Just want to say thank you for solving my problem not with your hose but with the tapping the tip to release pressure. I’m still relatively new to tractors and hydraulics and I’ve spent a couple frustrating hours on issues including not being able to hook up my hydraulic. I thought it must be bent and was looking to order a new coupler. I watched you video then went out and tapped the tip on my draw bar. Problem solved!
Amazing. I just ran into this problem for the first time a few days ago, while trying to re-install my backhoe. I relieved the pressure by whacking the hose end on a flat surface (after an hour of trying to force the connection in 105 degree heat!
Thank you for the video, the trick taking pressure off the pioneer coupler will help greatly! Hooking up our loader is almost always a struggle with these connectors, will try it next time.
another option is to connect the flat face fittings on the attachment to each other. That equalizes pressure across the system. I use flat face couplings on the front of my tractor and pioneer on the rear remotes
TAKE THE 2 LINES ON YOUR EMPLEMENT AND CONNECT THEM TOGETHER...MALE TO FEMALE. TAKES CARE OF ANY PRESSURE BUILD UP. I'VE DONE THIS FOR 50 YRS. WORKS GOOD ALSO
How would this prevent pressure build up that is caused by higher outdoor temperatures? Even with the two couplers connected together, the fluid is still trapped in the system...
Great idea, Mike. I hadn't run into this issue unit this summer and what a pain it is! I just bought the Waite decompression tool which works well too.
Did something similar with the two different fitting styles and a 90° elbow. Haven't gotten to it yet, but also plan to make a couple hoses like that for changing the gender of connection as well. Will likely use the hoses with a SSQA-mounted post-puller in order to be able to use the post-puller (with appropriate mounting adapter) on the tractor's 3pt.
Nice video, Tractor Mike. ive done this all the time with my John Deere 1025 R sub compact tractor when hooking up & unkooking my backhoe/front loader hose connection.
Mike, I just went through a head scratching attempt to connect my grapple flat-faced couplers that had pressure build up on both ends of the line and I was getting super frustrated. Needless to say, I was not able to join the couplers until I used a Skid Steer Solutions hand clamp pressing tool that enabled me to get them attached. The tool cost $85 and finally worked. The tool is called the QC Mate Quick Coupler Hand Clamp. I made a video (not posted yet) using the QC Mate hand clamp to attach the hydraulic lines. It wasn't as smooth-going as on the creator's advertisement video but it ultimately relieved the hydraulic pressure which allowed me to eventually connect the lines. Thanks for your idea to create a quick-connect hose to purge the line between grapple hook-ups. Have a fine weekend. Appreciate your advice.
For less than the price of that adapter hose you can buy a small tool that looks like pliers that is designed to release the pressure from Pioneer couplers. I keep a pair in the tractor's toolbox.
These 2 coupling videos are terrific! I have been sharing them with all my construction equipment buddies. I do have a question - what is the best method for cleaning old, built-up gunk out of a female pioneer coupling? I inherited several implements with pioneer connectors that have been sitting and have a lot of gunk built-up that have been trying (unsuccessfully) to clean. I'm thinking it may be simpler to just replace the lines and connectors.
Good idea. Royal Brass makes adapters that do the same thing, but without the hose. Part numbers EAS-500 & SAE-500. But they’re kind of pricey. Love your channel!
The EAS-500 and SAE-500 are Pioneer brand adapters. Royal Brass also carries the Dixon brand and those part numbers are 4HTAG4 and 4AGHT4. As Small-Time Farmer says, these adapters are extremely handy and a no hoses to build.
English Ivy. It laughs at any herbicide I have tried. I managed to kill mine off by flail mowing and then cutting it back again every week all last summer whenever leaves popped out again.
@@TractorMike thank you for replying but where can I get one? Do you have a link? I wasn’t able to find one on line. Thank you for any help you can provide.
Hi Mike, when you were doing the video about hydraulic couplers I suggested to my computer screen that it would be a good idea to make up some adapters. Don't know about ESP but we are on the same wave length with this job. This is a great video and I enjoyed it a lot. Thanks! Greetings from Victoria, Australia.
Mike, another informative video but I have a question. As I recall, some years ago there was a tool to relieve hydraulic system pressure. It resembled a pair of pliers with one jaw, being U-shaped, slid in behind the collar. The other jaw would depress the ball of the male end. Haven't seen one in some time, though. Thanks.
The tool is still available. It used to be hand made by Waite's Tools but it was very hard to contact them. A new company has taken over the production of the tools and they are readily available in a variety of sizes. I keep a pair in my tractor toolbox. Check out... www.boltonhooks.com/hydraulic-tools/
Another good video, Mike. A few words to the wise from an old farmer: Hydraulic fittings and hoses my have different threads that look similar. Some are tapered pipe thread and some are straight thread that seal with an o-ring. I’ve seen enough boogered threads caused by people (some in dealerships) who didn’t know what they were doing. Not all Pioneer type couplings are compatible with ISO couplings. Some are. Avoid Chinese knock-offs like the plague. Flat-face couplers used on Case skidsteers are not compatible with nearly identical couplers used by Bobcat. Hope this helps.
I'll second the CNH couplers being different. If memory serves me right the Case/New Holland flat face fitting face is ever so slightly larger than the "standard" bobcat style. Found this out when I sold a brush cutter with a NH C232 compact track loader. Good point to bring up.
@@TractorMike That's what I was thinking.. As a stroke survivor with only one good hand. Summer time I do haul 8-9 loads of fill sand. I load my trailer then hook it up to the tractor. Some things pushing the male end in and pushing the female lock open with one hand can be a pain!
At work we have a small three port ball valve with a bottle fasted on the middle port . Two hose like you have with quick connects . You just turn the ball valve handle and dumps oil pressure into the bottle . No mess no hitting anything with hammers or rags etc . When plastic bottle gets full over few dumps you just empty it saving the oil .
@@TractorMike You can just use a tee fitting with two female quick connects direct too the tee also and put a single small ball valve direct on the middle port with a short dump hose for bottle or can . It’s cheaper and simple way . Most hoses on grapples are long enough that will give simple radius connecting . No need too put short hose on tee with the quick connect s . 👍
Might have been a wire jerked loose underneath by something you were bush hogging. I'd crawl under the tractor and see if there's not a wire hanging down.
Teflon can flake off and get into your hydraulic components. Any place that sells hydraulic components should have the thread sealer. The stuff I bought is expensive but it sure works better than pipe joint compound.
what do they do different on larger ag tractors? on my Kubota M7 I just press the pioneer fitting in, use the implement and tug on it and it comes out. press it in, tug it out. both done 1 handed, never have to be forced.
Thanks for the neat trick!! Isn’t better, and more compact to install a short galvanized nipple between the male and female? So the whole contraption can be compact and be stored in a tool box?
Hello Mike. I have a 1975 Ford County tractor that I replaced the backhoe hydraulic hoses on. Once done, I added the missing hydraulic oil and everything works fine, except each movement of the backhoe stops about halfway through. Can you identify the problem there is? Thanks a lot Mike!
So here’s a hydraulic question. Why does my bucket start dropping after the tractor is turned off? The hydraulic pressure “ bleeds” off and the bucket or pallet forks start lowering. Any help or suggestions ? Thanks
Thanks Mike!! As a newer Farmer, not from a Farming family, I've stumbled my way through most of this with our IH674. And I was so glad to see the tap you showed with the Pioneer is exactly what I figured out on my own to relieve the pressure when hooking up the bucket. It looks like one of the couplers is leaking nowadays and I need to replace it. How does one go about replacing the coupler (the end coming from the bucket) without hydraulic fluid flowing out? Also...the hoses are really quite worn and I should consider replacing those as well. Do I remove them, measure the lengths and then head over to a Tractor Supply or Rural King? Are there common sizes or do you end up getting a reel of it and cutting hoses to size? Thanks!
First, relieve all the pressure in the system by letting the bucket down to the ground and wiggling the joystick (or levers) until there's no weight on the hydraulics and then just remove the fitting. There's no way to keep oil from coming out, so have a coffee can handy. You can't really make your own hoses because it takes a special machine to crimp hose ends so they don't leak, but most decent farm supply stores offer pre-cut lengths of hose in 1' increments. I'd measure the hoses you want to replace and get them when you get the new fitting and you can replace all of them at the same time to minimize the oil loss. Also, make sure you get some hydraulic hose thread sealer to put on the threads. The stuff is expensive, but it'll keep you from constantly fighting leaks. Good luck!
@@TractorMike awesome! Thanks...really appreciate you taking the time to answer my question, AND put together all these videos for all of us...newbies, semi-newbies, to folks that have been Farming for years. Great resource and glad I found it!
I have a new Holland TL100 2 wheel drive. The PTO is self engaging (manual lever inside cab for PTO) when I push in clutch it will disengage. When I release clutch it self engages. Opinion?
Dunno if you've done it but Maybe occasionally mention the danger of loss of limb even life from a hydraulic high-pressure pinhole in your skin it never seems like much at the moment but the anti-corrosion stuff they put in hydro oil causes necrosis of the flesh. Ya gotta get a surgeon to dig it all out before it destroys you.
You are right James, if the attachment hose has a flat face connector under pressure you will not be able to connect it to Mike's adapters. This was my problem. I had to crack open the coupler fitting from the hose to relieve the pressure.
One extra note. As Mike said, make sure you're covering the end with a rag or something when relieving pressure. No matter how good your wife is at washing your clothes, hydraulic fluid sprayed onto your clothes is a permanent thing. Don't ask me how I know. But I have thrown away quite a few sweatshirts in my day.
Yeah...the term quick couplers my ass. I operate my cousin's Case 321F frontend loader at his car lot, and I am responsible for plowing the premises in the winter months. What I like about the loader is the ability to disconnect and drop the buckets and forks at the push of a button. However! When I want to plow using the snow blade with retractable wings, I need to connect the 'quick' connect hydraulic hoses from the blade to the loader. I struggle to no end to get those bastards on. I have tried many methods in trying to relieve the built up pressure from both loader and snow blade, but those couplers just don't want to go into place easily. Plus! The spacing between both receivers in the loader are too close together that I can't get my hands in to push down with a lot of weight. This is so activating. There's got to be an easier way?
Pressure in the attachment is caused by trapped fluid, it increases in pressure due to temperature differential, this causes the oil to expand resulting in the pressure increase. If you fit connect under couplers on the attachment they resolve the attachment problem. They are an ISO 16028 type coupler, that’s the bobcat style flat face coupler. Please don’t release the hydraulic pressure with any of your body or hands. Google oil injection it’s ugly. Be safe and best of luck out there.
No, but you can piece some together at a farm store that handles hydraulic components. We have a place called "Farm and Home" where I live and I got them there.
Just want to say thank you for solving my problem not with your hose but with the tapping the tip to release pressure. I’m still relatively new to tractors and hydraulics and I’ve spent a couple frustrating hours on issues including not being able to hook up my hydraulic. I thought it must be bent and was looking to order a new coupler. I watched you video then went out and tapped the tip on my draw bar. Problem solved!
Amazing. I just ran into this problem for the first time a few days ago, while trying to re-install my backhoe. I relieved the pressure by whacking the hose end on a flat surface (after an hour of trying to force the connection in 105 degree heat!
Thank you for the video, the trick taking pressure off the pioneer coupler will help greatly! Hooking up our loader is almost always a struggle with these connectors, will try it next time.
another option is to connect the flat face fittings on the attachment to each other. That equalizes pressure across the system. I use flat face couplings on the front of my tractor and pioneer on the rear remotes
Thanks for doing this video. Now that I have become an old coot, I need all the tricks, and these will help me cope with my old Massey.
TAKE THE 2 LINES ON YOUR EMPLEMENT AND CONNECT THEM TOGETHER...MALE TO FEMALE. TAKES CARE OF ANY PRESSURE BUILD UP. I'VE DONE THIS FOR 50 YRS. WORKS GOOD ALSO
How would this prevent pressure build up that is caused by higher outdoor temperatures? Even with the two couplers connected together, the fluid is still trapped in the system...
@@peteduncan921 he is referring to in even positive or negative pressure. Basically it equalizes the fluid in the implement.
After trying to connect my backhoe for about a hour, I found your video. Great advise now my backhoes is ready to go.
Thanks for the tip Mike. Your videos are always worth the watch. I tell people about your channel all the time. Keep 'em comin Mike.
Awesome! Thank you!
Thanks. Very helpful information. The "old farmer tip" worked for me.
Great idea, Mike. I hadn't run into this issue unit this summer and what a pain it is! I just bought the Waite decompression tool which works well too.
Thanks for this video Mike. I assembled a set of hoses like yours tonight to make installing my snow plow and grapple a bit easier in the future.
Thanks Mike, I was just about to do this myself. Thank you for confirming that it will work.
Thanks, Mike. This will help so much this summer.
Did something similar with the two different fitting styles and a 90° elbow. Haven't gotten to it yet, but also plan to make a couple hoses like that for changing the gender of connection as well. Will likely use the hoses with a SSQA-mounted post-puller in order to be able to use the post-puller (with appropriate mounting adapter) on the tractor's 3pt.
You can also shut your tractor off and turn the key back on and hit your controls to release the pressure.
Mike, you always have great words of wisdom on tractors! I have learned a lot from you. Thank you.
You are welcome, thanks for watching!
I hit “like”, then watch. I’ve never been wrong.
Thanks Mark, say hi to Mike for me!
Great idea Mike. You've describe a common problem for me.
Nice video, Tractor Mike. ive done this all the time with my John Deere 1025 R sub compact tractor when hooking up & unkooking my backhoe/front loader hose connection.
Your a life saver. Thanks Mike
Another good video mike. but maybe ought to offer them in your store save us from having to go to the store and figure it all out.
Great idea!
Mike, I just went through a head scratching attempt to connect my grapple flat-faced couplers that had pressure build up on both ends of the line and I was getting super frustrated. Needless to say, I was not able to join the couplers until I used a Skid Steer Solutions hand clamp pressing tool that enabled me to get them attached. The tool cost $85 and finally worked. The tool is called the QC Mate Quick Coupler Hand Clamp. I made a video (not posted yet) using the QC Mate hand clamp to attach the hydraulic lines. It wasn't as smooth-going as on the creator's advertisement video but it ultimately relieved the hydraulic pressure which allowed me to eventually connect the lines. Thanks for your idea to create a quick-connect hose to purge the line between grapple hook-ups. Have a fine weekend. Appreciate your advice.
$85 for the tool seems pretty outrageous........
Excellent idea. As an old farmer I have had my pants legs soaked with hydraulic oil too many times using the "Old Farmer Method".
Your a tractor genius💪🏼 thanks Mike🙏🏼
For less than the price of that adapter hose you can buy a small tool that looks like pliers that is designed to release the pressure from Pioneer couplers. I keep a pair in the tractor's toolbox.
Can you post a link to said tool? That would be super helpful!
Great video Mike
Thanks for the great tip. Always have a problem with my backhoe attachment.
Good simple idea and releasing the pressure tip too! Thanks
These 2 coupling videos are terrific! I have been sharing them with all my construction equipment buddies. I do have a question - what is the best method for cleaning old, built-up gunk out of a female pioneer coupling? I inherited several implements with pioneer connectors that have been sitting and have a lot of gunk built-up that have been trying (unsuccessfully) to clean. I'm thinking it may be simpler to just replace the lines and connectors.
Good idea. Royal Brass makes adapters that do the same thing, but without the hose. Part numbers EAS-500 & SAE-500. But they’re kind of pricey. Love your channel!
The EAS-500 and SAE-500 are Pioneer brand adapters. Royal Brass also carries the Dixon brand and those part numbers are 4HTAG4 and 4AGHT4. As Small-Time Farmer says, these adapters are extremely handy and a no hoses to build.
English Ivy. It laughs at any herbicide I have tried. I managed to kill mine off by flail mowing and then cutting it back again every week all last summer whenever leaves popped out again.
Mike, thanks for the great tip. What is the red spring arm that holds the hydraulic lines up and out of the way?
That's a TAMEit. One of the best inventions ever!
@@TractorMike thank you for replying but where can I get one? Do you have a link? I wasn’t able to find one on line. Thank you for any help you can provide.
Dwayne, shoot me an email at mike@asktractormike.com and I'll get you fixed up.
Hi Mike, when you were doing the video about hydraulic couplers I suggested to my computer screen that it would be a good idea to make up some adapters. Don't know about ESP but we are on the same wave length with this job. This is a great video and I enjoyed it a lot. Thanks! Greetings from Victoria, Australia.
I actually do mind reading on the side.
Mike, another informative video but I have a question. As I recall, some years ago there was a tool to relieve hydraulic system pressure. It resembled a pair of pliers with one jaw, being U-shaped, slid in behind the collar. The other jaw would depress the ball of the male end. Haven't seen one in some time, though. Thanks.
The tool is still available. It used to be hand made by Waite's Tools but it was very hard to contact them. A new company has taken over the production of the tools and they are readily available in a variety of sizes. I keep a pair in my tractor toolbox. Check out... www.boltonhooks.com/hydraulic-tools/
nice hint...I have already seen these issues in my farm implements..as a newbie
Great Explanation! Thank you!
Another good video, Mike.
A few words to the wise from an old farmer:
Hydraulic fittings and hoses my have different threads that look similar. Some are tapered pipe thread and some are straight thread that seal with an o-ring. I’ve seen enough boogered threads caused by people (some in dealerships) who didn’t know what they were doing.
Not all Pioneer type couplings are compatible with ISO couplings. Some are. Avoid Chinese knock-offs like the plague.
Flat-face couplers used on Case skidsteers are not compatible with nearly identical couplers used by Bobcat.
Hope this helps.
I'll second the CNH couplers being different. If memory serves me right the Case/New Holland flat face fitting face is ever so slightly larger than the "standard" bobcat style. Found this out when I sold a brush cutter with a NH C232 compact track loader. Good point to bring up.
Great idea Mike
Enjoy your channel Mike vary informative. Your thoughts on just using a union to covert the hydraulic fittings?
Jim, do you mean all pipe no hose? That would work.
@@TractorMike That's what I was thinking.. As a stroke survivor with only one good hand. Summer time I do haul 8-9 loads of fill sand. I load my trailer then hook it up to the tractor. Some things pushing the male end in and pushing the female lock open with one hand can be a pain!
Absolutely brilliant! Thank you
Another good suggestion. Thanks Mike. 👍🏻👍🏻
At work we have a small three port ball valve with a bottle fasted on the middle port . Two hose like you have with quick connects . You just turn the ball valve handle and dumps oil pressure into the bottle . No mess no hitting anything with hammers or rags etc . When plastic bottle gets full over few dumps you just empty it saving the oil .
What a great idea!!!
@@TractorMike You can just use a tee fitting with two female quick connects direct too the tee also and put a single small ball valve direct on the middle port with a short dump hose for bottle or can . It’s cheaper and simple way . Most hoses on grapples are long enough that will give simple radius connecting . No need too put short hose on tee with the quick connect s . 👍
Stephen, Is there you can send a drawing or picture of it??? what size of valve?
Sure wish you could post a pic of this device!
Very useful info, Mike. Thanks a bunch!
Good trick Mike
Hey Mike thanks for the tip. I couldn’t quite tell. Were you were alternating between male and female couplings on those two pigtails that you built.
Might have been a wire jerked loose underneath by something you were bush hogging. I'd crawl under the tractor and see if there's not a wire hanging down.
Good idea! 🚜🪵👍🏼🇱🇷
Thank you for the Pioneer connector tip. Every time I go to hook up my grapple, I have pressure build up.
I've always used teflon tape. Is that a no-no with hydraulics? Where do I get the thread sealer?
Teflon can flake off and get into your hydraulic components. Any place that sells hydraulic components should have the thread sealer. The stuff I bought is expensive but it sure works better than pipe joint compound.
what do they do different on larger ag tractors? on my Kubota M7 I just press the pioneer fitting in, use the implement and tug on it and it comes out. press it in, tug it out. both done 1 handed, never have to be forced.
Making too much sense Mike! Aloha!
Thanks for the neat trick!!
Isn’t better, and more compact to install a short galvanized nipple between the male and female? So the whole contraption can be compact and be stored in a tool box?
That would work. I'd probably lose it or forget where I put it. Hence, hoses for me.
Hello Mike. I have a 1975 Ford County tractor that I replaced the backhoe hydraulic hoses on. Once done, I added the missing hydraulic oil and everything works fine, except each movement of the backhoe stops about halfway through. Can you identify the problem there is? Thanks a lot Mike!
Sounds like a hose swapped somewhere. Are you sure you got them back exactly in the right place?
So here’s a hydraulic question. Why does my bucket start dropping after the tractor is turned off? The hydraulic pressure “ bleeds” off and the bucket or pallet forks start lowering. Any help or suggestions ? Thanks
Probably a tiny bit of hydro fluid leaking past seals.
Thanks Mike!! As a newer Farmer, not from a Farming family, I've stumbled my way through most of this with our IH674. And I was so glad to see the tap you showed with the Pioneer is exactly what I figured out on my own to relieve the pressure when hooking up the bucket.
It looks like one of the couplers is leaking nowadays and I need to replace it. How does one go about replacing the coupler (the end coming from the bucket) without hydraulic fluid flowing out? Also...the hoses are really quite worn and I should consider replacing those as well. Do I remove them, measure the lengths and then head over to a Tractor Supply or Rural King? Are there common sizes or do you end up getting a reel of it and cutting hoses to size?
Thanks!
First, relieve all the pressure in the system by letting the bucket down to the ground and wiggling the joystick (or levers) until there's no weight on the hydraulics and then just remove the fitting. There's no way to keep oil from coming out, so have a coffee can handy. You can't really make your own hoses because it takes a special machine to crimp hose ends so they don't leak, but most decent farm supply stores offer pre-cut lengths of hose in 1' increments. I'd measure the hoses you want to replace and get them when you get the new fitting and you can replace all of them at the same time to minimize the oil loss. Also, make sure you get some hydraulic hose thread sealer to put on the threads. The stuff is expensive, but it'll keep you from constantly fighting leaks. Good luck!
@@TractorMike awesome! Thanks...really appreciate you taking the time to answer my question, AND put together all these videos for all of us...newbies, semi-newbies, to folks that have been Farming for years. Great resource and glad I found it!
Great Idea
Tractor mike what is that red coiled thing you have on the bar to keep hydraulic lines out of the way
It's the TameIT: asktractormike.com/product/tame-it-hydraulic-hose-management-device/. A little pricey, but well worth it in my humble opinion.
Why do you need an adapter coupler to connect the hydraulic coupler? Will they not thread directly to the hose?
Great idea.
Great idea!!!!
Hey Mike, great idea! Just to clarify, you would need to connect the coupler before the pressure increases in the line, correct?
You are correct. Don't wait!
@@TractorMike great! So then you would need a coupler for each attachment then, right?
Thx for your very helpful vids!
Great idea!
This might be dumb, but can the tool assist with disconnecting them?
I have a new Holland TL100 2 wheel drive. The PTO is self engaging (manual lever inside cab for PTO) when I push in clutch it will disengage. When I release clutch it self engages. Opinion?
Hay Mike could you get the mechanic's out and do a vidio about cutting the hydraulic lines to add rear controls .
Great video 🤠
Brilliant 👏 👏 👏 👏 thank you
Good idea.
Or put a tee into the hose on the implement and put a valve on it to open when it has psi
good idea
Unhooking my tiller drive shaft is a pain. Show a trick on getting drive shaft off. Don't have trouble with Bush Hog only my tiller.
Any comments about removing flat face couplers that are under pressure making them very hard to disconnect.
Great tip Mike, thanks for sharing 👍🏻
Dunno if you've done it but Maybe occasionally mention the danger of loss of limb even life from a hydraulic high-pressure pinhole in your skin it never seems like much at the moment but the anti-corrosion stuff they put in hydro oil causes necrosis of the flesh. Ya gotta get a surgeon to dig it all out before it destroys you.
But you still have to connect the Flat faces !! if there is pressure when disconnecting the attachment in the attachment
You are right James, if the attachment hose has a flat face connector under pressure you will not be able to connect it to Mike's adapters. This was my problem. I had to crack open the coupler fitting from the hose to relieve the pressure.
Great!
What Spring is that to keep the hoses out of the way?
That's a TAMEit. Awesome tool for keeping hoses out of the way.
I just take a wrench and crack a line on the attachment if you can't get em hooked.
Could have sworn I saw you about 10 minutes ago in a black SUV in Paris Tennessee. Was that you?
Nope, wasn't me. I'm working in MO today. It's hard to imagine that there's two people on the planet with these freakish good looks.
@@TractorMike Lol
One extra note. As Mike said, make sure you're covering the end with a rag or something when relieving pressure. No matter how good your wife is at washing your clothes, hydraulic fluid sprayed onto your clothes is a permanent thing. Don't ask me how I know. But I have thrown away quite a few sweatshirts in my day.
Good Idea Mike , but I think you were " Pressured" into this one ! 🤔
Yeah...the term quick couplers my ass. I operate my cousin's Case 321F frontend loader at his car lot, and I am responsible for plowing the premises in the winter months. What I like about the loader is the ability to disconnect and drop the buckets and forks at the push of a button. However! When I want to plow using the snow blade with retractable wings, I need to connect the 'quick' connect hydraulic hoses from the blade to the loader. I struggle to no end to get those bastards on. I have tried many methods in trying to relieve the built up pressure from both loader and snow blade, but those couplers just don't want to go into place easily. Plus! The spacing between both receivers in the loader are too close together that I can't get my hands in to push down with a lot of weight. This is so activating. There's got to be an easier way?
Pressure in the attachment is caused by trapped fluid, it increases in pressure due to temperature differential, this causes the oil to expand resulting in the pressure increase. If you fit connect under couplers on the attachment they resolve the attachment problem. They are an ISO 16028 type coupler, that’s the bobcat style flat face coupler. Please don’t release the hydraulic pressure with any of your body or hands. Google oil injection it’s ugly. Be safe and best of luck out there.
UA-cam is putting so many ads in short videos that it is difficult to watch.
Mike, is there a reason that tractor tires and rims are bolted on instead of using studs with lug nuts like cars and trucks use?
Great question! I have no idea what the answer is. In the ag world it's generally "because we've always done it that way!"
Better off with the pioneer the cost to make that little connector would be close to 100. Keeping them clean before connecting is also a better idea.
Why didn't you just make a short hose with 2 fittings, and tie the 2 hoses on the attachment together?
Could have done that but I wanted to have access to Pioneer fittings. I may never need them, but they're there if I do.
Drop the mic would you sell these hydraulic hoses to the public I wish you would I need some I'd be willing to pay a good price
Cold water on the hoses. Easy peasy.
Wow! Great idea. Why didn't I think of that??? I may provide that tip in the next video I do about the topic. I'll credit you.
Do you sell these?
No, but you can piece some together at a farm store that handles hydraulic components. We have a place called "Farm and Home" where I live and I got them there.
There are flat face couplers designed to connect under pressure. They are pricey.
Why don't you just buy connect under presser couplers
forget the hammer which can damage your connectors, buy an Easy Relief Tool from Australia
Be sure and dont put your thumb over the couplings to relieve any pressure. Use the hammer. Google hydraulic injection and u will see why.
As usual... Marketing
Hoses are just way too complex for most people. They should be banned.
Real farmers have all their coveralls oil stained. It's like tye dye, only smelly and not so pretty.
Wasted 8 minutes