Your videos not only explain how to do things you give great backup on the why so we understand the process. Thanks for your effort to share your videos.
Great video, the only missing item is pag46 oil. Mazda 3 09-13 take 20-25ml. Pag oil lubricates the ac compressor, some brands have uv dye in it to see any leaks in future. You.
No the system has an oil that circulates. They sell testers that confirm the oil in the system. They should be sold in the same place that sells the refrigerant
So I bought the nearly exact Red Tek product for mazda 3's AC. The only difference is the gauge is attched to the nozzle connect thr can. When I attached everything and turned the dail, the gauge shots up into the Red and stays there, the psi of the product is still in the yellow several hours after unhooking it. I know theres no refrigerate because its a 14 year car, so I'm stumped. I'm gonna try again using that screwdriver technique.
Was the car running? And if so was the ac pump spinning? It is possible that the ac pump has failed or the ac clutch isn't engaging. You might consider looking at the ac clutch relay to make sure it didn't die. Just something to consider if the system says its pressurized but no cold air is coming out of the vents.
As a side note I was on a course for my real job and there were 5 other people with Mazda 3s from the same era. Every single one had an ac that no longer worked. 100 percent failure rate out of 5 random people. One took his in to get fixed and he paid $900.
@@DIYNorth The car was running, although I'd have to look closer to see if the compressor was spinning. And before this I replace the blower motor resistor because the fan was only working at full blast, though to only got 1 and 2 working this time. When I first hooked up the hose to the low pressure value, the needle on the gauge didn't even move, is that encouraging? I really hope it's not a total failure, I can't afford that even before work cut my hours again.
@@thehalfblacksnack Lamens terms: the reason is that keeping all your windows or doors open is that you get the most fresh air through the return air ,(usually under the passenger side dashboard) over the evaporator coil , this way the refrigerant will boil quicker and the compressor will compress the liquid into gas more easily. In return the system (fan) doesn't have to struggle with all the hot air in the vehicle with the windows closed. In short you get a better charge. Imagine if you keep the window and doors closed, the system has to recycle the same air (static pressure interferes with the proper charge) .
If you are in the USA it probably won't be available as the 12a is a Canadian thing which is used to replace 134a. As I understand it can be bought in the USA. The link for something like I got is below. www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/red-tek-12a-a-c-refrigerant-recharge-kit-with-gauge-6-oz-0146129p.0146129.html?loc=plp
Can someone enlighten me about ac compressor how are they like. are they different in each car for example i have a mazda3 gx 4dr 2013 and i need a fixing on it but i need knowledge on what and how is it and can i put a 2010 ac compressor in it? and do they haev a particular code or number? and can someone tell me about a website or app where i can find the part with my cars VIN number
I order my stuff through rock auto. No vin required but you need to know which engine you have. A 2010 would likely fit, but if you get a junk yard one it might also not work. It might be worth having a garage do a diagnostic test to tell you exactly what the issue is before you tackle the ac compressor yourself. If this is one of your first big jobs on your car you really want to be sure what the issue is, as the ac compressor would be a challenging replacement. Not impossible though.
Hi, I also live in canada nad have 2012 mazda 3. GT. Do you think it's worthy to own an extended warranty. I can do some light maintenance, but not as good as you mate.
I've only had an extended warranty once and I never used it for anything. I'd only get one if it was a pretty good deal. The insurance company makes money off the product so they have to charge above what they pay out. If the car is known to be very reliable I wouldnt get the extended warranty, but if it's a less reliable car then I'd consider it a bit more.
@@nazar_ns7431 Does the A/C clutch engage when the engine is running and the A/C is on? Basically is the end spinning with the compressor pully, or is it just sitting still?
I have a 2011 Mazda 3 sedan that I bought brand new and the compressor is still coming on just fine and it's blowing cold air but I'm just wondering if I should recharge it simply because it's so old now and if it will make it blow even colder? It's 94° F right now here where I live and the AC is working but it's not fantastic but maybe that just might be as good as it gets? How do I know if I need to add refrigerant?
Your videos not only explain how to do things you give great backup on the why so we understand the process. Thanks for your effort to share your videos.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Great video, the only missing item is pag46 oil. Mazda 3 09-13 take 20-25ml. Pag oil lubricates the ac compressor, some brands have uv dye in it to see any leaks in future. You.
good recommendation.
Is page oil another name for a leak seal? Leak seal damages the compressor
No the system has an oil that circulates. They sell testers that confirm the oil in the system. They should be sold in the same place that sells the refrigerant
So I bought the nearly exact Red Tek product for mazda 3's AC. The only difference is the gauge is attched to the nozzle connect thr can.
When I attached everything and turned the dail, the gauge shots up into the Red and stays there, the psi of the product is still in the yellow several hours after unhooking it. I know theres no refrigerate because its a 14 year car, so I'm stumped.
I'm gonna try again using that screwdriver technique.
Was the car running?
And if so was the ac pump spinning?
It is possible that the ac pump has failed or the ac clutch isn't engaging.
You might consider looking at the ac clutch relay to make sure it didn't die.
Just something to consider if the system says its pressurized but no cold air is coming out of the vents.
As a side note I was on a course for my real job and there were 5 other people with Mazda 3s from the same era. Every single one had an ac that no longer worked. 100 percent failure rate out of 5 random people.
One took his in to get fixed and he paid $900.
@@DIYNorth The car was running, although I'd have to look closer to see if the compressor was spinning. And before this I replace the blower motor resistor because the fan was only working at full blast, though to only got 1 and 2 working this time.
When I first hooked up the hose to the low pressure value, the needle on the gauge didn't even move, is that encouraging?
I really hope it's not a total failure, I can't afford that even before work cut my hours again.
Hopefully it's an easy fix. Ac can be difficult
Thanks for sharing
thanks for checking it out
Hint: Never charge any vehicle a/c system with the doors closed. always open all doors while charging the system.
Is there a reason you feel every door must be open
Never heard of this before. What’s your reasoning?
@@thehalfblacksnack Lamens terms: the reason is that keeping all your windows or doors open is that you get the most fresh air through the return air ,(usually under the passenger side dashboard) over the evaporator coil , this way the refrigerant will boil quicker and the compressor will compress the liquid into gas more easily. In return the system (fan) doesn't have to struggle with all the hot air in the vehicle with the windows closed. In short you get a better charge. Imagine if you keep the window and doors closed, the system has to recycle the same air (static pressure interferes with the proper charge) .
Not necessary to have all the doors open. Just having windows open will recycle the air just as well.
@@ojiblady9496 your nitpicking, it's the same meat different gravy. Windows, Doors who gives a crap....
Im having trouble finding the kit. Whats the link or alternative?
If you are in the USA it probably won't be available as the 12a is a Canadian thing which is used to replace 134a. As I understand it can be bought in the USA.
The link for something like I got is below.
www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/red-tek-12a-a-c-refrigerant-recharge-kit-with-gauge-6-oz-0146129p.0146129.html?loc=plp
Can someone enlighten me about ac compressor
how are they like. are they different in each car for example i have a mazda3 gx 4dr 2013 and i need a fixing on it but i need knowledge on what and how is it and can i put a 2010 ac compressor in it?
and do they haev a particular code or number?
and can someone tell me about a website or app where i can find the part with my cars VIN number
I order my stuff through rock auto. No vin required but you need to know which engine you have.
A 2010 would likely fit, but if you get a junk yard one it might also not work.
It might be worth having a garage do a diagnostic test to tell you exactly what the issue is before you tackle the ac compressor yourself.
If this is one of your first big jobs on your car you really want to be sure what the issue is, as the ac compressor would be a challenging replacement. Not impossible though.
Hi, I also live in canada nad have 2012 mazda 3. GT. Do you think it's worthy to own an extended warranty. I can do some light maintenance, but not as good as you mate.
I've only had an extended warranty once and I never used it for anything.
I'd only get one if it was a pretty good deal.
The insurance company makes money off the product so they have to charge above what they pay out. If the car is known to be very reliable I wouldnt get the extended warranty, but if it's a less reliable car then I'd consider it a bit more.
Hey mine says that it’s overcharged and I didn’t even put anything in there, my ac blows cold but not cold enough, you know how I can fix this?
Does it read over charged when it's running or when it's off?
@@DIYNorth when it’s running
I’m trying to figure it out right now but I can’t see what the problem is
@@DIYNorth I already let it out and refilled it but it still won’t work
@@nazar_ns7431 Does the A/C clutch engage when the engine is running and the A/C is on? Basically is the end spinning with the compressor pully, or is it just sitting still?
Does the car have to be on when poking the low pressure side?
Even when the car isnt running there is still some pressure on the low and high sides
I have a 2011 Mazda 3 sedan that I bought brand new and the compressor is still coming on just fine and it's blowing cold air but I'm just wondering if I should recharge it simply because it's so old now and if it will make it blow even colder? It's 94° F right now here where I live and the AC is working but it's not fantastic but maybe that just might be as good as it gets? How do I know if I need to add refrigerant?
If it works I would probably leave it
If it's just checking the charge it would be best to go to a shop and they can do a more comprehensive test.
@@DIYNorth Canadians are so darn nice. Subscribed. Thank you!
@@llamaskank thanks for the sub
If it's not broke, don't touch it.
no vacuum?
no vacuum
Good stuff
Thanks for watching
Thanks for using Fahrenheit for the 'Murricans lol
lol, way over half my views come from the States. I have to give the people what they want.
What about the ac oil?
they make testers for that, and separate re-charge bottles.