This is why I love old cars, a couple of blokes replacing engine components at the side of the road. Just like it used to be. This is why I love this channel. Keep it up guys, this is great 👍
Back when I was a young man we just blocked the car up in the air in a gravel driveway and worked all night to replace the clutch or whatever was needed so we could go cruising the avenue the next night. I still remember blowing the clutch on a medium blue 66 Chevelle SS396 one night and laying on the gravel pulling the transmission so I could put in the new clutch. Seemed like a lot of fun at the time even though the gravel wasn't that fun!
It sounds 100% better, Sheldon, well done to you and David. A couple of things to double check, though, before you put any miles on it. Did you check the flow direction on the SU fuel filter ? They're directional, and there is an arrow moulded into the plastic body, or it will say in/ out. Get it the wrong way around, and it can quickly clog the inside gauze and give mysterious fuel starvation symptoms at intermittent revs. There should be the same type of filter, without the compression fitting nuts, fitted at the rear of the engine on the right angled brass pipe on the crankcase ventilation system. That filter, if blocked, can allow pressure to build up and cause oil to be forced out of gaskets. It should be fitted with "in" nearest the crannkcase takeoff pipe as it sucks crankcase fumes into the intake airstream. Just like with the fuel filter, the dirty fuel or air goes into the outside of the filter, and the clean stuff comes out of the middle, so you can see the state of the filter through the plastic case. The other thing to check is the water pump to heater box transfer pipe. It's the metal one bolted to the underside of the intake manifold. They're mild steel, and from the state of all that 50 odd years of solidified top end coolant crud, it would have been wise to replace it. They rot from the inside, and you'll get coolant sitting on the valley gasket once they get a pinhole. If it goes, you'll get a coolant air leak/ airlock / hotspot, and an erratic or undereading temperature gauge that can cause head gasket failure. They're easy enough to fabricate a new fit and forget copper tube replacement. You should be able to reuse the valley gasket if you've not done any mileage.
That thin pipe David was querying between the carbs and radiator is a water hose. It's the air bleed off pipe, and it ensures there's coolant flowing up to the plenum chamber, an no airlock in the highest coolant point on the engine. It's a water heated intake manifold, so check that thin metal outlet pipe isn't blocked, or you'll get a hotspot and fuel vaporisation.
You had the heater hoses correct first time. Bottom connection on inlet manifold goes to top connection on heater. In practice it doesn’t make much difference but the wrong way round can allow air to be trapped.
Your content just keeps getting better - respect. Now that you have a car with a reasonable body and engine why not keep her a while, pass your test and start taking her to car shows? Still missing Toad but you are, IMHO, not putting a foot wrong.
It does have a water valve on the heater box, it's under the insulation jacket. You'll get an air lock and a top end hotspot if it's not set to "hot" when filling it up. You should run it at fast idle, around 1500 rpm for at least 5 minutes once it's up to temperature. The coolant level should be around an inch below the filler neck, or just over the transmission oli cooler tube that is visible inside the filler neck. FCheck the coolant from cold and fit the radiator cap with it running at fast idle, or you'll always be running on low coolant as the heater matrix will drain down.
You can do jubilee clips with a socket, so it doesn't keep slipping off. There's a first time for everyone, doing all the different jobs there are to do on a car. Next time, you'll be 'on it like sonic'. 😂 What you learn here, you'll be able to apply another day, maybe the same job, or something a bit different. It's all really only nuts and bolts, a few spanners and a big hammer and you'll be able to tackle anything. Get some L plates on it. Enjoy it a bit before you sell it. 👍 Take care.
Good to see your getting the engine back up and running properly I know it's cost you a fair bit but at least you can work on it not like newer cars but owning a classic car is expensive is mum still not happy with you after the live stream you did 😂🤣 but at least you still have a mum who cares about you mate
Not good practice to use a screwdriver to tighten jubilee clips. They tend to slip and wear the screw slot. A wrench or socket (most current ones tend to be 7mm) avoids slippage and makes for a tighter clip.
@@classic_britain Halfords do a 25 piece, 1/4 inch drive socket set for 17 quid. Excellent quality and just the thing for jubilee clips and similar tasks. Sockets from 4mm to 14mm, uj and extensions. Treat yourself and make your hoses tighter.
It will circulate fast as there is a thermostat bypass hose to direct hot water around, from the water pump, to the heater matrix before the thermostat opens. A P6B's heater should start to receive rising temperature coolant, and give off heat within minutes of startup.
Have you shimmed the rocker shaft posts to ensure correct tappet/valve clearances. Were there any shims when you previously removed the rocker shafts ? Incorrect clearance may have caused your previous tappet problem
Pretty sure that expansion hose from the radiator shouldn’t be going to the inlet manifold! Should not that vacuum outlet go to the distributor advance mechanism?
There's a reason we don't work on cars in sandals..... you'll find out when you drop something on your foot 😊
My Mrs does everything in steel toecap flipflops 😂 yes it's hilarious when it happens & it does quite often
Yep it was foolish of me but it was only light work!
Even a small dropped socket or bolt will break a toe if wearing sandals !
This is why I love old cars, a couple of blokes replacing engine components at the side of the road. Just like it used to be. This is why I love this channel. Keep it up guys, this is great 👍
Glad you like it
Back when I was a young man we just blocked the car up in the air in a gravel driveway and worked all night to replace the clutch or whatever was needed so we could go cruising the avenue the next night. I still remember blowing the clutch on a medium blue 66 Chevelle SS396 one night and laying on the gravel pulling the transmission so I could put in the new clutch. Seemed like a lot of fun at the time even though the gravel wasn't that fun!
All you need now is a Licence to drive it ! Take care 🙂
Surely he has that by now ?
@@doveronefoxtrot4417 NO !
It sounds 100% better, Sheldon, well done to you and David. A couple of things to double check, though, before you put any miles on it. Did you check the flow direction on the SU fuel filter ? They're directional, and there is an arrow moulded into the plastic body, or it will say in/ out. Get it the wrong way around, and it can quickly clog the inside gauze and give mysterious fuel starvation symptoms at intermittent revs. There should be the same type of filter, without the compression fitting nuts, fitted at the rear of the engine on the right angled brass pipe on the crankcase ventilation system. That filter, if blocked, can allow pressure to build up and cause oil to be forced out of gaskets. It should be fitted with "in" nearest the crannkcase takeoff pipe as it sucks crankcase fumes into the intake airstream. Just like with the fuel filter, the dirty fuel or air goes into the outside of the filter, and the clean stuff comes out of the middle, so you can see the state of the filter through the plastic case. The other thing to check is the water pump to heater box transfer pipe. It's the metal one bolted to the underside of the intake manifold. They're mild steel, and from the state of all that 50 odd years of solidified top end coolant crud, it would have been wise to replace it. They rot from the inside, and you'll get coolant sitting on the valley gasket once they get a pinhole. If it goes, you'll get a coolant air leak/ airlock / hotspot, and an erratic or undereading temperature gauge that can cause head gasket failure. They're easy enough to fabricate a new fit and forget copper tube replacement. You should be able to reuse the valley gasket if you've not done any mileage.
That thin pipe David was querying between the carbs and radiator is a water hose. It's the air bleed off pipe, and it ensures there's coolant flowing up to the plenum chamber, an no airlock in the highest coolant point on the engine. It's a water heated intake manifold, so check that thin metal outlet pipe isn't blocked, or you'll get a hotspot and fuel vaporisation.
Glad you bit the bullet on this one and looking forward to the road test.
Bloody hell Aron, it never sounded that good when the old man had it. Job well done mate. Top work from yourself and Dave
Thanks Mark cost me enough LOL Thanks for being so cool about the entire thing =)
You had the heater hoses correct first time. Bottom connection on inlet manifold goes to top connection on heater. In practice it doesn’t make much difference but the wrong way round can allow air to be trapped.
FFS now I got to sort it LOL
Hi Sheldon glad it all worked out well, can't wait for test drive with lucus? Cheers 🥂
I do hope David got his second cup of tea 😌 Sterling work gentlemen, entertaining as always
Your content just keeps getting better - respect. Now that you have a car with a reasonable body and engine why not keep her a while, pass your test and start taking her to car shows? Still missing Toad but you are, IMHO, not putting a foot wrong.
I have Cup that is restored so I will be keeping that
Fan belt's still flapping!!! Make sure the heater is set to HOT when bleeding through. 😃
Yeah going to ajust it
There’s no valve on the p6 heater so it makes no difference, hot or cold.
It does have a water valve on the heater box, it's under the insulation jacket. You'll get an air lock and a top end hotspot if it's not set to "hot" when filling it up. You should run it at fast idle, around 1500 rpm for at least 5 minutes once it's up to temperature. The coolant level should be around an inch below the filler neck, or just over the transmission oli cooler tube that is visible inside the filler neck. FCheck the coolant from cold and fit the radiator cap with it running at fast idle, or you'll always be running on low coolant as the heater matrix will drain down.
Glad you finally got going well, just need a driving license now to drive it!
Indeed!
WELL DONE SHELDON ☹️, you just cost me £20 😂, I bet my mate you would BALLS IT UP !!! 😁, damn you didn’t lol 😂, joking aside you did good 👌🏻.
BAHAHAHAA yeah it went well!
You can do jubilee clips with a socket, so it doesn't keep slipping off.
There's a first time for everyone, doing all the different jobs there are to do on a car. Next time, you'll be 'on it like sonic'. 😂
What you learn here, you'll be able to apply another day, maybe the same job, or something a bit different.
It's all really only nuts and bolts, a few spanners and a big hammer and you'll be able to tackle anything.
Get some L plates on it. Enjoy it a bit before you sell it. 👍
Take care.
Yes sadly I don't have any metric sockets atm
For old, stiff hoses, hold them in a mug of boiling water to soften them up.
Hope you paid your man well Sheldon, and you did well to fit a hose 🤣
I know my spanner skills are next level
Love the color always fancied one of these
Great Achievement.
Thanks!
Love your videos always great to watch
Glad you like them =)
Good to see your getting the engine back up and running properly I know it's cost you a fair bit but at least you can work on it not like newer cars but owning a classic car is expensive is mum still not happy with you after the live stream you did 😂🤣 but at least you still have a mum who cares about you mate
Yeah thankfully not many people have seen her!
In all your car spares, you wouldn’t have a spare V8 engine, the P6 we have been doing up has a cracked block!
Message me on Facebook Sheldon Talago
Good job lad!!
Abit of good luck for a change 🤗👍🇮🇪
Nice !! Sowing machine :) great work 👍
Not good practice to use a screwdriver to tighten jubilee clips. They tend to slip and wear the screw slot. A wrench or socket (most current ones tend to be 7mm) avoids slippage and makes for a tighter clip.
I know sadly I don't have any metric sockets
@@classic_britain Halfords do a 25 piece, 1/4 inch drive socket set for 17 quid. Excellent quality and just the thing for jubilee clips and similar tasks. Sockets from 4mm to 14mm, uj and extensions.
Treat yourself and make your hoses tighter.
Its rocking around the clock😅
Parcel tape brown.
Yes I noticed that 🤣
Haha, I was going to say the same thing. Great minds think alike 👍
Sounds great. BTW what temperature thermostat does it have? It seemed the water was circulating in the radiator pretty quickly after start up.
It got to about 40 before it opened but it's not the most accurate gauge
It will circulate fast as there is a thermostat bypass hose to direct hot water around, from the water pump, to the heater matrix before the thermostat opens. A P6B's heater should start to receive rising temperature coolant, and give off heat within minutes of startup.
A job well done 👍
Have you shimmed the rocker shaft posts to ensure correct tappet/valve clearances. Were there any shims when you previously removed the rocker shafts ? Incorrect clearance may have caused your previous tappet problem
Yes we did but not on camera as the battery died at the time
Plum
Your neighbour is probably disappointed that he can't report you to the cops for the proceeds of drugs.,,. 😞😄
hahaha he's a good guy
@@classic_britain good
Pretty sure that expansion hose from the radiator shouldn’t be going to the inlet manifold! Should not that vacuum outlet go to the distributor advance mechanism?
Nope that's where it goes
No
Need to straighten the reg plate
Yep got to get another sticky pad for that side
@@classic_britain congratulations. You did a really good job the engine sounds wonderful
Does it have a thermostat fitted. The water seemed to circulate very quick from cold.
Yeah it does and a new one it's just the video
Engine running very sweet Sheldon
run it on waterless coolant