Deve, I have been a fan of your site for a couple years now working on restoring my '50 3100 w/ '59 235. Just recently found your youtube channel though! Just want to say thanks, your articles have helped me (and a buddy who is restoring a '38 chevy) an absolute ton! I just hope mine turns out half as nice as your engine stand!!!
Deves I'm looking to replace my points with an electronic ignition, on my 1953 3100series 216 motor. I was told I should clean up for a better ground the underside of the distributor hold down bracket, and the top surface of the motor where the hold down bracket, makes contact with the motor. My question is if I go to remove that hold bracket do I have to remove distributor. Or once I remove that half inch bolt does that slide out so I could clean it up. It looks to me like that vacuum bracket sits on top. Really don't want to disturb the distributor. Unless there's an easy way of doing it. I never removed it. Thank you for your help and your great videos you make.
Until you are ready to replace the points with HEI, I wouldn't do anything. At that time, you will probably want to replace your vacuum advance with a new one, remove the distributor and turn it 180 degrees so the bakelight is facing properly (per your other comment). Be sure to read up on my website before attempting. I always change the vac advance when pulling a distributor because its the perfect opportunity and it is a rare occasion.
Deves thank you for getting back to me, where would I find that on your website about removing distributor. Do I need to make sure motor is in a certain position. Before removing distributor and turning 180 degrees
Would you rebuild my 1979 250 this is my fathers 79 chevy c10 short bed it now belongs to me in his memory I will try to keep it as original as it is now the engine is tired wore out but where I live not to many that rebuild engines
Hey Deves I just got my 1959 Chevy truck 235 engine back after a year at a local builders shop, I havent gotten the spec info yet but i requested it to be bored 30 over and that's all i know at preset time, what oil do you recommend for initial start up ? Does the 235 have solid or hydraulic lifters ? Thanks for the information and great videos !
I use Lucas Engine BreakIn Oil. It has additives for the initial startup run that will help seat the rings. The 235 has both kinds of lifters depending on if its a Car engine or Truck engine. Best way to tell is record the number just below and to the right of the Distributor, as well as the number on the Flat of the Distributor base, then go to the website and decipher the number to see which ones you have.
I bought a chrome valve cover for my original 235 on my 55 Bel Air. I noticed radiator fluid coming out of the front bolt hole on the drivers side. What could cause it. It does not come out once I put the bolt in.
Terry, are you talking about the front left (drivers side) valve COVER screw? If I understand that correctly, the only guess I could make is a cracked head. These heads were very susceptible to cracks. This is very commonplace. My suggestion is if the engine runs fine and there is no water in the oil pan, put the screw in and pretend you didnt see it! Eventually, when you do a complete engine rebuild, the machine shop will magnaflux the head and find the cracks. It will require a head replacement, but no need to go there until it is absolutely necessary. I hope this helps!
How can you tell if the distributor is inserted into the oil pump before starting the motor? I'm installing a new distributor and I can't tell if it's in all the way or not
Chris, there is normally about 3/8" between the top of the distributor shaft and the top of the Vacuum Advance bracket when the Distributor is fully seated. I would encourage you to check out: www.devestechnet.com/Home/HEIInstall even if you are not installing HEI, it explains the process in detail. Lots of new content and forums to discuss these issues at devestechnet.com.
Every now and then someone asks where the link to my site is, so maybe I am the only one who sees it clearly in "DevesTechnet.com 47-55 Chevy Truck Info" just below the movie window? More movies to come after the "How to Restore your 1947-1955 Chevy Truck" book is complete and out late this fall.
I have a Chevy 235 from 1954 and when I run it at a higher rpm or try to accelerate it it pops like a backfire out of the carburetor. Do you know what causes this? Could it just be a sticky valve? I’ve set the timing and that seemed to help it when I re adjusted it. What is your advice?
Make sure your wires are connected correctly (153624). That happens more than you know, then I would suspect valves. Maybe do a valve adjustment to see if anything is off. How to do that is on my website. You have to know if you have hydraulic or solid lifters. Engine casting number database will tell you that. Good luck!
after playing with it today i believe its most likely a timing issue. i again re did the timing on it and now it only pops when it accelerates so ill try retarding it more or just taking off the vacuum advance. i think ill figure it out but if i get stuck again i know where to find help. thanks!
I wrote a book for Cartechbooks.com that explains how to rebuild these engines in detail. You can get it on Amazon.com , National Library of Australia , Publishers Group UK or if in the US, from my website at devestechnet.com. On Amazon search for Deve Krehbiel. The book number at cartechbooks.com is SA455. New one coming in February 2020 How to Restore Your 1947-1955 Chevy Truck.
That test stand is one of the best ideas on UA-cam!!
Deve, I have been a fan of your site for a couple years now working on restoring my '50 3100 w/ '59 235. Just recently found your youtube channel though! Just want to say thanks, your articles have helped me (and a buddy who is restoring a '38 chevy) an absolute ton! I just hope mine turns out half as nice as your engine stand!!!
Excellent! Your attention to detail is much appreciated, many thanks.
Jim
All these videos are so helpful
Thanks for you video ... I am about to break in a rebuilt 59 235 engine and I really needed this video . Much appreciated ! Dave
Stovebolt Army front and center! Thanks for your web page info too!!
Nice set up
Thank you. I'll do it for a few months.
I am a Stovebolter, awesome. thanks.
Awesome video, Thanks !
muy buenos motorcitos soy mexicano y tuve un chevrolet de 4 puertas 1939 lo vendí y aora me arrepiento gracias por el recuerdo
You need to make more video's
its eazier to copy and paste the links for the oilfilter conversion and the tdc mark on the flywheel if you put them in the text below
Deves I'm looking to replace my points with an electronic ignition, on my 1953 3100series 216 motor. I was told I should clean up for a better ground the underside of the distributor hold down bracket, and the top surface of the motor where the hold down bracket, makes contact with the motor. My question is if I go to remove that hold bracket do I have to remove distributor. Or once I remove that half inch bolt does that slide out so I could clean it up. It looks to me like that vacuum bracket sits on top. Really don't want to disturb the distributor. Unless there's an easy way of doing it. I never removed it. Thank you for your help and your great videos you make.
Until you are ready to replace the points with HEI, I wouldn't do anything. At that time, you will probably want to replace your vacuum advance with a new one, remove the distributor and turn it 180 degrees so the bakelight is facing properly (per your other comment). Be sure to read up on my website before attempting. I always change the vac advance when pulling a distributor because its the perfect opportunity and it is a rare occasion.
Deves thank you for getting back to me, where would I find that on your website about removing distributor. Do I need to make sure motor is in a certain position. Before removing distributor and turning 180 degrees
@@nickpanhead7209 devestechnet.com/Home/HEIInstall The movie shows it and so does the site there. You can always email me at the address on the site.
Ok Deves I'll check out video, and I'll email you if I have any other questions. If that's ok with you, thank you so much for the help
I have a question by any chance is the Heatriser Springs is installed in the wrong direction?
Sweet!
Would you rebuild my 1979 250 this is my fathers 79 chevy c10 short bed it now belongs to me in his memory I will try to keep it as original as it is now the engine is tired wore out but where I live not to many that rebuild engines
Hey Deves I just got my 1959 Chevy truck 235 engine back after a year at a local builders shop, I havent gotten the spec info yet but i requested it to be bored 30 over and that's all i know at preset time, what oil do you recommend for initial start up ? Does the 235 have solid or hydraulic lifters ? Thanks for the information and great videos !
I use Lucas Engine BreakIn Oil. It has additives for the initial startup run that will help seat the rings. The 235 has both kinds of lifters depending on if its a Car engine or Truck engine. Best way to tell is record the number just below and to the right of the Distributor, as well as the number on the Flat of the Distributor base, then go to the website and decipher the number to see which ones you have.
Thanks, I appreciate your advice, It really helps !
I bought a chrome valve cover for my original 235 on my 55 Bel Air. I noticed radiator fluid coming out of the front bolt hole on the drivers side. What could cause it. It does not come out once I put the bolt in.
Terry, are you talking about the front left (drivers side) valve COVER screw? If I understand that correctly, the only guess I could make is a cracked head. These heads were very susceptible to cracks. This is very commonplace. My suggestion is if the engine runs fine and there is no water in the oil pan, put the screw in and pretend you didnt see it! Eventually, when you do a complete engine rebuild, the machine shop will magnaflux the head and find the cracks. It will require a head replacement, but no need to go there until it is absolutely necessary. I hope this helps!
How can you tell if the distributor is inserted into the oil pump before starting the motor? I'm installing a new distributor and I can't tell if it's in all the way or not
Chris, there is normally about 3/8" between the top of the distributor shaft and the top of the Vacuum Advance bracket when the Distributor is fully seated. I would encourage you to check out:
www.devestechnet.com/Home/HEIInstall even if you are not installing HEI, it explains the process in detail. Lots of new content and forums to discuss these issues at devestechnet.com.
hi can you tell me the battery size i have a 47 fleetline thanks
just listing the link and not actually attaching the link does not allow for watchers to go to that video. please fix
you can COPY the link, & then PASTE & SEARCH the link to find it.
why is it that you no longer make videos
Every now and then someone asks where the link to my site is, so maybe I am the only one who sees it clearly in "DevesTechnet.com 47-55 Chevy Truck Info" just below the movie window? More movies to come after the "How to Restore your 1947-1955 Chevy Truck" book is complete and out late this fall.
Motor K23-6. ?
I have a Chevy 235 from 1954 and when I run it at a higher rpm or try to accelerate it it pops like a backfire out of the carburetor. Do you know what causes this? Could it just be a sticky valve? I’ve set the timing and that seemed to help it when I re adjusted it. What is your advice?
Make sure your wires are connected correctly (153624). That happens more than you know, then I would suspect valves. Maybe do a valve adjustment to see if anything is off. How to do that is on my website. You have to know if you have hydraulic or solid lifters. Engine casting number database will tell you that. Good luck!
after playing with it today i believe its most likely a timing issue. i again re did the timing on it and now it only pops when it accelerates so ill try retarding it more or just taking off the vacuum advance. i think ill figure it out but if i get stuck again i know where to find help. thanks!
figured it out. the exhaust valve on no.2 was stuck. fixed that and now it runs perfect.
Where are you located? Do you do this for the public?
Near Wichita, KS. No, I only have time to help others to do it themselves. All of my contact info is on the website.
where is link to your site?
its devestechnet.com
I wrote a book for Cartechbooks.com that explains how to rebuild these engines in detail. You can get it on Amazon.com , National Library of Australia , Publishers Group UK or if in the US, from my website at devestechnet.com. On Amazon search for Deve Krehbiel. The book number at cartechbooks.com is SA455. New one coming in February 2020 How to Restore Your 1947-1955 Chevy Truck.
New book on How to Rebuild your 216/235/261 Engine available. Check out the details on the website!
Devestechnet.com
Great video ! W here did you find the starter ? I have never seen one that modern? thanks