We are just working on a couple of British built Farmall's. One is a BMD and the other is a Super BMD. The back end is all the same as the American counterparts. Me and Pop have found your videos very helpful with all the seals and bearings references you quote. I do our machining, i wish i had time to make more and better quality videos. But there just isn't enough hours in my day.
@@andrewklahold2880 I think you mean THRESHING machine. I really don't think this channel is into: thrashing 1. beat (a person or animal) repeatedly and violently with a stick or whip. "she thrashed him across the head and shoulders"
The dude has never used the belt drive, and may never ... yet he he went to considerable trouble to restore the worn shaft :) I gotta think a good many owner/operators (under the circumstances) would have slapped her back together as-is🤣 As per usual, Squatch not taking any short cuts. Great stuff! And again, thanks for the must-see content! 👍👍👍
Bob Crone I'll be in the same boat, even though I do not use the belt pulley drive on my M, it leaks oil while the he gears below are spinning. I am also not interested in deleting it.
Squatch253 Oh I hope y’all will leave the loader off the M, too... just for selfish esthetics reasons :) She’s gonna he a beauty! Plus y’all have the new utility tractor...so... On related note, I follow a Ag channel from NY and the guy has an MD. I’d never seen one of them. Interesting machine. Thx for the content Toby!
Your videos are always so satisfying to watch, its almost like mechanical asmr The attention to detail and methodical way of working is just perfect, not to mention your skill level with machining! Hats off to you Squatch, keep the content coming
Love watching the precision work on the Lathe have been gettin tuition on Lathe work from an engineer lately an there's so much that can go wrong 🙄☹️ great video 👍
there was a guy in southern il who had a portable belt driven sawmill that would handle up to 10ft logs 24 inches in diameter he used a Farmall M on distillate to move it to site and power it he also had a quick detachable buzz saw on the front and a hydraulic log skidder lift on a 3pt hitch.. he made good living with his setup selling rough cut lumber and firewood and re\\tree removal
You likely already know this,but there is a specially shaped chisel that was used back in the day specifically for cutting lube grooves. I think it was a variation on a cape chisel. Can't remember the particular name,but 5 minutes work on the gargler should lead you to something that will work. Never used one myself,always wondered just how the old-timers handled them. Another lost art,I suppose.
Excellent progress on the M. When completed it will be as good as new. Great work on documenting the steps and progress along the way by you and Senior.
Thank you for the video.Appreciate the two tricks I caught on this video.Spinning the housing to keep from damaging the seal and using the bolts and a hammer to seat the o-ring.
6.7 egr coolers...since you brought it up...the 6.7 ford has the best designed emissions system I have seen. It really does work well, i work on these trucks daily. 260k and 10k hours on my f550 only failure so far has been a doser valve, and def tank heater. I know you dislike the technology, but what ford did with the 6.7 is amazing. You gotta admit using 2 radiators and putting the exhaust manifold in the top of the head ls was clever. I still love the 6.0, seams easy to work on now...
Replace both radiator on a 6.7 and thought they were easy. Cant say I have struggled with any fasteners on them. Radiator seem to be the weak spot, but more are replaced due to accidents then failure.
You commented about there being a better tool for making oil distribution grooves than a dremel... I watch a very experienced and well versed machinist here on UA-cam by the name Keith Rucker and he has done the very same thing with a dremel several times. Most recently he did it on a very old metal planer where he added an oiling system to the ways. There may very well be a specific tool for this but what you've done is completely acceptable
The oiling system explains how the grit got into the bushing and ground it out. Your exterior groove may help by giving a possible escape route for the grit to escape rather that remain and just build up.
A trick you can do to hold the sims in place is to tie them with a piece of tread it will be good to hold them and not big enough to cause problems to bolt everything together
To cut those radius grooves on the ID you would need a full radius undercut tool for the lathe and about a .500" per rev feed rate. Think of it more like broaching but with the part rotating. I'm a CNC guy so if I was to do it I'd use a threading routine at a very low RPM. Not sure if your manual lathe is capable of an RPM low enough and a feed per revolution high enough. I guess you need a CNC lathe now! ;)
You do things properly with attention to detail. I think the key is you take your time and do it right rather than the usual in a hurry just get it done philosophy.
Installing scrolls is easy. Before you do your finishing cut. Engage dead slow on the chuck and then set a tool for a 20 thou cut with a thread cutting tool. Brutally wind the saddle towards the chuck and the reverse smartly. That’s it. Then finish to size. Not a sophisticated process. Drill your oil hole after the scroll when you know you will pick up on the internal scroll. Alan in London
Hey that was neat! make me think about belt drive on our Super H and 450 Diesel they have run 1000's of hours driving mounted corn picker, silo blower, irrigation pumps, buzz saw, Have you seen 4 wheel drive axles that on 560's 450,M's it was after market kit, power for FWD gear box came from the pulley mount port it had a large roller chain to attach to transmission main shaft. they used WW2 2 1/2 ton truck front axle
@@neilshep50 yeah and that trough has to hold oil there is only about one 3rd of the gear in the oil and the gear throws the oil up there so when the pulley drive isnt being used oil will run out and it would basically dry started each time how long till the gear slings the right amount of oil
2095: Someone messed with this bushing and put the oil hole in the top! Helper: Yup it is supposed to be on the bottom to prevent clogging. 2095: Looks the the bushing was bored a bit large. 0.003" is ideal. Helper: Damn.
If the pulley drive is disengaged, there may be little to no 'splash oil' up to the top of the housing and into the 'gutter', to feed the bushing. Engaging the pulley even for a few seconds on each use, may well ensure that it gets sufficient oil.
I’m liking to get a lathe for my shop what do you suggest for the one y’all youse the most on a size at these and I came back to this video because I get to re do my belt pulley drive now lol
A late question, 17:00 - 28:00 the bushing shown, is it NOT Drilled out for the oil hole, or my old eyes playing tricks..?.? Oh, 4:00 it's on the other side...
@@ruben_balea I'm not worrying. Not my tractor. :P Squatch knows what he's doing, I shouldn't doubt him though I typically do tighter bushing fits regardless of lubrication.
We are just working on a couple of British built Farmall's. One is a BMD and the other is a Super BMD.
The back end is all the same as the American counterparts. Me and Pop have found your videos very helpful with all the seals and bearings references you quote. I do our machining, i wish i had time to make more and better quality videos. But there just isn't enough hours in my day.
Love the attention to detail. Of course, with a properly working belt drive, you'll now have to restore something to run with it!
For sure a thrashing machine
@@andrewklahold2880 I think you mean THRESHING machine. I really don't think this channel is into:
thrashing
1.
beat (a person or animal) repeatedly and violently with a stick or whip.
"she thrashed him across the head and shoulders"
Yes threshing that is what spell correct put up i knew that i was off by a letter out two ty
@@squatch253 Now that sounds like an epic video coming. I look forward to it :)
You would be a wonderful teacher/instructor. Thank you for sharing.
The dude has never used the belt drive, and may never ... yet he he went to considerable trouble to restore the worn shaft :) I gotta think a good many owner/operators (under the circumstances) would have slapped her back together as-is🤣
As per usual, Squatch not taking any short cuts.
Great stuff! And again, thanks for the must-see content!
👍👍👍
Bob Crone I'll be in the same boat, even though I do not use the belt pulley drive on my M, it leaks oil while the he gears below are spinning. I am also not interested in deleting it.
Squatch253 Oh I hope y’all will leave the loader off the M, too... just for selfish esthetics reasons :) She’s gonna he a beauty! Plus y’all have the new utility tractor...so... On related note, I follow a Ag channel from NY and the guy has an MD. I’d never seen one of them. Interesting machine. Thx for the content Toby!
Your videos are always so satisfying to watch, its almost like mechanical asmr
The attention to detail and methodical way of working is just perfect, not to mention your skill level with machining!
Hats off to you Squatch, keep the content coming
I thank you once again
For letting me enjoy these classroom sessions I love it
Love watching the precision work on the Lathe have been gettin tuition on Lathe work from an engineer lately an there's so much that can go wrong 🙄☹️ great video 👍
there was a guy in southern il who had a portable belt driven sawmill that would handle up to 10ft logs 24 inches in diameter he used a Farmall M on distillate to move it to site and power it
he also had a quick detachable buzz saw on the front and a hydraulic log skidder lift on a 3pt hitch.. he made good living with his setup selling rough cut lumber and firewood and re\\tree removal
You likely already know this,but there is a specially shaped chisel that was used back in the day specifically for cutting lube grooves. I think it was a variation on a cape chisel. Can't remember the particular name,but 5 minutes work on the gargler should lead you to something that will work.
Never used one myself,always wondered just how the old-timers handled them. Another lost art,I suppose.
Excellent progress on the M. When completed it will be as good as new. Great work on documenting the steps and progress along the way by you and Senior.
Thank you for the video.Appreciate the two tricks I caught on this video.Spinning the housing to keep from damaging the seal and using the bolts and a hammer to seat the o-ring.
6.7 egr coolers...since you brought it up...the 6.7 ford has the best designed emissions system I have seen. It really does work well, i work on these trucks daily. 260k and 10k hours on my f550 only failure so far has been a doser valve, and def tank heater. I know you dislike the technology, but what ford did with the 6.7 is amazing. You gotta admit using 2 radiators and putting the exhaust manifold in the top of the head ls was clever.
I still love the 6.0, seams easy to work on now...
Until you have to replace that pipe to that little rad/cooler and cannot get at the bolt on top of the manifold.
Replace both radiator on a 6.7 and thought they were easy. Cant say I have struggled with any fasteners on them. Radiator seem to be the weak spot, but more are replaced due to accidents then failure.
True mark of craftsmanship, you make it look easy.
You commented about there being a better tool for making oil distribution grooves than a dremel... I watch a very experienced and well versed machinist here on UA-cam by the name Keith Rucker and he has done the very same thing with a dremel several times. Most recently he did it on a very old metal planer where he added an oiling system to the ways. There may very well be a specific tool for this but what you've done is completely acceptable
Always nice when you get things going back together.
Some nice angles on that lathe! Never wanted one until I watched you and your dad use them.
You turn out some quality wotk it's good to see someone who knows what they are doing. Well keep up the good work
If nothing else you averted a metal shaving and rattle maker in the gear box whether you use it or not. Great work!!!!
Slick repair to that shaft and bushing. And yes you will be using that pulley with confidence. :-)
The oiling system explains how the grit got into the bushing and ground it out. Your exterior groove may help by giving a possible escape route for the grit to escape rather that remain and just build up.
Good video Toby, thanks for taking us along!
When I Watch Wes Work, 11:00 he uses Syl-Glyde grease on his O rings to provide a Slicery surface, reduce o ring pinching.?
Very satisfying knowing it's right
Looks really good. Great video .
A trick you can do to hold the sims in place is to tie them with a piece of tread it will be good to hold them and not big enough to cause problems to bolt everything together
I can hear the tick from the lacing on the belt going around
Always a pleasure to watch your videos!
That's a lovely old lathe. BobUK.
To cut those radius grooves on the ID you would need a full radius undercut tool for the lathe and about a .500" per rev feed rate. Think of it more like broaching but with the part rotating. I'm a CNC guy so if I was to do it I'd use a threading routine at a very low RPM. Not sure if your manual lathe is capable of an RPM low enough and a feed per revolution high enough. I guess you need a CNC lathe now! ;)
You do things properly with attention to detail. I think the key is you take your time and do it right rather than the usual in a hurry just get it done philosophy.
Quality work it looks real nice you do good work
Installing scrolls is easy. Before you do your finishing cut. Engage dead slow on the chuck and then set a tool for a 20 thou cut with a thread cutting tool. Brutally wind the saddle towards the chuck and the reverse smartly.
That’s it.
Then finish to size. Not a sophisticated process. Drill your oil hole after the scroll when you know you will pick up on the internal scroll.
Alan in London
You could use a belt-driven circle saw with that belt drive, process a bunch of firewood in a short time.
@@squatch253 well, having more than one implement mounted up at a time is not a bad thing! 👍
Hey that was neat! make me think about belt drive on our Super H and 450 Diesel they have run 1000's of hours driving mounted corn picker, silo blower, irrigation pumps, buzz saw,
Have you seen 4 wheel drive axles that on 560's 450,M's it was after market kit, power for FWD gear box came from the pulley mount port it had a large roller chain to attach to transmission main shaft. they used WW2 2 1/2 ton truck front axle
I would plug that drill hole with a treaded plug to help hold more oil on that bushing special after grooving the out side
Good point, the original bushing blocked off that hole.
@@neilshep50 yeah and that trough has to hold oil there is only about one 3rd of the gear in the oil and the gear throws the oil up there so when the pulley drive isnt being used oil will run out and it would basically dry started each time how long till the gear slings the right amount of oil
2095: Someone messed with this bushing and put the oil hole in the top!
Helper: Yup it is supposed to be on the bottom to prevent clogging.
2095: Looks the the bushing was bored a bit large. 0.003" is ideal.
Helper: Damn.
If the pulley drive is disengaged, there may be little to no 'splash oil' up to the top of the housing and into the 'gutter', to feed the bushing. Engaging the pulley even for a few seconds on each use, may well ensure that it gets sufficient oil.
That's a sweet little lathe.
Nice machining work. It fits nice.
Can't wait for the next video, better than a movie or the teli, keep them coming Squatch Snr and 253.
Thanks for another great informative video
your camera mount is back!👍
the deeper you dive, the deeper you dive!
P
3:43 use the lathe's threading function with a round profile cutter.
I’m liking to get a lathe for my shop what do you suggest for the one y’all youse the most on a size at these and I came back to this video because I get to re do my belt pulley drive now lol
Grandpa knew what he was doing
Squatch, you are going to need the belt drive for when you restore a Holt 60 for winter starting.
Is the belt drive assembly the same for an H? Just wondering for the seals. Thanks for such a detailed rebuild..
Have made the oil grooves and I used a lathe that had a 1 inch pitch. Most lathes don’t have that.
Was there an expansion plug in the housing casting where the bushing is? I can't tell in the video. Full watch and thumbs up!
@@squatch253 Sorry, no big deal. Is it a cup or a welch plug?
Doesn't that shaft you turned down need to be hardened? Did you polish it with emery cloth?
Heck yea powers out and raining and I get a Squatch video!!!!!
Any concerns for those bearings. Appears it went together dry.
They are fine even if they were dry.
nice work thanks for the video
You forgot to mention that you'll need to add gear oil to it. Many people think that the whole assembly gets oiled by the transmission.
Will turning down the shaft effect the durability of it or will adding a larger/thicker bushing add to it?
I want to find out if your dad or you could show us a rebuild on the mag for the cat d2 when the time comes thanks 😊 and god bless
A late question, 17:00 - 28:00 the bushing shown, is it NOT Drilled out for the oil hole, or my old eyes playing tricks..?.? Oh, 4:00 it's on the other side...
Do you use o-ring lube, when you assemble your parts?
.... A tool which makes rifling in a gun barrel?
Are you in northern Mn ?
Better than original .😊👍👍👍🍵🍵🍵☕☕🌎🌞
Any update on 1113? Just waiting to send the pony block to the machine shop still?
Good video
5 thou is a lot of clearance. I'd have shot for more like 1.
@@ruben_balea I'm not worrying. Not my tractor. :P Squatch knows what he's doing, I shouldn't doubt him though I typically do tighter bushing fits regardless of lubrication.
Final clearance was under 5 after installation.
@@ruben_balea 0.003 would have been ideal I think.
Are you the only one in your family who really likes antique equipment besides your father
@@squatch253 I grew up on farm we did all are own repairs, but I never had to open up pulley drive. I learn a lot from your videos,
Tik.. tik ... tik ...🤣🤣👌🏻
didnt catch what lube you run in it
👍🏻
You just had to ruin a good video by bringing up a 6.7 didn't you,lol....just kidding,I hate those 6.7's but I love the old stuff just like you👍
sounded like there is total happiness with your Kubota so you may not put the loader back on
Drive a belt drive rock crusher for all your rocks.
For grooves in bushings, see: absolutemachine.com/rifling-machines/
Cause the oil will just run out in stead of holding oil there
there is no oil hole in the bronze bushing @0:22
ah ok never mind my bad
drainage hole
👍