Thanks for that video! I couldn’t have done it without your help. For anyone else like me who had no luck with the duct tape on the open-end wrench: I just couldn’t get enough Oomph on that screw using a torx bit with a 1/4” drive ratchet, which was all I had. SO- I used needle nosed vice grips to hold that nut next to the belt side. With a helper, I managed to get those threads to start.
Outstanding. Those screws at the ends of the paddle are a pain. Especially on the drive belt side. The duct tape technique worked perfectly. Great tip.
Thank you *_so much_* for absolutely the best video on this topic! Your explanation and attention to detail is second-to-none (especially, regarding the orientation of the paddles). With much appreciation, and stay safe and well! 🍻
This was an excellent tutorial, esp mentioning wrench sizes! I found one REALLY useful tool for this job is needle-nose vice grips. Plus I used them to press the spacers into the paddle. And…great idea gor keeping blade warm. But, when Mr. Procrastinator (me!) had to do this during a blizzard…a HEAT GUN really helped. I think that would help even in warmer weather, since the softer rubber really makes the side screws much easier to align and drive.
Thank you! It's nice to know it helped someone! I have also used some long needle nose pliers those do help getting the nuts started. Nice idea using the heat gun to warm the paddles up. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Bought this for my small back deck in the Eastern Sierra. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxoHYZbq5g9fkcAtinlTqstNlje-UQkCHN We get A LOT of HEAVY snow so I was a bit skeptical but it was worth it! After the first storm of the year this has exceeded expectations! It throws snow very well, even 10-12” + that said the more it piles up the harder it is to maneuver the machine. It is exceptionally light weight and overall exactly what I was looking for. If you have a large amount of snow and a lot of area to clear, you may consider something with a drive engine to help maneuverability, but for decks, second stories, roofs etc, you can’t beat the light weight to great snow throwing ratio. Side note, the chute rotator is a bit flimsy and it initially didn’t seem to work, after a few uses it seems to have loosened up.
What a great video! It was so nice to see the close in shots too. We could really see what you were talking about. I have this to do on mine plus the paddle cable. I think it will be a all in one shot for me. Thanks for a great video... A very nice job!!!
Great Video. Tape Trick is a real time and sanity saver. and removing the inserts is a huge reminder. I like using a few pint soup containers for the screws and bolts so they don't mixed up or get lost
Thank you! Just knocked out my first ever paddle and scraper replacement on my 2010 210E in about an hour. They held up pretty well after 11 years of Minnesota winters ☃️
Thanks watching your videos gave me the confidence to change the oil and paddle on my unit, went back watched again to get the details needed I’m blowing the same snow as u in the twin city’s
when I do these I put the paddles on an old style radiator in our house to warm them up and hold the nut with a narrow jaw vicegrips for the hard to get at ones. Narrow jaw vicegrips will just fit in that narrow gap.
This is a great video! I really appreciate it. But I’m jealous of how easily you changed those difficult bolts near the drive! Even with the duct tape trip I found it extremely hard! But got it done. Thanks
@@tonylofu1970 I use a silicone spray in my 2 stage snowblower and have not had any problems. There are several brands just use one that says silicone on it. I usually do it before the first snow and when I get it ready for summer storage. Hope this helps!
Of course I put the paddles on opposite, yesterday before this video. Upside got them on . Mine has a dent , on the beltside. So i put a clamp on the bolt barely had room for the nut .but im so happy to have this back on line. Really didn't want to drop a couple hundred to fix a bolt on part
Excellent, thank you! Nice wrench/nut tape trick. On the paddle I just replaced, it was pretty cold and the rubber was not very flexible, so I put the paddle in position, but did the lower outermost bolts on each side first, then the upper/sides and was able to convince the middle two pretty easily. This might be slightly better than working totally one side then over to the other? (Maybe not)
Replaced paddles and scraper on a 221 model today. Paddles/rotor/scraper all look exactly the same as your video. It had T27 torx screws in the paddles. I used commercial grade paddles and they are slightly thicker and considerably stiffer (6 rayon? plies are visible). Tried the tape trick, still couldn't get the screw started. Finally wound up taking the entire rotor out of the housing so I could get after it on the bench. Fixed!! Next time I do this I'm going to try removing the "half-rotor" plates completely, attach the paddles at the ends (drive side first) then reattach the half-rotor plates. Don't know if that will work any better, but for what I had to pay the "cuss jar" today, it might save me some money ;-). Thanks for the vid "Family" !!
Sorry the tap trick didn't work. Some people like to use long needle nose pliers to hold the nut when they start. Hopefully you have a better experience next time! Thanks for watching!
I wish I would of viewed this before I did my paddle replacement yesterday....man what a pain in the ass those 2 nuts and bolts ...you know the ones I mean. However..thanks!
Thanks the the video. I was hoping the scraper bar was adjustable but see it is not. I just bought a new 721 and the self-propelled feature of the paddles really pulls me along, so I was hoping there was an adjustment. Is it normal for a new snow blower like the 721 to have a fair amount of pull? I assume it will lessen as the paddles wear. Is that your experience?
Hi all. Am I supposed to drain the oil before I do this? I tipped my machine while I was working on the paddes, and it leaked oil from this black tube above the oil port!
Sorry for the delayed response. I do not know exactly what the paddles are made of, some sort of reinforce rubber. I get the replacement paddles, belts, scraper bars and any other parts from my local toro dealer.
@@rayeckert9425 I don't really have any complaints with the one I have, I would like to try the qze model but am afraid that the cables would freeze up. 🤔
I've used the tape trick to retain a nut before with success, but used a pair of needle nosed pliers in this case instead to start the nut. A six inch pair of vice grips with the extended reach is helpful as well for locally compressing the paddles and contributing to greater bolt protrusion.
Interesting how they use an 11mm on the center paddle bolts, but everything else is standard. Duct tape good idea. Think I will try my needle nosed visegrips instead when I change mine. Great "how to video"! Have the 621 and haven't use it enough to change paddles yet. Use mostly the 2 stage last winter.
Very good video. When I did mine, the paddles were hitting the back wall and killing the engine. Haven’t torn it apart to look if there is an adjustment yet.
@@amidwestfamily112 since I couldn’t take the 21” paddles back, I modified them to fit, and I figure this will just give me more meat to wear through for the rest of this year. Bought the 20” paddles, looking for a new scraper edge for the housing for next year. No big deal.
I have this same blower but every time I try to put the bolts on the sides that are hard to get at the paddle won’t line up with the hole there is a 1 inch gap and the paddle won’t budge either. Ugh I’m so frustrated.
I have not had that problem. I start the bolts on the end that is hard then start the ones on the other end then the center ones. After they are all started I go back and tighten them down.
If you buy genuine Toro paddles they have two different options, the standard paddle or the HD paddle. The HD paddle is what comes standard on there commercial line like the 721 CR.
On most single stage units there will be a wear hole indicator on the paddles to let you know when they are in need of replacement. Once the hole is open or gone they are worn out. Or you can usually tell when the unit starts throwing snow in front of your path, instead of throwing it out the shoot.
Great video. Are you absolutely sure that the thicker side of the paddles face that direction? What happens if they're in backwards? Will it wear down faster or maybe not throw snow as far? I just picked up a used 621 qze and the paddles are facing the opposite direction. So I'm assuming someone changed them at some point and put them on wrong. We don't have snow yet, so I couldn't try it out. But they're worn down to the holes and need to be changed anyway. Going to make sure I put em on the way you did instead of how they are now. Thanks!
Hello, yes the paddles should go the thicker side towards the machine. If they are installed backwards I would imagine they might wear out faster. But i dont know that since i have always installed them one way. Thank you for watching!
Hey Midwest, I ran into a problem changing my paddles. I assembled all the tools; my torx t25 is the hand screwdriver type. Terrific so far. (As an aside, my tools are American made Challenger and Protool. But I found that the bolts don't really make a tight fit; they don't slip, but there's too much play). The big problem was the bolts at the ends of the paddles - they're torqued on so tight that no human can move them. I have the thicker paddles that came with the 721rc, could that make a difference? Those bolt heads are pulled tight into all that rubber. The only thing I can think of is that I have to cut the rubber away, maybe with tin snips; perhaps that will release some pressure from the bolts. I could spray with WD40, but I don't think it's soak in anywhere because of the rubber. Anybody have some suggestions? Thanks
Yeah I don't think the thicker paddles would make that big of a difference. I haven't had that problem yet, I do make a point to change any hardware when doing a paddle swap if the bolts are starting to get bad or starting to strip out. Best of luck!
Thanks for the video. It was very helpful. But can you advise if the skid plate height can be adjusted? And is there somewhere to adjust the height of the blades so not to pull up gravel driveway?
The single stage snow blowers typically do not have an adjustable scraper bar. They are designed mostly for concrete, if you want a adjustable hight scraper bar those are usually on the 2 stage units.
Thank you so much for your video. Do you recommend buying the standard paddle kit or the long life paddles? I only use the blower about three times a season, but it has lasted for 17 years. Put into service back in 2005 in South Bend and then brought down to St. Louis. Just now having to replace the paddles.
I see this was a year ago I’m a female I’ve just purchased my first gas machine I’m a senior citizen I’m all these things! the first use I noticed my paddle has some threads that are loose. I guess ripping through the snow is that normal and is it supposed to be on the ground is the paddle supposed to come in contact with the ground? I sure hope somebody answers this for me.
The rubber paddles are designed to contact the cement, so yes the strings hanging off the paddle is normal. Just pay attention to the wear indicators on the paddles and replace them when they are due. For my unit I change the scraper bar every other time I change the paddles. Thanks for watching!
Appreciate the video ! Have you ever come across an issue with newly installed paddles hitting the ground so much that the blower bounces along ? All the bolts are tight on the paddles, the paddles clear the scraper blade just fine ( which is also new ) but it seems like too much of the paddles hit the ground. I did buy this as a kit for the 721E ( part #’s match manual too ) off Amazon so maybe that’s the issue too 😅 Thanks !
I have not had that problem, the only time it does a hoping or bouncing effect it's from snow buildup on the wheels. Good luck let us know what you find out!
I wanted the rc model but I could not find any in stock anywhere at the the time, this was the only model I could find. The paddles last around 70 houses depending on concrete conditions and such.
I now see where I went wrong. I took off all the screws at once and everything took a piss. Should have done what you did one at a time. I like the truck with the duct tape too
On a Toro 621, oil will leak out of the breather of the the unit if it is placed on it's back. Just keep the unit titled up at least a foot so it won't. Otherwise, awesome video!
Thanks for posting this .... I have a Toro 721QZE and got a bunch of oil in the pickup bed of the truck today. I was wondering where it came from since the oil dipstick was tight and didn't seem to be leaking. Next time I'll probably drain the oil first before I tilt the machine backwards.
Thanks for that video! I couldn’t have done it without your help.
For anyone else like me who had no luck with the duct tape on the open-end wrench: I just couldn’t get enough Oomph on that screw using a torx bit with a 1/4” drive ratchet, which was all I had. SO- I used needle nosed vice grips to hold that nut next to the belt side. With a helper, I managed to get those threads to start.
Outstanding. Those screws at the ends of the paddle are a pain. Especially on the drive belt side. The duct tape technique worked perfectly. Great tip.
Tape and wrench trick is a game changer with a ton of stuff! Great video, and thank you.
That bolt that you used the tape on is the most difficult thing when changing the paddle
thanks for the tip with the tape made my job changing the paddles easy
I am glad I was able to help, thank you for watching!
Thank you *_so much_* for absolutely the best video on this topic!
Your explanation and attention to detail is second-to-none (especially, regarding the orientation of the paddles).
With much appreciation, and stay safe and well! 🍻
Thank you very much! It's nice knowing that the video was able to help people out! Thanks for watching!
The best video I have seen on this subject. Thanks so much for you time. Loved the duct tape hint!!!
Thanks! Very helpful and clear, especially the tips about tape, paddle orientation and warming. Great ! ! !
Glad it was helpful, thank you for the donation!
You are one amazing instructor. Thank you so much.
Thanks for watching! I am happy I was able to help!
This was an excellent tutorial, esp mentioning wrench sizes! I found one REALLY useful tool for this job is needle-nose vice grips. Plus I used them to press the spacers into the paddle.
And…great idea gor keeping blade warm. But, when Mr. Procrastinator (me!) had to do this during a blizzard…a HEAT GUN really helped. I think that would help even in warmer weather, since the softer rubber really makes the side screws much easier to align and drive.
Thank you! It's nice to know it helped someone! I have also used some long needle nose pliers those do help getting the nuts started. Nice idea using the heat gun to warm the paddles up. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I love the creativeness with the wrench, can tell you have done this a few times, thanks for the tips!
Thanks for watching! I hope it helped you!
One of the best videos on this topic. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you for watching and letting me know!
This was AWESOME! Gonna put these on this weekend with your help! Supposed to snow 6-10" in a couple days so perfect timing!
So glad I found your video - your tips made this a much easier project than if I hadn't seen it!
I'm glad it was able to help you out! Thanks for watching!
Bought this for my small back deck in the Eastern Sierra. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxoHYZbq5g9fkcAtinlTqstNlje-UQkCHN We get A LOT of HEAVY snow so I was a bit skeptical but it was worth it! After the first storm of the year this has exceeded expectations! It throws snow very well, even 10-12” + that said the more it piles up the harder it is to maneuver the machine. It is exceptionally light weight and overall exactly what I was looking for. If you have a large amount of snow and a lot of area to clear, you may consider something with a drive engine to help maneuverability, but for decks, second stories, roofs etc, you can’t beat the light weight to great snow throwing ratio. Side note, the chute rotator is a bit flimsy and it initially didn’t seem to work, after a few uses it seems to have loosened up.
I agree, it is a great machine!
Great video! Your tips and suggestions were BANG ON! Duct tape idea worked great!
Thank you for sharing your video
Thank you! I'm glad the video helped, needle nose pliers also work decent if you can't find any tap. Thanks for watching!
What a great video! It was so nice to see the close in shots too. We could really see what you were talking about. I have this to do on mine plus the paddle cable. I think it will be a all in one shot for me. Thanks for a great video... A very nice job!!!
Glad it was easily understandable, thank you for watching!
Excellent video--Thank You Very Much! I have watched many and yours was the most informative.
Thank you for letting me know! It is nice knowing that it is helping people!
Great Video. Tape Trick is a real time and sanity saver. and removing the inserts is a huge reminder.
I like using a few pint soup containers for the screws and bolts so they don't mixed up or get lost
Glad you found it helpful, I usually use magnetic trays to hold hardware. Thank you for watching!
Thank you! Just knocked out my first ever paddle and scraper replacement on my 2010 210E in about an hour. They held up pretty well after 11 years of Minnesota winters ☃️
Glad I was able to help you out! Hope you have a great season!
I put some serrated metal pieces the ends and now it can clear out frozen snow at the end of the driveways.
@@leadnsteel1428 sounds like that could be dangerous be careful!
Thank You Sir for this video. Taping the nuts to the wrench is genius!!!
Merry Christmas 🎄 to you and yours. 😁
Very clear video. Thanks for taking the time to illustrate it all. I appreciate it.
I'm glad it helped you out!
Just what I needed thanks so much man really appreciate it I was having a tough time with my snowblower
I'm glad the video was able to help you, thanks for watching!
thank you very much ... Fantastic step by step!!!! I REALLY appreciate your sharing of your knowledge....
Thank you! I'm glad you found it helpful!
This was really helpful! Now I feel like I can do this😊
Thanks!
I'm glad it was helpful, thank you for watching!
NIce job. You are a good teacher. Thank you.
Thank you, and thank you for watching!
Thanks watching your videos gave me the confidence to change the oil and paddle on my unit, went back watched again to get the details needed
I’m blowing the same snow as u in the twin city’s
Glad they were able to help you out! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video Greg, keep them coming.
Thank you, I try to get 1 or 2 videos out a week sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't.
The tape on the wrench........genius. Also realized I threw out the spacers and have been rocking the snow blower for years without them.
Glad I could show you a different way of doing it. I feel like the metal inserts get thrown away often. Thank you for watching!
Great video, thanks for sharing your tips!
Thank you for watching!
Just did mine! Thank you for the great video. This job was easy using it.
Awesome I'm glad it went well, thank you for watching and commenting!
when I do these I put the paddles on an old style radiator in our house to warm them up and hold the nut with a narrow jaw vicegrips for the hard to get at ones. Narrow jaw vicegrips will just fit in that narrow gap.
Nice job! Love the duck tape trick, as I have done this in the past with my power clear and that is a B... Nice work, appreciate you!
Thank you for the kind words, and thank you for watching!
Thanks! Great video! I used a small, thin Vice Grips to start the nuts.
Great video...well detailed and explained properly.
Thank you very much!
Greg thank you for the detailed instructions
Thank you for watching!
This is a great video! I really appreciate it. But I’m jealous of how easily you changed those difficult bolts near the drive! Even with the duct tape trip I found it extremely hard! But got it done. Thanks
it is difficult for sure, it does get a little easier the more you do it though haha!
Thank you for the excellent tips and thorough demonstration. I have the same 721E and have to change the clutch cable and belt as well. 3 yr old unit
Thanks for watching! Changing the belt isn't hard to do, I kind of go over it in another video! ua-cam.com/video/D1MBTEig8mw/v-deo.html
@@Flyeasy441 those are not to bad to do!
@@amidwestfamily112 Thanks for the quick reply.
I have a 621 daughter I'm having trouble with the Chute cable freezing up any suggestion anyone
@@tonylofu1970 I use a silicone spray in my 2 stage snowblower and have not had any problems. There are several brands just use one that says silicone on it. I usually do it before the first snow and when I get it ready for summer storage. Hope this helps!
Best video I’ve seen thanks
Thank you, and thank you for watching!
Of course I put the paddles on opposite, yesterday before this video. Upside got them on . Mine has a dent , on the beltside. So i put a clamp on the bolt barely had room for the nut .but im so happy to have this back on line. Really didn't want to drop a couple hundred to fix a bolt on part
Excellent, thank you! Nice wrench/nut tape trick. On the paddle I just replaced, it was pretty cold and the rubber was not very flexible, so I put the paddle in position, but did the lower outermost bolts on each side first, then the upper/sides and was able to convince the middle two pretty easily. This might be slightly better than working totally one side then over to the other? (Maybe not)
Outstanding video. Thank you.
I definitely appreciate tthe duct tape technique. Thank you
Long needle nose pliers work well also. Thanks for watching!
Is there a way to adjust the scraper bar? Seems like mine leaves a little bit of snow and it's smooth.
Replaced paddles and scraper on a 221 model today. Paddles/rotor/scraper all look exactly the same as your video. It had T27 torx screws in the paddles. I used commercial grade paddles and they are slightly thicker and considerably stiffer (6 rayon? plies are visible). Tried the tape trick, still couldn't get the screw started. Finally wound up taking the entire rotor out of the housing so I could get after it on the bench. Fixed!!
Next time I do this I'm going to try removing the "half-rotor" plates completely, attach the paddles at the ends (drive side first) then reattach the half-rotor plates. Don't know if that will work any better, but for what I had to pay the "cuss jar" today, it might save me some money ;-). Thanks for the vid "Family" !!
Sorry the tap trick didn't work. Some people like to use long needle nose pliers to hold the nut when they start. Hopefully you have a better experience next time! Thanks for watching!
GREAT GREAT VIDEO VERY HELPFUL
Thank you! Glad it was helpful.
I wish I would of viewed this before I did my paddle replacement yesterday....man what a pain in the ass those 2 nuts and bolts ...you know the ones I mean. However..thanks!
Thanx for the instructional video...
Thank you for watching!
Thanks, excellent job!
Thank you!
Thanks the the video. I was hoping the scraper bar was adjustable but see it is not. I just bought a new 721 and the self-propelled feature of the paddles really pulls me along, so I was hoping there was an adjustment. Is it normal for a new snow blower like the 721 to have a fair amount of pull? I assume it will lessen as the paddles wear. Is that your experience?
Very good . I followed you and I installed very easy . But I said right side is still a hard.
Glad I watched this on scraper bar, was not sure how springs fit on the bar correctly. Thanks.
Glad it helped you, thank you for watching!
Awesome vid buddy
Thanks!
Well explained! Thank you! 👍
Thank you for watching!
Hi all. Am I supposed to drain the oil before I do this? I tipped my machine while I was working on the paddes, and it leaked oil from this black tube above the oil port!
Hi...can i grease my noisey auger bearings or do inhave to put on new ones? 25 year old machine
I believe they are sealed bearings, so you would just have to replace it. That being said you could try to grease it, it wouldn't hurt anything.
How often do you replace the belt?? I like the tape trick, I normally use needle vise grips
I have had this unit over 5 years and have not needed to replace the belt yet. Vise grips work well also!
great video but please suggest to empty the oil before tilting the snow blower,,, it winds up leaking thru the carb??
Sounds like a good idea!
Great video...Tape idea is all I needed...was having some real grief with just needle nose pliers...nut kept falling off.
Thanks! I'm glad it was able to help you out! Thanks for watching!
Very helpful.
Thank you, glad it was helpful!
Hi would like to know what type of rubber that is and the durometer it is thanks
Sorry for the delayed response. I do not know exactly what the paddles are made of, some sort of reinforce rubber. I get the replacement paddles, belts, scraper bars and any other parts from my local toro dealer.
ok tks thought it was some kind of special rubber
Catching up on your past videos
Well thank you for doing that!
Spot on. Thanks man.
Thanks for watching, and commenting!
Pickup trucks beds make the perfect height workbench, I’ve been doing that for years.
Yes they do! Thanks for watching!
@@amidwestfamily112 those Toros are such great snow blowers, I have five of them that I use in my business up here in the great white north eh.
@@rayeckert9425 I don't really have any complaints with the one I have, I would like to try the qze model but am afraid that the cables would freeze up. 🤔
Good idea with the duct tape. I use narrow jaw Vice Grips. Those end bolts are a pain.
Those work great also!
I have a single stage blower with those paddles, it is that easy to replace and you should get about 2 winters on a set of paddles.
Depending on how much snow you get I would agree. I haven't even pulled mine out yet from storage yet....
I've used the tape trick to retain a nut before with success, but used a pair of needle nosed pliers in this case instead to start the nut. A six inch pair of vice grips with the extended reach is helpful as well for locally compressing the paddles and contributing to greater bolt protrusion.
Vise grips work awesome!
Thanks; very helpful video.
Thanks for watching, I'm glad it helped!
Interesting how they use an 11mm on the center paddle bolts, but everything else is standard.
Duct tape good idea. Think I will try my needle nosed visegrips instead when I change mine.
Great "how to video"! Have the 621 and haven't use it enough to change paddles yet. Use mostly the 2 stage last winter.
The needle nose visegrips work well also. Yeah idk why they use standard and metric hardware. Thanks for watching!
Thanks buddy, saved my ass in a couple of areas.
Glad to hear I was able to help you make it an easier process for you!
Very good video. When I did mine, the paddles were hitting the back wall and killing the engine. Haven’t torn it apart to look if there is an adjustment yet.
As far as I know there is no adjustment on the paddles. Good luck!
@@amidwestfamily112 lesson learned, double check your model and width. You’ll run into fitment issues trying to put 21” blades in a 20” machine.
@@Sjackson2369 oh man that's a bummer hopefully you were able to get it fixed easily without doing any damage!
@@amidwestfamily112 since I couldn’t take the 21” paddles back, I modified them to fit, and I figure this will just give me more meat to wear through for the rest of this year. Bought the 20” paddles, looking for a new scraper edge for the housing for next year. No big deal.
Important to reuse your old screw spacers from the center two holes.
I have this same blower but every time I try to put the bolts on the sides that are hard to get at the paddle won’t line up with the hole there is a 1 inch gap and the paddle won’t budge either. Ugh I’m so frustrated.
I have not had that problem. I start the bolts on the end that is hard then start the ones on the other end then the center ones. After they are all started I go back and tighten them down.
thank you your the best
Thank you for watching!
Thanks! Great Video
Glad it could help, thanks for watching!
R all paddles the same to buy for the 721e
If you buy genuine Toro paddles they have two different options, the standard paddle or the HD paddle. The HD paddle is what comes standard on there commercial line like the 721 CR.
Great video. Thank you!!
Thanks for the video
Thanks for watching!
How did u know u had to change it they look ok to me
On most single stage units there will be a wear hole indicator on the paddles to let you know when they are in need of replacement. Once the hole is open or gone they are worn out. Or you can usually tell when the unit starts throwing snow in front of your path, instead of throwing it out the shoot.
Great video. Are you absolutely sure that the thicker side of the paddles face that direction? What happens if they're in backwards? Will it wear down faster or maybe not throw snow as far?
I just picked up a used 621 qze and the paddles are facing the opposite direction. So I'm assuming someone changed them at some point and put them on wrong. We don't have snow yet, so I couldn't try it out. But they're worn down to the holes and need to be changed anyway.
Going to make sure I put em on the way you did instead of how they are now. Thanks!
Hello, yes the paddles should go the thicker side towards the machine. If they are installed backwards I would imagine they might wear out faster. But i dont know that since i have always installed them one way. Thank you for watching!
@@amidwestfamily112 Thank you so much! After my post, I saw Toro instructions that confirmed you are absolutely correct. 😀
@@RonJ-en7in no problem!
Great video! Can the 2 bolts and nuts be flipped?
No they cannot sadly
Hey Midwest, I ran into a problem changing my paddles. I assembled all the tools; my torx t25 is the hand screwdriver type. Terrific so far. (As an aside, my tools are American made Challenger and Protool. But I found that the bolts don't really make a tight fit; they don't slip, but there's too much play). The big problem was the bolts at the ends of the paddles - they're torqued on so tight that no human can move them. I have the thicker paddles that came with the 721rc, could that make a difference? Those bolt heads are pulled tight into all that rubber. The only thing I can think of is that I have to cut the rubber away, maybe with tin snips; perhaps that will release some pressure from the bolts. I could spray with WD40, but I don't think it's soak in anywhere because of the rubber. Anybody have some suggestions? Thanks
Yeah I don't think the thicker paddles would make that big of a difference. I haven't had that problem yet, I do make a point to change any hardware when doing a paddle swap if the bolts are starting to get bad or starting to strip out. Best of luck!
Thanks for the video. It was very helpful. But can you advise if the skid plate height can be adjusted? And is there somewhere to adjust the height of the blades so not to pull up gravel driveway?
The single stage snow blowers typically do not have an adjustable scraper bar. They are designed mostly for concrete, if you want a adjustable hight scraper bar those are usually on the 2 stage units.
Great video. Now I dont have to pay a Toro dealer to do it anymore!
Glad it helped, thank you for watching!
@@amidwestfamily112 You were using a drill driver and a impact wrench ?
@@jmaxs77 yes, you don't have to but if you have the power tools you might as well use them!
@@amidwestfamily112 What size impact wrench are you using : 3/8 or 1/2 ? I'd like to get for this purpose.
@@jmaxs77 I was using a 3/8s impact.
Thank you so much for your video. Do you recommend buying the standard paddle kit or the long life paddles? I only use the blower about three times a season, but it has lasted for 17 years. Put into service back in 2005 in South Bend and then brought down to St. Louis. Just now having to replace the paddles.
I just use the regular paddles, sounds like you got alot of use out of the standard paddles. Thanks for watching!
I used needle nose vice grips to hold paddle in place, and another needle nose vice grip to hold the nut.
Those work well also!
Get you a pair of needle nose pliers vice grips to hold that bolt for ya!
Those work well also, thank you for watching!
Mine were rusted on and the heads stripped out on a few of them. Heat and PB blaster wouldn't loosen them. Had to cut them off.
Sounds like a pain in the butt!
What did you use to cut them? I have the same issue where one bolt stripped and I can’t loosen the nut.
@@halloweendisplaysnowdogfun9016 Dremel tool with cutting discs
I see this was a year ago I’m a female I’ve just purchased my first gas machine I’m a senior citizen I’m all these things! the first use I noticed my paddle has some threads that are loose. I guess ripping through the snow is that normal and is it supposed to be on the ground is the paddle supposed to come in contact with the ground? I sure hope somebody answers this for me.
The rubber paddles are designed to contact the cement, so yes the strings hanging off the paddle is normal. Just pay attention to the wear indicators on the paddles and replace them when they are due. For my unit I change the scraper bar every other time I change the paddles. Thanks for watching!
I notice the bolts are not metric???
I gravitate towards metric tools, I try those before I try the standard stuff. They vary well could be all standard. Thank you for letting me know!
Appreciate the video !
Have you ever come across an issue with newly installed paddles hitting the ground so much that the blower bounces along ? All the bolts are tight on the paddles, the paddles clear the scraper blade just fine ( which is also new ) but it seems like too much of the paddles hit the ground.
I did buy this as a kit for the 721E ( part #’s match manual too ) off Amazon so maybe that’s the issue too 😅
Thanks !
I have not had that problem, the only time it does a hoping or bouncing effect it's from snow buildup on the wheels. Good luck let us know what you find out!
Why you didn’t just get the 721 rc and how long your paddles last?
I wanted the rc model but I could not find any in stock anywhere at the the time, this was the only model I could find. The paddles last around 70 houses depending on concrete conditions and such.
Thanks!
Thank you for watching!
Using the back of the truck looks like a great work bench…..
It works well most of the time.
A year ago I almost shot that dam toro because of those paddles!!! GREAT TIPS
Yeah I bet, thank you for watching!
Did you use a 1" or 2" T-25 Torx Bit?
If you are using a drill or driver I would use the shortest bit you have.
Hey my buddy, i would recommend instead of the duct tape to hold the nut try using a 3/4 dia. Neo. Magnet.. this works great and it’s fast. Thanks
I will have to try that, thanks for the tip!
Thanks.
I now see where I went wrong. I took off all the screws at once and everything took a piss. Should have done what you did one at a time. I like the truck with the duct tape too
Glad the video was helpful!
On a Toro 621, oil will leak out of the breather of the the unit if it is placed on it's back. Just keep the unit titled up at least a foot so it won't. Otherwise, awesome video!
Thank you for the tip, I will be sure to make a note of that next time! Thank you for watching!
Thanks for posting this .... I have a Toro 721QZE and got a bunch of oil in the pickup bed of the truck today. I was wondering where it came from since the oil dipstick was tight and didn't seem to be leaking. Next time I'll probably drain the oil first before I tilt the machine backwards.
Where can I find these parts?
I picked them up at one of my local toro dealers. Write down your model and serial number and they will be able to get you whatever parts you need!
I would have NEVER thought of the duct tape on the wrench to hold the nut.
You could also use long needle nose pliers. Thank you for watching!