Land Rover Series Steering Box Overhaul
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- This video shows the process of dismantling, assessing condition of components and re-building the Series 2, 2A and 3 steering box. Note that there are some differences, such as the column lock on this unit from an '82 Land Rover.
In the video I show an adjuster bung which I made to replace a damaged original. The new "off the shelf" part arrived this week, it is hardened but the working surface is not a ground finish as required. An overhaul kit is easily obtained, containing new bearings, gaskets and ball bearings. Fortunately, this steering box was in excellent condition and a straightforward job.
Overhaul is a relatively straight forward task and a steering box in good condition can be rebuilt without need for specialist tools. An understanding of how to adjust the angular contact bearings to obtain a condition of nil end-float but freedom of movement is the most important aspect.
Thanks for a really useful video. I've never done a steering box rebuild, but have a reasonable idea of what it should feel like by watching your video. Things like your demonstration of checking the adjuster for sticky threads, making it too tight, and then backing it off to had tightened - brilliant. These are the sort of things that just dont come out of a printed manual. Tomorrow's job will be the overhaul of my S2a steering box.
Very well done.... I've just sat and watched start to finish and see that you do an excellent job. I'm never critical of anyone's work and I'll always try and offer tips where I can. Another is that whenever doing those piddley things as were the small dia bearings, I'd do them over any kind of container which will catch the ones that want to drop and end up down the crack in the floor.... As of course they will always do. And your suggestion of a dummy end plate with a hole for the dial gauge is simply brilliant. I would have never have thought of that in a thousand years but can see that shimming accurately would be a 'breeze' this way.... Excellent video. Thank you
Another excellent video. Your careful attention to all the little details will result in a properly functioning, long lasting, and safe end unit. As a mechanic & machinist myself, it was a real treat to watch a true craftsman at work.
Kind words, thank you. I like to do these things just the once, sometimes it works out that way!
Phill.
As always, a treat to watch. And I agree with the comment below, a natural gift for teaching lives in you. Someday you might want to look into that possibility.
Thanks! I'm always happy to pass on what I've learnt, a lot of folks have been generous with their time in teaching me.
A tip is to get hold of a Tig welder. Securely clamp some scrap steel or heavy copper onto the part that requires heat and with the earth connected to this scrap, run the torch at low amps and or until you can see the scrap getting seriously hot. Red hot even. Its a safe way of heat input. The beginnings of white smoke from any oil in the join or seams is a good indicator that its near hot enough to 'crack' free with a solid blow at a chosen spot.
Excellent video, finally makes some sense of the Haynes instructions which leave a lot to be desired. This is the next job to do on our 1970 2A and I now feel much more confident in tackling the project. Many thanks. Stay safe.
i dont mean to be off topic but does anybody know of a method to get back into an instagram account?
I was stupid forgot the login password. I would love any assistance you can offer me
@Melvin Crosby Instablaster :)
@Jayce Jacob Thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and im trying it out now.
Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Jayce Jacob it worked and I actually got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thank you so much, you saved my account :D
@Melvin Crosby happy to help =)
Thanks for this video Im doing this job ATM and had reached part 1 in the haynes book of fiction.step 1 Remove the cover step 2........ Then wondered how does that cover come off.Threw book in bin watched your video. Thanks
Thanks for such a detailed video. I'm sure there are many of us out there that will refer back to this video over the years to come.
Thank you, you're welcome!
Excellent video and very informative. Thanks
Excellent and detailed video! Thanks
thank you. i learned a lot.
Great useful video, that's my next job on my series 3. One bit of advice I'd give is to handle the ball bearings over a folded blanket so they don't bounce all over the garage if (when!)you drop them.
Thanks, glad it helps. That is a very good idea, perhaps one of those magnetic trays on the bench would work too? As we all know, it certainly is a case of when not if!
Good to see another Land Rover video, have to sit down and watch it with dinner.
Thanks, enjoy :)
Great video, thanks, I really enjoy them.
Very instructive and thorough, you have a natural gift for teaching, at least me.
Greetings from Norway.
Thank you, glad you found it interesting
Somewhere down the line my 109 has had an event. I noticed this when I had both pedal boxes out and could see that th steering colomn went to the right, once I'd seen it you could see it in the steering wheel as well, your right hand would be slightly closer to you tha your left. The steering box bracket that comes off the chassis was pretty well bent. Rectified now and amazingly the box is good , smooth and even holds its oil!!
The steering boxes are actually a little offset, it's quite normal. Sounds like yours was in a shunt if the upright was bent though!
Serris one and two are interchanable but S2 is longer. in the shaft and looks odd when installed
@@simonworman7898 s2 in a series one looks odd. I didn’t know the shaft was longer in the two. I have a spare and it’s almost identical. But two of the four bolts holding it to the chassis plate are slightly bigger. Mines 61 with horn push in banjo wheel
Good job !
Excellent video really enjoyed watching that thank you, its my next job to do.
Great stuff as always
Thanks
A job I hope I never have to do on mine but you have made it seem a bit more achievable. Cheers
Cheers, I think swapping the steering boxes will be the fun part - not a lot of room to maneuver but it may be a good excuse to have the offside wing off and check over all the hidden areas.
Thanks for sharing your great work, nice to put a face to the voice as well. Many thanks
Hope you got over your cold quickly.
plus gas.......wonderful words
Just completed, 1974 Series 3.
Great video with plenty of detail. Did you have to use the loctite hydraulic seal on the rocker shaft adjuster, there does not seem to be any kind of seal shown in the parts cataloge?
Thanks, no sealant used on the adjuster and it's not really necessary. I suppose you could use a goodly amount of wellseal on the thread if you wanted, it won't set but will help keep the oil at bay.
Hi Steamwally ! Love your videos ... I am a total novice but now have a 1970 series 2a Land Rover and I will learn and will restore it ! .. when you say you have “ cleaned parts up “ such as the splines on the steering column etc would you mind telling me what do you use ? Seems so much of restoration is cleaning years of grim internally and externally ... .I would love to know how and what you use . Many thanks for your wonderful work
Matt
Matt, thanks - always good to know the videos are useful. Much of restoration is indeed cleaning, there is certainly an art to reducing the workload! One of the best degreasers I have found which is easily available is Swarfega "Jizer", you can hose off the new biodegradable one and it's very good. Brake cleaner is also very useful. The rest really is just hard graft, medical grade stainless wire brushes are useful for steel parts, the nylon versions for brass and aluminium and bottle brushes are useful too. I like scotchbrite pads for larger parts. More powerful decarbonising agents like "Metsoak" are available and do a lot of the work for you, but they are quite industrial and not necessarily recommended for the home workshop!
Phill.
Hi SteamWally I’ve two questions if you could help. Should you try wiping off any grease from the worm part of shaft and bearings before closing up to fill with ep90 or does it not have any detrimental effect. Also I’ve used a thick piece of gasket at the end plate as I did not have enough plastic shims so two steel shims one plastic and gasket paper. Will that matter in the long term?
great step by step production! Did you apply any gasket sealer to the gasket or just the dry gasket itself?
Thanks, I used Wellseal on the gasket, can't go wrong with that.
SteamWally - TECH QUESTION - I want to check the oil pressure on my 1970 Series 2A Land Rover. The oil pressure opening seems to be something like a M10-1.25, but that is a bit loose on my Oil Pressure switch. What is the tool or nozzle size I need for a perfectly fitting oil pressure tester?
Do you need part numbers or more information? Seems to be some sort of British size fitting. I have an oil pressure switch which fits
perfectly, however can't seem to find any bolt or thread to match this.
What do you use to test oil pressure on an old Series 2A vehicle?
Af spanners or whitworth
Informacion en español gracias
Hi where did you order bearing kit from?
Wow, what a great video🍺 did you say you replaced the chassis with a galvanized one?
Thanks! Yes, WRD is on a galv chassis now, still feeling poor but it was the right decision. I'd had the old chassis patched several times and every couple of years it would develop a rust hole somewhere else. With the body lifted away, it was quite bad in all the areas which trap water. It was a case of have it done or get rid..
steamwally any videos of the chassis replacement?
@@graemelliott3942 Sadly not, the swap it's self was carried out by a local Land Rover specialist. I just don't have the time to take on something like that myself and could have the vehicle out of use for the year or so it would probably have taken me to do it! I'll probably do another walk around some time and show a bit more of what has been done recently.
SteamWally - TECH QUESTION - I want to check the oil pressure on my 1970 Series 2A Land Rover. The oil pressure opening seems to be something like a M10-1.25, but that is a bit loose on my Oil Pressure switch. What is the tool or nozzle size I need for a perfectly fitting oil pressure tester?
Do you need part numbers or more information? Seems to be some sort of British size fitting. I have an oil pressure switch which fits
perfectly, however can't seem to find any bolt or thread to match this.
What do you use to test oil pressure on an old Series 2A vehicle?
SteamWally - TECH QUESTION - I want to check the oil pressure on my 1970 Series 2A Land Rover. The oil pressure opening seems to be something like a M10-1.25, but that is a bit loose on my Oil Pressure switch. What is the tool or nozzle size I need for a perfectly fitting oil pressure tester?
Do you need part numbers or more information? Seems to be some sort of British size fitting. I have an oil pressure switch which fits
perfectly, however can't seem to find any bolt or thread to match this.
What do you use to test oil pressure on an old Series 2A vehicle?