Wideband Air to Fuel ratio gauge - Why you NEED it!
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2018
- This is a very very basic explanation of why to have an Air/Fuel ratio gauge and what it is.
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This video is a huge service to all car enthusiasts! Most people do not understand how important it is to monitor your A/F ratio when driving your car hard.
I felt as if I just watched a air fuel gauge video in a 1970s lounge. Good information with background music that made me feel like I was in a columbo video
most underestimated video ever.
Damn you found that the fuel pump was blowing out. That's nuts. To even find that would be the last thing if ever I'd have checked. Lol. Great video. !!
High 13s to high 14s are ok for pump gas and honestly where the most power is. Knifes edge of lean makes the most boosted power as long as there’s no leaks or fuel starvation. Good video 👍
Thanks man, finally understand the purpose of this gauge. Many are telling me to get one for my car, especially once I boost it. Didn't know why, not I finally know lol
Glad I could help
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Awesome video my friend I've learnt a lot. I've been having issues on my evo x. First it was 12 plus at idle... I change my injectors now it's at 15plus. WOT is around 11plus. The 15pkys got me concerned but I was told that the cold outside temperatures can alter the reading,,,so I'm watching
Thanks for the video
I'm restoring a 1997 Land Cruiser would like to add a second water temperature and voltage gauge are you happy with your innovate gauges? I looked at the plx but that's a pretty big commitment for water temperature
Thanks a lot. Less videos has clear explanations like urs. U helped me. 👌
Cold weather changes the AFR with denser air but ideally you do want 11-12 under boost but if you do see a lean condition but not under boost it’s ok it’s not catastrophic as it would be under boost with a lean condition.
I am buying one to tune my mildly modified old school carburetor vehicles. Yes they aren't cheap but without it it is very time consuming and I'd like to remove the guesswork. Can also maximize efficiency
Awesome man! Thanks for the explanation 💪🏻 cheers
Thanks for sharing it did help me to understand how to use my wide band!
My narrow band saved me from blowing my engine a couple of times. That being said I agree with this video AFR gauges will help you.
I've had one for a year literally because my tuner needed it, time to learn for me :)
Good job and thnks for the video I’m sure Uve helped a lot of ppl understand what it is how it works it a bit
quick clear concise, good video
awesome explanation thanks so much.
I am torn between this gauge and the AEM X series. I definitely prefer the look of the innovate, but I keep reading that the AEM is easier to install and does not need to be calibrated. Apparantly these ones need constant calibration?
I just want something I can put in my car that will just work more longer term as I am after a Wideband A/F, Oil Pressure and Boost Gauge for my vehicle.
Great video!
Very informative, thank you pal.
What other gauges would you recommend?
You'd think someone who suffered from a fuel delivery issue would be advocating for a fuel pressure gauge as well so you can see the drop off before it causes it to lean out at higher RPM. Zeitronix has an All In One that won't make your dash look like a light show too.
I installed a catless x pipe and mil eliminators because the 02 sensors don’t read right anymore, because of being catless obviously, how would this affect an AFr gauge? Would it say I’m running rich/lean when it’s not actually running lean/rich??
what is the best one to buy just rebuild my engine 5.7 1990 k5 blazer i got edelbrock carb on there i already have headers so the hole is there for the 02 sensor i converted it from tbi to carb.
What color is your custom gauge pods? Silver or black?
great imformational video awesome
There is already a 02 sensor in the downpipe, can I somehow use this one? What will happen if I replace this with the wideband 02 sensor and remove the current one? Will anything bad happen?
narrow band is ok not that bad .I have used some obd tuners and it works. u can monitor approximately and that's enough for me to find the problem without the help of scanner at first step.
This should be the first mod anyone does to thier car when modifcations are in mind. I just swapped out my sensor after about 3 years just for piece of mind
old ones are proven to work, so a proven example is better for me. I can also exercise mine by running a dry nitrous setup that will cause near instant 15+ AFR
the real way is gain the lambda sensor output from your obd2 data, if other than 1, figure out why
Nicely explained
Can anyone help me to figure out why is my 98 Subaru legacy GT (originally twin turbo, now running single vf34 turbo) on e85 consuming about 20l/100km fuel. Also pretty much doesn't matter in what manner I drive the car. Afr guage shows pretty decent readings. It's not running rich according to the gauge. My tuner doesn't know why it's like this so I'm looking for a help elsewhere.
Hello is it necessary to put wideband on a NA engine?
IS THIS WORKING ON A 1.3 TURBO DIESEL MOTOR
Good video. I couldn’t agree more that a WB AFR is valuable. If anyone needs to install a wideband without a welder, I have an episode over on my channel on how to do it.
Thank you!
helped me so much
Thank you.
do non turbo cars need a wideband AFR gauge?
Good info 💯👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
This is evolution at its finest
Good video
Where did you purchase the gauges and what kind are they?
Thanks
I recommend AEM gauges. You can buy them most anywhere. The gauge pod is a Gruppe-S
thanks
Thanks
What gauge is that whats the part #
Thank you
Hi! Nice video! You have added a sensor (lambda): BOSCH LSU 4.2, or a more modern BOSCH LSU 4.9. (if you knew) LSU 4.9 should be better and faster. Thanks. (According to the picture from the video, it will be one of them, but what?)
Hi, I am running a V8 Chevy small block with a carburettor, now do I need 2 AFR units for each bunk of exhaust line or not? Typically I think since there are 2 separate exhaust lines then I should use 2 AFR units separately for each, is this correct? please help.
Heck no. At the very most weld in a bung in both pipes. Get one kit. Check one side and then tune it. Once tuned, swap over the o2 sensor to check that side. Cap the side you aren't using.
If you got extra money to burn, run 2 sensors and 2 gauges. That would be best but not really worth it in most cases.
That’s a good tip, i also need the rubber spacer where can i get it?
Walbro install kit should come with one.
Richard is correct, buying a Walbro install kit is the only way i know to find one. www.rallysportdirect.com/part/fuel-pump-install-kits/wal-400-847-walbro-installation-kit
That's cool. So you drill and tap a socket for a secondary upstream sensor? Looks like a good diagnosis tool too if you didnt want to do that!
You add a "exhaust bung". A lot of evo people just remove the rear(downstream) 02 sensor and replace it with a wideband 02 sensor.
@@BoostedFilms awesome! Thanks
I need a wideband
Doesn't fuel trim info from a scan tool give you this info?
I have an old truck, going to get a wideband to tune the carb. Sometimes it runs great and sometimes it runs poor and I have no idea if I'm running rich or lean every time I tune the carb
if occasional shitty running, probably an intermittent vacuum leak, which is easy to see if you install a temp or perm vacuum gauge, and this is the best gauge for overall engine health, you want a steady vacuum reading
@@stephenmwyatt2 I have almost every gauge you can imagine, all my temps, pressures, vacuum, volt, tach. Everything reads good except it runs poor sometimes, engine has less than 3k miles on it, I bought this gauge I'm going to install it and see where I'm at as far as tuning goes
no vacuum drop during bad running? it would have to drop, so check again @@ArcticAstrophysics
egt much easier for your situation
Vacuuuuum lockkkkkkk
Just wondering why u had a prosport afr than went to a aem afr gauge
My particular prosport gauge seemed off from what my tuners afr gauge was reading(when both were hooked up at the same time). So I switched to AEM.
What setting do I have my wide band on if I’m using e85?
Not sure i understand your question. What setting do you have to select from?
Use Lambda. It makes the correction for you
@@bicylindrico Can I Use Lambda Even If Tuned On AFR?
@@indiobaez3314 yes
At 1:08 you state “if You see 10 or lower your running rich” and if your 17-20 your running lean. If you’re in the mid 13’s wouldn’t that be the sweet spot or is anything higher than 10 considered lean?? All answers are welcome. I really want to understand this
It depends on what you are doing. If your just idling, you want a Stoich AFR (generally 14.7). But wanting Stoich is not always the case. Maximum power (full throttle AFR's) is usually found with a slightly richer than stoich mixture. These are all generalizations and this video is an over simplification. A Mid 13 AFR at WOT(wide open throttle) would most likely eventually lead to an engine failure.
Can i install that to motorcycle?
Yes you can.
Anything over the 12 AFR's under high load you are losing the added cooling effect in the cylinders. EGT's will rise and you will begin melting parts.
what should you run AFR for e-85 ?
there a few "blow torch" videos where a clear cylinder head is used to see the quench and ignition, and then how a lean conditions forms very quickly
lean burn engines up to 40:1 , so what you say is only true for old engines, and old designs. Modern lean burn engine is built like the industrial GMC V-6 use in dump truck from the 1960's
Run whatever afr nets most power, without seeing detonation or high egt’s. Sometimes the problem is the instruments used to conduct the tuning aren’t adequate enough. Ideally if you could monitor combustion pressure you could tune based off that. Finding the perfect afr is something you have to figure out for yourself. Have to develop your own tuning process.
@@stephenmwyatt2 Get a lambda readout AFR gauge, it shows 1 regardless of the fuel's stoichiometric ratio when balanced. Don't drop below .75, above 1 is lean on any fuel.
I thought the sensor is supposed to be installed on the downpipe? 18inch down the turbo?
Doubt think it has to be. When people dyno cars at a shop and add a wideband to watch AFR’s, they sometimes just stick the sensor a few inches into the rear tailpipe.
@@BoostedFilms cool! I’m getting mines ready to be tuned. the current set up I have is the wide and sensor on the exhaust pipe, just right after the HFC. I was looking into it and I found a lot of differences on where it needs to be. Thanks
Mines bounces around 13-16 is this dangerous for a boosted engine?
At wide open throttle or just cruising? Cruising, that is just fine. WOT, you got trouble.
Boosted Films cruising, I haven’t got to wide open throttle yet
Boosted Films what should it be around at wot?
@@jeepwk6.5L I'd defer to a professional tuner. But generally speaking, high 10's to mid 12's.
Boosted Films ah yeah the one who was gonna tune it actually got shitty with me so I didn’t end up getting it tuned all the way.
You need to adjust your hand brake
could you imagine if all of the smartest people on the planet bumped heads. Einstein use to do something like that to challenge his mind.
Good info dude, but the video game soundtrack...
It's RPM..
No?
Uno es air-fuel y los otros dos que son?
You need to read your spark plugs
I thought that 14:1 was good. Leaner than that is a no no. O probably I'm wrong.
Türkiye'de sadece 1 doğru afr ayarı vardır ve bu bir defa yapıldı mı tamamdır diyenlere anlatmak istediğim konulardan birisi de bu. Yakıt pompasında basınç kaybı afr ayarını bozar ve bu videoda anlatmış. Aynı şekilde hava filtresi doldukça bozulma olur. Bu rafa bazı yeni nesil araçlarda zaten wideband veya benzeri bir şey orijinalinde mevcut
The thing is $400 though 💀
digital gauges are shit, you can not discern the rate of change, like with an analog needle gauge
you don't need that junk.....................
narrow band also useful, but not if you only know about half of the shit you claim to know
stephenmwyatt2 K... Educate me please.
what do you think a narrow band sensor does, what makes it "narrow band", and why did it ever exist if it sucks?
the narrow band is only an average, because it has a slow reaction time, like a butthole thermometer, you need to leave it in your butt for a while
basically, a narrow band sensor is either 0 or 1 volt output, as it gets hot, closer to zero, so you are either lean or you are not lean, and it adds fuel if it is lean. Since it works like this, it only corrects itself when it see the 1 volt, so that means you are running rich too often, at least for fuel economy .
wide band reacts really fast, at least a good reading every second, so the system can be way more precise, and correct for intake heat, air density, or whatever.
If you are using an AFR gauge, it will only have a wide band sensor, the gauge for a narrow band sensor would be a dummy light that comes on when it is above 1 volt although you could wire it all up and it may appear to work correctly , it simply isn't
@@BoostedFilms
@@stephenmwyatt2 A lot of crap exist because people will buy it. A narrowband will tell you when you are rich or lean, but with no precision. You can't tune your car with a narrowband 02 gauge they way you can with a wideband. If you find value and use in a narrowband, more power to you.
@@stephenmwyatt2 Narrowbands are actually, much faster than widebands. Every wideband has a narrowband embedded in it as a reference. The output voltage of a narrowband does vary linearly, within a very narrow range ( hence, the name ), centered around lambda 1.0 With an accurate control system, you can maintain the narrowband output at 400-500mv. Which is what a wideband actually does, internally. That said, the linear output of a narrowband is not repeatable as it is HIGHLY affected by EGT and exhaust gas back-pressure, except, right at lambda 1.0.
This is really cool but then fuel is running out soon... :(
Fuel will be forever lean in like 10 years...
Great video!
Thank you!
Good video