Petzl Grigri Comparisons
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- Опубліковано 14 жов 2024
- A while back, Petzl gave me three belay devices to make a comparison video about. I've been using the Grigri and Grigri plus for years now, but had to give a little bit of time to the new Neox. After a solid two weeks of testing here's the first of a few videos I'm planning to make on these devices. This is a primer video to talk a bit about the evolution of Grigri's, different designs, different features, and good applications for all three.
Stay tuned for more content coming soon about the Neox!
Ryan, thanks for making this video great detailed information and history of the gri gri.
I really like these comparison video's. I helps out making new gear choices.
Thanks for making these Ryan!
Love the video and look forward to your neox review, but it sounds like you like it. I really enjoyed using it but so far everyone else that I know who has tried it was not a huge fan because they found it harder/ awkward to use the decaming technique from the grigri. I tend to just floss the rope through and try to avoid decaming so it worked great for me.
2 nitpicking points, petzl actually recommends using the small side of the Am'D for the grigri, it is what almost all of their instructions show except some old ones; also there are no ball bearings inside the neox, there is a pawl that catches once it is pushed up. There is a petzle video that shows the mechanism called "Petzl NEOX - Experience the Difference".
I know that hand! It was in the Fall of 1973 Bulova Watch Catalog
The anti pannic on the grigri+ is in my opinion more usefull for rappels. Its also on the petzl I.D. It' not uncommon for people to yank the lever, start to panic, and keeping the lever in the open position. With catastrofic results. The grigri is one of those devices you better let go of when panicking while rapelling (but that is counterintuitive) The + elimnates that proplem.
Since you showed a BD Gridlock, Black Diamond has an addendum to the instructions on that carabiner specifically that if you're using it with a grigri-type device you should put the device on the small side that's normally on the belay loop because there's a failure mode where the grigri gets stuck on the side opposite the gate if it's on the larger side of the carabiner.
My original GriGri is still in great shape. Bought it second hand, barely used. I use it exclusively inside on fat gym ropes. Since it only sees indoor ropes, there is minimal wear on it. No reason to retire it. That said, the neox works even better on beefy gym ropes. I do have a couple issues with operation of the neox but I've only had it for a little bit so it may just be a user (me) technique error.
I found it easier to use if you keep your bit of slack before the device rather than after like a normal grigri. So a bit of slack on brake side and climber side more taut.
Hi Ryan, I know you're a big fan of the giga jul, have you ever tried the Alpine Up? Which would kind of be the mix between a grigri and a autolock tube device, with all the benefits (two ropes, guide mode etc). If not, any reason why not, or just not the time? Would it be something you'd consider trying? I've heard really good thing about it, want to try it myself ^^
I've tried the click up, which is the single rope version of the alpine up. Personally I wouldn't reccomend it, it's very fidgetty and the clicking is annoying to reset after a lead fall.
The gigajul is definitely a better device and has fantastic assisted braking
I still havn't really had a lot of time with the alpine or click up, I would like to try one out and see where it could fit into everything. I just need to fork over the money and play around with it.
The names are so confusing and makes buying the one I want confusing. I want the one that’s supposed to be the 3 (the one you mainly use) but when trying to find it it’s always the grigri 2. Do you have a link you could send me to the correct one? Amazon has one called the grigri 3 but then the reviews say it’s the 2 or the plus
Here are the links:
Neox (the newest device): www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Belay-Devices-And-Descenders/NEOX
This is the device I give to my clients and new lead belayers.
Grigri Plus (some people may call this the Grigri three): www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Belay-Devices-And-Descenders/GRIGRI-PLUS
This is the model that I have on my harness most of the time while guiding.
Grigri (this is the same as an old Grigri 2 - the Grigri 2 isn't technically made anymore, but some companies may still be selling their old stock, if you can get the newer model which will just be called the Grigri): www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Belay-Devices-And-Descenders/GRIGRI
This is the model I give to new top rope belayers and the one I like using as a sport climbing belay device personally.
Hope that helps!
@@ryantilley9063hey! Thanks for the response but I was referring to the one at 15:30
When searching I was trying to find the 3rd generation but kept getting linked to the grigri 2 (2nd gen)
The small knob which actually pinches the rope at the Neox appears fragile compared to the construction in the older versions of the Grigri. Hopefully this never cracks and breaks.
Regarding the block on the cam plate of current grigris, if excessive force is applied to the brake strand and the nose dips down too low the rope can pass under the block. You lose all braking if this happens. It takes a lot of force, but this is why you should never ascend the brake strand of a rope which someone is rappelling with a grigri, probably shouldn’t even fireman belay a grigri.
My first grigri was a plus and I really dislike it as 1) the settings is not really useful. Lock it in Lead mode and you are good to go for either. Second the « anti panic » mode is really annoying as it happens too often when there is no panic going on. I ended up buying the newer « non + » grigri which has all the worthwhile improvements (steel reinforcement new cam shape) but none of the gadgety bits.
I have to say I am eager to try the neox.
I like the grigri2 insted of the grigri plus because when i am lovering from above and i have a ridirect carabiner the grigri plus is going to the antipanick mode and with the neox you can not belay from above
You can belay from above with neox, it just doesn't autoblock like an atc which is why i also dont use it from above
What's the demo rope in this video Ryan?
It was an older version of the Sterling Areo 9.2
Hair or something is 100% going to get sucked into the neox lmao