***SEE NOTE BEOW*** ⚙See the Items in video below! 💬Join the Discord: discord.gg/RUJbAj8QPB (comment if link broken) 🤜🤛Wanna do us the ultimate bro/bro'ette move? Send this video to a tacoma buddy! 🚨 Finally on IG! : @teamoildrop Items in this video: (Amazon affiliate links) 3/8" Drive Socket Set - amzn.to/41yyGNP Socket Accessory Set - amzn.to/3tsMRYb Breaker Bar - amzn.to/3vkkHyU Plier Set - amzn.to/3HgVpop Front Rotors - amzn.to/3RYrpDS Front Brake Pads - amzn.to/48e6G4n Jack - amzn.to/48Apvih Jack Stands - amzn.to/41J7ewP Brake Pad Spreader - amzn.to/3RC8BZI 3/8" Torque Wrench - amzn.to/41Bd7Mp Anti-seize - amzn.to/3TVRJ2X PB Blaster - amzn.to/3v7knU7 (These are Amazon affiliate links: Amazon pays the channel a small fee every time you fine people buy through these links) NOTE: I have not ran brake pad shims on this truck as they (for me) caused noise a few years back. Shims are generally recommended otherwise and are part number 04945-0C030.
Thanks, man. These videos are the best when it comes to Gen 3 Tacoma maintenance. They’re the shortest, but most informative. The angles really help, unlike a lot of other videos out there. I had the coolant playing as I did the job, good shit. Also, I get a Gran Turismo 2 vibe from the intros, haha. Nice.
Your videos are king. Just did my front brakes yesterday for the first time on my 3rd gen. Couldn’t have done it without you ! Sending so many thank yous from CO.
You did a great job explaining everything, and not wasting my time by advising that I skip to 4:30 for brakes only. You’ve gained a follower. My first time changing brakes and I’m 34 yo. Usually I pay to get it done. My financial difficulties have led me to do so.
@@rickygarcia958 I do my best to give it to yall real brother. Thanks for the kind words and I’m looking forward to your financial situation to be helped here. Save that money!
I changed out the rotors for the first time along with my break pads. I couldn’t have done it with the help of this video. It saved me quite a bit of money too, thanks for the awesome content!
I changed discs and pads on my ‘13 Taco today. A couple things I’ve learned. The M8 screws/bolts are invaluable. Next time you get a tv mounting kit, save the bolts, since everything is metric. Use a PH#4 screwdriver and a wrench to save yourself a ton of hammering on the old rotor. This is assuming you have OEM rotors. Otherwise, you’re stuck hammering. That’s why the anti-seize is so important with the aftermarket rotors. Now for older trucks like mine, the pins holding the pads in are going to be rusty. It will not be fun with a punch and sledge hammer to beat them out. You may as well replace them and save yourself more headache later. Have a grinder or file to restore the taper on the pins, and remove the rust off the rest of the pin. (Edit: also, if you have trouble removing the pins, getting them backed out about a half inch, then clamp on the end with a pair of vise-grip pliers and use a small file to remove rust off the pins as you work them out.) Once the caliper is free, file the top and bottom where the pads go. Just remove the bulk of the rust. No need to go back to bare metal. Have a cheater bar handy for the bolts holding the calipers on. This will immediately become evident as to why. Best of luck to everyone.
You always produce such good videos, I really enjoy them. Good to know to take the brake fluid cap off, I didn' do that the last time I did mine, own. Good reminder for next time.
Thanks for the video. Just so y’all know if you’re replacing oem pads they will have shims on them to reduce sound. I was able to clean them up and reuse them on my replacement oem pads. Saved about $30 doing that.
Did you ever crack the brake reservoir cap, or bleed any fluid? I've never had to do this on any other vehicles but you know how the Tacoma community is. 3,000 different ways to do something. Couldn't find any concrete information about this online, however he does seem to crack the reservoir open during the process.
Before the pads are removed, the pistons are depressed. This displaces the fluid from the calipers into the system and to the reservoir. If you have added fluid, as your brakes wore, the reservoir level will rise. The air in the reservoir will be slightly pressurized from this action. Removing or cracking the reservoir cap allows the air to easily escape. Greg the Editor
@@usmc2msu213 it was inevitable. I’ve only had to do them twice across 5 Tacomas I’ve owned. They just last FOREVER. I checked them at 85k and they still might as well have been new at that time. But for the sake of a tutorial wrenches shall turn!
I love your stuff Tyler. And I hate to nitpick but, lug nuts on my 3rd gen are 21mm. A 22 mm socket works with a bunch of slop and setting torque with slop can cause variations.
Thanks James! And I promise, I love the call outs. It keeps the channel focused. I will say that this is actually a commonly discussed topic between 21 and 22mm. Some blame manufacture, some blame swell, some just can't explain it. I just know that 22 fits and 21 doesn't. Heck, some guys even buy a 21.5mm socket for this exact reason. Heres a good writeup on it: www.tacomaworld.com/threads/lug-nut-mystery-sizes.551055/ I definitely should discuss this at some point!
Thanks for another great video! I'm guessing your rotors were warped? Also, I'm so glad you didn't use drilled and slotted rotors with racing pads like I see so many people doing. What brand of pads and rotors did you go with?
They just began to develop the lip on the outer rim after 95k. I’m a very gentle driver so they lasted. I went with OEM pads and carquest (highly reviewed) rotors. I linked Bosch rotors but grabbed the CQs since they were quick and local. And RIGHT? Guys slapping gimmicky slotted rotors and special pads on a Tacoma… hey, it’s their wallet!
Is this procedure the same for the TRD OR trim as well? I watched your other video about brake fluid, and since you mentioned the system is different, wanted to make sure. Thanks for all of your amazing videos!
I used the zip tie to keep the caliper up - but I had it so that it was zipped before I took it off the rotor, with just enough play to get it off. That held it in place nicely and I didn't cut it off until I had reinstalled the caliper - safe, safe, safe. Do NOT want to damage that brake line.
Nice video with good timing. I am due brakes in about 5K miles and I have already bought OEM pads and rotors. I assume you have not done any videos in a while as you were expecting a child. Hopefully all went well with that!
I planned to drop this video knowing your mileage Donald 😆 All went well and Emerson is a healthy and handsome little guy! Good luck and happy maintaining.
Hey, way late to the party but planning to my brakes/ rotors this weekend. Did you do any kind of break-in process after replacements were in? Your video ends with you driving away like normal saying they will be mushy, do you recommend a couple laps around the neighborhood to get pressure back up?
Welcome! Not so much a break in process, the pads will stop you very quick… more of a “just note, the pedal can be squishy for a few pumps”. Otherwise drive on!
Two questions: 1. Do you need to grease the pins at the top and bottom of the caliper? 2. When I pulled out my old brakes, there were stainless shims on the outside of each pad, and noticed yours didn’t have it. I had a hard time getting the shins back in with the new pads. Are they necessary?
1. Best practice is to grease them, yes 2. Some aftermarket pads don’t fit with OEM shims super well, they aren’t “necessary” but prevent squeaking with the OEM pads. If you don’t have any squeaking with your new brakes, then don’t worry about the shims. -Austin
hey Tyler, I'm having a really hard time getting the caliper back on. It seems like the thread won't take. Also, when I threw the rotor on, it doesnt sit flush (the bottom lags off). Is this normal until the wheels back on? Thanks for the videos and the help
If you're worried about the rotor sitting on there crooked, you can always thread on a lug nut or two to push the rotor into place. I assume you compressed the pistons enough? That could cause your threads to be too far away if the pads are moving the caliper too far inward. They unfortunately are fine thread bolts so they really want to be straight on, maybe try using a flathead to carefully make sure the caliper holes and the spindle holes are completely lined up. -Austin
Thanks for the words! Ya know, BOSCH is often my favorite but these are actually advanced auto parts rotors due to reviews and quick availability (needed them day of). Something I like to remember also is Toyota does not make any of these parts. They are all rebranded. I’ll do a video on it one day.
Just changed my '17 pads n rotors but forgot to grease the rear of the pads for the 1st time (Didn't come with grease). What is the negative effect of not greasing them?
@@chrisheffner3024 standard grey/silver anti-seize has a high temp threshold of I want to say 1200 degrees. Google fact check that. It’s been used many times in a pinch in lieu of pad grease. Is that the right answer… up to you. Will it hurt your truck, not at all.
@@teamoildrop SO, bigger problem. Rotors are dissolving, 49500 miles. Wish I could show. Going to dealer tomorrow. 2021 SR 2.7. Anyone else with this issue?
Hello ,,,,,,,The pads in your link seem to come with a Shime back plate ,, but it looks like the ones you installed didn't use a plate are they the same pads as Am@zon link ? Thank you
Tyler skipped the backing plate when installing these, but you are welcome to install them with the included plates. He mentions he’s had some squeaking issues with using these backing plates so he skipped them for this install! -Austin
90 mins start to finish, used the mid-power torque gun on most things to save myself wrench time. Took the caliper kit back since using old pads and flat head screwdriver was easy enough.
Correct me if I’m wrong but when u removed the old brake pads the tooth on the inside pad was at the outside bottom left. Then was installed inside top left s
Does the pad tooth have to be pointed up on the inside of the rotor? I see the one you took out, the tooth was on the bottom and now the new one is on top.
No grease on the slide pins ? I pull my pins and grease them once a year or so even if I’m not changing pads yet . Had one hang up years ago and it wore one pad on a sharp angle and ruined the rotor prematurely.
A great tip. I look at them and replace the hardware kit every few years. For me, it's a good 30k service item. Rock Auto and other retainers have these kits for just a few bucks Greg the Editor
Well tranny drain&fill went great. Can't say the same for front brakes. Unfortunetly my inner pistons didn't want to retract.Got outer retracted&pad out but I put it back&just replaced the pins&clips and will have to tackle on my next weekend when I have 2 full days off and a week of tip hunting. Oh well,can't always be sunshine&rainbows but DAMMIT I will win💪
@@unmovable1 a good move, the extra leverage is great to have. The other option is having a piece of pipe or a jack handle to lengthen the leverage on your current one, but 15” is kinda short anyway
Thanks! Those rotors were actually from advanced auto parts if I recall correctly. Could have been oreillys…. Which ever was better reviewed. The pads are oem which I believe I found on a dealerships site a while back. I trust Bosch just as much but your call! Those links are in the description and comments.
So I noticed in your video, the original pads had shims on them, but when you reinstalled the new ones, there was no shims on the backside of the pads. Was this a misstep or intentional in your video???
@@ryank.7920 if I recall correctly those were Bosch coming out with the fixed shims on them. I switched to OEM without shims (not recommended) as for some very minute odd reason (maybe bad shims) OEM pad shims combo had squealed on me previously. Ignore that part of the video and shim as normal. I think I covered this in the notes section of the comments as well for you eagle eyed viewers.
I like a kit that can be found on Rock Auto. It contains, four pins, four clips and two pad retainer springs. Dynamic Friction 34076057, $2.36 www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=11912633&cc=3445493&pt=1736&jsn=495
You’re not wrong! They had plenty of life left even for 35k on them . They met an early demise due to the rotor change. I just couldn’t put old pads on a new rotor. Wait till I change the rear brakes for us, that’s gonna really hurt my soul. Those last longer than time.
@teamoildrop might be a dumb question but why can't we put old pads on the new rotors? Also something that came to my attention is a coolant leak that I cannot find on my 2019 digging on tacoma wold leads me to believe its this clloatn crossover pipe. Any ideas or info? Wish me luck getting my dealer to even look at it.
@@yzrippin honestly you could run old pads. However, being a cheap part, I can’t justify it. If I’m going to do the work I ought as well put some new pads in. Coolant leak, have you done any work recently or did it just appear? Very tough to diagnose from here but I recommend finding a highly reviewed shop over dealership 10/10 times.
@teamoildrop no work recently. At 50k, i prepared the truck for a vacation and noticed almost no coolant in the resivour and when i poped the radiator cap it was low. Radiator Took a few gulps to fill (i squeezed hoses for bubbles and fulled the resivour) powersteering was also at min so filled it as you showed us. Checked steering link boods they have the tell tale wet seepage spots. No drips under truck no smell of coolant or powersteering/tranny. My main concern is this mystery coolant leak. No signs ie pink marks like when my corolla water pump went. Hoping its a lose conection or to find its the pipe before i hit 60k and lose powertrain warranty
@@yzrippin hmmm, okay glad to hear you’re under warranty still. Don’t let the dealership gimmick you into other things you can easily DIY. Curious to know what’s going on myself.
My guide pins didn't have cotter pins holding them in. just one long spring clip. And the new "W" clip didn't quite fit. so I had to reuse the old W clip but I was able to use the new cotter pins. So just be careful taking those out not to bend them.
I should add that I have a stock 2006 Tacoma Prerunner with a 4 cyl engine. The image in this video either makes the spreader smaller or the brake assembly bigger. I wound up using a flat bar and screwdriver and it was fine but you kind of wind up chasing your tail because when you push one those "round thingy's" (LOL), another one pops out a bit. Eventually got it done. Thanks for the video.
Yes, both of the pistons need to be depressed at the same time. They share a common fluid port. By depressing only one, it simply transfers the fluid from one piston cylinder to the other Greg the Editor
You know, I should have annotated that in the video and or the notes actually. That’s a my oops. I actually don’t run shims on this truck, have not for 60k miles and two sets of pads. I had some shims give me noise and problems actually and ditched them. I appreciate how focused you are! I’m going to update the notes! Thanks
So there's no pins to grease on these calipers? Ever? Or is there a more in depth caliper maintenance to do seperate from a basic pad&rotor replacement?
***SEE NOTE BEOW***
⚙See the Items in video below!
💬Join the Discord: discord.gg/RUJbAj8QPB (comment if link broken)
🤜🤛Wanna do us the ultimate bro/bro'ette move? Send this video to a tacoma buddy!
🚨 Finally on IG! : @teamoildrop
Items in this video: (Amazon affiliate links)
3/8" Drive Socket Set - amzn.to/41yyGNP
Socket Accessory Set - amzn.to/3tsMRYb
Breaker Bar - amzn.to/3vkkHyU
Plier Set - amzn.to/3HgVpop
Front Rotors - amzn.to/3RYrpDS
Front Brake Pads - amzn.to/48e6G4n
Jack - amzn.to/48Apvih
Jack Stands - amzn.to/41J7ewP
Brake Pad Spreader - amzn.to/3RC8BZI
3/8" Torque Wrench - amzn.to/41Bd7Mp
Anti-seize - amzn.to/3TVRJ2X
PB Blaster - amzn.to/3v7knU7
(These are Amazon affiliate links: Amazon pays the channel a small fee every time you fine people buy through these links)
NOTE: I have not ran brake pad shims on this truck as they (for me) caused noise a few years back. Shims are generally recommended otherwise and are part number 04945-0C030.
Great camera work. No shaking. Minimal hands in the way. Clear vocals. No mumbling. Way better than most YT videos.
Music to my ears! Thank you! 🍻
Yeah but the Mike Tyson’s Knockout music kinda sucks
Thanks, man. These videos are the best when it comes to Gen 3 Tacoma maintenance. They’re the shortest, but most informative. The angles really help, unlike a lot of other videos out there. I had the coolant playing as I did the job, good shit. Also, I get a Gran Turismo 2 vibe from the intros, haha. Nice.
Thanks brother! And yeah, I try to keep it spicy in the editing chair. Keeps me awake and entertained as well!
Your videos are king. Just did my front brakes yesterday for the first time on my 3rd gen. Couldn’t have done it without you ! Sending so many thank yous from CO.
@@FostyFreezy 🍻 😌 thanks brother!
Wake up boys, we're changing brake and rotors this weekend.
🔧 letsss go 🌅
Almost hilariously my RockAuto order came in last Friday with my new brake pads for my taco
Concise, clear, easy to follow - nothing missed. This is on the do-list on the fridge. Looks like it will be pretty easy. Thanks!
Love to hear it! Happy maintaining up there in WY.
You did a great job explaining everything, and not wasting my time by advising that I skip to 4:30 for brakes only. You’ve gained a follower. My first time changing brakes and I’m 34 yo. Usually I pay to get it done. My financial difficulties have led me to do so.
@@rickygarcia958 I do my best to give it to yall real brother. Thanks for the kind words and I’m looking forward to your financial situation to be helped here. Save that money!
direct, to the point, and good music to boot. 10/10 video my man
@@dootxdoot1943 thanks brother! 🍻
These are the best videos on youtube for Tacoma maintenance.
Love to hear it. I’ll get y’all rear brakes soon enough.
Best tutorial ever, I'm gonna have my wife do my brakes this weekend!😅
Love it! 🍻 Enjoy the channel brother
Thanks man you gave me the courage to take on the maintenance my truck requires
You’re welcome brother! Happy maintaining
Awesome! Now I have a library of videos to watch when I finally purchase my Tacoma. Clear and informative instructions shared in your videos.
And they will keep coming!
I changed out the rotors for the first time along with my break pads. I couldn’t have done it with the help of this video. It saved me quite a bit of money too, thanks for the awesome content!
@@JaimeRodriguez-q7b happy to help! 🍻
I changed discs and pads on my ‘13 Taco today. A couple things I’ve learned.
The M8 screws/bolts are invaluable. Next time you get a tv mounting kit, save the bolts, since everything is metric. Use a PH#4 screwdriver and a wrench to save yourself a ton of hammering on the old rotor. This is assuming you have OEM rotors. Otherwise, you’re stuck hammering. That’s why the anti-seize is so important with the aftermarket rotors.
Now for older trucks like mine, the pins holding the pads in are going to be rusty. It will not be fun with a punch and sledge hammer to beat them out. You may as well replace them and save yourself more headache later. Have a grinder or file to restore the taper on the pins, and remove the rust off the rest of the pin. (Edit: also, if you have trouble removing the pins, getting them backed out about a half inch, then clamp on the end with a pair of vise-grip pliers and use a small file to remove rust off the pins as you work them out.)
Once the caliper is free, file the top and bottom where the pads go. Just remove the bulk of the rust. No need to go back to bare metal.
Have a cheater bar handy for the bolts holding the calipers on. This will immediately become evident as to why.
Best of luck to everyone.
Excellent tips, thanks! Especially for those with older models/living in the rust belt. Glad you got it all taken care of!
-Austin
@@teamoildrop definitely. I’m in KY, but age and the reliability of Toyota parts meant that the brakes lasted nearly 160k.
Thank you so much for these tutorials you saved me so much money and love working on my truck and car. Got a new job this weekend
Keep on killin it brother!
Had 40 minutes to swap my pads… did it in 30 with this video. Team oil drop for the win again!
@@phillipjarvis2109 🍻 😎
You always produce such good videos, I really enjoy them. Good to know to take the brake fluid cap off, I didn' do that the last time I did mine, own. Good reminder for next time.
It’s comments like this that keep ‘em coming! Thanks and happy maintaining
“Mighty hands” indeed! Great stuff TOD.🤛
I had a feeling YOU would catch that reference. Thanks!
Thanks for the video.
Just so y’all know if you’re replacing oem pads they will have shims on them to reduce sound. I was able to clean them up and reuse them on my replacement oem pads. Saved about $30 doing that.
Did you ever crack the brake reservoir cap, or bleed any fluid? I've never had to do this on any other vehicles but you know how the Tacoma community is. 3,000 different ways to do something.
Couldn't find any concrete information about this online, however he does seem to crack the reservoir open during the process.
It's always nice to hear of a tip to save a few dollars.
Thanks
Greg the Editor
Before the pads are removed, the pistons are depressed. This displaces the fluid from the calipers into the system and to the reservoir. If you have added fluid, as your brakes wore, the reservoir level will rise. The air in the reservoir will be slightly pressurized from this action. Removing or cracking the reservoir cap allows the air to easily escape.
Greg the Editor
The best DIY brake job video!
Thanks! Rear brakes next! Those are not so fun, but not so bad either.
@@teamoildrop I was hoping you’d cover those! The current videos SUCK.
@@usmc2msu213 it was inevitable. I’ve only had to do them twice across 5 Tacomas I’ve owned. They just last FOREVER. I checked them at 85k and they still might as well have been new at that time. But for the sake of a tutorial wrenches shall turn!
Nice video bro made it look easy and im about to change the rear drum brakes in October hopefully you have the video by then lol
Thanks
Great video! I've enjoyed all your tacoma maintenance videos! Thank you!
Thank you!
I love your stuff Tyler. And I hate to nitpick but, lug nuts on my 3rd gen are 21mm. A 22 mm socket works with a bunch of slop and setting torque with slop can cause variations.
Thanks James! And I promise, I love the call outs. It keeps the channel focused. I will say that this is actually a commonly discussed topic between 21 and 22mm. Some blame manufacture, some blame swell, some just can't explain it. I just know that 22 fits and 21 doesn't. Heck, some guys even buy a 21.5mm socket for this exact reason. Heres a good writeup on it: www.tacomaworld.com/threads/lug-nut-mystery-sizes.551055/
I definitely should discuss this at some point!
Appreciate the thoroughness my guy! Thank you.
My pleasure! 🍻
Thanks for another great video! I'm guessing your rotors were warped? Also, I'm so glad you didn't use drilled and slotted rotors with racing pads like I see so many people doing. What brand of pads and rotors did you go with?
They just began to develop the lip on the outer rim after 95k. I’m a very gentle driver so they lasted. I went with OEM pads and carquest (highly reviewed) rotors. I linked Bosch rotors but grabbed the CQs since they were quick and local. And RIGHT? Guys slapping gimmicky slotted rotors and special pads on a Tacoma… hey, it’s their wallet!
@@teamoildrop Those Bosch rotors do not come with the hole to thread in a bolt for rotor removal. I wouldn't recommend for that alone
@@robertgriffin2347 I see what you’re saying, but a light coat of anti-seize will prevent ever needing those holes
Is this procedure the same for the TRD OR trim as well? I watched your other video about brake fluid, and since you mentioned the system is different, wanted to make sure. Thanks for all of your amazing videos!
@@radialmodule it is! It’s brake fluid that becomes tricky.
I used the zip tie to keep the caliper up - but I had it so that it was zipped before I took it off the rotor, with just enough play to get it off. That held it in place nicely and I didn't cut it off until I had reinstalled the caliper - safe, safe, safe. Do NOT want to damage that brake line.
@@Gregorovich512 that’s a pro move 😎
Finally getting to mine this weekend, having a shop resurface my rotors though, appreciate y’all!
Happy to help! Best of luck, you got this.
-Austin
Nice video with good timing. I am due brakes in about 5K miles and I have already bought OEM pads and rotors. I assume you have not done any videos in a while as you were expecting a child. Hopefully all went well with that!
I planned to drop this video knowing your mileage Donald 😆 All went well and Emerson is a healthy and handsome little guy! Good luck and happy maintaining.
Hey, way late to the party but planning to my brakes/ rotors this weekend. Did you do any kind of break-in process after replacements were in? Your video ends with you driving away like normal saying they will be mushy, do you recommend a couple laps around the neighborhood to get pressure back up?
Welcome! Not so much a break in process, the pads will stop you very quick… more of a “just note, the pedal can be squishy for a few pumps”. Otherwise drive on!
No need to mess with brake fluid?
Zero need! However I’ll have a brake fluid refresh video soon
On reassembly, did you "snug" the brake line bracket back or turque to a specified ftlb?
just a good snug.
Snug is good as stated below. The manual calls for 51 inch pounds or 4.25 lbs ft. You can get to that with a nut driver.
Thanks for the vid. I would suggest cleaning up the surface under the rotor to prevent uneven surface and runout.
That's a great tip,......will work on adding a comment
Greg the Editor
Two questions:
1. Do you need to grease the pins at the top and bottom of the caliper?
2. When I pulled out my old brakes, there were stainless shims on the outside of each pad, and noticed yours didn’t have it. I had a hard time getting the shins back in with the new pads. Are they necessary?
1. Best practice is to grease them, yes
2. Some aftermarket pads don’t fit with OEM shims super well, they aren’t “necessary” but prevent squeaking with the OEM pads. If you don’t have any squeaking with your new brakes, then don’t worry about the shims.
-Austin
hey Tyler, I'm having a really hard time getting the caliper back on. It seems like the thread won't take. Also, when I threw the rotor on, it doesnt sit flush (the bottom lags off). Is this normal until the wheels back on? Thanks for the videos and the help
If you're worried about the rotor sitting on there crooked, you can always thread on a lug nut or two to push the rotor into place. I assume you compressed the pistons enough? That could cause your threads to be too far away if the pads are moving the caliper too far inward. They unfortunately are fine thread bolts so they really want to be straight on, maybe try using a flathead to carefully make sure the caliper holes and the spindle holes are completely lined up.
-Austin
Do you recommend OEM Toyota pads or the Bosch pads in the link? Thanks again for another great video 👍
Thanks for the words! Ya know, BOSCH is often my favorite but these are actually advanced auto parts rotors due to reviews and quick availability (needed them day of). Something I like to remember also is Toyota does not make any of these parts. They are all rebranded. I’ll do a video on it one day.
As for pads, these are OEM because I had them, but I wouldn’t hesitate for one second with Bosch, your call!
OUR GUY™️
😂 🍻
Just changed my '17 pads n rotors but forgot to grease the rear of the pads for the 1st time (Didn't come with grease). What is the negative effect of not greasing them?
You have an increased change of a slight bit of pad noise,
Greg the Editor
@@teamoildrop appreciate the info my friend
Should/Can i use Anti-Seize on pins and shims? OEM pads didn't come with grease.
@@chrisheffner3024 standard grey/silver anti-seize has a high temp threshold of I want to say 1200 degrees. Google fact check that. It’s been used many times in a pinch in lieu of pad grease. Is that the right answer… up to you. Will it hurt your truck, not at all.
Ok thanks. I have acquired nickel base 2400°F. Figured that would be good.
@@chrisheffner3024 have at it, just bear in mind that silicon based brake grease is the choice application here.
@@teamoildrop SO, bigger problem. Rotors are dissolving, 49500 miles. Wish I could show. Going to dealer tomorrow. 2021 SR 2.7. Anyone else with this issue?
@@chrisheffner3024 define dissolving…. 👀
Excellent, thanks
My pleasure!
Hello ,,,,,,,The pads in your link seem to come with a Shime back plate ,, but it looks like the ones you installed didn't use a plate are they the same pads as Am@zon link ?
Thank you
Tyler skipped the backing plate when installing these, but you are welcome to install them with the included plates. He mentions he’s had some squeaking issues with using these backing plates so he skipped them for this install!
-Austin
@@teamoildrop Cool ,,,,, thanks for the quick reply
The front brake pads of BOSch on Amazon is a good fit like the Toyota pads ?
Yes, we are a fan of OEM or Bosch pads
Greg the Editor
Nice! Now the question is, will you attempt the oh-so-fun Tacoma drum breaks?
Parts arrive today! It’s such an odd job compared to other maintenance but not all that bad. Video to follow!
80 miles shy of 100k, time to get this knocked out today. Lets put a comment here and see how long it takes me this afternoon....
90 mins start to finish, used the mid-power torque gun on most things to save myself wrench time. Took the caliper kit back since using old pads and flat head screwdriver was easy enough.
Correct me if I’m wrong but when u removed the old brake pads the tooth on the inside pad was at the outside bottom left. Then was installed inside top left s
You have the eyes of a hawk! The reason behind this mystery… pads that came out were not OEM… shame I know 😔 😂
Does the pad tooth have to be pointed up on the inside of the rotor? I see the one you took out, the tooth was on the bottom and now the new one is on top.
Can you explain "pad tooth"?
Thanks
Greg
Sorry, the indicator when the pad gets low
@@j24vp83 if recall the old pads were Bosch brand
To the point and detailed. Thanks. Why not clean the calipers?
no reason not to! Thanks brother 🍻
Great video man !!! 💯
Thank you brother! 🍻
No grease on the slide pins ?
I pull my pins and grease them once a year or so even if I’m not changing pads yet . Had one hang up years ago and it wore one pad on a sharp angle and ruined the rotor prematurely.
A great tip. I look at them and replace the hardware kit every few years. For me, it's a good 30k service item. Rock Auto and other retainers have these kits for just a few bucks
Greg the Editor
Well tranny drain&fill went great. Can't say the same for front brakes. Unfortunetly my inner pistons didn't want to retract.Got outer retracted&pad out but I put it back&just replaced the pins&clips and will have to tackle on my next weekend when I have 2 full days off and a week of tip hunting. Oh well,can't always be sunshine&rainbows but DAMMIT I will win💪
There’s a few times off camera I run into hiccups. It gets us all!
The joys of owning a pre-owned vehicle but as you get thru each thing at least you know where you stand next time around.
@@scarygary3569 exactly, DIY gets it right, teaches us things, and prepares us for next time
What size breaker bar did you use?
@@unmovable1 when needed I pull out a 1/2 inch drive 24” bar
@@teamoildrop now that you’ve mentioned it I’m going to return the 1/2 inch drive 15” bar and get the 24” thanks!
@@unmovable1 a good move, the extra leverage is great to have. The other option is having a piece of pipe or a jack handle to lengthen the leverage on your current one, but 15” is kinda short anyway
Fantastic! Do you have an Amazon (or other) link to the pads/rotors you use?
Thanks! Those rotors were actually from advanced auto parts if I recall correctly. Could have been oreillys…. Which ever was better reviewed. The pads are oem which I believe I found on a dealerships site a while back. I trust Bosch just as much but your call! Those links are in the description and comments.
What about shims? Aren't you supposed to also get the Toyota shim kit when changing out the pads?
@@GreatSeany morning! Check notes
Just curious as to why you got the severe duty instead of the quiet cast?
Oh,.......now that's a great idea
Greg the Editor
Did you put anything on the caliper mounting bolts like loctite or antisieze?
@@MrBmansell IIRC I do not believe I did.
The factory installs with a small amount of blue thread compound.
Greg
Appreciate your detailed video
@@TheJoshwaugh 🍻 😌
How do I know when to change my calipers?
Do you have any pulling to either side when braking or uneven pad wear? Leaks? If not then don’t bother.
@@teamoildropI don’t believe so but i know what to look for now. Thank you for the quick response, only channel I come to for anything on my truck
@@spacejam7073 🍻 thanks for being part of team!
So I noticed in your video, the original pads had shims on them, but when you reinstalled the new ones, there was no shims on the backside of the pads. Was this a misstep or intentional in your video???
@@ryank.7920 if I recall correctly those were Bosch coming out with the fixed shims on them. I switched to OEM without shims (not recommended) as for some very minute odd reason (maybe bad shims) OEM pad shims combo had squealed on me previously.
Ignore that part of the video and shim as normal. I think I covered this in the notes section of the comments as well for you eagle eyed viewers.
Would it matter if I get it from Amazon that you showed on this video or o’reilys/ auto zone or Toyota dealership
No,.....parts are parts. We all have our preferred parts suppliers.
Greg the Editor
Is there a part number associated with the new brake hardware kit?
I like a kit that can be found on Rock Auto.
It contains, four pins, four clips and two pad retainer springs.
Dynamic Friction 34076057, $2.36
www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=11912633&cc=3445493&pt=1736&jsn=495
Old ones looked new?
You’re not wrong! They had plenty of life left even for 35k on them . They met an early demise due to the rotor change. I just couldn’t put old pads on a new rotor. Wait till I change the rear brakes for us, that’s gonna really hurt my soul. Those last longer than time.
@teamoildrop might be a dumb question but why can't we put old pads on the new rotors? Also something that came to my attention is a coolant leak that I cannot find on my 2019 digging on tacoma wold leads me to believe its this clloatn crossover pipe. Any ideas or info? Wish me luck getting my dealer to even look at it.
@@yzrippin honestly you could run old pads. However, being a cheap part, I can’t justify it. If I’m going to do the work I ought as well put some new pads in.
Coolant leak, have you done any work recently or did it just appear? Very tough to diagnose from here but I recommend finding a highly reviewed shop over dealership 10/10 times.
@teamoildrop no work recently. At 50k, i prepared the truck for a vacation and noticed almost no coolant in the resivour and when i poped the radiator cap it was low. Radiator Took a few gulps to fill (i squeezed hoses for bubbles and fulled the resivour) powersteering was also at min so filled it as you showed us. Checked steering link boods they have the tell tale wet seepage spots. No drips under truck no smell of coolant or powersteering/tranny. My main concern is this mystery coolant leak. No signs ie pink marks like when my corolla water pump went. Hoping its a lose conection or to find its the pipe before i hit 60k and lose powertrain warranty
@@yzrippin hmmm, okay glad to hear you’re under warranty still. Don’t let the dealership gimmick you into other things you can easily DIY. Curious to know what’s going on myself.
Were would I find that tool to spread the pads , that is the cat's pajamas.
Ha! Amazon/most auto parts stores. They are fairly universal.
Do you put anti seize on the pins?
You can, but not required! Can't hurt to put a tiny dab of caliper grease or antiseize on them if you're worried about it.
-Austin
How reckless is it to put my wheels back on withOUT a torque wrench? I don't have one yet ...
Get em good and tight! Funny you mention, we are giving away a Dewalt wrench now in the latest video 👀
Grest video. Felt like I was watching a memtos commercial or sn episode of Miami Vice
😂 🍻
Why did you not install the shims?
@@mon0railbredpig good eye. If ya check the notes in the pinned comment you’ll see the issues they gave me.
My guide pins didn't have cotter pins holding them in. just one long spring clip. And the new "W" clip didn't quite fit. so I had to reuse the old W clip but I was able to use the new cotter pins. So just be careful taking those out not to bend them.
What year truck are you working with?
Greg
@@teamoildrop 2021 TRD Sport
subbed
@@tomwalker9971 welcome to the team Tom 🍻
Are you sure the lug nuts are not 21mm socket?
You’re correct, OEM lugs are a 21mm.
-Austin
@teamoildrop , 👍. Otherwise excellent video. Thank you for the effort and the patience!
@@axios76 youre going to find that they actually differ and fluctuate between 21 and 22… check out a google search of “21 or 22mm Tacoma lugs”
All the parts in this video are from Amazon? Or from Toyota dealership.
OEM parts on Amazon are very hit or miss so I went with Bosch, the next best thing
this is da beeeeest
Thank you!!
-Austin
I couldn’t get the spreader between the pads and rotor. I was down to just below 2 mm.
I should add that I have a stock 2006 Tacoma Prerunner with a 4 cyl engine. The image in this video either makes the spreader smaller or the brake assembly bigger. I wound up using a flat bar and screwdriver and it was fine but you kind of wind up chasing your tail because when you push one those "round thingy's" (LOL), another one pops out a bit. Eventually got it done. Thanks for the video.
Yes, both of the pistons need to be depressed at the same time. They share a common fluid port. By depressing only one, it simply transfers the fluid from one piston cylinder to the other
Greg the Editor
With due all respect sir, you forgot to reinstall the OEM metal shims that go on the back of the brake pad.
You know, I should have annotated that in the video and or the notes actually. That’s a my oops. I actually don’t run shims on this truck, have not for 60k miles and two sets of pads. I had some shims give me noise and problems actually and ditched them. I appreciate how focused you are! I’m going to update the notes! Thanks
So there's no pins to grease on these calipers? Ever? Or is there a more in depth caliper maintenance to do seperate from a basic pad&rotor replacement?
The caliper has two bolts. It doesn't have the pins as it is stationary and doesn't move as it is a four piston design.
Greg the Editor
@@teamoildropI like it,ty.
great Video. but next time remove the music, we would like to hear all your instructions clearly. thank you so much. :)
@@charliesmith5777 thanks! What was the part where the audio didn’t come through clearly?
Already figured I'd need pads guess I might as well do the rotors at the same time...
Can’t go wrong with that logic 🍻
I kid you not, my torque wrench doesn’t go to God’s number. It literally goes to 82.
That's funny! I guess you'll have to settle for 1 less ft lb until you get a new one.
-Austin
@@teamoildrop I just gave it a little extra elbow grease after it clicked and called it good haha
Clean that oil off your new rotors
These came nearly dry actually unlike some soaked ones I’ve seen in the past. Really nothing to wipe.
Nice tunes. Cocaine and brakes.
🍻