How to Install Kuryakyn Extended Brake Pedal on Harley Davidson
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- Опубліковано 11 жов 2024
- We show you how to install a Kurakyn brand extended brake pedal on a Harley Davidson motorcycle! We really liked the quality of this Kurakyn extended brake pedal and we definitely recommend it for bikers.
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****READ BEFORE INSTALLING****I just installed one of these on my 2015 Road Glide. I'm 6'2" and I don't know how I lived with out this! . Just an FYI for anyone that is looking to install one of these. If you watch this video, he gets to where the arm will not fit without unbolting your engine bar and moving it forward. On the Road Glide or Electra, this can be a real pain because the fairing is anchored to the engine bar and you have to remove both those brackets on each side and blinkers etc. Even if you are doing this on a Street Glide this method is easier than unbolting engine the bar. I found that all you have to do is remove the heat shield on the front header pipe. This is very easy, it is held on by 2 hose clamps. Then, aim the pedal towards the rear of the bike and push it onto the pivot shaft and rotate clockwise. By removing the heat shield you gain about 3/4" of clearance to push the arm on. The pin bracket on the new arm can now rotate behind the front header pipe into the master cylinders push rod. You will also need to remove both floorboard brackets, very easy as well. ALSO, CHECK TO MAKE SURE THE ZERK FITTING IS TIGHT, MINE WAS LOOSE AND NEEDED TO BE TIGHTENED. Hope this helps.
Good. Always more than one way to do many projects. Glad you liked our video. Ride safe & Ride Often!
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A riding friend of mine literally just finished putting on a Kuryakyn Extended Brake Pedal on my 2020 Street Glide this evening. Had we not watched this video prior to beginning the install we wouldn't have been prepared for the same unexpected problem of having to remove the crash bar in order to get the pedal aligned correctly. Everything that was demonstrated and described in the video was exactly how we accomplished the project. Spot on and right on the money! Thanks for the great video!
Awesome!! TY!!
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OK, just installed this on my 2019 Road King Classic. Changing over the brake levers 15 mins, removing the split pin 60 mins :( . Reinstalling the split pin, another 60 mins!! What a nightmare, I guess only Harley could come up with something so simple made so complicated. Your video was excellent and I note watching it a second time, you cut some footage where you removed the pin and also installed it :) My hands way too large for this job (4X gloves gives you an idea) but hey ho this is how I got the new pin back in place. I soldered a piece of old metal coat hanger to the top of the pin and managed to thread that down behind the pedal to get it started after that is was relatively simple. I also removed the heatshield when installing the new pedal thereby not having to remove the front engine bars, just loosed the brake pedal side guard enough to get new pedal in.
One other tip, after removing the floorboard, I had to loosen the front floorboard bracket a fraction, so it would move enough to slide the new pedal in.
What a huge difference when riding, night and day from the stock pedal, well pleased with the result and again, thanks for the video.
Great tips! And yes, we edit to make it look easy.
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@@RyanUrlacher hmmmmm, thanks
I’m installing the Kuryakyn Part#9649 Girder Brake pedal w/ lowers on my 2017 RGU. To say the cotter pin is in a “kinda awkward position” is like saying Whoopee Goldberg is kinda annoying. OMG! I highly recommend replacing it with a properly sized hitch clip. With a mirror, you can pretty much watch it go in, and if removal is necessary, much different issue. Beyond that, the operation of the brake is so dramatically improved, it is hard to describe.
Great idea. Thank you for sharing.
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Thanks for the video. I've done a few of these since I watched your video and I wanted to share a shortcut. When you get to the part of removing the cotter pin, pull the brake pedal and master cylinder out together and then you can pull the cotter pin, change the pedal and reinstall the cotter pin so much easier.
Yep. So many DIYers miss that very simple method.
@@billcarson1966 what does this mean exactly? Pull them out together how the exhaust is in the way?
Wow you removed that pin a lot faster than me! Was a real PITA
@@harleyroadster9502 how did you manage to get that pin out I'm struggling with mine on my v rod. Any help or suggestion would of great help
After watching the video, I went online an purchased mine. I have 16' Ultra limited. I followed the step in the video and worked out perfect. Since I have the lower on mine. All I did is took out the crash bar bolt near the rear brake master cylinder and loosened the other two and I was able to get the new pedal in. Thanks for your hard work Ryan.
Glad to know these will for on an ultra. Figment guide excludes Ultras because of lower fairings. Thanks.
Thank you guys for the step by step. Car backed in to my Harley and jacked up the brake arm. This made the job easy and in about half an hour. You guys rocked it! 🤙🏼
Installed this on a 2017 Tri Glide. Also had to remove the engine crash guards. One other thing I did to help me on the cotter pin, I removed the heat shield. I am very happy with the extended pedal. It is in a position where I can easily apply the rear brake smoothly. The video was a big help even on a Trike.
Awesome!
Great instructional video. Installed my extended brake pedal on my 2014 SGS in 20 minutes after watching your video. I removed the bolts from the master cylinder and pulled unit away from the bike. This makes it easy to remove that darn pin, Thanks guys great video!!
Awesome Tony!! We love hearing stuff like this....thanks
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Just did mine. The comment on here that suggested removing the master cylinder bolts and pulling the whole master cylinder assembly and pedal around the header and out was the best advice. That allowed me to easily mess with the cotter pin. Just a heads up.
As always, perfectly demonstrated. A little harder to get to that cotter pin even with engine guard loosened with lowers in place. Got to it underneath. It was really the only challenging step thanks to your efforts. Always appreciated and that's why I'm one of the 99%
on '13 RKC just did this, removed the motor mount end cap 3 bolts and that releases the whole assy of floorboard mounts, brake reservoir and lever. gives easy access to replace the lever and cotter pin without touching crash bars or heat shield, worked great for me
Could not have done the install as quickly without this video. Well presented; simple to follow. Thank you.
Right on! Glad we could help. We appreciate the positive feedback.
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Thanks fellas. As always, a good video. I found it easier to just reverse the clevis pin. Easier than working around the header and putting the cotter pin was a breeze.
Great tip!
Thanks for the video. Just installed one on my 17 ultra. A few things that I notices was that a new cotter pin comes with the new arm. I also had to take the entire crash bar off to get the damn thing on. And that damn pin was a PITA to get on. By the stroke of luck it went in. But once it went in the reassemble was quick. I had by computer with me and all I did was start and stop at every step. Thanks again and stay safe
Removing the heat shield allowed me to install without messing with crash bars (2019 RGS). My extended arm also came with a cotter pin (inside the wrapping that holds the manual). Great video as always, Ryan - thanks for the content.
I just installed mine, take me like 1hr. Following your video, thank you so much Ryan, great video
You are most welcome. Glad we could help.
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After watching this video it was a simple install. After removing the floorboard and front arm. Removed the 2 bolts holding the brake master on, I pulled the whole unit away from the bike and it made removing the cotter pin simple. I was told by someone on a forum, that you can put the new pedal on without touching the crash bar...sure enough it worked. Pulled master forward, put the pin and cotter back in (with plenty of room to work)...put the pedal on the pivot, rotate it up as you gently slide the master back.
Glad you liked the video and it was helpfu! Thanks for watching.
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Bought it via your link. Installed today. I had to use a breaker bar with the torx to get the engine guard off. What a difference,!! I couldn't get the rubber off the old pedal so getting a new one to push on it.
Rock on and thanks for purchasing through the link! Glad you go it installed.
Just got my first bike a few weeks ago which is a 2001 fatboy, I am 6ft 4 so the original is not very comfortable for me at all, yea im gona do it right and take the basic course ectt, but this was a
serious consern saftey wise so i just just ordered 1 of these, so happy there was something out there that can put the pedal where i wish it was, great vid man, thanks
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Thanks Ryan ! I just ordered one and will be installing this weekend. I have a 2014 SGS and the pedal has been a real nuisance and even get cramps on occasion at the bottom of my calf muscle after a long ride. I can even see where the extended pedal will be able to tweak your rear brake feathering abilities due to the flatter angle. Keep up the great work and ride safe.
You bet, and yes you'll be able to use the rear brake more efficiently.
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Hey Ryan, viewed this video and thought I can do this. Ordered it and got it done in about 45 min. works great and makes braking SAFE! I signed up as a patron as a thanks man!
Rock on. Thanks for signing up as a Exclusive Patron Member of Law Abiding Biker!! --> www.patreon.com/scrappy
On my 2018 Road Glide Special, I did not have to remove the engine guard. All I had to do was remove the exhaust head shield. It’s a close fit, but there is enough room for the brake arm to slide in once the heat shield is removed. Also, there is an o-ring on the inboard side as well. Both inboard and outboard o-rings should be removed. The stock brake arm has recesses for the o-rings, the Kuryakyn arm does not.
Just did mine (16 RGSpecial) - appreciate the video.. gave me a lot of confidence having to move the crash bars forward a bit to make room for sliding the pedal in there.
That's awesome Mark. We're glad we could help.
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Just finished adding one to my Street Glide. My first upgrade to the bike. Thanks for the video. Keep 'em coming.
Rock on!!!! Make sure you're subbed to this channel. Many videos coming
Hi Ryan. Just finished installing mine. Was very easy. After watching your video didn't need the manual at all. Btw mine came with a new cotterpin. Thanks and greetings from the netherlands. Perry.
Nice!!
I loosened the 2 clamps on the exhaust pipe shields and was able to get the pedal arm on without removing engine guard.
On my 2018 Rd Glide I did the same...well I took the cover off and removed the lower crash bar bolt and was able to spring the bar away enough to get the pedal in....a bit of a time saver......
I installed this on my 2015 Street Glide Special and it was way better than stock. Still, being 5'8" with a 30 inch inseam I found it a little difficult to reach the pedal easily. If you aren't Lurch size I'd recommend going with the one for a bike with lowers. I put that one on and it worked out much better. It's still farther forward and lower than stock but not quite as far forward and low as the one for tall riders. It's far enough forward that I can just lift my toe a little to brake rather than having to lift my foot out and around then down with the stock lever. I also don't believe taking off the crash bars would have been necessary with the shorter lever. I still had to remove them to get the old one off.
Maybe I should have done video with my bike. This one was cake walk. You'd have had to bleep salty language. Plus lowers get in way. Fortunately factory header looks easier. Crash bar doesn't need removing although I should've removed lower and loosened it. I ended up scratching inside a little on black plastic due do my impatience. Directions suck and I probably didn't install properly. I took rag and hammer to tap past my header. It was more involved than I thought and I cursed both Kuryakyn and Harley by time I was done. My reason for change is I put Kuryakyn iso boards on and with factory brake arm I couldn't put foot on floorboard because arm was in way. This seems to have helped.
I watches several videos like this, and it is best to unbolt the master cylinder so you can get behind it. Makes the cotter pin remove easier also. Remove the three/four bolts for the master cylinder and you will be on your way.
Awesome video guys I almost didn't buy the brake lever looking at it I thought for sure I would have to remove the entire exhaust thanks a lot! I truly cant stand the factory brake on my 2019 Street Glide. Be safe out there! I subscribed too! ;-)
CJ, glad we could help and we're happy to have you as a subscriber.
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I removed the whole floorboard assembly down at the frame because it made it a lot easier for me.
Also if you have an aftermarket header it creates a nightmare. I have an S&S head pipe and it was a bugger getting the old one out and the new one in even with removing the master cylinder. Brake arm comes with new cotter key and O-ring.
It sure would. Thank you for sharing. Ride safe & Ride Often!
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Yep, aftermarket headers/exhaust can be a pain when it comes to maintenance and other work.
@@RyanUrlacher Hey Ryan ,do you have a video showing install of Harley heated hand grips on 20 SGS with wires in the bars?
Got this brake pedal yesterday and will get installed soon. Any particular type of grease needed for it?
Thanks for the tutorial! I stumbled in your channel today and I’m glad I did.
Complete NOOB here but is there a particular grease for the grease gun? I see all kinds for high temp, multi purpose etc.
Great vid ! I watched the live vid. Then this. I ordered 1 set for each of my bikes ! Thanks Ryan
Video in edit.
Rock on!! Thanks much.
You are my hero. Everything went as planned except the engine guard bolts. The 45 torx won’t go back in. Any ideas?
Try loosening all the bolts. Get them all started, and then tighten them up.
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Great video as always guy. just wondering how often you have to lube the new break pedal? Stay safe and keep the videos coming
I would have been nice if you give us the torque specs for the bolts. Yes, I am a torque guy. All nuts and bolts should be set to factory specs. Unless you want your bike to fall apart going down the road. A little blue lock-tite is good too.
Great video,,, but wanting to know? You didn't say if you removed the inner o ring after old arm was removed and you put new arm on with or without that o ring
Great video as always. Wondering is anyone installed the ones made by E-ZBRAKE on their bike? I think they look a lot better than this version of Kuryakyn and not only do they re-position the Brake Pedal Forward, but it makes it Lower as well. Problem is I don't know anyone who's actually got them on their bike to ask how they like them.
We don't have any info on that. Sorry, Kevin
Does the O ring on the rear of the stock brake pedal go back on or is it removed like the front when installing the new pedal
This is a simple install with stock or stock type exhaust. I had a helluva time with mine due to it being aftermarket exhaust. Still, good stuff.
I agree. I cursed my fair share because of aftermarket header. Removal would've made it easier.
Question: did you use Locktite on any of the bolts? Specifically the one that holds the new pedal in?
Just completed, thank you so much for this video!
So you didn't have to put the O ring on that when you put back on?
Ryan the videos are great ! Im also a tall rider and these tips help a bunch. How tall is Cuz ?And what has he done to his road glide to help his position ? Thanks for your help.
He is 6'7" He put 13 inch bars on, an extended brake petal, and new floor board pans that move the boards forward an inch.
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Perfect ! Thanks for the info.
My brake pedal is a little too short in size, the new one is there spacers i could use the part at the bottom that go on the shaft?
can you do a video on putting a extended brake pedal on a Harley Trike ???
Hi Ryan,
Do you need to adjust the rear brake like switch at all after installing this? I installed this on my bike and I feel like it takes a little extra pressure before my brake light comes on.
Did you notice any difference in the pressure you had to put on the rear brake pedal?. I installed this pedal and it seems like i have to smash down on pedal harder i noticed before install i just tapped the rear brake pedal and the cruise control would shut off now it seems i need to push harder on the brake pedal to kick it off
Thank you for the video, made it very simple to follow along and do myself
Exactly our mission.....to help bikers like you Kevin. Thanks for commenting and watching
Good how to video .
I have the 2010 Ultra limited with my lower fairings on. My boot toe area hits the Fairing adjustment knob which makes it difficult to quickly position my foot for applying the rear brake. I see that if the brake pedal was lower by about one inch it would give me adequate clearance and a good margin of travel for applying the brake. Is the a replacement kit for lowering the position of the brake pedal?
How do you do this on a 20117 Triglide with the water cooling system in lower fairings?
Can I ask why not reinstall the 'O' ring? I note when I disconnected my old brake pedal on a Heritage 2015, there was a little oil/grease inside the chamber although the new Kuryakyn pedal does come with a new bolt and a large washer?
I have the opposite issue. I need to know how to modify a bike to fit a 5'2" tall woman with little feet. The brake pedal on my wife's 2013 Sportster 883 Superlow is to far from the foot peg and she is riding with her foot on the peg mount.
You know what I'm doing next weekend. Brake pedal
Rock on!
Why would U not present B4/after pix 4 comparison 2 determine what was gained by mod? SMH as my search continues...
How does this job go with a set of water cooled lowers?
Do i put the crush washer on then the normal flat washer followed by the lock nut to hold the pedal on? Thats how i installed mine yesterday and it wiggles pretty good not sure if i need to take a bushing out of my old one and use it or something.
umm no blue lock tight?
Can that lever be used on a FLh 1976. Have a bad angle pedal as well.
l just purchased one for my fatboy but l think it will possibly put it too far forward. l am only 5'1. Covering the brake as it is is just dangerous. Is their another option. Just asking before l go pulling everything apart. This is my husbands bike who sadly passed recently due his service. Vietnam. Made me promise to ride his bike. But l don't like the brake setup
You can go back to stock. The extended pedal is definitely for taller riders.
Ride safe & Ride Often!
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What type Grease do you use
Never Re-use cotter pins! One time use only, they get fatigued and fail. Don't be cheap....you'll pay for it later!
+Tim McKenzie Thanks for the input Tim. Ride safe & Ride Often!
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By the way, your videos are awesome! Helped me make my decision to go for a road glide special, thankx!
+Tim McKenzie Thanks for watching the free video and glad you liked it Tim! Ride Safe!
+Tim McKenzie Awesome to here!!
My arm came with new one.
How much harder would it be with an Ultra with the lower fairing?
A bit more work potentially. You may have to remove the fairing to get the job done.
Ride safe & Ride Often!
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See my comments n how to do the install without pulling crashbar.
Why not reverse the pin so the cotter will be facing outboard. Much easier
Always different way to skin a cat. Thanks for watching.
I would install an "E-Z brake" lever before I did the extended.
+Rick Kane are you saying that with an E-Z brake lever you have to lift more than with the Kuryakyn?
I was told for my situation it wouldn't help because of Iso boards. Harley really screwed up with new bike and brake arm. My 07 I had same Iso boards and could put my foot under brake and new one practically laid on floorboard.
My buddy is taking his bike to the shop to have it installed. I feel bad for him
Dang. That’s too bad
What a shame. Part of the satisfaction of owning a bike is modding it yourself.
My only comment is, I never reuse cotter pins.
The cotter pin location is a BITCH. I'm going to remove it and replace with a hitch clip. Also, don't forget to grease the shaft! I got mine completely installed and the brake pedal is binding. I'm going to have to take everything apart again! Ugh!
Only Kuryakyn? What about your Idaho neighbors, SoftBrake?
Why not take the brake cylinder loose ?
Can the Origonal Rear Pedal be lowered, instead of changed ??
+Ric Harley no