@@D3Sshooter your video suck , you put too much effort into logging and data and you complete forgot where you wire it to and what color wire is the 12v signal with key on …. Your explanation suck …..
I have been doing very similar work on an E-Type 4.2 Jag with triple SU carbs. I am using INOVATE Motorsports hardware with their Logworks 3 software which enables use of my Laptop to capture data. On the Jag it is a little more complex because of the dual, entirely separate exhausts, one for the front 3 cylinders and one for the back 3 but, fed by 3 carbs so that makes adjustment a bit more involved. I presume by your description you are using a non SU carb, perhaps a Weber. In my case I get the same momentary lean mixture on acceleration,l even as lean as 17/1 but car runs perfectly. With the SU perhaps changine daspot oil viscosity might cause a positive change but not particularly worried about this. At idle I am close to 13/1 a bit rich but any leaner and the car does not idle well and using the tried and true lifting of the SU piston I get no engine accleration whatsoever, jusr a decrease in RPM; sign of a lean idle setting. Your explanation was great but think that for best performance a bit rich is better, as you may have suggested. Looking forward to your next video, might you make some particular reference pertaining to SU carbs. Same basics just a little different in the details. Thanks
Thanks for the comments Tom, a lot of good points... Mine is SU and a lot simpler then your car.... One point I should have stated is that the Stoich 14,7:1 is the most efficient burn mixture ... however that does not mean that it delivers the best power or the best engine running ( as you stated, running a bit rich, is better then to lean (temp))...
I consider my air fuel ratio gauge and my vacuum gauge to be very helpful and informative great for tuning (Haltech controlled fuel injection) I have a Ford V8 swapped 1984 Datsun 200SX S12 always consider both Vacuum and AFR gauges!!!
So i have been watching many of your videos in the last weeks, dcoe webers, ignition…. And now this video. Thinking you where english or scotish…… And then see a car with a belgian lissence plate are you actualy from belgium?
Thanks very much for a very well presented and informative lesson, which is so timely for me as I have just fitted an Edelbrock Carb to my reconditioned Rover V8 from RPI Engineering to my Replica Pilgrim Cobra. Just when I thought there was nothing left I could do I now have a great little job on my hands, thanks
Engine Run ON 👆 amplified ignition considering not only fuel to air ratio but also standard good old magneto ignition 👆 that thing culd by used as a vaporiser as well 👆 peopel actualy used heat tubes inside the engine to idel run ore stop👆 basicaly nothing changed histori wise
When you say "above" and "below" Stoich, it's very confusing as numbers go higher it's below Stoich in that it's a higher number (more air:fuel) and as the numbers go lower it's above Stoich (more fuel:air).
The bit you weld on is called a boss here in the uk, and the blanking plug you screw in is called the bung - because it bungs up the hole, bit like stopfung!
Hello! By far the best video on YT I have found showing AFR gauge install, carb adjustments, lean, rich etc. Thank you for sharing sir. Cheers from Motown.
Great Video Shooter... I have a MK2 3.4 Jag with Twin SU carbs. Ive seen your SU instruction videos but wondering if you will be doing one for Twin SU Tuning? GN
Really interesting explanation which I learned something today:). Many years ago I did fit this same AEM AFR to my long gone Twin Turbo Supra (along with many modifications) and found it to be very accurate and reliable, so another recommendation from me for this specific brand. I see the ‘scope out again :)...now if only you can squeeze in a segment with it on an “old Rusty” video lol
On my car (2012) 1.6Di engine, have 2 sensors. How can I find out if its a wide or narrow band sensor? I want to install AFR gauge and getting the signal from existing sensor via piggyback from cables?
Another great video - but one question - on my Weber 40 IDF turning clockwise is leaning the mixture, turning anticlockwise is making it richer. I guess other carbs have it different. Check your spark plugs for the condition.
A little bit off-tipic (on AFR) but on gauges too: I hold a privat pilot licence and on those reciproking small aircraft engines a very useful gauge is standard: the exhaust gas temperature gauge (for each cylinder). It is so useful because it is always the very first indication that engine problems are aboute to rise. And if the fuel-air mixture is set correctly. And another gauge I would like to have is a voltmeter for the battery charging voltage. Last year the voltage regulator of my classic car distributor quit and of course I couldn't have known it. Due to 16 V charging voltage the battery was overheating on the drive, the battery housing failed and the whole engine bay was full of battery acid. Even an overvoltage warning light would have done the trick.
Is the use of ethanol common in European gasoline mixtures? it was promoted firstly as an oxygenate thereby reducing carbon in the exhaust but I don't see that as more than a hill of beans, next it was promoted to generate fuel independence in that you could use our own ethanol rather than imported oil. The fallacy of that argument is that growing the grains and harvesting them plus the transportation uses about an equivalent amount of fuel so there is little savings furthermore the distilling process itself uses a tremendous amount of energy, often coal. Unlike the US most of western Europe doesn't have a grain based agricultural economy and imports much of its grains from such places as North America, Argentina, and the former Soviet states. In the US, the ethanol economy is so large as to be self sustaining, too many parties involved to allow its undoing. Ethanol is generally not good for motors and can be somewhat unstable in fuel mixes especially when extreme cold is involved. I suspect that it gives a small bounce to the octane rating but there are other ways of doing that. What do you know of this? You can of course buy shiploads of cheap ethanol from Brazil, we are not allowed to do that.
Thanks for the comments and write up; We don't have that issue as much here although there is some. It is an issue in general as you just described. Lucky that its not that dominant present here in Europe
Great as always! I’m going to install on my 1973 Volvo P1800es with 38/38 dges clone carb thanks again😎 If it gets lean under acceleration, so I need a larger main jet or a smaller air correction jet?
Thank you, under acceleration its the acceleration pump that shoots in more fuel, so that would need to be the part to adjust. for cruising and normal driving or nearing the end of an acceleration the main jet and air correction jet define the mixture. Hence, you can increase the main jet .
you are a great Teacher. Thanks for the video. so, i just wanna ask, is AFR Gauge necessary or useful for the old diesel engine (not commonrail and doesnt have ECU)?
Having seen your video I am just wondering if the AFR you built does about the same trick as the exhaust gas temperature gauges I mentioned. Their functioning is of course different. The AFR you are showing uses an oxygen sensor and the exhaust gas temperatur gauges use temperature sensors (installed after the exhaust valves).
Awsome I am converting my mk6 transit to ve pump also some hho at about 5Amps so would possibly give me view of what's going on as won't be using the ecu...Great vid
Just to clarify, the ratio is for oxygen not air, also this oxygen is by weight. otherwise for every 14.7 litres of air you draw through the engine you are going to require 1 litre of fuel. now that would be expensive.
Heel interessant. Dank u voor de nuttige info. Heb ik het juist voor hebbbent u de Nederlandse taal ook machtig? Zelf heb ik en mijn Rover P6 vrienden de Rover P6 automaat en “S” V8 en een 4 cilinder. We zijn dan ook erg geïnteresseerd om dit ook te installeren. Vriendelijke groeten van wege de Wattsapp groep p6 vrienden.
by Far the best Video on UA-cam thank you very much. the you very very much for your video's I subbed to your channel, you definitely deserve more subs then what you have
Thanks for the comments, indeed the stoich value is all about the most efficient mixture. However that does not mean that the engine is running or performing at its best...
I already have an O2 sensor in my electronic fuel injection old car with 2 wires. It's an old car and one of the wires is supposed to go to ground and the other is the signal. I connected a narrowband gauge to one of the wires but it looks like a very low voltage is measured, because the needle shows lean. I don't see any difference when accelerating. What can be wrong?
Thanks for the comments, in this video I address the wideband O2 sensor... and that has more leads as it has a heating element inside. In your case that sounds like a narrowband O2 sensor and your gauge may not be suitable for the O2 sensor output. If you have the brand and partnumber of the sensor, then I can provide more info
@@D3Sshooter yes. It's a narrow band o2 sensor. Ecu shows voltage between 0.3v and 0.7v. I will try to measure voltage in the leads with a voltmeter. And see what I get.
I have loaded a look up table for a NB in my tuning software that gives me the AFR, and comparing it to my WB, the values are pretty close even up to 12.5:1. It can definitely help. The oscillations I get at idle or closed loop, if you look at the voltage the amplitudes look pretty high, however, when converted to AFR I actually see variations only between 13.5 and 15.5:1, idling around 14.7, most of the time between 14-14:8. The same thing I see on the wide band. The NB plot in my datalogs follows the WB AFR closely within 0.2:1 even at WOT where the AFR is 12.5 during PE. The NB is also slighy faster, possibly because of shorter cable.
Great video! I just installed my wideband to tune my Weber 38 DGAS installed on my 2.3L 61' Willys Jeep CJ5, according to the AFR, I needed to go leaner on the idle jets, moved to 45, 1 turn out on both mixture screws, now within range. Still rich when I accelerate, running base/ stock 145 main jets. Base/stock air correction jets are 170's. Redline Weber the sole US importer told me the 38 as shipped should be close, but I've found and smelled it to be rich out of the box for my application. I do have a mild cam, 2" exhaust hence the upgrade to the 38 vs 32/36. Not much information out there for regarding these early Jeeps with similar modifications and tuning the 38. I am unclear at what point the air correctors come into play? I assume the main jets not until close to WOT?
Curiosity is the first step to understanding....what went horribly wrong. Just a thought from the days of retrofitting FI. Very kind of you to share your knowledge.
Superb explanation thanks. i have an AEM AFR gauge on my mini and I've been longing to know how to log and fine-tune the HIF44; I'm off to watch the next video
There appear to be different model aem guages. I have a hif44 as well. What model Guage and sensor did you get? Did the sensor and Guage come with all the wiring you needed?
Thanks for posting this video. Its very informative and Helpful. Now I'm headed to the garage to install one on my 74 TR6 with Weber DCOEs. Cheers from the Corvette City!
Thanks! I have been waiting for this video ever since your teaser! I have an AFR gauge and sensor that should arrive this week. This video is very helpful. Going to use on both my MGB and Clubman Estate.
Thanks for the comments, sorry for the late video... good luck... PS don't drive leaded fuel as that will destroy the sensor, and be carefull with lead replacements...
D3Sshooter , both cylinder heads have hardened seats so I am all set. Tight fit for the sensor under the mini. I need to be strategic with placement so it does not rub on the underside.
Yes it can to some extend, but not that drastic. It all depends a bit what you means with Ignition timing. Before any test and work on the fuel system always make sure that the ignition timing is correct
Inspiring subject and so well presented by someone who knows and can explain it too! Very valuable combination! I have a twin-carb set-up, on a Triumph TR3a imported from Canada to UK. It has a pair of different SU carbs than were originally fitted. Burlen say they are OK as they are AUC86*. (From a Morgan +4. apparently). Looking forward to getting to grips with the AFR set-up soon!
As always, huge fan of your videos. Question: how will you adjust the carburetor for more fuel during acceleration? Changing injectors? And imagining cruise ratio is lean or rich: how do you adjust that? Thanks in advance
There are two elements that you can play with , the piston spring (SU carbs), the damper oil viscosity and the needle profile. Check the video's on the SU for details. The main point is that acceleration creates more vacuum, and as such the damper moves upwards , lifting the needle to another station ( position). Hence more fuel can be taken out of the jet... however if the piston lifts up to fast we will lose airspeed and hence the venturi effect reduces. Thus less fuel in the mixture despite the fact that jet /needle is having a larger opening. Therefore the lift of the damper needs to be checked during acceleration, if that goes to fast then more dense oil is needed in the demper. If it goes Wide Open, then the pistion spring is to weak...
you just taught me how to use my afr at idle and then drive and see what adjustments to make and the key i learned is i must have a warm engine before i do any adjustments thank you very much im trying to get ready for smog on 1989 mazda b2200 pu obd1
Wow-this is so helpful and easy to understand! Thank you for being a great teacher!
Thanks for the comments
really enjoyed this video, you explained it perfectly :)
Glad you liked it! Thanks for the comments
it's a bung! you weld on the bung! superb explanation of afr and sensors, look forward to the next part.
Cool, thanks
you are one of the most diversified guys on YT..and master of all you show...
Thanks for the comments, I try
@@D3Sshooter your video suck , you put too much effort into logging and data and you complete forgot where you wire it to and what color wire is the 12v signal with key on ….
Your explanation suck …..
@@groundzero4044 Thank you, it takes a little bit of intelligence to understand this video. I feel sorry for you .
One of the best investments in a carburetor car. With my afr gauge i made a perfect needle. Pulls in every position and no stinky exhaust.
Thanks for the comments, and indeed
Where you said Pulse Code Modulation, i suspect you where meaning Pulse Wdth Modulation.
Thanks for the comments , yes indeed PCM is a communication code sorry as I am a communications engineer I missed it.
I absolutely love you videos. Very well done, you explain things clearly and percisely. Thank you
Sorry for the late reply , as i was away for work. But thanks for the comments.
I have been doing very similar work on an E-Type 4.2 Jag with triple SU carbs. I am using INOVATE Motorsports hardware with their Logworks 3 software which enables use of my Laptop to capture data. On the Jag it is a little more complex because of the dual, entirely separate exhausts, one for the front 3 cylinders and one for the back 3 but, fed by 3 carbs so that makes adjustment a bit more involved. I presume by your description you are using a non SU carb, perhaps a Weber. In my case I get the same momentary lean mixture on acceleration,l even as lean as 17/1 but car runs perfectly. With the SU perhaps changine daspot oil viscosity might cause a positive change but not particularly worried about this. At idle I am close to 13/1 a bit rich but any leaner and the car does not idle well and using the tried and true lifting of the SU piston I get no engine accleration whatsoever, jusr a decrease in RPM; sign of a lean idle setting.
Your explanation was great but think that for best performance a bit rich is better, as you may have suggested.
Looking forward to your next video, might you make some particular reference pertaining to SU carbs. Same basics just a little different in the details. Thanks
Thanks for the comments Tom, a lot of good points... Mine is SU and a lot simpler then your car.... One point I should have stated is that the Stoich 14,7:1 is the most efficient burn mixture ... however that does not mean that it delivers the best power or the best engine running ( as you stated, running a bit rich, is better then to lean (temp))...
Power is on the lean side
I’ve never really understood how o2 sensors work but now I really do, a very good video indeed 👍
Glad it helped
I consider my air fuel ratio gauge and my vacuum gauge to be very helpful and informative great for tuning (Haltech controlled fuel injection) I have a Ford V8 swapped 1984 Datsun 200SX S12 always consider both Vacuum and AFR gauges!!!
Thank you for the comments.
So i have been watching many of your videos in the last weeks, dcoe webers, ignition…. And now this video. Thinking you where english or scotish…… And then see a car with a belgian lissence plate are you actualy from belgium?
Thanks for the comments, yes I am Flemish, born in South Africa, School in the US and now living since many moons in Belgium
Thanks very much for a very well presented and informative lesson, which is so timely for me as I have just fitted an Edelbrock Carb to my reconditioned Rover V8 from RPI Engineering to my Replica Pilgrim Cobra. Just when I thought there was nothing left I could do I now have a great little job on my hands, thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Best videos with the cars I love. Quality images and editing with intelligent explanations. Doesn’t get better than this.
TXS for the comments
Engine Run ON 👆 amplified ignition considering not only fuel to air ratio but also standard good old magneto ignition 👆 that thing culd by used as a vaporiser as well 👆 peopel actualy used heat tubes inside the engine to idel run ore stop👆 basicaly nothing changed histori wise
Thanks for the comments
Such a grand INFORMATIVE video! Thank you for being sooo through and steady camera. ❤👍🏻
Glad it was helpful!
When you say "above" and "below" Stoich, it's very confusing as numbers go higher it's below Stoich in that it's a higher number (more air:fuel) and as the numbers go lower it's above Stoich (more fuel:air).
Thanks for the comments, and yes it is relative
The bit you weld on is called a boss here in the uk, and the blanking plug you screw in is called the bung - because it bungs up the hole, bit like stopfung!
Thanks for the comments,
Some people say an AFR gauge is only useful on vee engines, not inline ones.
This video proves them wrong.
Thanks for the comments, Indeed
@@D3Sshooter Do you use vacuum gauges?
Hello! By far the best video on YT I have found showing AFR gauge install, carb adjustments, lean, rich etc. Thank you for sharing sir. Cheers from Motown.
Wow, thanks!
Great Video Shooter... I have a MK2 3.4 Jag with Twin SU carbs. Ive seen your SU instruction videos but wondering if you will be doing one for Twin SU Tuning? GN
Thanks for the comments, yes I will make one
Great video - just what I was looking for as I'm thinking of adding an AFR gauge to my classic Reliant Scimitar
Glad it was helpful!
I have seen some that requires no welding, you just have to drill a hole.
Enjoyed every minute thank you.
Yes indeed, those also exist
You deserve so much more viewers, oncoming car mechanics could learn a lot from your videos.
I appreciate that!
Long time no see.
I didn't get any notifikation on this one, strange.
Anyhoo quality vid as always.
Welcome back!
That was very professional and interesting. I'll definitely watch that again, hopefully when my Rhodesian Ridgeback pup isn't jumping all over me..
Thought this pertained to classic cars??
It does. Thanks for the comments
Really interesting explanation which I learned something today:). Many years ago I did fit this same AEM AFR to my long gone Twin Turbo Supra (along with many modifications) and found it to be very accurate and reliable, so another recommendation from me for this specific brand. I see the ‘scope out again :)...now if only you can squeeze in a segment with it on an “old Rusty” video lol
Thanks for the comments, indeed Old Rusty is on its way...
I'm very thankful for what I've learned from this man
TXS for the comments
On my car (2012) 1.6Di engine, have 2 sensors.
How can I find out if its a wide or narrow band sensor?
I want to install AFR gauge and getting the signal from existing sensor via piggyback from cables?
Another great video - but one question - on my Weber 40 IDF turning clockwise is leaning the mixture, turning anticlockwise is making it richer. I guess other carbs have it different. Check your spark plugs for the condition.
Thank you for the comments. and yes there are variants on carbs
A little bit off-tipic (on AFR) but on gauges too: I hold a privat pilot licence and on those reciproking small aircraft engines a very useful gauge is standard: the exhaust gas temperature gauge (for each cylinder). It is so useful because it is always the very first indication that engine problems are aboute to rise. And if the fuel-air mixture is set correctly. And another gauge I would like to have is a voltmeter for the battery charging voltage. Last year the voltage regulator of my classic car distributor quit and of course I couldn't have known it. Due to 16 V charging voltage the battery was overheating on the drive, the battery housing failed and the whole engine bay was full of battery acid. Even an overvoltage warning light would have done the trick.
Is the use of ethanol common in European gasoline mixtures? it was promoted firstly as an oxygenate thereby reducing carbon in the exhaust but I don't see that as more than a hill of beans, next it was promoted to generate fuel independence in that you could use our own ethanol rather than imported oil. The fallacy of that argument is that growing the grains and harvesting them plus the transportation uses about an equivalent amount of fuel so there is little savings furthermore the distilling process itself uses a tremendous amount of energy, often coal. Unlike the US most of western Europe doesn't have a grain based agricultural economy and imports much of its grains from such places as North America, Argentina, and the former Soviet states. In the US, the ethanol economy is so large as to be self sustaining, too many parties involved to allow its undoing. Ethanol is generally not good for motors and can be somewhat unstable in fuel mixes especially when extreme cold is involved. I suspect that it gives a small bounce to the octane rating but there are other ways of doing that. What do you know of this? You can of course buy shiploads of cheap ethanol from Brazil, we are not allowed to do that.
Thanks for the comments and write up; We don't have that issue as much here although there is some. It is an issue in general as you just described. Lucky that its not that dominant present here in Europe
Great as always! I’m going to install on my 1973 Volvo P1800es with 38/38 dges clone carb thanks again😎 If it gets lean under acceleration, so I need a larger main jet or a smaller air correction jet?
Thank you, under acceleration its the acceleration pump that shoots in more fuel, so that would need to be the part to adjust. for cruising and normal driving or nearing the end of an acceleration the main jet and air correction jet define the mixture. Hence, you can increase the main jet .
you are a great Teacher. Thanks for the video.
so, i just wanna ask, is AFR Gauge necessary or useful for the old diesel engine (not commonrail and doesnt have ECU)?
Having seen your video I am just wondering if the AFR you built does about the same trick as the exhaust gas temperature gauges I mentioned. Their functioning is of course different. The AFR you are showing uses an oxygen sensor and the exhaust gas temperatur gauges use temperature sensors (installed after the exhaust valves).
Awsome I am converting my mk6 transit to ve pump also some hho at about 5Amps so would possibly give me view of what's going on as won't be using the ecu...Great vid
well, guess my 1966 D200 slant is getting a AFR ! thanks
Just to clarify, the ratio is for oxygen not air, also this oxygen is by weight. otherwise for every 14.7 litres of air you draw through the engine you are going to require 1 litre of fuel. now that would be expensive.
correct.. Thanks for the comments
I watched the SU carb rebuild but totally lost interest in this after 4 minutes - sorry but it took to long for my short attention span.
Is using these kind of gauges on a motorcycle can be helpful to adjust carburetors? Or vacuum gauges are recommended?
yes you can, its all the same
Vacumn guage would show u it too lean out would drop vacumn lean needs different needle
Heel interessant. Dank u voor de nuttige info. Heb ik het juist voor hebbbent u de Nederlandse taal ook machtig?
Zelf heb ik en mijn Rover P6 vrienden de Rover P6 automaat en “S” V8 en een 4 cilinder. We zijn dan ook erg geïnteresseerd om dit ook te installeren. Vriendelijke groeten van wege de Wattsapp groep p6 vrienden.
Bedankt , en ja ik spreek ook nederlands. Dit werkt heel goed maar wel op de juiste plaats installeren
by Far the best Video on UA-cam thank you very much.
the you very very much for your video's I subbed to your channel, you definitely deserve more subs then what you have
Wow, thanks!
Really enjoyed this one. Always good in everything.
Glad you enjoyed it
With EFI systems we generally aim for around 13.5:1 at idle to get most stable idle, will still idle reasonably at a fairly wide range of AFRs though.
Thanks for the comments, indeed the stoich value is all about the most efficient mixture. However that does not mean that the engine is running or performing at its best...
Fantastic as always - really interesting 😊
Thank you! Cheers!
Fantastic video, you've earned a sub.
Make sure you only use the audio from the lab mic, this one has the camera audio as well
Thanks for the comments
I'd always suspicioned my daily intake of coffee kicked in that Stoichiometric thing.
hahaha...
I already have an O2 sensor in my electronic fuel injection old car with 2 wires. It's an old car and one of the wires is supposed to go to ground and the other is the signal. I connected a narrowband gauge to one of the wires but it looks like a very low voltage is measured, because the needle shows lean. I don't see any difference when accelerating. What can be wrong?
Thanks for the comments, in this video I address the wideband O2 sensor... and that has more leads as it has a heating element inside. In your case that sounds like a narrowband O2 sensor and your gauge may not be suitable for the O2 sensor output. If you have the brand and partnumber of the sensor, then I can provide more info
@@D3Sshooter yes. It's a narrow band o2 sensor. Ecu shows voltage between 0.3v and 0.7v. I will try to measure voltage in the leads with a voltmeter. And see what I get.
I have loaded a look up table for a NB in my tuning software that gives me the AFR, and comparing it to my WB, the values are pretty close even up to 12.5:1. It can definitely help. The oscillations I get at idle or closed loop, if you look at the voltage the amplitudes look pretty high, however, when converted to AFR I actually see variations only between 13.5 and 15.5:1, idling around 14.7, most of the time between 14-14:8. The same thing I see on the wide band. The NB plot in my datalogs follows the WB AFR closely within 0.2:1 even at WOT where the AFR is 12.5 during PE. The NB is also slighy faster, possibly because of shorter cable.
Great video! I just installed my wideband to tune my Weber 38 DGAS installed on my 2.3L 61' Willys Jeep CJ5, according to the AFR, I needed to go leaner on the idle jets, moved to 45, 1 turn out on both mixture screws, now within range. Still rich when I accelerate, running base/ stock 145 main jets. Base/stock air correction jets are 170's. Redline Weber the sole US importer told me the 38 as shipped should be close, but I've found and smelled it to be rich out of the box for my application. I do have a mild cam, 2" exhaust hence the upgrade to the 38 vs 32/36. Not much information out there for regarding these early Jeeps with similar modifications and tuning the 38. I am unclear at what point the air correctors come into play? I assume the main jets not until close to WOT?
This is the best description of what they are and how theyer suppossd to work...definatly helps me make my finale choice
Thanks for the comments
What model of aem Guage did you install? I don't see a link to the parts you used?
I try not to promote product but this is a AEM ..Sorry for the late reply , as i was away for work. But thanks for the comments.
Good Video , I gave LIKE and Sub to you
you were adjusting idle mixture screws to change the reading on the O2 sensor?
yes I did at idle
keren, penjelasannya jelas dan perfect
Always very interesting Steve 👀🇦🇺
Glad you enjoyed it
Thanks for the video, I just ordered myself the same AFR meter from AEM, to tune up my Mini properly.
Gasoline has a stoich value of 14.7, E10 is 14.1
Thank you for your videos I love them. Such perfect and understandable explanations! And photographically perfect close-up shots too!
Good man! Loving the engineering debrief + complete install + brief diagnosis
Thanks for the comments
I fitted an AFR to my VW T3 Syncro, it’s nice to know what is going on. Thanks for sharing. 🇬🇧🇬🇧😎😎
Thanks for the comments, and happy with it ?
D3Sshooter ua-cam.com/video/7G39McZjWxc/v-deo.html
I had a lot of fun understanding the Fuel Injection system, and finding that it works very well.
would be interested in how you fix that lean acceleration issue, my mini is really bad for it
That will be the next video or so .. Thanks for the comments
The weld on fitting is called a bung over here in the US.
same for Australia, i like the way it was shaped to the pipe before welding.
Thanks for the comments, a BUNG .... now I know TXS
TXS
Curiosity is the first step to understanding....what went horribly wrong. Just a thought from the days of retrofitting FI. Very kind of you to share your knowledge.
Thanks for the comments
@@D3Sshooter Back at ya for sharing your toys.
An air fart guage? 😆
Thanks for the comments
Greate video! Thansk very much for it.
Thank you for the comments.
Just picked up a second hand AEM AFR with LSU 4.9. Is it ok to power and test it out of the car?
Excellent video, well explained, thanks for sharing 👍
Glad it was helpful!
Where did you connect the live and ground wires please?
Thank you, Life wire to the contact (Key in ignition position ) and the ground anywhere to the chassis
On old engines, it seems that the idle will run better (faster) in the low to mid thirteens. Thought it would be best around 14.7. Wonder why..
Nice content but wideband Lower volts reads rich and higher volts read lean. Therefore 0v = 10:1 and 5v = 20:1 thereabout.
UPDATE: That explains at the end of the video why you went lean instead of rich when you accelerated.
Superb explanation thanks. i have an AEM AFR gauge on my mini and I've been longing to know how to log and fine-tune the HIF44; I'm off to watch the next video
Glad it helped
There appear to be different model aem guages. I have a hif44 as well. What model Guage and sensor did you get? Did the sensor and Guage come with all the wiring you needed?
Whodinni
Thanks for posting this video. Its very informative and Helpful. Now I'm headed to the garage to install one on my 74 TR6 with Weber DCOEs. Cheers from the Corvette City!
Thanks! I have been waiting for this video ever since your teaser! I have an AFR gauge and sensor that should arrive this week. This video is very helpful. Going to use on both my MGB and Clubman Estate.
Thanks for the comments, sorry for the late video... good luck... PS don't drive leaded fuel as that will destroy the sensor, and be carefull with lead replacements...
D3Sshooter , both cylinder heads have hardened seats so I am all set. Tight fit for the sensor under the mini. I need to be strategic with placement so it does not rub on the underside.
Higher voltage = leaner not Rich
does ignition timing has an effect on the measurement of AFR in the exhaust?
Yes it can to some extend, but not that drastic. It all depends a bit what you means with Ignition timing. Before any test and work on the fuel system always make sure that the ignition timing is correct
Well that's two of us that know this stuff. #ToyotaMasterTech.
As always great educational video!!! Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it!
Inspiring subject and so well presented by someone who knows and can explain it too! Very valuable combination! I have a twin-carb set-up, on a Triumph TR3a imported from Canada to UK. It has a pair of different SU carbs than were originally fitted. Burlen say they are OK as they are AUC86*. (From a Morgan +4. apparently). Looking forward to getting to grips with the AFR set-up soon!
As always, huge fan of your videos.
Question: how will you adjust the carburetor for more fuel during acceleration? Changing injectors? And imagining cruise ratio is lean or rich: how do you adjust that? Thanks in advance
There are two elements that you can play with , the piston spring (SU carbs), the damper oil viscosity and the needle profile. Check the video's on the SU for details. The main point is that acceleration creates more vacuum, and as such the damper moves upwards , lifting the needle to another station ( position). Hence more fuel can be taken out of the jet... however if the piston lifts up to fast we will lose airspeed and hence the venturi effect reduces. Thus less fuel in the mixture despite the fact that jet /needle is having a larger opening. Therefore the lift of the damper needs to be checked during acceleration, if that goes to fast then more dense oil is needed in the demper. If it goes Wide Open, then the pistion spring is to weak...
@@D3Sshooter Brilliant explanation, thank you. i might invest in one of these for my riley elf, this would be more accurate than the Gunson colortune.
very nice and informative video .. keep up the good work 👌
Thank you, I will. Thanks for the comments
worth watching 👌🏼
Nice video, well explained. Thank you!
Thanks for the comments
Very nice, informative videos! Thank you very much Sir.
Very informative as per usual! Very envious of all your equipment ... a DIYers dream!
Glad you enjoyed it, well I am an old timer myself and it did not come all in one day
Really cool
Thanks for the comments
V8 MG, great sound, excellent mixture
Thanks for the explanation. Very interesting.
Sensor must be 40 50 cm from the end, that's why you read lean readings, at the 1st test.
At least 18” from the closest exhaust port and 6-8” from where the primaries end. He put the sensor within spec
you just taught me how to use my afr at idle and then drive and see what adjustments to make and the key i learned is i must have a warm engine before i do any adjustments thank you very much im trying to get ready for smog on 1989 mazda b2200 pu obd1
Excelent explanation, thanks very much.
excellent video!
What is that spray you use for the bolts? is it better than wd40?
Thanks for the comments, its nut shock
crc
Very good video and nicely explained 👍👍😀
Thanks for the comments
Outstanding!!
You are supperrb sir..thank from Malaysia.
Great video. Thank you for the detailed explanation
Makes all the sense, no computer to change it for you.
I have an AFR meter I would like to use on my '73 Super Beetle. Where would be a good location on the OEM stock exhaust?
I´m going to put one each side since i have dual carbs...