FULL BUILD VW Karmann Ghia METAL STRIP | Complete Restoration Series
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- Опубліковано 13 лис 2021
- FULL BUILD VW Karmann Ghia METAL STRIP | Complete Restoration Series, In this full build series video, sand blasting, sanding, grinding, paint stripped to bare metal. | Restoring antique cars complete process. In this video I strip the Ghia to bare metal with various methods. Preservation, restoration, repairing antique vintage cars and trucks is my passion. This car was forgotten in a barn for 40 years. Let's bring it back to life. ctmoog, ct, ct's garage
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I still dream of my Ghia I had back in the 80's The Dream usually consists of me digging it out from under a pile of Tumble Weeds in someones back Yard.
Rule of thumb, when stripping a car, use the scale grit sandpaper
40-80- prime- 180-240-380 sealer- paint
Finally!!! WE can see something good from you CT !!!! I hope we are not see anymore episods with insects 25 min😎🤘🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻
1. I’m amazed that for how bad some of the body is that the nose is clean! 2. Just getting a peek at Swamp Dragon cab has me drooling!
best karmanghia restoration video i've seen so far. congratulations for the excellent work.
Progress !! You're getting there, CT !! Keep after it, don't let it get you down !!
WOW, what an enormous amount of work! Go, CT, GO!!!!
yes it was! Thank you! =)
One thing I learned when attempting to do my own body work, was to never run the sander in one area for more than a second. It overheats and warps the panel. Keep passing over tougher areas as you work a panel and move to other panels, and try to keep everything level as you move around, to avoid heating the panels.
Lookin' good!!!! You are getting there!!!!! Slow and steady!!
I knew that Ghia had nice headlight areas but man , that entire nose is so nice . Great progress 👍
Thanks buddy! =)
I have stripped lots of cars. I usually do a whole body like that in about 8 hours with the exception of the rust in the tight areas and underneath or inside. which I would sand blast after.
Process: 1. Chem strip on whole car. sometimes cover with plastic If using citristip I cover it with plastic.
2 sometimes I scrape it with razor or wire brush and apply stripper again. ( hand wire brush)
3.Power wash off all stripper to neutralize the chemical.
4. Use woven or twisted wire brush on Polisher Sander, or grinder if you dont have a polisher. (not orbital) Usually totally bare metal.
5. Feather sand remaining paint with DA 80 grit.......Ready for primer in about 8 hours max.
Good advice Mike
@@samperras THat is the way I recommended he do it. He chose to do it this way, lets see if he switches it up on the doors.
Deve jatear com micro esferas de vidro e passar ácido fosfórico e depois escovar com a escova de aço e neste ponto não pode mais deixar exposto a água. Daí em diante é melhor já ir utilizando o primer de acordo com a tinta final a ser utilizada
You are doing a great job. I am sure that when the Gaia is finished you will have a beautiful car.
I love it when someone restores all vehicles with a lot of dedication and love. But I am always shocked when I see how chemicals, oil, paints, etc. are thoughtlessly released into the environment.
Great video man. It’s coming out. Fantastic
Thanks man!
Good work CT 👍👍👍👍
That's why they usually have them media blasted! The whole body done with glass beads, soda, or sand. Then the sanding and repairing begins.
Low pressure plastic (add some garnet for rust) .Low pressure won’t warp panels but you need lots of air flow (cfm)
@@Russeljfinch Yep! The media blasters use whatever is appropriate for the situation and it's all collected in the booth vac system, filtered and reused. They use sand, soda, glass and a new type with charcoal. The sand causes the most heat and warping they say.
worth the effort , my '68 body is waaaay worse , that one there is in great shape , Rock onnn
I admire your tenacity and energy. I’ve been been binge watching all your videos. Not a VW nut but I love watching projects of others come together.
man that sandblasting is so satisfying and it is really going to make a much better final product, this car is going to be sweet!
Yes it is! Thanks man! =)
Excellent video CT :) yes Autobody takes lots work & time also fix up doing welding, get parts to also primer and paint also clear coating plus installation together and carpet plus interior! Sometimes electrical plus parts need installation on ! Sometimes do get frustrated when costumer says can do my vechile in month and sometimes longer that do no way in month unless easy work but if hard work takes lots more! Worst months is Winter Season in Canada to do a Restoration or Fix ! Even get parts from Wrecking Yard fix on rare vechiles and frames too! I seen one vechile took me 5 years and do because was challenging to do on slow times but that one was my own to do it! The other was a vechile was in parts never assembled ever and rare one to took 2 years ! But ones want know some vechile take lots sleepness nights and lots shifts to do plus orders to get parts for each day to work and sometimes schedule and weather too plus Season Weather to! I done it lots to plus fabrication to get done fun because some parts no longer made too or vechile types too!
I am glad you decided to restore the body now. It is looking great. Thank you.
I really admire your work. great video. I'll visit more now that I see this. thanks👍👍👍👍
I did my old truck by hand with all the same methods.
Took me months to get it down all the way and body worked and primed. It was not a priority project and I was quarantined do to the pandemic, so lots of time and not as much money.
I would have blasted it, but I was doing it on a shoe string budget and it worked. Just took a long time.
Great work! The only thing that I miss is Busters own channel. 😂
I love seeing the progress! 🖤
The main problem with chemical stripping these days is that manufacturers have been banned from including methylene chloride in their products. The resulting products simply no longer work. Very frustrating.
One thing about these cars I have learned after stripping and painting my 60 Ghia they rust from the inside out. Keep it up it took me 3 years from stripping to paint. They are like opening a can of worms.
Yes, I'm starting to realize that as well. I think it goes for most vintage cars and trucks. Lots of places for rust to develop.
Cudo's CT great job! I loved that you are not too aggressive with the sandblasting it shows patience and pride in workmanship. It may sound funny but this video gave me a warm fuzzy feeling you are becoming a "craftsman" on this project and future projects will benefit from this one.
@@johndavid8363 True, LOL, but I like to encourage people to strive for the best when they put as much heart into a project as CT is doing. There is still a lot of work ahead and a slap on the back and well done never hurts.
Thanks Chris! John likes to bust my balls!
Another super watch 👏👏👏🇬🇧
Where you have rust, it needs to get shiny bare metal and then be etched or epoxy primered. When you have solid paint that isn't cracked and is hard to remove, probably a good idea to leave it and scuff it, since paint will adhere to it, and the most important part of a paint job after the perfect finish is, making sure it doesn't fall off the metal. Once it's prep-solved, sanded, etched and scuffed....2K high-build surfacer. I like MP282 from PPG. You can even put it on with a roller. Then.....block away.
The best restoration work, and the conditions in which the car is... Congratulations... Lots of Patience and Lots of Love... An excellent Professional Brio-
Good job!
You're doing a thorough job buddy. Keep up the good work.
Good job Man!👍👍
Thanks! 👍
Listen to the experts there is some great advice here. It takes time else you knock the old girl around. Tradies work hard at their skill base.
It would have been nice if you had a dipper nearby. But, you got it going in the right direction so kudos to you 👍🏻
Didn't you think it was better to sandblast the entire body? Beautiful car. I long to see it finished. Best regards
Yes, it's nice when it's a clean slate! =)
عمل رائع أحسنت. 🌷
Can’t believe that two of my favourite tubers are undertaking full body repainting on the same cars. Full kudos guys, loving the mud drainage holes CT, that was a shocking amount of mud buddy
@jamie walton, who's you other favorite UA-camer that's working on a Karmann Ghia?
@@Zjedi it’s a tuber called “Mike fn Garage” he’s an awesome bloke who fixes up all types of VWs and other car vans etc. Please share his UA-cam site cos he’s helped me loads
Awesome work, shame you ran out of sand and energy. Great to see you back, was beginning to think you were sick and off course all these things cost $$$. Keep up the great work you do, totally enjoy.
fastest way strip is blasting or with corded grinder with wire brush cup and a 7 inch corded grinder with 24-36 grit disk dont sand it wastes paper and its not cheap rightnow at all.thanks
- nick
It looks like you got a pretty good body there to start with I've seen lots worse, You did the right thing by drilling a hole you can always Weld it back up anyway if you didn't have to replace the quarter panel . Good luck with that project don't give up just keep going.
Very good your cAR...
Good to see you back at it CT. Sand blasting looks to be the best way to go, but also the most PITA way. Keep at it man, she's going to be a gem!
Sandblasting panels, that's a good way to warp them.
This is a low pressure. It's not a commercial grade blaster.
@@CTmoog it will still warp it.
@@robertlambert5299 Uh, no it won't.
If go hog wild with no sense you can. But you got to out of your way and work like an ogre to do it.
I have my fair share of sandblasting everything you can imagine.
Poly strip disc will rip through that real quick, without overheating and warping the panel.
Hi
Ct make sure not a speck of rust is left before you consider repainting the car.
Looks very good!
Really enjoying this! Keep up the good work.
I’m surprised you made it this far. Good job 👏🏾
Déjà vu all over again just like the swamp dragon
CT, You have the patience of a Saint! This is a slow process, and I've been there before, but not to the depth that you are going! If you still have the Eastwood surface prep tool, you might want to try it on the fairly flat areas with the Scotchbrite looking drum for stripping paint. It seems to work pretty quickly. For myself, if the original paint is stubbornly stuck, I believe I would sand it, feather the edges real well and primer/surfacer it, 'till you get a satisfactory surface. Remember, paint only fills the can it came in!
its getting there going to be a nice ride when done...
Thanks John!
Fortunately for you, its cooled off a bit here in Florida, and the humidity is down. Now is the time to blast that car, and some of your other projects. Good luck.
That was way too much bondo on the rear quarter. Lol, good thing your addressing now. 😁👍
Yes, they laid it on thick!
Sizi ilgi ile izliyorum,ben tamirci değilim avukatım ama meraklıyım, profesyonel iş yapıyorsunuz ekipmanlarınız fevkalade tebrikler
Os vídeos são imperdíveis. Realizando sonhos de muitas pessoas. 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
This car is so straight, solid and original that a full resto using all the original parts inasmuch as possible would be awesome. Like you said; I am absolutely amazed at how perfect the nose in this car is. They seem to attract getting hit there; not sure why! I notice that those cover plates that you took off in the front wheel well areas have rubber weatherstripping. I believe it’s imperative to get those replaced and make sure they’re totally weathertight because water and dirt can get behind there and really rust things out. That dirt and water in the nooks and crannies really rusts out the bodies.
Another good suggestion is using black butyl sealant between the windshield and back window rubber seals and the body when you reinstall them. It will seal them up nicely and prevent water leaks in those areas that can rust out the body.
Like you said thickness of the final paint is also important in protecting the steel. When repainting don’t get stingy on the paint; and use a good amount of paint as Mike Fn does. A couple of runs in the paint are preferable to not enough paint coverage.
Yuu0
Mkk
you are very professional 👏 good job bro
I’m doing the same thing on my channel. I didn’t strip it but man chasing dent is never ending.
On a project like the One you’re working on usually takes like 2 to 3 weeks if not more so hang in there
Thanks man!
Nice job CT your doing great the car is looking good I’m Injoying your videos leaving you comments and smashing the like button 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻see you on the next video 😁
Muito top a restauração estou acompanhando todos os vídeos desde o início, sou mecânico também e seu ferramental é de primeira já me escrevi no seu canal sou daqui do Brasil 🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷 abraços
Looking good CT. I've had good results with the stripping discs 4 1/2 inch (usually purple or blue). They remove the paint and rust but won't damage the metal. Sand blaster appears to have done the job. can't wait to see more.
Thanks David, I picked up some of the blue discs. I will give them a try. Thanks man!
Good job
Good job mash'Allah
Hi, CT you got yourself a great object to dó a full high-end restoration the bodywork or the karosseri don't look to the bath so I do wish you good luck with the restoration of the VW Karmann Ghia, greetings, HCS👍🏻 Great Progress.
WOW! =) Thanks HCS!
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Watching from Australia. Here it is not legal to blast outdoors. All media must be captured and disposed of correctly as it's seen as a heavy pollutant that could cause harm in the ecosystem. All the places I have visited have plastic sheets on the ground to capture the blast media. In some instances it can be dried, filtered and reused.
Concentrate on the problem rust areas more and use the paint stripper/da sander on the not so damaged or rusty areas. If its a concourse rebuild save yourself the hassle and have the cat dipped to strip, then dipped and pressure cleaned to neutralise. Put it in a booth on high for 5 to 7 days and make sure its really dry then dip in rust inhibitor /primer to stop the hidden unpainted areas rotting first. Cool channel though.
Maybe not in the city, but we have had cars blasted outside by mobile guys. Perfectly legal in Australia
Hi Ct
Excellent work
Thank you! =)
Nice progress 👍. It is hard work but it´s solid and the hard work will pay off. I hope that there is no bad surprise underneath the bondo.
Probably will but I believe he’s replacing the metal in those areas. I bet you the bottom corners behind the rear wheels have rust in them. These cars always rust in those areas.
c est une super idée tes ventilateurs 🤟
Been there mate, good work
I remember seeing some UA-cam videos where even the most severe ding is stretched back out. That left rear fender certainly has a couple of minor dings which I'm sure can be hammered back out.
Still enjoying the build and to see your perseverance. In one of your earlier videos, when you were sandblasting you mentioned the cost of the media. I watched a channel where the guy built his own sand blasting booth / room using tarps. When he was done he would sweep up the media, run it through a fine sieve and re-use it. Should save you a few $'s, but you may need to get a suit and helmet with a respirator. I believe that you do have some of those items already. Good luck, keep at it and thank you.
Your doing a great job, I can appreciate it’s a heck of a lot of work though. I have only ever rebuilt motorcycles but this is another level. It seems a pity to put more bondo in after all this work, suppose replacing the metal is a heck of a job. Please hang in there and get this done, it will be awesome. Regards Mike (UK)
filler was over paint so it would crack and too thick. He can re pound the metal. get it a bit more straight put some filler right over bare metal. and it will last just as long as new metal. Replace rusted through panels and it will be as good as new metal.
You're
Full body Acid dip would have been the way. But you go with what you have I guess.
Amazing job! Cheers from a Brazilian follower.
Thank you my friend! =)
Top Video top Arbeit 👍👍😎
Another good video 👌🏼 waiting for the next one ☝️
Thank you 🙌
Istimewa
felicitaciones buen trbajo
Отличный проект мне очень нравится. Молодец перфект. Я тоже мечтаю попасть в США и заниматься автомобилями. Для этого нужно Грин карт.
I love your videos. When sand blasting you are not focusing in the same area, you go and come back many times. I see this in all your sand blasting hhhh. I think it is better to stick in the same area until you finish it ..
Acid DIP ! That s the way to go!
good Job!!!! my Karmann is black swapped engine boxster S 2002....
Good progress. How do you fix those channels around the windscreen etc ? looks incredibly fiddly!
Great job so far CT. It would be great if you had a rotisary so you could do the unden side.
CT :) for holes areas like headlights use Scotch Brite Steel wool dry with no solution on and give light scrub after sandblast only and then get 400 soft grip sandpaper use it with water 60 % and 2 teaspoons of dish soap liquid of Yellow Sunlight type or one got no agents in it plain then squeeze water mix out also help Primer stick nicely to plus sandpaper later of 400 soft grip no solution needed with sand before paint up and 2 clear coats too! Also when done say holy moly that awesome Andrew why didn't think of that! Do on original paint CT :) and glad help you out !
You need to be care full with the sander. The heat concentrated in certain places will cause metal buckling that you don’t see until you lay paint on it. If you can’t get it blasted , using wet sanding is best, though labor intensive. Worth the effort.
The heat generation can indeed be a problem with a grinder. CT is using a DA sander, and the orbital action pretty well eliminates the overheating. I've sure enough been there when trying to use a flap wheel on an angle grinder.
CT, not sure if this will work on sandblasted metal, but I live in Hawaii and it’s humid like Florida. I’ll wipe down my bare metal with ospho and before it can dry I’ll clean it off with water. This keeps my metal from flash rusting for at least a year. The trick is to rinse the ospho before is drys. I don’t think urethane paint and or epoxy likes to bond to ospho residue…. So rinse well.
I had a 1970 karmann ghia. more stable then 1964 Porsche 356B I had back in the days. ghia's are superbly better and faster even with stock engine.
Way to go CT👍 you are keeping at it. I’m telling you, watch some of Weird Beard’s body work and paint videos, man. He gives a lot of great tips + he is very down to earth, just like you.
Thanks Michael! I will check him out.
CT shoulda hired a catering tent and put down a poly tarpaulin on the ground, That way you could have vaccumed up the used grit and reused it instead of all that waste.
Get a DA sander with a more aggressive orbit. Or even what we call a mud hog. Also, the ghia body has lead where the panels join so be careful with the paint stripper.
Thank you! That is good to know. I thought I saw lean in the corners. Looks like some small bits of brass as well.
çok güzel oluyor ellerine sağlık ;)
Good work! I hate sandblasting! It gets every where. On your person and in the car. When you are spraying the car, it will kick out of the crevices on your primer etc, but it looks like it’s getting it done. I’m going job that out.
Body work is the hardest thing to do, especially trying to get it straight. Good luck with that, I'm not good at body work and need lots more practice.
Co vid, I like that your compressor can't be heard. I'm planning on building a dog house for mine.
Try using your dustless blaster with glass bead and the rust inhibitor. sand blasting is a bit harsh on the body, could warp and pit it
Good progress ! May be concentrate the blasting on rusty parts that are difficult to reach with the wirewheel ?
Sandblasting makes a lot of dirt but not only, it actually spreads the micro bits of paint and oxides that will pollute the envioronment.It's something to do in your own camera.