EASY! Pocket Power MODIFICATION Parkside Performance PDSSAP 20-li B3 C3 1/2 conversion FULL TUTORIAL
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- Опубліковано 26 лис 2023
- Same procedure for the C3 PDSSAP 1/2" conversion!
No more broken adaptors. No more long and hard to use tools.
Spend 10 to 15 EUR and get this done! It ill not disappoint!
This is a PLUG & PLAY conversion! No machining needed!
You will find all the sizes and links for parts as well as explanations in this video:
• Know your options! Par...
*Please look about as cheaper, better or faster to arrive options may be available!
** I do not have any association with the sellers to whom I have posted links above. I have shared these links, simply because at the time of posting they had the cheapest prices.
What I used in the video:
- H3 bit
- PH2 bit
- PZ1 bit
- Parkside PBSA E4 12V
- 5ml syringe with lithium grease EP2
- Circlip pliers (used to get the O-ring off from the original anvil. This can also be done with just a screwdriver, however I did not have a small enough one)
Music from #Uppbeat (free for Creators!):
uppbeat.io/t/matrika/smack-that
License code: DLH2M9EWVAGLUYHL
Got tired of broken adapters. Just did my conversion now. Super easy. Thanks
You are most welcome! I hope you enjoy your tool a bit more!
I don’t know how to thank You… i made the conversion Right now…fantastic! Become a Perfect tool to work On Cars or light vehicles! Greetings from Italy
Thank you! I am glad I managed to help! I used...well tried to use the 12V PPDSSA A1 for car maintenance today. It managed to undo 5 out of the 10 bolts I asked it to undo. I wish I brought my 20V 1/2 converted tool. It would have been much easier...
I did the conversion. is now much more reliable to use. especially when working on the car.
I am very happy that you like your modified tool! I would say after some time it would be a good idea to open it up again and check everything inside is doing well. If it needs more lubricant or just a general look in to it to make sure it is ok. Otherwise with the 1/2" mod it is a very short and powerful tool that can go in to very tight places and gets the job done a lot of the time. I love it!
I have converted few days ago and performed the replacement of the lower arms and strutts on my Renault Kadjar. The impact wrench is very handy and powerfull than before ! more powerfull than the 400 nm Brushed version ! small and easy to place in small areas .
@broke life eu , thanks a lot for the tutorial !
Happy to help! For me it has become the go to tool for my automotive needs! Very compact and powerful for its size. It has not let me down. I hope you will enjoy yours!
Hello, great and very simple video. Thank you so much for sharing the links of the hardware for the conversion. I've already ordered mine, x2
Happy to help! It cost me a lot of time to research this when I wanted to do it. I ended up paying a lot to someone to get a cheap anvil machined to fit and then a bit more to machine me a bushing. This is why I started this channel. Because I thought it could be done a lot cheaper and that there were ready made parts somewhere. They just needed to be found! So your comment makes me really happy, knowing I helped! I hope you enjoy your modified tool!
Ho Ho Ho, I've got my Xmas present sooner... The parts have just arrived, now time to exchange the parts!
I did the conversion too and this tool is awesome with a 8Ah battery. I have undone wheel screws on a Renault Master Truck, and damper pulley screw on a Renault Clio 4 1.5 DCI
Great job! I am glad you are enjoying it! Is it the B2 or B3?
Very good, very interesting and clear explanation
Thank you for the high mark! Coming from someone with such experience on the platform it really means a lot!
Very good, thank you! I think car wheels should be around 120Nm so adapter will work fine, but the mod is great also. The anvil has a hole for stopper but doesn't have one itself?
Thank you for taking the time to comment! The anvil can take a 1/2“ socket on the outside and in the middle there is a hole with a magnet inside for a 1/4“ hex. However the 1/4“ in that case would be for occasional use. I would not trust the magnet to survive for long if subjected to the full 226Nm.
Great video! Tnx once again. Can’t wait to modify mine.
You are welcome! Glad I could provide you with something helpful! Let me know if any questions come up!
@ivankljucar597 Ivane jesi iz Hrvatske? Jesi naručio s linkova iz videa? Koliko je shipping? Meni prikazuje ukupno 8€
@@poseidonearth pozdrav! Jesam, iz Hrvatske sam, Bjelovar, ti? Jos nisam narucivao ali definitivno budem
@@ivankljucar597 ja sam ZG. Isto nisam naručivao, ali tražim jel ima neki prodavač koji ne naplaćuje poštarinu
Perfect Tutorial very nice thank you mate 👍👍👍
Thank you very much! I hope it was what you needed! Unfortunately not how I wanted and not the best quality tutorial. But it was so cold and windy it was the best I could manage. Please feel free to share how your conversion goes. As you can see there is no power gain, however there is no power loss too. The best thing about it is that without the adapter the tool is shorter and you don't end up braking adapters every two days. And these anvils are a much better quality than the other ones that need machining.
@@BrokeLifeEUthe only reason why I want to change it is because of breaking these adapters, I think the tool itself is already strong, will make the conversion tomorrow👍
Let me know if any questions come up!@@halildogan5422
very interesting mod, I broke many adapters with my makita by changing wheels :D
SAME, however I spent a lot of time thinking about this conversion. I read lots of comments saying that it was designed to be an impact driver and anything other than that is misuse. After the 7th adaptor I gave up and did this. Never looked back since!
Thanks will do this mod too!
Thank you for watching! I hope you enjoyed my low budget production! This mod is a really good way to avoid broken adaptors!
very interesting video, I want to know if there is an equally simple method for the A1 version as well? thank you.
Unfortunately I don‘t have the A1 version in order to figure it out. If I get one I will see what I can do for sure!
Muchas gracias!! Buen video tutorial ;)
¡Muchas gracias! ¡Es un gran placer para mí saber que ayudé! Espero que disfrutes el canal y espero verte de nuevo!
Nice but in the end both adapter and modified seem to work at the same speed 🤷♂️
How many newton meters is it supposed to have approximately?
In your other video I see that the modified is stronger than the 12v, although the 12v is rated at 300Nm and this one (unmodified) at 226Nm) - what am I missing? Thank you!
The modification does not really increase the torque rating. It just helps not to lose torque through an adapter and also not to break an adapter. In another video the PDDSAP C3 takes off a wheel bolt tightened to 210Nm pretty fast, whereas the PPDSSA (12V) did have to hammer on the same bolt for some time. 12V vs 20V is a big difference.
@BrokeLifeEU Are you sure this anvil and bushing will fit the C3? Is disassembling the C3 and especially the head the same? Thanks.
Yes, the same. It will fit. I just uploaded a teardown video on both of them. I did not remove the anvils, but you will see clearly enough that they are mostly identical.
@@BrokeLifeEU Thank you!
Does this anvil work for other impact drivers? I’m interested in doing this to my craftsman V20 RP impact driver.
I don‘t have that same impact unfortunately, however if you give me the size of the anvil and bushing on it I can check with this one and then we will have at least some idea about it!
You are awesome
Thank you, but you are the AWESOMEST!!!
Hi! Thanks for a usefull video! Im going to convert mine too as soon as my anvil and bushing arrives! 🙏🏻 What type of grease did you use in the video? In the syringe? Thanks in advance! /Your new subscriber
Thank you so much for subscribing! I hope your orders arrive as fast as possible and you wnjoy your new tool! I used high temperature lithium grease #2, because that was the best I could find. However Milwaukee and I believe Makita have a special impact wrench grease which I think would be the absolute best option! However I am sure the price is also quite a lot.
@@BrokeLifeEU Thanks for your reply! I ordered 2 weeks ago from the links you had in the videos description 🙏🏻 They will arrive soon! Okey some high temp lithium grease, perfect thanks! I love this tool, i have a few diffrent brands but i love the trigger control on parkside performace series tools! Great low rpm control! Looking forward to the conversion! Happy new year to you! 🎉
Happy new year to you too and all the best! I hope you will enjoy your new modified tool!
I did this to a C3, works great but. The anvil is thicker by 1mm and something on the part where the hammer hits and as such it rubs on the plastic washer in the casing up front and gets very hot. Not sure what to do, mill the anvil a bit or just go with it and see how much it lasts.
Mill or grind down the anvil for sure! It should move freely by hand!
I had the same issue with my C3 (2 months old).
Took a bench grinder to the back of the new anvil and after a few minutes of grinding on the side of the stone, being careful to take off material as evenly as possible, I got the anvil down to the same thickness as the original one.
Now it moves freely by hand and works great. Thanks!
good video
Thank you so much! Just getting started with the channel so it means A LOT!
bonjour de BELGIQUE super vidéooooooo merci
BONJOUR 🇧🇪 Je vous remercie pour vos aimables paroles! Ils comptent vraiment beaucoup pour moi!
hello, wonderful video that shows well.
Are the parts the same for B3 and C3?
THANKS
Thank you! Glad you like it! The parts are identical. I have a new video in which I convert the C3 you can have a look if you wish. I think you may like it!
@@BrokeLifeEU great then I'll watch the video for the c3.
thank you again and good luck with your channel, it is really useful
Thank you very much! I hope you find the conversion option you are looking for!
Thanks again; I finally did the mod. Does your machine also "clicks" when you change direction modes? i.e. you press the button then hold down the power button and it "clicks" when changing direction.
Yes it does, because the hammer hits the anvil. It easier to hear with the new 1/2“ anvil than it was with the original 1/4“ anvil. Did you test it?
@@BrokeLifeEU Aight got it, yeah I did. Also hope I greased the inside metal ring enough, didn't see you do it in the video?
I'm not used to everything working as intended on the first try :P
@ThePiekartz 😂 Neither am I but this is an easy job. The bushing in the video is what they call a graphite self lubricating so I thought I would try out the self lubricationg functions of it. So far so good. But later I did try out a steel bushing on the C3 conversion if you have seen that one and in that case I did apply lubricant on the inside of the bushing too.
@@BrokeLifeEU Got the same bushing, cheers. Will report back if it breaks or anything
Hi, thanks for the guide. I'd love a 3/8 anvil though, do you perhaps know if theres one that'd fit?
I would too! I spent many long hours trying to find one that would fit, however it was all in vain. I could not find one that is a direct fit on that hammering mechanism. Also getting one and reworking it to fit would cost more than the tool itself. DeWalt anvils were closest, however just the anvil is about 50 USD and then you need shipping and machining on top of that. It would not have been an easy task not one that made financial sense. I still leave the door to it open though! You never know I may end up convincing some vendor somewhere to make 3/8 anvils... I hope I get to that point one day!
Thought as much, thank you for the infos. Got the 1/2 anvil already, just missing the bearing as it never arrived :D
Ordered a needle bearing in the size now. When its here and I converted it I will send back the 12v,as per your video the 20v with its higher rpm is just the better compact
@@BrokeLifeEU
Bear in mind that if it is the needle bearing from Aliexpress I have also seen one on that site and I very much doubt it will be able to cope with the impacting of the tool. It could be a very short life for that needle bearing. I would say either go with a steel bearing or this bronze one. I will have experience with the steel one in a couple of weeks. For now the bronze one from the link has been in one of my tools for about a year, yes it is for occasional use, but still no problems at all. It even looks like new!
Not an Ali unit but I will keep that in mind, mainly ordered it because couldnt find one like the one you listed with reasonable shipping times. I'll see how it holds ups and if it fails I can just swap it out
@@BrokeLifeEU
As long as you keep an eye on it should be no problem. But I would not trust it for heavy duty use. Steel is the way to go for that. I have one in the pipeline. We‘ll see how it goes.
Thank you friend for the vídeo, im waiting for Aliexpress to send it, what about the new 12v parkside 1/2 anvil impact driver ???? Review coming?
Absolutely! As soon as the 12V arrives. I am hoping any day now as I ordered it as soon as it was available on Lidl Online.
20v vs 12v review is now available to watch on the channel! I hope you like it!
Hello,
great attempt.
Can you tell us what thickness the original shaft is?
you used 16mm and installed a new liner. But there are also adapters with 18mm.
Therefore it would be great if you measured the original shaft and gave us this measurement.
Thank you very much, greetings Torsten
Hello Torsten! Thank you for yor comment and thank you for taking the time to watch one of my videos! The shaft of the original anvil has a diameter of 14mm, the new one I am putting in has a shaft diameter of 16mm. The priginal bushing in the tool has these measurements ID=14mm, OD=22mm, H=10mm so in order to fit the new anvil I hammer the old bushing out and in its place I use one with these measurements ID=16mm, OD=22mm, H=10mm. As you can see I do not change the OD and H, as for the ID I go from 14mm to 16mm.
As for the anvils with the 18mm shaft in that case you would need a bushing that has an ID=18mm with the same OD and H. However at the bottom those anvils have a bigger opening at 10mm instead of the 8mm that you need for a proper fit. So if you decide to go the 18mm anvil way you will need a bushing for that bottom opening as well. To narrow it down from 10mm to 8mm.
I hope that helps!
@@BrokeLifeEU
Hey,
Thank you very much for the quick answer and of course for the great video.
I subscribed to your channel straight away 😉
@tda6505 Thank you so much! I hope my future videos will also be interesting to you!
Might come across wrong but were you expecting more power out of it after you changed the end? It’s still the same motor with nothing changed except it takes half inch instead of hex so there’s no power modifications to increase it
It does not come across wrong at all! I was not expecting any power gains. I wanted to show that and also that there was no power loss. My idea behind this mod is to stop braking adaptors.
There will be a power gain if you mainly use 1/2 sockets
ua-cam.com/video/24fjhquDVto/v-deo.htmlsi=ZDd4a1dwzBOmi-0Q
Will this mod work on the first model A1 ??
Many thanks
Unfortunately I don't have an A1 to try this on in. However from the outside they look completely different compared to the B2/B3/C3 so I would say that for the A1 this will not work.
Hello, I want to congratulate you, your work is excellent, and I also want to thank you for sharing. I'm going to buy the parts and change my screwdriver. A hug from Portugal
Thank you so much! Did you see the other video? I have also left links there for a steel bushing! It is just like the original!
@@BrokeLifeEU I saw two videos but I don't know which video you are talking about, could you leave the link for me please? thanks
Absolutely! This is the one - ua-cam.com/video/5DjAPRZ6PWA/v-deo.html
I left a link to the steel bushing in the video description.
@@BrokeLifeEU Oh! Ok, I saw this video. Thank you very much, it's a very good job. May you continue to share your knowledge, it is a treasure. A hug.
Please, based on your experience, can you tell me what the difference is between the PDSSAP 20-LI B3 and the PDSSAP 20-LI C3 models?
This have the same power but no accesory needed???
Absolutely! You only need the bushing and anvil from the links. They cost about 10 to 15 EUR in total. And no more broken adaptors.
Great video my friend!!! What is the difference between PDSSAP 20-Li B3 and PDSSAP 20-Li B2?
Thank you so much! Some differences in the electronics mostly, but that being said I can only speak about the B2 that proceeded the B3. I don't know if the B2 that is being sold now is any different. In terms of measurements everything is the same, but there might be something in the electronics department that is different.
@@BrokeLifeEU Thank you friend for the answer. I think at this point the difference is that the B3 has Smart technology with Bluetooth battery while the b2 does not support it.
RIGHT! I forgot about that too! Sorry!!!
Hi I checked mine and it’s actually the b2 model , looks like the b3 & c3 models , I wonder if if this mod will fit mine ???
Yes, on the B2 all is the same in terms of this mod as in the video!
Awesome I will order the parts now , thanks again
Can you give alternative sellers pls, because the delivery will be at the end of February
Unfortunately I can't say how good the other sellers would be with their products. I have tried these hence why I provided these links. Otherwise if you follow the measurements you will be able to find many more sellers. Again though I must say I have not bought from them and I can not say what the quality would be like.
Hello from Germany, in your description are no more links. Can you post them again?
Hello 🇩🇪! I hope you are having a lovely day!
May I point your attention to this video.
ua-cam.com/video/5DjAPRZ6PWA/v-deo.html
There I convert a C3 model but it's all the same in the end. HOWEVER here I use a steel bushing which is somewhat harder to put in the casing but is way better once you get it in there. It is just like an OEM bushing. As for the anvil on the C3 you may need to somehow remove 1mm off the bottom of the anvil where it meets the impact mechanism of the tool just so when assembled it can move freely. That in some cases must also be done on the B3 however far less frequently.
@@BrokeLifeEU Thanks for the quick and detailed answer.
👍👍🏽👍🏿👍🏼👍🏾👍🏻
@godina77 My pleasure! Let me know if other questions pop up!
Nice job! Where in the EU are you based?
Thank you! I am glad you like it!
Wherever there is a Lidl I am close by! 🌆
@@BrokeLifeEU cool! I live in Sweden and we have a LARGE FB group with people who buy ParkSide tools. :D
@VanDerLaars No wonder I never had money for proper tools until I found Parkside! For the price and warranty they are so good! That is of course for casual DIY use! I hope you enjoy the content here and please feel free to suggest anything at anyime that you are intersted to see! I will try my best to make it in to a proper video!
This modify is plug and play?
Because i had see other tutorials with more work to this adapting 😅 this component are ready to assembly and use?
Plug play
Yes, Plug and play IF you get the anvil and bushing like the ones I specified in the links. These are plug&play if you get other ones you need to machine them. I put the two links so you know what to look for. You could possibly find them even cheaper.
Those tutorials make it more complicated than it should be, if you buy an 18mm diameter anvil you just need to buy a 18mm inner diameter bushing and that's it, no need to buy thicker anvil and then mill it down to 17mm, also you will need one more bushing for anvil bottom hole, to reduce it from 10 to 8mm, 8x10x5mm bushing is key word, no machining no nothing.
Yes, it does look like that! That is why I was looking so much at that type of conversion a while ago and seeing every video had at some point a milling machine in it made me look at different options. Now I had a comment like that on the other video. And I have ordered the parts that you also describe in your comment and I will have a look in to that as well. Just to see if I can do it with just hand tools and not much more.
@@BrokeLifeEU tanks for the ask answer 😉 so i buy this two item and i assembly that like your tutorial? Are you sure?
Sorry for this more question but i have fear for this work because the machine Is new 😖
Argh mine is a A1 and the bushing mentioned for the B3 is way to big :(
PDSSAP A1 correct?
It's a shame that this opportunity was not used to see what's max release torque on bolts with this modification vs original one with adapter, to find out if and how much it means if you put a 1/2 anvil instead of the original one, and what's the maximum of this impact driver/wrench.
I agree! Unfortunately I do not have the facilities to measure that. However if I hypothesise and extrapolate from how the tool behaves at lower Nm before and after the conversion I would say that in regards to power there is not much difference either way. What you gain with this conversion is no more broken adaptors and a shorter tool when using sockets, again because you are not using an adapter. For 10 to 15 EUR you save a lot in the long run, because a proper impact 1/4 to 1/2 adapter is about 10 EUR. However if in the future the channel (me) can support a device or a measurement system to test out this idea I promise to revisit it!
@@BrokeLifeEU Thanks for reply, you can try to find bigger torque wrench and tighten those, or some other bolts to 300-400nm :D and try both of those, real world test are all we want to se, no more broken adaptors is great but I suspect that the one with anvil will perform better because there is no loss of power from bit to socket.
Next I am testing this 20V PDSSAP 1/2 conversion against the new PPDSSA A1 12V 1/2 I will try to incorporate bigger bolts and higher torque numbers for sure! I can't promise I will be able to, however I will try my best! @@EvoDaTiKazem
@@BrokeLifeEUGreat!! You read my mind, I was thinking about that little new 12V impact and is it stronger than this 18V 226nm driver, I think nobody has done that yet.
As soon as Lidl manage to deliver it I will be testing it! No matter rain or shine, day or night! Unfortunately I ordered it and paid for it two weeks ago and still waiting. However I have a feeling it will be with me in a day or two! @@EvoDaTiKazem
You need a hardened bush not a bronze bush because it will not resist in time to the impact force and wear very easly.
I have had a bronze one im my own converted impact B3 model for over a year and have had no issues. I didn't even see signs of wear when I opened it up a couple of months ago. That said I use it on cars about once per week or so. I have also shown the other options in this video. ua-cam.com/video/5DjAPRZ6PWA/v-deo.html&ab_channel=BrokeLifeEU Where I have links for steel bushings. I converted my C3 with the steel bushing - the one in the video.
Hello! Can you send me the link for the adapter? Thanks
The link for the 1/2" correct? Or 1/4" to 1/2" adaptor?
1/4” to 1/2” adapter
@@zoltanmarkovics5155 For 1/4" to 1/2" I use any Makita or Milwaukee impact rated adaptor. I find they last the longest.
You misunderstood me. I would like to convert the machine as you did in the video. I need a link to buy the adapter.
Ah got you! WORX WU278 impact anvil. This is what you need. The cheapest one I can find at the moment is this one. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005588946700.html
But please look around for "Worx WU278 impact anvil" as I am sure a cheaper anvil will be available somewhere!
Would be nicer if the anwill was 10mm shorter
There is somewhat of a way around that. You could get another bushing ID=16mm, OD=22 and L=20 and then machine it so that some of it sticks out from the front and the rest is in the casing. I made a drawing of what it should be like. It's on the community page.
Below average Joe here, this is way harder than it's pictured in your tutorial. First the retaining clip - what a bitch! I had to use two dental tools to push on each end of the clip in opposite directions. Then we have the whacks. I'm baking it in the oven to warm it up to 120 degrees. 300 whacks later. That fucker moved only 1mm. I'm giving up, need to find a hydraulic press.
Sorry you are having issues with this. To be fair it is not the easiest thing to get done in the world. On top of that there are minute differences between units so that might make one unit more difficult to work on than another. I have converted maybe more than 20 already and you are absolutely spot on. The two things you are having trouble with are the most difficult things to do. On top of that in some cases you need to grind down about 1mm off the bottom of the anvil, because otherwise it will not turn freely. Back to the two problems at hand. The first one as I understand you have already solved. So for the bushing the best way to do that is to heat up the casing as much as possible and keep the bushing as cool as possible. You can even put the casing in the fridge and then blast it with a blowtorch or something capable of blasting hot air at it and at a substantial flow. Do that to the outside of the casing so the bushing gets exposed to less heat. After that you insert a socket size 12 or 13mm in most cases and start hammering on the bushing. Another way to do that is to get a bearing puller and use the power from a drill or an impact driver. You can see that option in some of my other videos.
About 05:40 in this video you can see me extracting a bushing with a bearing puller and a socket. ua-cam.com/video/BjxOIai_hqE/v-deo.html
Nothing special about this bearing puller, it cost about €4 and it gets the job done every time!
Also possibly by chance the one in this video was the easiest to get the bushing out of. I have had other units that put up more of a fight.
And when you assemble it. Before you go after the biggest bolt in sight. Try turning the anvil by hand. If you feel any resistance you need to take off 0,5 o even 1mm off the base of the anvil where it meets the impact mechanism. This mostly depends on the anvil that was sent to you and the unit you got from Parkside. But the material can be taken off the anvil with sandpaper, a metal file, a grinder etc...
I hope I was somewhat helpful.
@@BrokeLifeEU 2 smacks with a sledge hammer did the trick :)
@wezzla See! I knew you could do it!
Done! No screws missing, no screws remaining. I call it a success. I bet it took me 3h in total, but if I would do it again, I reckon it would take me less than 30 min.
@@wezzla I am so happy you made it happen! Did you try it out and most importantly does the anvil turn freely by hand? And I bet your second attempt will be about 15 minutes. My first time doing this it took quite a long time. Now I can do it in 5 minutes if I undo the bolts with a tool. 15 minutes by hand. Now that you have made it happen do you think it was difficult or easy?
Too week machine for wheel nuts!
It can undo a 200Nm wheel nut no problem at all! It can do even more, however any normal wheel nut or bolt on a car above 150Nm is not a very good idea.
@@BrokeLifeEU It cant undo my wheel nuts (140 Nm). Crap machine. So I cant see any point of doing the convertion in the video as it wont do it any stronger. I will return the machine ans buy a real one!
Milwaukee Stubby 3/8 is what I am looking in to if I manage to save up for one.
This seems like a suicidal modification. The anvil transfers the axial forces to the gear, the gear to the motor, the motor and the four locking screws on the back.. The anvil may be missing a seeger.. .it will work for a while but it won't be healthy
it's cheep so it's worth to make modification because adapters are expensive and they brake easily.. so 3 adapters cost like a new one.. So if you need a quality you better buy an expensive brand
I have used a converted impact driver in to an impact wrench for over a year and have had no problems whatsoever. For the price even if it gives up now it would have saved me quite a substantial investment.
Объясните этому человеку , что Много смазки ,это не есть хорошо. Момент сразу упадет!!!
Понял!