@@matlandproject Well, I replaced the pump and took it my Prius for a test ride. No red light on the usual hill it turns on, so fingers crossed it's a success :) Thanks again for this video!
What’s the miles on it? While it’s good to change water pump if you’re past 100k, I’m not sure how a partially seized water pump would lead to coolant loss. If miles are around 150k, that’s when head gaskets tend to fail on 3rd gen, leaking coolant into combustion chamber. Has the EGR system ever been cleaned? Clogged EGR and blown head gaskets go hand in hand with this gen. BTW, the front/centre jacking point allows you to raise front in one go. Good to chock rear wheels too.
Thanks for the comment the car was a 180k. The water pump fixed the problem. I chose to sell the car at 200k. It was needing a bunch of maintenance work brakes, tires,…. The repairs where more than what I felt the car was worth.
if pump is not working, or working sporadically, the coolant does not flow. at one moment, it starts boiling. the boiling is sudden and produces hot vapors, that travel tru the system, and get vented out of the release valve on the plastic overflow container. I had so much loss, that the coolant was dripping on the OUTSIDE of the car, making the passenger front door and front mudfender wet with coolant!
I have similar issues with my Prius. I have a 2011. Changed out engine, water pump, sensor and thermostat. I have issue when I drive high speeds 70-80 mph up hill. Reservoir very hot almost to boiling temperature. Temp red light would turn on or flash and then when I slow down it will eventually turn off. My mechanic replaced literally everything minus the radiator and the inverter coolant pump. Can anyone please help???? No codes or no check engine lights just the red light engine temperature turns on when driving high speeds up hill for long periods of time. Is the issue temp sensor on EGR pipes? My mechanic has replaced with all OEM parts. Any advice? Toyota service rep says might be inverter water pump, radiator clogged up, or water pump. Just a had Toyota dealership diagnosed and they check for any leaks so it’s not the engine. They said water pump and thermostat. My mechanic replaced those 2 parts. I thought I was in the clear but I wasn’t. The car still overheats when driving high speeds 75-80 mph for long periods of time and red temperature light turns on again uphill at high speeds. Anyone please help and TIA Only radiator and inverter water pump left to be replaced and my mechanic is replacing it.
Wow you have had a lot of work done to chase down the issues. Unfortunately I don’t have any advice. I am just a weekend warrior who was willing to try switching out some parts. I got luck and fixed the problem by switching out the water pump
same problem here, but intermittent. actually, highway driving is better than traffic jam. yet, the appearance in my car is unpredictable. I changed only thermostat and pump, and checked pressure and exhaust gases. Seems like, I am going to flush radiator these days.
HELP, please. Problem is sporadic random overheating, accompanied with coolant liquid blown out tru the release valve on the plastic overflow container. I installed new thermostat (ebay), new water pump (the old one looks ok, and the rotor does not appear to be damaged) pressure test was good, keeps 12 psi for long time, exhaust fumes in coolant is negative, I pumped many many many times, the liquid remains blue... Any information will be greatly appreciated.
@@jorarch yes, the fan is working. if the fan were dead, then at high speed on interstate, it would not matter because the airflow greatly exceeds the fan flow. and i had overheating on highway.
new, 69.99 on ebay +tax. some ppl only replace the rotors. the rotor is a strong magnet, and has some plastic wrap. this wrap goes bad. mine was fine. seems my pump was OK, because the problem reappeared.
It was loosing a little coolant. I think it was boiling off. The pump was not leaking that I could see. The motor was not running so the temperature light would come on
@@matlandproject Coolant level by design should not vary, the possible cause of loss of coolant is either leaking or burning in the combustion chamber or other other hot places (exhaust heat exchanger). this is a somewhat common issue with gen3 Prius, if your engine also starts to shake or raddle at morning start up, it is probably a head gasket leak. In that case, there might be a code for misfires on one of the four cylinders. I hope your car is not this case, best of luck buddy, awesome work. Fellow Prius owner
@@sadikalshahari991what was the code tho maybe I missed it in the video I do think it was mentioned and I’m on a mobile phone so the description didn’t say it either. Was it P261B?
Great tutorial, thanks for sharing!
Sure thing thanks for the comment and for watching
Wish the egr cooler was that easy to take out.
For sure
Hey! Thanks for this video! Well done! Did replacing that pump fix the problem?
It did. Thanks for asking
@@matlandproject Great news! I'm gonna replace my water pump today.
Nice
@@matlandproject Well, I replaced the pump and took it my Prius for a test ride. No red light on the usual hill it turns on, so fingers crossed it's a success :)
Thanks again for this video!
Nice. I hope it works well for you
How many miles do you have on you Prius?
You should replace the Thermostat too while in there.
I appreciate your comment. I did end up changing the thermostat but did not film it
What’s the miles on it? While it’s good to change water pump if you’re past 100k, I’m not sure how a partially seized water pump would lead to coolant loss. If miles are around 150k, that’s when head gaskets tend to fail on 3rd gen, leaking coolant into combustion chamber. Has the EGR system ever been cleaned? Clogged EGR and blown head gaskets go hand in hand with this gen.
BTW, the front/centre jacking point allows you to raise front in one go. Good to chock rear wheels too.
Thanks for the comment the car was a 180k. The water pump fixed the problem. I chose to sell the car at 200k. It was needing a bunch of maintenance work brakes, tires,…. The repairs where more than what I felt the car was worth.
if pump is not working, or working sporadically, the coolant does not flow. at one moment, it starts boiling. the boiling is sudden and produces hot vapors, that travel tru the system, and get vented out of the release valve on the plastic overflow container. I had so much loss, that the coolant was dripping on the OUTSIDE of the car, making the passenger front door and front mudfender wet with coolant!
Thanks for your comment
I have similar issues with my Prius. I have a 2011. Changed out engine, water pump, sensor and thermostat. I have issue when I drive high speeds 70-80 mph up hill. Reservoir very hot almost to boiling temperature. Temp red light would turn on or flash and then when I slow down it will eventually turn off. My mechanic replaced literally everything minus the radiator and the inverter coolant pump. Can anyone please help????
No codes or no check engine lights just the red light engine temperature turns on when driving high speeds up hill for long periods of time.
Is the issue temp sensor on EGR pipes?
My mechanic has replaced with all OEM parts. Any advice?
Toyota service rep says might be inverter water pump, radiator clogged up, or water pump.
Just a had Toyota dealership diagnosed and they check for any leaks so it’s not the engine. They said water pump and thermostat.
My mechanic replaced those 2 parts. I thought I was in the clear but I wasn’t. The car still overheats when driving high speeds 75-80 mph for long periods of time and red temperature light turns on again uphill at high speeds. Anyone please help and TIA
Only radiator and inverter water pump left to be replaced and my mechanic is replacing it.
Wow you have had a lot of work done to chase down the issues. Unfortunately I don’t have any advice. I am just a weekend warrior who was willing to try switching out some parts. I got luck and fixed the problem by switching out the water pump
same problem here, but intermittent. actually, highway driving is better than traffic jam. yet, the appearance in my car is unpredictable. I changed only thermostat and pump, and checked pressure and exhaust gases. Seems like, I am going to flush radiator these days.
HELP, please. Problem is sporadic random overheating, accompanied with coolant liquid blown out tru the release valve on the plastic overflow container. I installed new thermostat (ebay), new water pump (the old one looks ok, and the rotor does not appear to be damaged) pressure test was good, keeps 12 psi for long time, exhaust fumes in coolant is negative, I pumped many many many times, the liquid remains blue...
Any information will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for the comment. Unfortunately I am not a mechanic. Perhaps someone else will be able to assist you.
Have you checked the fan if it's working?
@jorarch thanks for adding a comment
@@jorarch yes, the fan is working. if the fan were dead, then at high speed on interstate, it would not matter because the airflow greatly exceeds the fan flow. and i had overheating on highway.
Mathew
Have you used an aftermarket or oem water pump? Would you please post the link for part? Because I’m looking to buy one.
Thank you
I purchased the water pump from Amazon
new, 69.99 on ebay +tax. some ppl only replace the rotors. the rotor is a strong magnet, and has some plastic wrap. this wrap goes bad. mine was fine. seems my pump was OK, because the problem reappeared.
maybe only the rotor was faulty and you could have pulled it out from the pump for wee inspection
You are probably right. I am a novice I did not think about going the next step. Next time
How many kms on this thing?
At the time of the video there where 187,000 miles
183000 x 1.61
Does your car loss coolant also?
It was loosing a little coolant. I think it was boiling off. The pump was not leaking that I could see. The motor was not running so the temperature light would come on
@@matlandproject
Coolant level by design should not vary, the possible cause of loss of coolant is either leaking or burning in the combustion chamber or other other hot places (exhaust heat exchanger).
this is a somewhat common issue with gen3 Prius, if your engine also starts to shake or raddle at morning start up, it is probably a head gasket leak. In that case, there might be a code for misfires on one of the four cylinders.
I hope your car is not this case, best of luck buddy, awesome work. Fellow Prius owner
Thanks
U got abs problem,your pump is leaking
Shortly after this video my brake control model when out. That repair was way over my skill level.
Hey brother, was the problem fixed after you replaced the electric water pump?
Please let me know
It sure was! I just bought a cheep one off Amazon. I hope you find the video helpful.
@@matlandproject I'm having the same code and the same issue. I believe that your input will help me fix my problem. Thanks for sharing 👍
Sure thing! Good luck and thanks for sharing
@@sadikalshahari991what was the code tho maybe I missed it in the video I do think it was mentioned and I’m on a mobile phone so the description didn’t say it either.
Was it P261B?
@Mordorer I didn’t have a code the overheating symbol would randomly come on.