I like your videos. You take your time, you're careful, and you replace things the car needs. I'd make you an honorary German if I could, but there isn't any doubt you are a car guy!
Great video ! No need for a bunch of unnecessary commentary. Just show us how it's done. Nice camera work too and I like that you made sure to preload it at the end before tightening everything up. I am putting camber bolts on 09 w211 and needed to see this. Thanks for taking the time to make this It really helped me a lot.
Pls let us know the value of camber before vs after installing your own camber adjusting bolt. I had bought 4 pieces of Febi camber adjusting bolt before understanding that it's normal negative chamber value is at -1.4 degree +/-0.3 degree. The tire shop reading for my W211 is -1.4 for right side vs -1.3 for left side. What if after inserting the Febi camber bolt the new reading comes to -1 to -0.9 degree?. Would it be still ok?. W211 front toe in value is supposed to be ok at 0.1 degree. While current 0.3 degree for my W211 toe in value is supposed to be a bit too much. Every week I would try to learn a bit more on how to properly maintain the W211 I just bought last year. Regards
@@whlawson5812 I have the E350 Sport Package. Both left front is currently at 3 degrees negative and the right is at 2.5 degrees. I hope to get the camber bolts installed in a week. I have read that it will only improve the camber by maybe .5 degrees. It's not much but I can use all I can get. Really getting tired of having to buy new tires every 15K miles.
Your ball joint came off relatively easy. I tried this today on my 05 e320 (w211) and it would not budge! Used same tool and tightened as far as it would go, hammered on it, tried heating it up, WD-40 nothing. Took a break tried it all again, would not come loose. I could've gone tighter with the tool using a longer bar but was afraid the tool would snap. I gave up and put it back together
Tried loosing up the lower control arm bolt that's closer to the subframe of the car..Loosing it up and hand tightening it back down..So you have A little play In it..Spray some PB Blaster on the ball joint and let it sit for about 25 minutes and then reposition the ball joints tool..It might not be in the right position to get the job done..Then put A half inch ratchet on it or A breaker bar,if needed. Keep cranking it down until it bust down like it did In my video! You not going to break anything..It just take A good amount of pressure to bust them down..Mercedes are very safety cars..That makes it hard preventing, incidents and accidents!👍🏾
Do you remember the size of the external torx bolt on the control arm bushing? The big bushing on the subframe. I went to do my control arm today just to find out it’s not an E18 socket (that’s what people on the forums said 😂😂)
Both bolts are the same size..Except the back head of the bolts..That takes different socket size! The one that takes the E18 Is the OEM bolt and the other is the OE! I used the same bolt that came with the original part I took off..(Branded Mercedes Benz) Instead of the bolt that came with the OE TRW control arms I put on..That came with it’s on bolts and washers..Brand name Febi Bilstein (Socket size to use 21 mm)
I just use the correct size ratchets 3/8” and 1/2” for the job! When it comes to the suspension..Once you tighten the bolts down where you can’t tighten them no more..Most of the time you dead on or close around the range torque specs which is needed! 👍🏾
I like your presentation. I just wanted to add that it'll cause premature wear to the control arm bushing if you don't tighten the carrier side bolts with the wheels on the ground. It's always best to tighten those with the full weight of the car on the wheels, where the car naturally rests. And yeah those shock boots seem rather excessively long, lol. I realize it's a used car my man, just can't unsee those 😎
Excellent video well filmed and intuitive. Thank you
Perfect video dawg right in time cause Im literally bout to change the exact same parts on my e63
Excellent video! Saved for when I do mine next. Thanks mate!
I like your videos. You take your time, you're careful, and you replace things the car needs. I'd make you an honorary German if I could, but there isn't any doubt you are a car guy!
Thanks bro! 😎 I honor and value your compliment with high regards of respect!
very good work my friend gb.
Great video ! No need for a bunch of unnecessary commentary. Just show us how it's done. Nice camera work too and I like that you made sure to preload it at the end before tightening everything up. I am putting camber bolts on 09 w211 and needed to see this. Thanks for taking the time to make this It really helped me a lot.
U welcome and Thanks for your comment!👍🏾
Pls let us know the value of camber before vs after installing your own camber adjusting bolt.
I had bought 4 pieces of Febi camber adjusting bolt before understanding that it's normal negative chamber value is at -1.4 degree +/-0.3 degree.
The tire shop reading for my W211 is -1.4 for right side vs -1.3 for left side. What if after inserting the Febi camber bolt the new reading comes to -1 to -0.9 degree?. Would it be still ok?.
W211 front toe in value is supposed to be ok at 0.1 degree. While current 0.3 degree for my W211 toe in value is supposed to be a bit too much.
Every week I would try to learn a bit more on how to properly maintain the W211 I just bought last year.
Regards
@@whlawson5812 I have the E350 Sport Package. Both left front is currently at 3 degrees negative and the right is at 2.5 degrees. I hope to get the camber bolts installed in a week. I have read that it will only improve the camber by maybe .5 degrees. It's not much but I can use all I can get. Really getting tired of having to buy new tires every 15K miles.
Excellent video. Thanks. About to do this on my w211 e500.
You welcome! Thanks for your comment! Yep after you finish 🏁 You will feel A good since of relief and accomplishment! 😁👍🏾
great job, if the suspension is not pneumatic then i have to use a coil spring to pinch the spring up ? thanks
Great video, I need to do this to my 2008 E350 4matic. Do you have the torque spec for the various joints' bolts?
Looks like this is Lower arm replacement too so definitely extra steps.
Your ball joint came off relatively easy. I tried this today on my 05 e320 (w211) and it would not budge! Used same tool and tightened as far as it would go, hammered on it, tried heating it up, WD-40 nothing. Took a break tried it all again, would not come loose. I could've gone tighter with the tool using a longer bar but was afraid the tool would snap. I gave up and put it back together
Tried loosing up the lower control arm bolt that's closer to the subframe of the car..Loosing it up and hand tightening it back down..So you have A little play In it..Spray some PB Blaster on the ball joint and let it sit for about 25 minutes and then reposition the ball joints tool..It might not be in the right position to get the job done..Then put A half inch ratchet on it or A breaker bar,if needed. Keep cranking it down until it bust down like it did In my video! You not going to break anything..It just take A good amount of pressure to bust them down..Mercedes are very safety cars..That makes it hard preventing, incidents and accidents!👍🏾
Brill tutorial have suscribed.
Thanks! I really appreciate it 👍🏾
很好
Wrong tools, wrong bolt for the shock absorber, wrong part because you should have bought the lemforder, but good effort 👌 💪
Didn't compress suspension to ride height before tightening everything down and didn't follow any torque specs.
No torque wrench?
love your vids. have you done the engine mounts?
Thanks! Nah haven’t done the engine mounts yet..Mines are fine for now!
Do you remember the size of the external torx bolt on the control arm bushing? The big bushing on the subframe. I went to do my control arm today just to find out it’s not an E18 socket (that’s what people on the forums said 😂😂)
Both bolts are the same size..Except the back head of the bolts..That takes different socket size! The one that takes the E18 Is the OEM bolt and the other is the OE! I used the same bolt that came with the original part I took off..(Branded Mercedes Benz) Instead of the bolt that came with the OE TRW control arms I put on..That came with it’s on bolts and washers..Brand name Febi Bilstein (Socket size to use 21 mm)
Amazing video. Great help indeed. Do you have any torque settings for the different fixings? Great job also👍
I just use the correct size ratchets 3/8” and 1/2” for the job! When it comes to the suspension..Once you tighten the bolts down where you can’t tighten them no more..Most of the time you dead on or close around the range torque specs which is needed! 👍🏾
@@legendarycars9997 thank you bro much appreciated 👍
Forgot to mention what a car, looks amazing. That M156 motor is legendary. One of the all time greats 👍
I like your presentation. I just wanted to add that it'll cause premature wear to the control arm bushing if you don't tighten the carrier side bolts with the wheels on the ground. It's always best to tighten those with the full weight of the car on the wheels, where the car naturally rests. And yeah those shock boots seem rather excessively long, lol. I realize it's a used car my man, just can't unsee those 😎
@@TheFeinspa all bolts torqued with car on ground. 😁😉
Hello. Did you deflate the air suspension before you removed the control arm?
No..You don’t have to deflate the air suspension to do this job!👍🏾
Also do you need to do wheel alignment after performing this?
Yes!👍🏾
Mine are due@ 130K miles
will the ball joints for the lower control arm come with the kit?
Nope..The ball joints and the lower control arm come separate.