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Hurra! Thank you, man, I 'v been waiting so long for this! Love what u doing for us so much! 👍 It's a pity that because of the fucking politics from our country, it's impossible to buy your book now. 😏
@JeLifeCoach it's crazy I now feel like I have a direct drive wheel base, I was about to upgrade from an 8nm to something higher which I will still do but im kinda satisfied with what I have for now. I can actually feel the car it's so strange and is going to take a lot of learning again
Awesome! After a year of racing I just realized, because of this video, that I had all my cars set to 50%! Just changed the settings and can now feel SO much more!
I was the same bro, i just got this promotion on Amazon and I got a g920 as his recommended in some other video, now I am so into the sim racing world, I hope you can have the same chance , you will love it .
I directly bought a wheel and started sim racing without knowing any basics And im very bad at it currently. It's best that you continue on your controller and master the basics and have knowledge as much as you can before getting a wheel
@@SPARTEN007 yeah ive been playing on controller for almost 1 year and ive studied a lot about technique and my pace was actually somewhat good but I know that a controller and a wheel are whole different things so probably it takes some time to get used to even if you already know the basics. I’m buying the t300 somewhere from feb to june
Been playing controller my entire life. (24 years old). Just recently bought a $1600 sim setup and I STILL use controller cause I'm faster lmao. I can feel what the car is doing through specific vibrations. It's not a bad thing to be on controller. It is only a game after all. Just use what you will be more competitive on or just have more fun on. Cause wheels can be a pain in the butt lol.
This is an excellent video. Simple to understand. Having a video that clearly describes what ffb you should be feeling whilst giving a rough approximation of the nm of different categories of cars is really useful
I'm a new (and now consistent) subscriber - I can't believe these videos have less than a million views - these are great introductions to sim racing and the fundamentals of racing in general!! Keep it up!
Wow, I have a Fanatec dd1 and for the longest time I had the base set at 100% Force and would turn down intensity to range between 72% to 75%. Now I see that I should had actually have intensity at 100% and reduce the force in the base for what I would find good. Very interesting and looking forward to try if I can extract more detail from my DD1. I’m speaking about iracing of course.
This helped me with my g29. I had my ffb strength too high for my 2.5nm wheel. Lowering the strength brought out the details of the wheel a lot better. Ty
Amazing video Suelio! Finally a good explanation about this! If anyone has a CSL DD 8NM share your config down here so we can try different settings inside iracing! 🤘🏼
Amazing video. Currently I play mainly on GT7 on PSVR2, so not a lot of control on FFB, but the knowledge of how the wheel should feel under understeer and oversteer is gold! I have a Logitech G923 now, so not a lot of force, but looking forward to upgrade it sooner than later
What helped me to get a better feel and "light hands", was to turn down the FFB for a few weeks. I steadily increased it back up and have a much better understanding and feeling of the FFB.
Ah man, im using a g29 and even had the FFB set for the Miata wrong, so i was getting only half of the already weak FFB :D It changed everything, its not that my hands weren't light enough, it's just that it didn't give enough feedback even for that, so thanks for the video
Any chance you would ever upload your exact iracing settings between different cars for your Logitech pro wheel? This is seriously absolutely amazing descriptions though and really helped me understand clipping. I just struggle so much with balancing the dampener, true force, and filter
FFB is such a powerful tool. I think I've found out a genius strategy to improve your trailbraking effectively without feeling like you're cheating. Just drive F1 cars with no assists (on assetto corsa for example) for a certain amount of time every day. Because the car has the highest level of downforce, you also get the highest level feeling of the wheel going lighter when you slow down. So when you're trailbraking, the progressive smooth lightness of the wheel sends feedback directly to your foot and without thinking, you smoothen out your line. I have big issues with stairing my inputs on other cars, but never in F1 and I'm starting to feel like the more I develop this muscle memory, the more it becomes independent from the force feedback information. And holy shit is it satisfying to be able to drive an F1 car to the limit, it feels like you're a different person, but all it really is is just listening to the force feedback!
It does make you feel like a different person lol. I've been driving the super formulas in iracing lately an it took a bit of practice to learn that the downforce really helps you go fast thru corners but it's crazy satisfying when you get it right. Its at Watkins Glen right now an you barely have to use the brakes there except for a few turns
Great stuff as always! I've just got my brand-new moza r12 and I have to say that for now, I'm kind of lost in all the settings (dampers, inertia...) so I haven't reach that point where you feel the wheel lighter on understeer... But I'll keep trying haha
In AC and ACC i set up my FFB to start to clip at T1 of Suzuka on a fast surface. The steering will feel heavy on most turns but will usually only clip over bumps. G923 with 3nm.
Incredible amount of information!! Could you maybe do I video explaining how to adapt the driving style based on the engine placement in the car? I've met with this issue recently while switching from AMS2 to RaceRoom. I know how the Porsche GT3 feels in AMS2 and the first car I tried in RaceRoom was the said Porsche. While in AMS2 I was always able to control the rotation of the car with the throttle, In R3E I found myself having heaps of understeer in most corners while on power. I was able to adapt on the fly after a few laps but felt like I wasn't extracting the maximum from the car. After thinking about it and looking up online I found out that well it's supposed to be that way (because of the engine placement and the fact that the weight shifts to the rear while on power so fronts just have less grip, it's a trait of the car) and AMS2 just had this bit of handling wrong...
Finally someone who likes ffb and doesnt kill there wheelbase. Like daniel he likes such a dead feeling wheel it makes no sense to me. Hes taken realism and forgotte that the wheel needa to pick up on the feelings you would feel in the car the things we cant feel so thw eheel should make up for those. People who use more ffb and feel they may be slower is because thwy have bad habbits and relied on broken physica throwing rhe car around instead of relying on perfect braking and throttle inputs with wheel adnustments while driving. The car will tell yoy where its at you shouldnt be happy about being fast while forcing the car all over the place and being fast by sliding way more then most and just pushing past breaking physics lol. But i leave my ffb maxed in software and lower the gain in game to keep all of that dynamic range. It feels so so much better in my wheelbases this way.
5:58 - "Always try to manage your weight transfer so that the front tires are always in the peak force feedback resistance" That is incorrect. Peak resistance is always earlier than peak slip angle. While steering wheel is starting to get lighter, there's still more grip in the tires.
iRacing’s linear mode off works like this. It multiplies all forces by 1.6x, so that 0-50% car output maps to 0-80% wheel output. That gives you more detail in that lower half. The problem is you don’t care about detail in that lower half. You care about detail in the upper half. And with linear mode off that means the top half of car output only has the top 20% of your wheel’s range remaining to work with. And to make matters worse, since there is a 1.6x multiplier involved it has to use a dynamic range compressor to make the top half fit into that 20% range. So not only does it use a reduced range, it squishes the signal to fit within that smaller range. Linear mode off is garbage for that reason. You will feel much more detail in the upper half, where it actually matters, if you have linear mode on.
What about in other sims like Assetto Corsa that don't have a linear mode checkbox? And what about the "Linear/Peak" setting on the software for Fanatec wheels?
@@DerekMoore82 I only know how iRacing’s linear checkbox works because many years ago I spoke about it with David Tucker, the programmer responsible for FFB, among other things. He explained how it works, and that’s what I’ve shared here. It was originally meant to help with how weak wheels were ~15+ years ago so that you’d have more feeling in the lower range. When we talked him into adding the feature he did so only reluctantly, as he didn’t think it would be worthwhile. But after he did so, many of us thought it was a massive improvement, and so he kept it. He’s actually changed his mind a few times over the years as to whether or not people should use linear mode. He used to feel it was better with it turned off, but many of us were pretty vocal about how much better we thought it felt after he added it at our request. Nowadays, wheels have way too much strength available to even try to push the non-linear mode as a plus, I think. It could help weak wheels feel better down low, but at the expense of the feeling up high. This trade-off no longer seems necessary when we’ve got wheels that are 4x-15x stronger and beyond.
@@ClaytonMacleod Thank you for talking that guy into it. Maybe I'll get iRacing for Christmas and try it out. I was always scared off by the subscription model and having to pay so much for each car and track, especially in this economy.
@@DerekMoore82 Well, I don’t see it as any different than buying a new version every year. It’s got a renewal deal every year for 25% off, and at the same time it is 50% off for new subscriptions. Subscribing for $75/year isn’t any different than buying iRacing 2024 for $75 and then buying iRacing 2025 for $75 next year. Plus, every three months you get a newer, better version when they release the new update after each 12-week season. Having to buy each car and track separately costs you some more money, yes, but it can also save you some money. If all you’re ever going to do is race NASCAR there’s not much point in spending money on all the dirt cars, the rally cars, and the insane number of road cars. Pick any discipline, and if that’s all you’re ever going to do you wouldn’t want to spend money buying all that other content. If that’s what you want to do then iRacing’s business model actually saves you money. You only buy what you want to use. If they charged one price for everything they’ve released it would be so high that barely anyone would want to pay it. One thing you have to keep in mind is that nobody is simulating everything to the degree that iRacing does. They don’t just have generic car models with different skins and a few variables tweaked. “Make this one a little faster.” Their physics is far above any competitor’s. Right down to the direction the shafts turn in the engine and how that affects a car’s handling. Nobody else simulates as much stuff as they do. And they’re always working on improving how everything is simulated. It’s not perfect. And there’s always ways they can make things better. And they’re always trying to do so. All that stuff costs money. Laser scanning cars and weighing all the parts costs money. Doing dyno runs costs money. Gathering all the data required to build their cars and then doing so costs money. Laser scanning tracks and building them costs money. I think their prices for a car or a track are a bargain for what you get. And what you get is something that is as close to the real life thing as you can get. All the parts layouts physically match the real car’s layout and behave the same way the real cars do. It’s not just a generic car model tweaked to be a little faster or slower or have a little more or less grip. It behaves the same way the real car does because it is built with the same dimensions and angles and everything. It simulates things very well. And it only keeps getting better. $75/year for an incredible amount of entertainment and excitement throughout the year is damn cheap, as far as I’m concerned. What’s that? Three movies? I’d rather have iRacing. ;)
Will the auto function overwrite any manual value I set for max force? If not: is there a general value that works well as a middle ground for all cars in iracing? Is there an overview list of cars in iracing and what max force they put out in the sim? Similar to your real life examples, so we have a value to set for each car type.
In addition to this: is irffb recommendable? I heard that it adds some SoP feedback - coming from acc which I think natively has SoP ffb elements, iracing feels dull (I just started iracing yesterday so might not have the best tuned ffb now) but I was thinking about irffb
Appreciate the video , picked up a Moza r9 v2 after enjoying my Logitech g920 . I love the auto system but is it normal for the mx5 to have the same as formula vee ? For some reason it’s giving me the same 14.0 nm . I changed it to 20.9 nm though . Still understanding the pit house but still video helped out a lot and making me a faster driver. I feel it already .
Suellio I love your videos but there is that editing fx that I find very annoying sometimes. When the screen fades to black very quickly, this is distracting. Like @1:27 and @2:14 and @10:27 and @16:25…Not a fan. As always, thank you for this wonderful content and valuable information.
I see what you mean the rapid color swap from the orange to the white back to the orange is like a little flash-bang going off. I could see why light sensitive people could find that annoying.
Can you explain why you use 900 vs 1080. I have the same base, I thought iracing adapts soft bump stops for each car. Is there an advantage to go with 900 max?
So i have a Moza R9 V2 and get clipping in the LMP2, would you be able to point me in the direction to have a great setting that feels normal and without loosing strength.
Ok so I have the Fanatec CS DD..on auto it selects 12nm and 8 nm. In Sports cars it barely ever uses 1/4 of the bar and always stays green. In the Open Wheel cars it clips bad. So to test I unchecked the auto and changed the 8 to 12, and while it slid the top 12 to the right a bit when I drove there was virtually no clipping… Not sure if that is correct or not.. Intensity 100% and followed all your other suggestions. Should I be getting higher signal in the sports cars? ( Should I uncheck auto and move the second slider up? ) And so on.. just curious if anyone can provide a bit more clarity lol. Worried the signal is too weak on Sports and too high on Formula.
I just got into sim racing I started playing grid legends but I don’t have a wheel because I can’t quite afford one yet can i practice these techniques on controller
When I use the auto function the FFB is way too high even on my 5.5nm base and the steering is way too heavy - are you saying to tune the FFB on the wheelbase software to something more comfortable (if we're using auto function in iRacing)? I'm confused as I thought if you put the base software FFB strength below 100% you are 'wasting' the performance of your base and you will end up with more clipping?
Are you saying I should feel the FFB getting lighter if I turn the wheel beyond its optimal angle? Tried it in the Ferrari GT3 at Centripetal but could not feel a difference. I was in 2nd and also tried 3rd gear while keeping a constant throttle input and then turned the wheel way into understeer. I could see the FFB bar fluctuating (all in green so no clipping), but could not feel a difference. I focused on light hands and tried with my left and also right hand only. Tried different levels of force but no difference. I did feel a difference though when releasing and pressing the throttle, so it’s not that I don’t feel any changes at all. But I’ve always been strugling with feeling most of the cars in iRacing. Maybe I need to try different positions, i.e. playing with height, distance and angle of the wheel to find my personal sensitivity window?
Bro, is hard about this linear mode, you always say to set it on, but I've seen some other professional racers saying to shut it off, so idk what to do since I am new into this sim race world
Hi, Suelio what is the live graph telemetry what You are using. On ioverlay i cant See throttle blip due downshift. What is the reason? Because of overlay software?
How much Nm do higher downforce cars have? Is it also 25 like indycar? Or a different value. It wasn’t very clear because it seemed like it got cut out
This was fantastic advice! Upgraded from a t300 to a Moza R9 a few months ago and whilst it felt more powerful I was a bit let down by the details. Just tweaked based off of this and was around 0.5 a lap quicker at Sebring in GT4 class
This isn’t how IRacing FFB works with my DD2. No matter what I set my wheelbase to like say 13 nm, auto sets it to 26nm every time making it impossible to drive. It doesn’t recognize what I have fanalab settings at but rather what the wheelbase can do at 100%. I suspect anyone else with a 20 plus nm base will experience this same thing. For me set the wheel force I have in fanalab manually and adjust the strength setting accordingly. That’s it.
This seems to be a dangerous technical problem with your software actually! Try reinstalling it or something but you should be able to limit it for your own safety
I still can’t feel oversteer lightening through the ffb. I have high end wheelbase turned down to 12nm. With no dampening etc in wheelbase or game settings. Anyone have any ideas?
Great video, but i strongly disagree leaving ffb at same force to get used to it and muscle memory stuff. In fps games for the longest time everyone was on muscle memory train and said don’t change your sensitivity because it messes with what you are used to in terms of aiming, but for last few years that has changed to switch sensitivity from time to time for better performance because it increases ones ability to adapt and read the situation better. I don’t see how it’s different for simracing and personally i’ve seen benefit in my racing when i switch ffb from time to time
@@mementomori4972 I’ll repeat it again ….. if you’re not fast then don’t blame equipment. If your hands are broken don’t blame the equipment. NUMBER ONE Loser human mentality is equipment is at fault. Stop the loser talk.
@@Max__apex What are you "repeating again"? "Repeating again" means that you said something already twice. Do you even know what your're talking about?...and how is this even relevant to your initial comment and my response to it? Are you somewhat confused or challenged in another way?
Cara queria muito te conhecer, trocar uma ideia, é possivel isso? Tamo junto irmao, sucesso infinito pra vc cara, vivendo a vida dos meus sonhos. Ganhando grana fazendo oq ama! SE vc um dia tiver tempo, da um alo cara, só queria trocar umas ideias msm, tirar umas duvidas, e fazer amizade, eu n tenho nenhum amigo que se interessa por corrida de forma mais profissional, eh fodz. Enfim To por ae =D
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Hurra! Thank you, man, I 'v been waiting so long for this! Love what u doing for us so much! 👍 It's a pity that because of the fucking politics from our country, it's impossible to buy your book now. 😏
For the last two years, I've always wondered why my ffb feels so dead and has zero detail. This has just transformed my wheel base much appreciated
That’s bad ass. My sim rig shows up on Monday and I have no idea how to set it all up.
@JeLifeCoach it's crazy I now feel like I have a direct drive wheel base, I was about to upgrade from an 8nm to something higher which I will still do but im kinda satisfied with what I have for now. I can actually feel the car it's so strange and is going to take a lot of learning again
thats crazy you didnt do any research in two years of owning the wheel
@tehMaloWalo I agree
@@kieranjames9679tf are you using that’s 8nm and ISNT direct drive?
Awesome! After a year of racing I just realized, because of this video, that I had all my cars set to 50%! Just changed the settings and can now feel SO much more!
Do the pedals next! Great video!
Me watching while playing on controller
Just bump up the vibration on your controller
I was the same bro, i just got this promotion on Amazon and I got a g920 as his recommended in some other video, now I am so into the sim racing world, I hope you can have the same chance , you will love it .
I directly bought a wheel and started sim racing without knowing any basics
And im very bad at it currently.
It's best that you continue on your controller and master the basics and have knowledge as much as you can before getting a wheel
@@SPARTEN007 yeah ive been playing on controller for almost 1 year and ive studied a lot about technique and my pace was actually somewhat good but I know that a controller and a wheel are whole different things so probably it takes some time to get used to even if you already know the basics. I’m buying the t300 somewhere from feb to june
Been playing controller my entire life. (24 years old). Just recently bought a $1600 sim setup and I STILL use controller cause I'm faster lmao. I can feel what the car is doing through specific vibrations. It's not a bad thing to be on controller. It is only a game after all. Just use what you will be more competitive on or just have more fun on. Cause wheels can be a pain in the butt lol.
I've been looking for this answer all over the internet, but no one can explain it more clearly and easily to understand, like Suellio does!!
This is an excellent video. Simple to understand. Having a video that clearly describes what ffb you should be feeling whilst giving a rough approximation of the nm of different categories of cars is really useful
I'm a new (and now consistent) subscriber - I can't believe these videos have less than a million views - these are great introductions to sim racing and the fundamentals of racing in general!! Keep it up!
Wow, I have a Fanatec dd1 and for the longest time I had the base set at 100% Force and would turn down intensity to range between 72% to 75%. Now I see that I should had actually have intensity at 100% and reduce the force in the base for what I would find good. Very interesting and looking forward to try if I can extract more detail from my DD1. I’m speaking about iracing of course.
Im a simple guy. I see Suellio upload. I instantly like
Everyone needs a supporter like you bro
Does that mean I’m a simple guy too?😅
This helped me with my g29. I had my ffb strength too high for my 2.5nm wheel. Lowering the strength brought out the details of the wheel a lot better. Ty
Hello i started watching you just for few days an d let me tell you, you are the best explainer i have seen on youtube. Thank you for your efforts.
I have the same wheel, I had it setup pretty much the same way, I just needed to add more intensity.
Amazing video Suelio! Finally a good explanation about this! If anyone has a CSL DD 8NM share your config down here so we can try different settings inside iracing! 🤘🏼
The background beat at 11:55 is absolutely nuts
This vdeo is the best one I've ever seen about force feedback.
Thank you brother.
This video was just simply lovely
Fantastic level of information - leading the way my man...
Thank you for the video!
Amazing video. Currently I play mainly on GT7 on PSVR2, so not a lot of control on FFB, but the knowledge of how the wheel should feel under understeer and oversteer is gold! I have a Logitech G923 now, so not a lot of force, but looking forward to upgrade it sooner than later
Just upgraded to the Gpro wheel, and I am so happy!
Very good video now i know not to use irffb with bad clipping and maybe settings too😅👍
Great video, as always. Congrats Suellio
What helped me to get a better feel and "light hands", was to turn down the FFB for a few weeks. I steadily increased it back up and have a much better understanding and feeling of the FFB.
Ah man, im using a g29 and even had the FFB set for the Miata wrong, so i was getting only half of the already weak FFB :D It changed everything, its not that my hands weren't light enough, it's just that it didn't give enough feedback even for that, so thanks for the video
Any chance you would ever upload your exact iracing settings between different cars for your Logitech pro wheel?
This is seriously absolutely amazing descriptions though and really helped me understand clipping. I just struggle so much with balancing the dampener, true force, and filter
Thank you, this a great video!
FFB is such a powerful tool. I think I've found out a genius strategy to improve your trailbraking effectively without feeling like you're cheating. Just drive F1 cars with no assists (on assetto corsa for example) for a certain amount of time every day. Because the car has the highest level of downforce, you also get the highest level feeling of the wheel going lighter when you slow down. So when you're trailbraking, the progressive smooth lightness of the wheel sends feedback directly to your foot and without thinking, you smoothen out your line. I have big issues with stairing my inputs on other cars, but never in F1 and I'm starting to feel like the more I develop this muscle memory, the more it becomes independent from the force feedback information. And holy shit is it satisfying to be able to drive an F1 car to the limit, it feels like you're a different person, but all it really is is just listening to the force feedback!
It does make you feel like a different person lol. I've been driving the super formulas in iracing lately an it took a bit of practice to learn that the downforce really helps you go fast thru corners but it's crazy satisfying when you get it right. Its at Watkins Glen right now an you barely have to use the brakes there except for a few turns
Great stuff as always! I've just got my brand-new moza r12 and I have to say that for now, I'm kind of lost in all the settings (dampers, inertia...) so I haven't reach that point where you feel the wheel lighter on understeer... But I'll keep trying haha
My champion! 💥💥
In AC and ACC i set up my FFB to start to clip at T1 of Suzuka on a fast surface.
The steering will feel heavy on most turns but will usually only clip over bumps. G923 with 3nm.
Lmao g29 or g923 have 2nm-2.2. „3nm“? Nah.
Incredible amount of information!! Could you maybe do I video explaining how to adapt the driving style based on the engine placement in the car?
I've met with this issue recently while switching from AMS2 to RaceRoom. I know how the Porsche GT3 feels in AMS2 and the first car I tried in RaceRoom was the said Porsche. While in AMS2 I was always able to control the rotation of the car with the throttle, In R3E I found myself having heaps of understeer in most corners while on power. I was able to adapt on the fly after a few laps but felt like I wasn't extracting the maximum from the car. After thinking about it and looking up online I found out that well it's supposed to be that way (because of the engine placement and the fact that the weight shifts to the rear while on power so fronts just have less grip, it's a trait of the car) and AMS2 just had this bit of handling wrong...
Bro just won a season and turned around and put out a force feed back video. Genuinely a humble person
Wow. Game changer.
This comes just in hand, got my SC2 Pro a couple of days ago.
Hi Suellio, great video as always, are you going to do a quick guide like this for pedals too? Thanks for the content and all the courses.
Awesome video mate. I would always click auto without realising there’s more to it. Need to go back and review my settings
I just tried this and knocked 2 secs off my lap time (yes i am slow) but wow! I can feel the car now! Thanks!
Super Clear ! OMG
Yes sir, thanks! once again
i just bouth a gaming set ,thx you so much for tips bro :D
Wow. By increasing my ffb I was able to go 1.5 seconds faster in the Porsche Cup car. I could definitely sense the grip level better.
Finally someone who likes ffb and doesnt kill there wheelbase. Like daniel he likes such a dead feeling wheel it makes no sense to me. Hes taken realism and forgotte that the wheel needa to pick up on the feelings you would feel in the car the things we cant feel so thw eheel should make up for those.
People who use more ffb and feel they may be slower is because thwy have bad habbits and relied on broken physica throwing rhe car around instead of relying on perfect braking and throttle inputs with wheel adnustments while driving. The car will tell yoy where its at you shouldnt be happy about being fast while forcing the car all over the place and being fast by sliding way more then most and just pushing past breaking physics lol. But i leave my ffb maxed in software and lower the gain in game to keep all of that dynamic range. It feels so so much better in my wheelbases this way.
5:58 - "Always try to manage your weight transfer so that the front tires are always in the peak force feedback resistance" That is incorrect. Peak resistance is always earlier than peak slip angle. While steering wheel is starting to get lighter, there's still more grip in the tires.
Amazing man thanks
Can we have a part 2 to the setup tutorial? I learned a lot from part 1 and would like to understand the rest the car has to offer
iRacing’s linear mode off works like this. It multiplies all forces by 1.6x, so that 0-50% car output maps to 0-80% wheel output. That gives you more detail in that lower half. The problem is you don’t care about detail in that lower half. You care about detail in the upper half. And with linear mode off that means the top half of car output only has the top 20% of your wheel’s range remaining to work with. And to make matters worse, since there is a 1.6x multiplier involved it has to use a dynamic range compressor to make the top half fit into that 20% range. So not only does it use a reduced range, it squishes the signal to fit within that smaller range. Linear mode off is garbage for that reason. You will feel much more detail in the upper half, where it actually matters, if you have linear mode on.
So insightful. Thanks. I have no idea how to set all this up!
What about in other sims like Assetto Corsa that don't have a linear mode checkbox? And what about the "Linear/Peak" setting on the software for Fanatec wheels?
@@DerekMoore82 I only know how iRacing’s linear checkbox works because many years ago I spoke about it with David Tucker, the programmer responsible for FFB, among other things. He explained how it works, and that’s what I’ve shared here. It was originally meant to help with how weak wheels were ~15+ years ago so that you’d have more feeling in the lower range. When we talked him into adding the feature he did so only reluctantly, as he didn’t think it would be worthwhile. But after he did so, many of us thought it was a massive improvement, and so he kept it. He’s actually changed his mind a few times over the years as to whether or not people should use linear mode. He used to feel it was better with it turned off, but many of us were pretty vocal about how much better we thought it felt after he added it at our request. Nowadays, wheels have way too much strength available to even try to push the non-linear mode as a plus, I think. It could help weak wheels feel better down low, but at the expense of the feeling up high. This trade-off no longer seems necessary when we’ve got wheels that are 4x-15x stronger and beyond.
@@ClaytonMacleod Thank you for talking that guy into it. Maybe I'll get iRacing for Christmas and try it out. I was always scared off by the subscription model and having to pay so much for each car and track, especially in this economy.
@@DerekMoore82 Well, I don’t see it as any different than buying a new version every year. It’s got a renewal deal every year for 25% off, and at the same time it is 50% off for new subscriptions. Subscribing for $75/year isn’t any different than buying iRacing 2024 for $75 and then buying iRacing 2025 for $75 next year. Plus, every three months you get a newer, better version when they release the new update after each 12-week season. Having to buy each car and track separately costs you some more money, yes, but it can also save you some money. If all you’re ever going to do is race NASCAR there’s not much point in spending money on all the dirt cars, the rally cars, and the insane number of road cars. Pick any discipline, and if that’s all you’re ever going to do you wouldn’t want to spend money buying all that other content. If that’s what you want to do then iRacing’s business model actually saves you money. You only buy what you want to use.
If they charged one price for everything they’ve released it would be so high that barely anyone would want to pay it. One thing you have to keep in mind is that nobody is simulating everything to the degree that iRacing does. They don’t just have generic car models with different skins and a few variables tweaked. “Make this one a little faster.” Their physics is far above any competitor’s. Right down to the direction the shafts turn in the engine and how that affects a car’s handling. Nobody else simulates as much stuff as they do. And they’re always working on improving how everything is simulated. It’s not perfect. And there’s always ways they can make things better. And they’re always trying to do so. All that stuff costs money.
Laser scanning cars and weighing all the parts costs money. Doing dyno runs costs money. Gathering all the data required to build their cars and then doing so costs money. Laser scanning tracks and building them costs money. I think their prices for a car or a track are a bargain for what you get. And what you get is something that is as close to the real life thing as you can get. All the parts layouts physically match the real car’s layout and behave the same way the real cars do. It’s not just a generic car model tweaked to be a little faster or slower or have a little more or less grip. It behaves the same way the real car does because it is built with the same dimensions and angles and everything. It simulates things very well. And it only keeps getting better.
$75/year for an incredible amount of entertainment and excitement throughout the year is damn cheap, as far as I’m concerned. What’s that? Three movies? I’d rather have iRacing. ;)
Will the auto function overwrite any manual value I set for max force? If not: is there a general value that works well as a middle ground for all cars in iracing? Is there an overview list of cars in iracing and what max force they put out in the sim? Similar to your real life examples, so we have a value to set for each car type.
In addition to this: is irffb recommendable? I heard that it adds some SoP feedback - coming from acc which I think natively has SoP ffb elements, iracing feels dull (I just started iracing yesterday so might not have the best tuned ffb now) but I was thinking about irffb
Appreciate the video , picked up a Moza r9 v2 after enjoying my Logitech g920 . I love the auto system but is it normal for the mx5 to have the same as formula vee ? For some reason it’s giving me the same 14.0 nm . I changed it to 20.9 nm though . Still understanding the pit house but still video helped out a lot and making me a faster driver. I feel it already .
Thank you for another great video! How would you set up Gran Truism 7 on a PS5 with a G923 plugged into it?
Will you do any Rally racing tutorials?
First comment! Thumbs up for your free content
Is 1.23:94s in monza using the sf70 is a good time for a mouse steering player hahaha?
Suellio I love your videos but there is that editing fx that I find very annoying sometimes. When the screen fades to black very quickly, this is distracting. Like @1:27 and @2:14 and @10:27 and @16:25…Not a fan.
As always, thank you for this wonderful content and valuable information.
I see what you mean the rapid color swap from the orange to the white back to the orange is like a little flash-bang going off. I could see why light sensitive people could find that annoying.
Hell thinking about it now if done in quick succession it could cause seizures in some people.
Can you explain why you use 900 vs 1080. I have the same base, I thought iracing adapts soft bump stops for each car. Is there an advantage to go with 900 max?
What would the Nm be of a wrc rally car ? thanks
Howdy, just wondering what track you're on there, the first one? Thanks
I am buying a trak racer tr160 mk4 tonight
What about the supercar. Different beast all together. What would
You recommend
are we going to get content on the lmp car u drove?
What track is this?!
are there his settings for the Logitech Pro somewhere? Thanks!
I currently own a Logitech G29, and it only produces 2.1 Nm of force. 😒 What 30Nm Racing wheels would you recommend?
Question: Is it good to check "linear" EVEN on a gear ot belt driven wheel? Or is that setting only for DD wheels?
what should i do if with 100% intensity and auto ffb strength being too strong to drive, do i lower strength or max ffb?
and what about in assetto games?
So i have a Moza R9 V2 and get clipping in the LMP2, would you be able to point me in the direction to have a great setting that feels normal and without loosing strength.
Ok so I have the Fanatec CS DD..on auto it selects 12nm and 8 nm. In Sports cars it barely ever uses 1/4 of the bar and always stays green.
In the Open Wheel cars it clips bad. So to test I unchecked the auto and changed the 8 to 12, and while it slid the top 12 to the right a bit when I drove there was virtually no clipping…
Not sure if that is correct or not.. Intensity 100% and followed all your other suggestions.
Should I be getting higher signal in the sports cars? ( Should I uncheck auto and move the second slider up? )
And so on.. just curious if anyone can provide a bit more clarity lol. Worried the signal is too weak on Sports and too high on Formula.
Did you get the Logitech RS track wheel yet?
I just got into sim racing I started playing grid legends but I don’t have a wheel because I can’t quite afford one yet can i practice these techniques on controller
When I use the auto function the FFB is way too high even on my 5.5nm base and the steering is way too heavy - are you saying to tune the FFB on the wheelbase software to something more comfortable (if we're using auto function in iRacing)?
I'm confused as I thought if you put the base software FFB strength below 100% you are 'wasting' the performance of your base and you will end up with more clipping?
Hi Suallio Almeida I’ve been thinking to buy the moza r3, do you think it’s worth it for simracing?
Are you saying I should feel the FFB getting lighter if I turn the wheel beyond its optimal angle? Tried it in the Ferrari GT3 at Centripetal but could not feel a difference. I was in 2nd and also tried 3rd gear while keeping a constant throttle input and then turned the wheel way into understeer. I could see the FFB bar fluctuating (all in green so no clipping), but could not feel a difference. I focused on light hands and tried with my left and also right hand only. Tried different levels of force but no difference. I did feel a difference though when releasing and pressing the throttle, so it’s not that I don’t feel any changes at all. But I’ve always been strugling with feeling most of the cars in iRacing. Maybe I need to try different positions, i.e. playing with height, distance and angle of the wheel to find my personal sensitivity window?
Anytime I had bad drive I am realizing that my hands are stiff. Soft hands is second after trail breaking most important thing in sim racing.
Bro, is hard about this linear mode, you always say to set it on, but I've seen some other professional racers saying to shut it off, so idk what to do since I am new into this sim race world
Hi, Suelio what is the live graph telemetry what You are using. On ioverlay i cant See throttle blip due downshift. What is the reason? Because of overlay software?
How much Nm do higher downforce cars have? Is it also 25 like indycar? Or a different value. It wasn’t very clear because it seemed like it got cut out
This was fantastic advice! Upgraded from a t300 to a Moza R9 a few months ago and whilst it felt more powerful I was a bit let down by the details. Just tweaked based off of this and was around 0.5 a lap quicker at Sebring in GT4 class
This isn’t how IRacing FFB works with my DD2. No matter what I set my wheelbase to like say 13 nm, auto sets it to 26nm every time making it impossible to drive. It doesn’t recognize what I have fanalab settings at but rather what the wheelbase can do at 100%. I suspect anyone else with a 20 plus nm base will experience this same thing. For me set the wheel force I have in fanalab manually and adjust the strength setting accordingly. That’s it.
This seems to be a dangerous technical problem with your software actually! Try reinstalling it or something but you should be able to limit it for your own safety
I still can’t feel oversteer lightening through the ffb. I have high end wheelbase turned down to 12nm. With no dampening etc in wheelbase or game settings. Anyone have any ideas?
Não entendi quantos Nm tem nos F1, F2...
Yo i got the g pro wheel how in the hell do you recomrnd it? Falling apart in less than 3 months and makes clicking noise above 5nm.......
if you see streamer use some brands, its because he is sponsored by that brand
Ive been doing all this without knowing what I have been doing.
No matter what I do I still can't feel understeer in iRacing
Anyone knows if there is a way to show the Clipping on Gran Turismo 7 (PS4)? Maybe some app?
I'm using the Logitech G29.
Dude I wait until AC Evo releases 😮💨
Were you just driving a Miata on Laguna Seca?
4sec faster hahaha❤
WOOH
Me watching driving on a G29 hehe
Great video, but i strongly disagree leaving ffb at same force to get used to it and muscle memory stuff. In fps games for the longest time everyone was on muscle memory train and said don’t change your sensitivity because it messes with what you are used to in terms of aiming, but for last few years that has changed to switch sensitivity from time to time for better performance because it increases ones ability to adapt and read the situation better. I don’t see how it’s different for simracing and personally i’ve seen benefit in my racing when i switch ffb from time to time
Bro people are flash now not even a minute
100% correct. Light FFB is better and reactive. 10nm is more then enough 🇵🇸
Thats not exactly true. With a higher force capable wheel, more detail will be availiable while driving even at those lower force levels
he never said that. Some people are biased beyond redemption.
@@vividkarting1936
Plenty of detail at 10-12nm….. you just can’t drive fast enough because you don’t understand driving fast.
@@mementomori4972
I’ll repeat it again ….. if you’re not fast then don’t blame equipment.
If your hands are broken don’t blame the equipment.
NUMBER ONE Loser human mentality is equipment is at fault. Stop the loser talk.
@@Max__apex What are you "repeating again"? "Repeating again" means that you said something already twice. Do you even know what your're talking about?...and how is this even relevant to your initial comment and my response to it? Are you somewhat confused or challenged in another way?
Cara queria muito te conhecer, trocar uma ideia, é possivel isso? Tamo junto irmao, sucesso infinito pra vc cara, vivendo a vida dos meus sonhos. Ganhando grana fazendo oq ama!
SE vc um dia tiver tempo, da um alo cara, só queria trocar umas ideias msm, tirar umas duvidas, e fazer amizade, eu n tenho nenhum amigo que se interessa por corrida de forma mais profissional, eh fodz. Enfim
To por ae =D
This video makes me dizzy when you go around and around 😅😅
FORMULA Ford can`t be 12Nm. It feels very light on Iracing.
i got no wheels im poor
you have to channel your inner steering wheel...
@mementomori4972 my 11 dolar mouse is my wheel
32 seconds 1 like, bro fell off😔
Is this dude like 30 years old but look like he's 13?
@GitGudRacing also has a good video series on Force Feedback (:
Yup this guy is pretty good too