Between the propellants they use and the messed up nozzles they've come up with, it gives a whole new meaning to " they just don't make it like they used to". Good luck with the new can...
that hammer coat paint is 3 parts paint and one part paint thinner. it's good stuff. paint thick coats and try not to overlap till it dries. the can may be sputtering because it's not shaken up enough. you must shake it often while using to keep the paint and solvent mixed in the can. your Briggs videos showed up in my suggested videos. you are building an amazing teaching tool.
I have been painting with that stuff for years. You can not paint with it in a cold area or when it'd hot and humid. The best results are when you bake the part at few hundred degrees. I bet the part that started crinkling was being blow on by the heater? it needs a even heat all the way around. You can go around the project with a heat gun to help even out the effect, It also lays down better when you paint the part laying flat. And the cans do sputter a bit. I like to use it for antique radio cabinets. Or on projects that i want to have that antique look. it takes some practice, but once you get it figured out it looks awesome.
Glad to hear about the fast response from McMaster Carr. I have used them for years with similar results. I am in the Portland OR area and the nearest is San Francisco. I regularly see my orders the next day and it has never been more than 2 days.
Yeah that is frustrating when the paint cans don't spray well. I have had bad luck with that same style of "trigger grip" can. IMHO that is a gimmick and not nearly as effective as a standard spray button. Also, it seems that Rust-Oleum is especially temperature sensitive. I learned (also the hard way!) that the workpiece and the can need to be warm. Next time, try putting the engine block directly in front of the heater until it's hot. Then put the paint can in warm water until it's about 95 to 100°F. This will really help. The can heating will increase the pressure and help the paint to spray out properly without spitting and sputtering. The workpiece heating will help the paint to set up and become tacky before it has time to run and sag. Regardless of the paint job I'm enjoying watching you guys build this demonstration engine. It is going to be one of a kind and really will help demonstrate the 4-stroke cycle principle to people at the shows.
I'd have had to strip it and try again. I'm no paint guy though. If someone is dumb enough to have me paint something it sure gets painted but it usually looks like shit!
Ah Roadking, you finally see why I stopped using Rustoleum spray paints, all their new cans are like that! I have great luck with Duplicolor and their VHT line of epoxy based spray paints! 😆😁😁 The brush on Rustoleum is still good stuff though, I thin that stuff out with thinner and it sprays nice out of a siphon gun
Hi Thanks for the video, I wasn't surprised you didn't like that paint and the problems, I got a tractor here the frame is satin black . I wanted the correct paint color instead of gloss or mat black,to re paint the motor when I rebuilt it. I google searched as it can be hard to find satin in Canada sometimes. Home depot came up and so did the whole spray can issue debates that guys are having ,with those new style paint cans. In the end I found regular satin quart cans in Canadian tire and used that instead,as i didn't want the mess from the spray cans.
I like gray on a engine. I am a Navy brat and have a thing for gray paint. I have a gallon of high temp engine paint from Eastwood that i have been using. That paint on your engine looks like a Earl Shives 29 cent paint job.
That textured paint is tricky.....I thought I was the only one who wasn't always satisfied with it! I think it's best used when you have blemishes you're trying to hide. :) Jack
I've used it, I heated the cans in water to 100 degrees Fahrenheit then worked pretty good. & before all the safety sallies chime in , I know that's not safe. You'll need a rag to hold the can with or good leather glove. Most all spray paint cans I do that to now, really works good.
I've used the same paint as that some time ago and it was doing the same thing. I used a flat black with a primer to paint a set of speaker cabinets. The end result was pretty good but it was spitting and sputtering constantly. I had two cans and both were the same.
If you have any old rusty metal parts to clean,, ( panels, bolts, ect ) try one part of Molasses to 10 pars of water in a tub and soak for 5 to10 days then wash off with water and dry well. Works like Magic on rusty metal parts..
You could put a Febreeze logo on that can. That would piss someone off when they went to clean some dog shit up😂😂 By the way, I am one of yalls biggest fans. I've been subbed for a couple years on different accounts back to around 2012. Sick engine and keep up the good work👍
Those hammer tone paints are often sputtery, chunky, and don't lay down very nice. I find they work best with light coats, dusting really from too far back. Being cold doesn't help either. Warm the can in hot water before spraying and mix the hell out of it.
I always put my spray cans in a container of hot water to make the paint thinner and usually that helps it to spray out more evenly. I found when painting my Gadget Bike that the hammered paints are not very consistent. You will figure it out, EJ.
Thanks George!! Yeah I always keep them in my heater room til I'm ready to use them!! I was able to fix it without having to repaint the whole thing!!☺
I agree with the hot water. It raises the pressure in the can. Also that hammer paint has to be shaken very vigorously for a longer time than most paints.
I use Rustoleum hammered paint often and have found the trigger top cans to be a real problem. I always try to get the regular button top cans as they are much better. You need to have about 70 degrees for it to work right though and have to really get it mixed well or it will clog the tip. Medium wet coats seem to work best with about 10 min. between and usually 3 coats covers nice and looks best to me. I like the copper/bronze color on the 4 cyl. Briggs. It looks like it belongs there. Keep up the good videos buddy!!
I'm thinking of building a heated paint cabinet for my workshop....It gets below freezing in there and ruins the spray paint...Still can't decide whether to paint my hit & miss engine or not...Everyone says leave the old patina but i kinda like to see them prettied up!
I could be wrong but that bad looking grinding done to the one side looks like they probably had a stripped bolt in that mounting hole that had to be cut at some point in the past, maybe.
Loving the build Roadking! I have also experienced many issues with Rust Oleum brand spray paint. I found that ACE Hardware brand spray paint works the best for me. Give it a try sometime!
Never had good luck with those paint & primer combos, whether good can or not, they never do the job. Well with that said its coming along nicely Roadking!
When it's cold out, I've had better luck with Spray Can paint if you let the can sit in real warm or hot water for 10mins or so PRIOR to painting- it would flow better, and lay down better, and not clog in the the nozzle better- Try that if it's below 70* outside budd
I hope the next can is better, though I seem to recall that I have had the exact same experience with a project of mine. Paint nowadays just aint what it used to be - probably because of environmental pollution restrictions. Anyway, thanks for the video. Its nice to finally see someone using the same method as me :)
*Nice to see your getting her done!! Cant wait to see her run with the new head!!* (Also Nice to see i am not the only channel that has the word "SO" in the video So Many times lol) I started to watch for that random "SO" in videos after having ppl bitching to me on my channel "mine was REAL bad lol!! , Lots of ppl do it!! And they are not easy to edit out 50 in a video lol!!!
I like the color.... but not that crappy design of a paint can ...I wonder if you ripped the top sprayer thing off the can ,,It could be used with regular nozzle ,...I have had bad luck with some of the Rustoleum cans with the big round white nozzle
all rustoleum paint always seemed to either do exactly what you describe, or that "360 degree" nozzle that supposed to mimick a spray gun, would put a lot of paint on the edges of the spray and hardly any in the center. really weird. I've always used duplicolor, or VHT, never had an issue ☺
I had so many problems with rustoleum paint spitting and bad cans I've never used it since. I switched to duplicolor and had way better success and it has held up better too.
You got the finish you were supposed to, Hammerite looks like that unless you buy Hammerite smooth, But if you want to paint an engine you need to use Engine enamel which is designed to handle the heat? And if you spay a couple of pieces and then stop, (All spray paints) will tell you to turn the can upside down and spray until paint stops coming out (Air Only) this clears the nozzle for when you start again
It's not a bad can, it's a bad design. I've used Rustoleum paints with that style nozzle, and got the same results you did. Those cans are garbage. Pisses you off when you spend all that time doing prep work, and the project ends up looking like it fell into a bucket of paint. Myself, I'm wary of using gasoline for a degreaser. It works great, but you got to worry about the safety, the stink, and the disposal. I usually use a 5 gallon bucket full of hot water with a heavy handed pour of Zep purple degreaser. Works really well, with none of the above mentioned drawbacks.
We have paint like that in the uk under the name Hammerite, when I've used it I found it goes on much better using a brush from a regular paint can. Will you polish the piston top to get maximum reflection and brightness from the gas burn?
We have hammertite here in the US but it's more expensive and harder to find than rustolum. Truthfully the regular hammertone isn't half bad. That primer and paint in one in my personal experience has been nothing but crap no matter what finish it's supposed to be.
The nozzle of the can needed cleaned. If you would have sprayed it where it was warm, that would have helped keep the spray nozzle from getting so plugged. On top of that spraying in the cold weather also affected the paint itself too much. When spraying anything from a compressed source it's temperature drops rapidly so add that temperature drop to the outside temperature, and it adds up to failure. At least with that type of a paint it does.
too cold to paint thats why I can not work on my cub cadet until it gets warm again. It needs to be at least 60 degrees and 70 is even better. Heat up your block really hot in front of the stove first maybe before you take it out side.
Nothing sucks worse than having a bad can of paint. I bought a "Special orange" can of OEM Kubota paint, and it was doing the same thing. Like an idiot, I bought a second one, and that can did it as well. I ended up getting some off the shelf orange Rustoleum, and it worked fine. (Less than half the cost). Sorry, really no moral to that story, but I feel your pain.
Rustoleum makes a good product but I've had a couple cans with that specific top give me some trouble spraying. They seem to want to spit non-stop like with that can.
Calm down, calm down,,,, lol,,, yeah RK, the moment you pulled the trigger you could hear it spit. Like the old cheap cans use to . Hopefully the next can will be good. I never tried the hammered look type paint. Interesting.
Yeah, I think I heard that spitting when you were painting the block. I agree with you and the other guys here, that's not a good paint covering job. Like you said, wait 'till it dries and re-spray it with the copper or bronze as you did before. Good luck with the next coat.
The can being too cold can result in sputtering especially with stuff like this which is thick to begin with. Heat up the cans in a bucket of warm water if you're painting in less than ideal temps.
I was all in on the pewter until you shot it. I like the look and hope it was a bad can/spray nozzle. I can't recall having a new can sputter like that, but I haven't used the hammered finish either. Do you think that old, original paint lasted so long because it was lead-based?
Luckily I was able to salvage that to look decent!! I think the lead definitely had alot to do with the longevity!! When I use to remove paint on Battleships, you would know exactly when you came across the lead paint, it was almost like it was glued on!!☺
Question? I just noticed that the two valves have two holes on the top. It seems that a spanner wrench would fit in them to maybe rotate the valves. So, what are they for?
Please don't give Obama the credit for ethanol. When I was in tech school for Diesel mechanics (Before the Minnesota Department of Education stuck their nose in and ruined them and required instructors to have a four year degree) we were testing a way to inject pure ethanol into a diesel engine to get more economy from it. It was a failure but it worked good in gas engines. This was 1979 when Carter was president and continued on while Reagan was president. It was a big thing in the Midwest prairie region as it got rid of a lot of corn that was just sitting in piles as the Oil embargo killed the farm economy. Let us give Jimmy Carter the praise for all this mess we ended up with. The farm economy really did not improve during the next few years until Bill Clinton benefited from some of the stuff Reagan put into action. When GMO came into the picture the crops nearly doubled in size and with the Ethanol industry helping get rid of this surplus corn it started to get better on the farm. Yep subsidies were propping it up but Hmmm, I believe the Oil companies were getting their fair share of our tax payer dollars also. The technology I am all for but I don't like to see something get subsidized after it a technology should be able to support itself.
1crazynordlander I'm a big fan of ethanol. I learned about it about 10 years ago and I started using it almost full time a few years after that. Unfortunately I live in a state that doesn't have lots of E85 pumps, but I still stock up on it and run it in everything from my car, lawnmower, chainsaw, etc... I really like using it in my small engines because I don't reek like exhaust fumes after I'm done working, and I haven't seen any adverse reactions in any of my machinery. My car (regular gas car) was converted (larger injectors and a retune, later supercharged) almost 100k miles ago and it's been trouble free, it's actually doing better than it would have been if I ran it on gas. I just wish we had more of it around, and more of an effort was put into creating it. We put so much effort into gasoline and pollution concerns aside (what people really tend to focus on), it's a really out of date fuel. it's such low octane that it's holding our modern engines back from creating awesome reliable power.
volvo09 Are you using the E85 in your small engines or the E10? I have flex fuel vehicles and run it in those in the past but with the price of gas it is hardly worth it now. We are in the middle of farm country in SW Minnesota and one of the first corn processing plants is only 25 miles from us in Marshall MN. Not only do you get ethanol from corn but corn syrup and corn gluten (DDG) which is fed to cattle.
No one should take any credit for corn based ethanol. If anyone bothered to check, it takes more than a gallon of fossil fuel to convert a gallon of ethanol. Corn based ethanol is a lie, at best. At worst it is a scam that is stealing billions from people that don't even know they are being robbed. Wake up.
I used that exact same paint before and it's junk. Mine was a normal spray can though. To get it to look even somewhat like the texture on the can, I had to spray coats so thick that they nearly started dripping off.
I've used this paint before and it works best above 65 degrees. Also you have to apply it with a slower motion then regular paint. When I used it, it didn't spit and sputter out like yours did.
The "Here's what it should look like" finish on the can looks about the same as my Tristar CXL vacuum, but, that result with that dodgy spray, yeah, not a good product there...
maybe you didn't put enough paint on? I know, I know, you guys know how to paint. but generally hammer tones, veins, rivers, and the like require almost what you'd consider too much with regular gloss and matte coats. At least this has been the case in my experience with powder coating. if you spray too little then it usually comes out looking like you did a base coat of one color then a weird mist of the other, or the effect is just much less pronounced. If you spray enough however the veins or hammer tone will begin to emerge. Try a second, third, maybe even fourth coat. mess around with coat thicknesses, etc.
Between the propellants they use and the messed up nozzles they've come up with, it gives a whole new meaning to " they just don't make it like they used to". Good luck with the new can...
Thanks Bud!! We were able to salvage what we had without having to repaint it!!☺
that hammer coat paint is 3 parts paint and one part paint thinner. it's good stuff. paint thick coats and try not to overlap till it dries. the can may be sputtering because it's not shaken up enough. you must shake it often while using to keep the paint and solvent mixed in the can.
your Briggs videos showed up in my suggested videos. you are building an amazing teaching tool.
Man, I started laughing even before the bowl of lacquer thinner was blown off the stool. "Calm down, it'll evaporate".
I know somebody would get riled up when that happened!!☺
I have been painting with that stuff for years. You can not paint with it in a cold area or when it'd hot and humid. The best results are when you bake the part at few hundred degrees. I bet the part that started crinkling was being blow on by the heater? it needs a even heat all the way around. You can go around the project with a heat gun to help even out the effect, It also lays down better when you paint the part laying flat. And the cans do sputter a bit. I like to use it for antique radio cabinets. Or on projects that i want to have that antique look. it takes some practice, but once you get it figured out it looks awesome.
I'm sure you will get the paint work squared away. The paint prep was helpful information! Looking forward to more!
Thanks Steve!! We were able to salvage it!!☺
Glad to hear about the fast response from McMaster Carr. I have used them for years with similar results. I am in the Portland OR area and the nearest is San Francisco. I regularly see my orders the next day and it has never been more than 2 days.
Yeah that is frustrating when the paint cans don't spray well.
I have had bad luck with that same style of "trigger grip" can. IMHO that is a gimmick and not nearly as effective as a standard spray button.
Also, it seems that Rust-Oleum is especially temperature sensitive. I learned (also the hard way!) that the workpiece and the can need to be warm. Next time, try putting the engine block directly in front of the heater until it's hot. Then put the paint can in warm water until it's about 95 to 100°F. This will really help. The can heating will increase the pressure and help the paint to spray out properly without spitting and sputtering. The workpiece heating will help the paint to set up and become tacky before it has time to run and sag.
Regardless of the paint job I'm enjoying watching you guys build this demonstration engine. It is going to be one of a kind and really will help demonstrate the 4-stroke cycle principle to people at the shows.
You're remarkably calm about that paint.
Yeah Shit happens, I knew it wouldn't take too much to fix it!!☺
I'd have had to strip it and try again. I'm no paint guy though. If someone is dumb enough to have me paint something it sure gets painted but it usually looks like shit!
Ah Roadking, you finally see why I stopped using Rustoleum spray paints, all their new cans are like that! I have great luck with Duplicolor and their VHT line of epoxy based spray paints! 😆😁😁 The brush on Rustoleum is still good stuff though, I thin that stuff out with thinner and it sprays nice out of a siphon gun
Hi Thanks for the video, I wasn't surprised you didn't like that paint and the problems, I got a tractor here the frame is satin black . I wanted the correct paint color instead of gloss or mat black,to re paint the motor when I rebuilt it. I google searched as it can be hard to find satin in Canada sometimes. Home depot came up and so did the whole spray can issue debates that guys are having ,with those new style paint cans. In the end I found regular satin quart cans in Canadian tire and used that instead,as i didn't want the mess from the spray cans.
I like gray on a engine. I am a Navy brat and have a thing for gray paint. I have a gallon of high temp engine paint from Eastwood that i have been using. That paint on your engine looks like a Earl Shives 29 cent paint job.
That textured paint is tricky.....I thought I was the only one who wasn't always satisfied with it! I think it's best used when you have blemishes you're trying to hide. :) Jack
I've never had any problems with Hammer paint before!! It does look good on the right application though!!☺
I've used it, I heated the cans in water to 100 degrees Fahrenheit then worked pretty good.
& before all the safety sallies chime in , I know that's not safe. You'll need a rag to hold the can with or good leather glove.
Most all spray paint cans I do that to now, really works good.
I've used the same paint as that some time ago and it was doing the same thing. I used a flat black with a primer to paint a set of speaker cabinets. The end result was pretty good but it was spitting and sputtering constantly. I had two cans and both were the same.
I painted my office window frame with that paint, the key is to go slow and put it on even and thick in solid motions.
I liked the paint.
If you have any old rusty metal parts to clean,, ( panels, bolts, ect ) try one part of Molasses to 10 pars of water in a tub and soak for 5 to10 days then wash off with water and dry well. Works like Magic on rusty metal parts..
You could put a Febreeze logo on that can. That would piss someone off when they went to clean some dog shit up😂😂 By the way, I am one of yalls biggest fans. I've been subbed for a couple years on different accounts back to around 2012. Sick engine and keep up the good work👍
Thanks Bud!! We appreciate you watching!!☺
805ROADKING yeah!
Those hammer tone paints are often sputtery, chunky, and don't lay down very nice.
I find they work best with light coats, dusting really from too far back. Being cold doesn't help either. Warm the can in hot water before spraying and mix the hell out of it.
I think the spitting/sputtering of the spray paint is part of how it gives the finished paint the "hammered" look.
I always put my spray cans in a container of hot water to make the paint thinner and usually that helps it to spray out more evenly. I found when painting my Gadget Bike that the hammered paints are not very consistent. You will figure it out, EJ.
Thanks George!! Yeah I always keep them in my heater room til I'm ready to use them!! I was able to fix it without having to repaint the whole thing!!☺
I agree with the hot water. It raises the pressure in the can. Also that hammer paint has to be shaken very vigorously for a longer time than most paints.
I painted my mower deck and engine with that paint and had no problem. I guess the difference is it was 80 something degrees outside.
I use Rustoleum hammered paint often and have found the trigger top cans to be a real problem. I always try to get the regular button top cans as they are much better. You need to have about 70 degrees for it to work right though and have to really get it mixed well or it will clog the tip. Medium wet coats seem to work best with about 10 min. between and usually 3 coats covers nice and looks best to me. I like the copper/bronze color on the 4 cyl. Briggs. It looks like it belongs there. Keep up the good videos buddy!!
Thanks Bud!!☺
I'm thinking of building a heated paint cabinet for my workshop....It gets below freezing in there and ruins the spray paint...Still can't decide whether to paint my hit & miss engine or not...Everyone says leave the old patina but i kinda like to see them prettied up!
I have NEVER had luck with that paint!!!
I like rustoleum, but I'll never use that shit again!!☺
I'll second that. I always had problems with that type of paint. NEVER again will I waste my money on it.
It slobbered all over my hand too. Useless design.
StarPuss www.ToxicRedNeck.Com He should used engine paint, when the engine heats up he wont like that either!!!
they have plans to not let this engine heat up much , low rpm , propane, the paint he was using is good for some heat.
I could be wrong but that bad looking grinding done to the one side looks like they probably had a stripped bolt in that mounting hole that had to be cut at some point in the past, maybe.
Loving the build Roadking! I have also experienced many issues with Rust Oleum brand spray paint. I found that ACE Hardware brand spray paint works the best for me. Give it a try sometime!
Thanks Bud!!☺
Don't panic RoadKing don't panic!! hehehe :)
Never had good luck with those paint & primer combos, whether good can or not, they never do the job. Well with that said its coming along nicely Roadking!
Thanks Bud!! Yeah we're never gonna buy it again!!☺
ive had great success with that paint
Definitely a bad can. The one thing bad cans are good for is to put them on a fence post and put a 9mm through it😃
Dave Ackerman 1967 Yep, a .40 or a 9mm, that can makes a fun target!
you should paint it black and yellow like a firefly sense it's gonna be flashing like one.
When it's cold out, I've had better luck with Spray Can paint if you let the can sit in real warm or hot water for 10mins or so PRIOR to painting- it would flow better, and lay down better, and not clog in the the nozzle better- Try that if it's below 70* outside budd
I hope the next can is better, though I seem to recall that I have had the exact same experience with a project of mine. Paint nowadays just aint what it used to be - probably because of environmental pollution restrictions. Anyway, thanks for the video. Its nice to finally see someone using the same method as me :)
Thanks Jes!! We got it straightened out!!☺
Super!! Wheres next episode, then? :P
*Nice to see your getting her done!! Cant wait to see her run with the new head!!*
(Also Nice to see i am not the only channel that has the word "SO" in the video So Many times lol) I started to watch for that random "SO" in videos after having ppl bitching to me on my channel "mine was REAL bad lol!! , Lots of ppl do it!! And they are not easy to edit out 50 in a video lol!!!
SO what are you sayin'!!☺
Nice work buddy! You'll fix that paint I know!
Thanks Will!! We got it under control!!☺
you should try cleaning up a motor all shiny like you did with this... and then just clear coat it.
I like the color.... but not that crappy design of a paint can ...I wonder if you ripped the top sprayer thing off the can ,,It could be used with regular nozzle ,...I have had bad luck with some of the Rustoleum cans with the big round white nozzle
Maybe I rip the top off when I get some time and see what's under there!!☺
I have found that if you heat the can in boiling water for 5 minutes and oven bake the block to about 200*, it works a lot better.
Nice and clean!
Great work!
Thanks Bud!!☺
all rustoleum paint always seemed to either do exactly what you describe, or that "360 degree" nozzle that supposed to mimick a spray gun, would put a lot of paint on the edges of the spray and hardly any in the center. really weird. I've always used duplicolor, or VHT, never had an issue ☺
well paint looks industrial and i kind of like it
I'm still waiting for next update well done
Thanks Jim!! Fri Morning!!☺
"that obama gas" hahaha love it dude.
I had so many problems with rustoleum paint spitting and bad cans I've never used it since. I switched to duplicolor and had way better success and it has held up better too.
I've been using rustoleum for years and never had a problem!! But that's the first and last time I'll use that kind of can!!☺
i think it should be white or silver to match the clean glass and that new muffler you were using
I think it looks rad, leave it!
you should always warm up the paint can. Dip it in hot water or put it in front of a heater. always comes out better when the paint can is warm.
You got the finish you were supposed to, Hammerite looks like that unless you buy Hammerite smooth, But if you want to paint an engine you need to use Engine enamel which is designed to handle the heat? And if you spay a couple of pieces and then stop, (All spray paints) will tell you to turn the can upside down and spray until paint stops coming out (Air Only) this clears the nozzle for when you start again
It's not a bad can, it's a bad design.
I've used Rustoleum paints with that style nozzle, and got the same results you did. Those cans are garbage.
Pisses you off when you spend all that time doing prep work, and the project ends up looking like it fell into a bucket of paint.
Myself, I'm wary of using gasoline for a degreaser. It works great, but you got to worry about the safety, the stink, and the disposal.
I usually use a 5 gallon bucket full of hot water with a heavy handed pour of Zep purple degreaser. Works really well, with none of the above mentioned drawbacks.
Really nice series :)
Thanks alot Bud!!☺
Sounds like the can has a partly blocked nozzle.
We have paint like that in the uk under the name Hammerite, when I've used it I found it goes on much better using a brush from a regular paint can.
Will you polish the piston top to get maximum reflection and brightness from the gas burn?
We have hammertite here in the US but it's more expensive and harder to find than rustolum. Truthfully the regular hammertone isn't half bad. That primer and paint in one in my personal experience has been nothing but crap no matter what finish it's supposed to be.
Nah it already bright enough without polish!!☺
I agree with ya DJ!! I've been using the regular Hammertone for years and never had a problem!!☺
The nozzle of the can needed cleaned. If you would have sprayed it where it was warm, that would have helped keep the spray nozzle from getting so plugged. On top of that spraying in the cold weather also affected the paint itself too much. When spraying anything from a compressed source it's temperature drops rapidly so add that temperature drop to the outside temperature, and it adds up to failure. At least with that type of a paint it does.
Lookin good
Thanks Bud!!☺
too cold to paint thats why I can not work on my cub cadet until it gets warm again. It needs to be at least 60 degrees and 70 is even better. Heat up your block really hot in front of the stove first maybe before you take it out side.
ROADKING. I was hoping for a lime green color, in view of the clean-burn propane fuel, and the educational design.
That would be cool if it was a more modern engine!! I couldn't live with myself doing that to a 65 year old engine!!☺
I think that color looks good for a small engine just wait until it heats up maybe bluing will bring it out more!?!
I've had cans like that.....a real pain. Didn't look too bad on the video for the most part, but I'm sure you've fixed it.
Thanks Mate!! Just a fly in the ointment!! We got it under control!!☺
bad spray top or it was cleaned right?
I think those cans do that because of the paint inside and that is how they get that effect
Nothing sucks worse than having a bad can of paint.
I bought a "Special orange" can of OEM Kubota paint, and it was doing the same thing.
Like an idiot, I bought a second one, and that can did it as well.
I ended up getting some off the shelf orange Rustoleum, and it worked fine. (Less than half the cost). Sorry, really no moral to that story, but I feel your pain.
The moral of the story is stay away from that special Shit!!☺
Bummer! I've had hit'n miss results from those cans as well... no pun intended!
Lol!! You're killin' me Mo!!☺
Rustoleum makes a good product but I've had a couple cans with that specific top give me some trouble spraying. They seem to want to spit non-stop like with that can.
Yeah I've always had good luck with Rustoleum and I use alot of it!!☺
Sorry to see the trouble you had with the paint been there my self
Thanks Joe!! Just another fly in the ointment eh!!☺
nice job.
Thanks Josh!!☺
Obamagas lol!!!!
Calm down, calm down,,,, lol,,, yeah RK, the moment you pulled the trigger you could hear it spit. Like the old cheap cans use to .
Hopefully the next can will be good. I never tried the hammered look type paint. Interesting.
Luckily I was able to salvage it without having to repaint the whole thing!!☺
Yeah, I think I heard that spitting when you were painting the block. I agree with you and the other guys here, that's not a good paint covering job.
Like you said, wait 'till it dries and re-spray it with the copper or bronze as you did before.
Good luck with the next coat.
Thanks Reg!! We were able to salvage it without having to repaint it!!☺
The can being too cold can result in sputtering especially with stuff like this which is thick to begin with. Heat up the cans in a bucket of warm water if you're painting in less than ideal temps.
I ain't worried... You will fix it.
Thanks Mate!! Yeah we got it, just a minor fly in the ointment!!☺
I was all in on the pewter until you shot it. I like the look and hope it was a bad can/spray nozzle. I can't recall having a new can sputter like that, but I haven't used the hammered finish either. Do you think that old, original paint lasted so long because it was lead-based?
Luckily I was able to salvage that to look decent!! I think the lead definitely had alot to do with the longevity!! When I use to remove paint on Battleships, you would know exactly when you came across the lead paint, it was almost like it was glued on!!☺
805ROADKING You worked on what?
Battleships, Aircraft Carriers and Subs for 10 years!!☺
Well , It was suppose to look better than that ..LOL ! who knows , But I bet the king will come up with a plan !!
Thanks Bud!! We got it under control!!☺
It was a good try. It has some good protection now so after sanding and another coat it will look fine.
Thanks Bud!! We were able to salvage it without having to repaint it!!☺
Question? I just noticed that the two valves have two holes on the top. It seems that a spanner wrench would fit in them to maybe rotate the valves. So, what are they for?
jbmbanter Those holes are for a valve lapping tool, it looks like a big screw driver with two pegs on the end.
The few times I have used a rustoleum with that spray head type cap I have had the same terrible result. Don't know why they still make em.
Yeah I've never had any problems with Rustoleum and I use alot of it, But I'll never use that type of can again!!☺
Same here regular spray nozzle always fine that one always a mess- good luck can't wait to see it done!
Aight
Is there a video of it running with the glass head?
Yeah part 17, will be up saturday!!
Please don't give Obama the credit for ethanol. When I was in tech school for Diesel mechanics (Before the Minnesota Department of Education stuck their nose in and ruined them and required instructors to have a four year degree) we were testing a way to inject pure ethanol into a diesel engine to get more economy from it. It was a failure but it worked good in gas engines. This was 1979 when Carter was president and continued on while Reagan was president. It was a big thing in the Midwest prairie region as it got rid of a lot of corn that was just sitting in piles as the Oil embargo killed the farm economy. Let us give Jimmy Carter the praise for all this mess we ended up with. The farm economy really did not improve during the next few years until Bill Clinton benefited from some of the stuff Reagan put into action. When GMO came into the picture the crops nearly doubled in size and with the Ethanol industry helping get rid of this surplus corn it started to get better on the farm. Yep subsidies were propping it up but Hmmm, I believe the Oil companies were getting their fair share of our tax payer dollars also. The technology I am all for but I don't like to see something get subsidized after it a technology should be able to support itself.
1crazynordlander I'm a big fan of ethanol. I learned about it about 10 years ago and I started using it almost full time a few years after that. Unfortunately I live in a state that doesn't have lots of E85 pumps, but I still stock up on it and run it in everything from my car, lawnmower, chainsaw, etc... I really like using it in my small engines because I don't reek like exhaust fumes after I'm done working, and I haven't seen any adverse reactions in any of my machinery. My car (regular gas car) was converted (larger injectors and a retune, later supercharged) almost 100k miles ago and it's been trouble free, it's actually doing better than it would have been if I ran it on gas. I just wish we had more of it around, and more of an effort was put into creating it. We put so much effort into gasoline and pollution concerns aside (what people really tend to focus on), it's a really out of date fuel. it's such low octane that it's holding our modern engines back from creating awesome reliable power.
volvo09 Are you using the E85 in your small engines or the E10? I have flex fuel vehicles and run it in those in the past but with the price of gas it is hardly worth it now. We are in the middle of farm country in SW Minnesota and one of the first corn processing plants is only 25 miles from us in Marshall MN. Not only do you get ethanol from corn but corn syrup and corn gluten (DDG) which is fed to cattle.
you should check out hydrogen... 1k degrees F. 130+ Octane.
No one should take any credit for corn based ethanol.
If anyone bothered to check, it takes more than a gallon of fossil fuel to convert a gallon of ethanol.
Corn based ethanol is a lie, at best. At worst it is a scam that is stealing billions from people that don't even know they are being robbed.
Wake up.
Do you use high temp paint there? Or wil normal paint hold if the engine isnt that hot?
Nah, it's just regular paint!! I did use high temp on the exhaust pipe!!☺
I think spray cans work best at temperature's above 60-75 degrees. At 40 degrees the paint becomes heavier making it seem like your can is defective.
I used that exact same paint before and it's junk. Mine was a normal spray can though.
To get it to look even somewhat like the texture on the can, I had to spray coats so thick that they nearly started dripping off.
We have a problem with a lot of spray paint this time of year at work. Theory is it's from the can's freezing during shipment due to the cold weather.
Yeah that's all it takes to shit up the works and ya have no way of knowing when ya buy the stuff!!☺
I've used this paint before and it works best above 65 degrees. Also you have to apply it with a slower motion then regular paint. When I used it, it didn't spit and sputter out like yours did.
I put my spray cans in some warm water for an half hour or so to warm them up
I like the bronze better, but oh well.
Gun cleaning kits have some good wire brushes you can use and they are cheap
I used that same paint on my dash in my s10 drag truck, it acted the same like paint was to thick and heavy to come out nozzle.
I've use their regular Hammered for years without any problem!! But that paint and primer mix seems to be junk from all the comments I've gotten!!☺
The wetter you apply the more hammering will result - just don't go too wet or it will run.
when spray paint is cold it sprays like crap. i sit mine in front of the heater for a few moments and works fine
if you have to remove the paint/primer .. use all the safety in the world, and Aircraft stripper. It's terrifying how quickly it removes paint!
Mad props for "Obama Gas" comment.
The "Here's what it should look like" finish on the can looks about the same as my Tristar CXL vacuum, but, that result with that dodgy spray, yeah, not a good product there...
I have tried that paint too Before.
WTF Cal!! I can't catch a break!!☺
Man I hate it for you. Keep plugging away man. LOL
Maybe it's supposed to spay like that? So you get the right texture.
could it have been due to temperature?
"That Obama gas has a lot of alcohol in it" Hilarious
I try to tell these young guys fuel injection cleaner is a joke because n the old days. We use gasoline to clean engine parts.
You cleaned it up too good RK...Shoulda wiped it down with WD40...lol
Thanks Zig!! I had enough problems with that shit without creating more!!☺
Would have left plenty of hammer/fisheyes to it before it all fell off...lol
maybe you didn't put enough paint on? I know, I know, you guys know how to paint. but generally hammer tones, veins, rivers, and the like require almost what you'd consider too much with regular gloss and matte coats. At least this has been the case in my experience with powder coating. if you spray too little then it usually comes out looking like you did a base coat of one color then a weird mist of the other, or the effect is just much less pronounced. If you spray enough however the veins or hammer tone will begin to emerge. Try a second, third, maybe even fourth coat. mess around with coat thicknesses, etc.
Question -- what would i need to do to the cam shaft to create a steam engine ?? thanks frank