I'd drill about 4-5 , 1" - 1.5" holes in the pulley to lighten it up a bit. Make it more of a spoked looking pulley like the others! Still looks great, And Have a awesome day, seriously, i mean it 🎉
Keith, You are at the home stretch of the longest project I have ever seen you accomplish. I have lost track of how many parts you have had to make! At least 62 videos!
Dear Keith, I'm happy for you getting close to be able toput this piece of history to work. I got tears laughing at your voice at six times the speed, hilarious mate. Thanks for another swell episode, take care.
Congratulations on the completion of this project. I’ve watched every step of this restoration and the fit and finish is nothing short of perfection. Thanks for a great series of videos on this machine, and I’m looking forward to your next project. Top work Keith.
Loved the video. I saw a planer at Illinois Railway Museum that had to be disassembled into 3 pieces to fit a semi for transport. Your comment about chips hitting you in the face reminded me of the time I was making a frame for a live steam locomotive on a 22 inch Davis & Eagan shaper. I learned not to stand in front of the shaper wearing a short sleeve shirt.
Thank you for another informative, educational, historical and entertaining video. Thanks to you and your colleagues for keeping the machinery period correct. All the best.
Dunno that it works that well, i mean, sure, for his application that's not gonna "pull a mountain", but generally you want cast holes, rather than making them yourself. At the very least, two out of three pulleys i've made by reproducing OG ones broke after a while, because the spokes cracked. But that's my experience.
Awesome! Lightening holes would look good and help with the weight on the big Ole pully on the little shaft. Milled spokes would be really cool but I'm sure you want to get to making chips.
Watch Dave Richards and the Old Steam Powered Machine Shop. You will see an entire shop run by a steam engine with the old time overhead belt drive. The point here is that you will notice there is nothing "tight" about the belts. Friction does the work.
I’m dying to see this thing run ever since your shop tour series that had the one Ga tech had made in the 40s I’ve been looking for one preferably one much smaller like a 24x48 or so but I wouldn’t knock anything I could find so long as i could get it lol
Getting close for sure. An added benefit to a flat belt is if you used a solid v-belt, the whole jack shaft would need to come apart to change the belt. On the flat belt, just pull the pin on the lacing.
When you were crowning it, you could've blued it up with a Sharpie, then scribed a line in the middle, so you would know when the taper reached the halfway mark.
I have some round carbides that might have hogged out the reliefs on cast. The bonus is the radius at each end. I totally agree with the no-holes decision.
The correct tool to use on that application is a "face grooving tool". It's made so you can plunge into a face with the correct radiused relief on it. I used to call it a "trepanning tool". You can buy them commercially or you can grind your own. Making only one part it would pay to make your own. You can look at the tool by doing a Google search for face grooving tool
In the first clamping I would have turned the cylindrical outer diameter almost completely, turned the side and bore the inside. The second clamping was done on the outer surface and almost finished on the outside, as well as turned the side. Then I would have arched the outside surface when it was on the clamping device in the bore with light passes. Now you can no longer see that I have pre-turned the outside in two clamps and the outside diameter runs true to the bore.
Why do you feel anyone cares how you would do it? Do you think you have the only and perfect way to do it? If so, start making videos and posting, so those of us ignorant lowlifes can raise up to your level.
Almost ready ! I don't know that you have EVER talked about balancing pulleys, but static balancing (which really helps) can be done with a round shaft, a set of sawhorses, and a pair of homemade knife edges. Since this part was made with dura-bar, I was wondering if it be more likely to naturally balance than would cast iron ?
If you grow avocados use the chips around the tree roots for bigger and better tasting avos. Used to pound six inch nails into the trunk every year in Zambia. In six months you could snap them off with your fingers. Trees loved the iron and rewarded with awesome fruit.
I cannot wait to see that thing in action .... working on that coal stoker engine thats been waiting for that thing to get to working. I'm hoping its a double feature.
Thanks Keith for your informative videos. I have one question on making the pulley. Wouldn't it have been better to have turned the first face, bore and crown the outer diameter in the "block" first and then switched to the 4 jaw, dial the outer diameter in, then face off the surplus material and finish the second face. That way the outer diameter and bore would be concentric and you wouldn't need the mandrel and it's questionable grip to turn the outside surfaces. Not a criticism just an observation. Regards from Canada's banana belt 👍🇨🇦🤞.
Can't remember if when there are no tolerances given on a drawing, what is the "safe to assume" lee way you are allowed? -Or if it's shown as a fraction on the drawing. Very nice work Keith. As (I) get older i try to keep in practice by going for real close to size. There are some really cool jobs you can do with a restored Metal Planer. (With good measuring instruments). Again really cool Machine there and thanks for the Videos.
Sometimes they'll use the number of digits after the decimal place to tell you, e.g. for a 0.30" feature you could probably accept 0.295" to 0.305", whereas a 0.300" feature probably wants to be between 0.299" and 0.301". There are also standard tolerances on a lot of things like gears and bearings. Otherwise it's a bit up to your own intuition, clearly you need tighter tolerances on a locating pin for a precision mechanism than you do on the OD of a V-belt pulley.
19:20 Not taking too deep a cut to avoid stalling the work.... Here's my suggestion: having made the mandrel & threaded it, use either a spring washer or a star washer rather than a big flat washer and put some lube on the thread before fitting the nut and nip up. All being well then, if the part slows or stops turning on the mandrel, it'll automatically tighten the nut to the point it doesn't slip any more !
On your next video, could you cover calculating the length of each belt and how much contact they will have on each of the pulleys? Working to spec's is one thing but figuring them out is something else. Maybe it's in the Machinery Handbook, but I've never had cause to make any flat belts...
It IS in MH. I used to do belt and chain drive calculations a LOT in my days in the Mill Supply business. Once you have the pulley diameters and the center distance the belt length is easy. Plus I'm sure Keith has designed in a little adjustment to compensate for belt wear, although this machine won't see daily use for 100 years... ;)
Well done on the pulley. (I might have put some relief holes in web, but purely personal pref). I noticed Abam and Mr. Pete have six jaw adjustable "set tru" chucks. What do you think of those? This seems to be a job that would lend itself well to one of those?
People with the 6-jaw seem to love them. "Not going back to a 3-jaw" ! Yeah, I'd have gone for 4 holes in the web - for symmetry - and to hide the real purpose of why I wanted a hole in there - to turn the O/D between centres and put the driving dog thru one of the holes ;) Then no risk at all of slipping on that mandrel !
Keith has a "six jaw" (actually I believe he has a couple) that came with his old LeBlond lathe (2018 ?) that he spent a couple of videos rebuilding. Keith is no stranger to the "six Jaw"!
great job with the pulley, I've been watching this series patiently . as for when you drilled and reamed for the shaft, Do you think that there would be an advantage to drilling in the 3 jaw chuck like you did, and then not reaming it to size until we had it in the 4 jaw? Just if we are concerned with concentricity and avoiding vibration when the part is complete and mounted in the machine... I might be coming up to a similar concern with a project I'm doing myself
Chuck it in a 4-jaw, drill undersize, bore to get your concentricity. leave enough to finish ream to size. Forget that 3 jaw if you want it to run true.
He's basically trepanning with a boring bar and it only has so much clearance under the curve as he mentioned so deep cuts can ram the non-cutting face into the work on deeper cuts.
I would remove the excess material by machining the O.D. with .100 cuts to about 1.30 thick, face to1.25, then trepan both sides. Every machinist works a little different so nothing wrong with Keith's method. Like others I'm anxious to see this beast work.
The last bite of that elephant is near. Hope it doesn't turn before you get to it! I bet you're ready for a little wart hog or antelope next. Smaller and more savory. Seriously, though, I'd say this was on the same latitude with the planer/matcher project ... would you say this was more involved, or not?
The cat had a great view of everything!
Really looking forward to seeing this beast make chips Keith.
you will need to frame the "first Chip" that is made. I can not wait. GREAT WORK!
Cool Idea! Maybe put it in a Home made tiny frame as a conversation piece.
I'd drill about 4-5 , 1" - 1.5" holes in the pulley to lighten it up a bit. Make it more of a spoked looking pulley like the others! Still looks great, And Have a awesome day, seriously, i mean it 🎉
Nice to see you managed to find a re-use for the tool you made to machine the brass shoes for Eric at Hand Tool Rescue
Keith, I love the originality approach, a v belt would make you crazy on that machine.
also A V belt would be hard to do due to you would need to take every thing apart to fit it flat belts are easy and best way to go
A "v-belt" would look silly on that machine!
I love continuous cast iron! So easy and accurate to machine, only problem is the dust.
Been waiting for this thing to run forever. I know that's gotta feel good.
Keith, You are at the home stretch of the longest project I have ever seen you accomplish. I have lost track of how many parts you have had to make! At least 62 videos!
I am sure that when someone views this machine years from now they will marvel at how "well preserved" it is.
It'll be great to see this old machine make swarf for the first time in many years.
Dear Keith, I'm happy for you getting close to be able toput this piece of history to work.
I got tears laughing at your voice at six times the speed, hilarious mate.
Thanks for another swell episode, take care.
Thanks for sharing!! Double check everything. Sweet!!
I have followed this project from early days. SO VERY interesting.
Congratulations on the completion of this project. I’ve watched every step of this restoration and the fit and finish is nothing short of perfection. Thanks for a great series of videos on this machine, and I’m looking forward to your next project. Top work Keith.
Loved the video. I saw a planer at Illinois Railway Museum that had to be disassembled into 3 pieces to fit a semi for transport. Your comment about chips hitting you in the face reminded me of the time I was making a frame for a live steam locomotive on a 22 inch Davis & Eagan shaper. I learned not to stand in front of the shaper wearing a short sleeve shirt.
So close to chips. Thank you Keith for the amazing videos and journeys restoring these machines. Have a bless day.
Tears of joy coming up!
A very happy day draws near.
" And look a there" Makes you feel good when you accomplish what you set out to do and it works!
I've been following this one since you first got it, four years ago. Very much looking forward to seeing it in action again.
So close now Keith. I've watched this from the beginning and can't wait to see it running. Great work.
I'm so excited to see that planer make some chips! Great work buddy, thanks for taking us along !
Excited to see it in operation. Beautiful job and I have enjoyed the journey. Thanks so much for sharing Keith!
Thank you for another informative, educational, historical and entertaining video. Thanks to you and your colleagues for keeping the machinery period correct. All the best.
Thanks Keith. Really enjoyed making the pulley. It sure turned out great. Cant wait to see it working with belt attachments.
I'd add holes in the pulley to match the other pulleys on the machine
Dunno that it works that well, i mean, sure, for his application that's not gonna "pull a mountain", but generally you want cast holes, rather than making them yourself. At the very least, two out of three pulleys i've made by reproducing OG ones broke after a while, because the spokes cracked. But that's my experience.
Paint
Again again why ?
Nice one Keith 👍
Great job Keith. I always enjoy and learn so much from your videos.
Belts… belts … belts! Can’t wait. Thanks for the video.
Congratulations on getting the machining finished! Will be exciting to see it run.
Job well done Keith, it won't be long.
Really enjoy the detailed turning job videos Keith.
Thanks for taking us through the entire process!
Can hardly wait for the "fire-up" Keith
Thanks Keith! I cant wait to see it run!
Awesome! Lightening holes would look good and help with the weight on the big Ole pully on the little shaft. Milled spokes would be really cool but I'm sure you want to get to making chips.
Again why ?
I hope you will also show how to get those belt measurements.
Keep up the good work. Love it when you show: this is the way ;)
Good video, it’s been a long time restoration, but when it runs it will be worth it.
I'm looking forward to seeing this magnificent beast making chips! Thanks Keith.
Getting close now! I’m also looking forwards to see thing first chips.
Just great, almost there Keith. I bet you must be getting excited for those first chips!
Looking good! It’s almost done and running!
Cant wait for the next episode 👍
good job keith
Looking forward to seeing how flat belts are installed so they are tight
Watch Dave Richards and the Old Steam Powered Machine Shop. You will see an entire shop run by a steam engine with the old time overhead belt drive. The point here is that you will notice there is nothing "tight" about the belts. Friction does the work.
Wow can’t believe it’s going to be done.
Thank you Keith , a very interesting machining operation .
Thank you for sharing. Enjoyed.
So you have all the belts, but what about the whistles?
Bells?
@@WilliamMulligan He is not that far, yet.
Wrong machine - it's the steam-powered saw at the museum that has the whistle he repaired !
Hiya Keith
I love when the cats make an appearance
Over the past 3 day I've uploaded the first 7 vids to Machining by Mike channel. My cat Chester makes an appearance!
Fantastic Keith just about there
Nice job, cant wait for the chips to fly!!!!
I’m dying to see this thing run ever since your shop tour series that had the one Ga tech had made in the 40s I’ve been looking for one preferably one much smaller like a 24x48 or so but I wouldn’t knock anything I could find so long as i could get it lol
Getting close for sure. An added benefit to a flat belt is if you used a solid v-belt, the whole jack shaft would need to come apart to change the belt. On the flat belt, just pull the pin on the lacing.
I'd love to see it when it is running.
Love your cat cleaning it’s self
Yea shes sitting up there in his toolbox and could care less what's going on. Its bath time 🤣
@@maggs131 ..."He's"
When you were crowning it, you could've blued it up with a Sharpie, then scribed a line in the middle, so you would know when the taper reached the halfway mark.
Good afternoon from SE Louisiana 7 Aug 21.
Can’t wait for for the finish, and see it running…
Yee-haw, I’m getting excited to see industrial sized chips! 😎👍👀
Your engineering drawing skills are about as good as mine these days! :)
I have some round carbides that might have hogged out the reliefs on cast. The bonus is the radius at each end. I totally agree with the no-holes decision.
The correct tool to use on that application is a "face grooving tool". It's made so you can plunge into a face with the correct radiused relief on it. I used to call it a "trepanning tool". You can buy them commercially or you can grind your own. Making only one part it would pay to make your own. You can look at the tool by doing a Google search for face grooving tool
Love the cat grooming himself on top of the toolbox during the introduction.
Cleanliness is next to catliness.
Planer chips coming soon!!
That cat is a hoot! You should addendum his name to "Ginger Billy" a much more crazy southern UA-camr
Finally time for the flat belts 😉👍🏻
He even managed to make a ridge on the inside large diameter taper. Brilliant.
Hi, fantastic!
In the first clamping I would have turned the cylindrical outer diameter almost completely, turned the side and bore the inside.
The second clamping was done on the outer surface and almost finished on the outside, as well as turned the side.
Then I would have arched the outside surface when it was on the clamping device in the bore with light passes.
Now you can no longer see that I have pre-turned the outside in two clamps and the outside diameter runs true to the bore.
Why do you feel anyone cares how you would do it? Do you think you have the only and perfect way to do it? If so, start making videos and posting, so those of us ignorant lowlifes can raise up to your level.
Great Job!
Almost ready !
I don't know that you have EVER talked about balancing pulleys, but static balancing (which really helps) can be done with a round shaft, a set of sawhorses, and a pair of homemade knife edges.
Since this part was made with dura-bar, I was wondering if it be more likely to naturally balance than would cast iron ?
Take those cast iron trimming chips and put them about your tomato plants base. You will love the flavor and the plant will be happy.
Your body does need a bit of iron.
@@jtjjbannie That red Georgia clay has a bit of iron already.
If you grow avocados use the chips around the tree roots for bigger and better tasting avos. Used to pound six inch nails into the trunk every year in Zambia. In six months you could snap them off with your fingers. Trees loved the iron and rewarded with awesome fruit.
I cannot wait to see that thing in action .... working on that coal stoker engine thats been waiting for that thing to get to working. I'm hoping its a double feature.
Thanks Keith for your informative videos.
I have one question on making the pulley. Wouldn't it have been better to have turned the first face, bore and crown the outer diameter in the "block" first and then switched to the 4 jaw, dial the outer diameter in, then face off the surplus material and finish the second face. That way the outer diameter and bore would be concentric and you wouldn't need the mandrel and it's questionable grip to turn the outside surfaces. Not a criticism just an observation.
Regards from Canada's banana belt 👍🇨🇦🤞.
Almost there !!!
Can't remember if when there are no tolerances given on a drawing, what is the "safe to assume" lee way you are allowed? -Or if it's shown as a fraction on the drawing. Very nice work Keith. As (I) get older i try to keep in practice by going for real close to size. There are some really cool jobs you can do with a restored Metal Planer.
(With good measuring instruments). Again really cool Machine there and thanks for the Videos.
Sometimes they'll use the number of digits after the decimal place to tell you, e.g. for a 0.30" feature you could probably accept 0.295" to 0.305", whereas a 0.300" feature probably wants to be between 0.299" and 0.301". There are also standard tolerances on a lot of things like gears and bearings.
Otherwise it's a bit up to your own intuition, clearly you need tighter tolerances on a locating pin for a precision mechanism than you do on the OD of a V-belt pulley.
Can't wait!
I'd like to see some pockets milled into that pulley so it looks like spokes somewhat and lighten the pulley more maybe? Just my two cents
Why ?
@@tonywright8294 Just for the look Tony so it matches the larger pulleys. Not for any function concerns
19:20 Not taking too deep a cut to avoid stalling the work....
Here's my suggestion: having made the mandrel & threaded it, use either a spring washer or a star washer rather than a big flat washer and put some lube on the thread before fitting the nut and nip up. All being well then, if the part slows or stops turning on the mandrel, it'll automatically tighten the nut to the point it doesn't slip any more !
Gettin' closer...😍😍
On your next video, could you cover calculating the length of each belt and how much contact they will have on each of the pulleys? Working to spec's is one thing but figuring them out is something else. Maybe it's in the Machinery Handbook, but I've never had cause to make any flat belts...
It IS in MH. I used to do belt and chain drive calculations a LOT in my days in the Mill Supply business. Once you have the pulley diameters and the center distance the belt length is easy. Plus I'm sure Keith has designed in a little adjustment to compensate for belt wear, although this machine won't see daily use for 100 years... ;)
I hear ya! It took a bit of time of hard work to make trigonometry my friend; in the meantime, great job!
The planer will rise again.
Looking great! :o)
It has proved that you have never done production turning, but its all fun
It doesn't need to be "proved"!! This is a hobby for him. He works for Bayer Crop Science. He is far away from"grunt" production work on a lathe!
Please make Moebius belts!!
Nice!! Great work... :-)
The grain in the cut bar appears to have the contours of a cold rolled bar. It that correct for a cast piece of iron.?
That's just harmonics in the bandsaw blade.
Why didn't you blue the outer diameter so you knew when you hit center on the crown taper?
Well done on the pulley. (I might have put some relief holes in web, but purely personal pref). I noticed Abam and Mr. Pete have six jaw adjustable "set tru" chucks. What do you think of those? This seems to be a job that would lend itself well to one of those?
People with the 6-jaw seem to love them. "Not going back to a 3-jaw" !
Yeah, I'd have gone for 4 holes in the web - for symmetry - and to hide the real purpose of why I wanted a hole in there - to turn the O/D between centres and put the driving dog thru one of the holes ;) Then no risk at all of slipping on that mandrel !
Keith has a "six jaw" (actually I believe he has a couple) that came with his old LeBlond lathe (2018 ?) that he spent a couple of videos rebuilding. Keith is no stranger to the "six Jaw"!
Are you still working on the steam stoker engine ?
I want to see the belt go on.
Keith. Merch. Vintage Machinery aprons. Please.
great job with the pulley, I've been watching this series patiently . as for when you drilled and reamed for the shaft, Do you think that there would be an advantage to drilling in the 3 jaw chuck like you did, and then not reaming it to size until we had it in the 4 jaw? Just if we are concerned with concentricity and avoiding vibration when the part is complete and mounted in the machine... I might be coming up to a similar concern with a project I'm doing myself
Chuck it in a 4-jaw, drill undersize, bore to get your concentricity. leave enough to finish ream to size. Forget that 3 jaw if you want it to run true.
Your cats got something on its face.
I’ve just spent four hours turning up some cast iron model locomotive wheels , why am I watching this ?😂
Hey Keith - Why not take .100" cuts when facing to get it done faster? .020" seems really too light to me but I don't know for sure.
He's basically trepanning with a boring bar and it only has so much clearance under the curve as he mentioned so deep cuts can ram the non-cutting face into the work on deeper cuts.
I would remove the excess material by machining the O.D. with .100 cuts to about 1.30 thick, face to1.25, then trepan both sides. Every machinist works a little different so nothing wrong with Keith's method. Like others I'm anxious to see this beast work.
Looks great Keith. It's going to be amazing to see it running. Is that a New Haven Connecticut Planer? Only 20 minutes from me.
The last bite of that elephant is near. Hope it doesn't turn before you get to it! I bet you're ready for a little wart hog or antelope next. Smaller and more savory.
Seriously, though, I'd say this was on the same latitude with the planer/matcher project ... would you say this was more involved, or not?
Are chips recycled?