Here in 2024. Love 14yr old UA-cam videos.. I'm swapping my vacuum locker for manual lockers. Great video 🤙 amazing how old this video seems... the audio and all. Like time travel. Thanks for posting this in primitive internet days!! The good old days.
You can always compile your own list of videos for a playlist in UA-cam (and i'm totally cool with you linking my videos into a playlist), but I do also have them grouped into a playlist already (along with some other truck and 4x4 related content I've made: ua-cam.com/play/PLTxEXQ674ZOJlyEriqcd3xb6MZKdosVxY.html
I will add this, as a mechanic i believe that this guy knows wtf he's talking about. I would trust him working on my 30year old yota land cruisaider, 4runner etc.. much props wheeliePete yota man! 4 documenting this for them diy'ers
Thanks for the compliments. I've gotten a lot better over the years at making these videos. I eventually did make the video on how to properly reassemble the pawl and clutch assembly of the hub dial. If you haven't seen it, you might want to check it out. (I think it's probably the best video I've made to date...) ua-cam.com/video/W78RkF1mUOE/v-deo.html I also lumped my toyota videos together into a playlist that can be accessed from my channel's home page.
I recently moved into a property with a huge shop so that I can do more filming. The goal is this summer to do more Toyota repair videos and front hub bearings is on the list.
Have a 1992 Toyota truck with one of the manual locking hubs very hard to turn. So, this really helped take the mystery out of how to remove and either replace or add a bit of grease! I hope my 1992 is not too different!!!!! Thanks
Thanks for the info. Nice video. I changed a flange today because it was cracked as a result of me hammering it on the side to get the cone washers out. I used your method this time. A couple of the cones were stubborn but they came out eventually, and no cracked flange this time!
Good deal! I'm glad you got them out. On really stuck ones I also like to soak them in penetrating spray like PB Blaster, and you can heat up the studs with a propane torch if they are REALLY stuck. But generally the brass drift gets the job done nicely.
Thanks Pete. I'll keep that in mind. I have a small propane torch if needed. My hubs are not original Toyota, my cruiser didn't have them factory fitted.. it's an all wheel drive model converted to part time 4wd. George, Australia.
Be sure to watch this video on the hub dial reassembly I did also. It will also prove helpful if you're working on an AISIN hub: ua-cam.com/video/W78RkF1mUOE/v-deo.html
This video is so freakin old and yet so usefull for me today😅 i was laughing so hard when I hit the pins carefully and the cone rings popped of. I appreciate your video and thank you very much for your effort! Greetings from Germany!
Thanks for the cone washer tip! It worked great. The ones on my '88 truck probably have never been out and I didn't want to damage the hub housing. In the past on old Dodge trucks you can smack them with a ball peen hammer since they're steel and won't be damaged.
Pete, greatly appreciate the quality of your video. your experience comes through. look forward to more ,as you're a great communicator,concise and in depth with quality info . you're a very good teacher .really hit the spot for me . thanks muchly aussie jim
Doing an HD remake of this video is on my list of stuff to do. It's hard to believe it was 11 years ago that I made this. Time flies. Thanks for watching!
I really know nothing about how to fix cars although can just get by with minor stuff.It was simple what you showed but it was fantastic non the less..Well explained and easy to understand...I loved the two nut tightening thing and if you do shear a bolt off to get a dremel,make a groove then use a screwdriver to remove..I also liked that clip removal tool...Thanks for sharing..
The haynes manual is like a grade-school reader. The factory service manual (FSM) is like a graduate level textboox. Trust me, if you can get your hands on a factory service manual you will never pick up a haynes manual again. The FSM breaks down every single part of a repair in detail with either a picture or an illustration for each step. They are awesome to work from.
Heating the locking hub body down by the cone washer may expand the hub body enough to help release the pressure on the cone washer. Another try might be to see if you can actually get a tapered punch into the split on the cone washer to try and tap it around and loosen it up. But before everything, soak the cone washer in penetrating spray and really put some force into the brass drift. I've had some NASTY ones and they've all eventually come out with the drift and sledge.
Cool video! Got a flat the other day on my 1994 Toyota Pickup...Took the 6 lugs off and she wouldn't budge. It seems the manual locking hub is in the way and needs to be removed. Thank god it didnt go flat on the freeway or something...lol.
No problem, I hear what you're saying. I'm working on another Toyota tips & tricks video right now. Will hopefully have it up by the end of this weekend.
Nice one bud, you know your stuff. I'm watching 'cause I plan on converting my '89 stock auto hubs to manual. I'm excited to get them babies on, so I can realize I need 4X4 once I'm in a puddle.
Thanks Adam, if you haven't seen it yet, check out my very detailed video on how the locking hub dial/clutch assembly goes back together. That assembly is one of the things that people often don't get correct and then think their hub is broken (will lock but not unlock). If you liked the above video, you'll love this one. ua-cam.com/video/W78RkF1mUOE/v-deo.html
@WheeliePete Thanks for getting back to me so quick. I have to replace them because there is not much to resurface them. I have the new ones just needed further info for the hubs because I 'm a novice when it comes to those. This will take some of the pressure off after watching this. Wish there was a easier way to get them off. I think I may just make it a weekend project to do the rotors and ball joints since it'll all be jacked up and took apart. Thanks again
@bats28 You might check to see if you can just have the rotors surfaced. If you can, it means you won't have to take them off the hubs (you will still have to remove the locking hubs as pictured in the video), but you won't have to press the wheel studs out of the actual hub body. If you are replacing the rotors you'll need to press the studs out of the hub body as the studs pass through the rotor and are pressed through the hub body.
thank you for taking time to reply...my problem is im in Sudan...and we are bombarded with chinese imitation parts....i was thinking of maintaining the original toyota one i have, but guess i will need to find a way to ship one in.....thanx again.....and great tuts
@nerdlinger2 You've got an IFS (Independent front suspension) truck and they use a different type of axle so you probably don't have the snap ring there. the truck in the video is a 1979-1985 style solid front axle with Birfield joints. As for the cone washers, soak the area in penetrating spray (PB Blaster is my fav.) and really lay into it with the brass drift and sledge. You may have to heat the area gently with a propane torch.
I will try and upload a video by monday night to show u where i am at with it.I didnt know anythign about pre loading anything.Do u have a link or a in detailed list on how to go about this?I cant waite to see what it looks like with the front lift installed.I appreciate you replying back so soon.what manual do you recomend i buy or get to do this pre load research on?Ty for any replys man,You The Man.
The problem with prior owners beating on the body of the locking hub is that the flange where the locking hub body attaches to the wheel hub gets VERY VERY thin right where the cone washers are. So when people beat on that area they can deform the very thin wall of the locking hub body where the cone washer's tapered hole is drilled. Once that area is deformed it can lock up the cone washer and keep it from releasing. This is why you should never, ever, pound on the hub body...
I've seen aisins blow up, but it's usually a failure of the inner gear exploding under EXTREME use (huge tires, lockers, full throttle assault in the rocks kind of wheeling, etc.) It's my opinion that the WARN is not a better hub than the Aisin. The main reason people put a Warn on is because they didn't reassemble the Aisin properly and it engaged, but then didn't disengage, they thought it was broke, and replaced it. I'll do a video in the near future about proper reassembly of the Aisin.
By far the most informative video for this!!!!! Thanks very much. Do you have a video for a Toyota front wheel bearing change?!? Need to know the ft lbs for loading the bearings!!
There's a blind hole in the end of the burfield stub shaft that's threaded 8x1.25 (IIRC). You can stick a bolt in it and grab that with pliers to help pull the axle out a little bit when you go to install the snapring on the end of the axle. That hole can also be used to attach a puller to the end of the birfield stub shaft if you hare having a hard time pulling it out of the knuckle ball. There shouldn't be a bolt in in when you are driving around.
It goes, outer wheel bearing bearing, thrust washer (the big flat one with the single tooth, then a big nut, then the star washer, then the other nut. But you have to do the pre-load adjustments. Best to get a manual and go through it right or you will screw up your wheel bearings. Snapring goes on the end of the axle shaft right before you put on the locking hub dial.
@sleepybone321 If you have manual locking hubs that are unlocked and you switch to 4x4 in the cab all you are doing is spinning your front drive axles. The hubs need to be locked to transfer power from the spinning drive axles to the wheels. The hubs lock the axles to the wheels.
Great detailed vid! Quick question- I've got a Suzuki Vitara(Sidekick in the States I think) and the manual hubs are totally seized on the 'Locked Position'. Can I disassemble the hubs from this position, or does this mess everythingup?
Does it make the sound when 4wd is engaged also? Or just when in 2wd with the hubs locked? If it's only in 2wd with the hubs locked I would take a hard look at your front driveline. When you use 2wd with the hubs locked in you're putting spin in the driveshaft from the front axle instead of from the transfercase. This can cause some pretty strange sounds. Another thing might be wheel bearings, or carrier bearings in the differential. continued in next reply...
Any Chilton's or Haynes manual will have the directions, but I only use Factory Service Manuals (FSM's) as they have the ultimate authority and true step-by-step procedures. It's totally worth it to buy a set for your vehicle or go find a download at e-bay.
Ok i watched it thats a definit easy way to do it.Preload on my 1986 sr5 turbo 4x4 manual locking hubs, was as follows 1st- Tighten Nut to 41 lbs torque.spin it to right around 5 times, Spin it Left 5 times. 2nd-Tighten Nut To 41lbs again.Spin it right 5 times.Spin it left five times. 3rd- Losen nut,Spin it 5 times left.Spin it 5 times right. 4th- Tighten nut to 21lbs torque and your done. I did have a prob with hub dial not turning.Have to remove it n see whats up.....
@jason127x99 Don't need the 54mm socket to remove the locking hub. You'll need the 54mm socket to remove the actual hub itself from the spindle. (The two 54mm nuts are actually holding the wheel hub (wheel hub has the wheel studs pressed into it) and wheel bearings on the spindle.) I'll be doing a video in the near future on how to remove the hub as a unit from the axle so you can remove the Birfield and inner axle shaft without losing wheel bearing adjustment.
Thanks, this is one of the most useful videos I've seen for working with the old solid front axle Toyotas. Do you by any chance have a video on how to replace the front wheel bearings? If not, any tips? Thanks!
+Rudi von Staden I don't have a video for front wheel bearings currently (but it is on my list of things to do!) The biggest tip for the front wheel bearings is to get the socket for install and removal of the two spindle nuts. They are 54mm so it's a big socket. Best bet is to get one of these from trail-gear. : www.trail-gear.com/TG/54mm_Axle_Socket/i_0_0_3482/_140157-1-KIT.aspx#.VkC1zGeFOUk
WheeliePete Thanks for the tip! I hear from other Hilux owners in South Africa that the standard water heater element spanner fits perfectly, and they are available from most hardware stores (not sure if it's an international standard). Only problem is they need to be modified if you need to torque them.
+Rudi von Staden Hmmm... maybe they have a different element standard than the U.S. because the socket I use for water heater elements is 1.5" which is only 38.1mm The spindle nuts on the early solid axles take a 54mm socket.
@et0307982 The axle in this video is a 1979 - 1985 type axle. The later model locking hubs are similar, but not quite the same. You're not going to have the lockring on the Tacoma because it has CV shafts where the early solid axle trucks have Birfield joints. The same principles apply for removing the locking hub body on all the years though. Good luck.
@XlElementXl Doesn't matter. You can lock in the hubs and run around in 2wd on the gravel roads shifting into 4x4 only when you need it. The only problem is that if your front driveshaft is unbalanced or sloppy, you will hear a lot of noise from it as the drive shaft will be getting spun by the axle instead of being powered by the transfercase. It's not really that big a deal though. I'm uploading a new video right now on how to bombproof your steering stops. Check it out!
I am picking up my lock washers tommorow at dealership.I purchased a torque wrench for the bearing preload portion of the rebuild.i will be torquing all bolts to spec on my truck.I was thinking of just making 3 inch spacers for the u style hardware bracket that holds the sway bar in its stock place. Truck wont start unless i spray starting fluid in airintake.once it starts it runs mint.Where would you tackle this problem at first? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Dave.
Hey great video. I have a 87' 4runnerthat I need to change my rotors on and it looks like the hubs will need to come off. Is this true? Or am I looking at it wrong. If you have a vid on doing ball joints too that'll be awesome.
Great video. Very informative. What about the front wheel bearings? I have a 98 tacoma 4 x 4 2.7. I am a little mechanical. I just did the front brakes and rotors, new starter etc. I don't know how to tell if the wheels bearing are good or bad. I suspect that the front right might have a problem. When I spun the wheel after replacing the brake it sounded a little rough and it wasn't brake noise. Can you advise on that?
The dial itself has a shaped o-ring that you should put a light coat of grease on. Also a nice light coat of grease on all the friction parts inside the hub. Anywhere you get metal to metal contact should have some grease.
If there were supposed to be drop brackets, any spacer should work. On the solid axle trucks the sway bar extensions are in the form of longer bolts and sleeve spacers. I haven't messed with the Independent Front Suspension trucks much though...
Hello WheeliePate, thanx very mauch to try to teach us about your experience on hub locks. I have Land Cruiser prado 70 series that uses electrick hub locks, iam not happy with them, i would like to convert them to manual locks. what do have to do? I just buy a manual kit and essemble it or is necessary to altere something on hub host at may car? thanx i iam sorry for may break english, iam from Mozambique and i peak portuguese.
What happened to the 12mm nut on the end of the axle? When you took the hub dial off in the first minute there should have been a 12mm nut in the center of the axle.
Thanks WheeliePete. Excellent video. I have a 1993 Toyota 4x4 pickup with IFS. It doesn't have the snap ring, but it does have a 12mm bolt and a large washer on the end of the axle, just under the locking hub cap. Any suggestions on how to keep the bearings and axle shaft stationary when trying to undo the 12mm bolt and washer? You have been a lifesaver so far, I wouldn't have tackled the job, but my son lost the front passenger side wheel and sheared 3 lug bolts after someone was interrupted trying to boost his new tires and wheels.
I *think* if you put the transfercase in 4wd and the tranny in gear it should bind up the front differential enough to be able to unscrew that bolt (as long as the front driveline is still attached to the differential.) All my trucks have manual lockers in the front axles so putting the t-case in 4wd locks up both axle shafts. I can't remember if that will work with an open differential or not though. Maybe someone else will chime in who's had to deal with that...?
@hiredhandful You *should* be able to remove the hub with the dial in the locked position. the only thing will be your locking cog will be extended. I'll be doing a video soon of how the inner guts work on these style of hubs and how to rebuild them. If your dial is frozen it's either because there too much nasty old solidified grease or dirt, or because you ball-detent has jammed in the dial cap, or there's something seriously wrong inside the mechanism.
I'm sorry, I don't have any of the auto-hubs laying around. I usually yank them off switch to locking hubs on 2nd and 3rd gen trucks. What year are you dealing with? I may be able to e-mail you a page from a factory service manual on reassembly and / or an exploded diagram if I have the right year...
ok ty will take a look for that banjo fitting.Question for you.If u know.can i take a rear break line and hook it to front break line on my truck?I repacked my bearings today got passenger side all hooked up.All but the break line etc.to short with the 3 inch lift.would rip line if i installed it to lift.I bought new shocks front and rear jusr before i decided to install lift kit.Front ones are 3 inches short from factory set hole for top of shock.Where to get spacer?extention? HELP...
Hey Pete!! best vids ever! do you know if there should be a bolt and washer in the end of the transaxle behind these hubs? when I opened my (milemarker) hubs it was like that...
I've seen that too over the years, mainly on hubs I took apart after auto locking hubs were introduced. It's not necessary under the manual locking hub dial. The threaded end of the birfield stub shaft allows you to have a bolt in there to help with pulling that joint and axle shaft out of the knuckle and differential.
AWESOME video's btw; definitely going to subscribe! Have a question. I'm looking at an '85 4Runner this weekend; solid front axle w/ manual locking hubs. Just wondering whats the best order when locking the hubs. Example; if I pull off onto a service road is it ok to lock the hubs first (still in 2WD) then if I need 4WD activate it afterwards OR should I leave hubs unlocked, activate 4WD THEN lock the hubs or does the order matter? Thanks a lot for the video's!
Hi, wheeliepete. I would like ur opinion and/or advise on an incident my family and I experienced yesterday on our 1994 land cruiser with under 130k miles- we were on the freeway and thought my husband hit some type of road debris. I saw something fly off near the truck. When we got to our destination, he can feel something off about our truck. We examined the tires and under the car and did not notice anything out of the ordinary then my husband noticed the right front tire was missing 5 (out of 6) of its lug nuts and with further examination saw that 4 of the wheel studs were broken off. We could have had a serious accident, needless to say. So four or five hours later we finally found a place that made the repairs and got home safely. Is it normal for what happened, happen? For four out of 6 wheel studs to break the way it did? Is it wear and tear or are we looking at vandalism? We’ve experienced a few vandalism to our cars since we moved to this sketchy neighborhood and can’t wait to get out. Thanks, wheeliepete!! Enjoyed ur video and learned a lot from it!!
A couple things come to mind #1 someone (probably a tire shop) in the past may have overtorqued those studs and stretched past their limit which makes them weak and ripe for breaking off on the next big impact. (Could have also not been properly torqued and just came loose which would allow the wheel to work back and forth on the studs and shear them off...)#2 Which wheel was it? If it's one the driver's side wheels, there's a physics principle called "Mechanical Precession" that basically states when you have a nut that is regular "righty tighty" threads (clockwise to tighten) and you constantly spin the whole assembly counter-clockwise (like the wheels on the driver's side are doing), the nut will loosen over time. (wikipedia article on mechanical precession: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Precession_(mechanical) If the nuts were all coming loose on that side from mechanical precession, then once they get loose enough to allow the wheel to move a little bit all the time, it will wear on the studs and can shear them off. (I've seen this happen A LOT with 4x4's that don't don't check their lug nuts after aggressive wheeling trips.) Sooooo....if it was because someone overtorqued those studs, you will want to check all 4 wheels because the same gorilla probably did all 4 like that. If it was just the driver's side coming loose, then I would get in the habit of checking torque every so often (which isn't a bad idea just in general.) There's another thing too and that might be someone put the wrong type of lug nuts on for the rim. Different types of rims require different styles of lug nuts (where the lug nut interfaces with the rim.) A tire shop could tell you pretty quick if the lug nuts are correct for the rims. The wrong lug nut to rim style might also be prone to coming loose. So long answer, but, no, it's not normal for a properly mounted and torqued wheel to lose 5/6 lugs and shear off 4 studs. I'm really glad you didn't jettison the wheel at speed. I think you got really lucky!
curious, when you pulled the locking hub cover off, why didnt the axle have the bolt and washer? been curious about people who use the bolt/washer vs just clip vs both. seems to be a variety to the consensus
The bolt and large washer are found under the hub cover of the Toyota auto-locking hubs. Both my 1985 and 1988 (1985 being the last year of the solid front axles in the U.S.) factory service manuals show it on the end of the axle shaft under the hub cover of the exploded diagram for the Toyota AUTO-locking hub assembly. They were not found on the MANUAL-locking hub assembly diagrams from 1979-1995 in the U.S. In 1986 and after I see them showing up on BOTH the manual-locking and auto-locking hub diagrams in the factory service manuals. In the old solid axle manuals, the threaded hole in the end of the axle is also used for, if you need it, installing a bolt that you can use pull on and to hold the axle stub still while you install that outer snap ring. I'll post a couple snapshots of the service manual assemblies in my community feed if you're interested in seeing them.
@@WheeliePete interesting. I have an ADD setup. Recently did a cv and noticed I didn't have a snap ring, just the bolt and washer. I'm about to slap on some warn manual hubs, but not I'm wondering about the snap ring. Can I just use the bolt and washer in lieu of the snap ring, or will it not fit with the manual hub?
I just updated my last comment Ray. I started looking at the factory service manuals and it looks like they put the bolt and washer on the manual hubs too and starting in 1986. If you're putting on WARN hubs you'll need a diagram of how warn wants the guts installed. I'm not sure how they go on. We always used to yank the WARN hubs and put Toyota AISIN ones back on if we ever got a truck in that had them, the AISIN is superior design in my opinion. Most people have problems with the AISIN hubs because they were taken apart and installed incorrectly. See this video I did addressing that super-common issue that makes people think the hubs are broken, when in reality they are just assembled incorrectly by the last person who took it apart. ua-cam.com/video/W78RkF1mUOE/v-deo.html
@@WheeliePete awesome, thanks for the useful info. I originally was going for aisins, but I saw a lot that was up for sale on offerup from a guy who converted to front solid axle. So I have his whole front drop out including the warn hubs and good cv's. 100 bucks =)
Good deal! I just posted a bunch of the schematics from the different years auto/manual hubs over on my channel's community tab. I also noticed that there appears to be a difference in the bolt/washer combo between the auto and manual hubs. The auto hubs appear to have a cupped washer that the bolt sits down in and the manual hubs look like they had a flat washer.
I have a 98 with stock locking hubs, i just bought it a few months ago, i can tell that the passenger side locking hub was replaced at one time, about a month ago i had to use my 4wd on sand then when i was done i noticed my passenger side hub would not disenguage like you said at 2:00 in this video. since then ive been to busy to work on it till now. so i have been drivving with both locked in(hopfully thats ok). I am actualy and ase certified tech. but have little experience with 4wd. HELP
I forgot to mention the rub is not constant. On my 15 min drive home it will happen 2-4 times 10-30 second bursts. And I havent had it happen on one of our recent 50 degree days just when its cold. I havent had it happen in 4wd but it will snow tomorrow here and I'll have plenty of time to test that out. thnx for the quick response!
Hopefully somoene will chime in here on the subject. I don't have that much knowledge with the early 22RE trucks. I think there is a cold start injector of sorts in there somewhere, If I remember right there is a banjo fitting on the side of the intake plenum that injects gas directly into the intake for cold start? I jsut can't remember at this point. Fuel/Air/Spark...it's one of those three...
@WheeliePete I should add, that pressing studs out of the hub body is a total pain in the ass if you don't have a hyraulic press. It can be done with a hammer/drift/socket setup, but you better get a friend to help you.
Pete, I recently bought my first toy pickup and now when I'm driving with hubs locked but in 2wd when it's cold out (30 or below) I hear a loud rubbing sound coming from my drivers front wheel area. I took off the wheel and looked around, tugged on things. Nothing seemed loose. I'm wondering if the vibrating and rubbing could be a hub going bad. When I slow down the rubbing sound does too. What do you think?
Well, right up until it doesn't... Which is why they make aftermarket chromoly ones like this: www.lowrangeoffroad.com/trail-gear-4340-chromoly-hub-gears-inner-and-outer-301506-1-kit-303107-1-kit-303108-1-kit-301507-1-kit.html
...continued...pull the front driveline and then run with the hubs locked and see if there's noise. In not, then you've isolated it. Removing the DL is easy so that's why I'd go there first. If that doesn't do it, unlock one hub, then the other. You're just using process of elimination before you have to dig into the guts of the front end. I'll be doing a video on the locking hub rebuild process soon....
hey Pete question for you.I dont have the 3 inch sway bar drop brackets for my ifs lift kit.Can just use 3 inch polyethelene blocks n drill holes and add 3 inch longer screws to hold stock brackets in place?I see from pics they look like there angeld.off set by a inch or less.Any idea. 1986 sr5 turbo 4x4 manual hubs..?? TY for any info.Got my lock rings and picking up my lock washers from toyota dealership tommorow.So I CAN REASSEMBLE WHEELS ETC ETC.
@WheeliePete Oh great! Thanks so much for the reply. Watched your new video; was really really good. It's amazing how a little mod like that can/will be so useful; along with the brake line mod. Can't believe Toyota's engineers never thought of that (like you said) hah. I hope you continue to make video's like these; there so useful and informative.
i put manual hub lockers on my 99 ford ranger and i was wondering if i leave them unlocked and turn the switch in the cab to 4hi will i have 4wheel drive or do i have to lock the hubs to get 4 wheel drive?
Hey I got a question I have 1981 Toyota pickup 4wd and am doing a rotor change, I’m stuck on the rotor off or hub? It has 6 studs how do I get those off?? They’re stuck on good? Just bang them out with some brass
Uggh... I've also got an '81 front end and they had pressed on rotors (I think it was that way for 79-83 on U.S. 4x4 trucks?) The lug studs are pressed through the rotor and hub holding the rotor to the hub. You have to press the lugs out to remove the rotor from the hub. Then you have to press them back together. If you can, find someone with a H-frame press. It will make your life a lot easier. In later versions the rotors were bolted on to the hub which was a lot easier to deal with.
The hub seems to be springin gout of its original place.the washer in behind the spring ( the one that looks like it has teeth in certain spots) is warn significantly in certain teeth spots.Should i be ok buying aused one from ajunk yard?Will any hub from 86-95 manual work on my truck? At a loss here.I am purchasing another tie rod end,front shocks.two rear break lines to extend front ones.Then i need to get a hard line 4 drives Side.i broke it off rite at the Banjo nutt.
Sorry, I don't have a lot of experience with the Tacoma front ends. Generally though, when a wheel bearing is going bad, you will hear a lot of noise and/or vibration when you load the bad bearing going around a corner. If the left outer wheel bearing was going bad you would hear it in a right hand turn (body roll loading the left outer wheel bearing), etc... Slop in the wheel when you jack it up and rock it back and forth is another indicator also...
Just found your channel tonight. Do you have a video or list of tools to keep in a Toyota? I have a 1989 Toyota truck 4x4 and would rather not carry a 150 pc Craftsman tool kit. Thanks!
+InjunOne I don't have a list or anything, but I carry a set of metric sockets in 3/8 and 1/2 drive, vice grips, screwdriver, high-lift jack, and winch recovery gear. Spare upper and lower radiator hoses, extra belts, hose clamps, fluids, etc. I know it's kind of cliche', but I really haven't had much issue with Toyota's on the trail. If you keep up on the maintenance they really don't have much issue on the trail.
+WheeliePete Thanks. I usually pack extra parts and fluids as well. Seems most of the truck is 10mm and 12mm. I try to replace belts before they get too bad and keep those for back up, then rotate that stock each time I change belts. Maintenance was one thing my Dad made sure we kept up on. PM keeps a lot of problems away. Enjoy your channel. Thanks for the videos, look forward to many more!
I have a 2000 Toyota Tacoma and am trying to replace the Cv drive shaft axel. When I'm trying to remove the manual lockin hub but the Snap ring will not come loose. In your video the snap ring had an opening, but with mine it doesn't seem to open any where. How can I get it off?
I'd have to see a picture of it. The one in the video is an early truck with the solid axle so it's a bit different. The Tacoma's sometimes had a bolt with a washer in the end of the axle shaft. You can shoot me an email with a picture.
As long as the noise only happens when you have the hubs locked it is most likely being caused by something in the front axle as engaging the hubs locks in the birfields and inner shafts and starts spinning the differential. There really isn't much that can go wrong in the hubs themselves. You could also have a bent axle housing and one of the birfield bells is rubbing the inside of the knuckle ball. There's lots of choices here, but I would try pulling the front driveline...continued...
Not right now, but I am actually working on that. It's a very simple problem to fix. The spring that holds the prawl to the locking hub clutch is installed incorrectly. If you send me a private message with your email in it I can send you some pictures of how it needs to be assembled. It's easy to mess up the install because there's a little trick, but once you understand how it works, you can put it back together no problem. Every single time someone tells me their hub engages, but won't retract it's because of this problem. I have yet to see a video on UA-cam that clearly shows how the reassembly works so I'm going to do one very soon.
i dont seem to have that locking ring on my 94 pickup... and cant seem to release my cone washers as you did(there are some hammer marks from previous owner) any advice?
Thank you for the video....need help....i have a slowly leaking clutch (94 vx 80 series manual 5 speed)....any vid to show how to dismantle and repair master/slave cylinder?....much appreicated
just got a '94 4x4 and when i put it in 4x4 and make a hard turn (turn r or l all the way) i hear a good knocking sound - could that have something to do with the bearings there or maybe better the bushings?
If it's an extreme turn to either side I would take a hard look at the steering components. I bet there's some tie-rod end joints that are toast especially on a '94, if they are original, they've been in there a LONG time. Could also be the CV joints. Doe the truck have manual locking hubs? Lots of problems can stem from someone installing the manual locking hub dial assembly wrong. Easy to check and fix (as long as all the parts are there) Here's a link to that video: ua-cam.com/video/W78RkF1mUOE/v-deo.html
Hammering on the outside of the locking hub body deforms the very thin area that the cones sit in. There's nothing you can do about it really, but what you'll want to watch for is making sure when you do put it all back together you check the torque on those nuts after a bit of wheeling. If the holes are deformed enough you might not get the right fit of the cone washer and then your locking hub could work loose. Checking those nuts for torque after the first couple trips should ensure they've gone all the way down to where they should be. The other thing I would highly recommend is replacing the locking hub body studs with new, stronger ones. Places like Marlin Crawler, Front Range Offroad, and Trail Gear all sell them. At a minimum, check to make sure each of the existing studs is tight. When those work loose you start to see the locking hubs shear the studs clean off. Link to Front Range's websites with the hub studs upgrade (I'm not affiliated with them, they just have awesome products): frontrangeoffroadfab.com/arp-hub-studs-upgrade/
Do I have to take the first set of bolts off first? Or can I just skip them and take the whole hub off without separating the 2? I just want to paint my hub.
You really should remove the hub dial so you can get a socket on an extension to get down to the nuts on the hub studs. Just put the locking hub dial to free and remove the 6 small bolts and it will pull right out.
If it's got AISIN manual locking hubs, yes. Make sure and watch my other video too on the not-so-intuitive process to re-assemble the hub dial components. You'll thank me later: ua-cam.com/video/W78RkF1mUOE/v-deo.html
Here in 2024. Love 14yr old UA-cam videos.. I'm swapping my vacuum locker for manual lockers. Great video 🤙 amazing how old this video seems... the audio and all. Like time travel. Thanks for posting this in primitive internet days!! The good old days.
If you're swapping in Aisin manual locking hubs, this video will be useful too. ua-cam.com/video/W78RkF1mUOE/v-deo.htmlsi=hwdw3KvJc4BU42aq
Would you mind if I made a playlist of your Toyota Truck vids? I think they are exactly what every Yota Owner needs to watch.
You can always compile your own list of videos for a playlist in UA-cam (and i'm totally cool with you linking my videos into a playlist), but I do also have them grouped into a playlist already (along with some other truck and 4x4 related content I've made: ua-cam.com/play/PLTxEXQ674ZOJlyEriqcd3xb6MZKdosVxY.html
This is the best, easiest to follow how to video I've ever seen! So happy I stumbled on this. Thank you!
Thank you!!! At 5 minutes the explanation of how to properly pop out those cone washers was a life saver you are the man! 🫡🪖🦅🤘🏼
I will add this, as a mechanic i believe that this guy knows wtf he's talking about. I would trust him working on my 30year old yota land cruisaider, 4runner etc.. much props wheeliePete yota man! 4 documenting this for them diy'ers
Thanks for the compliments. I've gotten a lot better over the years at making these videos. I eventually did make the video on how to properly reassemble the pawl and clutch assembly of the hub dial. If you haven't seen it, you might want to check it out. (I think it's probably the best video I've made to date...) ua-cam.com/video/W78RkF1mUOE/v-deo.html I also lumped my toyota videos together into a playlist that can be accessed from my channel's home page.
I recently moved into a property with a huge shop so that I can do more filming. The goal is this summer to do more Toyota repair videos and front hub bearings is on the list.
Have a 1992 Toyota truck with one of the manual locking hubs very hard to turn. So, this really helped take the mystery out of how to remove and either replace or add a bit of grease! I hope my 1992 is not too different!!!!! Thanks
It probably just needs cleaned and greased, but you should watch this video before reassembly: ua-cam.com/video/W78RkF1mUOE/v-deo.html
Thanks for the info. Nice video. I changed a flange today because it was cracked as a result of me hammering it on the side to get the cone washers out. I used your method this time. A couple of the cones were stubborn but they came out eventually, and no cracked flange this time!
Good deal! I'm glad you got them out. On really stuck ones I also like to soak them in penetrating spray like PB Blaster, and you can heat up the studs with a propane torch if they are REALLY stuck. But generally the brass drift gets the job done nicely.
Thanks Pete. I'll keep that in mind. I have a small propane torch if needed. My hubs are not original Toyota, my cruiser didn't have them factory fitted.. it's an all wheel drive model converted to part time 4wd. George, Australia.
Thank you for a great demonstration on this Toyota hubs, very helpful too me. great job.
Be sure to watch this video on the hub dial reassembly I did also. It will also prove helpful if you're working on an AISIN hub: ua-cam.com/video/W78RkF1mUOE/v-deo.html
This video is so freakin old and yet so usefull for me today😅 i was laughing so hard when I hit the pins carefully and the cone rings popped of. I appreciate your video and thank you very much for your effort! Greetings from Germany!
Thanks for the cone washer tip! It worked great. The ones on my '88 truck probably have never been out and I didn't want to damage the hub housing. In the past on old Dodge trucks you can smack them with a ball peen hammer since they're steel and won't be damaged.
Pete, greatly appreciate the quality of your video. your experience comes through. look forward to more ,as you're a great communicator,concise and in depth with quality info . you're a very good teacher .really hit the spot for me . thanks muchly
aussie jim
Very concise and layman explaining, however there is need for high resolution video quality
Doing an HD remake of this video is on my list of stuff to do. It's hard to believe it was 11 years ago that I made this. Time flies. Thanks for watching!
did mine a month back. Them cone washers had me screaming with rage; rusted on tight!
good Video, I wish I'd found it a month ago :D
Excellent job, could not ask for a better video!
Thanks for making this video mate. watching walkthroughs like this are a big help.
I really know nothing about how to fix cars although can just get by with minor stuff.It was simple what you showed but it was fantastic non the less..Well explained and easy to understand...I loved the two nut tightening thing and if you do shear a bolt off to get a dremel,make a groove then use a screwdriver to remove..I also liked that clip removal tool...Thanks for sharing..
The haynes manual is like a grade-school reader. The factory service manual (FSM) is like a graduate level textboox. Trust me, if you can get your hands on a factory service manual you will never pick up a haynes manual again. The FSM breaks down every single part of a repair in detail with either a picture or an illustration for each step. They are awesome to work from.
Thank you!!!!! Ain't no school like the old school!
Heating the locking hub body down by the cone washer may expand the hub body enough to help release the pressure on the cone washer. Another try might be to see if you can actually get a tapered punch into the split on the cone washer to try and tap it around and loosen it up. But before everything, soak the cone washer in penetrating spray and really put some force into the brass drift. I've had some NASTY ones and they've all eventually come out with the drift and sledge.
Cool video! Got a flat the other day on my 1994 Toyota Pickup...Took the 6 lugs off and she wouldn't budge. It seems the manual locking hub is in the way and needs to be removed. Thank god it didnt go flat on the freeway or something...lol.
Very helpful. Great way to get the cone washers out. The way they said in my repair manual was different and I was damaging the hub.
No problem, I hear what you're saying. I'm working on another Toyota tips & tricks video right now. Will hopefully have it up by the end of this weekend.
Great tip on the cone washers, wish I'd known about that trick when I did a brake job on a 96' Land Cruiser. Thanks
Nice one bud, you know your stuff. I'm watching 'cause I plan on converting my '89 stock auto hubs to manual. I'm excited to get them babies on, so I can realize I need 4X4 once I'm in a puddle.
Well Explained. Thanks for helping these trucks keep on rolling.
Thanks Adam, if you haven't seen it yet, check out my very detailed video on how the locking hub dial/clutch assembly goes back together. That assembly is one of the things that people often don't get correct and then think their hub is broken (will lock but not unlock). If you liked the above video, you'll love this one. ua-cam.com/video/W78RkF1mUOE/v-deo.html
@WheeliePete Thanks for getting back to me so quick. I have to replace them because there is not much to resurface them. I have the new ones just needed further info for the hubs because I 'm a novice when it comes to those. This will take some of the pressure off after watching this. Wish there was a easier way to get them off. I think I may just make it a weekend project to do the rotors and ball joints since it'll all be jacked up and took apart. Thanks again
Thanks!
Just used this tip. Worked like a charm thanks so much!
Great video. Clear helpful instruction. Thanks so much.
@bats28 You might check to see if you can just have the rotors surfaced. If you can, it means you won't have to take them off the hubs (you will still have to remove the locking hubs as pictured in the video), but you won't have to press the wheel studs out of the actual hub body. If you are replacing the rotors you'll need to press the studs out of the hub body as the studs pass through the rotor and are pressed through the hub body.
thank you for taking time to reply...my problem is im in Sudan...and we are bombarded with chinese imitation parts....i was thinking of maintaining the original toyota one i have, but guess i will need to find a way to ship one in.....thanx again.....and great tuts
@nerdlinger2 You've got an IFS (Independent front suspension) truck and they use a different type of axle so you probably don't have the snap ring there. the truck in the video is a 1979-1985 style solid front axle with Birfield joints. As for the cone washers, soak the area in penetrating spray (PB Blaster is my fav.) and really lay into it with the brass drift and sledge. You may have to heat the area gently with a propane torch.
I will try and upload a video by monday night to show u where i am at with it.I didnt know anythign about pre loading anything.Do u have a link or a in detailed list on how to go about this?I cant waite to see what it looks like with the front lift installed.I appreciate you replying back so soon.what manual do you recomend i buy or get to do this pre load research on?Ty for any replys man,You The Man.
The problem with prior owners beating on the body of the locking hub is that the flange where the locking hub body attaches to the wheel hub gets VERY VERY thin right where the cone washers are. So when people beat on that area they can deform the very thin wall of the locking hub body where the cone washer's tapered hole is drilled. Once that area is deformed it can lock up the cone washer and keep it from releasing. This is why you should never, ever, pound on the hub body...
Thanks for taking the time to make the video.
I've seen aisins blow up, but it's usually a failure of the inner gear exploding under EXTREME use (huge tires, lockers, full throttle assault in the rocks kind of wheeling, etc.) It's my opinion that the WARN is not a better hub than the Aisin. The main reason people put a Warn on is because they didn't reassemble the Aisin properly and it engaged, but then didn't disengage, they thought it was broke, and replaced it. I'll do a video in the near future about proper reassembly of the Aisin.
By far the most informative video for this!!!!! Thanks very much. Do you have a video for a Toyota front wheel bearing change?!? Need to know the ft lbs for loading the bearings!!
There's a blind hole in the end of the burfield stub shaft that's threaded 8x1.25 (IIRC). You can stick a bolt in it and grab that with pliers to help pull the axle out a little bit when you go to install the snapring on the end of the axle. That hole can also be used to attach a puller to the end of the birfield stub shaft if you hare having a hard time pulling it out of the knuckle ball. There shouldn't be a bolt in in when you are driving around.
Pete
I’ve got a Daihatsu fortrak ( Rocky ) always wondered what that threaded hole was used for ,
Many thanks.
Yea them snaprings can be a bitch
It goes, outer wheel bearing bearing, thrust washer (the big flat one with the single tooth, then a big nut, then the star washer, then the other nut. But you have to do the pre-load adjustments. Best to get a manual and go through it right or you will screw up your wheel bearings. Snapring goes on the end of the axle shaft right before you put on the locking hub dial.
@sleepybone321 If you have manual locking hubs that are unlocked and you switch to 4x4 in the cab all you are doing is spinning your front drive axles. The hubs need to be locked to transfer power from the spinning drive axles to the wheels. The hubs lock the axles to the wheels.
Great detailed vid! Quick question- I've got a Suzuki Vitara(Sidekick in the States I think) and the manual hubs are totally seized on the 'Locked Position'. Can I disassemble the hubs from this position, or does this mess everythingup?
Does it make the sound when 4wd is engaged also? Or just when in 2wd with the hubs locked? If it's only in 2wd with the hubs locked I would take a hard look at your front driveline. When you use 2wd with the hubs locked in you're putting spin in the driveshaft from the front axle instead of from the transfercase. This can cause some pretty strange sounds. Another thing might be wheel bearings, or carrier bearings in the differential. continued in next reply...
Any Chilton's or Haynes manual will have the directions, but I only use Factory Service Manuals (FSM's) as they have the ultimate authority and true step-by-step procedures. It's totally worth it to buy a set for your vehicle or go find a download at e-bay.
Ok i watched it thats a definit easy way to do it.Preload on my 1986 sr5 turbo 4x4 manual locking hubs, was as follows
1st- Tighten Nut to 41 lbs torque.spin it to right around 5 times, Spin it Left 5 times.
2nd-Tighten Nut To 41lbs again.Spin it right 5 times.Spin it left five times.
3rd- Losen nut,Spin it 5 times left.Spin it 5 times right.
4th- Tighten nut to 21lbs torque and your done.
I did have a prob with hub dial not turning.Have to remove it n see whats up.....
@jason127x99 Don't need the 54mm socket to remove the locking hub. You'll need the 54mm socket to remove the actual hub itself from the spindle. (The two 54mm nuts are actually holding the wheel hub (wheel hub has the wheel studs pressed into it) and wheel bearings on the spindle.) I'll be doing a video in the near future on how to remove the hub as a unit from the axle so you can remove the Birfield and inner axle shaft without losing wheel bearing adjustment.
Thanks, this is one of the most useful videos I've seen for working with the old solid front axle Toyotas. Do you by any chance have a video on how to replace the front wheel bearings? If not, any tips? Thanks!
+Rudi von Staden I don't have a video for front wheel bearings currently (but it is on my list of things to do!) The biggest tip for the front wheel bearings is to get the socket for install and removal of the two spindle nuts. They are 54mm so it's a big socket. Best bet is to get one of these from trail-gear. : www.trail-gear.com/TG/54mm_Axle_Socket/i_0_0_3482/_140157-1-KIT.aspx#.VkC1zGeFOUk
WheeliePete Thanks for the tip! I hear from other Hilux owners in South Africa that the standard water heater element spanner fits perfectly, and they are available from most hardware stores (not sure if it's an international standard). Only problem is they need to be modified if you need to torque them.
+Rudi von Staden Hmmm... maybe they have a different element standard than the U.S. because the socket I use for water heater elements is 1.5" which is only 38.1mm The spindle nuts on the early solid axles take a 54mm socket.
+Rudi von Staden yorniel
@et0307982 The axle in this video is a 1979 - 1985 type axle. The later model locking hubs are similar, but not quite the same. You're not going to have the lockring on the Tacoma because it has CV shafts where the early solid axle trucks have Birfield joints. The same principles apply for removing the locking hub body on all the years though. Good luck.
@XlElementXl Doesn't matter. You can lock in the hubs and run around in 2wd on the gravel roads shifting into 4x4 only when you need it. The only problem is that if your front driveshaft is unbalanced or sloppy, you will hear a lot of noise from it as the drive shaft will be getting spun by the axle instead of being powered by the transfercase. It's not really that big a deal though. I'm uploading a new video right now on how to bombproof your steering stops. Check it out!
I am picking up my lock washers tommorow at dealership.I purchased a torque wrench for the bearing preload portion of the rebuild.i will be torquing all bolts to spec on my truck.I was thinking of just making 3 inch spacers for the u style hardware bracket that holds the sway bar in its stock place.
Truck wont start unless i spray starting fluid in airintake.once it starts it runs mint.Where would you tackle this problem at first? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Dave.
Hey great video. I have a 87' 4runnerthat I need to change my rotors on and it looks like the hubs will need to come off. Is this true? Or am I looking at it wrong. If you have a vid on doing ball joints too that'll be awesome.
Great video. Very informative. What about the front wheel bearings? I have a 98 tacoma 4 x 4 2.7. I am a little mechanical. I just did the front brakes and rotors, new starter etc. I don't know how to tell if the wheels bearing are good or bad. I suspect that the front right might have a problem. When I spun the wheel after replacing the brake it sounded a little rough and it wasn't brake noise. Can you advise on that?
great video,its great to see/know how to do it the easy way,thx mk
The dial itself has a shaped o-ring that you should put a light coat of grease on. Also a nice light coat of grease on all the friction parts inside the hub. Anywhere you get metal to metal contact should have some grease.
If there were supposed to be drop brackets, any spacer should work. On the solid axle trucks the sway bar extensions are in the form of longer bolts and sleeve spacers. I haven't messed with the Independent Front Suspension trucks much though...
Hello WheeliePate, thanx very mauch to try to teach us about your experience on hub locks. I have Land Cruiser prado 70 series that uses electrick hub locks, iam not happy with them, i would like to convert them to manual locks. what do have to do? I just buy a manual kit and essemble it or is necessary to altere something on hub host at may car? thanx i iam sorry for may break english, iam from Mozambique and i peak portuguese.
What happened to the 12mm nut on the end of the axle? When you took the hub dial off
in the first minute there should have been a 12mm nut in the center of the axle.
Thanks WheeliePete. Excellent video. I have a 1993 Toyota 4x4 pickup with IFS. It doesn't have the snap ring, but it does have a 12mm bolt and a large washer on the end of the axle, just under the locking hub cap. Any suggestions on how to keep the bearings and axle shaft stationary when trying to undo the 12mm bolt and washer? You have been a lifesaver so far, I wouldn't have tackled the job, but my son lost the front passenger side wheel and sheared 3 lug bolts after someone was interrupted trying to boost his new tires and wheels.
I *think* if you put the transfercase in 4wd and the tranny in gear it should bind up the front differential enough to be able to unscrew that bolt (as long as the front driveline is still attached to the differential.) All my trucks have manual lockers in the front axles so putting the t-case in 4wd locks up both axle shafts. I can't remember if that will work with an open differential or not though. Maybe someone else will chime in who's had to deal with that...?
Anyone else have input on this
@hiredhandful You *should* be able to remove the hub with the dial in the locked position. the only thing will be your locking cog will be extended. I'll be doing a video soon of how the inner guts work on these style of hubs and how to rebuild them. If your dial is frozen it's either because there too much nasty old solidified grease or dirt, or because you ball-detent has jammed in the dial cap, or there's something seriously wrong inside the mechanism.
I'm sorry, I don't have any of the auto-hubs laying around. I usually yank them off switch to locking hubs on 2nd and 3rd gen trucks. What year are you dealing with? I may be able to e-mail you a page from a factory service manual on reassembly and / or an exploded diagram if I have the right year...
ok ty will take a look for that banjo fitting.Question for you.If u know.can i take a rear break line and hook it to front break line on my truck?I repacked my bearings today got passenger side all hooked up.All but the break line etc.to short with the 3 inch lift.would rip line if i installed it to lift.I bought new shocks front and rear jusr before i decided to install lift kit.Front ones are 3 inches short from factory set hole for top of shock.Where to get spacer?extention? HELP...
Awesome! So well done!
Hey Pete!! best vids ever! do you know if there should be a bolt and washer in the end of the transaxle behind these hubs? when I opened my (milemarker) hubs it was like that...
I've seen that too over the years, mainly on hubs I took apart after auto locking hubs were introduced. It's not necessary under the manual locking hub dial. The threaded end of the birfield stub shaft allows you to have a bolt in there to help with pulling that joint and axle shaft out of the knuckle and differential.
AWESOME video's btw; definitely going to subscribe! Have a question. I'm looking at an '85 4Runner this weekend; solid front axle w/ manual locking hubs. Just wondering whats the best order when locking the hubs. Example; if I pull off onto a service road is it ok to lock the hubs first (still in 2WD) then if I need 4WD activate it afterwards OR should I leave hubs unlocked, activate 4WD THEN lock the hubs or does the order matter? Thanks a lot for the video's!
@hannahjo8 Because of the way IFS truck axles shafts work, they don't need a lockring. Just skip that step and proceed.
Hi, wheeliepete. I would like ur opinion and/or advise on an incident my family and I experienced yesterday on our 1994 land cruiser with under 130k miles- we were on the freeway and thought my husband hit some type of road debris. I saw something fly off near the truck. When we got to our destination, he can feel something off about our truck. We examined the tires and under the car and did not notice anything out of the ordinary then my husband noticed the right front tire was missing 5 (out of 6) of its lug nuts and with further examination saw that 4 of the wheel studs were broken off. We could have had a serious accident, needless to say. So four or five hours later we finally found a place that made the repairs and got home safely. Is it normal for what happened, happen? For four out of 6 wheel studs to break the way it did? Is it wear and tear or are we looking at vandalism? We’ve experienced a few vandalism to our cars since we moved to this sketchy neighborhood and can’t wait to get out. Thanks, wheeliepete!! Enjoyed ur video and learned a lot from it!!
A couple things come to mind #1 someone (probably a tire shop) in the past may have overtorqued those studs and stretched past their limit which makes them weak and ripe for breaking off on the next big impact. (Could have also not been properly torqued and just came loose which would allow the wheel to work back and forth on the studs and shear them off...)#2 Which wheel was it? If it's one the driver's side wheels, there's a physics principle called "Mechanical Precession" that basically states when you have a nut that is regular "righty tighty" threads (clockwise to tighten) and you constantly spin the whole assembly counter-clockwise (like the wheels on the driver's side are doing), the nut will loosen over time. (wikipedia article on mechanical precession: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Precession_(mechanical) If the nuts were all coming loose on that side from mechanical precession, then once they get loose enough to allow the wheel to move a little bit all the time, it will wear on the studs and can shear them off. (I've seen this happen A LOT with 4x4's that don't don't check their lug nuts after aggressive wheeling trips.) Sooooo....if it was because someone overtorqued those studs, you will want to check all 4 wheels because the same gorilla probably did all 4 like that. If it was just the driver's side coming loose, then I would get in the habit of checking torque every so often (which isn't a bad idea just in general.) There's another thing too and that might be someone put the wrong type of lug nuts on for the rim. Different types of rims require different styles of lug nuts (where the lug nut interfaces with the rim.) A tire shop could tell you pretty quick if the lug nuts are correct for the rims. The wrong lug nut to rim style might also be prone to coming loose. So long answer, but, no, it's not normal for a properly mounted and torqued wheel to lose 5/6 lugs and shear off 4 studs. I'm really glad you didn't jettison the wheel at speed. I think you got really lucky!
curious, when you pulled the locking hub cover off, why didnt the axle have the bolt and washer? been curious about people who use the bolt/washer vs just clip vs both. seems to be a variety to the consensus
The bolt and large washer are found under the hub cover of the Toyota auto-locking hubs. Both my 1985 and 1988 (1985 being the last year of the solid front axles in the U.S.) factory service manuals show it on the end of the axle shaft under the hub cover of the exploded diagram for the Toyota AUTO-locking hub assembly. They were not found on the MANUAL-locking hub assembly diagrams from 1979-1995 in the U.S. In 1986 and after I see them showing up on BOTH the manual-locking and auto-locking hub diagrams in the factory service manuals. In the old solid axle manuals, the threaded hole in the end of the axle is also used for, if you need it, installing a bolt that you can use pull on and to hold the axle stub still while you install that outer snap ring. I'll post a couple snapshots of the service manual assemblies in my community feed if you're interested in seeing them.
@@WheeliePete interesting. I have an ADD setup. Recently did a cv and noticed I didn't have a snap ring, just the bolt and washer. I'm about to slap on some warn manual hubs, but not I'm wondering about the snap ring. Can I just use the bolt and washer in lieu of the snap ring, or will it not fit with the manual hub?
I just updated my last comment Ray. I started looking at the factory service manuals and it looks like they put the bolt and washer on the manual hubs too and starting in 1986. If you're putting on WARN hubs you'll need a diagram of how warn wants the guts installed. I'm not sure how they go on. We always used to yank the WARN hubs and put Toyota AISIN ones back on if we ever got a truck in that had them, the AISIN is superior design in my opinion. Most people have problems with the AISIN hubs because they were taken apart and installed incorrectly. See this video I did addressing that super-common issue that makes people think the hubs are broken, when in reality they are just assembled incorrectly by the last person who took it apart. ua-cam.com/video/W78RkF1mUOE/v-deo.html
@@WheeliePete awesome, thanks for the useful info. I originally was going for aisins, but I saw a lot that was up for sale on offerup from a guy who converted to front solid axle. So I have his whole front drop out including the warn hubs and good cv's. 100 bucks =)
Good deal! I just posted a bunch of the schematics from the different years auto/manual hubs over on my channel's community tab. I also noticed that there appears to be a difference in the bolt/washer combo between the auto and manual hubs. The auto hubs appear to have a cupped washer that the bolt sits down in and the manual hubs look like they had a flat washer.
I have a 98 with stock locking hubs, i just bought it a few months ago, i can tell that the passenger side locking hub was replaced at one time, about a month ago i had to use my 4wd on sand then when i was done i noticed my passenger side hub would not disenguage like you said at 2:00 in this video. since then ive been to busy to work on it till now. so i have been drivving with both locked in(hopfully thats ok). I am actualy and ase certified tech. but have little experience with 4wd. HELP
Thanks for replying so quickly. That's good to know. I'll give it a try.
I forgot to mention the rub is not constant. On my 15 min drive home it will happen 2-4 times 10-30 second bursts. And I havent had it happen on one of our recent 50 degree days just when its cold. I havent had it happen in 4wd but it will snow tomorrow here and I'll have plenty of time to test that out. thnx for the quick response!
Hopefully somoene will chime in here on the subject. I don't have that much knowledge with the early 22RE trucks. I think there is a cold start injector of sorts in there somewhere, If I remember right there is a banjo fitting on the side of the intake plenum that injects gas directly into the intake for cold start? I jsut can't remember at this point. Fuel/Air/Spark...it's one of those three...
@WheeliePete I should add, that pressing studs out of the hub body is a total pain in the ass if you don't have a hyraulic press. It can be done with a hammer/drift/socket setup, but you better get a friend to help you.
Pete, I recently bought my first toy pickup and now when I'm driving with hubs locked but in 2wd when it's cold out (30 or below) I hear a loud rubbing sound coming from my drivers front wheel area. I took off the wheel and looked around, tugged on things. Nothing seemed loose. I'm wondering if the vibrating and rubbing could be a hub going bad. When I slow down the rubbing sound does too. What do you think?
Thanks Pete, awesome video. One thing I'm wondering - should the hub dial/cap have any grease on it before it's put back on?
its crazy that all that the ring gear in the hub can handle all the torque from the axles.
Well, right up until it doesn't... Which is why they make aftermarket chromoly ones like this: www.lowrangeoffroad.com/trail-gear-4340-chromoly-hub-gears-inner-and-outer-301506-1-kit-303107-1-kit-303108-1-kit-301507-1-kit.html
Is this a carbureated truck? If so, I would look at the choke.
...continued...pull the front driveline and then run with the hubs locked and see if there's noise. In not, then you've isolated it. Removing the DL is easy so that's why I'd go there first. If that doesn't do it, unlock one hub, then the other. You're just using process of elimination before you have to dig into the guts of the front end. I'll be doing a video on the locking hub rebuild process soon....
Great video 👍 👍👍 thanks for the info
hey Pete question for you.I dont have the 3 inch sway bar drop brackets for my ifs lift kit.Can just use 3 inch polyethelene blocks n drill holes and add 3 inch longer screws to hold stock brackets in place?I see from pics they look like there angeld.off set by a inch or less.Any idea. 1986 sr5 turbo 4x4 manual hubs..?? TY for any info.Got my lock rings and picking up my lock washers from toyota dealership tommorow.So I CAN REASSEMBLE WHEELS ETC ETC.
@WheeliePete Oh great! Thanks so much for the reply. Watched your new video; was really really good. It's amazing how a little mod like that can/will be so useful; along with the brake line mod. Can't believe Toyota's engineers never thought of that (like you said) hah. I hope you continue to make video's like these; there so useful and informative.
i put manual hub lockers on my 99 ford ranger and i was wondering if i leave them unlocked and turn the switch in the cab to 4hi will i have 4wheel drive or do i have to lock the hubs to get 4 wheel drive?
Hey I got a question I have 1981 Toyota pickup 4wd and am doing a rotor change, I’m stuck on the rotor off or hub? It has 6 studs how do I get those off?? They’re stuck on good? Just bang them out with some brass
Uggh... I've also got an '81 front end and they had pressed on rotors (I think it was that way for 79-83 on U.S. 4x4 trucks?) The lug studs are pressed through the rotor and hub holding the rotor to the hub. You have to press the lugs out to remove the rotor from the hub. Then you have to press them back together. If you can, find someone with a H-frame press. It will make your life a lot easier. In later versions the rotors were bolted on to the hub which was a lot easier to deal with.
The hub seems to be springin gout of its original place.the washer in behind the spring ( the one that looks like it has teeth in certain spots) is warn significantly in certain teeth spots.Should i be ok buying aused one from ajunk yard?Will any hub from 86-95 manual work on my truck? At a loss here.I am purchasing another tie rod end,front shocks.two rear break lines to extend front ones.Then i need to get a hard line 4 drives Side.i broke it off rite at the Banjo nutt.
Sorry, I don't have a lot of experience with the Tacoma front ends. Generally though, when a wheel bearing is going bad, you will hear a lot of noise and/or vibration when you load the bad bearing going around a corner. If the left outer wheel bearing was going bad you would hear it in a right hand turn (body roll loading the left outer wheel bearing), etc... Slop in the wheel when you jack it up and rock it back and forth is another indicator also...
Just found your channel tonight. Do you have a video or list of tools to keep in a Toyota? I have a 1989 Toyota truck 4x4 and would rather not carry a 150 pc Craftsman tool kit. Thanks!
+InjunOne I don't have a list or anything, but I carry a set of metric sockets in 3/8 and 1/2 drive, vice grips, screwdriver, high-lift jack, and winch recovery gear. Spare upper and lower radiator hoses, extra belts, hose clamps, fluids, etc. I know it's kind of cliche', but I really haven't had much issue with Toyota's on the trail. If you keep up on the maintenance they really don't have much issue on the trail.
+WheeliePete Thanks. I usually pack extra parts and fluids as well. Seems most of the truck is 10mm and 12mm. I try to replace belts before they get too bad and keep those for back up, then rotate that stock each time I change belts. Maintenance was one thing my Dad made sure we kept up on. PM keeps a lot of problems away. Enjoy your channel. Thanks for the videos, look forward to many more!
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I have a 2000 Toyota Tacoma and am trying to replace the Cv drive shaft axel. When I'm trying to remove the manual lockin hub but the Snap ring will not come loose. In your video the snap ring had an opening, but with mine it doesn't seem to open any where. How can I get it off?
I'd have to see a picture of it. The one in the video is an early truck with the solid axle so it's a bit different. The Tacoma's sometimes had a bolt with a washer in the end of the axle shaft. You can shoot me an email with a picture.
+WheeliePete it doesn't have a bolt with a washer in the end. I'll send you a picture.
Got your picture. Looks like the hub will come off if you take off the nuts and cone washers from the hub studs. Should come right off after that.
As long as the noise only happens when you have the hubs locked it is most likely being caused by something in the front axle as engaging the hubs locks in the birfields and inner shafts and starts spinning the differential. There really isn't much that can go wrong in the hubs themselves. You could also have a bent axle housing and one of the birfield bells is rubbing the inside of the knuckle ball. There's lots of choices here, but I would try pulling the front driveline...continued...
Yea I know with mine bad spider gears really messed shit up
Where is your 54mm socket???? Been there and done that! My bad I thought you were taking the bearings out.
Do you have a video on how to fix, when gear will engage, but will not retract
Not right now, but I am actually working on that. It's a very simple problem to fix. The spring that holds the prawl to the locking hub clutch is installed incorrectly. If you send me a private message with your email in it I can send you some pictures of how it needs to be assembled. It's easy to mess up the install because there's a little trick, but once you understand how it works, you can put it back together no problem. Every single time someone tells me their hub engages, but won't retract it's because of this problem. I have yet to see a video on UA-cam that clearly shows how the reassembly works so I'm going to do one very soon.
Don't know how to send the private message, but my address is rroberts755@yahoo.com
Thanks Ronnie Roberts
Ronnie Roberts Sent you an email Ronnie with detailed pictures on reassembly. I'll delete your message above so people can't see your email address.
WheeliePete can you send it to me as well? and what size of socket do you need to remove the nut?
Devlyn Tobin Send me a private message with your email and I can send you a copy of that email with the fix for the hub reassembly.
i dont seem to have that locking ring on my 94 pickup... and cant seem to release my cone washers as you did(there are some hammer marks from previous owner) any advice?
Thank you for the video....need help....i have a slowly leaking clutch (94 vx 80 series manual 5 speed)....any vid to show how to dismantle and repair master/slave cylinder?....much appreicated
just got a '94 4x4 and when i put it in 4x4 and make a hard turn (turn r or l all the way) i hear a good knocking sound - could that have something to do with the bearings there or maybe better the bushings?
If it's an extreme turn to either side I would take a hard look at the steering components. I bet there's some tie-rod end joints that are toast especially on a '94, if they are original, they've been in there a LONG time. Could also be the CV joints. Doe the truck have manual locking hubs? Lots of problems can stem from someone installing the manual locking hub dial assembly wrong. Easy to check and fix (as long as all the parts are there) Here's a link to that video: ua-cam.com/video/W78RkF1mUOE/v-deo.html
awsome video very helpuful although i needed to know how to tighten the bearings
So, if a previous owner hammered to get those cones out, is it ok??? Or wjat could go wrong
Hammering on the outside of the locking hub body deforms the very thin area that the cones sit in. There's nothing you can do about it really, but what you'll want to watch for is making sure when you do put it all back together you check the torque on those nuts after a bit of wheeling. If the holes are deformed enough you might not get the right fit of the cone washer and then your locking hub could work loose. Checking those nuts for torque after the first couple trips should ensure they've gone all the way down to where they should be. The other thing I would highly recommend is replacing the locking hub body studs with new, stronger ones. Places like Marlin Crawler, Front Range Offroad, and Trail Gear all sell them. At a minimum, check to make sure each of the existing studs is tight. When those work loose you start to see the locking hubs shear the studs clean off. Link to Front Range's websites with the hub studs upgrade (I'm not affiliated with them, they just have awesome products): frontrangeoffroadfab.com/arp-hub-studs-upgrade/
I just removed mine.... But the hub was locked. It's now stuck in the lock position. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Yep, you probably need to go watch this other video I did on that exact subject: ua-cam.com/video/W78RkF1mUOE/v-deo.html
Do I have to take the first set of bolts off first? Or can I just skip them and take the whole hub off without separating the 2? I just want to paint my hub.
You really should remove the hub dial so you can get a socket on an extension to get down to the nuts on the hub studs. Just put the locking hub dial to free and remove the 6 small bolts and it will pull right out.
You need to take off the hub dial to access the snap ring
Hey Pete would the ifs 2002 hilux be the same process?
If it's got AISIN manual locking hubs, yes. Make sure and watch my other video too on the not-so-intuitive process to re-assemble the hub dial components. You'll thank me later: ua-cam.com/video/W78RkF1mUOE/v-deo.html
@WheeliePete well i have a haynes book with that in it but its not down to detail. I ll rebuilt it again one day. thanks for the reply!
Yeah, the "tapered punch" method described in the book has always been a bit of a puzzler, you're going to ding something up every time...
I Have a 91, it doesnt have a snap washer its a nut and washer at the end of the axle, after I grt that off is there anything else thats different?
Thank you sooo much!