Thanks for watching. If you enjoyed this video, please leave a Like and Subscribe to the channel. If you have any other great tips or techniques for adding rust to your miniatures, please feel free to leave a comment below. Cheers!
I do not subscribe/donate to your Patreon however I have been a fan of yours for the decade of awesome service you've given to teaching all of us how to paint cool miniatures. However I need to make a request and get something off my chest. My two miniature plastic hobbies are Warhammer 40k, and Gundams. I started with Gundams building and painting them (spray cans and airbrush with minimal hand brushed detail work) and then later discovered Warhammer. I need you to show how you personally would approach how to build, assemble, and paint, a Gundam. Now don't get me wrong. I know how to do that myself. I don't need it as a way of learning. I just want my two favorite plastic miniature hobbies to intertwine with you as the medium. I need you to build the link because I want to see your skills brought to Gundams purely for my entertainment. Thus begins my request. I will post the following message below every single one of your new videos, and I will slowly make my way backwards to all of your previous videos until my request is answered. Please show us how you would approach building, assembling, and painting a Gundam from Bandai. If you need recommendations on which one to try I have several which fulfill different criteria from beginner friendly to more complicated, from 1/144th to 1/100 to 1/60th scale.
These are some great techniques and all have a good place depending on how severely rusted you want your rust to be. I personally favour the acrylic method because of how simple it is and because most people will already have the necessary tools laying around anyway. The real rust method also looks really interesting. Would be curious to see some other weathering videos. Verdigris is particularly interesting.
For the acrylic method I sometimes add blotches of heavily diluted orange and red wash or contrast paint to areas which would be heavily rusted, if you go too far then you can drab it down again with a brownish wash (like Agrax Earthshade or Seraphim Sepia) on those areas or sometimes rub it off (if it's contrast paint) to show the metallic underneath. Also having reference photos to hand is a great idea, even if you get some odd looks when taking photos of abandoned vehicles, old iron railings and buildings with concrete cancer!
I found your channel a couple weeks ago after pulling out my forgotten chaos army I never finished after 15 years. Now I own my own home and have the space and time to get back to my hobby I'm hitting the ground running. This is Great! I'd love to see some copper "greening" techniques. I have a dream of making a necron army that's mostly copper, but use slight greening to give the appearance of time finally taking it's toll on the protective coatings on their metal armor.
I think of those my favorite is the acrylics, though my personal preference is for doing layers of chipping or enamel rust effects. Maybe because I came into minis via scale modelling where those techniques are more common, rather than pure figure painting.
For the sake of brushes everywhere please stop using typhus corrosion. It hurts the soul of all your brushes the way your best friend getting kicked in the balls hurts you
I'm working for a painting company in germany. The U-Rust is great. We use stuff like this from a company called modern masters to create rust effects in living rooms etc. It's the same but a little bit bigger :D
when i use dirty brown "awsome product" i use a small layer and put another layer upon area where i want more rust.. its incredible how it works.. you can basicly sit and see it dry and making its effect ! and more layers makes it darker and rusty... great vid for showing off these steps..
Fabulous video! I wish I'd seen this before rusting up a DKoK Chimera; my rust job is hard to sort out from the mud and dirt. I especially liked the introduction to the new rusting products. More little bottles for me!
My favorite rust for terrain is doing a coat of browns, reds, and orange on terrain and then a big makeup blending brush to dry brush silver over top. Really streaky and random looking and then a nice brown wash ties it together.
That sounds really effective. I do something similar for one of my rusts, I stipple varying mixtures of brown, red and black, and then use an old stiff brush to make silver edges and chips on it. It's quite useful for big industrial metal
For dirty down, texture under it massively improves final result (typhus corrosion or just texture paste). Also using smaller amounts targeted then adding heat increases the effect.
The U-Rust effect looks very interesting. How textured does it leave the mini? I'm building a Death Guard force and wanted to get some deep rusted effects and was planning to use chipping medium over the top of the rust. Cheers Duncan for the tutorials!
@@DuncanRhodesDRPA Thanks for the speedy reply. I'm also very interested in how these rust effects combine together. Gonna have to go full mad-scientist and experiment with it all!
Great examples. I actually use elements of more than one (nothing says you are limited to a single technique per model, right?) Start with paint, add one of the special effect ones in select areas, then finish with pigment powders... As a kid, I made my own "rust effect" with watered down PVA glue and baking soda, then painted on top when it was dry. Thanks!
Man I use nescafe with a bit of water and its just beautiful.. when its dry its kinda glossy but if you apply mate barnish it just look nice. So dark I also use the rests of water mixed with coffee from my old coffe maker (I put a plate under to pick the drops when the coffe is done and it keeps dropping some.. and the results are different from nescafe, it looks like a brown ink and when its dry like rust pigments. Just playing with the concentration of water in the plate i put under (where the drops are collected as I said ) and looks amazing. Also smells so good haha Its just a poor solution but it works, if someone wanna try👌✌ Its literally worth to try, also cheap
Iam kinda surprised you did not linked your older videos from warhammer channel about Typh*s Corrosion, since with R*za Rust combo it is really effortless and truly deserves to be a number 5 in this awesome guide! Also, as a paint collector (and lover) I adore that you do not waste much product. A lot of youtubers drops half of a bottle on a palette in a videos (it could also be a psychotype of painter, like "messy"), making me nervous about wastage of my precious bottles :D P.S. I did not receive my dirty down rust yet, but I heard that you have to coat it on warm surface to increase effect and fasten dry time. Also, it acts different with additional coats dramatically changing outcome with each thin layer!
Really waiting now for Verdigris effect, especially with dirty down verdigris, for me it seems quite hard to control, and to gain pefrectly match color with water.
great video duncan, i learned alot from this, i had never heard of the pigment powder. just want to shout out nihilakh oxide and typhus corrosion, they are great for rust effects.
Very informative and interesting! I was wondering if there is anything else that can be used to fix down weathering pigments/powders? I don't have easy access to Vallejo products and it'd be great if there were any alternatives, like products that might be readily available elsewhere!
With dirty down rust, do you have to use the technique you showed here or can you simply just apply it more sparingly in the areas that you want as opposed to the whole area and then remove afterword's? Also, i usually dont varnish my models, but with dirty down rust, should i varnish since the paint can reactivate?
Would be nice if there was also a follow up in regard to how to varnish these rust effects so as not to lose the look. I have a few models that I treated with Dirty Down Rust and it looks great. However, the easy reactivation with water means that you could potentially mess it up easily if you're not careful. A coat of varnish should theoretically fix that but the finish may ruin the effect by making it not look like rust anymore: once I used Munitorum varnish from Citadel on rust painted with the acrylic method and it stopped looking like rust and more like mud as a result. Otherwise great video!
Hmm, I have seen Dirty Down Rust look much different - better to my eyes - on other channels. The reason for the different look seems to be that it has been used it over metallic paint instead of over brown, and maybe because a hair dryer was used after it has been applied.
All the good rust stuff such as from Mig is out of stock that U-Rust collection box is unavailable just 9 months later and I actually just purchased the LAST bottle of MIG U-RUST Type 1 in the whole of Spain from some little shop in Zaragoza, Spain.
Hello, will there be a video from board games for painting miniatures on your channel? Interested in painting miniatures The Lord of the Rings: Journeys in Middle earth
You get 3 thumbs up! One thumbs up is for the kick a$$ music. Another for making a kick a$$ video. The third thumbs up is because the second thumbs up removed the first thumbs up!
I've been painting my votann einhyr ironguard in necron vehicle like colorscheme, but now I have no idea for the secondary colour. Since for normal votann they're white with green secondary, hearthguard are mostly green But now I have the lil unz and I dunno what color to paint them to replace the white Any suggestions?
You really should have noted that Dirty Down has loads of high VOC in it, and should not be used without proper PPE and ventilation. Hobby supplies with long term adverse health effects are a weird thing.
U-rust has a huge problem in that the scale of the texture is wrong. I.e. your model doesn't look as a rusty tank in the end but a rusty MINIATURE tank. I would say that for most usecases #1 and #2 are the best
@@Black_Blow_Fly Support of Todd Howard and any Fallout-related material is an affront to the fan Fallout fan base, most importantly in light of the recent 76 debacle. If you don’t know, you don’t know. If you’re here only for minis, give your support. You aren’t here for Fallout, or you’d know. I’m only replying to boost Dunc.
Very interesting how you used those three Citadel colors for rust, rather than just Typhus Corrosion and Ryza Rust. Does that mean GW is going to be discontinuing these, or is it more of a pleb thing to use?
Thanks for watching. If you enjoyed this video, please leave a Like and Subscribe to the channel. If you have any other great tips or techniques for adding rust to your miniatures, please feel free to leave a comment below. Cheers!
I do not subscribe/donate to your Patreon however I have been a fan of yours for the decade of awesome service you've given to teaching all of us how to paint cool miniatures. However I need to make a request and get something off my chest. My two miniature plastic hobbies are Warhammer 40k, and Gundams. I started with Gundams building and painting them (spray cans and airbrush with minimal hand brushed detail work) and then later discovered Warhammer.
I need you to show how you personally would approach how to build, assemble, and paint, a Gundam. Now don't get me wrong. I know how to do that myself. I don't need it as a way of learning. I just want my two favorite plastic miniature hobbies to intertwine with you as the medium. I need you to build the link because I want to see your skills brought to Gundams purely for my entertainment. Thus begins my request. I will post the following message below every single one of your new videos, and I will slowly make my way backwards to all of your previous videos until my request is answered.
Please show us how you would approach building, assembling, and painting a Gundam from Bandai. If you need recommendations on which one to try I have several which fulfill different criteria from beginner friendly to more complicated, from 1/144th to 1/100 to 1/60th scale.
@@MangyForestCat did he answer?
Any time I get fed up with some aspect of the paitning hobby, I come to this channel to regain my love for it.
Duncan ive been watching mini painting for about a year and a half now. You are the man that made me order the 1st box. Much love from Poland.
So impressed with those u-rust products wow! The results are beautiful 😍
These are some great techniques and all have a good place depending on how severely rusted you want your rust to be. I personally favour the acrylic method because of how simple it is and because most people will already have the necessary tools laying around anyway. The real rust method also looks really interesting.
Would be curious to see some other weathering videos. Verdigris is particularly interesting.
Agreed. Every method has its place. We were surprised that the 'Acrylic Method' trumped our most recent poll by quite some way.
For the acrylic method I sometimes add blotches of heavily diluted orange and red wash or contrast paint to areas which would be heavily rusted, if you go too far then you can drab it down again with a brownish wash (like Agrax Earthshade or Seraphim Sepia) on those areas or sometimes rub it off (if it's contrast paint) to show the metallic underneath.
Also having reference photos to hand is a great idea, even if you get some odd looks when taking photos of abandoned vehicles, old iron railings and buildings with concrete cancer!
That u-rust technique looks amazing!
I found adding a second mixing ball really helped with Dirty Down mixing.
Great tip! Thanks for sharing :-)
I found your channel a couple weeks ago after pulling out my forgotten chaos army I never finished after 15 years. Now I own my own home and have the space and time to get back to my hobby I'm hitting the ground running. This is Great!
I'd love to see some copper "greening" techniques. I have a dream of making a necron army that's mostly copper, but use slight greening to give the appearance of time finally taking it's toll on the protective coatings on their metal armor.
Love the look of U-Rust, going to hav eto get my hands on that to give it a try!
I think of those my favorite is the acrylics, though my personal preference is for doing layers of chipping or enamel rust effects. Maybe because I came into minis via scale modelling where those techniques are more common, rather than pure figure painting.
That second method looks incredibly good, I might finally set aside the Typhus Corrosion and Ryza Rust and try something new
For the sake of brushes everywhere please stop using typhus corrosion. It hurts the soul of all your brushes the way your best friend getting kicked in the balls hurts you
put pigment powder on top typhus corr. you get the dark grainy bits from typhus poking through the pigment powder, it is really nice.
@@bagel_guy9495 I just have the sacrificial brush for ir
I finally got the u rust set because of this video and it’s great if not a bit unpredictable. 🙂
I'm working for a painting company in germany. The U-Rust is great. We use stuff like this from a company called modern masters to create rust effects in living rooms etc. It's the same but a little bit bigger :D
when i use dirty brown "awsome product" i use a small layer and put another layer upon area where i want more rust.. its incredible how it works.. you can basicly sit and see it dry and making its effect ! and more layers makes it darker and rusty... great vid for showing off these steps..
Vous êtres un authentique maître, mon cher Duncan ! Gratias tibi tam !
Fabulous video! I wish I'd seen this before rusting up a DKoK Chimera; my rust job is hard to sort out from the mud and dirt. I especially liked the introduction to the new rusting products. More little bottles for me!
Glad it was helpful!
My favorite rust for terrain is doing a coat of browns, reds, and orange on terrain and then a big makeup blending brush to dry brush silver over top. Really streaky and random looking and then a nice brown wash ties it together.
That sounds like a great technique. Thanks for sharing 😊
That sounds really effective. I do something similar for one of my rusts, I stipple varying mixtures of brown, red and black, and then use an old stiff brush to make silver edges and chips on it. It's quite useful for big industrial metal
Bravo, sir Duncan! Bravo!
Right as my brother bought rust and a chipping medium kit. Thanks Duncan! :)
For dirty down, texture under it massively improves final result (typhus corrosion or just texture paste). Also using smaller amounts targeted then adding heat increases the effect.
Great tip :-)
Great video. It’d be nice if you could add time stamps/chapters to videos like this so we can jump to the part we need for reference during a rewatch.
Good idea!
he got it done i belive
ask and ye shall receive.
Nice! I’ll be using the first one on my nurgle boys, I was looking for an easy technique and this looks like the one! Thanks
Thank you , DRPA .
🐺
Our pleasure
🐺
6:50 could not stop my brain from saying "I'm old Gregg"
The U-Rust effect looks very interesting. How textured does it leave the mini?
I'm building a Death Guard force and wanted to get some deep rusted effects and was planning to use chipping medium over the top of the rust.
Cheers Duncan for the tutorials!
It does leave some texture but it may be worth an experiment or two . We only touched the surface to what the paint can achieve.😊
@@DuncanRhodesDRPA Thanks for the speedy reply.
I'm also very interested in how these rust effects combine together. Gonna have to go full mad-scientist and experiment with it all!
Must say this was a cool video.
Brilliant!
The Dirty Down Rust method looks like it would be great for recreating Raxus Prime, if you play Star Wars Legion or the RPG!
thx for useful trailer,
Merry X'Mas.🎉
Hi Duncan!
With the Dirty Down rust you need to add a LOT more water to activate the paint.
Your finish is essentially a layer of unactivated paint.
Great examples. I actually use elements of more than one (nothing says you are limited to a single technique per model, right?) Start with paint, add one of the special effect ones in select areas, then finish with pigment powders...
As a kid, I made my own "rust effect" with watered down PVA glue and baking soda, then painted on top when it was dry.
Thanks!
Oh, that sounds like a useful technique. Thanks for sharing 😊
this tutorial is rustproof 😆
Man I use nescafe with a bit of water and its just beautiful.. when its dry its kinda glossy but if you apply mate barnish it just look nice. So dark
I also use the rests of water mixed with coffee from my old coffe maker (I put a plate under to pick the drops when the coffe is done and it keeps dropping some.. and the results are different from nescafe, it looks like a brown ink and when its dry like rust pigments.
Just playing with the concentration of water in the plate i put under (where the drops are collected as I said ) and looks amazing. Also smells so good haha
Its just a poor solution but it works, if someone wanna try👌✌
Its literally worth to try, also cheap
Iam kinda surprised you did not linked your older videos from warhammer channel about Typh*s Corrosion, since with R*za Rust combo it is really effortless and truly deserves to be a number 5 in this awesome guide! Also, as a paint collector (and lover) I adore that you do not waste much product. A lot of youtubers drops half of a bottle on a palette in a videos (it could also be a psychotype of painter, like "messy"), making me nervous about wastage of my precious bottles :D
P.S. I did not receive my dirty down rust yet, but I heard that you have to coat it on warm surface to increase effect and fasten dry time. Also, it acts different with additional coats dramatically changing outcome with each thin layer!
i play death guard
i did all 4 methods on top of each other
looks good man
All these work well on top of typhus corrosion for texture
Duncan, would you do a hang out and paint with Peachy, for old times sake? He's already said he's up for it.
This is great!! I just got a bottle of Dirty Down thanks for the tips!
Glad we could help! It's a great paint and worthy of having in your paint collection for sure!
Recently I've been using GreenStuffWorld liquid pigments for rust and dust.
ModelMates rust effect is also good.
Really waiting now for Verdigris effect, especially with dirty down verdigris, for me it seems quite hard to control, and to gain pefrectly match color with water.
great video duncan, i learned alot from this, i had never heard of the pigment powder. just want to shout out nihilakh oxide and typhus corrosion, they are great for rust effects.
Loved the video. What is the name of the red oxide paint you started with in the U Rust example?
amazing ✨👌
Very informative and interesting! I was wondering if there is anything else that can be used to fix down weathering pigments/powders? I don't have easy access to Vallejo products and it'd be great if there were any alternatives, like products that might be readily available elsewhere!
With dirty down rust, do you have to use the technique you showed here or can you simply just apply it more sparingly in the areas that you want as opposed to the whole area and then remove afterword's?
Also, i usually dont varnish my models, but with dirty down rust, should i varnish since the paint can reactivate?
i thought Dirty down had the best rust effect... i was wrong ! Especially for Necromunda ash waste terrain, U-Rust products are no brainer !
Once I found Dirty Down Rust, I was done painting rust affects.
Would be nice if there was also a follow up in regard to how to varnish these rust effects so as not to lose the look. I have a few models that I treated with Dirty Down Rust and it looks great. However, the easy reactivation with water means that you could potentially mess it up easily if you're not careful. A coat of varnish should theoretically fix that but the finish may ruin the effect by making it not look like rust anymore: once I used Munitorum varnish from Citadel on rust painted with the acrylic method and it stopped looking like rust and more like mud as a result.
Otherwise great video!
Hmm, I have seen Dirty Down Rust look much different - better to my eyes - on other channels. The reason for the different look seems to be that it has been used it over metallic paint instead of over brown, and maybe because a hair dryer was used after it has been applied.
You guys should do a video on moss next, or maybe coral
Can you airbrush on the affixer for the pigments? Or will it not hold them in place?
All the good rust stuff such as from Mig is out of stock that U-Rust collection box is unavailable just 9 months later and I actually just purchased the LAST bottle of MIG U-RUST Type 1 in the whole of Spain from some little shop in Zaragoza, Spain.
Noooo. Really? That sucks. It might be supply issues?
Hello, will there be a video from board games for painting miniatures on your channel? Interested in painting miniatures The Lord of the Rings: Journeys in Middle earth
Hi, Duncan. Any plans to do a tutorial on Gray Knights soon?
As soon as they do an updated Primaris version you can count on it :-)
@@DuncanRhodesDRPA Thank you. Your video is very good. Easy to understand for a beginner like me.
How do you seal the DIrty Down without it reactivating the product?
You get 3 thumbs up! One thumbs up is for the kick a$$ music. Another for making a kick a$$ video. The third thumbs up is because the second thumbs up removed the first thumbs up!
Miss blanchitsu stuff from white dwarf ...
Oh yes. A fun style for sure.
Is there a way to varnish the dirty down rust? I just finished my terrain and used the GW can varnish and all effect disappeared :(
I've been painting my votann einhyr ironguard in necron vehicle like colorscheme, but now I have no idea for the secondary colour. Since for normal votann they're white with green secondary, hearthguard are mostly green
But now I have the lil unz and I dunno what color to paint them to replace the white
Any suggestions?
If the Dirty Down rust paint reactivates when it comes into contact with water, can you varnish over it?
As far as we can tell, yes. Has anyone else had any issues with this?
@@DuncanRhodesDRPA Just with an airbrush or also with a regular brush?
@@tomo_schmidt Airbrush or spray varnish works best
You’ll get a much more interesting result with Dirty Down if you warm the model and rust effect with a hair dryer first.
Interesting. Thanks for sharing
@@DuncanRhodesDRPA of course! Thanks for all the hard work you and yours do to teach and entertain!
you ballsed up the dirty down one. try thinning the DD with ipa and applying it like a wash. makes it 100000x better.
Shadup
Gold doesn't rust, ergo it makes the best armour!! Right? Right???
Nothing quite like getting tetanus from your own plastic minis! Gonna have to get some of that U-Rust...
Tetanus is a bacteria, not a product of rust. So if this stuff is cleanthere should be no issue
Will I get Tetanus if I touch minis painted like this?
Yes.
How many WD40 do you need to get your rusted Space Marine to start moving?
Yes.
🤣🤣 made us chuckle
the realistic one looks amazing, however its about 100 times too big for anything table top
And just make sure you chuck your Typhus Corrosion in the bin before you start.
since/If you made two thin coats paint line to match/rival GW paints, why do you use so many citadel paints in your videos still?
You really should have noted that Dirty Down has loads of high VOC in it, and should not be used without proper PPE and ventilation. Hobby supplies with long term adverse health effects are a weird thing.
Thank god my tetanus shots are up to date.
We know right! 🤣
Fun fact, tetanus has nothing to do with rust. It's just that it's usually found on dirty metal, which is typically corroded.
U-rust has a huge problem in that the scale of the texture is wrong. I.e. your model doesn't look as a rusty tank in the end but a rusty MINIATURE tank.
I would say that for most usecases #1 and #2 are the best
No one cares about Fraud Coward and his garbage attempt at minis. He's doing to Fallout what GW did to Warhammer Fantasy Battle.
??!
@@Black_Blow_Fly Support of Todd Howard and any Fallout-related material is an affront to the fan Fallout fan base, most importantly in light of the recent 76 debacle. If you don’t know, you don’t know. If you’re here only for minis, give your support. You aren’t here for Fallout, or you’d know. I’m only replying to boost Dunc.
Very interesting how you used those three Citadel colors for rust, rather than just Typhus Corrosion and Ryza Rust. Does that mean GW is going to be discontinuing these, or is it more of a pleb thing to use?