Thank You for your very informative video. You saved me a lot of money! The local Toro dealer wanted $185.00 to replace the paddles & scraper bar. I purchased the replacement kit from Amazon which included: 2 rubber paddles; Scraper bar; and drive belt for about $67.00. I have to agree with you on the side bolts with one exception, the bottom ones are not "tricky", they are a "bitch" to replace! However I found a helpful solution! I simply wrapped a 'rubber band' on a pair of needle nose pliers (just below where that 7/16 nut fits). It took me a couple of hours the first time to replace the paddles due to that confined space on the lower bolts. However, once going back into the house and thinking. I came up with the simple 'rubber band' solution. It worked great to get the lock nut started. I hope my tip helps many people that do this. Oh, one more tip: When all of the bolts & nuts, etc. are removed, place them in a small plastic container filled with 'White Vinegar'. You will be amazed how all of the rust & corrosion is gone within 24 hours.
I've watched many of these videos, this one actually addressed my issue...I couldn't remember how and where the spacers belonged during replacement of the new paddles this is the only how to video that actually addressed this and explained how to insert them, it took me so long to get the old screws and nuts off because they were so badly rusted, that by the time I got everything disassembled I had forgotten where I took the spacers from. Hey what can I say?? I did it and I'm very grateful to you for this very helpful video. Thank You!!!
@markanthony53 That is a great question. You want to install the paddle so that the soft rubber side will contact the ground first. This protects the fabric reinforcement from excessive wear. Sorry we didn't mention that in the video. Thanks for watching! Good luck with your repair! -Mark
Great Video. Helped me with replacing my paddles, scrapper and belt. There was a few difference with my Toro model. The scrapper had two large bolts on each end (1/2" nuts) and two springs on each end. Also when replacing the belt I had no room to slip the belt off the bottom large pully. I had to remove that pully in order to get the belt off. Other than that, this video helped alot and saved me $$$.
Excellent Video. These are always time and money savers. I agree with the suggestion to replace both at the same time. I first replaced just a cracked scrapper and left the old paddles on only to find it catching everything.
I stripped the bolt that you said might need a needle nosed pliers because, of clearance issues while removing the paddle, I also stripped the torx side of the said bolt (I used too small a torx tip). Now I'm stuck, a friend saw my "Suffering" and cut the worn paddle down to the stripped bolt, he then took a propane torch and on VERY VERY VERY LOW flame he softened the nylon nut lock and it unscrewed easily, he said Go and get the right "TORX" tip and 1/4 x 20 thread nylocks at the auto store.
@rwwood48 Rusted bolts are never fun to replace. I would start by soaking them for a day with a good penetrating oil. Hopefully that will loosen them up enough to remove them. If not. your best bet is to cut them off with a cutting wheel in a grinder and replace them. Be sure that when you do replace them to use factory replacements or some good stainless steel replacements to avoid more rust in the future. Good luck! -Mark
When I went to replace my scraper bar the carriage bolts spun in the holes. The only way for me to get them out was to cut the scraper bar from around the bolts and use a hacksaw to cut the bolts off. The 20 minute job that turned into a hour!
Hi, Thanks for all the videos. Extremely helpful, and to everyone who lent their expertise. Just to add my 2 cents regarding the bottom 7/16 nut. Wera makes a wrench that can be purchased individually or in a set called Joker. On the open end of the wrench you can place the nut on the wrench in a certain groove of the wrench and it will hold the nut in place. Thin wrench. Works well in many applications. See UA-cam videos on it. Good Luck. John
A little o-ring lube on the special bolts make them easier to install and turn in the rubber paddles. Needle nose vice grips make the nuts easier to hold in position.
@rwwood48 The paddles do pull the snowblower forward. I would suspect that you are correct in your thinking that the snowblower will not "drive" forward due to the new scraper blade and old paddles. The scraper tends to wear at about the same speed as the paddles. The new scraper will be taller due to the fact that it has not worn down yet. The older paddles probably are not making contact with the ground due to this. A new set of paddles should fix things. -Mark
I tipped my blower back to access the blades and scraper and after replacing the blades found oil had leaked out onto my garage floor. Looks like I should have drained the oil before replacing the blades?
@pedraza007 That does sound like worn out paddles. As we mention in the video, the scraper tends to wear out at about the same time as the paddles. Replacing both should have your machine running like new again! Good luck with your repair! -Mark
I replaced the scraper like you shown. Now my blower has to be pushed through the snow,the scraper does not slide on the ground. Are the paddles suppose to "Pull" the blower through the snow? I didn't replace the blades.. Is that why it won't "Pull" itself through the snow? Nice video helps out a lot. Thanks.
Spray all the bolts and screws with silicone lube, especially for the torx screws as this enables them to be more easily inserted into the rubber and then to rotate more freely. For the lower right screw (the "bitch") use a needle nose pliers to hold the round end part of the locknut. This allows you to push the nut against the screw with a much greater chance of getting it threaded. It also helps to do this one first.
Very nice and instructive video. I bought the new paddles, and other parts from your site, and they are the same measurements as the old ones, but if I try to mount them as described they will not fit. The rubber is to tick to stretch to the lower hole. I can mount however, i guess the wrong way, and of course it doesn't work properly. Any recommendation? I would really appreciate it. Raffaele
The older models have the wide center plate. If yours is one of these, The Paddles are no longer offer but the paddles for the newer version, as seen in the video with the smaller center plate will work but will need to be muscled into place. Sometimes you can heat these is some hot water to make them a bit more pliable. No easy simple fix.
I have a toro ccr 2450 and it seems like the blower is not throwing the snow very far and only spits up snow to the front of machine....what do you suggest? I just purchased new paddles/scraper/and belt do you think this cure my situation.
THANK YOU....... I probably would have lost the spacers.... hahahahaha..... and i would have missed the right side installment on the scraper... again, thanks......
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Thank You for your very informative video. You saved me a lot of money! The local Toro dealer wanted $185.00 to replace the paddles & scraper bar. I purchased the replacement kit from Amazon which included: 2 rubber paddles; Scraper bar; and drive belt for about $67.00. I have to agree with you on the side bolts with one exception, the bottom ones are not "tricky", they are a "bitch" to replace! However I found a helpful solution! I simply wrapped a 'rubber band' on a pair of needle nose pliers (just below where that 7/16 nut fits). It took me a couple of hours the first time to replace the paddles due to that confined space on the lower bolts. However, once going back into the house and thinking. I came up with the simple 'rubber band' solution. It worked great to get the lock nut started. I hope my tip helps many people that do this. Oh, one more tip: When all of the bolts & nuts, etc. are removed, place them in a small plastic container filled with 'White Vinegar'. You will be amazed how all of the rust & corrosion is gone within 24 hours.
I've watched many of these videos, this one actually addressed my issue...I couldn't remember how and where the spacers belonged during replacement of the new paddles this is the only how to video that actually addressed this and explained how to insert them, it took me so long to get the old screws and nuts off because they were so badly rusted, that by the time I got everything disassembled I had forgotten where I took the spacers from. Hey what can I say?? I did it and I'm very grateful to you for this very helpful video. Thank You!!!
@markanthony53 That is a great question. You want to install the paddle so that the soft rubber side will contact the ground first. This protects the fabric reinforcement from excessive wear. Sorry we didn't mention that in the video. Thanks for watching!
Good luck with your repair!
-Mark
Great Video. Helped me with replacing my paddles, scrapper and belt. There was a few difference with my Toro model. The scrapper had two large bolts on each end (1/2" nuts) and two springs on each end. Also when replacing the belt I had no room to slip the belt off the bottom large pully. I had to remove that pully in order to get the belt off. Other than that, this video helped alot and saved me $$$.
Excellent Video. These are always time and money savers. I agree with the suggestion to replace both at the same time. I first replaced just a cracked scrapper and left the old paddles on only to find it catching everything.
I stripped the bolt that you said might need a needle nosed pliers because, of clearance issues while removing the paddle, I also stripped the torx side of the said bolt (I used too small a torx tip). Now I'm stuck, a friend saw my "Suffering" and cut the worn paddle down to the stripped bolt, he then took a propane torch and on VERY VERY VERY LOW flame he softened the nylon nut lock and it unscrewed easily, he said Go and get the right "TORX" tip and 1/4 x 20 thread nylocks at the auto store.
@rwwood48 Rusted bolts are never fun to replace. I would start by soaking them for a day with a good penetrating oil. Hopefully that will loosen them up enough to remove them. If not. your best bet is to cut them off with a cutting wheel in a grinder and replace them. Be sure that when you do replace them to use factory replacements or some good stainless steel replacements to avoid more rust in the future.
Good luck!
-Mark
Very helpful, I remember doing this years ago and what a pain it is to get the bolts in place on the sides. You would think there's a better way.
When I went to replace my scraper bar the carriage bolts spun in the holes. The only way for me to get them out was to cut the scraper bar from around the bolts and use a hacksaw to cut the bolts off. The 20 minute job that turned into a hour!
Hi, Thanks for all the videos. Extremely helpful, and to everyone who lent their expertise. Just to add my 2 cents regarding the bottom 7/16 nut. Wera makes a wrench that can be purchased individually or in a set called Joker. On the open end of the wrench you can place the nut on the wrench in a certain groove of the wrench and it will hold the nut in place. Thin wrench. Works well in many applications. See UA-cam videos on it. Good Luck. John
A little o-ring lube on the special bolts make them easier to install and turn in the rubber paddles. Needle nose vice grips make the nuts easier to hold in position.
@rwwood48 The paddles do pull the snowblower forward. I would suspect that you are correct in your thinking that the snowblower will not "drive" forward due to the new scraper blade and old paddles. The scraper tends to wear at about the same speed as the paddles. The new scraper will be taller due to the fact that it has not worn down yet. The older paddles probably are not making contact with the ground due to this. A new set of paddles should fix things.
-Mark
I tipped my blower back to access the blades and scraper and after replacing the blades found oil had leaked out onto my garage floor. Looks like I should have drained the oil before replacing the blades?
@pedraza007 That does sound like worn out paddles. As we mention in the video, the scraper tends to wear out at about the same time as the paddles. Replacing both should have your machine running like new again!
Good luck with your repair!
-Mark
I replaced the scraper like you shown. Now my blower has to be pushed through the snow,the scraper does not slide on the ground. Are the paddles suppose to "Pull" the blower through the snow? I didn't replace the blades.. Is that why it won't "Pull" itself through the snow? Nice video helps out a lot. Thanks.
Excellent video. Got me through changing the full rig inside the chanber.
Spray all the bolts and screws with silicone lube, especially for the torx screws as this enables them to be more easily inserted into the rubber and then to rotate more freely. For the lower right screw (the "bitch") use a needle nose pliers to hold the round end part of the locknut. This allows you to push the nut against the screw with a much greater chance of getting it threaded. It also helps to do this one first.
It looks easy with new bolts. Mine are all rusted,and won't come off. How do you remove rusted bolts on this model? Thanks.
Very nice and instructive video. I bought the new paddles, and other parts from your site, and they are the same measurements as the old ones, but if I try to mount them as described they will not fit. The rubber is to tick to stretch to the lower hole. I can mount however, i guess the wrong way, and of course it doesn't work properly.
Any recommendation?
I would really appreciate it.
Raffaele
The older models have the wide center plate. If yours is one of these, The Paddles are no longer offer but the paddles for the newer version, as seen in the video with the smaller center plate will work but will need to be muscled into place. Sometimes you can heat these is some hot water to make them a bit more pliable. No easy simple fix.
What is the correct size torx head to remove these bolts?
Nice job, very helpful.
Awesome. Great thanks. I thought I put these on wrong but it turns out they're on correctly. Thanks again-
great video,just replaced my paddles and scraper today, thanks.
That was on a 2005 Toro 38515 CCR 141cc 20" single stage unit
I have a toro ccr 2450 and it seems like the blower is not throwing the snow very far and only spits up snow to the front of machine....what do you suggest? I just purchased new paddles/scraper/and belt do you think this cure my situation.
Thanks for the info guys....great job and video.... ;-)
how do you get the blade part
Useful video
See the link in the video description or visit our website and you'll be on your way to getting a replacement blade part. Thanks for watching!
THANK YOU....... I probably would have lost the spacers.... hahahahaha..... and i would have missed the right side installment on the scraper... again, thanks......