You are most welcome. The anvil can be turned freely by hand right? Otherwise you need to grind it down a bit from where it meets the impacting mechanism so it can be turned smoothly by hand.
@@BrokeLifeEU I just feel the grease and it feels buttersmooth."Shaft" play: Axial is there bit it feels more like I push the whole inner parts away. Radial is nearly or it feels like zero but I can see that the gap in the bearing becomes bigger if I push the anvil in one direction. I did nothing upfront. ua-cam.com/users/shortsNcNx_8NPn2g
You have done a fantastic job! I would be worried had there been no play at all. It looks absolutely spot on! Have you tried it or not yet? I am eager to know what you think of it.
@@BrokeLifeEU Thanks a lot. The only reason that this was possible is your video :) So far there was a dry run only. I checked if the tool is working with the help of a vice and a screw. Until now it feels like it's coming like this from factory. I plan to use the impact driver the next days for some serious work. I'm pretty sure it will work good.
Thanks for the great video. I have the C3 version. Instead of the original steel sliding bearing, I installed a needle bearing, but after assembly there is quite a lot of play in it, about 0.5 mm. Such a large backlash in the bearing of the shaft is not good and over time there would probably be a risk of damage to the striking mechanism. So I ordered brass and also steel bearing, and I am waiting for delivery. I will install the one that will have the smallest clearance in the shaft. So I don't recommend using a needle bearing. Sincerely.
You are welcome! I am sorry it did not work out the way you wanted it to! Please be aware that after you assemble it you need to try turning the anvil by hand. It should move freely with no resistance. If there is resistance you need to take away about 1mm and no more from the bottom of the anvil where it meets the impacting mechanism in the tool casing.
Also in the end I end up using the linked steel bushing for all the conversions that I make. It just looks and feels right. There have been no issues at all. I also did use a roller bearing in one conversion. A friend insisted they wanted that. So far so god no problems have occurred. However there was no significant play between the bearing and anvil in the case I speak of. In the end I do stand by what I said I am not a fan of the roller bearing at all.
I just did this mod, however only with a new 8ah smart battery I can loosen wheel nuts. With an 3 year old 4ah (non smart) battery it wont loosen. Torqued to 140nm with CR-MO sockets. Not sure if my batterys are bad. The 8ah surely sounds like it spins faster then the 4ah
@@BrokeLifeEU maybe 2 to 3 seconds. Must say the anvil wasn't as easy to slide into the bearing as your video. And I couldnt even turn it by hand. After resasembly the 'turret' was kinda warm to the touch. So I guess it was rubbing. Now it turns freely though..
Hello! Thank you for the kind comment! unfortunately regarding the PASSP this conversion is not possible. The anvil used in that is completely different to anything else with a 1/2" and 1/4" combo.
Ive done the conversion on my B3 with the 16mm combo anvil. used a rollerbearing, initial impression so far is good, compared to the steel/brass bushings its got a bit more play but the rollers have alot less friction. Not too worried about it because in theory you shouldnt have sideforces on the anvil worst case bushing is easily changed out.
yeah im back to healthy, thank you. ive seen someone do the combo anvil upgrade on the 12v impact wrench, I wonder if the the 12v anvil fits into the 20v to get a shorter anvil. Sadly I cant find the conversion again to find what they did to fit it@@BrokeLifeEU
They are very different. The 12V anvil is I believe at 17 or 18mm of diameter. I have it somewhere so will see if I find it for a precise measurement. The opening at the bottom is 8mm so that would fit. However it might end up being a bit too short. @@LordFoxes
Muy buen trabajo!!! Yo he convertido mi B2. No he retirado los circlips del eje original. He desmontado la pieza completa, junto convel casquillo original.
I ja planiram C3, samo je rasprodata onlajn u DE. Narucicu sa Alija 16 mm combo i mesingani lezaj, pa cemo da vidimo. Drago mi je da pricamo na nasem :-)
Ne mogu ga pronaći na LIDL.DE. Upravu si. Zadnji put kada sam ga vidio još uvijek je bio B3 na stranici. Sada možda idu na C3. Šteta što sam osjetio da je B3 jači. Zadovoljstvo je razgovarati sa svima vama!
@@BrokeLifeEU Da, šteta što naredni model često bude lošiji, držao sam C3 u ruci, u poređenju sa B3 izrada mu je mnogo lošija, inače brzo će on ponovo biti za naručivanje onlajn.
Yes, I also have a video on the 3/8“. Have a look, because it is a very specific conversion. Links are also in the video description. ua-cam.com/video/0Ck2sCECUGo/v-deo.html
Salut, am folosit vaselina pe baza de cupru cu rezistenta la temperatura de peste 1000 grade si bucșa cu grafit, am aplicat si pe ea putina vaselina, o sa verific in timp daca este ok. Multumesc mult pentru explicatii. 👍
Nice video! Does the 18mm shaft also have a magnet for bits inside? For a small 12V drill. When you remove the chuck for drills, the original shaft for bits does not have a magnet inside. Bits fall out every time. It's almost useless.
Hello! Yes it does have a magnet inside, although with all that impacting it will fall out at some point and needs to be glued back in place with proper glue. I know about the small 12V drills all the magnests fell out of mine too, I just glued some replacements one back in there, however I used proper glue and not the cheap type they used when making these.
@@BrokeLifeEUHi, are you talking about the hex bit holder that’s on 12V drills with removable chuck? I’ve been wondering how I can make it more magnetic, as the bit holder has a stronger magnet and when changing bits, I just pull the bit holder from the shaft instead of the bit of the holder.
@ Hi! I was talking about the magnet in the 1/2” 1/4” combo anvil. Although those magnets Parkside use in the drills are some off the weakest ever! I just don’t bother anymore I put the chuck and the bit holder in the chuck. Otherwise I pull out the bit holder more often than just the bit.
@@BrokeLifeEU Ah yes an option too, but I really like the shorter form factor without the chuck, as it helps me start screws straighter. I am considering just using 2 inch power bits, but they are usually not magnetic. Have you had any ideas to improve the magnet on the shaft perhaps?
@hotwheels1997 Unfortunately not, I just live with the pain when I have to use it as a shorter versuon. Otherwise I stick with the chuck. I would really love it if they made just a screwdriver in the body of the drill. Just Milwaukee style. I mostly use mine for car and bike work so something like that would be great if they made it. Milwaukee M12 cordless screwdriver if you are wondering what I am on about.
@@BrokeLifeEU hiya i wanted to thank you for that :) also i have done the conversion by now and i have to say i am super satisfied, you def earned a sub, keep up the great work!
@@lorenaswift Thank you so much! Does the anvil turn freely by hand for about 1/2 a turn? If not you need to grind the bottom of it just a bit to make it fit right. The C3 it turns out needs a bit more attention in some cases.
@@BrokeLifeEU it does turn around 1/4th but the anvil seems to turn well and the bearing was also a perfect fit (spins freely) without any machining needed, the tool sounds healthy. I also did a 200nm lugnut test which worked well, i could send you a video if you have like instagram or a mail i can reach you on
Yup, also an option, however the idea I have is to do it as easily as possible. And that is why I give options that require as little tooling as possible.
The original has an inside diameter of 14mm, however the diameter of the new anvil is 16mm so a new bushing which can accommodate that new diameter is needed.
Both work but the 8Ah I find a bit too heavy for this tool. The 4Ah is fine for me. I have both 4Ah and 8ah batteries and I always go for the 4Ah when it is charged and ready to go. I reaxh for the 8Ah only when the 4Ah ones are not in the picture.
Myslím, že je nejlepší použít kovadlinu Worx WU278 a ocelové pouzdro 22x16x10. Také pokud se jedná o C3, základna kovadliny musí být zbroušena od 6 mm do 5 mm.
Salutare, B3-ul cu conversie crezi ca e suficient de puternica cat sa desfaca piulita axului de la o roata? Te intreb pentru ca am vazut alte clipuri in care desafacea piulita de la o Honda, dar nu stiu cat de real este. Multumesc!
Salutare! Am văzut și videoclipul cu Honda. Cu B3 cred ca se poate. Este mult mai puternic decât PASSK A1/B2. 250-300 Nm nu sunt o problemă pentru asta.
Just did the modification by your steps and parts and after I assemble everything the anvil barely moves and it overheats as its moving freely. Do i have to grind the bottom of the anvil to make it work?
Yes, not good for the gesrbox if there is o play! Try and grind it down by 1mm it turns out that they send different anvils, some are a straight swap and some need to be ground down a bit.
@@BrokeLifeEU Ive got a C3 today and wanted to convert it, apparently the C3 has a different anvil then the B3. C3 anvil thickness is 4.9mm, the WU278 anvil is 5.9. Die wu278 anvil fits perfectly fine in the B3 though.( I already got a converted B3 in which that specific anvil has been installed just fine previously, wanted 2nd one so I bought a C3)
I like the look of it. 😂 And I work on cars mainly so I don't need the 1/4" hex opening. For fasteners like that I use a drill driver or ratchet, because this impact is too powerful.
For sure you need some grease. Even moreso if you are going with the steel bushing. At least where the anvil will meet the new bushing as there is no chance of leftover grease these. If you are going with the brass self lubricationg option I still don‘t trust it fully so even for that I do add some grease. As fo the copper option I can‘t say I have only been using the lithium grease that I show in the video and as I have no experience with any other grease it would be just a guess.
Hello, thank you very much for your instructions! I also did the conversion. But I have a question. After assembly, the Shaft Anvil is stiff (hardly turning) when I try to turn it by hand. But when I press the button it works. How should it be? Should the Shaft Anvil be easy to rotate by hand? Thanks for the help! 😌
Thank you for asking! So in this case you need to remove about 1mm from the base of the anvil where it meets the hammer of the tool. Then it should turn freely. It should turn by hand otherwise if it is hard to turn it is causing more stress to the inpact mecahnism. You can remove the extra 1mm with sandpaper and some substantial effort or grind it down on a bench geinder or so. Just make sure to be really catefzl when doing so and remove material evenly! As it comes the base of the anvil is 6mm and you will need to get it down to 5mm. On most tools it is ok to stay at 6, but on some like in your case 5 is the number to go for. I hope I managed to explain it. Let me know and thank you for watching the video!
@@BrokeLifeEU Many thanks for the quick response! Simply great!!🙏🏽👍🏽 Maybe I hit the bushing too deep into the housing. When I move the Shaft Anvil, you notice that it rubs against this white plastic ring that sits in the housing. Otherwise I remove 1mm from the shaft base. I will let you know 😉
@alexs.1954 Rubbing against the white plastic is fine. Once you remove the 1mm will be just fine! It is very difficult to hit the new bushing in too far. Which bushing did you go with?
@@BrokeLifeEU Ah ok, then it's normal with the white plastic ring. 😌 But what still seems strange to me: The anvil can be turned very easily in its housing ("front body"😄) when removed. But if I install it into the overall housing and screw everything tight, then the anvil turns very slowly or hardly by hand at all. It's as if too much pressure is being exerted on the front body by the entire housing. Very strange. Hopefully I explained it in an understandable way. 😁 I used the following parts: -16mm shaft anvil with 1/4” hex opening and 1\2” square drive -10x16x22 graphite self-lubricating brass bushing
@@alexs.1954 I understand you fully and now I am 100% certain that the 1mm I told you about is the problem. Once you get rid of it all will be we good! The anvil is made from hardened metal so it is a bit of a task to remove the 1mm, but just keep at it and you will see it is worth it!
@@BrokeLifeEU Thank you! I found one on Temu witch has 18mm diameter, 8mm hole and it's without hex, witch i like, but didn't found no bushing, to have everithing from the same place. I ordered from Aliexpress the 16mm anvil and bushing from your first video, but i don't like the non original look.
Feel free to share a link. It is something that I have not seen so it may help someone out if they are looking for that precise option. In the links I have shared in the video description you can find a 18x22x10 bushing which can replace the original without too much hassle and then you'll be good to go. However the bottom part of the anvil is also important. From end to end it should be 37.5mm. This is the let's call it butterfly part where the hammer hits the anvil.
I got a C3 and did this with 16mm anvil. From looking inside it I noticed the original anvil is really thin on the hammers and I'm thinking withe the new beefy 16mm anvil it will have comparable performance to the b3
It's basically the same tool from the outside. The B3 and C3 have different manufacturers. They both say Parkside on the side, however the B3 is made by Kompernaß and the C3 by Grizzly tools.@@Alex.P_10
@@BrokeLifeEU I dont think so, I have A1, B2, B3, C3 all converted to 1/2 with 1/4hex and since I have converted C3 I didnt have torque wrench more than 400Nm, but if I try to loose 400Nm, C3 is fastest with loosening time
I did also come across a very tight bushing. Tighter than usual. I managed to pull it out in the end but it took a lot of effort. I put the entire assembly in the freezer and then blasted it with a flame as I took it out. It was still a battle. I got it out in the end with no damage to the casing. But if you don't feel comfortable with it I would advise not to try it or to give it to someone with a hydraulic press.
@@BrokeLifeEU Thank you for your answer. So, the problem was not about the heat. I beat it like crazy with no result. Yes, I think I need a hydraulic press.
Put it in the Freezer for half an hour than used a heat Gun for some moments. Instead of using a ruber Hammer - thats where I struggled too - I used a normal one. 3 or 4 brave Hits and done. 😅
No! By no means. So in some cases that will occur when the base of the anvil is too thick. On the older B3 model you could get away without doing anything to the base of the anvil. On the C3 it looks like it is a 50-50 shot. In order to fix this you need sandpaper and elbow grease or a bench grinder. You need to remove 1mm of material from the bottom of the anvil - that is the base where it meets the impact mechanism of the tool. After you have done that assemble again and it will turn freely. I got some anvils from Aliexpress last week and that part I am talking about was 6mm on one, 6.5 on another and nearly 7 on a third. This is the first time I see such a thing. In any case all can and will be used after I reduce that part of the anvil to 5mm. I am here if any other questions arise. Also you should not use it when it is not turning freely! You should get this done and then it will be excellent, but if it is not turning freely it is stressing the gears. This is the primary reason you may be experiencing this issue. Another option is that the new bushing is not as far in to the casing as it needs to be. However my bet is on the first scenario.
@@BrokeLifeEU yep, just took it out and this one seems to be about 6.5mm thick... time to sand it down! its gonna take a while but i hope its worth it. thank you very much!
Sorry to hear. The quality on these is getting worse by the day… if you can get it down to the 5 mark that is the target. It is worth it in the end it is a very nice combo to have. Also if you don‘t mind me asking which bushing did you go for?
@@BrokeLifeEU i went for the self lubricating one, fit pretty nicely and only needed a couple taps after taking it out of the freezer overnight. i just hope this sanding wont take ages 🤣
@SpinningLocusts The steel one is harder to get in to the casing but takes quite a lot more abuse than the brass one. Keep that in mind and maybe order one for the future as the self lubricating one at some point will wear out. The steel one you will never need to worry about. As I said the negative side is the steel one is difficult to get on to that casing.
It depends, some I edit on my phone, others I do on MovieMaker. It is a disappointing answer I know, however I don't know how to work the more powerful programmes.
@BrokeLifeEU Thank you, but i know my videos are far away from yours. I had no intention to make a channel, but you inspired me and maybe i will invest some time to make more quality videos. Photography is my passion, but tools and videos started to grow on me...anyway your videos are great, your English is great...youtube is made to suit you! English is your native language?
You are doing an amazing job! Truly I have seen what you are doing and you are providing great content. Mine is more on the let's have fun side of things, whereas you took those impacts to their limits! I am really honoured you said that about the inspiration, but I can't take any credit for that! You had it in you and you just needed to see someone else starting from 0. It is scary for me too seeing channels with so many subscribers. I know I will never be like them. However I have a full time job and occupation so I am just here to have some fun and share it with as many people would like to join in. Looking at it like that it does not feel like a task or something to go after and conquer. So I am really enjoying my experience so far. And that is above all thanks to nice and kind people like you! Taking the time to comment and share! I would love it if we manage to grow our channels together! I wholeheartedly wish you all the best! May you accomplish all the goals you set for yourself! I am sure you can produce lots of great content! As you have maybe seen English is not a "must" for UA-cam. Many people have great content in other languages. In fact for me English is my third language. And at the moment the one I use the least. P.S. I am sure you can do this! When you reach 10Mil subscribers I will be waiting for my private jet that you have arranged to pick me up and we will do a collaboration video! Hopefully with some budget tools! 😂
You are welcome! I don't think the diameter will contribute to the end performance in any meaningful way. So whichever one you fancy should be fine. However as I said one is a lot easier to do and a bit more expensive, however the other option (18mm) could turn out to be a lot more work and there are more parts (3 instead of 2) that you need in order to make the conversion work.
It is in fact more robust. I never had the A1 and I have never done this mod on the A1. Although I have come across some measurements regarding an A1 PDSSAP and the 1/2" anvil conversion. If you are interested I can't make a video on them, however I can try and upload them on the community page. @@PetAd90
Guten Abend! Entschuldigung für die späte Antwort. Ich kann die Nachrichten nur sehen, wenn ich nach Hause komme. Ich bin derzeit nicht in Deutschland ansässig. Aber wie kann ich helfen?
If you go with the 16mm anvil which I recommend, you will need to grind the base of it down from 6+mm to 5mm. The steel bushing 16x22x10 is a direct fit. And that is all you need for a 1/2 anvil conversion.
@valentinvali3307 I think I did post the cheapest possible links at the time. However depending on your country you need to look around. All you need is an anvil for a Worx WU278 and a steel bushing ID=16 OD=22 H=10mm.
Hello! The original shaft of the original anvil has a diameter of 14mm. So the original bushing has an inside diameter of 14mm. I am rounding these up the nearest mm. Otherwise the shaft would be something like 13.95mm I guess.
@@BrokeLifeEU What battery do you suggest with this tool? Is the 2Ah enough? Driver is 60€, 2Ah battery is 20€ 4Ah 40€, 2A charger 15€ 4,5A charger 25€
@khFokke1895 The 2Ah is too weak for this tool I think. The 4Ah is the best choice, you get decent power and the weight is not too bad. But the 2Ah is not a good choice.
@@BrokeLifeEU Got the impact today and ordered the anvil. The impact drivers looks and smells cheap 😅 but its pretty strong, I wonder how long will it last I will make my own hardened steel bushing, I think it's a better choice than bronze in this case. Dirt will get in it and eat the bronze
The steel bushing is a really good idea! Also no need to make it I hve a link for a ready one. About €4 22x16x10mm it is very solid and no issues with it at all!
I did the conversion a few days ago, used the 16 mm Worx anvil and bushing, i dont know if i got unlucky, but at first it was almost impossible to fit any socket, tried old ones, new ones, diffrent makes, but no. So i tried to sand it down on the ring and tip, with small progress. So i dicided to pull out the rubber o-ring behind the locking-ring on the anvil, now most sockets fit although not perfect. However, i have big sideways play in the anvil, much more then my other 1/2" impacts! Not sure if o got unlucky or this is whats to be expected? 🙁 Do you have some similar experiences?
I think they sent you a defective one or at least not a very good specimen. At first they can be a bit difficult to put a socket on, however after the 4-5 socket they start fitting very nicely. They are a snug fit so they need some pressure to go in, but that meany they won't come off easily when you don't want them to. However I have made about 10 of these for friends and they never needed any sanding or grinding. Nor have they told me after that they had any problems of this sort. It could also be a problem with the )-ring which is under the metal retaining pin at the top of the anvil. You can check that too and make sure it is a good fit and not too loose.
@@BrokeLifeEU I think i have to order another kit 😂 I removed the rubber o-ring, it was the only way to be able to fit a socket, still hard to remove the socket but easier to put on. Ive dome it about 40-50 times at first, totally exhausted 😂 Really hard! Oh well, i guess i just have to order a new kit ^^ But the massive play between the anvil and the bushing is a concern for me
They have deffinately sent you a defective anvil. In all the ones I have assembled there is minimal play between the anvil and bushing. There can‘t be no play, because you need a lot of space but the play should not be substantial. Have you seen the links for the steel bushings? They are very nice!
@@BrokeLifeEU I will have a look! Because the bushing i recived must be defect of some kind 😂 Its a shame, i was so dissapointet when i could wiggle it sideways 😂 I will order and give it a try! Thanks! 😊
I think it should be fine. I only ever used this one since I bought it. My other option at the time was graphite, however what said it was only good for up to 60 degrees and I felt that was a bit too low. However I later discovered some people were using the graphite grease with no issues. So it would depend on your usage of the tool. I went with the highest temp rated I could find just to be extra sure. As just a guess I would say 120 degree grease should be more than good enough if not for continual heavy use.
Very close. B3 is just a little bit more powerful at max settings when I tested them together. Otherwise no real noticeable difference. However I do prefer the mode selection switch on the B3 as for me it is easier to press and read.
Unfortunately I don‘t have any options yet…I am saving up for one and then I‘ll see if there is a good ready to convert option out there. The internals look quite different from the outside.
@@BrokeLifeEUi have an A1 and the hole/outer diameter for the bushing is around 19mm. Im thinking i will drill the original bushing to 16mm so it will fit the new anvil
@@BrokeLifeEU When I said "anything", I meant DeWalt, Hilti, Milwaukee, Festool, Berner, Makita, Metabo, Wurth, even Bosch, although not my cup of tea. I'm not a fan of the Milwaukee battery latch system either, really hard to remove. I'll deal with that though.
Have you used the 1300 NM Parkside impact wrench? I have it, currently in its second year of use, mainly for changing out car wheels. It's a bit heavy, but for it's size and torque, what else can you get for around 130 Euro bare tool? DeWalt's are great, but maybe a battery and a charger costs more than the Parkside, right?
I did the coversation with the 16mm anvil and the steel bushing. It's working as it should be. Thanks a lot for the video ❤
You are most welcome. The anvil can be turned freely by hand right? Otherwise you need to grind it down a bit from where it meets the impacting mechanism so it can be turned smoothly by hand.
@@BrokeLifeEU I just feel the grease and it feels buttersmooth."Shaft" play: Axial is there bit it feels more like I push the whole inner parts away. Radial is nearly or it feels like zero but I can see that the gap in the bearing becomes bigger if I push the anvil in one direction. I did nothing upfront.
ua-cam.com/users/shortsNcNx_8NPn2g
You have done a fantastic job! I would be worried had there been no play at all. It looks absolutely spot on! Have you tried it or not yet? I am eager to know what you think of it.
@@BrokeLifeEU Thanks a lot. The only reason that this was possible is your video :) So far there was a dry run only. I checked if the tool is working with the help of a vice and a screw. Until now it feels like it's coming like this from factory. I plan to use the impact driver the next days for some serious work. I'm pretty sure it will work good.
@@PeterAttatürk This is so nice to hear! Thank you so much! I hope it will do everything you ask of it and even more!
Thanks for the great video. I have the C3 version. Instead of the original steel sliding bearing, I installed a needle bearing, but after assembly there is quite a lot of play in it, about 0.5 mm. Such a large backlash in the bearing of the shaft is not good and over time there would probably be a risk of damage to the striking mechanism. So I ordered
brass and also steel bearing, and I am waiting for delivery. I will install the one that will have the smallest clearance in the shaft. So I don't recommend using a needle bearing. Sincerely.
You are welcome! I am sorry it did not work out the way you wanted it to! Please be aware that after you assemble it you need to try turning the anvil by hand. It should move freely with no resistance. If there is resistance you need to take away about 1mm and no more from the bottom of the anvil where it meets the impacting mechanism in the tool casing.
Also in the end I end up using the linked steel bushing for all the conversions that I make. It just looks and feels right. There have been no issues at all. I also did use a roller bearing in one conversion. A friend insisted they wanted that. So far so god no problems have occurred. However there was no significant play between the bearing and anvil in the case I speak of. In the end I do stand by what I said I am not a fan of the roller bearing at all.
I just did this mod, however only with a new 8ah smart battery I can loosen wheel nuts. With an 3 year old 4ah (non smart) battery it wont loosen. Torqued to 140nm with CR-MO sockets. Not sure if my batterys are bad. The 8ah surely sounds like it spins faster then the 4ah
Have you tried with a new 4ah. It should have no problem at all with a 4ah at 140Nm
@@BrokeLifeEU ill need to buy one first haha.
@weerdonerd does it require a lot of effort with the 8ah?
@@BrokeLifeEU maybe 2 to 3 seconds. Must say the anvil wasn't as easy to slide into the bearing as your video. And I couldnt even turn it by hand. After resasembly the 'turret' was kinda warm to the touch. So I guess it was rubbing. Now it turns freely though..
You did add some grease right?
Hi and thank you for the great video. I have the big PASSP with 1/2. Can i chance it to 1/2 with integrated hex?
Hello! Thank you for the kind comment! unfortunately regarding the PASSP this conversion is not possible. The anvil used in that is completely different to anything else with a 1/2" and 1/4" combo.
Thank you. Great video😊
Thank you for your kind comment! It means a lot! I am loving your channel and videos!
Ive done the conversion on my B3 with the 16mm combo anvil.
used a rollerbearing, initial impression so far is good, compared to the steel/brass bushings its got a bit more play but the rollers have alot less friction.
Not too worried about it because in theory you shouldnt have sideforces on the anvil worst case bushing is easily changed out.
How long have you used it since the conversion?
Sadly not alot, a bit around the car but caught covid so I couldnt use it the last 3 weeks 😅@@BrokeLifeEU
Sorry to hear that! I hope you are feeling better now!
yeah im back to healthy, thank you.
ive seen someone do the combo anvil upgrade on the 12v impact wrench, I wonder if the the 12v anvil fits into the 20v to get a shorter anvil.
Sadly I cant find the conversion again to find what they did to fit it@@BrokeLifeEU
They are very different. The 12V anvil is I believe at 17 or 18mm of diameter. I have it somewhere so will see if I find it for a precise measurement. The opening at the bottom is 8mm so that would fit. However it might end up being a bit too short. @@LordFoxes
Muy buen trabajo!!!
Yo he convertido mi B2.
No he retirado los circlips del eje original. He desmontado la pieza completa, junto convel casquillo original.
¡Muchas gracias! ¡Espero que estés disfrutando de tu herramienta!
Como lo has hecho? Me interesa mucho
Awesome vid friend!
Thank you so much! There is an even better one coming soon!
Одлично, потпуно све објашњено, чекам испоруку делова и радим преправку са 18мм прихватом и 20мм чауром, која укључује струг.
Надам се да ће делови стићи ускоро! За неке ствари које сам наручио било је потребно 3 месеца да стигну, а неке уопште нису стигле!
I ja planiram C3, samo je rasprodata onlajn u DE.
Narucicu sa Alija 16 mm combo i mesingani lezaj, pa cemo da vidimo.
Drago mi je da pricamo na nasem :-)
Ne mogu ga pronaći na LIDL.DE. Upravu si. Zadnji put kada sam ga vidio još uvijek je bio B3 na stranici. Sada možda idu na C3. Šteta što sam osjetio da je B3 jači.
Zadovoljstvo je razgovarati sa svima vama!
@@BrokeLifeEU Da, šteta što naredni model često bude lošiji, držao sam C3 u ruci, u poređenju sa B3 izrada mu je mnogo lošija, inače brzo će on ponovo biti za naručivanje onlajn.
Nažalost, svaki sljedeći model je jeftiniji za izradu i proizvodnju kako bi se zaradio više novca za Lidl. Na kraju lošiji alati za nas.
Hi, thank you for the video, very helpful.
Do you happen to have a link for a 3/8 anvil too?
Thanks
Yes, I also have a video on the 3/8“. Have a look, because it is a very specific conversion. Links are also in the video description. ua-cam.com/video/0Ck2sCECUGo/v-deo.html
Salut, am folosit vaselina pe baza de cupru cu rezistenta la temperatura de peste 1000 grade si bucșa cu grafit, am aplicat si pe ea putina vaselina, o sa verific in timp daca este ok. Multumesc mult pentru explicatii. 👍
Sper să vă placă instrumentul dvs.! Vă mulțumim pentru comentariu și pentru timpul acordat!
Nice video!
Does the 18mm shaft also have a magnet for bits inside?
For a small 12V drill. When you remove the chuck for drills, the original shaft for bits does not have a magnet inside. Bits fall out every time. It's almost useless.
Hello! Yes it does have a magnet inside, although with all that impacting it will fall out at some point and needs to be glued back in place with proper glue. I know about the small 12V drills all the magnests fell out of mine too, I just glued some replacements one back in there, however I used proper glue and not the cheap type they used when making these.
@@BrokeLifeEUHi, are you talking about the hex bit holder that’s on 12V drills with removable chuck? I’ve been wondering how I can make it more magnetic, as the bit holder has a stronger magnet and when changing bits, I just pull the bit holder from the shaft instead of the bit of the holder.
@ Hi! I was talking about the magnet in the 1/2” 1/4” combo anvil. Although those magnets Parkside use in the drills are some off the weakest ever! I just don’t bother anymore I put the chuck and the bit holder in the chuck. Otherwise I pull out the bit holder more often than just the bit.
@@BrokeLifeEU Ah yes an option too, but I really like the shorter form factor without the chuck, as it helps me start screws straighter. I am considering just using 2 inch power bits, but they are usually not magnetic. Have you had any ideas to improve the magnet on the shaft perhaps?
@hotwheels1997 Unfortunately not, I just live with the pain when I have to use it as a shorter versuon. Otherwise I stick with the chuck. I would really love it if they made just a screwdriver in the body of the drill. Just Milwaukee style. I mostly use mine for car and bike work so something like that would be great if they made it. Milwaukee M12 cordless screwdriver if you are wondering what I am on about.
hi, thank you so much for the video's, any chance you could update the links to working one's?? :)
DONE! Give it a go now. 😉
@@BrokeLifeEU hiya i wanted to thank you for that :) also i have done the conversion by now and i have to say i am super satisfied, you def earned a sub, keep up the great work!
@@lorenaswift Thank you so much! Does the anvil turn freely by hand for about 1/2 a turn? If not you need to grind the bottom of it just a bit to make it fit right. The C3 it turns out needs a bit more attention in some cases.
@@BrokeLifeEU it does turn around 1/4th but the anvil seems to turn well and the bearing was also a perfect fit (spins freely) without any machining needed, the tool sounds healthy. I also did a 200nm lugnut test which worked well, i could send you a video if you have like instagram or a mail i can reach you on
@lorenaswift @brokelifeeu is my instagram. I have the same profile picture as I do here. I would love to see your work!
i had to thin down 16mm anvil blades thicknes to fit in gearbox
Yup, also an option, however the idea I have is to do it as easily as possible. And that is why I give options that require as little tooling as possible.
Hi I wanted to ask you why you also changed the bushing? the old one didn't fit?
The original has an inside diameter of 14mm, however the diameter of the new anvil is 16mm so a new bushing which can accommodate that new diameter is needed.
@@BrokeLifeEU thanks
I buy the B3 version and I'm asking if I have to buy the 4ah or 8ah smart battery ?
Both work but the 8Ah I find a bit too heavy for this tool. The 4Ah is fine for me. I have both 4Ah and 8ah batteries and I always go for the 4Ah when it is charged and ready to go. I reaxh for the 8Ah only when the 4Ah ones are not in the picture.
That said you will get a lot more runtime and a bit more power out of the 8Ah.
@@BrokeLifeEU I take note, thanks you !
@charlou9671 You are welcome! 😉
Ahoj, mám c3 a kterou přesně kovadlinu na výměnu a který kroužek, děkuji
Myslím, že je nejlepší použít kovadlinu Worx WU278 a ocelové pouzdro 22x16x10. Také pokud se jedná o C3, základna kovadliny musí být zbroušena od 6 mm do 5 mm.
Díky za odpověď,a jiná kovadlina co přesně pasuje asi k dostání není, že?
@@zdenek0909 Ne, ostatní možnosti vyžadují hodně práce a jsou velmi drahé.
@@zdenek0909 www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005414399400.html 16x22x10
www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006435352852.html
Salutare, B3-ul cu conversie crezi ca e suficient de puternica cat sa desfaca piulita axului de la o roata? Te intreb pentru ca am vazut alte clipuri in care desafacea piulita de la o Honda, dar nu stiu cat de real este. Multumesc!
Salutare! Am văzut și videoclipul cu Honda. Cu B3 cred ca se poate. Este mult mai puternic decât PASSK A1/B2. 250-300 Nm nu sunt o problemă pentru asta.
@@BrokeLifeEU Bine, o sa incerc si eu sa fac conversia si revin cu update. Mersii mult!!
Vă mulțumim că sunteți aici! Am realizat un video cu instrucțiuni complete despre asta. Il gasesti pe canal.
Just did the modification by your steps and parts and after I assemble everything the anvil barely moves and it overheats as its moving freely. Do i have to grind the bottom of the anvil to make it work?
Yes, not good for the gesrbox if there is o play! Try and grind it down by 1mm it turns out that they send different anvils, some are a straight swap and some need to be ground down a bit.
@@BrokeLifeEU thank you brother always helpful!
@SkillfulChannel Happy to help and I hope you can get it done soon so you can test it and tell me what you think.
@@BrokeLifeEU Ive got a C3 today and wanted to convert it, apparently the C3 has a different anvil then the B3. C3 anvil thickness is 4.9mm, the WU278 anvil is 5.9.
Die wu278 anvil fits perfectly fine in the B3 though.( I already got a converted B3 in which that specific anvil has been installed just fine previously, wanted 2nd one so I bought a C3)
@@LordFoxes 1mm should be easy to take away with some sandpaper I think or a grinder if you want it done quikly.
I'm curious why would you keep only the 1/2 instead of the anvil with 1/4 in the middle? 😅
I like the look of it. 😂 And I work on cars mainly so I don't need the 1/4" hex opening. For fasteners like that I use a drill driver or ratchet, because this impact is too powerful.
Can I use copper grease? Do I need grease at all? Cannot find the grease you recommend.
For sure you need some grease. Even moreso if you are going with the steel bushing. At least where the anvil will meet the new bushing as there is no chance of leftover grease these. If you are going with the brass self lubricationg option I still don‘t trust it fully so even for that I do add some grease. As fo the copper option I can‘t say I have only been using the lithium grease that I show in the video and as I have no experience with any other grease it would be just a guess.
Hello, thank you very much for your instructions! I also did the conversion. But I have a question. After assembly, the Shaft Anvil is stiff (hardly turning) when I try to turn it by hand. But when I press the button it works. How should it be? Should the Shaft Anvil be easy to rotate by hand? Thanks for the help! 😌
Thank you for asking! So in this case you need to remove about 1mm from the base of the anvil where it meets the hammer of the tool. Then it should turn freely. It should turn by hand otherwise if it is hard to turn it is causing more stress to the inpact mecahnism. You can remove the extra 1mm with sandpaper and some substantial effort or grind it down on a bench geinder or so. Just make sure to be really catefzl when doing so and remove material evenly! As it comes the base of the anvil is 6mm and you will need to get it down to 5mm. On most tools it is ok to stay at 6, but on some like in your case 5 is the number to go for. I hope I managed to explain it. Let me know and thank you for watching the video!
@@BrokeLifeEU Many thanks for the quick response! Simply great!!🙏🏽👍🏽 Maybe I hit the bushing too deep into the housing. When I move the Shaft Anvil, you notice that it rubs against this white plastic ring that sits in the housing. Otherwise I remove 1mm from the shaft base. I will let you know 😉
@alexs.1954 Rubbing against the white plastic is fine. Once you remove the 1mm will be just fine! It is very difficult to hit the new bushing in too far. Which bushing did you go with?
@@BrokeLifeEU Ah ok, then it's normal with the white plastic ring. 😌
But what still seems strange to me: The anvil can be turned very easily in its housing ("front body"😄) when removed. But if I install it into the overall housing and screw everything tight, then the anvil turns very slowly or hardly by hand at all. It's as if too much pressure is being exerted on the front body by the entire housing. Very strange. Hopefully I explained it in an understandable way. 😁
I used the following parts:
-16mm shaft anvil with 1/4” hex opening and 1\2” square drive
-10x16x22 graphite self-lubricating brass bushing
@@alexs.1954 I understand you fully and now I am 100% certain that the 1mm I told you about is the problem. Once you get rid of it all will be we good! The anvil is made from hardened metal so it is a bit of a task to remove the 1mm, but just keep at it and you will see it is worth it!
What is the diameter of the original Parkside anvil? If you use 18mm anvil, doesn't fit to the Parkside bushing? Thank you!
The original 1/4" hex anvil has a shaft diameter of 14mm. So no matter which way you go you will need a new bushing.
@@BrokeLifeEU Thank you! I found one on Temu witch has 18mm diameter, 8mm hole and it's without hex, witch i like, but didn't found no bushing, to have everithing from the same place. I ordered from Aliexpress the 16mm anvil and bushing from your first video, but i don't like the non original look.
Feel free to share a link. It is something that I have not seen so it may help someone out if they are looking for that precise option. In the links I have shared in the video description you can find a 18x22x10 bushing which can replace the original without too much hassle and then you'll be good to go. However the bottom part of the anvil is also important. From end to end it should be 37.5mm. This is the let's call it butterfly part where the hammer hits the anvil.
I got a C3 and did this with 16mm anvil. From looking inside it I noticed the original anvil is really thin on the hammers and I'm thinking withe the new beefy 16mm anvil it will have comparable performance to the b3
I'd say it's still weaker than the 1/2" converted B3. Not by a lot, but by feeling it just feels a bit weaker.
@@BrokeLifeEU Yeah could be, I've never held a B3 I was just surprised how thin the hammers/dogs were really thin and thought it could be reason.
It's basically the same tool from the outside. The B3 and C3 have different manufacturers. They both say Parkside on the side, however the B3 is made by Kompernaß and the C3 by Grizzly tools.@@Alex.P_10
@@BrokeLifeEU I dont think so, I have A1, B2, B3, C3 all converted to 1/2 with 1/4hex and since I have converted C3 I didnt have torque wrench more than 400Nm, but if I try to loose 400Nm, C3 is fastest with loosening time
So you agree that the C3 is weaker than the B3?
I gave it a try with heat gun, but it doesn’t work. I can not beat out the original ring. Don’t want to damage my tool…
I did also come across a very tight bushing. Tighter than usual. I managed to pull it out in the end but it took a lot of effort. I put the entire assembly in the freezer and then blasted it with a flame as I took it out. It was still a battle. I got it out in the end with no damage to the casing. But if you don't feel comfortable with it I would advise not to try it or to give it to someone with a hydraulic press.
@@BrokeLifeEU Thank you for your answer. So, the problem was not about the heat. I beat it like crazy with no result. Yes, I think I need a hydraulic press.
Put it in the Freezer for half an hour than used a heat Gun for some moments.
Instead of using a ruber Hammer - thats where I struggled too - I used a normal one.
3 or 4 brave Hits and done. 😅
I subscribed, because of this video! Someone wanted 50 euros for this modification! No problem he can sell but 50 euros is too much.
Thank you for subscribing! I hope there will be many more good videos to come!
is it normal for the anvil to no longer spin freely afterwards?
No! By no means. So in some cases that will occur when the base of the anvil is too thick. On the older B3 model you could get away without doing anything to the base of the anvil. On the C3 it looks like it is a 50-50 shot. In order to fix this you need sandpaper and elbow grease or a bench grinder. You need to remove 1mm of material from the bottom of the anvil - that is the base where it meets the impact mechanism of the tool. After you have done that assemble again and it will turn freely. I got some anvils from Aliexpress last week and that part I am talking about was 6mm on one, 6.5 on another and nearly 7 on a third. This is the first time I see such a thing. In any case all can and will be used after I reduce that part of the anvil to 5mm. I am here if any other questions arise. Also you should not use it when it is not turning freely! You should get this done and then it will be excellent, but if it is not turning freely it is stressing the gears. This is the primary reason you may be experiencing this issue. Another option is that the new bushing is not as far in to the casing as it needs to be. However my bet is on the first scenario.
@@BrokeLifeEU yep, just took it out and this one seems to be about 6.5mm thick... time to sand it down! its gonna take a while but i hope its worth it. thank you very much!
Sorry to hear. The quality on these is getting worse by the day… if you can get it down to the 5 mark that is the target. It is worth it in the end it is a very nice combo to have. Also if you don‘t mind me asking which bushing did you go for?
@@BrokeLifeEU i went for the self lubricating one, fit pretty nicely and only needed a couple taps after taking it out of the freezer overnight. i just hope this sanding wont take ages 🤣
@SpinningLocusts The steel one is harder to get in to the casing but takes quite a lot more abuse than the brass one. Keep that in mind and maybe order one for the future as the self lubricating one at some point will wear out. The steel one you will never need to worry about. As I said the negative side is the steel one is difficult to get on to that casing.
What program/app are you using for video editing? Thank you!
It depends, some I edit on my phone, others I do on MovieMaker. It is a disappointing answer I know, however I don't know how to work the more powerful programmes.
@BrokeLifeEU it doesn't matter, for shore you are doing a great job!
@VladimirNicolin Thank you so much! So are you, you have some great videos with the new impact! Great job!!!
@BrokeLifeEU Thank you, but i know my videos are far away from yours. I had no intention to make a channel, but you inspired me and maybe i will invest some time to make more quality videos. Photography is my passion, but tools and videos started to grow on me...anyway your videos are great, your English is great...youtube is made to suit you! English is your native language?
You are doing an amazing job! Truly I have seen what you are doing and you are providing great content. Mine is more on the let's have fun side of things, whereas you took those impacts to their limits! I am really honoured you said that about the inspiration, but I can't take any credit for that! You had it in you and you just needed to see someone else starting from 0. It is scary for me too seeing channels with so many subscribers. I know I will never be like them. However I have a full time job and occupation so I am just here to have some fun and share it with as many people would like to join in. Looking at it like that it does not feel like a task or something to go after and conquer. So I am really enjoying my experience so far. And that is above all thanks to nice and kind people like you! Taking the time to comment and share! I would love it if we manage to grow our channels together! I wholeheartedly wish you all the best! May you accomplish all the goals you set for yourself! I am sure you can produce lots of great content! As you have maybe seen English is not a "must" for UA-cam. Many people have great content in other languages. In fact for me English is my third language. And at the moment the one I use the least.
P.S. I am sure you can do this! When you reach 10Mil subscribers I will be waiting for my private jet that you have arranged to pick me up and we will do a collaboration video! Hopefully with some budget tools! 😂
Thanks for the details!
What do you think, can there be difference in performance between the two anvil diameters?
You are welcome! I don't think the diameter will contribute to the end performance in any meaningful way. So whichever one you fancy should be fine. However as I said one is a lot easier to do and a bit more expensive, however the other option (18mm) could turn out to be a lot more work and there are more parts (3 instead of 2) that you need in order to make the conversion work.
Thanks.
By the way have you done this on an older A1 version? That seems to be more robust than the Bx ones.
It is in fact more robust. I never had the A1 and I have never done this mod on the A1. Although I have come across some measurements regarding an A1 PDSSAP and the 1/2" anvil conversion. If you are interested I can't make a video on them, however I can try and upload them on the community page. @@PetAd90
I have done it waiting for the bushing@@PetAd90
Moin, kommst du aus Deutschland?
Habe paar Fragen dazu
Mfg
Guten Abend! Entschuldigung für die späte Antwort. Ich kann die Nachrichten nur sehen, wenn ich nach Hause komme. Ich bin derzeit nicht in Deutschland ansässig. Aber wie kann ich helfen?
Is it possible to do a Bosch style anvil?( Like the gdx 18v-180)
Unfortunately I have not managed to get ahold of that anvil. YET! However I have been looking in to it and it would combine the best of both worlds!
Or if you just want an anvil with a 1/2“ and 1/4“ opening that is the anvil from the full tutorial linked in the description.
hello, do I still need to modify the parts? or are they already made, just to mount them, I have a b3
If you go with the 16mm anvil which I recommend, you will need to grind the base of it down from 6+mm to 5mm. The steel bushing 16x22x10 is a direct fit. And that is all you need for a 1/2 anvil conversion.
@@BrokeLifeEU where can i get the parts cheaper? a link?👍
@@BrokeLifeEU thank you, a link from others express doesn't work, can you give me another one for the bush?
@valentinvali3307 I think I did post the cheapest possible links at the time. However depending on your country you need to look around. All you need is an anvil for a Worx WU278 and a steel bushing ID=16 OD=22 H=10mm.
@@valentinvali3307 You can try eBay www.ebay.com/itm/204537622056 select 16x22x10
What is the original shaft and bushing hole diameter?
Hello! The original shaft of the original anvil has a diameter of 14mm. So the original bushing has an inside diameter of 14mm. I am rounding these up the nearest mm. Otherwise the shaft would be something like 13.95mm I guess.
@@BrokeLifeEU What battery do you suggest with this tool? Is the 2Ah enough?
Driver is 60€, 2Ah battery is 20€ 4Ah 40€, 2A charger 15€ 4,5A charger 25€
@khFokke1895 The 2Ah is too weak for this tool I think. The 4Ah is the best choice, you get decent power and the weight is not too bad. But the 2Ah is not a good choice.
@@BrokeLifeEU
Got the impact today and ordered the anvil. The impact drivers looks and smells cheap 😅 but its pretty strong, I wonder how long will it last
I will make my own hardened steel bushing, I think it's a better choice than bronze in this case. Dirt will get in it and eat the bronze
The steel bushing is a really good idea! Also no need to make it I hve a link for a ready one. About €4 22x16x10mm it is very solid and no issues with it at all!
I did the conversion a few days ago, used the 16 mm Worx anvil and bushing, i dont know if i got unlucky, but at first it was almost impossible to fit any socket, tried old ones, new ones, diffrent makes, but no. So i tried to sand it down on the ring and tip, with small progress. So i dicided to pull out the rubber o-ring behind the locking-ring on the anvil, now most sockets fit although not perfect. However, i have big sideways play in the anvil, much more then my other 1/2" impacts! Not sure if o got unlucky or this is whats to be expected? 🙁 Do you have some similar experiences?
I think they sent you a defective one or at least not a very good specimen. At first they can be a bit difficult to put a socket on, however after the 4-5 socket they start fitting very nicely. They are a snug fit so they need some pressure to go in, but that meany they won't come off easily when you don't want them to. However I have made about 10 of these for friends and they never needed any sanding or grinding. Nor have they told me after that they had any problems of this sort. It could also be a problem with the )-ring which is under the metal retaining pin at the top of the anvil. You can check that too and make sure it is a good fit and not too loose.
@@BrokeLifeEU I think i have to order another kit 😂 I removed the rubber o-ring, it was the only way to be able to fit a socket, still hard to remove the socket but easier to put on. Ive dome it about 40-50 times at first, totally exhausted 😂 Really hard! Oh well, i guess i just have to order a new kit ^^ But the massive play between the anvil and the bushing is a concern for me
They have deffinately sent you a defective anvil. In all the ones I have assembled there is minimal play between the anvil and bushing. There can‘t be no play, because you need a lot of space but the play should not be substantial. Have you seen the links for the steel bushings? They are very nice!
@@BrokeLifeEU I will have a look! Because the bushing i recived must be defect of some kind 😂 Its a shame, i was so dissapointet when i could wiggle it sideways 😂 I will order and give it a try! Thanks! 😊
I am very sorry you are disappointed! I suggest you tell the sellers, because in my experience one of the items is defective!
where can i buy 1/2 conversions? shafts, parts?
I left the links for everthing under the video. If some lf them don‘t work let me know so I can update the list.
Can you do that with the older green ones?
I am looking in to buying one and giving it a go myself so we can see how it can be done.
@@BrokeLifeEU yes id like to convert mine into a 3/8 drive
The model number is PDSSA A1 correct?@@brkauto7897
@@BrokeLifeEU yes i think so
I now have one on the way so I will look in to it for sure!
Is it gonna be fine with using EP2 lithium grease rated for +120 degrees, or should i get high temp?
I think it should be fine. I only ever used this one since I bought it. My other option at the time was graphite, however what said it was only good for up to 60 degrees and I felt that was a bit too low. However I later discovered some people were using the graphite grease with no issues. So it would depend on your usage of the tool. I went with the highest temp rated I could find just to be extra sure. As just a guess I would say 120 degree grease should be more than good enough if not for continual heavy use.
Difference between b3 and c3? Which is best?
Very close. B3 is just a little bit more powerful at max settings when I tested them together. Otherwise no real noticeable difference. However I do prefer the mode selection switch on the B3 as for me it is easier to press and read.
ffs you really going to make me pull apart my brand new tool? xD
😂 But for a good cause I think.
Do you know any options for PDSSAP 20 Li A1, i couldnt find anything on internet.
Unfortunately I don‘t have any options yet…I am saving up for one and then I‘ll see if there is a good ready to convert option out there. The internals look quite different from the outside.
there isnt easy 'just change' option, you need to make some modifications with lathe
@@BrokeLifeEUi have an A1 and the hole/outer diameter for the bushing is around 19mm.
Im thinking i will drill the original bushing to 16mm so it will fit the new anvil
Is it the PDSSA A1 or PDSSAP A1@@Fuck9oogleAskMe
Which one of the parkshit I prefer?
The yellow one please. The one that says DeWalt on the side.
Or a red one with Milwaukee on the side. I think we would all love that!
@@BrokeLifeEU Anything but parkshit.
Pretty sure you would not enjoy the HiLda drill from one of my videos.
@@BrokeLifeEU When I said "anything", I meant DeWalt, Hilti, Milwaukee, Festool, Berner, Makita, Metabo, Wurth, even Bosch, although not my cup of tea.
I'm not a fan of the Milwaukee battery latch system either, really hard to remove. I'll deal with that though.
Have you used the 1300 NM Parkside impact wrench? I have it, currently in its second year of use, mainly for changing out car wheels. It's a bit heavy, but for it's size and torque, what else can you get for around 130 Euro bare tool? DeWalt's are great, but maybe a battery and a charger costs more than the Parkside, right?