Issac. I managed a tube fabrication shop for over twenty years. I set up and brazed copper to copper, copper to stainless, copper to brass for many high tech and some military applications. One suggestion for your "grapes" is to move your torch tip to the top side when soldering flat as shown in the video. Solder will usually run to the heat, in this case up, and pull the solder against gravity. This will reduce the tendency of excess solder running down with gravity and toward your heat source. Of course if you stand the fixture up, this will help as well, but it is not as convenient. I also agree with you about the aesthetic value of the look, and professionalism of the work. Excellent video as always. Thank you for the effort it takes to post your content. B
I am electrical contractor of thirty-five yours. I appreciate your tradesman ship and how you talk about your own trade. I am currently working on my daughter's house and doing a full remodel of a 1962 track home. Your instructional videos have given me the confidence to tackle some projects and up my game as a trades person. My Uncle was the professional plumber and would always wear brown cotton gloves when soldering. Just after removing the solder from the joint he would reach out and with a quick flick of a finger wipe the excess solder off the joint and clean the Pipe. He was extremely efficient and Never had to reach for a rag to wipe the pipe as a solder cools quickly and sometimes you don't have that much time before it solidifies. The gloves will also keep you from getting burned as often happens when you work your torch. I am looking forward to your next video.
Nice job don't worry about the haters. It takes a lot of effort to make and edit these videos. They're free to watch and they help people, so don't let the snipers bug you. One tip I was given about this task is that most new to soldering tend to over-apply it. The old hand who taught told me this: If you're soldering a half-inch joint, bend an "L" in the solder with the leg of the "L" a half inch long. That's how much solder goes in the joint. Bend a 3/4 inch L if it's a 3/4 inch joint it, etc. When it's done you just need to see the smallest bit of silver all around the joint, and it should be fine. He used one of those little inspection mirrors on every joint to make sure the solder went right around. His solders you could barely see just a tiny continuous ring of solder all around the joint because he filled the joint and not much more. Were mine soler joints as nice as his? No, but they looked pretty good and didn't leak. It's a practised skill and if you did it every day they'd look perfect but the joints I see here are great. If they pressure test fine you've done your job and no one will see solder perfection behind the wall! doing joints on a table in front of you like this is great when you can do it. I find it challenging and stressful to solder inside a joist bay or some other confined space where your torch is surrounded by dry wood.
Very good video on soldering. I, too, loved the generational teaching part. I am 65 and my father taught me how to solder copper pipes when I was 14. I have always done my own home plumbing and now flip houses as a retirement venture. Sure glad my father took the time to teach me this art--long before UA-cam and the Internet existed! Now I am learning all about Copper to PEX from you. Installing a Delta tub/shower fixture tomorrow and your video was a great refresher for me. Thanks!
Many, many years ago when I was in HS, one of the classes that I found intriguing was .. .chemistry. I wasn't always that good a student but I was able to learn some very useful things. One of those lessons taught me that the TIP of the flame emitted by a Bunson burner or a propane torch is THE hottest part of the flame. This fact served me well when I entered the plumbing profession afterwards. I never forgot that lesson. There is simply no need to completely engulf a pipe or fitting with the entire thrust of the flame when in reality, you've already exceeded the hottest part . Not only will this make better solder joints but it's safer to apply. Using a wildly directed flame has accidentally created fires. . some deadly. Some 45 years later, I'm still using this HS chemistry lesson when I solder pipe.
Doing my first bathroom remodel on my own home and stumbled across this. Wasn't what I was looking for but I truly appreciate your positivity and stance on hurtful comments and whatnot. Constructive criticism is necessary, but there are a lot of people who don't realize how much they can hurt people with negative comments. Had the video playing in the background and it was a breath of fresh air to start my day. Keep it up brother!
Great Old-School video. I am from the old generation: autogeen welding, soldering, hammering distributors on an anvil etc. I notice nowadays that the new generation only learns to work with PEX and haven't hardly any knowledge of the old techniques. It's all about working speedily where durability has become too expensive. This vid contributes and should be looked at just by our next younger generations. Therefore it's a pleasure to watch this craftsmanship. Greets from Holland and thanks for this video. Marcel Knippers
Oh man. I wish I’d seen this about 2 weeks earlier. I installed that very valve into my project and sweat the pex connectors directly into the hot and cold sides and ran pex the whole way. This would have been much more clean if I’d used your approach. For that matter, that valve takes a bunch of heat to get the solder the run. I will know better for the next one thanks to you. Much appreciated!
My dad was a master plumber, and he always wiped his joints when he was done soldering. He also let the solder draw to the heat which allowed less solder balls to form. great vid thanks for showing us your technique.
I've been telling everyone interested in tile about your videos! As a plumber I feel obligated to learn more about your end and you've been great at conveying valuable information in a palatable way. When selecting the rough valve always choose one with stops as its not only required by the UPC, but makes servicing the valve less inconvenient for the owner seeing as you don't have to shut the whole building down for service. That inconvenience is magnified when the repair part is not readily available. After cutting your length of copper be sure to remove the burr to reduce the effect of cavitation (Grady on the practical engineering channel explains this clearly). I prefer to clean my pipe (always type L) until the writing, color mark, or any incidental scratch marks are removed. I've found no need to remove excess flux from the pipe so long as heat is applied correctly. That one may be more difficult for you given your torch tip. I use a B tank with turbo torch and varying sized tips which allow me to size the tip according to pipe diameter, and reduce the risk of burning framing or melting wires. As for heating, both the UPC and Copper Development Association Suggest to start heating the tube first then the fitting, with the flame positioned at the back of the socket and pointed towards the front so as to avoid burning out the flux by directing the flame into the socket. Work the torch in a circular motion with the solder always following the flame. I'm both over complicating this for small pipes like 1/2" and skipping steps for larger diameter pipes and brass fittings, but I've learned for experience how important it is to run the solder all the way around the joint. I find when i follow these steps I can solder any vertical joint without a drip. I also find it helpful when fabricating anything to crimp the fittings to maintain alignment during soldering by making the end of the pipe slightly oval. anyway, thanks for sharing your knowledge, and keep up the stellar work! Instagram: k_l_fogle
Thank you for the added Knowledge of Copper pipe. I love the art of using the Torch as to the Crimping New technique. Reason I'm doing copper as a DIY, not as my profession. Working with Copper Soldering is very SOOTHING to me, like Fishing. WOW , it's been 23 year ago since I have fished. Thanks for the TEACHING & the input given from others. WOW, every one continue to help one another, I like it.
After I cut the pipe, I use a step drill to ream the burr flush with the inside wall of the pipe. That burr can cause turbulence as the water rushes over it and this can lead to wearing away the pipe from the inside out over time. The pipe cutter also has a reamer blade tucked into the back of the throat of the tool. Nice video
Another great video. I really appreciate your demeanor and I agree with you on being teachable and also patient with other generations. The fact that you can take criticism gives you high marks in my book. I feel the same way as long as the comments are made constructively.
It make sense big bra im watching you put this together and im doing a bathroom job at 36 years of age first time on my own so keep up the good work and teaching others.
I'm with you on trying to achieve a clean result. Not just for looks, at minimum cleaning the excess flux off the pipe makes it nicer to handle. Love your general attitude in all your videos BTW.
David Hollman best way to Keep A Drip From happening after You Clean you Fitting And flux The fitting and the pipe , Just wipe Your Joint Off And removed Excess Flux.. Then solder.
First step in clean results is proper function. Shouldn't flux the fitting, just the pipe, so that the flux is not pushed to the inside right at the get-go. Yet he brushed the pipe end with an almost dry brush, should have dipped it in flux before that, instead of applying some into the fitting after. This looks like the result of learning by doing, without understanding it at all - that's when unfounded fears are born and people overdo things and make them worse, because they aren't sure what does what, other than solder melts, fills gap.
I'm just a 3rd year apprentice plumber. The master I learn from taught me to use a little Flux on the joint when the fitting is still hot to remove those drips. I'm trying to learn to get better. Some days better than others lol
Great video... Sitting here thinking why I never thought of using the street 90s, and I just ran into this exact problem, Wondering after the fact why I didn't make the stems shorter.... Ugh great idea, great lesson and thanks for the edu. Also, the vlaves with the stops are likely required by plumbing code in most areas. They allow for pressure tests and serviceability down the road. And they're usually the same price. Thanks again!
I’m a UA UNION PLUMBER proud of what I do everything you did here I think it’s perfect me personally my self when it starts graving the solder i remove the heat entirely but like to pas the solder all around to be on the safe side yes I know it will go where the heats at but on bigger pipe 2” and up i have to keep the flame all around following with the solder around🤙🏼
Tinning flux seems to work so much easier (maybe it’s just me?) I only flux the male fitting - that way there’s no path created inside (beyond the pipe) pulling solder where water flow will be affected. Makes sense to me anyway. Hope it helps. You’re a good man.
Issac, love your videos. I'm going to re-do my bathroom soon and am researching a lot via your videos. Liking the Tile Redi pans. Also, yes, I am huge believer in mentoring others and passing it along.
If you want to get rid of the little drip without wiping it then you have to aim you flame a little higher because you a little to low and the solder will go to where the heat is at. So you see that you want to aim your flame a little higher so it sucks in and seals properly for a long time. Great video man , I really appreciate all your teachings.
Solder from the bottom... heating from the bottom - heat rises - and the solder will follow. Eliminating your "drips;" setting up your station where you can work from both sides of the tubing. Great video, thanks!!!
@@ibealion1 Nope... believe it or not ounce for ounce tinning flux typically runs about a buck cheaper. Some won't use it "because" tinning flux doesn't easily flush from the system. While hot water can flush tinning flux on the hot side, not so much on the cold water side. Depending on who you talk to non soluble flux can technically leak into your the water supply for years. Am I concerned? No. Oatly No. 95 Tinning flux is 100% lead-free and is NSF-listed for potable water applications. That said, the primary reason people don't use tinning flux is probably due to building codes and where they live. Some codes "require" the flux used be water soluble. Personally I avoid using water soluble flux where I can because it has a greater tendency to cause corrosion issues on the outside of the pipes if not meticulously cleaned of excess flux.
Liked your video. Liked your attitude that though the workmanship was not visible when completed, it should still be and look professional. I am more than twice as old as you are so that makes you a young man. Many, many years ago I worked in a steam plant. I saw the trades people wipe away with a dry wiper the excess hot solder. The fact you did not like, and I agree with you, the drop of solder that had formed at the bottom of the solder joint caused me to reply.
Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so. -Douglas Adams
Dad was a Master Plumber ~45 years in the trade. ALWAYS clean and flux both sides of any fitup, and cleanyour joints with a wet cloth wrap wipe after your done.
I’m a rough in plumber by trade and usually I run my solder down half of each joint to reduce failed joints later on in test faze, and having to solder in awkward areas I may be wrong but I think the amount your using is a little on the light side and as soon as you solder you can take your flux brush to get rid of drips
My experience with copper is linesets for AC systems and it was important not to use too much because it restricts the flow. It really doesn't take much at all to completely fill the connection. Also it doesn't take much before it starts filling the inside and shrinking the ID of the pipe.
Got2Learn has some good soldering videos. As a rule of thumb, he recommends bending the end of the solder 1/2" for 1/2" pipe (3/4" for 3/4" and so on) and once the joint has taken all solder past the bend, then you've got enough in there.
I thought the same thing, it is best to run the solder around the joint 3/4th of the way to insure it fills in the joint completely. Who cares if it has a drop on the bottom, it will never leak.
To keep from getting “drips” I recommend using a smaller flame and the solder doesn’t follow “gravity” it’s drawn to the heat. A smaller flame will draw the solder to the hottest point, your flame surrounded the joint thus causing drips.
Wipe your drip away with a little ball of fiberglass insulation while hot. Insulation doesn’t burn like a rag. Practice make perfect. Keep up the good work.
The flux will completely melt away with the torch i’m thinking maybe you misunderstood because I was going to tell you what I do is with a wet rag wipe the joint immediately after soldering in a circular motion it looks beautiful and professional. You do have to inspect the solder joint just to make sure you have complete coverage afterwards. I had sloppy horrible looking joints in till I seen someone use this method. Awesome tile work thanks for the videos
great video, explained it clearly and no shortcuts. step by step. video quality was very clear also. Only thing I wish you should have shown was how to ignite that torch. which im sure is not too hard, but would have made this complete for me. thanks, learned a lot.
As for learning from others. I am a retired electronics tech who worked for a large government agency which had many techs on staff. And as usual there were some excellent techs and some not so good ones. I always knew I would learns things from the top techs but what surprised me was that once in a while I would learn something from one of the techs that I thought was not so good. So my takeaway was that I could always learn things from others, even the guys that I thought were no so sharp.
Tight and neat soldering... Neatest on you tube. I've seen your other videos...correct me if I'm wrong...you dispell the myth that you have to apply the solder all the way around the tube... capillary action pulls it around... looks like you only apply to the top of the tube briefly...saves time... I tried this on a resolder job after a joint blew in my basement... cleaned up the joint and applied like you do...I thought for sure it didn't take...but it's going strong 2 years later...
Solder with a work glove on one hand, as soon as you set the solder wipe of that connection with your gloved hand. It looks great! My buddy showed me that. You won't have any drip looking things
Thank you for the video. As an HVAC tech my soft solder skills are not as good as with 15% silver solder. I believe I tend to get fitting to hot and use to much solder. This makes me want to practice on some scrap copper before doing an install. Good job.
Always solder the larger mass of brass/copper joint first before moving to the next copper/copper joint that is close by which avoids liquifying the solder in that joint. For the lead free brass/copper joint I try to preheat copper pipe first then move to the brass heating one side then moving torch to the other side then apply the solder to the pre-heated side allowing the torch heat to draw the solder to the opposite side. It doesn't take much solder but you might have been a little stingy with the solder on a couple of joints. As long as you can see a nice smooth filet of solder around the joint your good. A typical rule of thumb is a piece of solder that is same as size of copper. (e.g. 1/2" of solder for 1/2" copper)Personally I had rather see a solder drip at the bottom than not. I try to wipe it off when I can with a barely moist cotton rag if I'm quick enough. Just be gentle when wiping off a liquid solder joint so as not to cause joint to move. At the same time this cleans excess acidic flux which causes green corrosion if left on the joint.
Here in NH you need to have a licensed plumber to do any plumbing. To set toilets and hook up sinks. Having said that if the project is not getting a permit because you are just doing a bathroom update you can do it on your own under your own risk. Many times plumbers don’t even take my call when I say that I just need a new valve. Or they will said $400 for and hour of work! So as a bathroom remodeler you need to know how to do this. Great video!
Besides being a tile installer I'm a licensed plumber, since we always run into plumbing issues while doing tile, it's really handy for me. The few things I do different than you while soldering is I start with the brass to copper at the valve body, since brass takes more heat. By the time you're done with that, your copper to copper joint will be hot enough to take the solder almost without extra heat. To get rid of the ugly solder globes, I use a paper towel and kind of gently "flick" them off before the solder hardens, just make sure you don't spin your fitting
Isaac, I'm in Sacramento where maybe you are, but love your attitude and willingness to teach others who don't know as much. I'm a DIY who installed what I think is this same Delta universal valve in 2008 and it worked ok, not great on GPM, for quite a while, but either something has clogged the copper pipes somewhere (don't think so) or Sac county lowered their water pressure to the area (not sure), and the shower head for the past few years trickles water and the tub faucet 'emits' water into the tub, but must be pretty low gpm. I have tried removing the shower head with had the 1.8 gpm reducer in it; removed the tub faucet to see if flow changed; pulled out the cartridge and replaced it; bored out the old cartige to increase flow; and none of it seems to make a difference. Yet when I remove the cartridge and open the water main, water shoots across the tub and hits the back wall like a fire hose. What am I missing? I soldered 1/2" fittings to the valve body in 2008 and thinking the unit is 1/2"...the water main and 3/4" connectivity is very close by the water heater and on the back side of the shower. Should I be tying into that 3/4" line, re-plumbing to a new 3/4" valve body to fix my super-low flow shower (sink right next it is same Delta model and works fine)? Hope you can help and thanks, Jim
You should always use a Copper Tubing Reamer. A flat edge inside your connection will become a weak point because of the water flow. Use a reamer and you’ve now beveled the inside of the pipe to allow water flow with no restriction solder joints last longer.
@@Maccongroup It's mainly to get rid of the burr inside the pipe edge, which results from the pipe cutting process. It will also bevel the inside somewhat depending how far you go, but it's not necessary to bevel as long as you get rid of the burr.
I'm a oldTimer and I don't mean to be critical but there are some steps that will help you and other guys down the road. 1. Use propane not MAPP gas because it doesn't get the material to hot the idea is to sweat your joint so it pulls the solder into the joint. 2. Use less heat turn the torch down more.so it pulls the solder Into the fittings.Wait a minute then Wash. 3. Why the pipes are still hot wash them off with a little Dawn dish detergent and water so they don't turn green and cause corrosion. With a wet cloth. That's where you see down the road the pipes are green and starting to rot because they weren't washed off. 4. It is okay to submerge the pipes in water afterwards it's called tempering the solder it's something that's required in a lot of big commercial jobs 5. Using steel wool to clean your pipes afterwards because it'll make them shine and look professional Enjoy your videos and I'm learning from your channel thank you
Hello Isaac, Where necessary I just use a dry cloth to give it a quick wipe just after you do the solder. Gets rid of the snot. But I really don't worry about what you show as it confirms the joint is full if it is going to be hidden. Take care. Doug
Very informational and I think that you have enough solder. The bubble is good for confidence as I’m new to doing remodeling , but I’ve had identical joints to yours and. Not one leak under days of pressure test.
Looks good, a little light on the flux. I personally like NO #5 flux. There's no need to use extra flux at the end for cleaning. Just let it cool off enough to handle and clean off any flux with a clean rag, then polish it up with a steel wool. Any leftover flux on the pipe or fittings with cause the them to decay. Far as the drips go, they happen. Not gonna get it perfect everytime.
Hey man. Just wanted to give you a Bro Tip on your solder joints. I'm not a licensed plumber, but my solder joints come out perfect this way: i do everything the same way as you did in this vid, up until the application of solder. the only thing i would really change is that I would heat the copper up to the point that the flame doesn't need to be touching it at all to melt the solder, then remove the flame entirely and THEN apply the solder. this helps ensure you aren't cooking the solder as it fills in the gap it is intended for (sorry, i don't know the technical terms). I've tried to solder while the flame was still touching, but quickly realized that it wasn't filling the side of the joint that the flame was touching because the solder wants to move away from the flame as it melts, so if I just took a few extra seconds to heat up the entirety of the copper joint then removed the flame, I got a much more even result. also, i don't remove extra flux. i find that the extra flux, provided that it is applied fairly evenly, helps disperse the solder around the perimeter of the joint instead of causing a drip to form. Like i said, I am NOT a plumber and this COULD be the wrong way to do things, so if anybody more experienced than myself wants to respond to confirm or deny this method, please do. Thanks for reading, love the channel. Keep em coming!
I work away from “things” depending on what working on as heats up as go away instead of towards. Now this also depends on if you’re working on a finished “room” or if doing rough in work, as well. Was taught long ago how to “READ” the job & how it’s gonna flow to make the soldering go as quickly & efficiently for you; as each job is different. Also, was taught to use some flux to wipe off joint & somewhat of a “barely moist/damp” rag to wipe up any of the solder/flux & the joints; as you want to leave everything looking “nice & pretty” for the client. Granted, most of the times owner won’t see this, but other ppl will see this & if you have “pride” in your work & yourself....why not take the little extra step & a couple of “seconds” to make it look good; as PEOPLE will notice & take note as to who does what & who does this on a jobsite......someone is always watching & taking note; & if not, knowing that I did my best regardless of if I side a wall etc..., I’m gonna be proud & happy that I did a great job. Just some thoughts. Also have used Copper ProPress fittings to use on some installs with the Milwaukee (or Ridgid) ProPress tools. Pretty different than soldering the connections, gotta say, & do like the “ease” at which everything goes together. Thx Issac for the vids & also found out from this vid that you DO NOT look 42, seriously, I thought you were 29-31😊 15:50 think what ppl mean is that using “wet/very wet” rags will cool the copper pipe too quick & could cause some shrinkage & “crack” the solder joint. Cheers✌🏼
Just wanted to make sure that others don't misunderstand "taught to use some flux to wipe off joint", then wipe with moist rag. I assume you are trying to dissolve dried flux. Technically you should never leave excess flux on the outside of the joint as the acidic flux will cause corrosion leaving a greenish/white layer of corrosion in a short time. Definitely wipe down with a clean wet rag. I do a lot of work for the same customers over my 37 yrs and have been embarrassed to see the ugly corrosion in exposed areas(basements, crawlspaces) where I didn't clean off the flux
Your in Sacramento. Go to pace or cal steam. Try the water base flux. It’s more easy to clean out with water verse tin flux. It’s a world of difference. Been doing this for way to long lol. But I’ll admit now I wouldn’t use anything else. But some like the older stuff.
I prefer the NoKorode hot weather flux. It stays in jelly form even when it’s 110 degrees outside. And it cleans up nicely. I’ve used Oatey when I couldn’t get NoKorode and put it in the trash as soon as I was able.
Good job! Enjoyed the pitch for constructive comments, and the older teaching younger talk. However, you “done good learnin’ ” this older guy, thanks! Wished you showed this being pressure tested, seems like there was a void on the first valve body to street el sweat. Looked like the pipe melted the solder before the valve body heated up enough. Also wondered if you used copper pipe instead of wood to support the down tubes to purposely sink away some heat from the valve body, or if I’m ober-thinking it as usual. I’ll practice your techniques and those great tips from @Kyle Fogle. Thanks!
To get the booger solder off the bottom, do a quick brush with flux or use your finger- if you still have nerve endings, you will need gloves.... Also, you should explain that if you have solid copper, you can have more solid pipe to strap in the shower wall. Pex is not rigid as copper is so it's less solid. Note that the brass pex adapters often overheat. Anytime you solder with brass, you need to heat the copper pipe going into it first all around to expand the pipe into the cup, and it also ensures that you aren't going to overheat the brass fitting. Also with brass, since it doesn't contain lead anymore, you should use water soluble flux.
Ever had a customer change tile thickness on you after you allotted the the correct spacing for the original choice? Tiles' done, you come back to trim off, and you blow a gasket.
Hey Isaac It’s called EVERFLUX White plastic jar blue writing If for some odd reason of pace or calsteam don’t have it in Sacramento let me know I’ll send ya one. I’m in Sonoma. Normally when you finish a house you run the water to clean pipes out etc. so a few years ago my wife’s sister did a test for me ( won’t say her job) but she test water etc. the everflux cleans out faster and leaves nothing behind. A 10 min flush with other flux still had 900 ppm. EVERFLUX had .001. Also since it water based it’s less impact on rubber o rings and all that. You’d think being water based it wouldn’t work as good. Put on pipe you’ll be shocked how fast and clean it looks. As to your video. The copper stop on tub side. Very smart most miss that and put a cap and tiny pipe. With it being 4-5 inch it’s a good place for more mounting to blocking. It’s funny I do a lot of new homes and old and rentals. Rentals you always go above and beyond. People destroy stuff. Anyway congrats on the videos you do etc. kinda funny to me a lot watch them from ca to nyc. You need to do a shock video. The cost here. Lol I just got back from Ohio and helped a buddy do a remodel. Before I went I told him he needed x amount of money. It ended up 52% cheaper there. Gotta love CA prices.
I was taught to put direct heat on the actual fitting and then the solder would be drawn to create a nice seal. This video applied head between the joints.
After watching and seeing comments about the solder, I agree. It's almost like you are a stick welder just tacking it up. Also should move the heat around a little.
Regarding the stub out as a cap... I'm always a little tentative about dead ends in my pipes because of legionella risk. Maybe that risk is tiny... I'm not sure. But seems worth avoiding or minimizing dead ends where possible.
I agree with you on longer sections of dead ends but In this case there will still be a small amount of turbulence created by the proximity of the valve even though water is not flowing thru which is enough to keep it clean. No need to make it as long as Isaac did unless you're making a true stub out to cut into and solder for some possible future use for spout or diverter. I never use pre-made stub outs like that except for maybe a vertical air chamber for water hammer but even then I usually don't have one on hand and just use a section of copper and cap it off which is much cheaper
Yea I was guna say the same thing even in my state that kind of stub out is not code anymore because it can potentially leak the code wants us using caps
Great video! the only thing I would reccomend would be to heat joints from the bottom due to the heat rising. Solder from bottom to top. Otherwise very nice
After 20 years of plumbing I have learned the hard way, by myself, through trial and error what works and what causes leaks when it comes to soldering copper pipe and fittings. There’s nothing more depressing than having the re do your work because of a leak. I follow these practices: 1. Measure, mark and cut your pipe, and make sure there is a way for heated and pressurized air to escape. When you apply the torch to the pipe it will create heat, and heat builds pressure. It is impossible to solder a closed system. Pressurized air inside a pipe will always blow the molten solder out. You will ALWAYS get a pinhole leak. 2. ALWAYS ream the inside of the cut pipe. Take off that burr on the inside of the cut pipe, or else it will greatly reduce pressure and flow rate, especially if there’s more than one; it’s a cumulative problem and they will add up until there is very little pressure at the end, like at a shower head. These burrs also create miniature turbulence within the pipe, which will eventually lead to internal gouging and cavitation, which eventually causes leaks. 3. Always: a) clean, and b) scrape BOTH mating surfaces with either wire brush or sand cloth. Usually scrape the inside of the fitting with the wire brush, and sand the outside of the pipe with the sand cloth. 4. Lightly coat BOTH mating surfaces with flux. I have learned that flux LOVES debris, dirt and grit, and construction sites and renovation sites are full of it, so keep the flux jar covered with the lid, except when actually using it. 5. Torch the WORK on both sides of the joint, NOT the joint itself, and not the solder, either. Tap the end of the solder to the joint and allow the solder to be sucked in (by capillary action). Use less than you think you need. And don’t leave any blobs, flick it off with your flux brush. Just looks neater that way. 6. Always wipe the excess flux and dark carbon deposits off your work with a clean, dry rag. Otherwise, the excess flux left behind will always be eating away at the copper pipe and fitting, eventually causing a leak. N.B.; I always keep a small fire extinguisher handy, as well as a dry rag and a wet rag. Following these simple cardinal rules has resulted in about a 98~99% success rate for all my soldered joints.
The best advice I got when soldering, try to heat the "top" and feed from the "bottom". Works really well when you working on horizontal pipes, helps against those " berries". Idea is that the solder flows towards the heat, so in theory you stop feeding when you see the solder hit the top.
When you are soldering bend your solder 1/2” for 1/2 copper and 3/4 for 3/4, then only use the bend per joint, you get the grapes from to much solder, once the joint is overfilled it comes out as a drip.
Issac. I managed a tube fabrication shop for over twenty years. I set up and brazed copper to copper, copper to stainless, copper to brass for many high tech and some military applications. One suggestion for your "grapes" is to move your torch tip to the top side when soldering flat as shown in the video. Solder will usually run to the heat, in this case up, and pull the solder against gravity. This will reduce the tendency of excess solder running down with gravity and toward your heat source. Of course if you stand the fixture up, this will help as well, but it is not as convenient. I also agree with you about the aesthetic value of the look, and professionalism of the work. Excellent video as always. Thank you for the effort it takes to post your content. B
Thank you so much, I'm a widow and its hard to find people to do small jobs anymore. You are helping so many . GOOD MAN.
I’m nothing of a plumber, and I was stumped with the threaded ends on my valve until I saw this video. You saved my day. Thank you!
I am electrical contractor of thirty-five yours. I appreciate your tradesman ship and how you talk about your own trade. I am currently working on my daughter's house and doing a full remodel of a 1962 track home.
Your instructional videos have given me the confidence to tackle some projects and up my game as a trades person.
My Uncle was the professional plumber and would always wear brown cotton gloves when soldering. Just after removing the solder from the joint he would reach out and with a quick flick of a finger wipe the excess solder off the joint and clean the Pipe. He was extremely efficient and Never had to reach for a rag to wipe the pipe as a solder cools quickly and sometimes you don't have that much time before it solidifies. The gloves will also keep you from getting burned as often happens when you work your torch.
I am looking forward to your next video.
Nice job don't worry about the haters. It takes a lot of effort to make and edit these videos. They're free to watch and they help people, so don't let the snipers bug you. One tip I was given about this task is that most new to soldering tend to over-apply it. The old hand who taught told me this: If you're soldering a half-inch joint, bend an "L" in the solder with the leg of the "L" a half inch long. That's how much solder goes in the joint. Bend a 3/4 inch L if it's a 3/4 inch joint it, etc. When it's done you just need to see the smallest bit of silver all around the joint, and it should be fine. He used one of those little inspection mirrors on every joint to make sure the solder went right around. His solders you could barely see just a tiny continuous ring of solder all around the joint because he filled the joint and not much more. Were mine soler joints as nice as his? No, but they looked pretty good and didn't leak. It's a practised skill and if you did it every day they'd look perfect but the joints I see here are great. If they pressure test fine you've done your job and no one will see solder perfection behind the wall! doing joints on a table in front of you like this is great when you can do it. I find it challenging and stressful to solder inside a joist bay or some other confined space where your torch is surrounded by dry wood.
Very good video on soldering. I, too, loved the generational teaching part. I am 65 and my father taught me how to solder copper pipes when I was 14. I have always done my own home plumbing and now flip houses as a retirement venture. Sure glad my father took the time to teach me this art--long before UA-cam and the Internet existed! Now I am learning all about Copper to PEX from you. Installing a Delta tub/shower fixture tomorrow and your video was a great refresher for me. Thanks!
Many, many years ago when I was in HS, one of the classes that I found intriguing was .. .chemistry. I wasn't always that good a student but I was able to learn some very useful things. One of those lessons taught me that the TIP of the flame emitted by a Bunson burner or a propane torch is THE hottest part of the flame. This fact served me well when I entered the plumbing profession afterwards. I never forgot that lesson. There is simply no need to completely engulf a pipe or fitting with the entire thrust of the flame when in reality, you've already exceeded the hottest part . Not only will this make better solder joints but it's safer to apply. Using a wildly directed flame has accidentally created fires. . some deadly. Some 45 years later, I'm still using this HS chemistry lesson when I solder pipe.
Quit being such a good person. Your tile work is always overshadowed by your humility, gratitude and honor. I admire the way you live.
@@TileCoach Mission accomplished!!
Bob could learn a lot from isaac.
God bless your soul Isaac! I need more people like you in this World. Great video with a lot of technical wisdom.
Doing my first bathroom remodel on my own home and stumbled across this. Wasn't what I was looking for but I truly appreciate your positivity and stance on hurtful comments and whatnot. Constructive criticism is necessary, but there are a lot of people who don't realize how much they can hurt people with negative comments. Had the video playing in the background and it was a breath of fresh air to start my day. Keep it up brother!
Great Old-School video. I am from the old generation: autogeen welding, soldering, hammering distributors on an anvil etc. I notice nowadays that the new generation only learns to work with PEX and haven't hardly any knowledge of the old techniques. It's all about working speedily where durability has become too expensive. This vid contributes and should be looked at just by our next younger generations. Therefore it's a pleasure to watch this craftsmanship. Greets from Holland and thanks for this video. Marcel Knippers
Oh man. I wish I’d seen this about 2 weeks earlier. I installed that very valve into my project and sweat the pex connectors directly into the hot and cold sides and ran pex the whole way. This would have been much more clean if I’d used your approach. For that matter, that valve takes a bunch of heat to get the solder the run. I will know better for the next one thanks to you. Much appreciated!
My dad was a master plumber, and he always wiped his joints when he was done soldering. He also let the solder draw to the heat which allowed less solder balls to form. great vid thanks for showing us your technique.
I've been telling everyone interested in tile about your videos! As a plumber I feel obligated to learn more about your end and you've been great at conveying valuable information in a palatable way. When selecting the rough valve always choose one with stops as its not only required by the UPC, but makes servicing the valve less inconvenient for the owner seeing as you don't have to shut the whole building down for service. That inconvenience is magnified when the repair part is not readily available. After cutting your length of copper be sure to remove the burr to reduce the effect of cavitation (Grady on the practical engineering channel explains this clearly). I prefer to clean my pipe (always type L) until the writing, color mark, or any incidental scratch marks are removed. I've found no need to remove excess flux from the pipe so long as heat is applied correctly. That one may be more difficult for you given your torch tip. I use a B tank with turbo torch and varying sized tips which allow me to size the tip according to pipe diameter, and reduce the risk of burning framing or melting wires. As for heating, both the UPC and Copper Development Association Suggest to start heating the tube first then the fitting, with the flame positioned at the back of the socket and pointed towards the front so as to avoid burning out the flux by directing the flame into the socket. Work the torch in a circular motion with the solder always following the flame. I'm both over complicating this for small pipes like 1/2" and skipping steps for larger diameter pipes and brass fittings, but I've learned for experience how important it is to run the solder all the way around the joint. I find when i follow these steps I can solder any vertical joint without a drip. I also find it helpful when fabricating anything to crimp the fittings to maintain alignment during soldering by making the end of the pipe slightly oval. anyway, thanks for sharing your knowledge, and keep up the stellar work! Instagram: k_l_fogle
I've never heard of crimping the pipe oval to keep alignment, interesting
Thank you for the added Knowledge of Copper pipe. I love the art of using the Torch as to the Crimping New technique. Reason I'm doing copper as a DIY, not as my profession. Working with Copper Soldering is very SOOTHING to me, like Fishing. WOW , it's been 23 year ago since I have fished. Thanks for the TEACHING & the input given from others. WOW, every one continue to help one another, I like it.
You are the best teacher brother! Thank you for simplifying it for a newbie like me.
After I cut the pipe, I use a step drill to ream the burr flush with the inside wall of the pipe. That burr can cause turbulence as the water rushes over it and this can lead to wearing away the pipe from the inside out over time. The pipe cutter also has a reamer blade tucked into the back of the throat of the tool. Nice video
Another great video. I really appreciate your demeanor and I agree with you on being teachable and also patient with other generations. The fact that you can take criticism gives you high marks in my book. I feel the same way as long as the comments are made constructively.
It make sense big bra im watching you put this together and im doing a bathroom job at 36 years of age first time on my own so keep up the good work and teaching others.
I'm with you on trying to achieve a clean result. Not just for looks, at minimum cleaning the excess flux off the pipe makes it nicer to handle. Love your general attitude in all your videos BTW.
David Hollman best way to
Keep
A
Drip
From happening after
You
Clean you
Fitting
And flux
The fitting and the pipe ,
Just wipe
Your
Joint
Off
And removed
Excess
Flux..
Then solder.
First step in clean results is proper function. Shouldn't flux the fitting, just the pipe, so that the flux is not pushed to the inside right at the get-go. Yet he brushed the pipe end with an almost dry brush, should have dipped it in flux before that, instead of applying some into the fitting after. This looks like the result of learning by doing, without understanding it at all - that's when unfounded fears are born and people overdo things and make them worse, because they aren't sure what does what, other than solder melts, fills gap.
Sorry about people being mean. This is an instructional video. You keep and take as you need from this video.
Good luck,
Sabino NYC
I'm just a 3rd year apprentice plumber. The master I learn from taught me to use a little Flux on the joint when the fitting is still hot to remove those drips. I'm trying to learn to get better. Some days better than others lol
Great video... Sitting here thinking why I never thought of using the street 90s, and I just ran into this exact problem, Wondering after the fact why I didn't make the stems shorter.... Ugh great idea, great lesson and thanks for the edu. Also, the vlaves with the stops are likely required by plumbing code in most areas. They allow for pressure tests and serviceability down the road. And they're usually the same price.
Thanks again!
I’m a UA UNION PLUMBER proud of what I do everything you did here I think it’s perfect me personally my self when it starts graving the solder i remove the heat entirely but like to pas the solder all around to be on the safe side yes I know it will go where the heats at but on bigger pipe 2” and up i have to keep the flame all around following with the solder around🤙🏼
Thank you I need to redo my shower and I'm learning from your videos thank you sir for sharing your valuable knowledge, you're the best😎
Tinning flux seems to work so much easier (maybe it’s just me?) I only flux the male fitting - that way there’s no path created inside (beyond the pipe) pulling solder where water flow will be affected.
Makes sense to me anyway. Hope it helps.
You’re a good man.
Awesome this just saved me, I was about to do mine with it in the wall, and was scared about catching it on fire.. thanks for the great video
Issac, love your videos. I'm going to re-do my bathroom soon and am researching a lot via your videos. Liking the Tile Redi pans. Also, yes, I am huge believer in mentoring others and passing it along.
If you want to get rid of the little drip without wiping it then you have to aim you flame a little higher because you a little to low and the solder will go to where the heat is at. So you see that you want to aim your flame a little higher so it sucks in and seals properly for a long time. Great video man , I really appreciate all your teachings.
Great video! Thank you for walking me through this it was very helpful.
Solder from the bottom... heating from the bottom - heat rises - and the solder will follow. Eliminating your "drips;" setting up your station where you can work from both sides of the tubing. Great video, thanks!!!
I highly recommend using the green oatley #95 tinning flux. It makes soldering joints so much easier, cleaner and faster.
Tinning flux is a good insurance policy, especially when you're first starting out. Helped me out a lot personally.
I agree. Tinning flux makes even the most rank amateur produce excellent results.
Why would anyone use non-tinning Flux? Cost?
@@ibealion1 Nope... believe it or not ounce for ounce tinning flux typically runs about a buck cheaper. Some won't use it "because" tinning flux doesn't easily flush from the system. While hot water can flush tinning flux on the hot side, not so much on the cold water side. Depending on who you talk to non soluble flux can technically leak into your the water supply for years. Am I concerned? No. Oatly No. 95 Tinning flux is 100% lead-free and is NSF-listed for potable water applications. That said, the primary reason people don't use tinning flux is probably due to building codes and where they live. Some codes "require" the flux used be water soluble. Personally I avoid using water soluble flux where I can because it has a greater tendency to cause corrosion issues on the outside of the pipes if not meticulously cleaned of excess flux.
Thank You! I have learned so much watching your videos. Thanks for taking the time to explain things and making the videos.
Liked your video. Liked your attitude that though the workmanship was not visible when completed, it should still be and look professional. I am more than twice as old as you are so that makes you a young man. Many, many years ago I worked in a steam plant. I saw the trades people wipe away with a dry wiper the excess hot solder. The fact you did not like, and I agree with you, the drop of solder that had formed at the bottom of the solder joint caused me to reply.
It’s great to see you taken on board the tips shared with you for the plumbing side, it really shows in the video with your soldering work 👍🏽
Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so.
-Douglas Adams
You have great communication skills. I enjoy your videos. Thank you.
Very good teacher. Like your style of showing
Very informative video I'm also learning to solder every video from other people helps me to do a better job
Dad was a Master Plumber ~45 years in the trade. ALWAYS clean and flux both sides of any fitup, and cleanyour joints with a wet cloth wrap wipe after your done.
I’m a rough in plumber by trade and usually I run my solder down half of each joint to reduce failed joints later on in test faze, and having to solder in awkward areas I may be wrong but I think the amount your using is a little on the light side and as soon as you solder you can take your flux brush to get rid of drips
What does run my solder down half the joint mean to you
@@SideOfRanch think he means rub the solder half moon on the joint, don't just dab one spot
My experience with copper is linesets for AC systems and it was important not to use too much because it restricts the flow. It really doesn't take much at all to completely fill the connection. Also it doesn't take much before it starts filling the inside and shrinking the ID of the pipe.
Got2Learn has some good soldering videos. As a rule of thumb, he recommends bending the end of the solder 1/2" for 1/2" pipe (3/4" for 3/4" and so on) and once the joint has taken all solder past the bend, then you've got enough in there.
I thought the same thing, it is best to run the solder around the joint 3/4th of the way to insure it fills in the joint completely. Who cares if it has a drop on the bottom, it will never leak.
To keep from getting “drips” I recommend using a smaller flame and the solder doesn’t follow “gravity” it’s drawn to the heat. A smaller flame will draw the solder to the hottest point, your flame surrounded the joint thus causing drips.
Wipe your drip away with a little ball of fiberglass insulation while hot. Insulation doesn’t burn like a rag. Practice make perfect. Keep up the good work.
The flux will completely melt away with the torch i’m thinking maybe you misunderstood because I was going to tell you what I do is with a wet rag wipe the joint immediately after soldering in a circular motion it looks beautiful and professional. You do have to inspect the solder joint just to make sure you have complete coverage afterwards. I had sloppy horrible looking joints in till I seen someone use this method. Awesome tile work thanks for the videos
great video, explained it clearly and no shortcuts. step by step. video quality was very clear also. Only thing I wish you should have shown was how to ignite that torch. which im sure is not too hard, but would have made this complete for me. thanks, learned a lot.
Well done video. I definitely like your tips & techniques for this particular shower valve.
As for learning from others. I am a retired electronics tech who worked for a large government agency which had many techs on staff. And as usual there were some excellent techs and some not so good ones. I always knew I would learns things from the top techs but what surprised me was that once in a while I would learn something from one of the techs that I thought was not so good. So my takeaway was that I could always learn things from others, even the guys that I thought were no so sharp.
This video is tight. Well done!
Tight and neat soldering... Neatest on you tube. I've seen your other videos...correct me if I'm wrong...you dispell the myth that you have to apply the solder all the way around the tube... capillary action pulls it around... looks like you only apply to the top of the tube briefly...saves time... I tried this on a resolder job after a joint blew in my basement... cleaned up the joint and applied like you do...I thought for sure it didn't take...but it's going strong 2 years later...
Solder with a work glove on one hand, as soon as you set the solder wipe of that connection with your gloved hand. It looks great! My buddy showed me that. You won't have any drip looking things
You shouldn’t mess with the connection until the solder solidify, who cares how it look if you have a leak.
Thank you for the video. As an HVAC tech my soft solder skills are not as good as with 15% silver solder. I believe I tend to get fitting to hot and use to much solder. This makes me want to practice on some scrap copper before doing an install. Good job.
Always solder the larger mass of brass/copper joint first before moving to the next copper/copper joint that is close by which avoids liquifying the solder in that joint. For the lead free brass/copper joint I try to preheat copper pipe first then move to the brass heating one side then moving torch to the other side then apply the solder to the pre-heated side allowing the torch heat to draw the solder to the opposite side. It doesn't take much solder but you might have been a little stingy with the solder on a couple of joints. As long as you can see a nice smooth filet of solder around the joint your good. A typical rule of thumb is a piece of solder that is same as size of copper. (e.g. 1/2" of solder for 1/2" copper)Personally I had rather see a solder drip at the bottom than not. I try to wipe it off when I can with a barely moist cotton rag if I'm quick enough. Just be gentle when wiping off a liquid solder joint so as not to cause joint to move. At the same time this cleans excess acidic flux which causes green corrosion if left on the joint.
This is great! If you could make a video on this, it would be amazing. Lots of great little details we non plumbing folks think about
Here in NH you need to have a licensed plumber to do any plumbing. To set toilets and hook up sinks. Having said that if the project is not getting a permit because you are just doing a bathroom update you can do it on your own under your own risk. Many times plumbers don’t even take my call when I say that I just need a new valve. Or they will said $400 for and hour of work! So as a bathroom remodeler you need to know how to do this. Great video!
Insurance companies are also sensitive about licensing. My insurance company won't pay liability claims on work done outside my license.
Um no. You are allowed to work on your own plumbing at home without being a licensed plumber.
Exactly what I was looking for ! New sub here !
Besides being a tile installer I'm a licensed plumber, since we always run into plumbing issues while doing tile, it's really handy for me. The few things I do different than you while soldering is I start with the brass to copper at the valve body, since brass takes more heat. By the time you're done with that, your copper to copper joint will be hot enough to take the solder almost without extra heat. To get rid of the ugly solder globes, I use a paper towel and kind of gently "flick" them off before the solder hardens, just make sure you don't spin your fitting
Isaac, I'm in Sacramento where maybe you are, but love your attitude and willingness to teach others who don't know as much. I'm a DIY who installed what I think is this same Delta universal valve in 2008 and it worked ok, not great on GPM, for quite a while, but either something has clogged the copper pipes somewhere (don't think so) or Sac county lowered their water pressure to the area (not sure), and the shower head for the past few years trickles water and the tub faucet 'emits' water into the tub, but must be pretty low gpm. I have tried removing the shower head with had the 1.8 gpm reducer in it; removed the tub faucet to see if flow changed; pulled out the cartridge and replaced it; bored out the old cartige to increase flow; and none of it seems to make a difference. Yet when I remove the cartridge and open the water main, water shoots across the tub and hits the back wall like a fire hose. What am I missing? I soldered 1/2" fittings to the valve body in 2008 and thinking the unit is 1/2"...the water main and 3/4" connectivity is very close by the water heater and on the back side of the shower. Should I be tying into that 3/4" line, re-plumbing to a new 3/4" valve body to fix my super-low flow shower (sink right next it is same Delta model and works fine)?
Hope you can help and thanks,
Jim
You should always use a Copper Tubing Reamer. A flat edge inside your connection will become a weak point because of the water flow.
Use a reamer and you’ve now beveled the inside of the pipe to allow water flow with no restriction solder joints last longer.
The reamer bevels the inside edge I’m guessing?
@@Maccongroup It's mainly to get rid of the burr inside the pipe edge, which results from the pipe cutting process. It will also bevel the inside somewhat depending how far you go, but it's not necessary to bevel as long as you get rid of the burr.
I'm a oldTimer and I don't mean to be critical but there are some steps that will help you and other guys down the road.
1. Use propane not MAPP gas because it doesn't get the material to hot the idea is to sweat your joint so it pulls the solder into the
joint.
2. Use less heat turn the torch down more.so it pulls the solder
Into the fittings.Wait a minute then
Wash.
3. Why the pipes are still hot wash them off with a little Dawn dish detergent and water so they don't turn green and cause corrosion. With a wet cloth. That's where you see down the road the pipes are green and starting to rot because they weren't washed off.
4. It is okay to submerge the pipes in water afterwards it's called tempering the solder it's something that's required in a lot of big commercial jobs
5. Using steel wool to clean your pipes afterwards because it'll make them shine and look professional
Enjoy your videos and I'm learning from your channel thank you
Great Video.
Nice job thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge!
Hello Isaac, Where necessary I just use a dry cloth to give it a quick wipe just after you do the solder. Gets rid of the snot. But I really don't worry about what you show as it confirms the joint is full if it is going to be hidden. Take care. Doug
Thanks for the video. This is exactly what I needed!👍
I like the way you blocked off the tub spout with that stub out pipe. Those are nice, all one piece.
Very informational and I think that you have enough solder. The bubble is good for confidence as I’m new to doing remodeling , but I’ve had identical joints to yours and. Not one leak under days of pressure test.
Really appreciate your approach to your videos. Honest and true. Great video, keep um coming and we'll keep watching :)
Looks good, a little light on the flux. I personally like NO #5 flux. There's no need to use extra flux at the end for cleaning. Just let it cool off enough to handle and clean off any flux with a clean rag, then polish it up with a steel wool. Any leftover flux on the pipe or fittings with cause the them to decay. Far as the drips go, they happen. Not gonna get it perfect everytime.
Amazing Thanks Bro!! Great therapy and advise too!!
Thank you for share this with us, very helpful!
Hey man. Just wanted to give you a Bro Tip on your solder joints. I'm not a licensed plumber, but my solder joints come out perfect this way: i do everything the same way as you did in this vid, up until the application of solder. the only thing i would really change is that I would heat the copper up to the point that the flame doesn't need to be touching it at all to melt the solder, then remove the flame entirely and THEN apply the solder. this helps ensure you aren't cooking the solder as it fills in the gap it is intended for (sorry, i don't know the technical terms). I've tried to solder while the flame was still touching, but quickly realized that it wasn't filling the side of the joint that the flame was touching because the solder wants to move away from the flame as it melts, so if I just took a few extra seconds to heat up the entirety of the copper joint then removed the flame, I got a much more even result. also, i don't remove extra flux. i find that the extra flux, provided that it is applied fairly evenly, helps disperse the solder around the perimeter of the joint instead of causing a drip to form. Like i said, I am NOT a plumber and this COULD be the wrong way to do things, so if anybody more experienced than myself wants to respond to confirm or deny this method, please do. Thanks for reading, love the channel. Keep em coming!
I work away from “things” depending on what working on as heats up as go away instead of towards. Now this also depends on if you’re working on a finished “room” or if doing rough in work, as well. Was taught long ago how to “READ” the job & how it’s gonna flow to make the soldering go as quickly & efficiently for you; as each job is different. Also, was taught to use some flux to wipe off joint & somewhat of a “barely moist/damp” rag to wipe up any of the solder/flux & the joints; as you want to leave everything looking “nice & pretty” for the client. Granted, most of the times owner won’t see this, but other ppl will see this & if you have “pride” in your work & yourself....why not take the little extra step & a couple of “seconds” to make it look good; as PEOPLE will notice & take note as to who does what & who does this on a jobsite......someone is always watching & taking note; & if not, knowing that I did my best regardless of if I side a wall etc..., I’m gonna be proud & happy that I did a great job. Just some thoughts.
Also have used Copper ProPress fittings to use on some installs with the Milwaukee (or Ridgid) ProPress tools. Pretty different than soldering the connections, gotta say, & do like the “ease” at which everything goes together.
Thx Issac for the vids & also found out from this vid that you DO NOT look 42, seriously, I thought you were 29-31😊
15:50 think what ppl mean is that using “wet/very wet” rags will cool the copper pipe too quick & could cause some shrinkage & “crack” the solder joint.
Cheers✌🏼
Just wanted to make sure that others don't misunderstand "taught to use some flux to wipe off joint", then wipe with moist rag.
I assume you are trying to dissolve dried flux. Technically you should never leave excess flux on the outside of the joint as the acidic flux will cause corrosion leaving a greenish/white layer of corrosion in a short time. Definitely wipe down with a clean wet rag. I do a lot of work for the same customers over my 37 yrs and have been embarrassed to see the ugly corrosion in exposed areas(basements, crawlspaces) where I didn't clean off the flux
Cool thanks for the knowledge
Very clean work!
Great video..thanks so much!!
Your in Sacramento.
Go to pace or cal steam.
Try the water base flux.
It’s more easy to clean out with water verse tin flux.
It’s a world of difference.
Been doing this for way to long lol.
But I’ll admit now I wouldn’t use anything else.
But some like the older stuff.
I prefer the NoKorode hot weather flux. It stays in jelly form even when it’s 110 degrees outside. And it cleans up nicely. I’ve used Oatey when I couldn’t get NoKorode and put it in the trash as soon as I was able.
Good point about the generation gap... we forget we were young and a pain in the ass.
Nice job teach !
Don't forget they keep saying they will pay somebody to do it. Well, if that is the case we are going to run out of people doing this type of work.
I hated the way I was treated as a plumbing apprentice; when I became a journeyman I didn’t treat my apprentice that way….they aren’t my gofers.
I was taught to heat it till the flame turns green then tap the flux... but the way u did it was very good..
Good job! Enjoyed the pitch for constructive comments, and the older teaching younger talk. However, you “done good learnin’ ” this older guy, thanks! Wished you showed this being pressure tested, seems like there was a void on the first valve body to street el sweat. Looked like the pipe melted the solder before the valve body heated up enough. Also wondered if you used copper pipe instead of wood to support the down tubes to purposely sink away some heat from the valve body, or if I’m ober-thinking it as usual. I’ll practice your techniques and those great tips from @Kyle Fogle. Thanks!
Great video braugh!!!!
Nice work Isaac!
Thank you for share your videos!!! 👍👍👍
Thanks for all the help!
To get the booger solder off the bottom, do a quick brush with flux or use your finger- if you still have nerve endings, you will need gloves.... Also, you should explain that if you have solid copper, you can have more solid pipe to strap in the shower wall. Pex is not rigid as copper is so it's less solid. Note that the brass pex adapters often overheat. Anytime you solder with brass, you need to heat the copper pipe going into it first all around to expand the pipe into the cup, and it also ensures that you aren't going to overheat the brass fitting. Also with brass, since it doesn't contain lead anymore, you should use water soluble flux.
Nice work brother 👍🏽
Nice work…
You Made it look easy thanks for the lesson
I've always used the screw on to pex and atleast one leaks every time I sweat it out. I will be using copper for now on
Ever had a customer change tile thickness on you after you allotted the the correct spacing for the original choice? Tiles' done, you come back to trim off, and you blow a gasket.
Hey Isaac
It’s called EVERFLUX
White plastic jar blue writing
If for some odd reason of pace or calsteam don’t have it in Sacramento let me know I’ll send ya one. I’m in Sonoma.
Normally when you finish a house you run the water to clean pipes out etc. so a few years ago my wife’s sister did a test for me ( won’t say her job) but she test water etc.
the everflux cleans out faster and leaves nothing behind.
A 10 min flush with other flux still had 900 ppm. EVERFLUX had .001.
Also since it water based it’s less impact on rubber o rings and all that.
You’d think being water based it wouldn’t work as good. Put on pipe you’ll be shocked how fast and clean it looks.
As to your video. The copper stop on tub side. Very smart most miss that and put a cap and tiny pipe.
With it being 4-5 inch it’s a good place for more mounting to blocking.
It’s funny I do a lot of new homes and old and rentals.
Rentals you always go above and beyond. People destroy stuff.
Anyway congrats on the videos you do etc.
kinda funny to me a lot watch them from ca to nyc.
You need to do a shock video.
The cost here. Lol
I just got back from Ohio and helped a buddy do a remodel. Before I went I told him he needed x amount of money.
It ended up 52% cheaper there.
Gotta love CA prices.
I was taught to put direct heat on the actual fitting and then the solder would be drawn to create a nice seal. This video applied head between the joints.
After watching and seeing comments about the solder, I agree. It's almost like you are a stick welder just tacking it up. Also should move the heat around a little.
Nice job. I used the threaded pex adapters on both of my showers and wish I would have done this.
Some brands state not to take valve apart bc they dont want any heating of the valve which would damage internals.
Regarding the stub out as a cap... I'm always a little tentative about dead ends in my pipes because of legionella risk. Maybe that risk is tiny... I'm not sure. But seems worth avoiding or minimizing dead ends where possible.
I agree with you on longer sections of dead ends but In this case there will still be a small amount of turbulence created by the proximity of the valve even though water is not flowing thru which is enough to keep it clean. No need to make it as long as Isaac did unless you're making a true stub out to cut into and solder for some possible future use for spout or diverter. I never use pre-made stub outs like that except for maybe a vertical air chamber for water hammer but even then I usually don't have one on hand and just use a section of copper and cap it off which is much cheaper
Yea I was guna say the same thing even in my state that kind of stub out is not code anymore because it can potentially leak the code wants us using caps
@@austinpusztai8733 Yup, cap all the way!
Great video! the only thing I would reccomend would be to heat joints from the bottom due to the heat rising. Solder from bottom to top. Otherwise very nice
Bro thank you from Downunder OZ for sharing your skills mate Good on ya.
After 20 years of plumbing I have learned the hard way, by myself, through trial and error what works and what causes leaks when it comes to soldering copper pipe and fittings. There’s nothing more depressing than having the re do your work because of a leak.
I follow these practices:
1. Measure, mark and cut your pipe, and make sure there is a way for heated and pressurized air to escape. When you apply the torch to the pipe it will create heat, and heat builds pressure. It is impossible to solder a closed system. Pressurized air inside a pipe will always blow the molten solder out. You will ALWAYS get a pinhole leak.
2. ALWAYS ream the inside of the cut pipe. Take off that burr on the inside of the cut pipe, or else it will greatly reduce pressure and flow rate, especially if there’s more than one; it’s a cumulative problem and they will add up until there is very little pressure at the end, like at a shower head. These burrs also create miniature turbulence within the pipe, which will eventually lead to internal gouging and cavitation, which eventually causes leaks.
3. Always:
a) clean, and
b) scrape
BOTH mating surfaces with either wire brush or sand cloth. Usually scrape the inside of the fitting with the wire brush, and sand the outside of the pipe with the sand cloth.
4. Lightly coat BOTH mating surfaces with flux. I have learned that flux LOVES debris, dirt and grit, and construction sites and renovation sites are full of it, so keep the flux jar covered with the lid, except when actually using it.
5. Torch the WORK on both sides of the joint, NOT the joint itself, and not the solder, either. Tap the end of the solder to the joint and allow the solder to be sucked in (by capillary action). Use less than you think you need. And don’t leave any blobs, flick it off with your flux brush. Just looks neater that way.
6. Always wipe the excess flux and dark carbon deposits off your work with a clean, dry rag. Otherwise, the excess flux left behind will always be eating away at the copper pipe and fitting, eventually causing a leak.
N.B.; I always keep a small fire extinguisher handy, as well as a dry rag and a wet rag.
Following these simple cardinal rules has resulted in about a 98~99% success rate for all my soldered joints.
Very solid advice!
Nice video. Here in South Carolina everyone is using pex.
Great video my dude
The best advice I got when soldering, try to heat the "top" and feed from the "bottom".
Works really well when you working on horizontal pipes, helps against those " berries".
Idea is that the solder flows towards the heat, so in theory you stop feeding when you see the solder hit the top.
Great job man thanks , the hell with the haters 👍
When you are soldering bend your solder 1/2” for 1/2 copper and 3/4 for 3/4, then only use the bend per joint, you get the grapes from to much solder, once the joint is overfilled it comes out as a drip.