Due to fibreglass being flexible there would be pressure and lots of movment with the bottom and walls. You would need to continue thickening that area . Also LONGER STRIPS . Not bad thou. You have the right idea. I love seeing another Aussie on UA-cam. Hi from Tassie
Good job just a little advice friend, its good to cut a bigger piece of fiberglass to overlap the smaller one just to make sure its glued down realy well,Great job Im fixing to do some small repairs on my fiberglass kayak and i will do the same as i told you.thanks for the video😊
I’m learning a lot about boat repair by watching your videos and reading the comments. Keep up the good work! I appreciate your enthusiasm for life long learning. If you don’t learn something new every day, it’s a day wasted.
Hi Matt. Just starting on replacing a rotten floor (will put in new stringers and 18m ply floor. So much one google, but you give very sound followable tutorials. Mines a 14ft Marlborough. Thank you for sharing your wisdom.
Nice. If you want to save work and not fear push through, place a ziplock taped on the exterior firmly. Helps with a smooth surface and epoxy won’t stick to it
You did a great job just covering so someone can see and perhaps remember if they haven't had their hand in it just to get back in to be ready and confident to do a repair.
Im about to embark on this "journey" haha so this was great and I read some of the comment, very helpful. Love constructive advise and QUEENLANDER! hahaha
I enjoy your videos mainly because your just a guy having a go. Maybe list or show the products you use , where you got them and what they cost. Would like to have a go at a project boat one day myself
Hi Keith - Cheers for the comment. I’m absolutely just a guy having a go (certainly don’t know what I’m doing! 😉). I think I’ll do a full video with what I used and how much it all cost. I think that could be pretty valuable!
Good simple video and repair. Looking at the state and age of the boat, I would recommend that the restoration of the boat would be extended right along that Strake, since it is a critical structural element in the boat and has probably failed because the area was flexing too much. I would suggest sanding the hull back along the strake/chine and *filleting* with *epoxy resin* mixed with an epoxy filler powder to make a lightweight filler that is highly adhesive. Fill (to about 2/3 full) the strake and squeegee it smooth with a cheap rubber scraper or similar. Then make a new batch of resin, and brush it on neat, onto the fillet and along the surrounding hull down the length that needs strengthening. This is for laying a woven glass tape into, 100mm wide, at least 200gm, wet it out and let it cure. You will have doubled the strength of that chine. If you don't have the filler powder, use the glue powder and some fine sander dust, eg from a belt sander bag. Epoxy resin is marginally stronger than your polyester, and adheres twice as well to old fibreglass, which is really important. Happy fishing...
How thick of a layer of resin can you get in one pour? I believe the larger the volume, the better the cure, due to it needing the thermal reaction around it?
@@DeepSeaDaddy111 That resin is a Bunnings Fibreglass kit right? It is Polyester resin? (the label says Styrene in fine print) I have a lot of this and want to fix my boat (very old Bertram Carribean 3.8) I When I did the floor it seems to not like to stick to the other older fibreglass very well (easily lifted or pried off). Any idea why this is the case and what resin I should use?
@@kangacrew540 YEah, thanks for your comment. I ripped the whole floor out and did it and the stringers again from beginning. Thanks for your help though.
Very helpful Matt, as I just discovered a crack in the hull at the transition point between the bottom hull and the transom. After viewing your video, I believe I can make a good repair, Thank you, Mike Milam '70
I think he did a good job. The biggest thing I would point out, is that your glass was not wide enough. So you need more surface area for the fiberglass to stick to to be sure that the repair does not come off or pop out later on. One other suggestion would be to also sand down a small area on the outside and then lay glass everywhere that you send it this way when you’re standing there, you don’t just stand the glass off that you just applied. I hope that makes sense. Great video you did a good job.
I have no idea about fixing these things, but why wouldn't you put a few layers from the outside as well? Because water pressure is trying to come in from the outside?
Hi mate . Looking for advice as to the best place to get the fibreglass supplies . Not easy to find stuff in central west nsw. Just about to start a project 1985 swiftcraft half cabin
Good job bud, sand back the outside hull where the hole is and give it 1 coat of chop and 2 coats of resin spreading layers of resin longer then the hole size. The bunnings repair kit will have plenty for that but avoid the bunnings resin kit for transom and stringers or your pockets will cry. KEEN ON THE NEXT VID!!
Thanks mate! You’re dead on, when I flip the hull over to do the hull painting I’ll be doing a good fix on it from the outside. Agreed on bunnings prices for this stuff! You’ll see in my next video I’ve got all the supplies from a direct Fibreglass supplier - Much more viable price point!
That resin is a Bunnings Fibreglass kit right? It is Polyester resin? (the label says Styrene in fine print) I have a lot of this and want to fix my boat (very old Bertram Carribean 3.8) I When I did the floor it seems to not like to stick to the other older fibreglass very well (easily lifted or pried off). Any idea why this is the case? SHould I trip it all back and use 'epoxy' resin? And for the helpful comments guys! Thanks for all your videos.
That resin is a Bunnings Fibreglass kit right? It is Polyester resin? (the label says Styrene in fine print) I have a lot of this and want to fix my boat (very old Bertram Carribean 3.8) I When I did the floor it seems to not like to stick to the other older fibreglass very well (easily lifted or pried off). Any idea why this is the case and what resin I should use? Thanks for all your videos.
anyone have any info on why he chose the interior instead of the exterior to repair? wouldn't it resist future damage better from the exterior since water pressure would only push the new glass on harder?
If you use resin from a auto store or big box store it won’t be strong or last. The resins they sell are cheap and old. You always need to use fresh resin like you get from a boat supply or West System resin. Old resin doesn’t hold up. I hope you used resin with was added on this job since you didn’t use a backer board .
Short vid, you kind of skipped the cleaning bit before epoxy to remove dirt and oil or anything like that, gloves and mask working tih epoxy and fibre, you can also soak the fibre bfor laying it down.
Honestly, I don't actually know. I was given the recommendation to use poly because it has a wax built into it that effectively rises to the surface to seal it from air and help it set. Apparently epoxy can also be more brittle, but it looks like that's an ongoing debate. I've also read that epoxy can stick to any surface, whereas poly is best applied over previous poly. So ultimately it comes back to what your boat currently is, and what you've got access to. There are MANY people who know more about this than me, I've just gone off the recommendations of others. They both feel/work very similarly in my experience.
Not just gloves. Catalyst/ hardener is what gets into lungs as you breathe it in an eventually fucks you up from the inside out. Get a proper organic mask mate.
your using poly resin not epoxy, next time tear the chop strand instead of cutting it and maybe a few more larger overlapping layers... you really put hardly anything in the area.
Yep, absolutely right on both counts - The beauty of putting these videos out there is all the feedback I'm getting on what to do next! Thanks for sharing.
@@MattKellyFishingGlad you took Seven's comment the right way. He really is correct. I'm sure that your repair will hold just fine, but as far as "doing it by the book" Seven is telling you right. It is a good video though. It is a great service to put it up and show people that aren't experts that they really can do their own repairs.
THANKS for eliminating the overblown explanations that 99% of youtubers use to fill time. Very to-the-point. You made it look easy--I'm on it!
Due to fibreglass being flexible there would be pressure and lots of movment with the bottom and walls. You would need to continue thickening that area . Also LONGER STRIPS .
Not bad thou. You have the right idea. I love seeing another Aussie on UA-cam. Hi from Tassie
With several split seams on our fiberglass houseboat, this was the only video I could find that really helped our specific situation. Thanks!
Good job just a little advice friend, its good to cut a bigger piece of fiberglass to overlap the smaller one just to make sure its glued down realy well,Great job Im fixing to do some small repairs on my fiberglass kayak and i will do the same as i told you.thanks for the video😊
I’m learning a lot about boat repair by watching your videos and reading the comments. Keep up the good work! I appreciate your enthusiasm for life long learning. If you don’t learn something new every day, it’s a day wasted.
I did these in the Mil on Helos. I was trained to brush out bubbles after dabbing. Everything else was a great.
Hi Matt. Just starting on replacing a rotten floor (will put in new stringers and 18m ply floor. So much one google, but you give very sound followable tutorials. Mines a 14ft Marlborough. Thank you for sharing your wisdom.
Nice. If you want to save work and not fear push through, place a ziplock taped on the exterior firmly. Helps with a smooth surface and epoxy won’t stick to it
What is a ziplock? You mean like sandwich wrap? Like plastic baggies?
You did a great job just covering so someone can see and perhaps remember if they haven't had their hand in it just to get back in to be ready and confident to do a repair.
Im about to embark on this "journey" haha so this was great and I read some of the comment, very helpful. Love constructive advise and QUEENLANDER! hahaha
I award you the best Fibreglass work King 2020!
Matt would it be a good idea to also patch the outside too?
Love your work. There's many ways to get it done, some better than others. Appreciate your willingness to share. Keep up the good work.
thanks mate good to get the bubbles out dont forget to sand it down then after that you would gelcoat it to match your hull color
Brilliant! Great video. Thanks for the coaching.
Polyester resin can not go on top of epoxy resin glass. It will eventually delaminate. But you can put epoxy resin on top of anything.
U did good man I would go over the outside as well but other than that looked 👍
Watching from Bermuda Island🇧🇲 2024🥇
Thx for a great video, I am now gonna go out and fix my boat
I enjoy your videos mainly because your just a guy having a go. Maybe list or show the products you use , where you got them and what they cost.
Would like to have a go at a project boat one day myself
Hi Keith - Cheers for the comment. I’m absolutely just a guy having a go (certainly don’t know what I’m doing! 😉).
I think I’ll do a full video with what I used and how much it all cost. I think that could be pretty valuable!
Good simple video and repair. Looking at the state and age of the boat, I would recommend that the restoration of the boat would be extended right along that Strake, since it is a critical structural element in the boat and has probably failed because the area was flexing too much. I would suggest sanding the hull back along the strake/chine and *filleting* with *epoxy resin* mixed with an epoxy filler powder to make a lightweight filler that is highly adhesive. Fill (to about 2/3 full) the strake and squeegee it smooth with a cheap rubber scraper or similar. Then make a new batch of resin, and brush it on neat, onto the fillet and along the surrounding hull down the length that needs strengthening. This is for laying a woven glass tape into, 100mm wide, at least 200gm, wet it out and let it cure. You will have doubled the strength of that chine. If you don't have the filler powder, use the glue powder and some fine sander dust, eg from a belt sander bag. Epoxy resin is marginally stronger than your polyester, and adheres twice as well to old fibreglass, which is really important. Happy fishing...
How thick of a layer of resin can you get in one pour? I believe the larger the volume, the better the cure, due to it needing the thermal reaction around it?
I think its called "polyester resin" 🤣🤣🤣. Another great video Matt. Love your work.
I think you might be right!!! 😉
Epoxy and polyester resin are two different kinds. Both can be used for this application
@@DeepSeaDaddy111
That resin is a Bunnings Fibreglass kit right? It is Polyester resin? (the label says Styrene in fine print) I have a lot of this and want to fix my boat (very old Bertram Carribean 3.8) I When I did the floor it seems to not like to stick to the other older fibreglass very well (easily lifted or pried off). Any idea why this is the case and what resin I should use?
@@easemailboxes could be a chemical reaction etc. Did u prepare the old part . Cleaned properly. Keyed in. The idea is to create a bonding.
@@kangacrew540 YEah, thanks for your comment. I ripped the whole floor out and did it and the stringers again from beginning. Thanks for your help though.
Great Video Matt! Looking forward to seeing more!
Thank you Callum!
Thank you. I need to repair a horse float roof and this is very helpful.
Very helpful Matt, as I just discovered a crack in the hull at the transition point between the bottom hull and the transom. After viewing your video, I believe I can make a good repair, Thank you, Mike Milam '70
Yo man , good job . Easy and shortly 🤟😎
use masking tape on the back of the crack to give the glass some backing to shape to.
Nice job brother. Thank you.
I think he did a good job. The biggest thing I would point out, is that your glass was not wide enough. So you need more surface area for the fiberglass to stick to to be sure that the repair does not come off or pop out later on. One other suggestion would be to also sand down a small area on the outside and then lay glass everywhere that you send it this way when you’re standing there, you don’t just stand the glass off that you just applied. I hope that makes sense. Great video you did a good job.
Good Video🎯🎉
I have no idea about fixing these things, but why wouldn't you put a few layers from the outside as well? Because water pressure is trying to come in from the outside?
Try pre soaking chop strand much easier and better end result
Gloves people, gloves!
I have similar cracks on my boat, but I put 1708 and then a few pieces of CSM on the outside for the cosmetics.
Hi mate . Looking for advice as to the best place to get the fibreglass supplies . Not easy to find stuff in central west nsw. Just about to start a project 1985 swiftcraft half cabin
So basically what you’re saying is I can put a much glass on as I want, it’s all down to how long I have in my resin before it hardens?
I would have used some glass cloth as part of the repair. Cloth is stronger than CSM. How did you finish the outside?
Good job bud, sand back the outside hull where the hole is and give it 1 coat of chop and 2 coats of resin spreading layers of resin longer then the hole size.
The bunnings repair kit will have plenty for that but avoid the bunnings resin kit for transom and stringers or your pockets will cry.
KEEN ON THE NEXT VID!!
Thanks mate! You’re dead on, when I flip the hull over to do the hull painting I’ll be doing a good fix on it from the outside.
Agreed on bunnings prices for this stuff! You’ll see in my next video I’ve got all the supplies from a direct Fibreglass supplier - Much more viable price point!
@@MattKellyFishing Which supplier please Matt?
That resin is a Bunnings Fibreglass kit right? It is Polyester resin? (the label says Styrene in fine print) I have a lot of this and want to fix my boat (very old Bertram Carribean 3.8) I When I did the floor it seems to not like to stick to the other older fibreglass very well (easily lifted or pried off). Any idea why this is the case? SHould I trip it all back and use 'epoxy' resin? And for the helpful comments guys! Thanks for all your videos.
Thanks mate that’s all I wanted to know 👍 Great
Exactly, short , simple and full of info. No need for filler content to monetize off ads. Respect
That resin is a Bunnings Fibreglass kit right? It is Polyester resin? (the label says Styrene in fine print) I have a lot of this and want to fix my boat (very old Bertram Carribean 3.8) I When I did the floor it seems to not like to stick to the other older fibreglass very well (easily lifted or pried off). Any idea why this is the case and what resin I should use? Thanks for all your videos.
@Aaron Anderson Thanks Aaron!
Hi matt great video mate
Thanks Dennis!
Should you not do both sides? Curious as I’m about to do Almost same exact repair
Yep, you can and should!
Why not use fibreglass woven mat? It's quite thick comparitively and very strong.
thanks bud! very nice and to the point
anyone have any info on why he chose the interior instead of the exterior to repair? wouldn't it resist future damage better from the exterior since water pressure would only push the new glass on harder?
I didn't cover it in the video, but I actually did it on both sides.
perfect job matt
hey matt the bungs that you suggested to me fit cheers but umm quick question are all sea jay bungs the same
Not sure mate, I think that’s a pretty standard size though.
ok bugger i will do some research then
I have a Flying T serial Number 1029, what year would this be made. Catamaran
good very practical thanks to share
Hello, tell me please, how i can to understand which resin need to use polyester or epoxy? Thanks.
Great water
What beach did you find that wreck on?
Just kidding...nice video.
If you use resin from a auto store or big box store it won’t be strong or last. The resins they sell are cheap and old. You always need to use fresh resin like you get from a boat supply or West System resin. Old resin doesn’t hold up. I hope you used resin with was added on this job since you didn’t use a backer board .
That works for me
Short vid, you kind of skipped the cleaning bit before epoxy to remove dirt and oil or anything like that, gloves and mask working tih epoxy and fibre, you can also soak the fibre bfor laying it down.
Whats the difference between epoxy and polyester. Is one more suitable than the other?
Thanks
Honestly, I don't actually know. I was given the recommendation to use poly because it has a wax built into it that effectively rises to the surface to seal it from air and help it set. Apparently epoxy can also be more brittle, but it looks like that's an ongoing debate.
I've also read that epoxy can stick to any surface, whereas poly is best applied over previous poly. So ultimately it comes back to what your boat currently is, and what you've got access to. There are MANY people who know more about this than me, I've just gone off the recommendations of others. They both feel/work very similarly in my experience.
Just a quick tip, dont cuy chop strain. Tear it in to shape, it will blend in nicely.
Tear and stretch it, kind of pull it as you set it into the resin. You will save yourself a lot of sanding on aesthetic parts.
As a boatbuilder that hull is fucked
Nice ikea hammer 😉
As long as iy stays afloat thats all that mattets
Where is your ppe
Love it!
Thanks!
Tip: Put some gloves on.
Not just gloves. Catalyst/ hardener is what gets into lungs as you breathe it in an eventually fucks you up from the inside out. Get a proper organic mask mate.
dude would have saved himself some time if he just sprayed the hole with some Flexseal
that’s the half assed way to do it, does that work well though?
@@urboi3543 oh come on, of course I was joking (I thought it was obvious...)
People out there would actually try what you said... believe it or not, people are that stupid! 😆
Why does he keep saying epoxy and then it puts the foot note of polyester at the bottom of the screen. Very different products
Because he calls it epoxy by habit, when really in this specific case we're using polyester. They are very different, just slipped up on camera.
First!!!!!
First
First;
You are very handsome...my sister like you
Music is horrible to listen to while you talk
your using poly resin not epoxy, next time tear the chop strand instead of cutting it and maybe a few more larger overlapping layers... you really put hardly anything in the area.
Yep, absolutely right on both counts - The beauty of putting these videos out there is all the feedback I'm getting on what to do next! Thanks for sharing.
@@MattKellyFishingGlad you took Seven's comment the right way. He really is correct. I'm sure that your repair will hold just fine, but as far as "doing it by the book" Seven is telling you right. It is a good video though. It is a great service to put it up and show people that aren't experts that they really can do their own repairs.
@@scottsouder6450 i agree. thanks to Matt also
That repair is wrong and will not last
Great water
Great water