Your supposed to have three steel rings which support the manifold when installing. Nothing wrong with the gaskets. They have a crimp on them so you can only mount one way.
Your putting money in the Chevy, I would put the two side windows and make it a five window looks better and will be worth more. I love to work on this trucks, I own a five window 53, split manifold it sounds nice. Good luck, greetings from sunny California.
Watching you struggle to get the manifold on makes me feel slightly better about my current situation. Any tips on how to get the intake rings to seat in the manifold? Or is it just an unavoidable struggle?
why dose no one remember to use 2 longer bolts with head cut off as temp studs to set manifolds and gaskets in place then run proper bolts in back out 2 guide "studs" put 2 final bolts torque to spec done, no strain, no slips
A 55 Chevy truck 12-volt starter will work we'll work on your 54 Chevy 235 there is a same engine but this upgraded to 12 volts everything's the same I have a 12-volt starter from my 55 in my 54 Chevy 3800
What is the purpose of that down spout? Can you give a some detail of your solution to replacement? I have a 235 in my 55 series one 3100. She is a project, but the engine does run really well. I'll start her up, no leaks, the next morning I come out and there is a puddle and I think it's coming from the down spout.
If I remember correctly I ordered it on Amazon. I don't have a part number but I know it was a chevy 2 wire alternator so I would just type that on Amazon and take your pick of what you want. My appologies for the slow response. Thanks for watching!
When you converted to 12v, did you have the replace the gauges or anything else? Sorry, lots of questions as I am working on my 55 series one, five window. Mine runs well, but brakes are bad. My first project is converting to disc brakes and dual bowl master cylinder. After that I will tackle these other things
Sorry about the slow response, I've been out of town. I had to replace the fuel gauge since that runs on 12 volts, but according to what I have researched that is the only gauge I should have to replace. According to the internet the amp meter should still work correctly with the 12 volt system but I have not hooked that up yet to verify
@@sundaydriverrides the ammeter works on 6 or 12 volt. oil pressure & temp. guages are mechanical. for the fuel guage you need a 33 ohm resistor, prefer a wirewound, to go between the key & the feed side of the guage. do not put between the guage & the sender.
@@tootsie5052 yeah those are out there pretty cheap, not too hard to swap one in, BUT you lose one of the oddities of the 216 235 261 distributor, the whole thing turning with vacuum advance
@@Texassince1836 Just an answer to the question. I have a '53 Chevy pickup with the 216 and I prefer the original distributor with the Petronix electronic ignition, looks completely original too, which I like.
How do you tell a 235 from a 261, which was also available in 54 Chev trucks? Any "at-a-glance" distinguishing features? Around 1966, I test drove a 55 Chevy car with a 235, being used to the gutsy 261 in my Canadian 55 Pontiac, and I could sure feel the difference in power.
I used the book Chevrolet Inline-6 Engine 1929 - 1962 by Deve Krehbiel to help identify what engine I had. One way he has listed you can identify what engine you have is the casting numbers on the head. Here is what he lists: Casting #3835913 1954-55 235 engine Casting #3836848 1956-62 235 engine Casting #3836850 1956-62 261 engine Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
A 261 has Captains bars on block right near the starter , and with head off it has very small 1/4 inch holes between some cylinders. I have a 261 , that I got extra with my 58 Fleetside and had a 235 head . The head on a 261 had more water flow for warm up faster in cold weather.
to the left of the distributor on the machined part of the block is the engine #. the first 2 letters is the year, the others ?. 261' s weren't available until the late 50"s
I recently removed the valve cover and re-adjusted a valve that was loose and ticking. everything looked fine but no I have not checked the rocker arms while it is running to see if it is getting oil. I just made sure I cleaned the rocker assembly and put it back together correctly then I just make sure I have oil pressure every time I start it.
Hi Chuck, I'm guessing you are talking about the down pipe that I mentioned in the video. Back in the day instead of having a PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve, engines had a breather pipe that would point at the ground so as to relieve crankcase pressure. I have found them to be messy since oil will slowly come out of them. When I found a way to remove that messy down pipe I had to try it. Hopefully it works. Thanks for watching!
@@chuckfish5189 Sorry for the slow response. I see what you are talking about now. That bent pipe fills those tubes the rockers ride on with oil and the other end of that pipe bends down and empties oil on top of the head which drains back down into the oil pan. So the way I see it, even if that hole is not supposed to be there, as long as those rocker tubes are filling and feeding oil to the rockers, which they have to be because that hole is higher than the tubes, I think it will be ok.
@@blakehonl In the book, Chevrolet Inline-6 engine 1929-1962 How to Rebuild by Deve Krehbiel, he shows how to replace the messy down pipe breather with a PCV valve and a 1 1/4" freeze plug.
Love the ending, and the whole video to be honest.
Your excitement when it pops over is electric, I cheered for you as well!
Great job what a wonderful feeling. Happy for you can't wait to start my 53. Almost there with your help thank you
Good job on the build man. Build on a budget! The way to go!
Buen trabajo!!!! Saludos desde Córdoba, Argentina!!!
Enjoyed it, I'm also working on a 235 in my 57 Chevy. Great engines!
Your supposed to have three steel rings which support the manifold when installing. Nothing wrong with the gaskets. They have a crimp on them so you can only mount one way.
I loved your reaction at the end. It seemed a little familiar.
I'm thinking you can drive that sweet truck over to (P.C.) and show us some day !!! Let the snow and ice melt first, nice job!
El bárbaro en esos extintos motores.
Your putting money in the Chevy, I would put the two side windows and make it a five window looks better and will be worth more. I love to work on this trucks, I own a five window 53, split manifold it sounds nice. Good luck, greetings from sunny California.
Watching you struggle to get the manifold on makes me feel slightly better about my current situation. Any tips on how to get the intake rings to seat in the manifold? Or is it just an unavoidable struggle?
I don't have any good tips for that one. Sorry Bud but thanks for watching
I will be so fun tankyou mann
why dose no one remember to use 2 longer bolts with head cut off as temp studs to set manifolds and gaskets in place then run proper bolts in back out 2 guide "studs" put 2 final bolts torque to spec done, no strain, no slips
A 55 Chevy truck 12-volt starter will work we'll work on your 54 Chevy 235 there is a same engine but this upgraded to 12 volts everything's the same I have a 12-volt starter from my 55 in my 54 Chevy 3800
Oh, no! An inadequate nub!
What is the purpose of that down spout? Can you give a some detail of your solution to replacement? I have a 235 in my 55 series one 3100. She is a project, but the engine does run really well. I'll start her up, no leaks, the next morning I come out and there is a puddle and I think it's coming from the down spout.
Can you please provide me with the alternator you used? Part number?
Thanks for your time! 👍🏻👍🏻
If I remember correctly I ordered it on Amazon. I don't have a part number but I know it was a chevy 2 wire alternator so I would just type that on Amazon and take your pick of what you want. My appologies for the slow response. Thanks for watching!
When you converted to 12v, did you have the replace the gauges or anything else? Sorry, lots of questions as I am working on my 55 series one, five window. Mine runs well, but brakes are bad. My first project is converting to disc brakes and dual bowl master cylinder. After that I will tackle these other things
Sorry about the slow response, I've been out of town. I had to replace the fuel gauge since that runs on 12 volts, but according to what I have researched that is the only gauge I should have to replace. According to the internet the amp meter should still work correctly with the 12 volt system but I have not hooked that up yet to verify
@@sundaydriverrides the ammeter works on 6 or 12 volt. oil pressure & temp. guages are mechanical. for the fuel guage you need a 33 ohm resistor, prefer a wirewound, to go between the key & the feed side of the guage. do not put between the guage & the sender.
Would a newer 292 electronic HEI distributor work on the 235?
I am not sure
No
You can buy a new HEI distributor made for the 235.
@@tootsie5052 yeah those are out there pretty cheap, not too hard to swap one in, BUT you lose one of the oddities of the 216 235 261 distributor, the whole thing turning with vacuum advance
@@Texassince1836 Just an answer to the question. I have a '53 Chevy pickup with the 216 and I prefer the original distributor with the Petronix electronic ignition, looks completely original too, which I like.
How do you tell a 235 from a 261, which was also available in 54 Chev trucks? Any "at-a-glance" distinguishing features? Around 1966, I test drove a 55 Chevy car with a 235, being used to the gutsy 261 in my Canadian 55 Pontiac, and I could sure feel the difference in power.
I used the book Chevrolet Inline-6 Engine 1929 - 1962 by Deve Krehbiel to help identify what engine I had. One way he has listed you can identify what engine you have is the casting numbers on the head. Here is what he lists:
Casting #3835913 1954-55 235 engine
Casting #3836848 1956-62 235 engine
Casting #3836850 1956-62 261 engine
Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
A 261 has Captains bars on block right near the starter , and with head off it has very small 1/4 inch holes between some cylinders. I have a 261 , that I got extra with my 58 Fleetside and had a 235 head . The head on a 261 had more water flow for warm up faster in cold weather.
to the left of the distributor on the machined part of the block is the engine #. the first 2 letters is the year, the others ?. 261' s weren't available until the late 50"s
@@garybrown7044 I had one in my 55 Canadian Pontiac; it was the base engine for them. It was first available in 54 Chev trucks.
Did you ever remove the valve. Over once it was running to verify the oil was coming out where it needed to?
I recently removed the valve cover and re-adjusted a valve that was loose and ticking. everything looked fine but no I have not checked the rocker arms while it is running to see if it is getting oil. I just made sure I cleaned the rocker assembly and put it back together correctly then I just make sure I have oil pressure every time I start it.
What is the sensor or whatever it is that you have on the distributor side of the block, by the fuel pump?
That is a positive crankcase ventilation valve that I installed instead of having the old downpipe breather tube which always gets messy over time
Is oil supposed to come out of the pipe? Is the pipe split?
Hi Chuck, I'm guessing you are talking about the down pipe that I mentioned in the video. Back in the day instead of having a PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve, engines had a breather pipe that would point at the ground so as to relieve crankcase pressure. I have found them to be messy since oil will slowly come out of them. When I found a way to remove that messy down pipe I had to try it. Hopefully it works. Thanks for watching!
At 11.25 oil is coming out of the bent pipe. I'm not sure how that pipe works but is it supposed to leak out of there?, out of the pipe..
@@chuckfish5189 Sorry for the slow response. I see what you are talking about now. That bent pipe fills those tubes the rockers ride on with oil and the other end of that pipe bends down and empties oil on top of the head which drains back down into the oil pan. So the way I see it, even if that hole is not supposed to be there, as long as those rocker tubes are filling and feeding oil to the rockers, which they have to be because that hole is higher than the tubes, I think it will be ok.
What did you use, this looks like the area that I had mentioned in my other comment. Very curious about your invention, please share the details!
@@blakehonl In the book, Chevrolet Inline-6 engine 1929-1962 How to Rebuild by Deve Krehbiel, he shows how to replace the messy down pipe breather with a PCV valve and a 1 1/4" freeze plug.
Congratulations