Ford Explorer Heater Core Replacement
Вставка
- Опубліковано 22 лис 2017
- How to replace a heater core in a 2004 Ford Explorer ~ Slim Shadetree Mechanics.
Always check the fluid specifications in the manual that came with your specific vehicle year and motor. In this video, the OEM Motorcraft Gold coolant was used as specified, which is NOT a dexcool type. A Zerex G-05 brand type should be equivalent.
Note, I made an incorrect reference to the Ford Pinto as the direct cause for the development of the inertia switch.
Update with DISCLAIMER. There may be a way to replace the heater core without removing the dashboard. At the 11:38 mark, it shows why the dash needs to be removed; essentially there is a bracket in the way that prevents the heater core removal. But it looks like if the lines to the heater core were cut and replaced with hoses w/clamps, there may be a way to get around dashboard removal. Access to the screws for the plastic ducts may be difficult, but it may be possible. I'm not sure if anyone has done this successfully. - Авто та транспорт
I just did mine in my 03 explorer. I did just what you suggested. I clamped the hoses under the hood, then cut the heater core pipes under the dashboard, cut the pipes off the new heater core and bought some radiator hose and slid that bitch right in there and clamped it up. Runs great only took me 2 hours. All i had to remove was the center consol, kick plates, the glove box and the air duct system and that was it. Worked great and saved myself so much time. Thanks for that tip! This thing is on its last leg so i have no problem cutting corners. It just has to last me like another 6 months!
Awesome, glad it worked out!
ford engineers could make it easier but theres big money in dealer service- glad you are diying it
Make sure everyone reading this to change your coolant regularly to prevent this from ever happening!
That is an insane amount of work
thats engineers for you- their job is to make it harder for you
In Russia, they say so - the Eyes are afraid, but the hands do everything. Excellent. Thank You and your beautiful assistant. Now I can do this job on my own.
Thank you very much 👍 In a search on the Internet, I found only your channel where you explained in more detail how to remove the panel 👍. Greetings from Kazakhstan 🇰🇿👍
Ok, the video was posted 6 years ago, but I had to tell you about my '73 Pinto wagon. The heater core was leaking and I took it to a radiator shop. The owner's comment was that they started with the heater core and built the car around it. It takes a long time to replace it. In contrast, my '91 Ford Ranger only took 20 minutes to change the heater core.
Great music and hose tip. Never give up! Thanks very much for ur time and extreme efforts. Ur family and I are proud of you. U should be a Ford engineer. God's continued blessings forever.
Thanks for this video! I took your advice and just cut the pipes for the core in the dash. I cut the new core in the same places and used 5/8 heater hose to connect it all back up. Works like a charm.
I cut the bracket worked like a charm eight hr to a hr
How structural is that bracket though? Think cutting the pipes would be a safer option.
And that's why you should never be a mechanic or own hand tools.
Nice! I'm thinking about doing the same thing
@@cfnovak1 thank you
Most of this is not necessary. You do not need to remove the steering column, instrument panel, the radio, the airbag, any of the ducts, or anything else attached to the dash. One bolt connects the steering column to the steering gear, and then six screws (three really big, two little ones that connect the defroster outlet to the body, and one little one near the gas pedal) are all you need to remove the dashboard, or at least to swing it out to where you have full access to the heater box.
I just got done replacing the heater core in my 1981 ford granada, another job from hell but was not as intense as yours....I think they had better engineers back then. If the car did Not have a/c you just took out the glove box to reveal a small door, slide it out, new one in and you were done. But if you have a/c you have to do basically what you did. Just not as much stuff to move. After seeing this I have my 2005 ford explorer for sale....thanks for the info.
Good job knowing about that fuel safety switch saved the day
I worked for a GM dealership in 2001. I was responsible for detailing and all inside vehicle repairs. I had a 1999 Chevy S10 come in with the heater core leaking. It’s basically the same exact thing as this was. The whole day had to come out in order to change the heater core.
Wow! Am I impressed! I have even more respect for my own mechanic as well as you, Sean. Great job. And I've never heard that excellent Bix cut before .
I am going out to the driveway right now to start dismantelling my Nissan 350Z.
Nice Job Sean, a far cry from the model Ts! Entertaining and informative, I did not know about the different coolants, will have to keep an eye out for it.
Thanks! There are universal coolants out there that claim to work with any color antifreeze as well. Glad you enjoyed the video!
After having dealt with Ford heater cores, I can only come to the conclusion that it is a money maker for Ford. It would be a simple matter to design a core that was easily removable. I finally engineered a solution to my Ford Ranger after it ate the third heater core in 8 years.
What was the solution??
@@luisdelacruz7660 I bought a 2018 Explorer with a lifetime warranty!! 😆
Dear Great man;
I m really appreciate for your video, Thanks, again !
such a good work!!! very informative!!!!!
I was randomly watching stuff i agree they built the car around the heater core like its the heart. I did this on an expedition and it took 10 hours
Whoa that’s nuts. I have to do my 07 equinox. I think it’s going to be a similar nightmare. Thanks for the video
Would you be able to lift the housing the heater core sits in if you didnt remove the dash?
Good job you helped me immensely😅
Just finished mine,99 explorer 5.0.ur vidoe was the only vidoe I found helpful.Thk God mine didn't have that bolt under the wiper motor.😁😁
Thanks for the video and the tips and tricks you share with us all . On minute 17:13 you say to bleed the coolant but I think you meat to bleed the air out of the cooling system .
Good video and explained 😊
You do not have to do all that to replace the heater coil. Exactly like he said after he removed all that, just cut the bracket out of the way, cut the 2 tubes and use hoses and clamps. There's a video on UA-cam showing how to do it. The video sucks because its sideways but the information is great.
help us find it please
@@ufartface ua-cam.com/video/Y4G6ljTEL9k/v-deo.html Use a multi-purpose oscillating tool with the right blade and cut that bracket, cut the 2 tubes shorter if you need to and use rubber hoses and clamps
Now that I have got the dash out I'm waiting on parts one of your followers subscribers mentioned cutting the coolant lines from the heater core and I think you also mentioned that I took the old one and dry fitted the hose I believe that's the way I'm going to go because this job will never ever ever ever be done again
I like your choice of mmusic!
Good video man thanks
I want to thank you for your time and effort making this video to help people better understand the entire process of doing a heater core in these Explores .. But .. I took the short cut.. After removing the center console and removing the glove box I removed the dash support brackets and plastic duct work.. then removed the heater core cover that covers the heater core tubing that goes through the firewall.. and then the heater core cover on the bottom of the heater box.. Took out my dremel tool and cut that bracket off the dash on the passenger side. Disconnected the heater hoses and slide the heater core out.. it took me roughly 2 hours to remove it and 1 1/2 to reassemble.. That bracket is really unnecessary seeing how there are so many other supports including the center console which bolts to the dash and then the floor.. If it wasn't for your video I wouldn't have seen or considered cutting it off.. Thanks again for all your time , effort and insight.. Stay safe..
Great, glad everything worked out!
would love to see that video
@@ufartface I unfortunately didn't make a video.. But this guy did exactly what i did. ua-cam.com/video/Y4G6ljTEL9k/v-deo.html it saves a lot of time.
Hats off to you sir
This is so helpful and a big thank you to you!! I plan on doing this job on my 09 explorer in the near future, can you tell me if you needed to drain the AC system? Thank you so much!! John
I love your video about the guy beating his car with a hammer
That is one heck of a job man
I also ran across a guy that cut that bracket you spoke of but I don't want to mess with the Integrity of the dash and cutting that bracket but it took him an hour to replace the heater core
Suggestion: Do yourself a favor and pay $30 for an AlldataDIY manual for the car. They have the OEM step-by-step removal procedure and are MUCH better than the Haynes manuals. The OEMs write the instructions by having a technician do the work with as few steps as possible (so they can pay the dealer technicians as little as possible), so their instructions are more streamlined.
For example, the gauge cluster and steering column do not need to be removed to take the dash panel out. They will come out with the dash if you just remove the pinch bolt on the column. This way you don't need to worry about messing up the PRNDL indicator and you can leave all the connectors on the column connected. Zip tie one of the steering wheel spokes to one of the exposed brackets so that the wheel can't spin too far and damage the airbag clockspring.
Another helpful hint: got to the hardware store and pick up a few of the longest M8x1.25 hex-head bolts that you can find and replace at least 2 of the four main instrument panel bolts with them - the bronze colored bolts on either side of the panel. Doing this, you can slide the panel back a few inches before trying to pull the panel out so that you have room to make sure all the wiring and cables are disconnected and also makes it easier to detach the gear selector cable clips described in the video. Same with installing it - having the extra play allows you to move the panel around to line everything up, connect the steering column pinch bolt, plug everything in etc... It may actually give you the room you need to get the heater core out but I haven't tried. Next time...
I've taken the dash out of other vehicles with the steering column attached and I've found that makes the assembly as a whole so heavy and awkward that it's more difficult, especially when trying to match the steering shaft cam into place and maneuvering it without breaking all of the delicate plastic parts. I'm sure at the dealership they have it down to a science, but for a shade tree one time shot, it was worth the extra step to get it out of the way and try to curse a little less ;)
@@SeanCrimmins442 Ive done multiple Explorers and F150s 10ths and 11th gen. There is alot less steps that need to be taken than those Haynes manuals. It makes it about a 3 hour job. No I'm not bullshitting or trolling. The OP for this thread is 100% correct.
@@Silent_Shadow Yes, you're right. I did skip a few steps in the Haynes manual that I thought were unnecessary, such as disconnecting the A/C hoses and removing the bolts for the heater core housing from inside the firewall. This is a 2004 Ford Explorer and Peter B's suggestion of using long M8x 1.25 hex bolts to guide the dash out may give enough access room to the underside of the heater core cover and enough clearance to pry the entire housing up for cover re-installation. The bracket as depicted in the video may still be in the way though and it may be difficult to maneuver the heater core into place as the tubes need to slide all the way up through the openings in the firewall. I'm sure after doing many of these in a row, the R&R time would go down considerably.
Wao excelente video fue instructivo y algo gracioso me gusto mucho por no fue aburrido como otros videos 👍
I'm just going to divorce my wife instead of explaining why I'm not going to fix her truck 😆 much easier 😆
just move to the sun belt with her
I’m with you brother. She will have to see this video so she don’t think I’m bullshitting her. That is the shittiest design
Can you cut the bracket?
Oh man thats was awsome
American engineering at its finest...that is insane.
Yes, but much of the work he did turns out to be unnecessary. I had to change the whole heater box out on my '97 Mountaineer, and luckily, I leaned while removing it from an Explorer in a Pick-N-Pull yard, that the whole dash swings out with the removal of a total of six bolts from the dash. You do have to disconnect the steering column from the steering gear box, but NONE of the things attached to the dash actually have to be removed. This actually IS pretty good engineering. It allows the whole dashboard to be fully assembled before it's installed in the vehicle, and consequently, allows the whole thing to be removed as well. Or just swung out, which can be done without disconnecting most of the wire harnesses.
thank you so much 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Now I know that if I ever buy one of these, make sure the heater core isn’t bad.
Yeah but a HC is really a PIA for any vehicle. That goes for the blend door actuators too. More modern the vehicle, the more stuff in the way.
Cut those long heater core line off about 4"-6" from core. place back in dash and install rubber hose and hose clamps to reconnect the ends you just cut off.
wiper blades are rubber- they are wiper arms
I know this might be a long shot but how similar is this for a Ford expedition 2004 dash/heater core removal?
I do not believe they are similar, the heater core has a different part number and a quick search yielded that the configuration is different under the dash.
Nice and interesting video. Can you please give us the list of tools you used for this job? Also, did you use the ac line disconnecting tool for disconnecting the heater core?
Jamal Ahmed Fortunately, the AC does not need to be disconnected to remove the heater core.
Well I have to do the same to my Mercury 97. Any tips on how to do it faster?? Seems like a lot of work and there is no data out there. Great video!!
Lots of work to replace a heater core. I hope I don't have to replace mine. In hindsight could you have used compressed air to blow out that heater core from inside the firewall? And, maybe flushing it with water? Or, was it so clogged, that was not possible?
I have been able to temporarily clear up heater cores in other vehicles with a combination of vinegar and compressed air. I did try to clear out the heater core in the same manner in this vehicle and was able to get warmer air for a couple of days but not for long. The previous owner complained that the vehicle was brought to a shop for a coolant flush and they replaced the existing coolant with green ethylene glycol coolant in lieu of the red dexcool type coolant. When these two coolants mix, they coagulate and clog the cooling system, especially the tight clearances of a heater core. Unfortunately, heater core replacement was the only option for this project.
Good work but I wish to have the digrame that shows the positions of screws
Do you have a video on removing the blend dorr actuator for a 2002 ford explorer
I think this is the same as for the 1997 Mountaineer I replaced it on a few months ago. No video, sorry, but you can do that by removing the glove box. The blend door actuator is held on to the top of the heater box by three or four screws (varies by year), which are difficult but not impossible to remove. I needed a small 1/4" ratchet to do the job - the screws (8mm hex head, as I recall) are down where you can't reach them with a box or open-end wrench, so the socket was essential.
If I cut the bracket, what else needs to be removed dash wise to make this job happen? Plz reply asap if u can. I bought a chittlon Manual and am gonna try to do it tomorrow
I was away from the computer for the last couple of weeks, hope you made out all right. Cutting the bracket may not be the best idea as it's used to fasten the middle of the dash to the body. I was suggesting cutting the tubes of the heater core itself to get around the bracket and then reattaching the tubes using rubber hoses. I hadn't tried it but someone else on this thread did and had success. Another person on this tread suggested using long M8 x 1.25 hex bolts in place of the grade 8 colored fastening bolts securing the dash to the body on either side to guide the dash out a few inches. It might give you enough room to get access to the heater core cover and clearance to maneuver around the bracket, but I'm not sure if there has been success this way.
Is this for a 1999 explorer as well?
Please help Sean I had a antifreeze leak by the transmission from a black little tube someone told me heater core gonna be replace so I did a bypass in the firewall cancel the heater core.the leak stop . WHY that tube was leaking whats the conexion between heater core and that tube under the car by the tranny besides when the explorer was leaking the heat still works please any help thanks good bless you
Unfortunately it sounds like your heater core is leaking. There is a hole in the floor that the black tube fits though and the tube is connected to the inside of the heater core housing. If the heater core starts leaking, it leaks through the tube and spills coolant on the road instead of on the floors inside the vehicle. You can almost see this tube at the 13:50 mark on the video.
@@SeanCrimmins442 all clear thank you very much for take the time have good day
Dear. God.
This job is HORRIBLE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thank you for posting this NIGHTMARE process!!
I think you've got the right idea about cutting the heater core pipes and using some short hose lengths...I think that's what I'm going to do for my leaking heater core...
A quick correction - the fuel cut-off has nothing to do with the Pintos.
The cut-off switch came about because of fuel injection and the relocation of the fuel pump to inside the tank rather than at the engine. Remember the old mechanical fuel pumps?? The fuel lines were suction lines. If a line got severed, you might spill a few ounces of gas. With the in-tank pumps, if a line gets severed, you have a pressurized line being fed by a pump directly at the fuel source. As long as there's power and fuel in the tank, there will be a pressurized flow of fuel. Unless there's a cut-off switch that's activated by impact or other electrical triggers.
The Pinto’s problem was a design/impact problem with the fuel tank placement. Their gas tanks were located where they could easily be damaged...from behind or below…which resulted in tank ruptures...followed by fuel everywhere…and a sudden ignition by any number of hot surface/spark hazards - like metal grinding across metal during an accident. The fuel tank could be ruptured in a rear-end collision or any other event involving the area behind the rear wheels of the car. Coming off a curb too hard or even crossing a really bad RR crossing could cause ruptures!! This resulted in the entire auto industry moving the fuel tank locations to over or in front of the rear axle, providing much more effective protection. Another effect was the introduction of plastic fuel tanks which are much less prone to catastrophic failure in a disfiguring incident.
Cheers! That's good to know about the Pinto, I always assumed that the inertia switch was a correlation because I hadn't seen many inertia switches for other vehicles besides Ford. Let me know if you have luck with the hose & heater core idea. I was thinking the only other thing that may be difficult would be access to the screws for the plastic floor ducts with the dashboard in the way, but if there was a way to get around it that would be awesome.
My 97 ford explorer heater core quit working 1 month ago, just before winter.. fk i'm doomed. So I was looking up how to exchange it.
Eric the car guy made a v on uncloging a heater core.
it is directly below the glove box on my 92 explorer. like four bolts (i forget)
My god what an abomination of a job! Sadly I need mine replaced a 2nd time now as the first replacement only lasted about 10 years or so. I have a local shop offering $750 in labor plus parts to do it and after watching this I think they don't know what they are in for. I still have heat but I can hear the coolant sloshing around on that bottom cover and fear its blowing hot air across that open coolant and into my cabin etc. Also the suv keeps loosing fluid over time to evaporation and leakage down there so it has to be done. UHG!
Where is it...I know I had it around here..somewhere...ah, there’s that saws all. The good news is, my hand and tool will fit in between the panel wall and the controller I’m trying to replace...the bad news is Ford taped a cord of wires to the frame which is exactly in the way of the top bolt I need to remove. Can I slice the tape....not unless I had a razor claw at the tip of my finger. Ford won ☝🏼 ....job security.👏🏼
I got 30 seconds in and decided to either cut the bracket inside or live without heat, HOLY hell...
What is the name of the book you used in that video
I used a Haynes Manual
Thank you too much
Can you please send the book cover to easy find it
Great video , you sound like me lol
Thanks so much for this video! We changed out the heater core but now the explorer will crank but not start. If you are still checking comments here, any idea what step we missed or messed up that would cause this? Of course the car was working before we started so it’s gotta be something we did or didn’t do
And I checked the fuel safety switch and it is not up.
First check all of your fuses to make sure none blew during the repair, especially fuse 26 and 39 in the engine compartment. To do it quickly, use a test light connected to ground and probe the back end of each side of the fuse. Turn the key to the "on" position without starting the motor. You should hear a low hum of the fuel pump priming the fuel pump for a couple seconds. If you do not, suspect an issue with the fuel safety switch or one of the grounding straps.
@@SeanCrimmins442 It was a bad fuel safety switch. I was able to bypass it and have a new one on order. Was so nice to have the car running again! But we still don't have warm air in the heater. I really thought we had it, but feels like we are back to square one. Thoughts or suggestions?
@@TheAnnasor49 After the motor is warmed up, check the temperature of both the heater hoses going to the firewall in the engine compartment. If both hoses are hot, suspect an issue with the blend door actuator or associated switch/circuit. I believe that the bend door is located on the drivers side of the housing for the heater core. There should be a couple of videos on UA-cam that show more details.
Need vacuum yes i need that
and I have to remove the air conditioner radiator 🤦♂️. as in this model, there is no cabin filter
For the love of god replace the vent doors now
maybe replace the ac evaporator also hey?
I was hopping to see which we're the heater hoses....(bummer)
cowl bolts yes you do done hundreds of em for broke mode doors and max air doors.. lol
The summary of this clip is as follows:
1. Say that it's a darn shame
2. Call a tow truck
3. Send it to the junkyard
4. Call it a day
yea I think I'm just gonna freeze
LMAO hell might as well send the heads off port and polish bigger valves and springs why couldn't anyone cut the tubes off the heater core and get a brazing rod and reconnect the tubes lol
Screw all that I'll just freeze
🤣🤣🤣
Since you've open everything make sure to replace air blender before gets broken! because is going to brake soon!!!😂😂😂😂😂😂
50$ dls pice 700 labor
I'll just stay cold. It will only be cold for 2 months...😎
I will never ever do that job. No wonder car shops want $1400 for that job.
not everyone has $1400
I hate Ford Explorers now. :( knocks us out of getting a nice one because I have no one that wants to go through this..and honestly, I can't blame them...I do believe Ford made them this way to make LOTS of money on repairs. lol..unbelievable!
FTS.. I rather sell as is and buy another vehicle,,(but this time NOT A FORD)
Music
WTF? Guess I'm do that, if it's the problem!!
Its a nightmare
HOLY FREAKING STUPID ENGINEERS BATMAN!!! Yep, I gotta do the same thing to an 03... FML...
Nope.....not doing it!
This is what not to do in order to change your heater core
Actually, just reverse flushed mine and my heater works again. No need for any of this!
He still didn’t get the thing to blow heat 😂
Ford really is great. Right up until you learn what you got to got through, just to have it serviced.
Ford owners: it’s really a great truck!😄
DIY Ford owners : F$&k this truck!!😡
What kind of ass backwards, nonsensical, intergalactic F$&kry is this?!
Who did this?! Who thought this was a good design?!
…Dead?! Well who’s ass, I’m I ment to kick?!
The engine?! What about it!!?
…..Bullshit. That’s a lie!
… are you f$&king kidding me!! $3600!!!
Proceeds to get gun and shoot truck.
Say what🤔
We're made in HIS image. HE made us with the power of free choice
A good prayer:
I'm a sinner JESUS please forgive me for all my sins I know you shed your Blood for me on the cross at Calvary. Thank you JESUS for my salvation and for shedding they Blood for me. I love you JESUS.
Romans 10:5/10 ct...❤️k
JESUSisLord!Amen...
Amen..
If you'd like to call someone who cares
83
For
Truth.
bc you don't know when you'll die?
.y r u hesitant. .. .... .. . .........
As a mechanic for a living, I'd be lying if I said I didn't say a prayer every now and then...
Most people that post videos on UA-cam they post them to help other people you really think your video it's helping anybody
You can watch it or you don't have to watch it. It's not like I'm getting paid for any of that effort.
just cut the dash out
Ford junk, hate working on fords, they just don't care about maintenance.
You should try to do this on a Pontiac Vibe, pretty much the same process, as it is with any modern car. I have found Fords to be one of the easier vehicles to work on.
Try working on a GM. They're much worse! My son has a Ford and I'd say they're much easier to work on!
If you get to the point that you have to remove this much stuff just drive the vehicle off a cliff.
NEVER get a ford
What a dumb design.