still use oil based paints?
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- Опубліковано 26 сер 2024
- Hey there! Quick question - are you still using oil-based paint? I mean, no judgement or anything, but that's so 90s. There are some seriously amazing water-based paints out there now that you should definitely check out. It's like upgrading from a flip phone to a smartphone, but for painting. 😉
The issue I have found Phil is that Dulux Trade Satinwood (oil based) is bombproof and in 5 years has not visibly yellowed albeit it in a bright space. By comparison some water based satin and eggshell doors have gone sticky and yellowed where oils from hands have marked them and there is chipping and peeling in places around skirting. So I can see why water based has many advantages, however from a durability and therefore longevity perspective the oil based seems to win hands down provided it doesn’t yellow rapidly. I’m hoping that Aqua Guard is the answer as it applies nicely and seems a nice level, solid finish and a good white however time will tell. One clear advantage of water based is that it would be quick and easy to pop a few extra coats on if wear and tear sets in but my point is I’ve not had to do anything to the oily satin doors they look as good as the day they were painted and you don’t get that plastic ‘film’ effect.
Phil...there is a time and place for both types of paint and saying if you use oil you are stuck in the nineties is nonsense. Yes water based has some advantages but so does oil. A true pro will recognise which paint is best to use on the individual circumstances.personally I prefer oil based outside and sometimes indoors. I have just been doing a house renovation. One of the jobs was to have all the interior doors replaced. They were painted in a light grey colour. I did them in oil based. Several reasons a) it's more hard-wearing and gives a better finish b) it's cheaper to buy c) I can topcoat them in one hit which when you have 12 doors to do both sides is a good time saving. Any potential down sides don't exist in these circumstances as I personally am not bothered about the smell (can't believe dome decorators don't like the smell of paint )and the house is empty. There is no issue with drying times as they are done last thing so there were only disadvantages of using water based on this scenario.
And just to put the icing on the cake when the people who are buying the house came to look not only did the comment on the super high gloss on the doors they also said they love the smell of fresh paint...winner. interestingly the last occupant had a decorator in to paint the front door set, they did it in water based which had to be stripped off as it was peeling and flaking the oils based underneath was still intact and undamaged . When I stripped back the paint the only paint that survived the heat gun was the good old fashioned pink wood primer.
Thanks for commenting..... I like that :)
Agree sir
In my own house I've gone back to oil based Dulux trade satin wood. Easy to apply and nice to use. Water base is convenient and dries quicker, no smell, etc. I know, but it can flake off and needs more coats.
Great product and so far ours hasn’t yellowed in 5+ years. It seems a marketing tool for water based is ‘it won’t yellow’ but if it peels, flakes, chips or becomes tacky to touch after a few years it needs repainting.
I prefer oil-based paints for the following reasons: the application and workability with a good, broken-in brush is much better than with a water borne paint; I still believe, in terms of durability, oil is superior to water, particularly on externals. However, after using Farrow and Ball eggshell on an external, I must say I was impressed; I believe the finish from oil is much better. I’ve recently completed a HSL that had 12 panel doors with elaborate frames, which, following an oil-based system, looked like glass. Furthermore, I’m yet to be convinced that a water-based paint will resolve damp issues, when you consider stains use water as a vehicle in which to migrate. I appreciate there are downsides to using oil such as drying time and the finish going yellow. However, for the former, this issue could be mitigated through good planning. For the latter, isn’t this issue a consequence of the constant meddling in paint?
water based as I have no choice, would love to use oil based on window boards at least.
I find Johnston's aqua water based very hard to work with lately, even fleotrol doesn't help any more, it doesn't level out at all and I use some very nice brushes.
Try something else... Isomat flow lovely. You add 5-10% water to it anyway... You don't see any brush marks.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator thanks buddy will give it a go 👍
Horses for courses. 99% of my work is now w/b but I did do my own front door last year in tik miranol matched to a little greene shade. It did make a lovely change being back on the oil and the gloss after 3 coats was immense. However, clean up is a pain and I had to put driers in due to needing to shut the door. It's these reasons I prefer the practicality of w/b and will use whenever possible.
Still multiple coats though
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator yep it was no benefit in actual application time and actually took longer because of drying times.
No couse waterbased require sometimes 3x or more coats!
Have you used Tikkurila Mirinol? Still can require two top coats with some colours..... Try it in blue!
Still much prefer oil based on window cills especially as they don't tend to yellow as get plenty of light , water based can't get anywhere near oil based finish with owatrol added.
I’m still stuck in the 90s 😳
I wish i was still back in the 90s...thirty years younger much much much better times i was much better off better music, mobiles werent really around whats not to like ..if saying youre stuck in the ninetees is supposed to be an insult...well insult away lol 🤣
@@davewright9312 I was in my 20s in the 90s, best decade for music, exciting times 👍
@@garryleeks4848 20s and 30s for me..best time of my life..😊
I mostly use water based, but, I love the high gloss of an oil based and how nicely it levels, it's quite forgiving. I avoid using white oil based though due to constant warnings of it yellowing. I keep meaning to try floetrol with water based, would love to see a video of you using it 👍🏻
Will be coming ;)
You do know one of the main ingredients in it is PVA
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator boom 💥 and maybe a water based paint tramline test with different brushes / filament setups? Interesting to see what difference it would make 😁
@@ProfessionalPainterDecoratorI use solvent based paints when painting my fascia boards because it lasts longer than water based. I used a product called Dulux Weather shield Ultimate Opaque in satin and it went on beautiful. I applied 3 even coats. I only used water based paints inside my home. It's really personal preference...
@@rachelbailey52 as I said before.... How many times do you do an outside that's been down in oil and it's flaked and peeling.... It happens with oil based still.
Seeing a job next week.. black fascia boards... Coming off... Was oil last time... I know, as I did it.
I'm 99% waterbased have been for years they have come on leaps and bounds I was an apprentice in the 90s and was taught only using pure bristle still use them today you can get a great finish with them you really learn how to use a brush being taught with them I see it as like driving people who drive manual cars(pure bristle) can drive automatics(synthetic) but its difficult the other way round love your channel phil mate
Haha what a load of bolloxs bristle brushes are for dinosaurs....
Pure bristle is far superior in oil based paints , synthetics perform better than pure bristle in water based .
"Natural bristle brushes are not generally recommended for water-based coatings because the bristles absorb water, become limp and lose their shape. Synthetic bristle brushes are the preferred brush for water-based paints, though some are also rated for use with oil-based paints."
@@orbitalforest synthetic brushes are relatively new waterbased has been around for years what do you do to work a pure bristle in so it becomes ready for oil you bang it in emulsion but each to there own
@@anthonyoreilly8476 Synthetics have been around for the last couple of decades they're not relatively new , i was using Purdy synthetics 20 years ago (not keen on Purdys so much now) . A decent pure bristle like a Corona doesn't need "banging" in emulsion to ready it for use in oil gloss . I used to pre-use in emulsion myself back in the late 80s before using them for gloss . Staalmeester hybrids are equally good in water borne paints and oils , superb in fact.
I did a job today for a retired decorator . He did his lounge about 15 years ago. He had done his woodwork in oil based and Although the woodwork had discoloured, the finish was like glass. Really good quality and tough. I prepared it all and applied a coat of zinsser bully followed by 2 coats of Dulux trade water based satin, eased down with a drop or water using a good quality synthetic brush. It’s just not the same. I know it needs time to cure but I can’t see it looking like it did in 15 years. I asked him how he got it like he did and he said he used wet and dry sandpaper. Would using wet and dry before applying the water based make a big difference?
Three things.....
His gloss won't be like a satin.
Wet and Dry sanding is ideal if you know how to do it and also the more time you spend sanding with it, between coats the better your OIL based finish will be.
With waterbase..... Watch my videos on product testing..... There's better paints out there than the Dulux satin.... Dulux heritage eggshell.... I'd say youd be hard pushed to know if it was oil or water.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I’ll give it a try. It def felt a bit like a hybrid, bit of a brush killer as said in a previous vid. I prefer the Johnstones Aqua satin but it’s what the customers wife brought. Thanks phil!
Yes. I still use oil based paints. I use WB also. Pros and cons. WB has great advantages. However I do a lot of buildings over 100 years old. I have clients that still like high gloss. I like the smooth finish of oils and the feel of oils. I spray WB. Helmi is great sprayed. Not every job can be WB. Not every job will I use oil either. Depends on my project.
I still use hammerite for exterior metalwork, everything else is water based.
I love the smell of oil based as it’s the smell of money because you know you’re at the end of the job 😅.
Who cares about drying times? I’m at home having dinner while it’s drying.
By the time it has yellowed a waterbased has chipped and worn out. It’s basically liquid plastic which I don’t see why that’s better for the environment as you don’t wash oil down the drain everyday washing your brushes out like you do with liquid plastic!
Tbf how can you say people are stuck in the 90’s when you’re the one with the spiked up quiff? 😂
Better finish with oil based easier to work with. Water based more coats more work. No unless you show me something better waterbased. Used all kinds of makes of water based finish looked crap.
Did you not like Isomat?
What’s wrong with crown fastflow gloss ? Nothing that I can see lovely stuff
@@davidcottle7346 ill give it a whirl david got plenty glossing jobs coming up 👌
cause all but a couple water based paints aren't as good Phil
cheaper, easier to use and less coats
If its not broke.....well you know the rest.
what do you think to hybrid paints?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I'm still on the fence over that 🤔
@@Steve-so2jm some satin paints you wouldn't know if it was oil or wb when dry
@Phil Beckwith The Professional Painter & Decorator that's true, I find oil base coverage so much better. Perhaps need to try more of the hybrid products on the market.