.
It's X3D Pro PLA in grey. That colour also does a great job of hiding layer lines, also helping the prints look like they're from a resin printer. x3d.com.au/products/x3d-pro-pla-1-75mm-1kg-filament?variant=33791663505546
@@TeachingTech Thanks a lot! Indeed, I noticed right away how much it seems to smooth out layer lines, and that without the need for glitter. Sadly it doesn't seem to be available here Germany, or even in Europe.
Not in the market for another delta ATM, as I need a wide bed. If I were, though, this would deffo tickle my fancy. My QQS was great after I printed a decent part cooler. It printed at better xy resolution than my first resin printer, running at 70mm/sec on a .4mm nozzle with .3mm layers. They (FLSUN) were always happy to send replacement parts for free too..many say they will, but flsun actully do. It developed recurring issues related to levelling and eventually died though. I've been thinking about rebuilding it recently. Can you recommend a board?
Why dont more manufacturers use micro switches for bed leveling? Seems like such a simple solution compared to expensive bl touch or inductive sensors.
It's not as "sexy" in that you have to manually attach the sensor switch before leveling, and then remove it before printing. People prefer completely automatic solutions.
I have printed with several different types of filament and PETG seems the best one for my needs. Several people have stated that the max speed to print PETG is about 60mm/sec. I normally use a .4mm nozzle in order to get a good finish but have tried much larger ones but the surface finish suffers. If that speed limit is true, how would this printer's speed help me?
Great review, thank you. Couple of questions: Will you be reviewing the Sidewinder x2? Also. With a machine running Marlin firmware and an Ultrabase type bed. Could you go into the code and enable the bed to keep temperature for a set period of time e.g. 30mins-1hr if the filament run out sensor is triggered so it gives you time to potentially save the print before the part releases from the bed due to cool down?
I already said no to that one because it's not very different from the X1. Filament runout normally keeps the bed heated, so that's not a problem. It's the power out that is problematic with glass beds.
What does Delta mean in this context? Is it just the triangular prism shape of the machine? Or, you contrasted it with Cartesian printers... does that mean the coordinate system is triangular?? I like that. What does ringing mean? I'm new to your channel. At the end of this video, I noticed your Australian accent, like Maker's Muse... does that mean 3D printing is pretty big/popular over there?
Delta refers to the triangular shape as well as the movement system, which is using the 3 vertical carriages to move the hot end by way of the diagonal arms. Moving the hot end along the x-y plane or vertically requires calculated movement of all 3 carriages. Moving just a single carriage would move the hot end in a vertical arc. Ringing can best be visualized by placing a ruler over the edge of a table with your hand over the end that's over the table, letting the loose end hang down a bit (by raising your hand a bit), and then clapping your hand down over the end towards the table and watching what happens to the other end. First it will quickly rise up to be level with the table, but then it bounces back and forth very quickly before settling down. Something similar happens when a hot-end is moving quickly in one direction, then abruptly stops moving in that direction. The mechanism vibrates in a ringing fashion, and this leaves its mark in the plastic as it is extruded.
I don't mean to be rude but mentioning print speeds without saying what acceleration/jerk you used those speeds at means nothing. i could print 500mm/s without ringing on an anet a8 if i set the acceleration to 200! and even a slow speed such at 30mm/s is way different at 1000 accel vs 1200 vs 1500 accel. also slicers often choose different speeds for the outer perimeters. the speeds that really matters is the outer perimeter speed + inner perimeter speed + acceleration for both. also the reason for PETG acting like this is that I think it's less thermally conductive or something? (don't quote me on that!) what I know however is that you need to set your volumetric extrusion lower.. for me pla is 13mm^3/s on a v6 and petg is like only 7mm^3/s on the same hotend! a volcano scales this by the same ratio for both for me! however thanks for measuring the noises! that's a very important factor for many :) I think you'd get WAY BETTER prints if you moved the bowden extruder closer to the hotend. that bowden tube is stupidly long. With deltas you can even do a levitating extruder that's somewhere between bowden-direct bowden tube length wise but adds no weight/ghosting to the carriage :)
They only give you so many spare parts because they know stuff's going to break often. I'd rather they used better components and kept most of the spares.
Hey mate, really love your videos and stoked you've chosen to cover this printer. I got it myself a couple of months ago so can't wait to see what upgrades you come up with. With regards to the spots on the vase, it's a common issue, so common in fact that FLsun provide a link to this video on the SD card that comes with the printer. ua-cam.com/video/JDRBbCxJbXw/v-deo.html TL;DW SD card needs to be formatted to fat32, and don't add too much data to the card afterwards. I personally solved this by foregoing the SD card and setting up Octoprint.
Thanks to all the commenters who confirmed the blob pauses in vase mode can be stopped by disabling power out recovery and/or reformatting the card.
Some more details on the printer:
Standard acceleration is set to 2800 mm/sec for print and travel moves, with jerk set to 20 for X/Y/Z.
My speed 3dbenchy upped this to 8K and 20, with the layer shifted failure being 160 mm/sec feedrate everywhere, 10K acceleration and 30 for jerk.
It's good seeing how far FLSUN has come, you can tell they are genuinely passionate about making a decent product, especially in the delta space, I hope they keep it up.
I am interested in the printer, but got distracted by the foldable Artoo-Deetoo, fetched and sliced it right away, got it started printing, missed the rest of the review - I will watch it again later.
I like your priorities 🤣
Pretty much anything on Fab365 is worth dropping everything else for.
Thank you very much for using my design for testing 3D printer! :D
I shared your video on my facebook. facebook.com/Fab365.net
Your model is awesome ! Thanks
Its always so cool to see the little shoutouts to #SpeedBoatRace, and seeing myself in the videos haha. Thanks again Michael, it's always great talking to you
Can’t wait to hear your thoughts on getting Klipper going and how it performs once tuned. Just got my shipment notification for my SR and will most likely be putting Klipper on as well
Yea the stopping you saw in the vase is a common side effect of power loss recovery. Disabling that in firmware should make it run smooth again.
You can just set it in the start g code of each print too if that’s easier
HAH I was right :D have a bowl sitting on my workbench looking exactly the same. ua-cam.com/video/Qi7QX1QhxuQ/v-deo.html
THe issue is that the printer stops for a second to write on the sd card the part were it could use the power recovery. B3vd has a nice prusa slicer macro to toggle it.
@@redwraith6576 why pause physical action for data transport stuff? Can't both tasks be simultaneous? Or am I confused about something?
@@polychoron your question is legit, but this is a known issue with marlin and only happens in vase mode. Have a look at Brians Video, he explains it way better than I am possible to do.
Back in my day, the reason my delta would pause was because it couldn't do delta calculations fast enough on circular objects. This was because the screen had a fan animation that was taking up too much processing power and it would stutter the printer
Great Looking Printer Michael. Keep up the Good Work.
Please make more content with this machine!!! Deltas are so cool!!!!
More on the way, I assure you.
I’m so glad you reviewed this machine. Excited to see what people will do with these as far as modifications go once they gain more popularity.
I've already order some parts to try out on it, and my biggest mod should be quite wild ;)
@@TeachingTech 😮😃
I never see upgrades to these printers! Please, can't wait to see them.
I'm excited to see on the future what you're able to do with this as a base platform for upgrades. Great video as always. Keep it up.
I have the slightly smaller FLSUN QQ and I love it. It's my first printer and I loved how easy it was to assemble and start printing right away. 4 months later my only complaint is the way the spool holder feeds the extruder, it's a sharp angle and is starting to wear a groove increasing friction
This one has PTFE tube to line the passage so hopefully that won't be a problem.
Delta printers are in this weird category of magical math, and amazing engineering.
Bought mine two weeks ago. Definitely worth it. The reliability, quality at speed, features at cost, just general value make this printer a no Brainer right now, and for folks looking for Delta a great smaller option than say an Anycubic Predator which is currently sold out.
Thanks for your hard work! I'm sure reviewing new printers has gotten pretty tedious over time, but it's nice to see an honest, thorough review of the latest offerings every once in a while.
It is tedious unfortunately. This one was one of the good ones. Many of these prints were done at the same time as the CR-10 Smart which was a disaster.
@@TeachingTech I absolutely hate my creality ender plus so here I am.
Woohoo, great review. The blobbing is meant to be fixed as far as I know.. formatting the card sorts it it as well from seeing other reviews. I like this printer and look forward to your upgrade vids 👍
I have this printer and I like it a lot. I'm new to 3d printing so I can't add anything except that I don't have that stopping issue. Someone on UA-cam said to format the SD card so I did that before my first print. I'd also think you'd want a card with a good transfer rate - or disable PLP in gcode as others suggest.
def, bin the SD stock SD card and use arcwelder. Curves really tax SD transfer rate and delta cpu calcs.
The problem regarding the blobs on vase mode is exactly what your Patreon follower said. Disable power loss recovery and it‘s fixed.
I like how I'm not even watching most of these since I might consider the printers in the future (mainly due to the price points), but rather because I just like the videos. Not just the review videos, but almost all of them.. it's magic :p
What a lovely printer, and a super racer review 😀
I’m really looking forward to seeing some upgrades for this machine, Klipper etc!!!
Brilliant
Thanks for the review! I already have one (with the Nano board) and I am quite pleased with it. Very much looking forward to seeing the upgrades you choose. I will likely follow suit.
Thanks Michael ...PROOF:given a good printer you'll make a perfect review. - Special Thanks for even more _Super Models_ you've unearthed here!
It's not perfect but it's pretty good. Regardless of the company, country of origin or expectations, my goal is to give credit where it's due and constructive criticism also.
A really great review Michael! You nailed the processes in order to go fast on a stock machine… This makes me want to get my hands on this one and I really like the probing method here.
I was hoping this video would have come out BEFORE I pulled the trigger and bought one. BUUUT I am glad that I did purchase this when it was on sale for $409 US. The machine is really sound. Louder than would be liked retractions solved by slowing down the retraction settings in cura. I did have some ringing from the Facebook groups setting for cura 4.10 I slowed them down to 2k from 3k and even on the fast settings (150mm/s) I was able to receive fairly decent prints. The issue is when trying to dial in the extruder and flow rate. The values given from the teaching tech website should be used as a starting point (especially flow) where the extruder goes from stock of 410 to 453 steps and the flow comes down from 100 to 83.11. I have to do more fine tuning for this. Hoping to get her all settled in and able to hit print and walk away.
Definitely a klipper machine!!! Keep us updated…. Thanks
We can’t wait to see your upgrades for this printer 🤩
I audibly gasped when I saw the Delta on your desk, I was lookin in the background trying to find a small printer because I've never seen a successful LARGE delta printer before. Holy smokes that's impressive, and reasonably priced I think. At that price point I'd likely just buy a second CR6 but if I had a burning curiosity for Deltas and a few extra hundreds burning a hole in my pocket I'd go for this one.
Interesting printer.
I've had heard the same thing with a buffer/"writing to the SD-card of where the G code is at this print time"-
Thanks for sharing your experiences with all of us :-)
Although to follow your reviews of I have to help with the automatic translation of the Italian text I always find them very professional and true and this is an aspect that I do not find in the vast majority of people who try to imitate you. In fact, about 10 days ago I bought the Creality CR-10 Smart printer following a review seen on the net and as you can well imagine the disappointment was total. I realize that asking you which model to buy to have a professional and accurate product would be difficult given the large number of printers around. Perhaps compared to many other people I was lucky in that having purchased it through Amazon I was able to request a refund and in these days I will send it to the sender. I have heard that new models will come out in a few months and I would be grateful if, even if in private you could direct me to one in particular. Everyone tells me not to waste time and buy the Prusa immediately but now I'm scared and I don't know what to do. Thanks bye.
Not sure if you saw but I recently reviewed the CR-10 Smart and I agree with you that is was very disappointing. In terms of Prusas, my MK3 was great out of the box and continues to perform well. My Mini was an early order and had quite a few issues. By now I would expect the + version to have everything sorted.
Waiting to see the upgrades!
I'm honestly really impressed... I think I'll pick this up as an upgrade
I see that most of the comments are a year old or more, so thought I'd chime in having recently purchased an SR. Here are a few comments, in no particular order:
1. I'm still using Simplify3d, and it took quite some effort to create a profile that provided both good speed and quality. Infill in particular was a challenge, the stock profiles for both S3D and Cura move too fast and infill becomes inconsistent and bumpy.
2. Using S3D, I found that the filament runout detection logic wasn't working. Long story short, it's because the profile used relative extrusion rather than absolute. This is an easy change in S3D, and once set the detection (and recovery) works great.
3. I made two mods -- one to improve the airflow with a set of replacement ducts off Thingiverse, the other to add a steel magnetic PEI bed. Both mods are great.
4. I'm still not convinced that it's possible to set it up to read GCODE files from a USB stick. Others have stated there's a version of the firmware that supports this, but I've yet to find it.
5. FLSun tech support is non-responsive. I've sent both emails and messages via their website asking for information on the USB stick firmware thing, they have never responded.
6. The printer does only so-so on small details, particularly if you try to push the speed at all. I'm finding it all too common for the little stuff to be distorted, under-extruded or not printed at all. Probably due to the Bowden feed.
All in all, I still like this printer, but it's not magical. Work within its limitations (nowhere near 200mm/sec) and all will be ok. Try to move too fast and quality suffers severely. BTW, I noticed they stopped advertising 250mm/sec.
Finally, the print volume is not exactly as advertised. Yes, you can print an object that is 330mm high, but don't expect it to be 260mm across at the top. More like a conical shape up there.
It's a good value, and nicely built. I'd buy it again, but with my expectations a bit lower.
I can confirm that the blobs seen in vase mode where the programm pauses for a short time are no longer an issue. I got my unit 1 week ago and ordered it a month ago. It seems the fixed the firmware/SD card formatting...
I think it is only a problem for earlier/review units.
That makes sense since the SD card that shipped gave me issues too.
Pretty good. But FLsun is STILL another manufacture that isn't learning from past experiences. Previous reviews of their previous models show that the blobs are caused by 1 of 2 things (depending on the reviewer) 1. The resume feature (as you stated) - switching it off makes the blobs go away. 2. The supplied SD card - some reviews say changing the card for a better one got rid of them. They shouldn't rely on the SD card for writes. What they really need is a low power memory chip with long life battery-backup on the main board.
I believe thats that the best printer/money out there and I think that I ll order one right now
I really like my Flsun q5: after calibrating the extruder which is highly recommended by users in the FB group. That FB group being the only support I could find is really my only complaint. The SR would be my next printer if I was not really intrigued with your Voron. I will be watching to see if your upgrades change my mind. Definitely looking forward to what you are able to achieve!!
The Facebook group is op! There is a small community for flsun on reddit as well.
@@brianadams7903 the facebook group is really where you should head for these printers!
I also upgraded from the Q5 to the SR and the machine is definitely way more capable in all areas. I'm working on a mod to fit a Dragon HF hotend on the original carriage and that will be posted on the group
@@dallatorretdu im on there as well. Same name. See you there. Looking forward to seeing what you came up with.
Please uodate to firmwarw version 1.2 1. That resolves the blobs in the vase prints.
Very nice that it uses a more standard SKR board. I wonder if the usage of Klipper will complicate things a bit, since it will probably disable the ability to use the touchscreen.
That will definitely be a hurdle. Many folks rely solely on the web interface instead of machine interface so I'm not sure where I'll end up.
Never gonna buy one but it's very refreshing to see a china printer doing things right for once and improving their products! I had an old QQ that was a piece of junk that ultimately led me to designing my first all original printer after it got pulled apart for it's parts.
I’m def interested in this printer especially since the only delta I own the sad slot on the board stopped working... it’s a min delta that I love but is a expensive paper weight at the moment
Can't it print from the usb port?
:D At first I thought the vase was meant to look like a cactus :D
So glad you finally got a delta!!!! Looking forward to seeing you put klipper on it! Is this the only sub $500 printer that can do a quality 15 minute benchy out of the box?
Just in case you didn't see them, I had series on making a Monoprice Mini Delta cordless and portable, plus a video on a Tevo Little Monster. I agree that I am lacking delta videos compared to others though.
In terms of price vs performance it's up there. The ringing is prominent once you turn up the speed/acceleration though.
@@TeachingTech Thanks, I'll look into them. I'd love to see klipper input shaping on a delta, there seems to be very few videos on that. And if you do upgrade to more powerful steppers, you could find the acceleration limiting factor before upgrading the hot end for more speed? It'd be a great video series!
It is the power loss protection. Turning it off removes that issue 😀
I bet Klipper could give those thing a boost. Input shaper could go a long way in a Delta!
I'm hoping so too and I expect to find our shortly.
Nice review. Will be great to have one review this model kywoo tycoon slim 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
I just received this printer today
It looks fun as heck. Love it.
Awesome review as always! Just a heads up that Super Racer Support will be coming officially in Cura 4.11, myself and Guislain have got the profiles up. I missed the 4.10 merge window by a couple of days trying to solve some queries with FLSun :(
Sorry for the totally off topic comment. I just converted to sensor less homing on my Ender 3 V2 with Skr e3 rrf running Marlin, and a BL touch. I know you did a video on crash / stall detection during a print, and I thought I remembered something else that had to be set up for the crash detection. I can't for the life of me find the video. I'm pretty sure it was for Marlin, not RepRap. Could you please direct me to the correct video? As always, thank you for the immense help you always provide.
ps, I had quite the laugh watching someone else's video making some absurd comments about you Michael. I somehow refrained commenting on that/those videos as I did not want to stir the pot. I hope he gets the mental help he needs, it has to be awful living that way.
I trust this guy!
about time you've gone a FLSUN, i love my QQS Pro and it can go quick as well. too bad that Design Prototype test dude is going to get a bit of butthurt as he reviewed this a few months ago....queue the "copying me" rant
Great review, Thanks!
On my Ender 3 V2 I MUST turn off power recovery or I get blobs in vase mode. I had to install custom firmware to do that (Jyers). And yes I tried the fastest SD Card I could buy. This is a well known issue with speed writing to the SD Card at least for the Ender boards.
Bought this printer a few weeks ago, largely based on the strength of this review. Quality, so far, has been a bit disappointing! Part cooling is definitely an issue with the “normal” profile. Ringing is much worse than shown in the review, and barely tolerable when using the higher-speed “normal” profile. I have to wonder if the printer sent for review was cherry-picked as being one of the better models. Still happy with the purchase; it’s just going to take some work to get the machine dialed-in to the point where it works as well as the one in the review.
Been using PLA at 220 and 60 for heat...after auto leveling and zeroing the z I've noticed on most prints it still scrapes and I have to adjust the z while printing...
Just ordered mine, looking forward to the upgrades! I'd like to see if quieter fans can be installed.
Would you consider doing an "upgrades" video for this machine?
my prints stick too well to this surface. I scratch my bed or break parts trying to remove them. even the screw that came on SD card
Thanks mate
love the fab365 models. really well designed
Oh skr delta just begging to be klipperised with a better hotend, extruder, 5160's running @ 48 volts this could be me 😍
It looks like a great machine. I think I will try this one out (next to my trusty Ender 5). I noticed however in other reviews that not all models seem to have the original SKR mainboard, but some FLsun produced clone. I don't know if that's really true, and if it has impact on the quality. If that's the case, it's maybe a good idea to install the latest SKR model in this printer (and maybe make some video about it?).
Anyway - Nice review. I noticed that Klipper update on this channel too. I do not know enough about Klipper and all the configuration abilities it has to know if it's worthwhile. Maybe I will have to delve some deeper into Klipper.
Seems to be a nice machine.. Maybe an alternative to the ratrig or voron2.4 when price matters
8:00 I heard that PETG is exceptionally unsuitable for faster printers, as it has a very slow flow rate. That when printing with fast printers, ABS is preferred as it has a much better flow rate. Do you think this might be the issue?
My screen is frozen. Will not go to home screen it just stays with the Flsun logo. Any idea?
please a video how to upgrade it
Has anyone made a 3d printer motherboard with a raspberry pi integrated into the board to get rid of communication issues by not having to use cables thatre affected by electrical noise at some degree.
Can You make A Marker And Eraser holder on Onshape plz I really need it in school it’s part of my project to make one so Plz can you show me how to make on Onshape.🥺
1st day of printing seemed fine, then it slowly started getting worse for me. It started blobbing everything, test cubes look horrible or it picks the print off the bed. level looks fine but cannot produce a good result anymore. Im close to giving up.
If someone has a second I have a question When using these new brosilicate glass beds does petg filament stick to the bed and if so does it release when the bed cools? I have heard horror stories of petg sticking too well to a glass bed but cant find anything on these new coated glass style beds
Hello, I have one of the new revisions, with the USB drive support. (finally no more micro sd cards)
I'm having trouble tuning linear advance on this printer, it does behave very erratically and I don't know what I'm missing, maybe I set the max acceleration wrong?
Anyway Waiting for your Clipper video as I have a PI4 laying around, but I would like to be able to revert at any time
Ok maybe there's a vid somewhere out there/here but I can't seem to find it. But I had to replace my Flsun SR complete extruder and hotend, and I've heard the if doing something like that I'd have to do some calibration adjustments. So, do you have a vid or know of a vid just for the Flsun SR? Plus my SR is stock, will I need to replace the mainboard or install Keppler or marlin to adjust or change the M-codes that I see everyone seems to be doing on here?
Idk if you'll see this. But is it possible to make a test print or a a tool to create a file on your website that people can enter values or something to see how well their printer can print print in place things and have them move afterwards? I hope I worded this correctly. So that way people can tune the printer with a simple file to see if they can do PiP without spending 10 hours on a print to find it fused together.
Nice video,i have this printer i also use the quality and fast profile from the factory cura 4.4, i downgrade the firmware to version 1.0 , the printer always work perfect. Better slow with good quality profile compare fast with some bad area. The ringing and ghosting is very bad if we use fast profile. I am waiting for your modification. Thanks
Hey Mike, great video. I had the clone SKR board, but have been having several issues with the clone elements and found that the stock firmware had no thermal runaway on the bed *found while using octoprint, so i'm glad there are a few firmwares knocking about where they have modded the firmware. There are two motherboards being sent out with these SR's the SKR clone or Robin Nano v3 that i've seen. Any thoughts on Klipper for this machine?
Give this a try
3dprintbeginner.com/klipper-on-flsun-super-racer/
@@3DPrintBeginner that’s a goer :)
Planning to Klipperize it this week, hopefully along side another machine in the same video to make it as broadly useful as possible.
Nice!
Can you do something on cast iron as a bed surface?
You can tell they really care about the design of their printers because their wire are *C R I M P E D*
I seriously can't figure this god damn printer out. My ender v2 worked so much better out of the box:( . I love the build quality on this one tho so much I'm trying not to give up. I keep having issues with things not wanting to stick and a ton of stringing.
Great video as always! Could you please tell me which filament brand you used for the foldable R2D2? That grey, slightly translucent look reminds me so much of resin prints.
It's X3D Pro PLA in grey. That colour also does a great job of hiding layer lines, also helping the prints look like they're from a resin printer. x3d.com.au/products/x3d-pro-pla-1-75mm-1kg-filament?variant=33791663505546
@@TeachingTech Thanks a lot! Indeed, I noticed right away how much it seems to smooth out layer lines, and that without the need for glitter. Sadly it doesn't seem to be available here Germany, or even in Europe.
Hi man! When you say i had to use quality presets because tolerancies where a bit tight what did you mean? (R2d2)
Thanks!
Did you know that Senna was shot, his car didn't actually fail? Sounds crazy but if you look into it you'll come to that conclusion too.
Not in the market for another delta ATM, as I need a wide bed. If I were, though, this would deffo tickle my fancy.
My QQS was great after I printed a decent part cooler. It printed at better xy resolution than my first resin printer, running at 70mm/sec on a .4mm nozzle with .3mm layers. They (FLSUN) were always happy to send replacement parts for free too..many say they will, but flsun actully do.
It developed recurring issues related to levelling and eventually died though. I've been thinking about rebuilding it recently. Can you recommend a board?
Why dont more manufacturers use micro switches for bed leveling? Seems like such a simple solution compared to expensive bl touch or inductive sensors.
I suspect consistency/repeatability.
It's not as "sexy" in that you have to manually attach the sensor switch before leveling, and then remove it before printing. People prefer completely automatic solutions.
It removes some of the automation from the process.
You have to manually attach it, or put it on a servo, which is what the bltouch is anyways.
How is support for this brand?
Would love to know your acceleration and jerk limits you set for this machine
Out of the box the print and travel acceleration is set to 280 mm/sec/sec and the jerk to 20.
Not sure that all customers will recieve as much as spares.
I have printed with several different types of filament and PETG seems the best one for my needs. Several people have stated that the max speed to print PETG is about 60mm/sec. I normally use a .4mm nozzle in order to get a good finish but have tried much larger ones but the surface finish suffers. If that speed limit is true, how would this printer's speed help me?
What? A delta printer that is not 2small4u?
Great review, thank you. Couple of questions: Will you be reviewing the Sidewinder x2? Also. With a machine running Marlin firmware and an Ultrabase type bed. Could you go into the code and enable the bed to keep temperature for a set period of time e.g. 30mins-1hr if the filament run out sensor is triggered so it gives you time to potentially save the print before the part releases from the bed due to cool down?
I already said no to that one because it's not very different from the X1.
Filament runout normally keeps the bed heated, so that's not a problem. It's the power out that is problematic with glass beds.
@@TeachingTech Thank you for your reply
I wonder if SD card write speeds are the cause of some of the issues you are having?
🔥💕😍👍
👍👍
What does Delta mean in this context? Is it just the triangular prism shape of the machine? Or, you contrasted it with Cartesian printers... does that mean the coordinate system is triangular?? I like that.
What does ringing mean?
I'm new to your channel. At the end of this video, I noticed your Australian accent, like Maker's Muse... does that mean 3D printing is pretty big/popular over there?
Delta refers to the triangular shape as well as the movement system, which is using the 3 vertical carriages to move the hot end by way of the diagonal arms. Moving the hot end along the x-y plane or vertically requires calculated movement of all 3 carriages. Moving just a single carriage would move the hot end in a vertical arc.
Ringing can best be visualized by placing a ruler over the edge of a table with your hand over the end that's over the table, letting the loose end hang down a bit (by raising your hand a bit), and then clapping your hand down over the end towards the table and watching what happens to the other end. First it will quickly rise up to be level with the table, but then it bounces back and forth very quickly before settling down. Something similar happens when a hot-end is moving quickly in one direction, then abruptly stops moving in that direction. The mechanism vibrates in a ringing fashion, and this leaves its mark in the plastic as it is extruded.
I don't mean to be rude but mentioning print speeds without saying what acceleration/jerk you used those speeds at means nothing.
i could print 500mm/s without ringing on an anet a8 if i set the acceleration to 200!
and even a slow speed such at 30mm/s is way different at 1000 accel vs 1200 vs 1500 accel.
also slicers often choose different speeds for the outer perimeters. the speeds that really matters is the outer perimeter speed + inner perimeter speed + acceleration for both.
also the reason for PETG acting like this is that I think it's less thermally conductive or something? (don't quote me on that!) what I know however is that you need to set your volumetric extrusion lower.. for me pla is 13mm^3/s on a v6 and petg is like only 7mm^3/s on the same hotend! a volcano scales this by the same ratio for both for me!
however thanks for measuring the noises! that's a very important factor for many :)
I think you'd get WAY BETTER prints if you moved the bowden extruder closer to the hotend. that bowden tube is stupidly long. With deltas you can even do a levitating extruder that's somewhere between bowden-direct bowden tube length wise but adds no weight/ghosting to the carriage :)
They only give you so many spare parts because they know stuff's going to break often. I'd rather they used better components and kept most of the spares.
Flash klipper and send it
Hey mate, really love your videos and stoked you've chosen to cover this printer. I got it myself a couple of months ago so can't wait to see what upgrades you come up with. With regards to the spots on the vase, it's a common issue, so common in fact that FLsun provide a link to this video on the SD card that comes with the printer.
ua-cam.com/video/JDRBbCxJbXw/v-deo.html
TL;DW SD card needs to be formatted to fat32, and don't add too much data to the card afterwards. I personally solved this by foregoing the SD card and setting up Octoprint.