I bought an Inflatable Paint booth for the workshop, it barely fits | Painting Parts for the D17
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- Опубліковано 25 січ 2024
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#painting #paintbooth #restoration
I want a video of you putting it back in the storage bag.
Hahahaha
LOL!!
Lol
Me too !!!!!
lol, that’s just being mean…
Lacquer thinner or acetone for your wipe down. Mineral spirits leaves an oily residue. Put some on your finger and let it dry and you'll be able feel it.
My brother would always wet the floor down before painting, paint doesn't stick and holds down dust.
Aways ask Pete. He is a wealth of knowledge. Not saying anything bad of you, he knows from experience and knowledge. ❤
Good for you for wacthing Pete . He had painted 3 tractors and working on another one .
glue some hooks on the top of the paint booth and hang the sides and top from the ceiling so it just hand there between jobs
I see what you are saying but for it to maintain its shape it has to have the blower going all the time.
SHOE GOO is your best friend for patching material
My dad the 25 yr spray painter always used thinner that evaporated quickly
I have painted 20 tractors over the years and have always mixed the paint, reducer, and hardener together at once and went straight to painting after mixing and never have had the paint chip like that.
This too shall pass.... Thanks for sharing Evan. We learn from you and are better for the experience.
My gut sank when I realized the only way to fix it. I've been there, re work is the hardest work to do, mentally. Your honesty and strive to do whatever you're doing properly is why I keep coming back to watch. Thank you for sharing and good luck!
Love your videos and comments from your viewers are so very helpful 🧑🔧
You will get it right Hoss! Your work is top notch. Keep your head up Evan, your work speaks for itself.
I never understand when people don’t prime parts they spend so much time cleaning and refinishing. Glad you did, and figured out your adhesion problems.
I enjoy your videos. You make mistakes. You learn. You move on. And the things that you try is cool. The pond Duck Weed problems and how you try thing to fix it is interesting. I watch, Just A Few Acers Farm. And seems to know everything. You are learning and having fun. Keep it up and listen to listeners. But don't take their bad comments to heart. Keep making mistakes and learning. Great channel.
Live and learn. I follow Pete and he has got to be a great resource because of his rebuild experience. Love the channel!!
I think you're just an amazing human being Evan. I'm always in awe at your knowledge and chutzpah of gedderdone attitude
Hey, at least it will make it easy to remove to re-paint!
oops .... love that you put things out warts and all.
"Sweating in" paint is the street name for "Induction Time". In a 2K paint, the induction time is to allow the chemicals that produce the overall bond/hardening to start the chemical process of cross-linking. Adding in the reducer too early probably delayed that reaction and/or somewhat weakened it, but it typically would have still ended up curing. I think your problem is definitely the mineral spirits, which leaves a residue when it dries. For large parts that have some casting texture to them, I would use a scotch brite pad and acetone or lacquer thinner to make sure you get it clean and de-greased, then spray it with acetone straight from a spray gun to "rinse" it and wipe it off with lint free cloth.
Tough to have to redo the back end of the tractor. It is a blessing that you forgot that seal. Otherwise
you may not have discovered the paint issue until all was reassembled.
Thank you Evan and Rebekah! I really enjoy your channel !
My dad use to say we live and learn as we go. You are going in the right direction. It will work better this time. Blessings
just watching Pete(just a few acers)start restoration on another tractor
You might want to contact Pete with Just a Few Acres Farm. He does a lot of farm tractor restorations.
Ya might want to turn the sound on and watch the video
Well if anyone can get back to its original box it will be
Evan because he is a stickly for detail and getting it done😂😊
My early to mid 80's autobody training would lean toward the lacquer thinner whip down and even cheesecloth right before painting the thin coverings as a final prep. We even used wax and grease remover before we even started striping anything. everything can affect your finish in the end, fisheye, cracking etc. Back then we used high pressure low volume paint guns, not the low pressure high volume paint guns used now days, we had to apply multiple coats of paint after dry time and possibly even wet sanding between coats for the best finish.
My wife is an artist and she confirmed that mineral spirits leave a residue so it would be better to just use a good degreaser and wipe the metal dry.
As reading many of the comments on preparation before painting .
There's four things that can affect a great paint job . Dust in the air can also be a little bit of a problem , warmth of the metal and the air temperature before , during and after until completely dry . Just using a small hand held torch to completely dry after wiping down with reducer . Just real quick passing of the torch so locking , flat washers , bolts heads and nuts all get completely dry of any oil as well .
Moisture levels can also be a problem during and after painting .
Evan your lucks as bad as mine but thats the way we learn. You can try a pneumatic needle gun to strip the paint if its just popping off. It'll work especially good for the tight places. Hope this helps. 👍🇺🇸
I have done a lot of painting professionally dealing with Awl Grip paint and Emron paint. When wiping down the surface if bare metal you should use acetone or lacquer thinner. Primer you should spray on a two part epoxy primer. Sand all surfaces with 180 grit sand paper unless you are painting a show car, for equipment 180 grit is fine. Before you paint anything you should use a tack cloth not rags the rag will leave lint behind.
I love all of your videos !! I LOVE YOU GUYS !!!!!!!!! 🥰 🥰
You could try a needle gun to remove the paint, it is a air tool with a cluster of metal needles that when placed on the surface reacts like a jack hammer.
Cheers John.
Paints that thin with mineral spirits are fine to be wiped down prior to painting. I've always been told to clean with the same thing you think the paint with. Some reducers are way too expensive for that; so acetone is usually my go to because it does not leave a residue. Keep in mind that you can wipe your parts with anything, so long as the final cleanup is with the right stuff and all the residual is gone.
Your certainly an honest guy, thanks for the upfront truth on what happened. I would like to think that most folks would be as upfront and honest as you, but sadly that's not always the case. Lessons learned from those types of experiences are a valuable tool to gain knowledge from. Good luck with the stripping and re-prime and paint, I'm sure you'll get it fixed. Thanks and have a good weekend!
I agree with the "don't use mineral spirits" fellow as I always feel it leaves its own somewhat oily film behind. I have always done my final cleaning with lacquer thinner or acetone. I have done old farm engine and machinery restoration for over 30 years now and never had an issue with paint lifting. I too prep everything by sandblasting as well with leaves a good toothy surface to mechanically grab the paint and on many of those I only cleaned the freshly sandblasted surface with compressed air to remove and residual dust.
All good Evan, learning process. You do what you think is right. Thanks for sharing
Nice, It a nice size too.
Proper planning makes for good performance lacquer thinner
Lots of work good luck, Tent paint booth is a good idea
when using automotive paint always clean with lacquer thinner or a prep cleaner, lacquer thinner is also grate to clean your gun so you only need one product.
"Perhaps we should consider hanging the pieces? This way, it could be accomplished in one day. We could use a tall triangular scaffold."
The way that paint was coming off, I think a needle scaler would make quick work of it. Too bad about the "seal of dis-approval", but better you found it now. It's going to turn out great in the end.
Thanks
What a kick in the but. Maybe you saved someone from making the same mistake. Thanks.
I was taught to use Prepsol because it leaves no residue behind... Mineral spirits leaves something on the metal like an oil or something. Was told this by a friend who had experience and by the paint dealer. I am no expert myself. Wishing you the best as always.
Funny sense of humour
@catskinner
you should listen more to Pete , he is the man when it comes to restoring tractors. also you and Rebecca have a new bouncy house for you and the farm animals if the paint booth thing dont work out ! BTW next time you have $500 you want to throw away , I will gladly give you my full name and address so you can send me a check !
Another thing to consider is the temperature of the metal when it was painted. If the shop had been cold before you started getting it ready to do the painting the large mass of the tractor may not have gotten warm enough while the small parts were able to reach painting temperature more quickly. Just a thought...
I always enjoy your videos, keep up the good work.
And since cast iron is porous any moisture in the metal will weaken the bond.
Strip the paint with nitromors, then wash down with acetone, repaint but always with the metal warm, Bakes on application, once on years on!!!
Build a rolling rack like a hanger for clothes then you can hang the smaller parts and it will allow you to get a better job quicker. The large frame may have been cold which will cause adhesion issues you can get lower temperature compatible primers and paint at industrial coating supply but it costs more . I think the lacquer thinner or denatured alcohol is a better choice than mineral spirits especially if it’s cold , prepaint panel wipe is what commercial painters use on lint free rags.
There is a kind a paint remover that separate the paint like magic, get it.
Try a needle peaner to remove the old paint !
Another product to use is acetone and or lacquer. When I moved to our new place in the building there was a make shift paint booth which i took down. Use a wire wheel on an angle grinder to help remove the paint and if it doesn't all come off, leave it and wipe it down. Mineral spirits has oils in it.
It’s a tractor! It’s not the Space Shuttle! LOL
эван мне очень нравятся ваши видео.
Mineral spirits leaver a slight oily film. Lacquer thinner completely evaporates. The lacquer thinner also should be compatible with the paint.
Great video I love your channel!
Before you start stripping the paint on the rear end of your tractor… don’t forget to thoroughly cover your gas heaters. They are very sensitive to dust particles. Good luck Evan 👍😃.
The more reason not to strip and flake it off. Seal it with your new blend of paint.
Mineral spirits leaves an oil residue when dry. I ve been in paint industries for 25 years. Lacquer thinner or acetone will work something that has a high flash point. Also simple green is a great cleaner.
I hope you figure it out. Nothing more real than showing your mistakes to the whole world on youtube. I appreciate your honest approach to showing the good and the bad. Looking forward to seeing how it turns out. Take Care!
Forget the paint booth. Use a tarp on the floor. As for the tractor, If you strip it, maybe a heat gun would help. I would first try cleaning a small part and then over spray with the new paint to see if I could get a durable overcoat that bonds well.
Hmm, lots of comments about prepping . I am not buying this being related to mineral spirits. Remember, M.S. are used by nearly every mfg to thin the paint. I think you had some kind of adhesion problem to the actual frame. You did mention the primer was old. I would look there first. Bottom line is that this is great vid to help all that paint. Nice job sharing the experience !
THE BEST THING IS ACETON DOES NOT LEAVE A RESIDUE AND TACK COLTH FOR THE DUST
to clean a surface you need to use something that is not made from an oil product. most mineral spirits are oil-based products. what I have used is vinegar and it works great and is not as corrosive as lacer thinner
That is frustrating. Keep at it.
acetone or laquer thinner. no mineral spirts
So happy you are back and all the best for your future adventures love your videos and all the best to you and your wife and your family mate
Evan, just a suggestion, I have a friend that paints a lot and he uses a large thick plastic tarp and he covers the floor and he paints on a table in the middle and he has no over spray. When he is finished he lets it dry and folds it up until he needs it again!
Live and learn... You teach me something new almost every time I sit down and watch you guys. Keep up the good work!
I’m not an expert Evan but I always used a painting degreaser and have always been pleased with the results.
I remember when I was a younger man years ago I was alot like you, always rushing to finish a job, I finally learned to take my time and get it right the first time, other than that you do great work on pretty much everything you do, great video
It looks like a bouncy house 😁😁😁
On metal, any kind of "Thinner" can leave a film! I find that if I clean with Acetone there is no film left to compromise the paint adhesion of the paint! Everybody makes mistakes, they are learning opportunities!
I agree the mineral spirits is the problem, it dorsnt evaporate fully and leaves some oil
Sorry about your paint problems. Great to learn some issues to watch out for. Nice to see a married couple working together even in the paint booth. A great demonstration of commitment to each other. Thank you for a great video!
Just wet the floor a little bit paint a land on the border. And then he mopped and cleaned it up
Acetone is an excellent cleaner for a finale wipe down before painting equipment.
Country View Acres Bounce House
❤️👍👍👍
I appreciate that you share the challenges and the successes. Most projects come with challenges. Best.
Sorry for that my friend. Which I was near to give you a hand😊❤
Clean with lacquer thinner works way better. Doesn’t leave any petroleum on the surface
you can also use acetone or denatured alcohol. mineral spirits leaves an oily film.
If your able to get it out the shop and keep water out the rear end a pressure washer would probably knock it off pretty easy
To degrease metal you could use Acetone that really works well and it is used in the metal industry.
Go to Harbor Freight and get a bead blaster to remove the paint off the axle.
Looking like you have your work ahead of you take a wirebrush to it paintbooth is cool
Mineral spirits leaves an oily film, 100% that is your problem. We always used final wash or lacquer thinner before painting
I use acetone or mek (methyl ethyl ketone) as degreasers. As others have typed, mineral spirits is close to diesel fuel, e.g. oily.
This is not a criticism, just a guy that does similar things. I work at a dealership where we have a body shop. I restored a case 1394. The paint supplier recommended using imron because it's what the industrial paint shops use. Compared to the $100 a gallon that paint you are using I think it was $260. Plus the primer. With that, the amount of effort it takes to clean parts id recommend a professional paint product. My wife and I were mounting the loader mounts and it slipped and fell, put a hole in my driveway, and the paint was still intact. Just one guy to another advice. Good luck my friend and thank you for the videos. P.s. imron dry time is a longer so account for that, and I recommend wearing a tyvec suit or you will be orange
Hi. You can also use acetone to wipe down your parts before spray.
I use a Coleman 8 man tent as a paint booth. lol.
Back to the painting, due to the issues you are having I think you are correct the primer is the problem. You will need to remove all the paint that was applied. The best way to remove the paint would be paint remover and a high pressure sprayer. I know this is a real pain but it would be the quickest way to handle the problem. One thing to note you will need to dry the cast iron after you finish stripping so you will not have rust forming on the surface of the cast iron. Warm air / heat gun will do the trick. If you do get surface film of rust here is a treatment for that you can buy at most body shop paint facility’s.
I've got a friend that owns a body shop and I believe he almost always uses acetone and denatured alcohol to do his wipe down.
Mineral spirits is not ideal for paint prep. Others here have given good options. I purchased a "Sure Shot" Steel model A in either the 1000 or 1002 for spraying bulk chemicals like degreasers and solvents. Model 1000 you have to unscrew the tip and remove a little insert to get a stream spray. The 1002 includes an rotating adjustable tip like found on a heavy duty spray bottle. Fill them 3/4 or so with chemical and use an air compressor and tire chuck to pressurize up to 150PSI.
i would use acetone to clean with! it works great and drys fast!
Ouch! That bit you good! Live and learn, great video!
I always use acetone
You created a monster