I had a '92 Camry years ago. Mechanic wanted $1200 to retrofit the A/C sytem from R12 to 134A. He advised me not to do it myself because I would damage the whole system. I went to Wal-Mart and just bought the kit for $35. It worked great for years afterwards, until I sold the car. $1200 vs $35
It's also really important to not put gasoline in your gas tank. If you are not a rained petrocarbons technician, you will probably not know how to operate the gas cover release port properly, nor how to open the cap system. You will probably try to put the wrong fuel into the shortage tank, and either under-fill, or - more dangerously, over-fill the tank. This could lead to a dangerous fluid spill, which is really bad for the environment, and might actually cause a huge fireball explosion, possibly killing many people. No, you are much better off leaving everything to the proper, trained technicians. You're barely smart enough to drive YOU the gas station. So, make yourself an appointment with the automobile engine starting specialist, and hire a TRAINED professional to drive you to the gas station. Once there, their official automobile positioners will safely guide your vehicle into the fueling bay, while you watch nervously from the observation room. A highly-trained hydrocarbon specialist will determine the correct fuel, and with the assistance of a fuel door release mechanic, - who will safely open the fuel door cover and remove the delicate "gasoline cap" (an unfortunate misnomer, as it's NOT made from gasoline), will then be able to inject the correct amount to fuel your vehicle. After the fuel door release mechanic has conducted the proper safety checks and reverse the un-capping procedure, he will be able to carefully re-close the fuel door cover assembly. This is NOT a job for the untrained! They will have care of scheduling the automobile positioner to carefully move your vehicle out of the fueling bay, and you can rejoin you car to wait for a follow-up visit from the station's automobile engine starting specialist. This is usually a complimentary service provided by the "gas" station, but this varies from town to town - but don't be shy about tipping.
When I find a legendary comment that caused my significant other to awaken from her sleep because she thought I was making weird squeaky noises trying so hard not to laugh out loud thank you
Here is the argument for those cans. My car is a rust bucket that I would be surprised if it lasts over 2 years so getting the AC working for just one season for $9 is well worth it
felt this, my car is from 1998 and barely gets 19mpg like i am not attached enough to spend as much as i bought the car for in order to professionally fix my ac
I suppose people shouldn't change their own oil either because apparently simple maintenance takes rocket scientists now days. Gone are the days of common sense, now we must pay people to do everything for us.
Always go to a mechanic and spend $5000 for a re-charge. Also remember, if your tires are low on air, there is almost always a leak. Bring them to Firestone and request new tires immediately.
I’m shocked a mechanic would encourage you to give him hundreds of dollars instead of dropping $25 and DIY. If you break the AC on your hooptie who cares it was broken before you started.
@@TrojanLube69 lol my question is hat do you think is going to break by adding freion if it don't work... Oh well you have a leak lol only argument I heard was bad for invorment
Been adding freon to my cars by can for 40+ years...never had a single problem...surprised to learn I did it all wrong...will continue to do it the wrong way since it works perfectly for me every time.
This guy makes good points. But the part that he isn’t talking about is all the crooked mechanics/technicians that makes you turn to products like AC pro in the first place!
@russcsra BINGO! It is nearly impossible to find competent and honest mechanics in many areas today...so you might spend thousands and still not have your issue resolved you might make the problem worse or end up with new problems..sabotage is a real problem today in the auto repair business...
@@horseathalt7308 agreed 100% and irritatingly so, I just replaced the timing belt on my wife’s Honda. The last time it was done it went to a shop because I didn’t have the time myself. What did I find? Missing tensioner hardware, a broken lower cover from forced installation, paint pen marks NOT in reference with the factory timing marks, oddly torqued hardware and in general some pretty basic shoddy workmanship. That’s the 3rd time in my life I’ve used a shop that I didn’t work at and I’m 54. I’ve been burned every time I’ve been to a ‘’tru$ted’’ or ‘’certified’’ mechanic. It also seems like they spend far more time writing up a heavily padded ‘’detailed invoice’’ instead of performing correct service procedures. I feel sorry for people that lack mechanical skills and newbs who are deterred by guys like this. He could have easily made a tutorial instead but the fear factor, intimidation and in my case, the loose/missing hardware I 🤬 found must generate a lot of return business. The Johnson rod joke (in realty) isn’t nearly as funny as folks think. Keep on wrenchin’!!! 👍
@@monkfry Thank God for honest mechanics like Scotty Kilmer. I'm getting ready to do the timing belt in my own Honda that I've had for 15 years and still runs flawless. I'm no mechanic but I do my own maintenance (STUFF THAT'S CLASSIFIED AS DIY) I'm confident I can get this job done as I've watched plenty of Scotty's and even Chris Fix videos. After reading your testimony now I'm sure I'll get it done. Yep keep on wrenchin' 😆
@@josephbell2160 Break it and learn if you have to. It’s cheaper and you’re better off being self sufficient anyway. Lots of good info floating around these days. We used to use books hah, and just wait till you get your OEM parts. Maybe they fit maybe not. . Live and learn.
My 21 year old Chevy S10 (78k miles) I had the AC leak out I guess. The shop filled it and only charged me $200 but it only lasted the season I will have to do it again. They thought they had fixed it with some part but that didn't happen, it leaked out again. So I might try these cans just because I have a couple on hand but has anyone done it on an S10? This might be too old for anyone to see.
I repaired my 2000 Lincoln which had a clogged orifice. Watched a few educational videos which showed me how to evacuate and vacuum the system, recharge, and what values to look out for on high and low side using a rented Autozone manifold and gauge set. Worked incredibly well and the cost was the orifice and refrigerant, saving me at least $1000. This video was not one of those educational videos.
I think it’s safe to say most DYI individuals do some research to see if they can handle certain projects. I doubt anyone just “jump up” and do stuff without any knowledge about the risk involved. Don’t be scared fellow DIY individuals, do your research and make an educated decision on whether or not its risky/doable 🤷🏾♂️
If we’re gonna use a 20 year old car as an example, I would rather add refrigerant to the system rather than forking whatever the “mechanic” wants to charge.
They want to change be $1000 to fix a very slow 6 months leak. It will take 40 to 50 years of canisters to justify that expenditure. Unless the whole system just fails.
I love 1A Auto videos, they’re always extremely helpful, but this video I disagree with wholeheartedly. I recharged the A/C on my 2003 Honda Accord EX 2.4L myself, and it went from not working at all to working as good as new! It’s been running for over a year with zero issues. 🥶
I agree with you on this one, my wife and daughter both own 2007 Suzuki SX4's and their A/C's both stopped blowing cold air in the summer of 2018 due to freezing evaporator coils. When the refrigerant pressure gets low, it gets too cold and the evaporator coil freezes stopping good airflow. I bought some 134A refrigerant with a leak sealer and serviced them both 4 years ago, this summer they are both still blowing very nicely. Only thing he said that was worth listening to is that you probably have a leak. Thus, you should use a refrigerant with leak sealer. He has a conflict of interest since he is in the business of servicing air conditioners. What he is actually saying is pay someone like me, we'll be glad to take your money,
@@TheUnknownHarbingers Actually if your ac system has very slow leak (takes many years for leakage to occur) then it's very worth it. My car had ac which slowly leaked over years. It still has some pressure, meaning there is no air or moisture in the system. All I need to do is top off and I am good for several more years.
I just had this video telling us to not charge the system ourselves and one from 1A Auto from 7 years ago showing us how to charge the AC system pop up on my feed at the same time. If you're going to tell people to not do it then maybe you should take off the old video that shows how to charge the system. Just sayin'.
You do have many good videos but I disagree about this video. An average person with some Mechacanal skill can easily do this without causing any damage. Typically going to a mechanic shop to have the A/C charged or fixed ends up with the shop telling you that you need all new A/C components and a price of over $2,000 to fix. It sucks that so many shops are scum and just want to rip people off.
Excellent point. Just recently, I had AC put back into my 05 Mazda 3 since I did not want to do another summer in Las Vegas with no AC. Even with my buying a compressor, condenser, and a couple lines, the bill for labor was still $980!!
Meh if you know a little about cars find a good work at home mechanic. They have zero overhead and tend to be honest I'm a skilled electrician and did about a hour of research new what my problem with my ac was. I changed jobs did not have my tools with me. So I got a dude with a nice garage he was honest and his price was good. Granted don't forget they need to make a living to but he did a great job for price. Always look for mechanics not running out of a dealer or a brand shop they are overpriced and know what you need.
Ah ah ah, i beg to differ. I can fack anything up in the most insane ways. I rented a manifold guage set after 24oz of refrigerant was wasted, in which the air got colder and then went back to hot, ans then muffed up to where refrigerant sprayed out of the yellow hose i tried to utilize because "hey, there must be some reason for the 3rd hose".... This is after 8 months spending every waking moment under the hood. I know computers, i know psychology.... I DO NOT belong under a hood.
I never had an issue adding freon to my own vehicle, We had a 1999 expedition we bought with 150k on it, we had to add freon every season so the leak was small, we decided to add a can of stop leak and never had to touch it again, the a/c system outlasted two engines, I live in Ga so we used the a/c a lot, we scraped the truck with 394K on it
I’m not a mechanic, just have little knowledge with cars, so I’m just adding my 2 cents from my recent experiences. When your AC starts to blow warm air, it’s 99% that it’s caused by a refrigerant leak somewhere in the AC system. So the first challenge is to find where the leak is coming from. In my case I used refrigerant with UV dye and a UV flashlight. Once the leak/s is found, it needs to be fixed. Once the leak is fixed, the AC system/lines must be vacuumed to remove the moisture. During the vacuum process, you can check if the leak/s was actually fixed or not. Once you’ve determined the leak was fixed, and the vacuum confirms there’s no more leak in the system, then you can proceed to recharge/add new refrigerant. So topping off the refrigerant is easy. Finding where the leak is, fixing the leak, and pulling a vacuum in the system is the difficult part.
20 years... this may be true for old cars using old refrigerant. The new expensive eco refrigerant R1234yf(mandatory on all vehicles from 2021) requires top up every 3-5 year, the system will just drop in pressure and stop working. In this case using such a DYI can is a good idea, there is no benefit going to the shop, other maybe of removing the moisture from the system. Even if the shop mechanics do all the operations correctly and use the correct and clean materials they will still rip you off. If you still have pressure in the system means you have a good chance a refill is all you need. And one more, if you don't have oil leaks(that are visible with the eye along the AC system) you should not use a can with oil, simple use clean refrigerant.
My local repair guy recharged my system for 150 bucks and it lasted the while summer and most of the winter. Spring now and no ac, I have a leak but my car is 10 years old. I can spare the 10 bucks a year to refill vs the God knows how much repairs would cost!
r134a has a GWP of 1400. Meaning for every gram of refrigerant leaked into the atmosphere, is equivalent to 1400g of co2 released into the atmosphere. Most vehicles require on average 500g of refrigerant. Do the math, get the leak fixed properly.
@@Jeff-gb5rt about what a single human gives off naturally in three days, though in his scenario gives off in about 9 months. The world is going to be fine.
I took my motor home to the Volvo truck dealer in Oakland to have my a/c serviced. $1800 and a new compressor later, the system still leaks. So much for paying a shop. So with all due respect for your experience and skills, sir, no. I’m not going to keep handing my money to you.
If auto mechanic shops wouldn't be so greedy and charge an arm and a leg to recharge the A/C. Everyone would not hesitate to take their cars to a shop. First thing they do is charge money for an "Inspection", then if you are lucky they will be honest and say.. it's just an O Ring and well charge you $10 to replace it. Plus the cost of freon.
Well they don’t work for free the diagnostic takes time away from other work then whatever is broken needs to be ordered and installed and yes refrigerant is not free either shops pay money too stock up on all the different kinds out there. Like you guys expect to not have to pay anything
@@ryans413 R-134a is the only kind used in cars after 1990 there isn't anything else to stock up on if you tell those older drivers too bad. its the same stuff used in your refrigerator or AC at home. its the only stuff companies will use on refrigeration systems these days. there isn't hundreds of different kinds to stock up on only ONE.
I love the, "hey man I need my ac rechagred" "alright well we will have to preform a $100 diagnostic check before we do any work and then another $100 if the ac is the issue, just to spend 10 minutes holding a tool over the hood of your car".
Funny how every time a "professional" tells me I shouldn't do the work myself, it's always a pile of bull so I'll pay them to do it instead. Even funnier how I go out and learn it and get it done myself and there's no issues.
Actually if you put too much Freon in your system. It will blow it out the compressor relief valve. It did this on my 2004 Trailblazer. My a/c it still working fine 8 years later. It wasn’t leaking I had to replace the harmonic balancer. 2:25 I’ve never used a vacuum pump in my life. Moisture has not hurt my system in 8 years.
My ac went out. A local mechanic wanted $800 plus. That was parts and labor. I wanted a break down estimate. I ended up buying the parts myself (compressor, valves, evaporator, o rings, condenser, etc) and the same mechanic wanted $600. I found another mechanic with my parts only wanted $300. Some mechanics over charge and that makes people want to do things themselves. Ac work is a specific type work and should be fairly compensated but it can get ridiculous
@Night Rider Hi I hope your a/c is fixed by now, but if not you can just let some of the refrigerant out. Just use the hose that it came with, then cover one end with a big towel and release the pressure a little bit at a time. Also don't forget to use eye protection. I will warn you that it is bad for the environment and if you can swing it, you should take it to a mechanic. But if your having a tough time paying a mechanic that is the quick fix, I know because I recently did the same thing.
2 different mechanics wanted $700 - $800 just for labor to replace my ac compressor, plus the parts. I bought it from Rockauto, borrowed a vac pump and did it myself in about 2 hours. Only spent $150 in parts. If you can do it, do it. Only take it to a mechanic if you feel you can't do it by yourself.
I agree that you should absolutely use caution when servicing the hvac in a vehicle, but as they say, it ain't rocket surgery. And a proper vacuum pump and cheap manifold gauge set can be purchased for less than $200 and can be used to service ones own hvac not only in vehicles but refrigerators that use R134A and other devices like window ac units. I'm not saying to buy one of those kits and dive head first in, but the knowledge is available to properly diagnose and fix these systems fairly simply, saving tons of money in the long run.
Most of the mechanics today are crooks, they robed me for 1,000 and didn't do anything to the car, but I finally found a good mechanic when I need something done, but I usually do it myself
Have a minivan from 2006 I checked the freon with gauge it was reading empty 0 psi add 3 cans of r134 myself and now it read full 50psi and blows cold air. Mechanic told me i need a new compressor and all kinds of parts quoted me $7000 which is more than what vans is worth with 185000 miles on it.
I've done 2 cars with these. Both only required a tiny amount of gas to bring the cold air back and both been absolutely fine ever since. You're talking about putting 4 cans in. I'm talking about putting 4 squirts in. Sadly when it's 39c in England every aircon pro is fully booked and only open during my work hours. Can of gas delivered to my door and 10 minutes topping up is ideal.
These videos are meant for them to make more business and scare you into bringing in your cars to the shops so they can charge you like crazy. I understand they are trying to be safe and all that other stuff. But hey, some things we do wil save us money and money rules all. I watch videos all the time that have worked and saved me money. But the very 1st video I seen with this guy I got the vibe quick, they don't like us diy mechanics and we all know why 🤑
The issue is, different system need different type of oil. Canned refrigerant already has oil in there, which will jelly up when mixed with non-compatible. This will cause damage to the compressor. Yeah, other things can diy, but not a/c. It is like putting wrong type of Cvt oil. It is good in short run, but catastrophic failure when it is in stress state.
These guys are not advertising a business. They work for 1A Auto so unless they are telling you to buy their parts they are trying to be honest. It is not like they are telling you to go to a certain repair shop because they are getting kickbacks for the business.
That's all well and good when you live in the warmer states but in the rust belt we're not going to fork over $500 - $1,000 or more to fix the AC on a 15-20 year old car that is going to be in a scrap yard in a few years anyway. We'll throw in a can or two for a couple summers for $10-$20 and call it good.
If you add the a12 or similar little by little in the low pressure port while the engine is running and the AC is on while monitoring the temperature after each addition, you can quite easily spot when you have the right amount added to your system. If you go to high it is very easy to let out some of the gas and find the sweet spot again. It is of no particular problem that it is flammable as it is such a low volume.
It's actually not that hard if you already know that your system is slowly leaking (and it's not worth fixing). Now if your system is not leaking and you add more you can break things. Make sure you have isolated it down to the leak being the only problem. Meaning you checked that fans are working, the vents are opened up and direction not stuck to blowing air to the windshield or feet, that your compressor is actually working, and your cabin filters are not clogged up. To add refrigerant ignore the cheap gauge and instead do it in 2 second bursts. Do 1 or 2 burst and drive around the block and feel the vents. If it's still warm do another burst. I've only ever need to add like 10 seconds of refrigerant to my car. If around 8 seconds you don't feel any change in temp from the vents I would stop pumping more refrigerant because at the point it might not be the problem.
Here’s my tip this one gets overlooked really easy if your AC just quits to the point you have no clutch engagement at all but all the electrical checks out all fuses and relays are good and you see no leaks at any hoses or connections. A clogged Orifice Tube could be your problem this would restrict refrigerant flow either causing a high pressure or low pressure in the system the pressure switch would then tell the computer not to ground the clutch relay and fan relays so no AC action would happen. For this you need to see a mechanic so they could pull a vacuum and replace the orifice tube. It’s the AC systems filter and overtime like any filter it can get clogged. Really simple one to over look.
As an automotive design engineer I can honestly say that these systems can be built to be bulletproof but corporate profits and stock price matters more than quality. If you get lucky and get one that doesn't after years, you are a lucky SOB and should play the lottery immediately. I just had to watch this video because of the description.
My 16 year old Civic has a slow leak. Has for like 5 years now. I put in a like 15 dollar can at the beginning of summer and my AC blows cold at 40F when it's 75F outside. At the start of the next summer (before I refill) at 75F outside car blows around 62F. Gauge shows it's on the very low end of the "green" bar. Shows 2/3rds up "green" bar after filled. Lasts a year for 15 bucks, and has done that for 5 years now. If I ever do need to fix more, I will. But for now I'm saving money every year.
I always recharge my own AC and sometimes I use the super cold additive and my 99 Avalon I can get the temperature inside down to about 45 degrees which is just wonderful when it's 105 outside
Took mine in to get recharged I also wanted a can of stop leak added. The ac worked but not well. After taking it in the ac didnt work at all. They said the compressor was screwed. I took it to another guy and found the first place had taken out the refriigerant. I had it filled and had a stop leak added. It now works fine. I have since heard that the first garage had a rep of wanting to change out compressors (at 1200 a pop). Be wary of where you get it done
Master tech of 20 years here. Just read the instructions on how to use the cans with a gauge. Look up how many ounces your system takes and just don't go over. Now granted, if you have a system leak it won't solve the problem, but you can absolutely do this yourself and not have any issues whatsoever. What a load of garbage.
Respectfully disagree on this one , recharged A/C in my 2008 Mitsubishi Lancer after it stopped cooling on the passenger then on the driver side, used about 5-6 oz of A/C Pro brand R-134a , bumped PSI from 34 to 45 and it’s now cooling on both sides like it’s a new A/C . Guessing that a small crack developed in O-ring or rubber hoses , so the product that I’ve used suppose to expand rubber and seal those cracks, will see. The problem was fixed in 15 min vs going to a mechanic and probably being told that the A/C needs to be replaced for $2000. Even if I have to recharge again after some time , so what, the car is 15 years old, not worth spending $$$ to find and fix the leak . As for the environment, I’m concerned about the impact , but the refrigerant was already slowly leaning to begin with and hopefully the new additives would stop that .
Haha!! Love the comments! I have a 2008 jeep patriot that I recently put freon in because it was blowing warm. Was so easy, worked like a charm and cost me $35.!! So yeah, no. You CAN do it yourself. Do be careful not to fill it too full, tho.
On one hand, this is all 100% sound advice that anyone thinking about servicing needs to be aware of. So, thank you.. And on the other hand, be wary of shortcut service shops who will lazy-recharge the system just like you're about to do yourself in the Napa parking lot. Yes, been there, done that. To get home without dying of heat exhaustion.
I've worked in the industry for well over 35 years...the people who tried to sell us an AC machine, were crooks...they said you need to remove the freyon then replace...I said, wtf are you talking about, there's absolutely no freon in the lines, that's why the AC stops working due to non interaction with freon... Everytime someone comes for AC recharge, I check the system and lines, pressurize then let out the remaining pressure and fill with can of AC, usually last 5 to 6 years
@@randysimmons9838 Scotty is full of crap. I just called him out on his latest video where he promotes the refrigerant can. 2 years ago though, he made a video similar to this one where he discourages the exact same can (same brand and everything). Bottom line is we are smart enough to understand what is happening in a sealed system. If it's no longer sealed, than.... that's bad! And feeding more refrigerant a-la willie neely is only going to create more problems or, at the very least just be a temporary solution for a problem that is only going to get worse.
I did it myself 9 years ago, and it's still working great. Don't listen to this guy. If there is a leak, check the Schrader valves first. Then vacuum, and refill.
If you know what you’re doing, repair your own car. Why pay $50 per pound of the same refrigerant, PLUS labor, when you can pull a vacuum, and use a scale for a fraction of the cost. Chris Fix It has a great video on how to properly recharge your ac with these cans of Freon.
Now, here's the biggest problem with automotive air conditioning systems. The problem is with the trained, certified, professional air conditioning repair technicians and shops. Absolute horror stories are EVERYWHERE concerning the insane pricing, rip off pricing and shop doing work that doesn't need to be done. You have at least a 95 percent chance of paying thousands of dollars for unnecessary work and parts replacement. Shops will refuse to service your A/C system if it has the most minor leak, which could be recharged and last for several years and they will quote government regulations about your little leak being vented to the atmosphere. Most shops will refuse to use a "stop-leak" additive to seal very minor leaks. Why can I purchase a 15K window air conditioner for under $500, which will cool a 20 ft. X 20 ft. X 9 ft. room and a vehicle A/C unit is driven by the vehicle engine, so no separate motor is required to drive the compressor. , yet a national shop in my area quoted $2,800 to repair a minor leakage from my auto A/C system and offered a 30 day warranty? I refused the recommended service from the shop and bought an A/C recharge kit for $86.00 (R-134a refrigerant, connection hose and gauge) and my vehicle blew ice cold for two summers. When my vehicle again began to blow above 55 deg. F two years later, I just had to purchase the refrigerant can only for $59 to get the temperature at the vents back down to 38 deg. F. $145.00 for four years of summer season air conditioning is a reasonable cost. The scumbag shops and technicians have made the average consumer scared to death to knock on their doors.
Thanks, mate, but I'mma side with the comments and give it a go myself. I've a 96 Camaro with a leaky back hatch, peeling paint, cracked leather seats, and a wicked cassette player. So if I drive my Chevy to the levvy and the AC is dry, I guess this'll be the day that I die.
This guy presents himself as smart experience one. I would like to ask him: How many measurements did he take? How many experiments did he do? To know that he is not talking nonsense? He presents his opinions here as verified facts and that is manipulative...
So how does the oil thing work and what does it do? How does it get distributed through the system and what are its target areas, and how is it made sure to get there?
That is an awesome question! Never quite understood the oil. Don't drink it! - this guy is right about that, beyond that it's a mystery. I dont see where it will be a disaster to have a little too much.
@@jamesmack3266 ummm. Dam if do and dam if you don't. Does the compressor lose oil when freon leaks. Does a car AC decifer which is freon or oil even if they both flow through the same system. Hmmmm?
Its true that you can ruin your system if you screw up. I have done this once and blew my compressor on a Corolla that would be really expensive to fix due yo labor alone. But every other A/C job i have done was a success, whether it was a recharge, repairing leaks, replacing lines, or completely gutting and upgrading fhe system on an old corvette. Know the risks and make your choice, that's all there is to it
Notorious slow leakers like older Volvos need a can a season, no leak ever found after the previous owner forked over a couple bills every season for 15 years. Nah, I’ll pay 4.99 for a can.
I trust trained professionals around here as far as I can throw them. You know, trained professionals, the guys who want to install new air filters for $150 a pop, and want to flush all liquids every 20k.
My AC wasn’t working. I called a mechanic shop was told they’ll charge me $150 just to check + whatever they would charge me to fix it. Did some research online, tested the lines myself & i saved more than $500.
all I heard is that it may last me a season, and boom thats all I needed to hear. Saved me over 300 bucks man, thanks...and guess what? next season all I need to spend is another 30 bucks on 2 cans. Best advice ever
07 jeep liberty. 3.7. Replaced the ac compressor. Clutch turns on and off as it should. Checked the pressure sensor on the passenger side against the firewall. It is working as it should. Checked the pressure sensor in line above the compressor. It is working as it should. Checked the freon. It is full (over full). Still blowing hot air. Need the next option to check. I'm lost at this point. There is nothing left to replace.
I agree, bringing to a professional is always good advice. However, a better video for you to do is how to find an actual professional. At this point, I have ZERO faith in mechanics anywhere, from dealerships that are supposed to hire the best, to specialty garages, for so many reasons. The quality control in the industry is really an issue for many of us, even so-called reputable locations, so I hope that service facilities are listening.
Thanks for this video, I appreciate some of the tips, they are great. There is pros and cons on this video. Professional service certainly carefree. The cost is much much more. My area is charging $285.00 If we can learn how to do it ourself, it is cost effective in the long one. I do have a mechanic I can trust. Here is why? I ask them to replace the brake lining and they said it is not due yet. I left. They could have sell me the parts and charged me the labor. As for the A/CI did it myself and following instructions, my car A/C has gone from 60F to 49F. Since it is a 2016 car I do not expect it to be leak free even with professional service. There is not much I can do to fixe the leak and is very expensive to overall the A/C system. I will replace the car a year or so.
A vacuum pump and a set of guages are around $150 freon for the average vehicle is around $30 my mechanic shop hired a new service manager that charged me $250 twice to recharge after a motor swap. Only to verify that the mechanic Only pulled a vacuum on the system. So i already paid $500 for the shop to do nothing but tell me it'd cost $1200 more to get it running. Needless to say I learned how to do it myself in 30 minutes. My ac works wonderful now and I tell everyone I can about the shop I was a loyal customer to for over 20 years
My vehicle is 20 years old and the A/C works fine (like what you talk about at the beginning of the video). Does it mean there is no need to get the A/C system serviced by professional? Some people say we have to re-gas the system every 1-2 years to keep things clean in order not to damage the compressor. Would 20 years old original refrigerant and oil cause problems?
The guy in the video claims it's working fine.... meanwhile it's only putting out 60 degrees out the dash which really isn't called cooling, usually a system should put out about 44/43 degrees.
While the points are valid what this video neglects to take into account is the following scenario: someone trying to limp along a leaking system that will require a full overhaul when repaired anyway
Things I've done on my daily driver '02 Focus Zetec: Brakes (new discs, pads, hard lines, rubber hoses, fluid) Exhaust (new mufflers, catconv, seals, bolts) Suspension (new wheel bearings, bushings, bolts, springs, shocks, paint job) Cooling (new thermostat housing, new fluid) Clutch master cylinder (new) Serp belt with tensioner (new) At home, with my own tools. Excuses moi, por favor!
I put a vacuum on mine for like an hour, then fill it up with the cans through a high/low pressure gauge I got from Harbor Freight. I leak out the air in the hose before I open the valve to the system to ensure no air goes in. Will the method I use be sufficient?
I did the job to a 2013 Honda CRV for 50 bux with the leak detector. It worked perfectly fine and blew colder than ever before. First time doing it with little mechanical skills, just followed a well made video. Any average person can do it with the proper guidance. Although I only did it to a system that had no refrigerant.
I went to a garage to top up my ac, was about £100. I asked why it was so much and they said it’s because of all the extra stuff they do, as mentioned in the video as well as checking for leaks after the top up, so I just got it done. A week later it stopped working again… I would’ve gone back but the place was 120 miles away when I was on holiday so yeah, I’m going to have a crack at it myself. 🤷♂️
They may've done a poor job on purpose because that mask is a big red flag that your a lunatic liberal. Not many mechanics are Liberals just so ya know. Good luck with the DIY
I found and fixed my leak its been YEARS since its been empty, Is adding oil through a charge the same as adding it directly on to the compressor? If so it safe to assume most of the oil got out?
A common misdiagnosed problem with the AC not working is vehicle blend doors not actuating properly. However, for me my AC quit in the middle of my hour long drive home from work. Upon investigation I could see the AC clutch wasn't spinning and discovered a blown fuse. Replaced the fuse and it immediately popped again. The bearings in the compressor seized (not the clutch). Replaced the compressor, and added recharged the system myself. My vehicle is 21yrs old and has over 300k miles on it. Definitely not taking it to the shop for anything.
Learn to do it yourself and save thousands even work on your own at home. Get an evacuation pump that will do your house and your car. You can use both of them on the same unit just different gauges
Thanks, good info. My 1996 Ford Ranger minipickup with 4 liter V6 is used pretty rarely and for short times. Been great, AC never serviced before as it always worked fine. But about 6 months ago, I noticed the AC wasn't as cold, and shortly after, it wasn't cold at all. Turned AC on and the compressor isn't turning (clutch not engaged). I know there's a safety if there's no refrigerant to keep it from turning on. Side note, it sat for about 5 years unused and not started about 3 years ago. Questions: 1. Two wires to compressor clutch, are they power and ground so I can test for ground and apply 12v to it (engine off) and to test if it'll engage? 2. I picked up a set of AC gauges, on normal system, with engine off for hours, should there be pressure in both low and high sides? I'd like to do preliminary investigation before paying someone to diagnose. I'm guessing a hose has failed, vs. the compressor (since it did blow not so cold, then none, vs. compressor failing, meaning suddenly no cold at all). 3. Assuming a hose has failed and I replace it (refrigerant already gone so no need to evactuate/recycle), do I need to replace any other parts? (Can't remember the name of the part but it's like a filter including for water, I think, vs. the compressor, condenser and evaporator). Thanks, RichE San Diego, CA
The part you can't remember is called a drier. It's filled with desiccant to remove any moisture/water. If a hose failed, you would need to draw a vacuum on the line of about 30"ha (30 inches of mercury). This is to remove all the air and moisture from the lines before adding the refrigerant and oil. At that vacuum water will boil at room temperature and will be removed from the lines with the air.
1 you can test clutch operation at the relay pull out the relay jump the pins clutch should engage. 2 there’s usually one or two pressure switches when pressure too high or too low it stops the computer from grounding the clutch relay and fan relays from coming on. 3 yes both high and low sides should have pressure you wanna see more pressure on the suction line the low side if the high sides too high the system won’t work properly
not the best advise, I mean sure if you have a 70k vehicle take it to the shop but if you have a 20 year old work truck, and its 102 degrees on monday and payday isnt until friday, throw a can in to keep you cool.
1) O'Reilly and AutoZone both loan out the vacuum pump and the dual gauge manifold for free. Pick up one of those. 2) grab a cheap kitchen scale and weigh the can full. Then add refrigerant until the can gets lighter by the right amount. It's more complicated than just dumping one of those cans in, but not as complicated as you make it seem.
I used to put refrigerant in my 89 and 91 Oldsmobile Cutlass my 2003 Ford Explorer my 92 Geo Metro my 91 Ford Explorer my 06 vibe and I know I'm missing one... I was just about to say no damage done but of course they were already on their last legs and I drove them till they were no more. so I guess technically I don't know if the damage is done
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
What causes frost to come out my vents, like little icicles , I need help with this.
On
EXACTLY
Did... you... not watch your own video telling us not to do this?
hypocrite, don't sell the product if you say it'll damage your vehicle.
Yeah, never fill it yourself, always go to a mechanic so they can screw you over
I had a '92 Camry years ago.
Mechanic wanted $1200 to retrofit the A/C sytem from R12 to 134A. He advised me not to do it myself because I would damage the whole system. I went to Wal-Mart and just bought the kit for $35.
It worked great for years afterwards, until I sold the car.
$1200 vs $35
+Firetown33 Thanks for the feedback!
It's also really important to not put gasoline in your gas tank. If you are not a rained petrocarbons technician, you will probably not know how to operate the gas cover release port properly, nor how to open the cap system. You will probably try to put the wrong fuel into the shortage tank, and either under-fill, or - more dangerously, over-fill the tank. This could lead to a dangerous fluid spill, which is really bad for the environment, and might actually cause a huge fireball explosion, possibly killing many people.
No, you are much better off leaving everything to the proper, trained technicians.
You're barely smart enough to drive YOU the gas station.
So, make yourself an appointment with the automobile engine starting specialist, and hire a TRAINED professional to drive you to the gas station. Once there, their official automobile positioners will safely guide your vehicle into the fueling bay, while you watch nervously from the observation room.
A highly-trained hydrocarbon specialist will determine the correct fuel, and with the assistance of a fuel door release mechanic, - who will safely open the fuel door cover and remove the delicate "gasoline cap" (an unfortunate misnomer, as it's NOT made from gasoline), will then be able to inject the correct amount to fuel your vehicle.
After the fuel door release mechanic has conducted the proper safety checks and reverse the un-capping procedure, he will be able to carefully re-close the fuel door cover assembly.
This is NOT a job for the untrained!
They will have care of scheduling the automobile positioner to carefully move your vehicle out of the fueling bay, and you can rejoin you car to wait for a follow-up visit from the station's automobile engine starting specialist.
This is usually a complimentary service provided by the "gas" station, but this varies from town to town - but don't be shy about tipping.
Love it.
Most unnerving and greatest thing I've ever read
golden!!!!
I'm with ya brother. 😆 I have a piece of junk old elantra. I recharged it and saved hundreds doing it myself and the car is nice and cold now
When I find a legendary comment that caused my significant other to awaken from her sleep because she thought I was making weird squeaky noises trying so hard not to laugh out loud
thank you
Here is the argument for those cans. My car is a rust bucket that I would be surprised if it lasts over 2 years so getting the AC working for just one season for $9 is well worth it
Exactly.
It might take 50 years of cans to justify getting a $1000 fix on a car you are going to replace as soon as you can.
felt this, my car is from 1998 and barely gets 19mpg like i am not attached enough to spend as much as i bought the car for in order to professionally fix my ac
rust bucket car guy where do you buy ac refill can for $9 everywhere I look there $16.00+ $12 core charge
Fair point 😆😆😆
What if you accidentally eat the can, or get it in your ear? The dangers of doing this are endless. My uncle accidentally sat on his can.
I suppose people shouldn't change their own oil either because apparently simple maintenance takes rocket scientists now days. Gone are the days of common sense, now we must pay people to do everything for us.
I'm the other hand, I can do simple repairs to my PC.
i would try it myself first- ac should leak some to lube the seals
Love it
@@ufartface EXACTLY
sounds just like Democrat voters.
Always go to a mechanic and spend $5000 for a re-charge. Also remember, if your tires are low on air, there is almost always a leak. Bring them to Firestone and request new tires immediately.
I’m shocked a mechanic would encourage you to give him hundreds of dollars instead of dropping $25 and DIY. If you break the AC on your hooptie who cares it was broken before you started.
It’s expensive AF to fix your AC system after you put break it by doing the AC recharge wrong
@@abimbolaaku2709 bruh. I repaired my entire ac system including ac compressor, lines, and condenser with rockauto for less than 400 bucks.
@@abimbolaaku2709 and it’s been 6 years and still kicking strong.
@@TrojanLube69 how did you refill it ? Did you use can or take it somewhere I to am going to order from rockauto
@@TrojanLube69 lol my question is hat do you think is going to break by adding freion if it don't work... Oh well you have a leak lol only argument I heard was bad for invorment
Been adding freon to my cars by can for 40+ years...never had a single problem...surprised to learn I did it all wrong...will continue to do it the wrong way since it works perfectly for me every time.
This guy makes good points. But the part that he isn’t talking about is all the crooked mechanics/technicians that makes you turn to products like AC pro in the first place!
@russcsra
BINGO! It is nearly impossible to find competent and honest mechanics in many areas today...so you might spend thousands and still not have your issue resolved you might make the problem worse or end up with new problems..sabotage is a real problem today in the auto repair business...
@@horseathalt7308 agreed 100% and irritatingly so, I just replaced the timing belt on my wife’s Honda. The last time it was done it went to a shop because I didn’t have the time myself. What did I find? Missing tensioner hardware, a broken lower cover from forced installation, paint pen marks NOT in reference with the factory timing marks, oddly torqued hardware and in general some pretty basic shoddy workmanship.
That’s the 3rd time in my life I’ve used a shop that I didn’t work at and I’m 54. I’ve been burned every time I’ve been to a ‘’tru$ted’’ or ‘’certified’’ mechanic. It also seems like they spend far more time writing up a heavily padded ‘’detailed invoice’’ instead of performing correct service procedures. I feel sorry for people that lack mechanical skills and newbs who are deterred by guys like this.
He could have easily made a tutorial instead but the fear factor, intimidation and in my case, the loose/missing hardware I 🤬 found must generate a lot of return business.
The Johnson rod joke (in realty) isn’t nearly as funny as folks think. Keep on wrenchin’!!! 👍
@@monkfry Thank God for honest mechanics like Scotty Kilmer. I'm getting ready to do the timing belt in my own Honda that I've had for 15 years and still runs flawless. I'm no mechanic but I do my own maintenance (STUFF THAT'S CLASSIFIED AS DIY) I'm confident I can get this job done as I've watched plenty of Scotty's and even Chris Fix videos. After reading your testimony now I'm sure I'll get it done. Yep keep on wrenchin' 😆
@@josephbell2160 Break it and learn if you have to. It’s cheaper and you’re better off being self sufficient anyway. Lots of good info floating around these days. We used to use books hah, and just wait till you get your OEM parts. Maybe they fit maybe not. . Live and learn.
My 21 year old Chevy S10 (78k miles) I had the AC leak out I guess. The shop filled it and only charged me $200 but it only lasted the season I will have to do it again. They thought they had fixed it with some part but that didn't happen, it leaked out again.
So I might try these cans just because I have a couple on hand but has anyone done it on an S10? This might be too old for anyone to see.
I repaired my 2000 Lincoln which had a clogged orifice. Watched a few educational videos which showed me how to evacuate and vacuum the system, recharge, and what values to look out for on high and low side using a rented Autozone manifold and gauge set. Worked incredibly well and the cost was the orifice and refrigerant, saving me at least $1000. This video was not one of those educational videos.
I think it’s safe to say most DYI individuals do some research to see if they can handle certain projects. I doubt anyone just “jump up” and do stuff without any knowledge about the risk involved. Don’t be scared fellow DIY individuals, do your research and make an educated decision on whether or not its risky/doable 🤷🏾♂️
If we’re gonna use a 20 year old car as an example, I would rather add refrigerant to the system rather than forking whatever the “mechanic” wants to charge.
But you can't it's illegal
@@bzd16b What do you mean?
They want to change be $1000 to fix a very slow 6 months leak. It will take 40 to 50 years of canisters to justify that expenditure. Unless the whole system just fails.
AC refrigerant is a controlled substance in the state of Washington. But I believe it's legal in all other states at this time.
I love 1A Auto videos, they’re always extremely helpful, but this video I disagree with wholeheartedly. I recharged the A/C on my 2003 Honda Accord EX 2.4L myself, and it went from not working at all to working as good as new! It’s been running for over a year with zero issues. 🥶
Maybe you just got lucky. I don't think they are trying to give bad advice.
But why did it need a recharge you probably had a leak and now you recharged it too just leak out again
I agree with you on this one, my wife and daughter both own 2007 Suzuki SX4's and their A/C's both stopped blowing cold air in the summer of 2018 due to freezing evaporator coils. When the refrigerant pressure gets low, it gets too cold and the evaporator coil freezes stopping good airflow. I bought some 134A refrigerant with a leak sealer and serviced them both 4 years ago, this summer they are both still blowing very nicely. Only thing he said that was worth listening to is that you probably have a leak. Thus, you should use a refrigerant with leak sealer. He has a conflict of interest since he is in the business of servicing air conditioners. What he is actually saying is pay someone like me, we'll be glad to take your money,
This same UA-cam channel made an instructional video 8 years ago on how to recharge an Air Conditioning system with these same fans yourself 👀
@@TheUnknownHarbingers Actually if your ac system has very slow leak (takes many years for leakage to occur) then it's very worth it. My car had ac which slowly leaked over years. It still has some pressure, meaning there is no air or moisture in the system. All I need to do is top off and I am good for several more years.
I just had this video telling us to not charge the system ourselves and one from 1A Auto from 7 years ago showing us how to charge the AC system pop up on my feed at the same time.
If you're going to tell people to not do it then maybe you should take off the old video that shows how to charge the system.
Just sayin'.
Isn't that something that fox News does! I did not post this comment. Oh yes I did comment on the post
I’ve used those cans several times . The ones with the gauge on it . Matter fact just did my tundra last year and it still blows ice cold .
You do have many good videos but I disagree about this video. An average person with some Mechacanal skill can easily do this without causing any damage. Typically going to a mechanic shop to have the A/C charged or fixed ends up with the shop telling you that you need all new A/C components and a price of over $2,000 to fix. It sucks that so many shops are scum and just want to rip people off.
Excellent point. Just recently, I had AC put back into my 05 Mazda 3 since I did not want to do another summer in Las Vegas with no AC. Even with my buying a compressor, condenser, and a couple lines, the bill for labor was still $980!!
Meh if you know a little about cars find a good work at home mechanic. They have zero overhead and tend to be honest I'm a skilled electrician and did about a hour of research new what my problem with my ac was. I changed jobs did not have my tools with me. So I got a dude with a nice garage he was honest and his price was good. Granted don't forget they need to make a living to but he did a great job for price. Always look for mechanics not running out of a dealer or a brand shop they are overpriced and know what you need.
Then go to a shop that’s known to do good work dose not hurt to do some research.
Ah ah ah, i beg to differ. I can fack anything up in the most insane ways. I rented a manifold guage set after 24oz of refrigerant was wasted, in which the air got colder and then went back to hot, ans then muffed up to where refrigerant sprayed out of the yellow hose i tried to utilize because "hey, there must be some reason for the 3rd hose"....
This is after 8 months spending every waking moment under the hood.
I know computers, i know psychology.... I DO NOT belong under a hood.
Does a shop ever diagnose a non-working AC system as anything but a "bad compressor"?
I put two cans on my 2001 Honda back in 2018 now 2021 still working fine, I never espect this going to be good for 20 more years
I never had an issue adding freon to my own vehicle, We had a 1999 expedition we bought with 150k on it, we had to add freon every season so the leak was small, we decided to add a can of stop leak and never had to touch it again, the a/c system outlasted two engines, I live in Ga so we used the a/c a lot, we scraped the truck with 394K on it
I’m not a mechanic, just have little knowledge with cars, so I’m just adding my 2 cents from my recent experiences. When your AC starts to blow warm air, it’s 99% that it’s caused by a refrigerant leak somewhere in the AC system. So the first challenge is to find where the leak is coming from. In my case I used refrigerant with UV dye and a UV flashlight. Once the leak/s is found, it needs to be fixed. Once the leak is fixed, the AC system/lines must be vacuumed to remove the moisture. During the vacuum process, you can check if the leak/s was actually fixed or not. Once you’ve determined the leak was fixed, and the vacuum confirms there’s no more leak in the system, then you can proceed to recharge/add new refrigerant. So topping off the refrigerant is easy. Finding where the leak is, fixing the leak, and pulling a vacuum in the system is the difficult part.
20 years... this may be true for old cars using old refrigerant. The new expensive eco refrigerant R1234yf(mandatory on all vehicles from 2021) requires top up every 3-5 year, the system will just drop in pressure and stop working. In this case using such a DYI can is a good idea, there is no benefit going to the shop, other maybe of removing the moisture from the system.
Even if the shop mechanics do all the operations correctly and use the correct and clean materials they will still rip you off. If you still have pressure in the system means you have a good chance a refill is all you need. And one more, if you don't have oil leaks(that are visible with the eye along the AC system) you should not use a can with oil, simple use clean refrigerant.
My local repair guy recharged my system for 150 bucks and it lasted the while summer and most of the winter. Spring now and no ac, I have a leak but my car is 10 years old. I can spare the 10 bucks a year to refill vs the God knows how much repairs would cost!
r134a has a GWP of 1400. Meaning for every gram of refrigerant leaked into the atmosphere, is equivalent to 1400g of co2 released into the atmosphere.
Most vehicles require on average 500g of refrigerant.
Do the math, get the leak fixed properly.
@@Jeff-gb5rt about what a single human gives off naturally in three days, though in his scenario gives off in about 9 months. The world is going to be fine.
killing the enviroment slowly because you're too lazy and cheap to just get it fixed, what a flex
I took my motor home to the Volvo truck dealer in Oakland to have my a/c serviced. $1800 and a new compressor later, the system still leaks. So much for paying a shop. So with all due respect for your experience and skills, sir, no. I’m not going to keep handing my money to you.
If auto mechanic shops wouldn't be so greedy and charge an arm and a leg to recharge the A/C. Everyone would not hesitate to take their cars to a shop. First thing they do is charge money for an "Inspection", then if you are lucky they will be honest and say.. it's just an O Ring and well charge you $10 to replace it. Plus the cost of freon.
👆🏻this right here is what I was thinking.
Well they don’t work for free the diagnostic takes time away from other work then whatever is broken needs to be ordered and installed and yes refrigerant is not free either shops pay money too stock up on all the different kinds out there. Like you guys expect to not have to pay anything
@@ryans413 R-134a is the only kind used in cars after 1990 there isn't anything else to stock up on if you tell those older drivers too bad.
its the same stuff used in your refrigerator or AC at home. its the only stuff companies will use on refrigeration systems these days.
there isn't hundreds of different kinds to stock up on only ONE.
I love the, "hey man I need my ac rechagred"
"alright well we will have to preform a $100 diagnostic check before we do any work and then another $100 if the ac is the issue, just to spend 10 minutes holding a tool over the hood of your car".
@@ryans413 Auto-shops are historically known to NEVER be shady and screw people over. Inelastic demand.
Funny how every time a "professional" tells me I shouldn't do the work myself, it's always a pile of bull so I'll pay them to do it instead. Even funnier how I go out and learn it and get it done myself and there's no issues.
Actually if you put too much Freon in your system. It will blow it out the compressor relief valve. It did this on my 2004 Trailblazer. My a/c it still working fine 8 years later. It wasn’t leaking I had to replace the harmonic balancer.
2:25 I’ve never used a vacuum pump in my life. Moisture has not hurt my system in 8 years.
My ac went out. A local mechanic wanted $800 plus. That was parts and labor. I wanted a break down estimate. I ended up buying the parts myself (compressor, valves, evaporator, o rings, condenser, etc) and the same mechanic wanted $600. I found another mechanic with my parts only wanted $300. Some mechanics over charge and that makes people want to do things themselves. Ac work is a specific type work and should be fairly compensated but it can get ridiculous
Been using these do-it -your selfers for a few years. HAve used these about ten times. Always work like a charm and no problems so far.
I added AC pro to my Chevy Tahoe. It's a 2001. AC is working great now! I couldn't be happier. The professionals just want your money.
Is it still working?
That’s what any decent mechanic will tell you to just add refrigerant this video made me mad lol
I asked for a quote. $ 7O for the can and $ 70 more for labor . So I decided to do it myself. It's easy and I'm proud of myself and I saved $ 140.
Exactly how how else can mechanic make money if everybody start fixing things themselves 💰 🤑
@Night Rider Hi I hope your a/c is fixed by now, but if not you can just let some of the refrigerant out. Just use the hose that it came with, then cover one end with a big towel and release the pressure a little bit at a time. Also don't forget to use eye protection. I will warn you that it is bad for the environment and if you can swing it, you should take it to a mechanic. But if your having a tough time paying a mechanic that is the quick fix, I know because I recently did the same thing.
2 different mechanics wanted $700 - $800 just for labor to replace my ac compressor, plus the parts. I bought it from Rockauto, borrowed a vac pump and did it myself in about 2 hours. Only spent $150 in parts. If you can do it, do it. Only take it to a mechanic if you feel you can't do it by yourself.
I agree that you should absolutely use caution when servicing the hvac in a vehicle, but as they say, it ain't rocket surgery. And a proper vacuum pump and cheap manifold gauge set can be purchased for less than $200 and can be used to service ones own hvac not only in vehicles but refrigerators that use R134A and other devices like window ac units. I'm not saying to buy one of those kits and dive head first in, but the knowledge is available to properly diagnose and fix these systems fairly simply, saving tons of money in the long run.
I must admit I was doubtful about adding my own freon, but now I will add it even if its blows my truck up.
Most of the mechanics today are crooks, they robed me for 1,000 and didn't do anything to the car, but I finally found a good mechanic when I need something done, but I usually do it myself
All these scummy mechanics need to start getting sued im tired of it tbh.
Have a minivan from 2006 I checked the freon with gauge it was reading empty 0 psi add 3 cans of r134 myself and now it read full 50psi and blows cold air. Mechanic told me i need a new compressor and all kinds of parts quoted me $7000 which is more than what vans is worth with 185000 miles on it.
I've done 2 cars with these. Both only required a tiny amount of gas to bring the cold air back and both been absolutely fine ever since.
You're talking about putting 4 cans in. I'm talking about putting 4 squirts in.
Sadly when it's 39c in England every aircon pro is fully booked and only open during my work hours. Can of gas delivered to my door and 10 minutes topping up is ideal.
These videos are meant for them to make more business and scare you into bringing in your cars to the shops so they can charge you like crazy. I understand they are trying to be safe and all that other stuff. But hey, some things we do wil save us money and money rules all. I watch videos all the time that have worked and saved me money. But the very 1st video I seen with this guy I got the vibe quick, they don't like us diy mechanics and we all know why 🤑
The issue is, different system need different type of oil. Canned refrigerant already has oil in there, which will jelly up when mixed with non-compatible. This will cause damage to the compressor. Yeah, other things can diy, but not a/c. It is like putting wrong type of Cvt oil. It is good in short run, but catastrophic failure when it is in stress state.
But in this case his advice would cost him business.
These guys are not advertising a business. They work for 1A Auto so unless they are telling you to buy their parts they are trying to be honest. It is not like they are telling you to go to a certain repair shop because they are getting kickbacks for the business.
@@TheUnknownHarbingers exactly, can’t tell you how many ppl destroy their AC systems trying to do it themselves. Seems easy enough until it’s not lol
@@cikgukereta What do you mean "non compatible?"
That's all well and good when you live in the warmer states but in the rust belt we're not going to fork over $500 - $1,000 or more to fix the AC on a 15-20 year old car that is going to be in a scrap yard in a few years anyway.
We'll throw in a can or two for a couple summers for $10-$20 and call it good.
*Salt Belt
For sure. I live in Ohio and just bought a new car and it’s bad enough to make me want to move down south
I have a 96 Camry and right now am burning up 🥵 with no AC am going to do exactly what u just said lol 😂
Lol right, most people think 70 degrees is hot.
No one is charging $500, it's $1k minimum
If you add the a12 or similar little by little in the low pressure port while the engine is running and the AC is on while monitoring the temperature after each addition, you can quite easily spot when you have the right amount added to your system. If you go to high it is very easy to let out some of the gas and find the sweet spot again. It is of no particular problem that it is flammable as it is such a low volume.
It's actually not that hard if you already know that your system is slowly leaking (and it's not worth fixing). Now if your system is not leaking and you add more you can break things. Make sure you have isolated it down to the leak being the only problem. Meaning you checked that fans are working, the vents are opened up and direction not stuck to blowing air to the windshield or feet, that your compressor is actually working, and your cabin filters are not clogged up.
To add refrigerant ignore the cheap gauge and instead do it in 2 second bursts. Do 1 or 2 burst and drive around the block and feel the vents. If it's still warm do another burst. I've only ever need to add like 10 seconds of refrigerant to my car. If around 8 seconds you don't feel any change in temp from the vents I would stop pumping more refrigerant because at the point it might not be the problem.
I did mine already it's super easy
Here’s my tip this one gets overlooked really easy if your AC just quits to the point you have no clutch engagement at all but all the electrical checks out all fuses and relays are good and you see no leaks at any hoses or connections. A clogged Orifice Tube could be your problem this would restrict refrigerant flow either causing a high pressure or low pressure in the system the pressure switch would then tell the computer not to ground the clutch relay and fan relays so no AC action would happen. For this you need to see a mechanic so they could pull a vacuum and replace the orifice tube. It’s the AC systems filter and overtime like any filter it can get clogged. Really simple one to over look.
As an automotive design engineer I can honestly say that these systems can be built to be bulletproof but corporate profits and stock price matters more than quality. If you get lucky and get one that doesn't after years, you are a lucky SOB and should play the lottery immediately. I just had to watch this video because of the description.
Don’t fill it yourself for $40…. Take it to a mechanic that’s going to fill it up the exact same way for $400 and tell you they used an evac machine…
My 16 year old Civic has a slow leak. Has for like 5 years now. I put in a like 15 dollar can at the beginning of summer and my AC blows cold at 40F when it's 75F outside. At the start of the next summer (before I refill) at 75F outside car blows around 62F. Gauge shows it's on the very low end of the "green" bar. Shows 2/3rds up "green" bar after filled. Lasts a year for 15 bucks, and has done that for 5 years now. If I ever do need to fix more, I will. But for now I'm saving money every year.
I always recharge my own AC and sometimes I use the super cold additive and my 99 Avalon I can get the temperature inside down to about 45 degrees which is just wonderful when it's 105 outside
Took mine in to get recharged I also wanted a can of stop leak added. The ac worked but not well. After taking it in the ac didnt work at all. They said the compressor was screwed. I took it to another guy and found the first place had taken out the refriigerant. I had it filled and had a stop leak added. It now works fine. I have since heard that the first garage had a rep of wanting to change out compressors (at 1200 a pop). Be wary of where you get it done
I agree with this but I've never had an issue with using diy r134a cans.
Master tech of 20 years here. Just read the instructions on how to use the cans with a gauge. Look up how many ounces your system takes and just don't go over. Now granted, if you have a system leak it won't solve the problem, but you can absolutely do this yourself and not have any issues whatsoever. What a load of garbage.
Respectfully disagree on this one , recharged A/C in my 2008 Mitsubishi Lancer after it stopped cooling on the passenger then on the driver side, used about 5-6 oz of A/C Pro brand R-134a , bumped PSI from 34 to 45 and it’s now cooling on both sides like it’s a new A/C . Guessing that a small crack developed in O-ring or rubber hoses , so the product that I’ve used suppose to expand rubber and seal those cracks, will see. The problem was fixed in 15 min vs going to a mechanic and probably being told that the A/C needs to be replaced for $2000. Even if I have to recharge again after some time , so what, the car is 15 years old, not worth spending $$$ to find and fix the leak . As for the environment, I’m concerned about the impact , but the refrigerant was already slowly leaning to begin with and hopefully the new additives would stop that .
Stan Meyer car that ran on water- watch youtube video of same. And we would have the Dr Stan Lee Hummingbird generator and the PICC system for cars.
Well, you're wrong...
Haha!! Love the comments! I have a 2008 jeep patriot that I recently put freon in because it was blowing warm. Was so easy, worked like a charm and cost me $35.!! So yeah, no. You CAN do it yourself. Do be careful not to fill it too full, tho.
Help! I have a loose cable on my truck's battery. Anyone know where I can find a "pro" to tighten it? 🤣🤣
😂😂well said fuck these scummy lying mechanics, it sucks how they ruin business for the honest ones.
Rite😂🤣😂🤣
Yeah, I know a guy who carries only 3 things that fixes anything.
Duck tape, a pair of pliers and
Super glue. Lol!
On one hand, this is all 100% sound advice that anyone thinking about servicing needs to be aware of. So, thank you..
And on the other hand, be wary of shortcut service shops who will lazy-recharge the system just like you're about to do yourself in the Napa parking lot.
Yes, been there, done that. To get home without dying of heat exhaustion.
I did it myself and I'm running cool! I have to disagree with this title. Knowledge is king!
I've worked in the industry for well over 35 years...the people who tried to sell us an AC machine, were crooks...they said you need to remove the freyon then replace...I said, wtf are you talking about, there's absolutely no freon in the lines, that's why the AC stops working due to non interaction with freon...
Everytime someone comes for AC recharge, I check the system and lines, pressurize then let out the remaining pressure and fill with can of AC, usually last 5 to 6 years
All the 816 people that liked this video are mechanics 😂 plus “Chris fix” says it’s okay soooo it’s okay !
Lol I love Chris fix
Sounds like is ok
Scotty kilmer says just don't put the sealer in it
Chris fix
@@randysimmons9838 Scotty is full of crap. I just called him out on his latest video where he promotes the refrigerant can. 2 years ago though, he made a video similar to this one where he discourages the exact same can (same brand and everything). Bottom line is we are smart enough to understand what is happening in a sealed system. If it's no longer sealed, than.... that's bad! And feeding more refrigerant a-la willie neely is only going to create more problems or, at the very least just be a temporary solution for a problem that is only going to get worse.
I did it myself 9 years ago, and it's still working great. Don't listen to this guy. If there is a leak, check the Schrader valves first. Then vacuum, and refill.
If you know what you’re doing, repair your own car. Why pay $50 per pound of the same refrigerant, PLUS labor, when you can pull a vacuum, and use a scale for a fraction of the cost. Chris Fix It has a great video on how to properly recharge your ac with these cans of Freon.
I'm gonna do mine Tomorrow for $ 9.99. A Mechanic wanted 300.00 to do rear brake pads, I did it for $45.00 with top of the line brake pads.
Making it more complicated than it is 😂
Now, here's the biggest problem with automotive air conditioning systems. The problem is with the trained, certified, professional air conditioning repair technicians and shops. Absolute horror stories are EVERYWHERE concerning the insane pricing, rip off pricing and shop doing work that doesn't need to be done. You have at least a 95 percent chance of paying thousands of dollars for unnecessary work and parts replacement. Shops will refuse to service your A/C system if it has the most minor leak, which could be recharged and last for several years and they will quote government regulations about your little leak being vented to the atmosphere. Most shops will refuse to use a "stop-leak" additive to seal very minor leaks. Why can I purchase a 15K window air conditioner for under $500, which will cool a 20 ft. X 20 ft. X 9 ft. room and a vehicle A/C unit is driven by the vehicle engine, so no separate motor is required to drive the compressor. , yet a national shop in my area quoted $2,800 to repair a minor leakage from my auto A/C system and offered a 30 day warranty? I refused the recommended service from the shop and bought an A/C recharge kit for $86.00 (R-134a refrigerant, connection hose and gauge) and my vehicle blew ice cold for two summers. When my vehicle again began to blow above 55 deg. F two years later, I just had to purchase the refrigerant can only for $59 to get the temperature at the vents back down to 38 deg. F. $145.00 for four years of summer season air conditioning is a reasonable cost.
The scumbag shops and technicians have made the average consumer scared to death to knock on their doors.
Thanks, mate, but I'mma side with the comments and give it a go myself. I've a 96 Camaro with a leaky back hatch, peeling paint, cracked leather seats, and a wicked cassette player.
So if I drive my Chevy to the levvy and the AC is dry, I guess this'll be the day that I die.
+PurpleBox89 Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
This guy presents himself as smart experience one. I would like to ask him: How many measurements did he take? How many experiments did he do? To know that he is not talking nonsense?
He presents his opinions here as verified facts and that is manipulative...
i wont be able to dispose the used can? right, i suppose that's because i need a technician to open my garbage can.
So how does the oil thing work and what does it do? How does it get distributed through the system and what are its target areas, and how is it made sure to get there?
That is an awesome question! Never quite understood the oil. Don't drink it! - this guy is right about that, beyond that it's a mystery. I dont see where it will be a disaster to have a little too much.
@@jamesmack3266 ummm. Dam if do and dam if you don't. Does the compressor lose oil when freon leaks. Does a car AC decifer which is freon or oil even if they both flow through the same system. Hmmmm?
I been doing it for so many years and never had a problem yet
Its true that you can ruin your system if you screw up. I have done this once and blew my compressor on a Corolla that would be really expensive to fix due yo labor alone. But every other A/C job i have done was a success, whether it was a recharge, repairing leaks, replacing lines, or completely gutting and upgrading fhe system on an old corvette. Know the risks and make your choice, that's all there is to it
Notorious slow leakers like older Volvos need a can a season, no leak ever found after the previous owner forked over a couple bills every season for 15 years. Nah, I’ll pay 4.99 for a can.
I bought my can for $39.99 😔
I trust trained professionals around here as far as I can throw them. You know, trained professionals, the guys who want to install new air filters for $150 a pop, and want to flush all liquids every 20k.
My AC wasn’t working. I called a mechanic shop was told they’ll charge me $150 just to check + whatever they would charge me to fix it. Did some research online, tested the lines myself & i saved more than $500.
all I heard is that it may last me a season, and boom thats all I needed to hear. Saved me over 300 bucks man, thanks...and guess what? next season all I need to spend is another 30 bucks on 2 cans. Best advice ever
He just made an easy job sounds harder than it actually is.
07 jeep liberty. 3.7. Replaced the ac compressor. Clutch turns on and off as it should. Checked the pressure sensor on the passenger side against the firewall. It is working as it should. Checked the pressure sensor in line above the compressor. It is working as it should. Checked the freon. It is full (over full). Still blowing hot air. Need the next option to check. I'm lost at this point. There is nothing left to replace.
I agree, bringing to a professional is always good advice. However, a better video for you to do is how to find an actual professional. At this point, I have ZERO faith in mechanics anywhere, from dealerships that are supposed to hire the best, to specialty garages, for so many reasons. The quality control in the industry is really an issue for many of us, even so-called reputable locations, so I hope that service facilities are listening.
do you have a video on how to diy this yourself? like which tools and procedures to use to diagnose and test?
I used a can once and it worked GREAT
Thanks for this video, I appreciate some of the tips, they are great. There is pros and cons on this video. Professional service certainly carefree. The cost is much much more. My area is charging $285.00 If we can learn how to do it ourself, it is cost effective in the long one. I do have a mechanic I can trust. Here is why? I ask them to replace the brake lining and they said it is not due yet. I left. They could have sell me the parts and charged me the labor. As for the A/CI did it myself and following instructions, my car A/C has gone from 60F to 49F. Since it is a 2016 car I do not expect it to be leak free even with professional service. There is not much I can do to fixe the leak and is very expensive to overall the A/C system. I will replace the car a year or so.
Why was this a recommended video on your video from 7 years ago showing how to recharge your AC?
The irony
A vacuum pump and a set of guages are around $150 freon for the average vehicle is around $30 my mechanic shop hired a new service manager that charged me $250 twice to recharge after a motor swap. Only to verify that the mechanic Only pulled a vacuum on the system. So i already paid $500 for the shop to do nothing but tell me it'd cost $1200 more to get it running. Needless to say I learned how to do it myself in 30 minutes. My ac works wonderful now and I tell everyone I can about the shop I was a loyal customer to for over 20 years
My vehicle is 20 years old and the A/C works fine (like what you talk about at the beginning of the video). Does it mean there is no need to get the A/C system serviced by professional? Some people say we have to re-gas the system every 1-2 years to keep things clean in order not to damage the compressor. Would 20 years old original refrigerant and oil cause problems?
No....But the Canned Crap May Not Have The Same Oil...And They Wont Mix...It Will Jelly Up
@@sgt.mikebaran7105 pag oil is pag oil unless it has some type of sealer … which I wouldn’t recommend but the regular staff is good
The guy in the video claims it's working fine.... meanwhile it's only putting out 60 degrees out the dash which really isn't called cooling, usually a system should put out about 44/43 degrees.
While the points are valid what this video neglects to take into account is the following scenario: someone trying to limp along a leaking system that will require a full overhaul when repaired anyway
"If you french fry when your supposed to pizza, you're gonna have a bad time. Trust me"
-Super Cool Ski Instructor Guy"
Things I've done on my daily driver '02 Focus Zetec:
Brakes (new discs, pads, hard lines, rubber hoses, fluid)
Exhaust (new mufflers, catconv, seals, bolts)
Suspension (new wheel bearings, bushings, bolts, springs, shocks, paint job)
Cooling (new thermostat housing, new fluid)
Clutch master cylinder (new)
Serp belt with tensioner (new)
At home, with my own tools.
Excuses moi, por favor!
I put a vacuum on mine for like an hour, then fill it up with the cans through a high/low pressure gauge I got from Harbor Freight. I leak out the air in the hose before I open the valve to the system to ensure no air goes in. Will the method I use be sufficient?
I've used the same method you described. Its worked on 3 vehicles. I'm careful not to over fill with freon.
500 microns is the recommendation
But where does the old refrigerant go if you do this? Isn't it illegal to put refrigerant into the air?
I did the job to a 2013 Honda CRV for 50 bux with the leak detector. It worked perfectly fine and blew colder than ever before. First time doing it with little mechanical skills, just followed a well made video. Any average person can do it with the proper guidance. Although I only did it to a system that had no refrigerant.
I went to a garage to top up my ac, was about £100. I asked why it was so much and they said it’s because of all the extra stuff they do, as mentioned in the video as well as checking for leaks after the top up, so I just got it done. A week later it stopped working again… I would’ve gone back but the place was 120 miles away when I was on holiday so yeah, I’m going to have a crack at it myself. 🤷♂️
How did it go?
They may've done a poor job on purpose because that mask is a big red flag that your a lunatic liberal. Not many mechanics are Liberals just so ya know. Good luck with the DIY
@@mohamedyussuf7001 Haven’t done it yet. It’s not been that hot this summer.
@@Dobolt hoping you ended up doing this haha
I found and fixed my leak its been YEARS since its been empty, Is adding oil through a charge the same as adding it directly on to the compressor? If so it safe to assume most of the oil got out?
Great video great information. So if you have to recharge your system it’s best to put a vacuum on it
+Samuel Anderson Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
I have a Bissell, will that work? 😏😏🤣
@@sanguinesydttv
No,use a Kirby, you FOOL!
A common misdiagnosed problem with the AC not working is vehicle blend doors not actuating properly. However, for me my AC quit in the middle of my hour long drive home from work. Upon investigation I could see the AC clutch wasn't spinning and discovered a blown fuse. Replaced the fuse and it immediately popped again. The bearings in the compressor seized (not the clutch). Replaced the compressor, and added recharged the system myself. My vehicle is 21yrs old and has over 300k miles on it. Definitely not taking it to the shop for anything.
You are telling us that if there's not leaking in my ac system, the cold air is going to last for the entire life of the vehicle ?
I just got a gauge for manifold and a scale. I was good to go!
Another thing…Recharging you AC at home will cause the world to end also!! Goodness, who thought this was a good video to post.
Learn to do it yourself and save thousands even work on your own at home. Get an evacuation pump that will do your house and your car. You can use both of them on the same unit just different gauges
+Michael Portwood Thanks for the feedback!
Thanks, good info. My 1996 Ford Ranger minipickup with 4 liter V6 is used pretty rarely and for short times. Been great, AC never serviced before as it always worked fine. But about 6 months ago, I noticed the AC wasn't as cold, and shortly after, it wasn't cold at all. Turned AC on and the compressor isn't turning (clutch not engaged). I know there's a safety if there's no refrigerant to keep it from turning on. Side note, it sat for about 5 years unused and not started about 3 years ago. Questions:
1. Two wires to compressor clutch, are they power and ground so I can test for ground and apply 12v to it (engine off) and to test if it'll engage?
2. I picked up a set of AC gauges, on normal system, with engine off for hours, should there be pressure in both low and high sides?
I'd like to do preliminary investigation before paying someone to diagnose. I'm guessing a hose has failed, vs. the compressor (since it did blow not so cold, then none, vs. compressor failing, meaning suddenly no cold at all).
3. Assuming a hose has failed and I replace it (refrigerant already gone so no need to evactuate/recycle), do I need to replace any other parts? (Can't remember the name of the part but it's like a filter including for water, I think, vs. the compressor, condenser and evaporator).
Thanks,
RichE San Diego, CA
The part you can't remember is called a drier. It's filled with desiccant to remove any moisture/water.
If a hose failed, you would need to draw a vacuum on the line of about 30"ha (30 inches of mercury). This is to remove all the air and moisture from the lines before adding the refrigerant and oil. At that vacuum water will boil at room temperature and will be removed from the lines with the air.
1 you can test clutch operation at the relay pull out the relay jump the pins clutch should engage.
2 there’s usually one or two pressure switches when pressure too high or too low it stops the computer from grounding the clutch relay and fan relays from coming on.
3 yes both high and low sides should have pressure you wanna see more pressure on the suction line the low side if the high sides too high the system won’t work properly
not the best advise, I mean sure if you have a 70k vehicle take it to the shop but if you have a 20 year old work truck, and its 102 degrees on monday and payday isnt until friday, throw a can in to keep you cool.
Regarding the warnings about toxicity and the environment, R134a is also the chemical used in the "canned air" dusters for cleaning computers.
Nope
its compressed air
Its toxic. When they got rid of r12 there was a big hub bub because r134 is terrible for you and the environment. EPA didnt care, natch.
1) O'Reilly and AutoZone both loan out the vacuum pump and the dual gauge manifold for free. Pick up one of those.
2) grab a cheap kitchen scale and weigh the can full. Then add refrigerant until the can gets lighter by the right amount.
It's more complicated than just dumping one of those cans in, but not as complicated as you make it seem.
I used to put refrigerant in my 89 and 91 Oldsmobile Cutlass my 2003 Ford Explorer my 92 Geo Metro my 91 Ford Explorer my 06 vibe and I know I'm missing one... I was just about to say no damage done but of course they were already on their last legs and I drove them till they were no more. so I guess technically I don't know if the damage is done
Great video! You showed 60 degrees shouldn't that be much colder? Would it work in a hot climate like Florida?
But we can't assume that all mechanics are honest or competent.