This is perfect for me. My gym has recently switched over to assisted braking devices only so tubular style devices are not allowed. Been lead belaying with an ATC for almost 10 years and didn’t like the feel of feeding rope with a Grigri. If this Neox is close to the smoothness of an ATC, I’m all for it. I don’t mind that it’s heavier.
Sounds like a perfect match for you! The learning curve going from ATC -> NEOX is waaay lower than it is going to a GRIGRI, especially for lead climbing.
@@redanansi that’s amazing. I wonder if the heft of the device contributes to that, since the weight provides more stability. Kinda like how a sinker works with a fishing lure if that makes any sense. Anyway, I have an orange one on order!
The Neox handles quite similarly to the ATC. For many people who prefer the motions of an ATC the Neox is quite natural to pick up and use. We have a video that will Drop in the next week or so specific on the Neox in a gym setting.
It is less likely to twist the rope compared to the GRIGRI when belaying however if you are trying to drag someone up on TR or lowering them and excessively use the the right hand side friction plate you will most likely induce some twists. So far I have yet to have a super twisted rope as a result of the NEOX although I know it will happen at some point as that’s just the nature of these things. Generally speaking the straighter the rope can travel the less twists will be created.
Have a NEOX on order. Looking forward to it. I have a grigri, but I really don't like to override the cam. I prefer the belay technique where you don't override the grigri cam and the NEOX will be perfect for me.
Great to hear you have one on order! It sounds like the NEOX is perfect for you. I have personally been quite pleasantly surprised by how well it handles.
Based on our initial testing, we would not recommend this. In addition to the potential issue of the device not grabbing fast enough, there is also the risk of the breaking mechanism or handle getting blocked, preventing it from engaging at all.
Despite the Revo being decently smooth at pulling rope through it the Neox is even smoother when it comes to lead climbing. For hang-dog style top roping the Revo might be a bit nicer since it’s bit more grabby One of the biggest differences when compared to the Revo is how smooth it disengages after being in the locked position. I always found the Revo quite grabby. With the Neox you can simply just lean forward, unweighting the rope and things start moving again which is quite nice. No real need to manually manipulate the device which makes it quite enjoyable to use.
This is perfect for me. My gym has recently switched over to assisted braking devices only so tubular style devices are not allowed. Been lead belaying with an ATC for almost 10 years and didn’t like the feel of feeding rope with a Grigri. If this Neox is close to the smoothness of an ATC, I’m all for it. I don’t mind that it’s heavier.
Sounds like a perfect match for you!
The learning curve going from ATC -> NEOX is waaay lower than it is going to a GRIGRI, especially for lead climbing.
I'd say it actually feels smoother than an atc!
@@redanansi that’s amazing. I wonder if the heft of the device contributes to that, since the weight provides more stability. Kinda like how a sinker works with a fishing lure if that makes any sense. Anyway, I have an orange one on order!
@redanansi, I totally agree
I have used only grigri but at some point I think I need to learn ATC. Would using NEOX in the gym help me get more comfortable with ATC?
The Neox handles quite similarly to the ATC. For many people who prefer the motions of an ATC the Neox is quite natural to pick up and use.
We have a video that will
Drop in the next week or so specific on the Neox in a gym setting.
Does the Neox twist the rope up like the grigri into a pile of coils?
It is less likely to twist the rope compared to the GRIGRI when belaying however if you are trying to drag someone up on TR or lowering them and excessively use the the right hand side friction plate you will most likely induce some twists.
So far I have yet to have a super twisted rope as a result of the NEOX although I know it will happen at some point as that’s just the nature of these things.
Generally speaking the straighter the rope can travel the less twists will be created.
Have a NEOX on order. Looking forward to it. I have a grigri, but I really don't like to override the cam. I prefer the belay technique where you don't override the grigri cam and the NEOX will be perfect for me.
Great to hear you have one on order! It sounds like the NEOX is perfect for you. I have personally been quite pleasantly surprised by how well it handles.
@@climbonequipment Great job on this video. Explains some questions I had on the device.
Thank you 🙏 We appreciate the support
Do you guys have any thoughts on using it for Lead Rope Solo?
Based on our initial testing, we would not recommend this. In addition to the potential issue of the device not grabbing fast enough, there is also the risk of the breaking mechanism or handle getting blocked, preventing it from engaging at all.
"For those of you who belay with the hands off" - I hope I never have those belayers
Count us with you on that!
How does it compare to the Revo?
Despite the Revo being decently smooth at pulling rope through it the Neox is even smoother when it comes to lead climbing. For hang-dog style top roping the Revo might be a bit nicer since it’s bit more grabby
One of the biggest differences when compared to the Revo is how smooth it disengages after being in the locked position. I always found the Revo quite grabby. With the Neox you can simply just lean forward, unweighting the rope and things start moving again which is quite nice. No real need to manually manipulate the device which makes it quite enjoyable to use.
2:15 hopefully beeing belayed feels the same on every device.
hopefully... 🤞