the "knock sensor" i think is more likely an oil pressure switch. Hence why there is oil that is under pressure at that location. Knock sensors just sit in a metal chunk of block sensing pre-detornation knocks. That could be because of bad gas or excessive temperatures causing the gas to ignite at the wrong moment. (remember your coolant was super low, overheat and fuel was detonating wrong and the computer caught all that crap red-handed.)
Over heating is an under statement. It's hard to believe a machine that cost what this machine cost doesn't have an overheating shutdown before it gets so hot it melts plastic.
An overheating shutdown is also a system that can fail. Remember what happened to Apollo 13, the overheating cutoff switch failed to activate during tank testing because it was not rated to operate properly at all possible supply voltages.
It has a temp light, operator is responsable to shut of sled when lights come on, at some point rider needs to use common sense and not destroy his sled.
@@4knanapapa sounds logical but for snomobilers all eyes are on the trail or you go off the trail you go. My Nytro shuts off on it's own when left to sit and idle and overheat on it's own. But it doesn't shut down at the first over heat light when I am riding. When it does come on (and I notice it), I typically slow down and ride off trail a bit in search of loose snow which works fine every time. But during an intense trail ride I can definitely believe that light can be easily overlooked.
That starter is a champ. I honestly can't believe it survived all the abuse. Seriously dude take it easy. More starter burning or endless kickstarts won't make it run if there's other issues like bad spark plugs. This is mechanics 101, you're going to ruin good machines that way
That starter is a champ. I honestly can't believe it survived all the abuse. Seriously dude take it easy. More starter burning or endless kickstarts won't make it run if there's other issues like bad spark plugs. This is mechanics 101, you're going to ruin good machines that way
Lol I'm not telling him what to do, of course it's his. I'm offering constructive criticism. If you wreck a good machine doing stuff like that, it's hard to make money.
I would never buy a machine from you. Firstly a novice would realise it was an oil sensor first look. Secondly you allowed a machine that had an over heating issue that caused the initial problem to over heat again and then that freaking over starting. Holy shit man if a damn machine does not start after a few tries THERE IS A PROBLEM. A starter is NOT meant to crank long like that. WTF.
You should put the retainer back in your plug socket instead of dropping plugs down into the engine like that. It could alter the plug gap just saying. But great video as always Joe
That red light isn't for plug fouling, its the coolant temp light. You're supposed to let the coolant temp warm up before you ride it. It's not a 2 stroke. Constant throttle not constantly blipping it.
Hopefully the snow sets up better. Here it is too fresh and fluffy. If he can find some hard pack next time, he'll definitely lift the skis and fly vs all the track spin we are seeing here. Motor sounds like an angry bee -sweet and powerful.
Dont put Dielectric Grease on the electrode part of a spark plug. The grease is a insulating grease not conductive. You only want to put it on the porcelain part
It is hard to watch. If its going to start it will be within a couple cranks not killing the battery then putting a jumper pack on it . Its hard but funny also. But good luck man
😮 Man they've taken all the fun out of workiNg on your own toys anymore. To much garbage all over these things anymore for me. I loved the old days when you opened the hood on anything and wow there was an engine with the basic stuff that makes it run. This computer era has gone balls crazy with everything needed to monitor the engine and make the adjustments. Christ it's an all day event to put a new set of plugs in, replace the air filter and change the oil and filter anymore.. I guess that's progress. 😅😅😅
Dielectric grease prevents the transfer of electricity. Putting it on the metal parts of the spark plug would effectively reduce the spark from occurring. Only put it on the ceramic part of the plug
Quick note. Knock sensors can’t leak oil. :-). They measure a for a sharp knock throughout the engine block. They are normally a piezoelectric device. More vibration generates a high voltage signal. The computer knows cam and crank position as well as when spark is fired. So a knock signal larger than normal combustion near TDC or before the next spark event indicates which cylinder was knocking. Looks to me you need two sensors. Those engines are some of the best ever. Great power at 10,000 RPM and reliable at the same time. And the sound is incredible! My current RX1 I got for $1k. Wouldn’t start. Owner claimed it had a new solenoid and battery. Got it home and found some carb floats were stuck and filled the crankcase with oil and gas mix. Rebuilt the carbs, changed the oil and bought a new battery. Run like new ever since. Great sled it’s become a keeper. But I would replace it for an Apex like yours!
@@2vintage I often reply to videos while I’m watching them. Bad habit. I’m anal retentive due to my career which I’m retired from. So I have plenty of time to nit pick UA-cam videos!
Yeah for somebody who has fixed so many things it's kind of crazy. Holding the throttle open on an EFI machine that won't start for example will not help you.
You never want to put antiseize on the plug boots. Antiseize has metal particles in it. Will cause misfires. Antiseize is used on the spark plug threads.
@@notjoecheez1 He used antiseize it on the boot.. On the threads and on the tip of the plug he used dyeelectric.. Although you should never lubricate plug threads..
@@notjoecheez1 it was copper based anti-seize where a trace of dielectric should go, also on the ceramic outer plug portion. Not on the actual threaded ends. kind of backwards. It's to keep the rubber coil boots from setting up on the insulator bodies....
If that thing overheated that bad where it melted a whole bunch parts It would need a complete tear down. I'm sure you have lower end issues (Crank or rod Bearings Anyone?)
Hey brother, I've noticed in a couple of videos that you're leaving the outboards in the up position on the boats. You should always leave them in the down position in freezing weather. Water will collect in the foot through the exhaust and freeze and bust the foot. Hopefully it's not too late! Just an FYI.
Most people I know that have outboards that keep them in the up position make sure there is no water inside when they store them so if that has been done there shouldn't be a problem
@@186scott It doesn't matter if you drain them. If you leave them up and out in the weather and it rains it goes down the exhaust and collects in the foot where it can then freeze and bust but, to be honest, I don't know that much about boats. I grew up on the largest man-made lake east of the Mississippi, got my first boat when I was 13 and still own one to this day at 60, worked at a marina pumping gas from 13 to 16, drove a marine forklift at a dry dock storge and hauled 35 ft boats around as well as worked on them as a profession for 2 years so, it makes perfect sense to leave an OB or the outdrive of an IO up and take a chance on it freezing rather than put it in the down position and be absolutely sure it doesn't freeze. That's what all my friends do. Your friends are probably smarter than mine. I don't know what I was thinking trying to give some friendly advice to someone and possibly save them some time and money...My Bad! But hey! It'll make great content! 😏
@@ThaFailedMusician not trying to start anything and I am sure like me a few others are surprised by another way of storing them and I do completely understand your way and there are multiple way to skin a cat and I am sure there will be others that agree with you and agree with what I said
I live in tennessee and we just got dumped on by snow the other day. Wish I had a sled to crank around on this week! Kinda miss snowmobiling, snowboarding, and ice fishing. Awesome video as always bro! Keep up the awesome work!
I wrote it on the previous video of this machine, if it got that hot like the oil was cooking chances other parts are hit hard too. Like valves cam and Rod and crankshaft and all bearings or oil pump and everything engine-related took a hit. For a reliable machine, you should take the engine apart and check every piece for heat damage. Now you could have a machine that breaks down every time you take it for a spin. There is always a part that fails later on due to extensive overheating, this was a severe overheating. I wouldn't trust that engine .
Always remember on most single wire sensors of any kind. Use the housing as a ground. You should use liquid thread sealant to seal threads not Teflon tape, which will insulate the ground causing issues.
I had an 03 RX1, crazy fast!! Mine was carbed, would’ve rather had FI. Fast but HEAVY. Great for lake runs and packed trails. If you go off trail in any depth, walk away and come back in the spring- haha.
My apex weighs less than a 2024 Polaris xc s4 everyone thinks Yamaha is heavy. But there are new sleds out there that weigh more. But no one mentions them. Just saying.
Why the hell didn’t you first and foremost drain all the fuel? The very first thing you should have done! Fuel filter fuel Non ethanol fuel before you did anything Think of the amount of time you would have saved Simplistic first then more complex!!!
Is there a reason you don't use starter fluid? It seems to me that you could rule out spark/fuel issues with a few shots of the stuff. It would save a lot of abuse on the starter. I'm surprised you didn't burn that one up.
do not use superglue to fix things like leaking oil sensors.....even if it works its going to fail for the next guy and and most likely it will fail out in the middle of nowhere,,,,,never take shortcuts like that on snowmobiles,boats or airplanes
I think the stale fuel was not helping trying to start it,I know if i leave my gsxr1000 over winter the stale fuel varnishes the injectors and it can be a pig to start until i put fresh fuel in. GREAT MACHINE you got there looks like a lot of fun.
Hey Joe on that APEX's when you start them up on the display there's a red light that comes on after you start it. When the red light goes out then your good to turn it off or your foul plugs all day long on that machine.
Nevermind I seen you figured that one out already... Good job. Watch Pete over on Redneck and Dirty Hands he's really good with them sleds and explains a lot on why they fail and how to prevent them. Hope it helps
To really get the antifreeze burped out, raise the front of the sled 45 degrees and continue to add until full. The coolant lines typically go all the way back above the track. These 4 bangers are fast.
wearing headphones nd listening to that starter go on nd on... got pretty annoying kinda was wishing it would burn out lol after 5 attempts nd no start, its usually a sign of an underlying issue... prob fuel/carb related
This thing must've gotten lava hot for all these components to melt like they did. Even the dipstick, which was separate from the engine itself, was goo. Can't wait to see how it ends with this beast, but I wouldn't hold my breath because all of these melted components can't be a good sign for the engine (and subsequently the one low cylinder). I'm hoping there's no damage to the wiring harness because judging by how hot it got, it'd be a miracle if it's still 💯% intact. Good luck in advance!
As soon as you put the black old plugs in I said wait for the new plugs. The old plugs were black and shiny. Means excess oil or fuel. My dad was a mechanic and he showed me that if there is fouling, pull the plugs out and turn the engine over. Heat the plugs up and re-install. Start as soon as possible.
You probably figured it out but the knock sensor is between the middle 2 cyl about 5 inches from your oil pressure sensor. Replace it. Put the nose up on a snow bank and pop the coolant cap to burp the system. Don't ride until you clear all the codes. The sled will shut off if it doesn't see oil pressure that is the code 30 you mentioned. You stole the sled, even if #1 is a little low on compression, run the yamaha ring free for a few tanks and you may get lucky. What was that ticking when it was first outside? That is how they are supposed to start, don't crank longer then 20 seconds, swap the plugs immediately. Have fun!
Love those snowmobile my brother and I talk about those snowmobile he has an skidoo mzx 583 and I just have plain Jane snowmobile I’ll like to find an fast one
Hi from Randy in Chattanooga, Tennessee. Not having an oil pressure sensor in there won’t stop you from having oil pressure. It just won’t show it. P S: Love your channel. I’m subscribing RIGHT NOW!
Once those sensors burst&leak,same as oil pressure switches just bin them & replace for new..as there junk after failure &will keep throwing the code up..Ozzy UK.
That’s a keeper at that price you’ll never find another one at that price and Yamaha is done making snowmobiles in 2025 so you got a gem. I’m a ski doo guy and if I can an older Yamaha I’m grabbing it just to have. 👍👍👍👍🇨🇦🇨🇦🇨🇦
As a general rule, knock sensors are single wire and thread into a hole that does NOT go into any passage but bottoms out somewhere in the side of the blocks water jacket, without contacting coolant, oil or anything else except the block. I believe yours is just above and to the left of the oil pressure sensor looking front to back. Very low coolant can trigger the knock sensor because A) The engine will knock when hot or with bad fuel due to multiple combustions colliding in the cylinder (it's hot) and or B) because the knock sensor is essentially screwed into a hollow drum i.e. the coolant dampens the knock by filling the drum. Naturally a rod knock will trigger the knock sensor as well.
On sensors you can check the ohms with a simple voltage tester. All sensors are is resistance... too much or too little and the sensor is bad. I always test them and can check with spec sheets to see what the range should be. If there isn't info I just buy a new sensor and test it before I put it in and note it in the manual so I, or the next guy has it for referance. I hope that makes sense. TEST THE SENSORS TO SEE IF THEY ARE GOOD OR BAD WHEN YOU TAKE THEM OUT OR SEE A CODE! It will save you so many headaches.
buy up all the yamahas , they are leaving the game after this year. stick that one in the 2vintage museum. shes a collector now. they are fast as anything out there. its a trail beast thou!! have fun with it joe.
When you start a Yamaha, the temp light flashes. You have to wait till that light goes out before you Shut it off and restart it. Or will foul out the plugs and be harder to start..
Man that starter wins the champion of the year Mortske award!!
Holy cow man! You should know with all the machines you work on if it doesn’t crank in a few revolutions something is wrong
Exactly. All of that could have cost him a starter🤦♂️🤷♂️
When it cranked for a few rotations I was like Ok, look at something else, cooking the starter does not help anything.
the "knock sensor" i think is more likely an oil pressure switch. Hence why there is oil that is under pressure at that location. Knock sensors just sit in a metal chunk of block sensing pre-detornation knocks. That could be because of bad gas or excessive temperatures causing the gas to ignite at the wrong moment. (remember your coolant was super low, overheat and fuel was detonating wrong and the computer caught all that crap red-handed.)
Over heating is an under statement. It's hard to believe a machine that cost what this machine cost doesn't have an overheating shutdown before it gets so hot it melts plastic.
They do but only at idle I believe, not when they're running!
Even all newer outboards have them. They will idle , but that's it until they cool off.
An overheating shutdown is also a system that can fail. Remember what happened to Apollo 13, the overheating cutoff switch failed to activate during tank testing because it was not rated to operate properly at all possible supply voltages.
It has a temp light, operator is responsable to shut of sled when lights come on, at some point rider needs to use common sense and not destroy his sled.
@@4knanapapa sounds logical but for snomobilers all eyes are on the trail or you go off the trail you go. My Nytro shuts off on it's own when left to sit and idle and overheat on it's own. But it doesn't shut down at the first over heat light when I am riding. When it does come on (and I notice it), I typically slow down and ride off trail a bit in search of loose snow which works fine every time. But during an intense trail ride I can definitely believe that light can be easily overlooked.
That starter............I mean I have never.............I'm just speechless.
@BreatheScotland It's freezing there... so I'm cheering for the starter! Go starter!
👍@@timewa851
My deepest condolences to the starter’s family.
the starter will have been extreme hot; a miracle that he survived!
That starter is a champ. I honestly can't believe it survived all the abuse. Seriously dude take it easy. More starter burning or endless kickstarts won't make it run if there's other issues like bad spark plugs. This is mechanics 101, you're going to ruin good machines that way
The hole engine was cooked 😂😂. Doesn't matter the starter was cooked long before he got it.
@@jerrywilcox9890 Obviously not. It is still working. 🙄
@ThaFailedMusician no shit it's still working lol.never said it wasn't hahaha.
@ThaFailedMusician it doesn't matter how long he used the starter.but before long it won't be.it will be going out.
That starter is a champ. I honestly can't believe it survived all the abuse. Seriously dude take it easy. More starter burning or endless kickstarts won't make it run if there's other issues like bad spark plugs. This is mechanics 101, you're going to ruin good machines that way
I think you´re just jealous he got so good sled for that cheap..😅😛
It's his he can do what he wants.who are you to tell him what to do 😂😂😂.
Lol I'm not telling him what to do, of course it's his. I'm offering constructive criticism. If you wreck a good machine doing stuff like that, it's hard to make money.
😂😂😂😂
Shut up jerry. Moronic stance. @jerrywilcox9890
I would never buy a machine from you. Firstly a novice would realise it was an oil sensor first look. Secondly you allowed a machine that had an over heating issue that caused the initial problem to over heat again and then that freaking over starting. Holy shit man if a damn machine does not start after a few tries THERE IS A PROBLEM. A starter is NOT meant to crank long like that. WTF.
You should put the retainer back in your plug socket instead of dropping plugs down into the engine like that. It could alter the plug gap just saying. But great video as always Joe
You did just fine until you said "just saying "
It adds nothing to your point.
Well I said that so people don't think I'm trying to come across the wrong way or like a know-it-all because that's not the case..
Feel free to skip from about 11:30 until the 19:00 mark if you don't want to go absolutely crazy with starter noises. 😆
Thanks boss!
Yea, that was painfull
Man, your runnin a master class on how to burn up a starter!!!
That red light isn't for plug fouling, its the coolant temp light. You're supposed to let the coolant temp warm up before you ride it. It's not a 2 stroke. Constant throttle not constantly blipping it.
I hope there’s a part three. I wanna see it rip on your land! It sure sounds mean and nasty.
Hopefully the snow sets up better. Here it is too fresh and fluffy. If he can find some hard pack next time, he'll definitely lift the skis and fly vs all the track spin we are seeing here. Motor sounds like an angry bee -sweet and powerful.
Dont put Dielectric Grease on the electrode part of a spark plug. The grease is a insulating grease not conductive. You only want to put it on the porcelain part
That really is a strong starter ran down 2 jump packs holy poop chutes dude...
It is hard to watch. If its going to start it will be within a couple cranks not killing the battery then putting a jumper pack on it . Its hard but funny also. But good luck man
😮
Man they've taken all the fun out of workiNg on your own toys anymore. To much garbage all over these things anymore for me. I loved the old days when you opened the hood on anything and wow there was an engine with the basic stuff that makes it run. This computer era has gone balls crazy with everything needed to monitor the engine and make the adjustments. Christ it's an all day event to put a new set of plugs in, replace the air filter and change the oil and filter anymore.. I guess that's progress. 😅😅😅
Dielectric grease prevents the transfer of electricity. Putting it on the metal parts of the spark plug would effectively reduce the spark from occurring. Only put it on the ceramic part of the plug
No starters were harmed in the making of this video. Thanks for being just plain honest about what you are doing and discovering.
Knock sensorseem to be above oil sensor on the left with the hose ,bolted nearly horizontally ,it's in the cylinder wall/engine block. 31:41
Runs mint only takes 5 batteries 1 melted starter and several hours to get her going
Quick note. Knock sensors can’t leak oil. :-). They measure a for a sharp knock throughout the engine block. They are normally a piezoelectric device. More vibration generates a high voltage signal. The computer knows cam and crank position as well as when spark is fired. So a knock signal larger than normal combustion near TDC or before the next spark event indicates which cylinder was knocking. Looks to me you need two sensors.
Those engines are some of the best ever. Great power at 10,000 RPM and reliable at the same time. And the sound is incredible!
My current RX1 I got for $1k. Wouldn’t start. Owner claimed it had a new solenoid and battery. Got it home and found some carb floats were stuck and filled the crankcase with oil and gas mix. Rebuilt the carbs, changed the oil and bought a new battery. Run like new ever since. Great sled it’s become a keeper. But I would replace it for an Apex like yours!
Yeah it was the oil pressure sensor not the knock sensor
@@2vintage I often reply to videos while I’m watching them. Bad habit. I’m anal retentive due to my career which I’m retired from. So I have plenty of time to nit pick UA-cam videos!
Hack job on this one man. Take your time and fix it right before you trash it
Yeah for somebody who has fixed so many things it's kind of crazy. Holding the throttle open on an EFI machine that won't start for example will not help you.
Burn out many starters Mate?
You never want to put antiseize on the plug boots. Antiseize has metal particles in it. Will cause misfires. Antiseize is used on the spark plug threads.
Ya and swell the boots
He used dyelectric grease. Not anti seize.
@@notjoecheez1 He used antiseize it on the boot.. On the threads and on the tip of the plug he used dyeelectric.. Although you should never lubricate plug threads..
yep, i saw that too, got it backwards.
@@notjoecheez1 it was copper based anti-seize where a trace of dielectric should go, also on the ceramic outer plug portion. Not on the actual threaded ends.
kind of backwards. It's to keep the rubber coil boots from setting up on the insulator bodies....
Ya buddy, burn that starter up! Why does he keep goosing it!?
Can really hear the one hole is low on compression during cranking.. galloping like a horse. She ain't healthy
If that thing overheated that bad where it melted a whole bunch parts It would need a complete tear down. I'm sure you have lower end issues (Crank or rod Bearings Anyone?)
Dropping spark plugs down in the holes will close that gap you need
Hey brother, I've noticed in a couple of videos that you're leaving the outboards in the up position on the boats. You should always leave them in the down position in freezing weather. Water will collect in the foot through the exhaust and freeze and bust the foot. Hopefully it's not too late! Just an FYI.
Hope he sees your comment before it's to late good eye brother
Good to know, ill have to keep this in mind
Most people I know that have outboards that keep them in the up position make sure there is no water inside when they store them so if that has been done there shouldn't be a problem
@@186scott It doesn't matter if you drain them. If you leave them up and out in the weather and it rains it goes down the exhaust and collects in the foot where it can then freeze and bust but, to be honest, I don't know that much about boats. I grew up on the largest man-made lake east of the Mississippi, got my first boat when I was 13 and still own one to this day at 60, worked at a marina pumping gas from 13 to 16, drove a marine forklift at a dry dock storge and hauled 35 ft boats around as well as worked on them as a profession for 2 years so, it makes perfect sense to leave an OB or the outdrive of an IO up and take a chance on it freezing rather than put it in the down position and be absolutely sure it doesn't freeze. That's what all my friends do. Your friends are probably smarter than mine. I don't know what I was thinking trying to give some friendly advice to someone and possibly save them some time and money...My Bad! But hey! It'll make great content! 😏
@@ThaFailedMusician not trying to start anything and I am sure like me a few others are surprised by another way of storing them and I do completely understand your way and there are multiple way to skin a cat and I am sure there will be others that agree with you and agree with what I said
FRESH OIL AND ANTI FREEZE ALSO ? guess i was reading your mind! not surprised how fast it is either ... A BEAST!
I live in tennessee and we just got dumped on by snow the other day. Wish I had a sled to crank around on this week! Kinda miss snowmobiling, snowboarding, and ice fishing. Awesome video as always bro! Keep up the awesome work!
I wrote it on the previous video of this machine, if it got that hot like the oil was cooking chances other parts are hit hard too.
Like valves cam and Rod and crankshaft and all bearings or oil pump and everything engine-related took a hit.
For a reliable machine, you should take the engine apart and check every piece for heat damage.
Now you could have a machine that breaks down every time you take it for a spin.
There is always a part that fails later on due to extensive overheating, this was a severe overheating.
I wouldn't trust that engine .
Always remember on most single wire sensors of any kind. Use the housing as a ground. You should use liquid thread sealant to seal threads not Teflon tape, which will insulate the ground causing issues.
This comment is why I’m here in the comment section could possibly be the reason for the code?
100%
I had an 03 RX1, crazy fast!! Mine was carbed, would’ve rather had FI.
Fast but HEAVY. Great for lake runs and packed trails. If you go off trail in any depth, walk away and come back in the spring- haha.
My apex weighs less than a 2024 Polaris xc s4 everyone thinks Yamaha is heavy. But there are new sleds out there that weigh more. But no one mentions them. Just saying.
@tomreynolds5767 lmao! Yep my sleds no feather either
Rule#1 change the plugs. Can't tell ya how many times I messed with stuff and it was the stupid plug
YES! And rule #2, remove old gas and put in fresh gas.
Even with four strokes.
Anyone else get so frustrated watching this that you had to come to the comments.
New plugs at the start of every riding season that’s what I do.
Holy Cow, that starter😳😳
Jeez, what a battery. I have never heard anyone grind a starter like this.
Get a new sensor.
And wipe the grease off of your plugs that will help
Talk about doing stupid things
Why the hell cut corners? Duh!
Buy a new sensor THEN RUN IT
It’s not rocket science is it🤣🤣🤣🤣
R.I.P starter. FFS man OBVIOUSLY cranking it and saying "it wants to go" or "it's getting close" isn't the awnser.
Wow! That’s one helluva starter. Thought for sure it was going to fry.
Why the hell didn’t you first and foremost drain all the fuel?
The very first thing you should have done! Fuel filter fuel Non ethanol fuel before you did anything
Think of the amount of time you would have saved
Simplistic first then more complex!!!
Hope you got lots of money for belts.
Keep doing that ricky racer throttle blipping, the shops love to sell you belts
No kidding, wow
Is there a reason you don't use starter fluid? It seems to me that you could rule out spark/fuel issues with a few shots of the stuff. It would save a lot of abuse on the starter. I'm surprised you didn't burn that one up.
Please jack the track off the ground. Every time it lurches ahead I think it is going through the wall. That could hurt someone.
do not use superglue to fix things like leaking oil sensors.....even if it works its going to fail for the next guy and and most likely it will fail out in the middle of nowhere,,,,,never take shortcuts like that on snowmobiles,boats or airplanes
I think the stale fuel was not helping trying to start it,I know if i leave my gsxr1000 over winter the stale fuel varnishes the injectors and it can be a pig to start until i put fresh fuel in. GREAT MACHINE you got there looks like a lot of fun.
Hey Joe on that APEX's when you start them up on the display there's a red light that comes on after you start it. When the red light goes out then your good to turn it off or your foul plugs all day long on that machine.
Nevermind I seen you figured that one out already... Good job. Watch Pete over on Redneck and Dirty Hands he's really good with them sleds and explains a lot on why they fail and how to prevent them. Hope it helps
He says that in the video
@@billhenry7833 good to see you watched Joe's video all the way threw
There’s Gota be some local trails in your area, take it for a ride and make a video!
To really get the antifreeze burped out, raise the front of the sled 45 degrees and continue to add until full. The coolant lines typically go all the way back above the track. These 4 bangers are fast.
i think you are the King of fouled plugs lol, you need to start moving that to your check list first lol
wearing headphones nd listening to that starter go on nd on... got pretty annoying
kinda was wishing it would burn out lol
after 5 attempts nd no start, its usually a sign of an underlying issue... prob fuel/carb related
I was about to comment that the "knock sensor" looked an awful lot like an oil pressure sensor, then you found it.🙂
just a thought, you added teflon tape to the thread of the knock sensor- could it be you have interrupted its ground path.
Oh so that’s how you fix stuff just keep cranking… there’s obviously a problem
This thing must've gotten lava hot for all these components to melt like they did. Even the dipstick, which was separate from the engine itself, was goo. Can't wait to see how it ends with this beast, but I wouldn't hold my breath because all of these melted components can't be a good sign for the engine (and subsequently the one low cylinder). I'm hoping there's no damage to the wiring harness because judging by how hot it got, it'd be a miracle if it's still 💯% intact. Good luck in advance!
Should have put the anti seize on the threads and grease on the boot not the other way around.
Hope you got it in neutral. Looks like it would go thru the wall.
god bless your persistence and your starter
I see I'm not the only one seriously impressed with that starter
i would have checked cam/crank sensor or timing device, or swapped plugs before trying to kill the starter in a blaze of glory.
As soon as you put the black old plugs in I said wait for the new plugs. The old plugs were black and shiny. Means excess oil or fuel. My dad was a mechanic and he showed me that if there is fouling, pull the plugs out and turn the engine over. Heat the plugs up and re-install. Start as soon as possible.
This is painful watching, cus Ignorance and common sense goes out the window
Was the rad repaired where the stud put a hole in it when you bought it?
Use the parking brake if it works.
I normally pull the belt. Just don’t rev it hard enough go close the primary hard.
You probably figured it out but the knock sensor is between the middle 2 cyl about 5 inches from your oil pressure sensor. Replace it. Put the nose up on a snow bank and pop the coolant cap to burp the system. Don't ride until you clear all the codes. The sled will shut off if it doesn't see oil pressure that is the code 30 you mentioned. You stole the sled, even if #1 is a little low on compression, run the yamaha ring free for a few tanks and you may get lucky. What was that ticking when it was first outside? That is how they are supposed to start, don't crank longer then 20 seconds, swap the plugs immediately. Have fun!
Love those snowmobile my brother and I talk about those snowmobile he has an skidoo mzx 583 and I just have plain Jane snowmobile I’ll like to find an fast one
Joe not to sound like a dick, but never seize on the threads of the plugs , dielectric grease goes on the coil boots and the top of the plugs bud !!!
Hi from Randy in Chattanooga, Tennessee. Not having an oil pressure sensor in there won’t stop you from having oil pressure. It just won’t show it. P S: Love your channel. I’m subscribing RIGHT NOW!
I think the knock sensor is that single wire sensor coming off the block in the middle
Dump that rotten fuel. Run non-oxygenated fuel only.
Welcome to the game of money pit snowmobiles.
Enjoy !
Once those sensors burst&leak,same as oil pressure switches just bin them & replace for new..as there junk after failure &will keep throwing the code up..Ozzy UK.
Man I cringe everytime you lay into a starter for that long! Besides that, love your content.
That’s a keeper at that price you’ll never find another one at that price and Yamaha is done making snowmobiles in 2025 so you got a gem. I’m a ski doo guy and if I can an older Yamaha I’m grabbing it just to have. 👍👍👍👍🇨🇦🇨🇦🇨🇦
As a general rule, knock sensors are single wire and thread into a hole that does NOT go into any passage but bottoms out somewhere in the side of the blocks water jacket, without contacting coolant, oil or anything else except the block. I believe yours is just above and to the left of the oil pressure sensor looking front to back. Very low coolant can trigger the knock sensor because A) The engine will knock when hot or with bad fuel due to multiple combustions colliding in the cylinder (it's hot) and or B) because the knock sensor is essentially screwed into a hollow drum i.e. the coolant dampens the knock by filling the drum. Naturally a rod knock will trigger the knock sensor as well.
When u start it up there is a light on the dash u can’t dhut the sled off intell the light goes off or u have a chance of fouling out plugs
Ok this was from a to be continued episode. No wonder it looks familiar. Cheers! 🍻
Never seen anti seized used on rubber and dielectric used on threads sorta back wards 😂
48:31 did you have to sneak up on the tired starter😭😭
Wow, nice work Joe, I think I'll just keep my 570F Fan forever so I don't have to commit suicide trying to fix a 4 stroke!
luckily you rarely have to fix these 4 strokes.
Consider suspension tune up before long ride.
On sensors you can check the ohms with a simple voltage tester. All sensors are is resistance... too much or too little and the sensor is bad. I always test them and can check with spec sheets to see what the range should be. If there isn't info I just buy a new sensor and test it before I put it in and note it in the manual so I, or the next guy has it for referance. I hope that makes sense. TEST THE SENSORS TO SEE IF THEY ARE GOOD OR BAD WHEN YOU TAKE THEM OUT OR SEE A CODE! It will save you so many headaches.
Love your channel bro! Keep at it!
I’ve fowled plugs in my apex doing 1 minute of what you did for a week ! I’m surprised you didn’t know,,, Yamaha’s in older Apex’s fowl so easily
Bro who just cranks it over and over like that?? Straight common sense
Great video you have so much more patience then i do enjoy you video Great job 👍🇺🇸
I would hang on to that sled now that Yamaha will stop production on sleds 2025
25% of this video was purely the starter spinning away. Probably could use a new starter by now
buy up all the yamahas , they are leaving the game after this year. stick that one in the 2vintage museum. shes a collector now. they are fast as anything out there. its a trail beast thou!! have fun with it joe.
Engine is still knocking, sounds like it is limp mode.
When you start a Yamaha, the temp light flashes. You have to wait till that light goes out before you Shut it off and restart it. Or will foul out the plugs and be harder to start..
When trying to start..serious blow by
And cylinder 3 is blowing back out the carb
Wow.....almost burned it down a second time!
Well that was enough for me to not want a snowmobile.
What part of Wisconsin are you from?