I can not thank you enough for this. All my tractors leak. I have located and replaced these as an assembly as I could get them apart. They are very expensive and sometimes hard to find originals. I especially like that you provided links as that way we know we are getting the right type of O-ring. I am really looking forward to doing this on all my couplers!
You are more than welcome Ben! Same on my end, they always used to leak, but not anymore! That is right, they get expensive when you add up additional tractors!! I tried to find single parts online for sale, but I was not lucky enough. The assortments I listed will cover the rebuild for these couplers, but you will also have enough for ones in the future and bigger sizes as well. I will always try and find the correct links before I post a video from now on. I hope you have success on your rebuilds! Best regards
@@WorkshopRebuild Thank you for responding. A quick question: When looking at the face of the created tool, I am assuming as we go around the OD the three lugs you created are centered on 120 degrees around the circle. But what is the width of each lug? I need to get busy and make mine.
@@benkanobe7500 Great question! That is correct, each "tab" on the custom tool is 120 degrees offset. I just measured it up and if you make each tab 0.250" (1/4") that will fit, or if you measure by the cutouts, mine measure to be 0.156" (5/32"). While I'm already giving you measurements, you can make each cutout 1/4" deep. I hope that helps you out with your custom tool! Best regards
Thanks man. Now I know how these things break down and it's easy to identify that mine are leaking due to the o-rings. I'll pop in some new ones and should be leak free. The check ball would only need replacing since it's leaking when the coupler is apart., which is not my issue. This will save me a lot of money replacing the whole unit. Liked and subscribed.
Hi Robert, thanks for tuning in and watching this video to understand how you can repair your own 1/4" hydraulic couplers! That is correct, once coupled with the male fitting the only part that seals your assembly is the o-ring and the small bearing balls allow both parts to stay connected. You can grab yourself a couple o-rings for future purposes as they are not necessarily expensive. This should save you money over time and you will not have to buy complete couplers. Thank you for your support, it's much appreciated! Regards Andreas
Thank you very much for your kind words and I hope you will be able to repair some of your hydraulic couplers in the near future, if needed. Regards -Andreas
I appreciate your kind words! I'm glad I was able to get this out there to many viewers that are interested in fixing their own hydraulic couplers. Regards -Andreas
Great tutorial and links; I have QD’s on a Jinma Farm tractor. I use a hydraulic chainsaw from them. That chainsaw is too low on chain rpm. Is it possible to remove the internal components of both male and female QDs while still maintaining the quick coupling components allowing for hose coupling after the tractor/hydraulic pump is stopped?
I'm glad you enjoyed this video and thank you for your feedback! The ball nose and female pin act as the sealing mechanism in this style of hydraulic QD fitting, only when the lines are NOT Connected. This will keep your hydraulic oil within your lines after you disconnect. If you were to remove your internal components, you would still have the o-ring seal between the male and female coupler, but this is only the case when they are connected. If you were to disconnect the couplers without any internals (while the tractor is running), you would be losing a lot of oil within a few seconds. The QD's in this video will not necessarily restrict any flow any therefore your modification is not necessary. You could opt for a PTO driven auxiliary hydraulic system to run your chainsaw and have a lot of oil flow. There are many options on the market if that's what you're looking for. I hope this comment helps. Cheers
Hi there! Great video. I have some couplers from a JD 318, but mine don't have the ball bearing in the center, instead it has some kind of a teat and also a tiny little o'ring. I have 2 questions, 1) can i just get rid of the teat and use a ball bearing? 2) do you know what size is that tiny o'ring? I so glad I found this video, thank you!
Hello Henry, thank you for your feedback! I have a feeling your hydraulic coupler is very similar to an air-quick connect. I'm not sure if this is original or not because most hydraulic couplers I've rebuilt in the past always have a ball valve! 1) You can only replace the insert with a bearing ball if there is a tapered seat inside of the coupler housing. If it only has a shoulder for an o-ring, it's highly unlikely that a ball bearing will seal properly. 2) I'm not sure what size of o-ring that is, but if you check out this video: ua-cam.com/video/TkHeUoDsyaE/v-deo.html you might be able to determine the size yourself! The o-ring towards the front is a: Nitrile O-Ring 9/16" x 3/32" x 3/4" I hope this helps and if you have any other questions feel free to ask! Regards Andreas
That procedure would be a great preventative measure against rust, but it is not the best. If you were to "Blue' your steel, I would suggest Hot Bluing. This process adds a better coating and it is by far more durable. Think of it as paint compared to powder coating. I would love to try cold bluing in the near future since it's very simple and not that hard to do. Either way, it could be done to these couplers and it would probably give them a longer lifespan! Best regards
Hi Nick, 105 assembly grease is great to lube up parts. Most of the time I use this for engine rebuilds, but it works great to lube up external parts as well. Instead of this you can use a different lubricant of your preference. I hope this helps. Regards Andreas
If your couplings leak while connected, then your o-ring is damaged. If they leak while being disconnected, than the ball bearing is damaged or the seat. These two components act as a valve in this case and either one of the components is causing the assembly to leak. I hope this helps
@mhoch1736 you’ll want to verify if your male connector sealing surface is good. If this surface is damaged or rough, it could damage your new o-ring or simply be causing the leak.
I try to disassemble an old coupler from my MF 375 tractor. Special tool part is ok but my coupler doesn't have a C-clip and I can't figure out how it's taken apart. My "special tool" needs to be 4 flanged, that much is clear. Edit: nevermind, clip was in the other end covered in filth.
Hi Jukka, I saw you edited this comment and I hope you were able to remove the C-Clip! I haven't seen a 4-prong insert up until this date, but I suppose Massey Ferguson did that (haha). Nevertheless, I hope you were able to take it apart and determine what need to be replaced. Thanks for leaving a comment. Regards Andreas
@@WorkshopRebuild Thank you for your answer. I was able to dismantle the female coupler. It had couple special O-rings which I've ordered. Time to refurbish all my couplers.
The point of this video is that you can rebuild hydraulic couplers and no I did not reuse all the old parts. When you rebuilding an assembly you‘re exchanging wear parts, in this case the o-rings.
@linwoodyoder6161 : Obviously, you didn't go and read the description , well there it is , although I could add many more reasons but who probably be a thorn in some folks crawl. $2 or less ball bearing and a bit ingenuity and patience Vs. $30 new , the point is so sharp you could poke an eye out. Narrow minds tend to struggle concepts outside the box . Guys who tinker n toil in the realm of of machines of many kinds know parts are either obsolete or very expensive, so know how , is a must. Thank you for the video I just rebuilt one of mine on my jd 400 garden tractor. It's winter here had 1 leaking could not plow , I'm gonna do the other 3 in the spring of 24. Luckily I had proper rear bearing. Good to go. I also subscribed and liked 👍 keep em alive. They don't make equipment like the old JD tractors n what not. Question hydraulic fluids atf- F, or hygaurd? It seems a good hydraulic fluid would be OK as long as it's close in viscosity, and heat range. I use Atf-F in my 400 and hygaurd in my 317 , but at almost $50 a gallon for jd brand . I thought about trying a different type in the 300. Worst case it burns it up but I have another complete rear end out of another 300 series. Any thoughts thanks ,have a great New year in 24.
Best video ever! I'm 70 yrs old, rancher, You did a great job, thank you.
Hello John, thank you for tuning in and leaving a positive comment! I appreciate it A LOT!! Regards Andreas
Exactly the content I need to repair a JD 420 Garden Tractor refurbishing with leaking couplings after replacing the o rings. Very grateful!
I'm glad you found this video and I hope it works out on your end for your awesome JD420! Cheers
@@WorkshopRebuild Why doesn't the replacement of the inner o-ring stop a connection from leaking? Is it the one ball bearing under pressure?
I can not thank you enough for this. All my tractors leak. I have located and replaced these as an assembly as I could get them apart. They are very expensive and sometimes hard to find originals. I especially like that you provided links as that way we know we are getting the right type of O-ring. I am really looking forward to doing this on all my couplers!
You are more than welcome Ben! Same on my end, they always used to leak, but not anymore! That is right, they get expensive when you add up additional tractors!! I tried to find single parts online for sale, but I was not lucky enough. The assortments I listed will cover the rebuild for these couplers, but you will also have enough for ones in the future and bigger sizes as well. I will always try and find the correct links before I post a video from now on. I hope you have success on your rebuilds! Best regards
@@WorkshopRebuild Thank you for responding. A quick question: When looking at the face of the created tool, I am assuming as we go around the OD the three lugs you created are centered on 120 degrees around the circle. But what is the width of each lug? I need to get busy and make mine.
@@benkanobe7500 Great question! That is correct, each "tab" on the custom tool is 120 degrees offset. I just measured it up and if you make each tab 0.250" (1/4") that will fit, or if you measure by the cutouts, mine measure to be 0.156" (5/32"). While I'm already giving you measurements, you can make each cutout 1/4" deep. I hope that helps you out with your custom tool! Best regards
Excellent video! Well organized, excellent audio as well as video, excellent close-up shots, very informative.
Thank you for your overly positive comment! It‘s much appreciated. Regards Andreas
Thanks man. Now I know how these things break down and it's easy to identify that mine are leaking due to the o-rings. I'll pop in some new ones and should be leak free. The check ball would only need replacing since it's leaking when the coupler is apart., which is not my issue. This will save me a lot of money replacing the whole unit. Liked and subscribed.
Hi Robert, thanks for tuning in and watching this video to understand how you can repair your own 1/4" hydraulic couplers! That is correct, once coupled with the male fitting the only part that seals your assembly is the o-ring and the small bearing balls allow both parts to stay connected. You can grab yourself a couple o-rings for future purposes as they are not necessarily expensive. This should save you money over time and you will not have to buy complete couplers.
Thank you for your support, it's much appreciated! Regards Andreas
Quite interesting and very well explained for those of us that have NO experience but were in need. THANK YOU
Thank you very much for your kind words and I hope you will be able to repair some of your hydraulic couplers in the near future, if needed. Regards -Andreas
Really well done and extremely helpful. Keep up the good work!
I‘m glad you found this video helpful and thank you for your extremely positive feedback! 😃👍🏽👍🏽
I need to rebuild two of these right now. Thank you so much!
That's great! I hope your coupler rebuild will turn out great. No more leaky couplers :D Cheers
Excellent vid!! Many thanks
Thanks for your feedback and I’m glad you found this helpful! Cheers
Excellent breakdown info on how this connector is made and functions 😊. Where can the ball bearings be found?😮
I'm glad you found this helpful! Bearing balls can be purchased in all sizes. From metric to imperial almost anywhere online.
Great job as always! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.
Thank you! I will have some more "How To Videos" on the JD400, so it will stay interesting. Best regards
Your the man! Thanks so much for showing this👍
I appreciate your kind words! I'm glad I was able to get this out there to many viewers that are interested in fixing their own hydraulic couplers. Regards -Andreas
Great tutorial and links;
I have QD’s on a Jinma Farm tractor. I use a hydraulic chainsaw from them. That chainsaw is too low on chain rpm.
Is it possible to remove the internal components of both male and female QDs while still maintaining the quick coupling components allowing for hose coupling after the tractor/hydraulic pump is stopped?
I'm glad you enjoyed this video and thank you for your feedback! The ball nose and female pin act as the sealing mechanism in this style of hydraulic QD fitting, only when the lines are NOT Connected. This will keep your hydraulic oil within your lines after you disconnect.
If you were to remove your internal components, you would still have the o-ring seal between the male and female coupler, but this is only the case when they are connected.
If you were to disconnect the couplers without any internals (while the tractor is running), you would be losing a lot of oil within a few seconds.
The QD's in this video will not necessarily restrict any flow any therefore your modification is not necessary.
You could opt for a PTO driven auxiliary hydraulic system to run your chainsaw and have a lot of oil flow. There are many options on the market if that's what you're looking for.
I hope this comment helps. Cheers
Are these pioneer 4050-2p couplers? Are you sure they arnt 1/4” rather than 1/2”?
Hi there! Great video. I have some couplers from a JD 318, but mine don't have the ball bearing in the center, instead it has some kind of a teat and also a tiny little o'ring. I have 2 questions, 1) can i just get rid of the teat and use a ball bearing? 2) do you know what size is that tiny o'ring?
I so glad I found this video, thank you!
Hello Henry, thank you for your feedback! I have a feeling your hydraulic coupler is very similar to an air-quick connect. I'm not sure if this is original or not because most hydraulic couplers I've rebuilt in the past always have a ball valve!
1) You can only replace the insert with a bearing ball if there is a tapered seat inside of the coupler housing. If it only has a shoulder for an o-ring, it's highly unlikely that a ball bearing will seal properly.
2) I'm not sure what size of o-ring that is, but if you check out this video: ua-cam.com/video/TkHeUoDsyaE/v-deo.html you might be able to determine the size yourself!
The o-ring towards the front is a: Nitrile O-Ring 9/16" x 3/32" x 3/4"
I hope this helps and if you have any other questions feel free to ask!
Regards Andreas
@@WorkshopRebuild Hi Andreas, thank you for the replay I'll check out that video.
I was thinking, to keep the couplers from rusting, have you ever considered "Cold Blue".
That procedure would be a great preventative measure against rust, but it is not the best. If you were to "Blue' your steel, I would suggest Hot Bluing. This process adds a better coating and it is by far more durable. Think of it as paint compared to powder coating.
I would love to try cold bluing in the near future since it's very simple and not that hard to do. Either way, it could be done to these couplers and it would probably give them a longer lifespan!
Best regards
Is 105 good to use on hydraulic fittings?
Hi Nick, 105 assembly grease is great to lube up parts. Most of the time I use this for engine rebuilds, but it works great to lube up external parts as well.
Instead of this you can use a different lubricant of your preference.
I hope this helps. Regards Andreas
If they only leak when sitting , could it just be the o-ring? Ive replaced them and the male end . Still leaks
If your couplings leak while connected, then your o-ring is damaged.
If they leak while being disconnected, than the ball bearing is damaged or the seat. These two components act as a valve in this case and either one of the components is causing the assembly to leak.
I hope this helps
@@WorkshopRebuild thanks I'll replace them again
@mhoch1736 you’ll want to verify if your male connector sealing surface is good.
If this surface is damaged or rough, it could damage your new o-ring or simply be causing the leak.
@@WorkshopRebuild they're brand new
@mhoch1736 oh wow! If they are new and they are leaking, there is a different issue…I’d consider giving them back
Use heat to break red lok tight
That does work well, thanks for your advice. Best regards
I try to disassemble an old coupler from my MF 375 tractor. Special tool part is ok but my coupler doesn't have a C-clip and I can't figure out how it's taken apart. My "special tool" needs to be 4 flanged, that much is clear.
Edit: nevermind, clip was in the other end covered in filth.
Hi Jukka, I saw you edited this comment and I hope you were able to remove the C-Clip! I haven't seen a 4-prong insert up until this date, but I suppose Massey Ferguson did that (haha). Nevertheless, I hope you were able to take it apart and determine what need to be replaced. Thanks for leaving a comment. Regards Andreas
@@WorkshopRebuild Thank you for your answer. I was able to dismantle the female coupler. It had couple special O-rings which I've ordered. Time to refurbish all my couplers.
I am not sure the point of this video when u reuse all the old parts, in my opinion you would be better off just buying a new $20-25 coupler
The point of this video is that you can rebuild hydraulic couplers and no I did not reuse all the old parts. When you rebuilding an assembly you‘re exchanging wear parts, in this case the o-rings.
@linwoodyoder6161 : Obviously, you didn't go and read the description , well there it is , although I could add many more reasons but who probably be a thorn in some folks crawl. $2 or less ball bearing and a bit ingenuity and patience Vs. $30 new , the point is so sharp you could poke an eye out. Narrow minds tend to struggle concepts outside the box . Guys who tinker n toil in the realm of of machines of many kinds know parts are either obsolete or very expensive, so know how , is a must. Thank you for the video I just rebuilt one of mine on my jd 400 garden tractor. It's winter here had 1 leaking could not plow , I'm gonna do the other 3 in the spring of 24. Luckily I had proper rear bearing. Good to go. I also subscribed and liked 👍 keep em alive. They don't make equipment like the old JD tractors n what not. Question hydraulic fluids atf- F, or hygaurd? It seems a good hydraulic fluid would be OK as long as it's close in viscosity, and heat range. I use Atf-F in my 400 and hygaurd in my 317 , but at almost $50 a gallon for jd brand . I thought about trying a different type in the 300. Worst case it burns it up but I have another complete rear end out of another 300 series. Any thoughts thanks ,have a great New year in 24.