I think too little weight might be a larger problem than too much. Remember this boat is designed to run best near capacity, so no worries adding literal metric tons to its weight for reinforcing (if its in the budget). Lifeboats (usually) are very fragile in ice, i think not only should you reinfoce the keel, but also the hull itself especially along the bow as the ice pinches the sides as you push through it. Ive had lifeboat courses in winter, and even with 3 cm thick ice we slow down to about a knot before hitting it, and you still see the glassfibre flexing when driving through On ships, if we have to abandon we would rather take inflatable liferafts and a fast rescue boat to pull the raft to the edge of the ice to be pulled up than go in a lifeboat. Just to give a perspecive on lifeboats in ice
Yes indeed - ballast will be Alan's friend. We won't be ice breaking or challenging/ramming ice directly - more moving amongst it. On the topic of the FB flexing - that's good. FB has good elongation to break and impact absorption, and this lack of brittleness will limit cracks or failure. Reinforcement for impact points at the bow? Perhaps indeed....
@@AlexHibbertOriginals you may want to consider some protection, maybe some rubber panels glued into the hull a little above and bellow the water line just to help absorb I’ve imoacts and distribute the blow, since Ive is bigger bellow the surface and takes odd shapes.
Quick note about prop shroud ideas and advice - rest assured I do read all of them. I'll only reply to a number where's there a point in doing so, otherwise I'll be repeating myself to all the similar ones - similar most likely as they are good ideas! Cheers all.
I'm not a naval architec so keep that in mind while veiwing my sugestions. Alan was designed for a one time severe use. The hull should be stiff enough for extended use, but the rudder and nozzle are not up to continued use in ice filled waters. To begin, I would make a pattern to be used for sand casting a full length keel. This keel would straighten out the existing keel so the base of the rudder post could be mounted like a displacement hull normally is. This will protect your propeller. The reason you have a nozzle for your prop thrust is because directing the water flow will help turn the boat. Make a new one from Stainless steel. Increase your rudder size by 100%. Yes 100%. Manuvering through Ice will require quicker sreering responce than the little toy you have now. Replace your bronze prop with a stainless steel 4 blade as you will need good thrust to push ice around and strong blades that are resistant to bending or breaking. Carry the old bronze prop for a spare. I'm really enjoying spending your money but I think these suggestions are practical and will improve the boat's performence. I don't know about the engine horsepower. Make sure it can move all the weight at hull speed at no more than 80% throttle. Are you broke yet? This adventure you are planing sound exciting and challanging. God speed, Dave
I was going to suggest an all around cheaper way of doing that same approximate thing: just sheet steel on either side of the existing "keel" extending down below the level of the propeller shroud pivot, regular structural steel seems fine. Welding a couple of perpendicular protectors to the new keel leading up to the existing fiberglass propeller shroud should push aside anything big enough to damage the shroud. It depends on his budget for which of those options is better. Casting a whole new keel and having a stainless steel shroud made seems like it would be an order of magnitude more expensive than what I suggested. Regardless, if there's going to be ice impacts at all, it seems like you need something perpendicular to the keel to divert objects away from the propeller and shroud or they and their linkages have a high chance of being destroyed. I don't know if they make something to make the propeller break away instead of ruining the shaft and something similar for the rudder/shroud linkages but I'd be worried about those more than the actual propeller and shroud themselves, which can be replaced. If I remember right its a 45hp diesel engine.
Thanks both of you for this input. I've taken some notes and will share with the engineer I'm consulting with. Cost is always to be a concern more than usual (as I'm no longer sponsor-funded). Yes it's a 48hp diesel. A few of the horses have liked escaped. The point that creating something more likely to incur damage and cause chaos, and be hard to repair, is inferior to having a propeller to replace a knackered one is pertinent. I'm investigating superior props as we speak.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Do you know if it uses hydraulic steering or cable steering or a solid mechanical linkage between the wheel and the rudder? I only have my fishing boat as an example and it has a two cable system for steering. If its mechanical steering you could just use something like a 4 wheeler shock absorber in line with the linkage so the whole rudder assembly would have some give to it if struck. If its hydraulic, you might be able to use a simple fitting somewhere and a rupture disc. If its cable steering it would be pretty easy to add a shock absorber in there too. Sorry for giving you even more things to consider. I haven't done any ocean boating, but there's a lot of fishing garbage out there that floats. Getting an old line or something wrapped around the prop can turn the prop shaft seal bearing into a melted, fused lump of plastic. If you have the spare electricity, a flood light under water and a camera would make for good documentary-making and let you see things that might damage the boat. I know some people who own narrowboats who have done that for that reason, at least the lighting part.
Hello, thanks for the update on alan. I noticed that the left side black stairs, are metal plates without holes to drain any water, this could be dangerous because it would allow the accumulation of a patina of water that could freeze and make stairs extremely dangerous. Perhaps it would be better to replace them with grids or make holes, in addition these solutions would also increase the grip of the boots. Good luck and good work
I should perhaps have added that onto this video. The steps have a high grip finish, and in super cold temperatures ice wouldn't form there. During the warmer at sea periods when there's a frost, I'm looking at a solution to bolt on a grating of sorts.
Fabricate a skid for the rear portion of the keel and have it lead up and connect to the bracket for the nozzle/rudder. A full-length version often used on boat keels is called a keel shoe here in the US. There may be other terminology used in the UK or Europe. Researching these may give some ideas for keel protection outside. I've seen concrete and concrete with steel punchings mixed in used to ballast and strengthen hollow keels. This may be an option for the interior. Good luck. Following with great interest.
On the propeller area-- I'm no structural engineer, but I do know a thing or two about crushing things. I'd go big with possible supports going all the way to the top and over the roof of the vessel. Doing so to without making it ugly or super heavy is another thing to ponder 🤔
1:17 I've spent many hours this morning racking my brain about a skid plate, and I've got a few sketches that would "work" without having to necessarily create new holes, but its not perfect without creating holes, or welding instead of brackets. The premise is to make a metal bracket that wraps the keel (like a "U" shape), and the bottom side tapers towards the back to create a smooth extension to the keel that adds extra depth so its lower than the prop. Then, place a beam on the sterns "porch" if you will just in front of the rear hatch, and another under the boat just above the propeller, and repurpose those 2 bolt slots as its anchor point; then you could box up the sides on the back. Next, using the bolt points just bellow the boats rubber trim, you could bracket a bar on the back 2 or 3 bolt marks that you see just below the port hatch, and bring it all the way back to the "porch" beam for added strength. Now you've got a exterior plank to traverse the ship sides or additionally mount too. Next we need to attach that new side beam thats connect via those 2 or 3 bolts just bellow the black rubber trim, we need to connect it to our bracket on the keel. This might be the hardest part. Youll need to make a cardboard cut out that captures the curve of the ship running up from where our keel bracke meets the hull up high enough to be able to connect bars from the side bar thats connected to those 2 or 3 bolts with an angle bracket, or welded. You could just bend several pipes to match the ship hull curve and run them down to the keel bracket instead to achieve similar results, but a solid metal plate gives you greater surface area to absorb impacts. Now you effectively have enough of a frame to attach metal sheets too in order to shielf the prop from ice. So now that you've got several metal beams going down to and squared off onto the keel and around the propeller, for added strength I highly suggest considering that you run an additional bracket off the bar thats on the bottom 2 bolts, and add another point of contact at the large black metal mounting plate on the stern, but thats your call. Youll want a thick rubber spacer between this entire metal cage and the boat so a great way to source bulk thick strong is by using rubber horse matts to guard against the friction. Lastly, stick on some sufficiently gauged sheet metal around the newly formed cage, and then I'd personally to the math on your added weight vs empty space, tape plastic onto the outside of it to make it water tight long enough to fill the sucker with some marine grade polyurethane foam to maintain proper buoyancy, and wrap it all in fiberglass to protect it from general corrosion, reduce created drag, and make it look nice. Hope this makes sense, if not, you can see my horrible sketches sometime. cheers.
I forgot to mention, in this system, id reuse the bolting points for the white metal bar on the keel as a connecting point for the keel bracket. now you have upwards of 10-12 points of connection to the ship, more if you utilize the stern mounting plate, or attach the "porch" beam to the ship. you don't necessarily have to frame the back either if you think the 2 bolts under the propeller are sufficient.. you see this stuff better than i ever will, i'm sure theres a ton of room for improvement to my idea
As promised, I've had a proper read now! Your idea is broadly similar the frame I think can ultimately be constructed, filled and glassed in. The only point I'd make is there it's not the place for foam - the boat has tons of it, and is lacking ballast, so this is a great opportunity to get some steel in there!
Re the skeg issue; I notice there is an angle in the skeg toward the stern. That could be built up with GRP to make it level with the rest of the skeg. Removing the mettle hanger and prop shrowd and refashioning the rudder could work but would remove some protection for the prop. Increasing the depth of the whole skeg by building it up with GRP would also work. The easiest way of adding ballast is to pour concrete into the hollow skeg. Another common option is to use lead shot. Another option completely would be to add bilge keels on either side of the skeg that Alan can sit on. They would be slightly deeper than the stern gear and could be designed or adapted for Alan to slide on if required. They might reduce the effectiveness of the rudder slightly but that can easily be fixed.
Nice Video Alex. I hope everything will be fine on your expedition. If I may give you an advice make sure you are able to go aboard from the sea by yourself easily by installing a ladder for example. A swimming platform on the stern is also a good idea
For the bottom of the stern section, lay a new layer of fibreglass that goes from the middle of the bottom to the sides making it a more ice friendly rounded surface. You will need to add a fair bit of ballast in order to counter the unstable after effects but because you should increase the volume of the boat by doing that you should be able to ha for the extra weight.
How about some struts running athwartship from the keel to the hull somewhere around the stringer location. It would add parasitic drag, but speed isn’t a priority...or “Alan” would look different. Also noted a lot of that external wiring is for lights. There are some lights now that have housings that would let you mount them in the fiberglass and run your wiring internally
Dont know if or how often you would try to leave it on the ice but google bilge keels, quite popular around your neck of woods allows the boat to sit on the twin keels in an upright and stably. If you can get up on the ice you could use it as a camp For you bow door, maybe something like an observation dome on the front
@@AlexHibbertOriginals On the ice possibly true, but I live and sail in australia and the pacific, not a lot of ice around here. But the additional drag from the wetted surface area is pretty negliable. If it is a concern you could cut central keel of to reduce drag. Bilge keels have the advantage of better stability, which might be a bonus on the telb as stabilitity was probably not high on the a design specs and might bob around. The biggest disadvantage of bilge keels is that they effect the pointing ability of sailing yachts/ But thats a non issue for you.
I'm looking at your propeller shaft and thinking.... What if you increase the length out from the stern, and modify the shape (a little) at the end of the stern (more wedge like). Then change the prop. You should increase speed markedly. Functionally this could be a life saver around those big floaty steely things(🚢) oh and a huge horn.....
i would suggest some tube section on the stern to protect the prop, kinda like a skidplate but made from pipe... a skid bumper? that would be fairly unitrusive to waterflow and alow alan to touch ice w/o much risk
Cant help thinking some sort of grid to stand on the back of me might be handy, perhaps some of that fibreglass with grit embedded mesh in a stainless frame would be just the ticket for photography etc and besides just standing outside when it's calm enough to do so for morale reasons.
I don't see your problem with the prop mount. You have the 4 bolts and the... let's say anchor point for the prop housing shaft. So you can make a few drawings how triangular you want to have it. I haven't seen the inside, perhaps you can even reinforce the keel so Alan can sit on it, if lifted or if you fall dry. I would make a template, buy a few cm thick piece of steel plate and go for it. It would be even possible to realize some kind of triangular foil with it that would help stabilize Alan not just by weight.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals of course. I have sail life in mind, who glassed the whole inside bottom over. Man, haven't used my poor stickwelder in the cellar for far too long :(
Fill the ballast with sea water, it will freeze solid without damaging the fibreglass. If you use something like lead then you would need to make a sand mold the same size to fill it in sections to then put inside your boat which would take a long time but metal against fibreglass might cause damage to the fibreglass.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Yeah it's okay, thanks for your reply, I later realized that the water idea might be a bad idea unless you were adding a keel somewhat like a yacht has.
A solid ( or at least glass foam glass ) skeg that encompassed the prop tube and joined back further forward up the hull would give the hull a better chance if dragged out onto ice. this obviously would increase drag. but if you were to fill it with lead , could lend to adding a lower weight distribution and increase stability . just an idea id like to throw out.
I love these sort of conversion projects, on any sort of vehicle and I am so glad youtube threw this to me a month ago. Keep up the hard work and hope to see you Canada side eventually.
If you find yourself needing to replace your drone, the DJI FPV has less intrusive collision avoidance in normal mode and is disabled entirely in sports and manual modes. The drone is less useful for cinematic video due to having only a single axle gimbal though.
Using sandable hard-foam (used to make prototypes and custom parts e.g. in the car industry) and fibre lay-up molding, you should be able to create a strong new bottom mount for the propeller shroud. I would recommend a trapezoidal cross-section that widens towards the top, rounded off at the bottom. Rounding reduces stress concentrations along its surface when exposed to the lateral forces induced by the ice. The trapezoidal shape should result in a net upward force component, reducing the risk hull and mount being pulled apart by the ice. Use a dedicated bushing for the bottom axle of the shroud though, e.g. bronze, and use it as an insert.
Way to cool. As i mentioned before, had a friend who lived in Nanisivik wonderful community thats kind have become more and more important again as the canadian military are looking at it as being a gateway station/navel base fro the north west passage.
9:30 On the question of protecting the prop and duct, it looks like that section of keel sweeps up near the stern. How much protection would you get if the keel were straight all the way back?
We've certainly had a lot of feedback that building up that section around the prop shaft housing could aid ice behaviour, protection, and stability. Currently running ideas past marine design guys.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals if you cut access panels in the hull of the existing boat. you might be able to make a support structure out of steel or aluminum and use brackets embedded in the new fiberglass hull to attach it through the frame into the existing hull of Allen. Sand is an easy and cheap ballast that can also be removed or changed. You could also use concrete as a more permanent solution. You could even make part of the extension into a fuel tank further moving the center of gravity down.
hello me again I didnt know you planned to leave her in ice so a couple thoughts maybe reinforce the hull in some way so she has a better chance of survival ? Also I keep thinking about how your ducted prop could be an issue with ice getting stuck in it and shearing a pin on the prop or driveshaft would not be welcome, and in the situation you described hauling it up on the ice it may damage the rudder post of it tries supporting its weight on the side of ducted nozzel it may cause damage. Sorry no good answers for you just some thoughts as a sailor.
The best tactic with polar hulls (i.e. Fram and not Endurance) is to have a shape that allows for the structure to rise up amongst ice and not be crushed. It can then sit atop - whether helped by winches or not. This is the only real option for non-ice rated metal hull.
About your stern conundrum: I initially thought about filling that void with the "potting" material used for encapsulating high voltage, high frequency circuitry components. It's extremely dense and fairly heavy. And it's virtually indestructible. But it's also very expensive. And it generates a fair amount of heat as it cures. That's a pretty large space to fill. Also, not knowing how well the unit is supported structurally could be a worry with this weight. My thinking on such things tend to become insanely elaborate before I start to whittle away the ridiculous and slowly unravel it to reveal a simpler solution. Hoping my thought sparks your far more logical mind in some way...
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Pellets? Encapsulated at the top? Anyway, glad 50kg is no problem-- so I guess the volume of space isn't as large as I assumed. (Really hard to gauge with no reference in a video).
You sure are asking alot out of her um him, Alan!!. The safest imo is to switch propeller size and engine if needed to accommodate. I would also strengthen and fill keel. The cheapest would be to remove the prop etc, when you want to beach but that sounds horrible. You still will need to strengthen keel no matter what. Extending the keel that much would be wild. Beaching=crashing onto its side. Maybe inflatable bags to stabilize. Alot of weight though. Winch or full throttle?
What about filling in the aft keel void with mixture of cement and lead? It’ll add substantial weight, fill the void so it won’t be susceptible to being crush by ice
I’d be very hesitant to make the minuscule skeg even more thick and rounded, at least not without adding a retractable centreboard of some sort. On that note, a retractable centreboard (or two) is probably a rather good idea anyhow. You likely won’t want to punch a slot in the bottom of the vessel, but it’s certainly an option to make one that hinges forward or backward, or even to one side or another. How to reliably swing it without getting hypothermia is an exercise left to the reader. Twin rigid bilge-keels that the ship can sit on is also an option, and would leave it significantly more stable if you want to camp inside it while it’s on the ice. But a fair bit of work to fibreglass them up from scratch, compared to a couple pieces of painted ply screwed to some aluminium square section.
Keel addition is a big debate at the moment. Any keel will be susceptible to ice. The structure on which to mount foldable side keels would be pretty substantial in itself.
Alan is going to be used in other seasons too. By the way that's not strictly true. Above the Arctic Circle there is still sun in the winter season, reducing as you go north. Unless you define the winter as the sun not rising. Which you could.
Maybe go to the wrecking yard and pull out the unused airbags from several vehicles. Fasten them around the area to be protected and, before you winch it up on the ice, inflate the airbags. Practically no money spent. Perfect solution. Cheers😁
What about a tube welded frame that wraps around the rear of the (ballast?) So it prevents scraping yet is a more durable to set on ice and more flat then whats currently there? I'm curious how you'll problem solve that. Or a reinforcement of plates. But that would add more weight then a frame like the top section has. Thanks for uploading!
It would be probably quite expensive but you could cover the whole keel in a welded stainless plate frame that would extend it downward and back to the propeller
I find it unfortunate that highly motivated and capable explorers like you have to invest so much of your time and energy into fundraising and sponsorship rather than being able to devote those assets to the project itself! I realize that fundraising and sponsorship are vital as few are fortunate enough to be in the position of being able to fund such expeditions on their own! How unfortunate that there were no polar equipped TELB's available as this presumably would have saved considerable time, efforts and expense! You inspire confidence in projects in which you are involved and I have no doubt whatsoever that Alan will be perfect for your intended missions by the time you're through. You mentioned that the Helm position window collected rainwater, may I suggest a product called 'Rainex' which causes liquid to run off rather than to sit or pool. It worked great on my motorcycle helmet visor, mirrors, lights and instruments and on my car windows, mirrors and lights.
Regarding the nozzle support. It’s hard to tell 100% because it’s a video and not in person. That being said the existing support could be modified in a wedge shape configuration the goes forward more to the point just aft of where the keel is sitting on a block. Have a flat bottom fashioned with plate of steel the same width as the flat plate steel that supports the bottom of the nozzle. Basically copying the current design and extending it forward to that point mentioned. The metal is plenty thick enough to support the boat and if you fill in that gap then it will be a smooth transition from the fiberglass keel to the modified support. I’d have a welder visit the boat yard with the piece still attached to the boat. That we he can take all the proper measurements it it ends up correct on the first go. After its dabbed up I’d bring it back, test fit and drill the additional mounting holes in the steel before you have it galvanized. Keep in mind that you’ll need to ever so slightly over size the holes because galvanizing adds thickness to the material and will make the holes smaller.
Thanks Jeremy. There's a question mark over having the nozzle removed, prop changed up and a larger rudder added. Your structural process for the shape change seems sound.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals having a nozzle around your prop makes them far more efficient. And it’s also a good idea if you’ll be around ice. If you are looking for more thrust from your prop you can ask a prop shop about adding some pitch to yours by cupping the blade tips. This is like having a prop with more degrees and will provide more thrust at the same RPM. Cupping is a cheaper solution then buying a new prop. You just need to make sure you stay within your horse power limits or you’ll over work your engine. Take your engine specs with you to the prop shop. I would suggest a sea trail loaded with the desired amount of weight that your gear will take up for your excursions. See what your RPM is at top speed. Great work so far. My advice is meant with respect. I hope it helps. Cheers, Jeremy K 19 year Journeyman Diesel Mechanic
Well, you have an amazing platform. Why not put a walkway around the boat. You can even fold it up so it is out of the way but easily move around the boat when down. Would also make it easier to get on and off the boat.
I considered it, but it's not really necessary, and would mean a lot of structural work into blind insulated sections. Access to the bow and stern platforms, and the deck, is pretty simple.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Fair enough, was just thinking for your ease of use with all that gear you will be needing out in that cold environment. But you know what you need!
Are you set on a 2k paint? I've had tremendous success using Interlux Pre-Kote primer followed by lightly thinned Interlux Brightside topside paint. I did the roll & tip method and you'd swear it was sprayed. Some good videos on YT demonstrating it's use. Just a thought.
Don't think of it as a swim platform. Think of it as an easy way to climb back aboard after a man overboard situation. It would allow multiple people to safely stand on the back of the boat and help haul someone aboard quickly. A teak swim deck.....(I mean a safety platform)… would also lower your insurance rates?
Insuring these boats is a nightmare already sadly. But yes a grating extension to the stern is possible. Drop ladders out of side hatches would be better for picking up swimmers, as away from the prop.
Greetings! Any quotes in yet to ship Alan to Canada? I'm toying with a lifeboat project to use for the canals as well as fjords in Europe and curious about the rough cost of transport from N.A. and the U.K. Cheers!
I just started reading POLAR ESKIMO, and your Episode just gave some more context about the dark Ice project. I am sorry Covid turned your plans upside down! It had some crazy impact on all our plans. The concept of freezing Alan in the ice also reminded me of Fritjof Nansen’s Fram. Will Alan’s hull shape allow the ice to push the boat up out of the ice?.
Would it be bad to attach some steel to the bottom of it? Something triangular is always best then because that seems to be the strongest shape (I think)
I am watching the videos as your interesting and yes I want to know about the conversion. I want to convert my own lifeboat when I get one, and this will help with that by giving me Ideas. I was going to ask why do you need Alan. But now why not have someone come get her when you plan to leave him cocooned in the ice and have that person drive the boat to Alaska or to a Canadian Port?
create a metal keel in the shape you need to "slip over" the entire keel and thru bolt it. this should give you the protection for the fiberglass from the ice and weight you need for ballast. thru bolted for maintenance and adjustments in design, when happy , seal the crap out of the bolt thru spots
I would be tempted to contact UA-camr "boat works today" for some advice on the renforcing the keyl. He exclusively works withe fiber glass boats, repairs and alterations, he may have some good ideas and advice on what products you may require !
Sounds like you need to build a full length snow sled built under the boat while you have it up on dry dock and that way you can use it on snow or water kind of like a 4 wheel drive vehicle is at home in the mud. I bet you could even rig an outboard snow wheel at the back to propel the boat on ice and snow that rises and lowers when needed. Just be sure to outfit your boat with a powerful electric boat motor so when the TESLA wireless power gets up and running in a decade or so your boat can operate on free electricity with an unlimited range. Image traveling around the world with only an electric boat motor that runs to infinity and beyond.
@@jacopomazzoni Ah I see - yeah those jackets were only prototypes. Generally sponsors have colour scheme rules, so would require a section painted to their background colour, or they'd pay for a whole repaint.
This was part of the previous plan. Alan wouldn't be floating around - there's a pretty reliable ice drift and then with multiple trackers on board, we could quickly intercept once freed into the north of the North Atlantic - where shipping is minimal.
I got curious, so I google-fu'd these things. I can see why they get bought for houseboat conversion, costs less then a used houseboat and laughs at foul weather that'd flip a sail yacht... Huh, Allen is a very neat vessel, and seems to be uniquely well suited for the role of mobile arctic base-station.
@@Mithraschosen there is special winter diesel available that is good for atleast -30C° and as its stored inside the boat its unlikely it will get anywhere near freezing during use so there are multiple options that he can make sure it wont cause trouble
The latter point is right here - ours would be stored at room temperature. But yes, you can get additives to get diesel to stop gelling at low temp. The old trick used to be adding kerosene, but that's a power reducing, smelly mistake.
![Lifeboat Conversion Ep12: Introduction to 12V / 24V electrics system, and battery choices [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YYRoof7nrug/mqdefault.jpg)
![Lifeboat Conversion Ep12: Introduction to 12V / 24V electrics system, and battery choices [4K]](/img/tr.png)
![Lifeboat Conversion Ep42: Getting on with a load of smaller jobs inside and outside of Alan [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/sDXXJp9P6oc/mqdefault.jpg)
I just binged the first 10 episodes last night, this couldn't have come at a better time
Same
Same. UA-cam recommendations are crazy
wow same
Same
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I think too little weight might be a larger problem than too much. Remember this boat is designed to run best near capacity, so no worries adding literal metric tons to its weight for reinforcing (if its in the budget).
Lifeboats (usually) are very fragile in ice, i think not only should you reinfoce the keel, but also the hull itself especially along the bow as the ice pinches the sides as you push through it.
Ive had lifeboat courses in winter, and even with 3 cm thick ice we slow down to about a knot before hitting it, and you still see the glassfibre flexing when driving through
On ships, if we have to abandon we would rather take inflatable liferafts and a fast rescue boat to pull the raft to the edge of the ice to be pulled up than go in a lifeboat. Just to give a perspecive on lifeboats in ice
Yes indeed - ballast will be Alan's friend.
We won't be ice breaking or challenging/ramming ice directly - more moving amongst it.
On the topic of the FB flexing - that's good. FB has good elongation to break and impact absorption, and this lack of brittleness will limit cracks or failure. Reinforcement for impact points at the bow? Perhaps indeed....
@@AlexHibbertOriginals you may want to consider some protection, maybe some rubber panels glued into the hull a little above and bellow the water line just to help absorb I’ve imoacts and distribute the blow, since Ive is bigger bellow the surface and takes odd shapes.
Quick note about prop shroud ideas and advice - rest assured I do read all of them. I'll only reply to a number where's there a point in doing so, otherwise I'll be repeating myself to all the similar ones - similar most likely as they are good ideas! Cheers all.
What is your best on the fly guess of what the back end might weigh?
I so appreciate the no-ad factor of this channel. Keep up the good work!
Cheers!
"Being bullied by a cocky drone" This is great 😁
I'm not a naval architec so keep that in mind while veiwing my sugestions. Alan was designed for a one time severe use. The hull should be stiff enough for extended use, but the rudder and nozzle are not up to continued use in ice filled waters. To begin, I would make a pattern to be used for sand casting a full length keel. This keel would straighten out the existing keel so the base of the rudder post could be mounted like a displacement hull normally is. This will protect your propeller. The reason you have a nozzle for your prop thrust is because directing the water flow will help turn the boat. Make a new one from Stainless steel. Increase your rudder size by 100%. Yes 100%. Manuvering through Ice will require quicker sreering responce than the little toy you have now. Replace your bronze prop with a stainless steel 4 blade as you will need good thrust to push ice around and strong blades that are resistant to bending or breaking. Carry the old bronze prop for a spare. I'm really enjoying spending your money but I think these suggestions are practical and will improve the boat's performence. I don't know about the engine horsepower. Make sure it can move all the weight at hull speed at no more than 80% throttle. Are you broke yet? This adventure you are planing sound exciting and challanging. God speed, Dave
I was going to suggest an all around cheaper way of doing that same approximate thing: just sheet steel on either side of the existing "keel" extending down below the level of the propeller shroud pivot, regular structural steel seems fine. Welding a couple of perpendicular protectors to the new keel leading up to the existing fiberglass propeller shroud should push aside anything big enough to damage the shroud.
It depends on his budget for which of those options is better. Casting a whole new keel and having a stainless steel shroud made seems like it would be an order of magnitude more expensive than what I suggested.
Regardless, if there's going to be ice impacts at all, it seems like you need something perpendicular to the keel to divert objects away from the propeller and shroud or they and their linkages have a high chance of being destroyed.
I don't know if they make something to make the propeller break away instead of ruining the shaft and something similar for the rudder/shroud linkages but I'd be worried about those more than the actual propeller and shroud themselves, which can be replaced.
If I remember right its a 45hp diesel engine.
Thanks both of you for this input. I've taken some notes and will share with the engineer I'm consulting with. Cost is always to be a concern more than usual (as I'm no longer sponsor-funded).
Yes it's a 48hp diesel. A few of the horses have liked escaped.
The point that creating something more likely to incur damage and cause chaos, and be hard to repair, is inferior to having a propeller to replace a knackered one is pertinent.
I'm investigating superior props as we speak.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Do you know if it uses hydraulic steering or cable steering or a solid mechanical linkage between the wheel and the rudder?
I only have my fishing boat as an example and it has a two cable system for steering.
If its mechanical steering you could just use something like a 4 wheeler shock absorber in line with the linkage so the whole rudder assembly would have some give to it if struck.
If its hydraulic, you might be able to use a simple fitting somewhere and a rupture disc.
If its cable steering it would be pretty easy to add a shock absorber in there too.
Sorry for giving you even more things to consider. I haven't done any ocean boating, but there's a lot of fishing garbage out there that floats. Getting an old line or something wrapped around the prop can turn the prop shaft seal bearing into a melted, fused lump of plastic.
If you have the spare electricity, a flood light under water and a camera would make for good documentary-making and let you see things that might damage the boat.
I know some people who own narrowboats who have done that for that reason, at least the lighting part.
Hello, thanks for the update on alan. I noticed that the left side black stairs, are metal plates without holes to drain any water, this could be dangerous because it would allow the accumulation of a patina of water that could freeze and make stairs extremely dangerous. Perhaps it would be better to replace them with grids or make holes, in addition these solutions would also increase the grip of the boots.
Good luck and good work
I should perhaps have added that onto this video. The steps have a high grip finish, and in super cold temperatures ice wouldn't form there. During the warmer at sea periods when there's a frost, I'm looking at a solution to bolt on a grating of sorts.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals I imagined you had taken precautions, but I still preferred to communicate it
Thanks for your reply and good evening
I started watching your series like an hour or two ago - and then suddenly a new episode! How coincidental. Nice work!
Great timing chap.
this happened to me with the last episode. i stumbled onto the series a couple hours after the ep release
I literally started yesterday
I love furry "ALLEN" always makes me chuckle
That is some smooth drone operation, respect.
Correct answer.
Awesome work.
Just joined this party working my way through the back catalogue of this conversion story. Love your style.
Thank you!
Fabricate a skid for the rear portion of the keel and have it lead up and connect to the bracket for the nozzle/rudder. A full-length version often used on boat keels is called a keel shoe here in the US. There may be other terminology used in the UK or Europe. Researching these may give some ideas for keel protection outside. I've seen concrete and concrete with steel punchings mixed in used to ballast and strengthen hollow keels. This may be an option for the interior. Good luck. Following with great interest.
Cheers Ben
You already know I had to tap that notification.
I have watched all your videos. You inspired me to start my own channel. It’s been slow moving but I am enjoying the journey. Thank you very much.
Cheers and good luck!
On the propeller area-- I'm no structural engineer, but I do know a thing or two about crushing things. I'd go big with possible supports going all the way to the top and over the roof of the vessel. Doing so to without making it ugly or super heavy is another thing to ponder 🤔
Sounds satisfyingly large and heavy.
1:17 I've spent many hours this morning racking my brain about a skid plate, and I've got a few sketches that would "work" without having to necessarily create new holes, but its not perfect without creating holes, or welding instead of brackets. The premise is to make a metal bracket that wraps the keel (like a "U" shape), and the bottom side tapers towards the back to create a smooth extension to the keel that adds extra depth so its lower than the prop. Then, place a beam on the sterns "porch" if you will just in front of the rear hatch, and another under the boat just above the propeller, and repurpose those 2 bolt slots as its anchor point; then you could box up the sides on the back. Next, using the bolt points just bellow the boats rubber trim, you could bracket a bar on the back 2 or 3 bolt marks that you see just below the port hatch, and bring it all the way back to the "porch" beam for added strength. Now you've got a exterior plank to traverse the ship sides or additionally mount too. Next we need to attach that new side beam thats connect via those 2 or 3 bolts just bellow the black rubber trim, we need to connect it to our bracket on the keel. This might be the hardest part. Youll need to make a cardboard cut out that captures the curve of the ship running up from where our keel bracke meets the hull up high enough to be able to connect bars from the side bar thats connected to those 2 or 3 bolts with an angle bracket, or welded. You could just bend several pipes to match the ship hull curve and run them down to the keel bracket instead to achieve similar results, but a solid metal plate gives you greater surface area to absorb impacts. Now you effectively have enough of a frame to attach metal sheets too in order to shielf the prop from ice. So now that you've got several metal beams going down to and squared off onto the keel and around the propeller, for added strength I highly suggest considering that you run an additional bracket off the bar thats on the bottom 2 bolts, and add another point of contact at the large black metal mounting plate on the stern, but thats your call. Youll want a thick rubber spacer between this entire metal cage and the boat so a great way to source bulk thick strong is by using rubber horse matts to guard against the friction. Lastly, stick on some sufficiently gauged sheet metal around the newly formed cage, and then I'd personally to the math on your added weight vs empty space, tape plastic onto the outside of it to make it water tight long enough to fill the sucker with some marine grade polyurethane foam to maintain proper buoyancy, and wrap it all in fiberglass to protect it from general corrosion, reduce created drag, and make it look nice. Hope this makes sense, if not, you can see my horrible sketches sometime. cheers.
I forgot to mention, in this system, id reuse the bolting points for the white metal bar on the keel as a connecting point for the keel bracket. now you have upwards of 10-12 points of connection to the ship, more if you utilize the stern mounting plate, or attach the "porch" beam to the ship. you don't necessarily have to frame the back either if you think the 2 bolts under the propeller are sufficient.. you see this stuff better than i ever will, i'm sure theres a ton of room for improvement to my idea
This is most kind - back to back today but I promise I'll have a proper read through this and respond.
As promised, I've had a proper read now! Your idea is broadly similar the frame I think can ultimately be constructed, filled and glassed in.
The only point I'd make is there it's not the place for foam - the boat has tons of it, and is lacking ballast, so this is a great opportunity to get some steel in there!
Re the skeg issue; I notice there is an angle in the skeg toward the stern. That could be built up with GRP to make it level with the rest of the skeg. Removing the mettle hanger and prop shrowd and refashioning the rudder could work but would remove some protection for the prop. Increasing the depth of the whole skeg by building it up with GRP would also work. The easiest way of adding ballast is to pour concrete into the hollow skeg. Another common option is to use lead shot. Another option completely would be to add bilge keels on either side of the skeg that Alan can sit on. They would be slightly deeper than the stern gear and could be designed or adapted for Alan to slide on if required. They might reduce the effectiveness of the rudder slightly but that can easily be fixed.
Thanks for this - likely steel over concrete for the ballast (denser).
The sliding motion you identify is central to my thinking.
Nice Video Alex. I hope everything will be fine on your expedition. If I may give you an advice make sure you are able to go aboard from the sea by yourself easily by installing a ladder for example. A swimming platform on the stern is also a good idea
Thanks - yes indeed, a hook ladder for the side hatches for sure.
For the bottom of the stern section, lay a new layer of fibreglass that goes from the middle of the bottom to the sides making it a more ice friendly rounded surface. You will need to add a fair bit of ballast in order to counter the unstable after effects but because you should increase the volume of the boat by doing that you should be able to ha for the extra weight.
This is likely to broadly be the method
How about some struts running athwartship from the keel to the hull somewhere around the stringer location. It would add parasitic drag, but speed isn’t a priority...or “Alan” would look different. Also noted a lot of that external wiring is for lights. There are some lights now that have housings that would let you mount them in the fiberglass and run your wiring internally
Dont know if or how often you would try to leave it on the ice but google bilge keels, quite popular around your neck of woods allows the boat to sit on the twin keels in an upright and stably. If you can get up on the ice you could use it as a camp
For you bow door, maybe something like an observation dome on the front
Bilge keels might be susceptible to ice. And they reduce fuel economy. I think we'll try ballast first, and then see how Alan fares.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals On the ice possibly true, but I live and sail in australia and the pacific, not a lot of ice around here. But the additional drag from the wetted surface area is pretty negliable. If it is a concern you could cut central keel of to reduce drag. Bilge keels have the advantage of better stability, which might be a bonus on the telb as stabilitity was probably not high on the a design specs and might bob around. The biggest disadvantage of bilge keels is that they effect the pointing ability of sailing yachts/ But thats a non issue for you.
I'm looking at your propeller shaft and thinking.... What if you increase the length out from the stern, and modify the shape (a little) at the end of the stern (more wedge like). Then change the prop. You should increase speed markedly. Functionally this could be a life saver around those big floaty steely things(🚢) oh and a huge horn.....
i would suggest some tube section on the stern to protect the prop, kinda like a skidplate but made from pipe... a skid bumper?
that would be fairly unitrusive to waterflow and alow alan to touch ice w/o much risk
For the bottom of the stern make a big stainless steel bit that entergrates into the hull and is filled with ballast
Like something that goes as low as what it is currently but it’s more streamlined and it’s stronger and possibly could make it slightly faster
Cant help thinking some sort of grid to stand on the back of me might be handy, perhaps some of that fibreglass with grit embedded mesh in a stainless frame would be just the ticket for photography etc and besides just standing outside when it's calm enough to do so for morale reasons.
Just being aboard Alan is great for morale!
I just binged the entire series, I love it I hope the boat will work good
Cheers
I just binged the first 8 episodes. Time well spent!
Cheers Jude
I don't see your problem with the prop mount. You have the 4 bolts and the... let's say anchor point for the prop housing shaft.
So you can make a few drawings how triangular you want to have it. I haven't seen the inside, perhaps you can even reinforce the keel so Alan can sit on it, if lifted or if you fall dry.
I would make a template, buy a few cm thick piece of steel plate and go for it.
It would be even possible to realize some kind of triangular foil with it that would help stabilize Alan not just by weight.
It's not an unsurmountable problem - but one that will be a significant structural change, and I want to get right.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals
I would wrap the prop mount with stainless steel. If you change the shape you will change the water flow.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals of course. I have sail life in mind, who glassed the whole inside bottom over.
Man, haven't used my poor stickwelder in the cellar for far too long :(
Thanks for the video.
A small dinghy on the back sounds like a great idea, maybe also somewhere a inflatable lifeboat mounted on the outside.
Is one required to have a lifeboat for a lifeboat...
Alan actually used to have a 4-person valise life raft, but I had to give it away. I'll get another.
wow seems like a dream expedition.
since I was a little kid I have fantasised about that very thing. sorry it didn't work out for you.
Fill the ballast with sea water, it will freeze solid without damaging the fibreglass. If you use something like lead then you would need to make a sand mold the same size to fill it in sections to then put inside your boat which would take a long time but metal against fibreglass might cause damage to the fibreglass.
Water isn't dense enough due to the limited space, and lead I discounted due to cost.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Yeah it's okay, thanks for your reply, I later realized that the water idea might be a bad idea unless you were adding a keel somewhat like a yacht has.
I'm generally interested in sail boats, but this boat is pretty much just a bare shell. It's edifying to watch you work on him.
Delighted to contribute to said edification.
this is an amazing project. good luck with it
A solid ( or at least glass foam glass ) skeg that encompassed the prop tube and joined back further forward up the hull would give the hull a better chance if dragged out onto ice. this obviously would increase drag. but if you were to fill it with lead , could lend to adding a lower weight distribution and increase stability . just an idea id like to throw out.
Two birds with one stone is indeed the plan.
I love these sort of conversion projects, on any sort of vehicle and I am so glad youtube threw this to me a month ago. Keep up the hard work and hope to see you Canada side eventually.
Cheers - in Canada most years - this one has been a sad anomaly so far.
If you find yourself needing to replace your drone, the DJI FPV has less intrusive collision avoidance in normal mode and is disabled entirely in sports and manual modes. The drone is less useful for cinematic video due to having only a single axle gimbal though.
Turns out I had the super-safe setting on!
Using sandable hard-foam (used to make prototypes and custom parts e.g. in the car industry) and fibre lay-up molding, you should be able to create a strong new bottom mount for the propeller shroud.
I would recommend a trapezoidal cross-section that widens towards the top, rounded off at the bottom. Rounding reduces stress concentrations along its surface when exposed to the lateral forces induced by the ice. The trapezoidal shape should result in a net upward force component, reducing the risk hull and mount being pulled apart by the ice.
Use a dedicated bushing for the bottom axle of the shroud though, e.g. bronze, and use it as an insert.
Thanks for this - especially the stress reduction advice.
Way to cool. As i mentioned before, had a friend who lived in Nanisivik wonderful community thats kind have become more and more important again as the canadian military are looking at it as being a gateway station/navel base fro the north west passage.
9:30 On the question of protecting the prop and duct, it looks like that section of keel sweeps up near the stern. How much protection would you get if the keel were straight all the way back?
We've certainly had a lot of feedback that building up that section around the prop shaft housing could aid ice behaviour, protection, and stability. Currently running ideas past marine design guys.
Awesome job ,even answered the problems I could c about the fuel lines ...have u thought about an intercooller for yr engine
At the moment the cooling loop is freshwater, so no need for an external intercooler.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals thanks mate ..cheers
You could get a fiberglass bottom molded and then attach it to the existing hull
FB skin for sure. The bulk and attachment is for debate.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals if you cut access panels in the hull of the existing boat. you might be able to make a support structure out of steel or aluminum and use brackets embedded in the new fiberglass hull to attach it through the frame into the existing hull of Allen. Sand is an easy and cheap ballast that can also be removed or changed. You could also use concrete as a more permanent solution. You could even make part of the extension into a fuel tank further moving the center of gravity down.
hello me again I didnt know you planned to leave her in ice so a couple thoughts maybe reinforce the hull in some way so she has a better chance of survival ? Also I keep thinking about how your ducted prop could be an issue with ice getting stuck in it and shearing a pin on the prop or driveshaft would not be welcome, and in the situation you described hauling it up on the ice it may damage the rudder post of it tries supporting its weight on the side of ducted nozzel it may cause damage. Sorry no good answers for you just some thoughts as a sailor.
The best tactic with polar hulls (i.e. Fram and not Endurance) is to have a shape that allows for the structure to rise up amongst ice and not be crushed. It can then sit atop - whether helped by winches or not. This is the only real option for non-ice rated metal hull.
Alex Hibbert Originals agreed , I’m unsure if she came with all the required solas gear but for the love of god bring a sea anchor
About your stern conundrum: I initially thought about filling that void with the "potting" material used for encapsulating high voltage, high frequency circuitry components. It's extremely dense and fairly heavy. And it's virtually indestructible. But it's also very expensive. And it generates a fair amount of heat as it cures. That's a pretty large space to fill. Also, not knowing how well the unit is supported structurally could be a worry with this weight. My thinking on such things tend to become insanely elaborate before I start to whittle away the ridiculous and slowly unravel it to reveal a simpler solution. Hoping my thought sparks your far more logical mind in some way...
I don't think the structure will worry about 50kg of ballast. Most likely using steel.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Pellets? Encapsulated at the top? Anyway, glad 50kg is no problem-- so I guess the volume of space isn't as large as I assumed. (Really hard to gauge with no reference in a video).
Hmm, what about lead shot and epoxy?
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Flex seal could work, along with some weights
Your love for the angel grinder reminds me of Martin from the channel Wintergatan
You sure are asking alot out of her um him, Alan!!.
The safest imo is to switch propeller size and engine if needed to accommodate. I would also strengthen and fill keel.
The cheapest would be to remove the prop etc, when you want to beach but that sounds horrible. You still will need to strengthen keel no matter what. Extending the keel that much would be wild. Beaching=crashing onto its side. Maybe inflatable bags to stabilize. Alot of weight though. Winch or full throttle?
What about filling in the aft keel void with mixture of cement and lead? It’ll add substantial weight, fill the void so it won’t be susceptible to being crush by ice
Steel most likely - denser than concrete, and cheaper/greener than lead.
RE: Propeller/rudder protection. Without major modifications to the hull your best hope is to...hope.
I enjoy the videos and wish you good luck.
Your faith is touching, Ben
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Apologies for being glib. Alan ain't going to sink so propulsion/steering are mere technicalities :-)
I’d be very hesitant to make the minuscule skeg even more thick and rounded, at least not without adding a retractable centreboard of some sort. On that note, a retractable centreboard (or two) is probably a rather good idea anyhow. You likely won’t want to punch a slot in the bottom of the vessel, but it’s certainly an option to make one that hinges forward or backward, or even to one side or another. How to reliably swing it without getting hypothermia is an exercise left to the reader.
Twin rigid bilge-keels that the ship can sit on is also an option, and would leave it significantly more stable if you want to camp inside it while it’s on the ice. But a fair bit of work to fibreglass them up from scratch, compared to a couple pieces of painted ply screwed to some aluminium square section.
Keel addition is a big debate at the moment. Any keel will be susceptible to ice. The structure on which to mount foldable side keels would be pretty substantial in itself.
The algorithm brought me here; I would have never found this otherwise. Subbed, and looking forward to more.
Cheers
What are you going to use the solar panel for? There's no sun above arctic circle during the winter time. :D
Alan is going to be used in other seasons too. By the way that's not strictly true. Above the Arctic Circle there is still sun in the winter season, reducing as you go north. Unless you define the winter as the sun not rising. Which you could.
Maybe go to the wrecking yard and pull out the unused airbags from several vehicles. Fasten them around the area to be protected and, before you winch it up on the ice, inflate the airbags. Practically no money spent. Perfect solution. Cheers😁
What about a tube welded frame that wraps around the rear of the (ballast?) So it prevents scraping yet is a more durable to set on ice and more flat then whats currently there? I'm curious how you'll problem solve that.
Or a reinforcement of plates. But that would add more weight then a frame like the top section has.
Thanks for uploading!
Cheers
How about spray on polyurethane closed cell foam that is applied over lead and fiberglass reenforced and shaped to protect the drive?
Foam would counteract the ballast efforts, but steel/lead encased in FB: sure.
It would be probably quite expensive but you could cover the whole keel in a welded stainless plate frame that would extend it downward and back to the propeller
I think I'd need a million subscribers, all of them making donations!
Make the blade area vertical steel bar., My be that will use to control the ice , and safe your blade area
Could you fill that section with something like a foam, or even some sort of cement, to add some structure as well as some ballast?
Not foam or concrete - not dense enough. But ballast yes.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals mix a foam or other substrate with lead shot then?
I excited to see what you do! thank you for sharing
I find it unfortunate that highly motivated and capable explorers like you have to invest so much of your time and energy into fundraising and sponsorship rather than being able to devote those assets to the project itself!
I realize that fundraising and sponsorship are vital as few are fortunate enough to be in the position of being able to fund such expeditions on their own!
How unfortunate that there were no polar equipped TELB's available as this presumably would have saved considerable time, efforts and expense!
You inspire confidence in projects in which you are involved and I have no doubt whatsoever that Alan will be perfect for your intended missions by the time you're through.
You mentioned that the Helm position window collected rainwater, may I suggest a product called 'Rainex' which causes liquid to run off rather than to sit or pool.
It worked great on my motorcycle helmet visor, mirrors, lights and instruments and on my car windows, mirrors and lights.
The funding and selling (not my forte) is the nature of the business sadly!
Regarding the nozzle support. It’s hard to tell 100% because it’s a video and not in person. That being said the existing support could be modified in a wedge shape configuration the goes forward more to the point just aft of where the keel is sitting on a block. Have a flat bottom fashioned with plate of steel the same width as the flat plate steel that supports the bottom of the nozzle. Basically copying the current design and extending it forward to that point mentioned. The metal is plenty thick enough to support the boat and if you fill in that gap then it will be a smooth transition from the fiberglass keel to the modified support.
I’d have a welder visit the boat yard with the piece still attached to the boat. That we he can take all the proper measurements it it ends up correct on the first go.
After its dabbed up I’d bring it back, test fit and drill the additional mounting holes in the steel before you have it galvanized. Keep in mind that you’ll need to ever so slightly over size the holes because galvanizing adds thickness to the material and will make the holes smaller.
Thanks Jeremy. There's a question mark over having the nozzle removed, prop changed up and a larger rudder added. Your structural process for the shape change seems sound.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals having a nozzle around your prop makes them far more efficient. And it’s also a good idea if you’ll be around ice. If you are looking for more thrust from your prop you can ask a prop shop about adding some pitch to yours by cupping the blade tips. This is like having a prop with more degrees and will provide more thrust at the same RPM. Cupping is a cheaper solution then buying a new prop. You just need to make sure you stay within your horse power limits or you’ll over work your engine. Take your engine specs with you to the prop shop.
I would suggest a sea trail loaded with the desired amount of weight that your gear will take up for your excursions. See what your RPM is at top speed.
Great work so far. My advice is meant with respect. I hope it helps.
Cheers,
Jeremy K
19 year Journeyman Diesel Mechanic
I was wondering if an Icebreaker installation of this vessel would be OK? Just a thought.
You would like me to make Alan into an icebreaker?
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Just an ice breaker in front in case of navigation through icy waters? Like I said just a thought nothing more.
Icebreaker generally work by using massive weight to crush ice under the bow, or using huge ice churning engine pods. Alan sadly lacks both!
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Thank you for the understanding. I've been educated a little more.
Well, you have an amazing platform. Why not put a walkway around the boat. You can even fold it up so it is out of the way but easily move around the boat when down. Would also make it easier to get on and off the boat.
I considered it, but it's not really necessary, and would mean a lot of structural work into blind insulated sections. Access to the bow and stern platforms, and the deck, is pretty simple.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Fair enough, was just thinking for your ease of use with all that gear you will be needing out in that cold environment.
But you know what you need!
@@Drakior Yep all sorts of things to consider, but can't install them all :)
Are you set on a 2k paint? I've had tremendous success using Interlux Pre-Kote primer followed by lightly thinned Interlux Brightside topside paint. I did the roll & tip method and you'd swear it was sprayed. Some good videos on YT demonstrating it's use. Just a thought.
'Fraid so. Need it super tough, and not so held up on the finish quality, within reason. The surface of TELBs is nothing like a smart yacht's!
Don't think of it as a swim platform. Think of it as an easy way to climb back aboard after a man overboard situation. It would allow multiple people to safely stand on the back of the boat and help haul someone aboard quickly. A teak swim deck.....(I mean a safety platform)… would also lower your insurance rates?
Insuring these boats is a nightmare already sadly. But yes a grating extension to the stern is possible. Drop ladders out of side hatches would be better for picking up swimmers, as away from the prop.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals I was more looking for an excuse to allow you a swim deck. Tongue and cheek.
Awe, your orginal route to the Canadian/alaskan coast would have had you drive right past my house.
Such a shame on many levels, most of which this one.
Greetings! Any quotes in yet to ship Alan to Canada? I'm toying with a lifeboat project to use for the canals as well as fjords in Europe and curious about the rough cost of transport from N.A. and the U.K. Cheers!
RoRo quotes were about $10k - but lots of variables.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Cheese and crackers! 😝 Copy that, thank you.
I just started reading POLAR ESKIMO, and your Episode just gave some more context about the dark Ice project. I am sorry Covid turned your plans upside down! It had some crazy impact on all our plans. The concept of freezing Alan in the ice also reminded me of Fritjof Nansen’s Fram. Will Alan’s hull shape allow the ice to push the boat up out of the ice?.
Thank you Julius!
Yes indeed, Fram was a marvel, and Alan is taking after her.
Would it be bad to attach some steel to the bottom of it? Something triangular is always best then because that seems to be the strongest shape (I think)
Have you thought about constructing something to capture Rainwater?
Not at present
1:47 that boat next to you is called Teresa May... I know it's spelt differently but that's odd.
Owned by a very friendly old chap.
without moneytisation and u are at 100k views, mad respect, with it polly u have better outreach with the algorithm gods
Thanks. I did run totally ad free until UA-cam started adding them regardless. I've now switched on ads for some videos.
I am watching the videos as your interesting and yes I want to know about the conversion. I want to convert my own lifeboat when I get one, and this will help with that by giving me Ideas. I was going to ask why do you need Alan. But now why not have someone come get her when you plan to leave him cocooned in the ice and have that person drive the boat to Alaska or to a Canadian Port?
The boat would be locked into the ice pack, unable to move until released in the open water again.
@alex, why not fit a shallow dome window on the outside of the front hatch?
create a metal keel in the shape you need to "slip over" the entire keel and thru bolt it. this should give you the protection for the fiberglass from the ice and weight you need for ballast. thru bolted for maintenance and adjustments in design, when happy , seal the crap out of the bolt thru spots
Yeah this is my current working plan. Quite a job to get right.
You could put Skids on it to take the force away from that prop
Thanks for the input on your business and the outside view of alan. I know luxury is not your big concern but will you add windows to the hull?
Probably not - there's actually plenty of life inside, and I don't want to compromise the structure or insulation much more.
I would be tempted to contact UA-camr "boat works today" for some advice on the renforcing the keyl. He exclusively works withe fiber glass boats, repairs and alterations, he may have some good ideas and advice on what products you may require !
Yep I'm familiar with that channel. I also have some expert friends from the composites industry, so will collate all the best info! Stay tuned.
Of course you had easy composites make the sleds for the expedition, I was wondering where I had seen you before!
Sounds like you need to build a full length snow sled built under the boat while you have it up on dry dock and that way you can use it on snow or water kind of like a 4 wheel drive vehicle is at home in the mud. I bet you could even rig an outboard snow wheel at the back to propel the boat on ice and snow that rises and lowers when needed. Just be sure to outfit your boat with a powerful electric boat motor so when the TESLA wireless power gets up and running in a decade or so your boat can operate on free electricity with an unlimited range. Image traveling around the world with only an electric boat motor that runs to infinity and beyond.
Fantastic mate.
ALAN = Approved Lifeboat converted for Artic Navigation.
Alan is very much wanted - not abandoned.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals I was eluding to it previous state, before it came into your possession. I have since changed it to Approved.
Can't you add something like a torpedo belt around it ??
AMAZINGNES!!! And....ALAN!!!!!
Have you looked at Aerogel insulation?
I've not
@@AlexHibbertOriginals you should. It has a r value of 20+
Alan! We laughed out loud
have you considered the next paint job to be more red than orange?
Not really
@@AlexHibbertOriginals well I thought it looked more like the jackets you were wearing so it could be another good sponsor placement idea.
also I could so see the Allan groundhog or whatever it is painted on the side xD
@@jacopomazzoni Ah I see - yeah those jackets were only prototypes. Generally sponsors have colour scheme rules, so would require a section painted to their background colour, or they'd pay for a whole repaint.
@@jacopomazzoni A more talented painter than me perhaps :)
You should add starlink internet so you can film your trip
I don't think Starlink will work for high latitudes, at least at first.
I am wise and discerning!!
Yes, yes, but what did the boat cost?
so how much did alan cost?
a metal roil sis-tom grad and build in to a standing back locker to top
you keep saying alan isn't a pleasure craft but, what then, is the purpose of travelling to the arctic
This isn't related to Ben g Thomas is it?
What drone do you use?
Mavic Air 2
wait so you are going to leave Alan and let her float around for a couple years and then pick it up?
This was part of the previous plan. Alan wouldn't be floating around - there's a pretty reliable ice drift and then with multiple trackers on board, we could quickly intercept once freed into the north of the North Atlantic - where shipping is minimal.
If you ask the Soviets nicely I'm sure they would loan you a small RTG, making solar power unnecessary ;)
Warm green glow optional.
Are any of your books on Audible?
Sadly not at the moment - sounds like there's a demand though!
@@AlexHibbertOriginals let me know when you get some and I'll buy them
I got curious, so I google-fu'd these things. I can see why they get bought for houseboat conversion, costs less then a used houseboat and laughs at foul weather that'd flip a sail yacht... Huh, Allen is a very neat vessel, and seems to be uniquely well suited for the role of mobile arctic base-station.
This thing runs off of raw petroleum, not gasoline?
Diesel engine on the boat
Welcome to the hysterical confusion between gas, gasoline, petrol and petroleum in the US/Can, the UK, and continental Europe....
Oh, do you expect the diesel to cause problems in such cold temps? I didn't think they ran too well after -10C to -15C.
@@Mithraschosen there is special winter diesel available that is good for atleast -30C° and as its stored inside the boat its unlikely it will get anywhere near freezing during use so there are multiple options that he can make sure it wont cause trouble
The latter point is right here - ours would be stored at room temperature. But yes, you can get additives to get diesel to stop gelling at low temp. The old trick used to be adding kerosene, but that's a power reducing, smelly mistake.
Any colour decisions maybe blue of white
Blue too camouflaged, and white marks too easily (and attracts flies apparently).
@@AlexHibbertOriginals good point
Yeeeeer sur 🍻🍻🍻🍻