How Much Power Does the Fan Really Use?
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- Опубліковано 7 лип 2024
- Today I run my Land Rover Series III on the dyno to find out how much power the mechanical fan uses.
00:00 Intro
01:02 Onto the Dyno
01:16 First Run With Fan
03:55 Second Run With Fan
06:02 Removing the Fan
06:31 Third Run Without Fan
07:28 The Results
08:25 Ford F150 Fan Results
10:02 More Runs for More Data
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This Week With Cars - Episode 0342
#landrover #series #classiccars - Авто та транспорт
Also remember that this is rear wheel horsepower so the numbers shown on the charts are 15% less than the actual horsepower that the fan consumes.
Nice to see a well cared for Land Rover in original kit. Not jacked up, big tires ,and an oversized V8 stuffed into it.
Moding is the only thing that makes it interesting...
@@kealahau6727you’re entitled to your incorrect opinion.
Sounds as if the camshaft has had its day, probably (from my own S1 experience) not helped by clogged up oil galleries. Loss of 25 ish bhp is not a sign of a cared for vehicle. Why not get the engine up to full strength before investing in an electric fan and losing originality?
While a fixed blade fan will use more power as RPM rises, it's far more of a factor on a dyno where the airflow through the radiator is static. Going down the road, the airflow through the radiator reduces this load considerably. Much like a propeller on a boat/airplane at it's design cruise speed.
Very good point. I believe it was a Banks video I saw they actually have a dyno with dynamic speed adjusted fans
sure but you don't really need the hp cruising down the road. some examples of where you do need it is to climb a sand dune which will be slow speed, high revs. or to pull someone out of a bog or up a hill.
@@6226superhurricaneEven there you dont need it, it takes some time for the heat to get from the engine block in the coolant. Even when the coolant gets the heat there is still "cold" coolant in the lower area of the radiator. Even than there is alot of thermal mass to absorb the heat before you get critical temperatures.
good video , Volvo during the late 70's early 80's had these types of fans the worked incredility good and did this test on their CIS engines with and without the fans and found a difference of 5/6 hp at 2650 rpms and as much as 9.5 hp at 70 mph or above, so i upgraded to clutch type fan and noticed a difference right away and got 2.5 mpg better
Made a noticeable difference on my MGB.
in the early 70's I had a 302 cubic inch Ford v8 , on the dyno, removing the fan gained 12 hp. interestingly so did removing the air cleaner, a gain of 12 hp
In horsepower numbers, it doesn't seem like a huge difference, but a 7,5% increase in power is a LOT. Think about what you would have to do tuningwise to get that number.
I would say that is a significant power gain for zero cost. Leaving the engine fan in place when you have fitted an electric one is a practice that has always puzzled me.
wait til that eletric fan fails.
4x4s should be robust. Electrics arent robust.
Landrovers puzzle me
@@TheKodiak72 From experience (in a kit-car with very poor airflow), should the electric fan fail, as long as you don't end up in a standing queue of traffic, the natural airflow due to the vehicle's movement is easily enough to cool the system.
The fan blade on a AC is that size 1/6 hp to 1/8 hp to max of 1/4 hp to turn it up to full speed.
Although not a factor with the Landie a fixed fan can make a lot of noise at high engine revs. I think you could hear the difference between the with and without fan runs in this video. Don't know if that was noticeable inside. Viscous fans usually go to full slip at about 3k rpm so should not get any noisier after that.
I found that very interesting. Many years ago I was told 'if you fit an electric fan then remove the old one as it is not needed and will impede performance. So now we know. Yes there are variables but not that much gain really in this case. You made a good point which I was going to mention and that is you probably won't be running your Land Rover at 70 MPH but that was a good 'base line' to keep things on track. Thanks Steve please keep up the good work. 👍👍
I can remember driving my 850 Mini in the 70s when the fanbelt snapped. The charging light came on instantly but the biggest clue was the sudden surge in power - like I was suddenly driving a Cooper S!
I've owned and driven old Land Rovers for the last 30+ years now. Here in the UK it was often talked about as one of the major HP improvements alongside free wheeling hubs, overdrive etc. Given the stock motor was stated as 65bhp its quicte interesting to see one on a dyno and to see the difference. I think it proves that in the real world its not worth pulling the fan off of a series truck. After all the fan and rad were set up to keep the engine cool for a wide range of conditions and environments. Nice to see another RHD over there. When my brother emigrated to Texas from the UK he shipped his S3 over too. great fun driving one in the USA.
I have a 1966 Lancia Fulvia which came with a mechanical fan driven from the crank pulley. My car has a modified 1300cc engine which revs out at 8000rpm. I decided to remove the fan , belt and pulley as I believe in this story of power loss. Your video confirmed this. Never had the chance to dyno my car with or without.
Interesting to see your results, that is a massive percentage of the total power used by the fan!
I have removed the engine driven fan from my RZ4E Isuzu pickup, combined with a tyre size change from 255/60/18 to 235/65/18 (identical dia) and A rated for fuel economy tyres i have seen a dramatic improvement in economy. 40.5mpg UK average over 10,000 miles with some journeys in the 50's! If you are not pulling massive loads in high temperatures get that fan off!
Your mom gets fans off
I’ll see myself out😂
I had a Rover 80 fitted wìth this engine. It was a luxury saloon / sedan which was virtually silent, except for the fan whine. I removed the fan and in 2 years of UK driving never noticed any increase in engine temperature, except when stuck in stationary traffic. I then fitted an aftermarket electric fan which only came on once in 2 years.
The car was quieter and warmed up better on cold days. I felt it had more power and fuel consumption improved by a small but measurable amount as well.
Thanks Steve!
I have a suzuki vitara geotracker 99, and replaced the switched viscous fan and get and instant feeling of a lighter engine and better throttle response. I like your video where you put numbers to my feeling, thanks
Love the dyno videos. This made me remember when you had the mustang club come in and do runs. Honestly I love all you videos, but these are pretty cool and interesting to watch.
Much thanks. I love those old Landies!
No way that this Land Rover is so low on power, wow! Im impressed... Great video!
That was super interesting and the effort it took you to prove and re prove was very good of you to do the work to find out. I have a diesel series 2.25 liter which i have owned 25 years and i have from the beginning always done the bmw ethos of efficient dynamics ie lots of tiny things adding up to a lot and consequently got my gas mileage up around 38mpg and more at times but the 38 is about avg. so 3.9 diffs , freewheeling hubs,O/D,fan removed,larger wheels to aid taller gearing, ep75 gear oil all round. But mostly a light right foot and backing off when climbing any kind of long incline
Very interesting....took mine off 30 plus years ago.
Would imagine be a bit quieter as well.
Nick in the UK.
Great video. Lovely to see the true evidence provided by somebody who truly knows what they are talking about - good work!
There are more advantages to be had from removing the fixed mechanical fan from the LR S3 so long as there is a fully functional electric fan:
1) Quicker warm up of the engine, which will benefit the longevity and be a distinct advantage in winter when the heating is required.
2) The mechanical fan is a PITA in deep wading that the LR is capable of. It churns up and sprays water throughout the engine bay, potentially soaking the electrics. Without it you can rely on a bow wave and a depression in the engine bay to keep the water below the external level to such an extent that water can flood over the bonnet due to the depth and the engine will still suck clean air under the bonnet and the electrics will stay dry. The radiator is kept cool by the water
3) The woeful automotive fan belts can barely transmit the power to the fan, alternator/dynamo and water pump. Remove the fan and take the strain off the fan belt. Alternatively fit an industrial fan belt.
In this application the fan is not in a shroud so its effectiveness is significantly reduced and you could expect that it is oversized just to account for this inefficiency.
7.5% power increase is not to be sniffed at. Imagine what engine modifications would have to be made to attain that figure say, multiple carbs, tuned exhaust etc. Removing the mechanical fan is a no cost improvement in power and probably a reduction in fuel consumption.
The LR cooling fan installation is very poor from all aspects and the fact that an electric fan has been deemed to be necessary shows how ineffectual the standard system is. Why waste power and fuel on such inefficiency?
great stuff thanks
The other thing to think about is fuel consumption, for a given speed it'll be more economical.
Interesting video. Great to take data on something to prove what it actually does!
Fascinating test, I don't think I've ever seen this test before...
Efficiency, fuel economy and less noise were the reasons auto manufacturers went on to electric fans that were controlled by a thermostat switch. Those percentage figures for power can translate to good fuel economy on long distance drives. At 40 Kph a vehicle pushes in enough air through the radiator to not need a fan, and the colder the ambient temperature the more a fan is not needed. Mechanical fans and also the old style "V" belts take up energy to drive them.
Now you know how much the fan uses when stopped at a light while revving the engine. Having the vehicle actually moving down the road will reduce the fans drag as the air is already moving leaving the fan much less work to do and may even add some power if you are driving fast enough. Not likely in a stock Land Rover.😉😊 You don't need a fan at all if you are moving at least 30 mph.
My favorite part about using a flex fan is when the blade breaks off from flexing so much and cuts though 12 tubes in the rad leaving a person stranded at the side of the road in the middle of the night with the temp at -40° F. Don't ask me how I know.😒😒
If you loose 10PS by using a fan, it means the fan is using 10PS or doing something (moving air) that requires 10PS. That’s a lot of air that could be moved and a large set of blades is required. So it kind of makes sense that the gain is rather limited. Nvertheless interesting to have it checked.
@@ErikB750 I'm just pointing out that if the fan moves air at 60 mph and your car is going 60 mph the fan really is not consuming any horsepower just parasitic losses. If the car is going 80 mph then the fan is trying to spin faster and is actually driving the engine a tiny bit. It would be very difficult to measure any of this and it certainly wouldn't be worth the effort.🙋♂😊
Even an 150 amp alternator at full rated output consumes less than 3 Hp.
@@MatthewBerginGarage true as well ! So the faster you go, the more power you win 😁😉
I've been there and done that. Stranded on the side of a motorway, after the week-old electric fan shed a blade and put it straight through the radiator. The breakdown service got me another radiator and I drove the 170 miles home relying on the airflow of the car's movement to cool it. I did have to stop a couple of times, as it was a very busy day and there were numerous traffic jams with stop-start traffic.
Lovely car... Awesome video
and that's why a vicious fan clutch wins its free wheeling till its needed.
Interesting test; thanks for posting.
If you keep the original fan you need to fit the fan-shroud as well, so that it can suck more air through the radiator.
I've got a 62 IIA 88" that is relatively stock. I did an electric fan conversion a few years back and I am quite happy with it. I have no good way to measure the HP increase but 3-4 HP at the wheels is not insignificant. Also runs quieter, and gets about 1-2mpg better, and less wear and tear on the belt and water pump. at 60mph I get about 18mpg (safari hard top)
One gotcha is making sure you've got enough alternator for the fan. The Series III in this has a lucas alternator. Not sure how many amps they were good for. I put in a 60 amp delco (replacing a 40) as part of my conversion. I had to play some games to get the original ammeter to still work but I did it.
It's not just the more rwhp but also the slightly faster throttle response at higher rpm ( yes I realize on the Landy that's a oxymoron) and faster getting to operating temp and less engine noise. Did this to all my vehicles back in 70s
there is no throttle response, maybe gets noisier if you press the accelerator, that's about IT
@@mb106429 Nonsense, noisier from having no fan? its the opposite. But you could really increase throttle response, as there is less mass to move without a fan.
@@gabrielv.4358 I was talking about throttle response, not fan noise.
The noise mentioned was the enging noise in response to the throttle, when you press the throttle the response is loads more noise.... and a tiny bit of power
Awesome concept for a video! I'm rebuilding my 4cyl pinto, and wondering about fans... especially without a shroud / clutch!
Increase sounds reasonable as transmission oil has warmed. In sixties in U.K. it was generally considered that a sun shield on windscreen cost 5mph and likewise a roof rack. The 3hp gain seems reasonable as it is a low speed long stroke engine. Remember them well from the military biggest cause of failure was high speed running on rear axle shafts or peaking out traction in soft going. Often finished schemes just using front wheel drive as runout of rear half shafts.
I was just shocked to see the speedo reach 70 MPH. My old 2A would only do that if it was pushed off of a high enough cliff. Then I realized that there was no rolling resistance from the front wheels and no air resistance at all and it made more sense.
Nice Landy!
My '76 Valiant runs the factory 3-core, HD cooling radiator, shroud & clutch fan with 7-blades. Running a 318, Thermoquad 4-bbl, dual exhaust with a cam better suited to the combo (2.76 rear gear, mediocre compression). I've had friends who have put on aluminum radiators & electric fans, but for the cost and issues they've had...it's not worth it to me even if I got a few HP at best.
I have not driven a car with a mechanically driven fan for years. I am in a relatively cool climate (UK) and found that most of the time the electric fan would only start if I was stuck in traffic on a hot day. Back in the 1970s and 1980s we used to use fans and shrouds from Fiat 128s in our engine swapped cars. From memory I think they used about 7 amps, cheaper than an accessory fan and they had shrouds as part of the assembly. Of course a lot of cars are retro fitted with electric fans at a point in their life when the cooling system is underperforming. Free horsepower, quicker warm up, reduced noise and an easier life for the water pump.
I had to have the faulty speedo changed on a car, back in the '90s. The garage unplugged some wiring during the work and forgot to plug the electric radiator fan back in. It was fortnight before it caused any problem - and that was only because I was in stop-start traffic on a very hot day.
My last pommie car was a MGC GT 69 mod, it ran a plastic fan, seemed to work just fine!! Mal in au.
Nice Landy 👍
I love your Landy mate,nice car. Hi from New Zealand!
I think there was a FIAT with a thermostatically controlled clutch that drove the fan, I guess variably controlled pitch blades would be the ultimate. On the Air cooled racing Porsches, they accounted for the power taken for the fan (about 10 hp if I remember correctly, remarkably low for a racing engine, and accounted for by no radiator drag) so it could be compared with other engines.
Seen various videos about removing the mechanical fan. Seems every test shows more power and torque without the mechanical fan
4HP on 40i s 10%. which is non-trivial. There's also the fact that in a temperate climatr, the fan is likely over-cooling, which delays warm-up and wastes fuel.
You are also gaining fuel mileage and, of course, throttle response. There is a reason all modern vehicles have gone to electric radiator fans and skeleton alternators. Not a huge gain but an easy one to acquire. Over about 35 MPH the movement of the vehicle is enough to keep it cool so some of the readings might have been influenced by the hot engine requiring alternator current to run the electric fan that under normal driving would not be necessary.
Also saves fuel as it warms up quicker by not pulling extra air thru the rad, not a lot, but any is good. In the UK we used to remove them for winter to aid heater and rad temps.
Totally agree, in winter that will make a huge difference.
I had a series 3 Diesel in northern England, In winter I used to remove the fan and block half the radiator with a sheet of ply. It still never got too hot, but at least the heater worked, just😂.
I once switched from mechanical to electric on a first gen Grand Cherokee. Forget power, the low load smoothness sold it to me. Takeoff from a stop felt sooo much better without the fan.
Just a shroud would help a lot with the efficiency of the cooling fan, is ridiculous heaving a pulling fan so far away and without any device to focus its power to pass air through the radiator
A series LR, especially a RHD must be a rarity in the States. The experiment is interesting but it more or less confirms scientifically what I always stood for: Do not modify factory equipment, it is designed and set for optimal performance under varying conditions. I hope you know how to operate correctly the Transfer Box (Red and Yellow levers) on this old boy. Not many people do either in the UK or elsewhere.
With solid (old style) fan blades, biggest difference I have seen with SBC was about 20+ hp. I have not tested with my H3, but when the cluch fan is on, it feels like towing a small trailer. When I replaced the fan with two electric ones of my -79 Blazer, there was a noticeable increase in mileage, as it has Turbo 350 that is 3 speed only, so the engine rews all the time. And, it is no longer a leaf blower when I start it in the fall...
Think about all the trash that gets into air filters from excessive fan😮
Install an electric fan with 2 speed control it will be more economical ,,, or a fan with electro clutch Peugeot style ,, but all is adding complications and weak links ,, great analysis , thank you !!
Rebuilding my mk 3 owned since 1983. I did fit a kenlowe fan in the late 1980s, saving fuel the main purpose, it still works so it will be refitted,I wonder how much fuel the freewheeling hubs save, i have fairy ones fitted same firm has the overdriive, interesting post.
Got fairies on mine, I’d say there’s a very small increase in mpg but it’s mainly beneficial for not having the ujs turning when I’m parking ( lwb) as lock to lock is usable. When the hubs are in the ujs kick before I get to lock stops.
200 Tdi no fan of any type but big series two rad. And 33.3 mpg average over the last 1200 miles
You need the fan to blow air around the engine as much as anything because the bulkhead is a real air blocker. I run the fan and no free wheel hubs, because if I want economy a 58’ landy is a real bad place to start :D Nice S3. Very ‘clean’.
These vehicles cooling systems were designed to tow off road, and as a static or slow moving machine compatible, with the power take off on the rear of the transfer box. The cooling system is over engineered, and in 9 out of 10 cases, will not need the mechanical fan. Summer, summer towing, off road slow speed yes, but in these cases, an electric fan is sufficient. The radiator/and general capacity is huge.
In tuning terms a 7 or 10 % gain is really impressive, I was surprised it was so much !
The problem with flexing blades is that it takes power to make them flex. There is no such thing as a free lunch.
Back in the late 1950s, early 1960s there were articles in the UK motoring press about people who had made DIY electric cooling fans and removed the metal fan. More m.p.g. was claimed. Kenlowe soon began selling fans as an aftermarket mod and much later electric fans were fitted to many new cars as standard.
70 mph nice. Not sure I could push my ‘63 that high! More Landy vids please.
I was thinking the same thing.
I just bought a 66 Series2A and on the trip home , saw maybe
63 mph .Lol
thank you, very clear explanation and very consistent test.
Just for the record I run a 200 tdi defender with no viscous fan and no electric fan, hasn’t had a fan in 15 years, no problems whatsoever in traffic, towing or heatwaves, obviously more thermo efficient than 2:25 petrol but just putting that out there
For most on road vehicles electric fans using less power from the engine can add a few mpg's. If something happened to the battery or alternator getting towed to a place for repairs isn't a problem.
For off road where if something happened to the battery or alternator, an engine powered fan would let you drive the vehicle farther than an electric fan could. This could get out of a situation and back to a safe place to repair your vehicle.
For drag racing or some other short course racing running an electric fan and water pump might give you a slight HP advantage over mechanical versions.
All this said, you just have to determine what your needs are and use what best fits those needs.
Doing this testing on a Dyno gives a definite value to how much HP it takes to run the fan. If you have several versions of fans to test on one engine this could show the difference between fan types. Your 4 blade steel fan against a 5 or 7 blade or even a 2 blade fan. Same with flex fans, getting several blade counts. Clutch fans might be an interesting variable to add in also.
Also running a mechanical fan in water is a bad idea. You want to have a fan you can disable or turn off easily if you think you will be doing any water crossings.
Very interesting. Can you do an alternator test with a constant electric load and then without any load?
Back in the 70s, I had a Toyota with a fluid coupled fan, allowing it to not turn at engine speed, but still draw air thru. You could stop the fan with your hand. Spooky, but I saw it done.
Still used on new Toyota 4WD’s in Australia
Viscous clutch fans on high horsepower motors makes heavy traffic safer but still little power robbing at high speeds!
Be interesting to dyno the vehicle running with the alternator under load running an electric fan, though in theory an electric fan wouldn’t run as constant as the engine driven one but nonetheless be intriguing to see a comparative power loss…
A typical fan on a small vehicle will run at about 4 Amps x 12 Volts = 48 Watts. That's roughly 0.064 H.P.
The other factor is the ratio of the crank pulley to the fan/water pump pulley. Some fans run at crank speed, some faster, some slower. This varies HP used to run the same size fan. One things for sure, Landrover built that car with no horsepower, and it still has most of it left 😂.
True you could change your pulley size to make the fan spin slower and get some power back while still leaving the fan.
On a moving vehicle all types of fans will windmill as road speed rises.
The biggest advantages of removing a mechanic fan is faster warm up and improved fuel. Consumption
I saw a test in the states where they tested the fan , water pump and alternator and the alternator used by far the most power to run. Swop to an electric fan and the alternator needed more hp
twice a year
Always interesting to see dyno results for a vehicle and a knowledgeable analysis of those results.
I love these type videos.
Thank you for sharing this information. Can I ask what are the front tyres? thank you in advance
All of the tires are the same they are BF Goodrich Mud-Terrain
Interesting video I'm assuming this was a direct drive fan with no viscous clutch... I'd love to see what the horsepower change is with the transmission brake versus the x brake .....
they did an extensive test on engine masters s2e02 on that subject and the results were kind of mind blowing if y'all curious
Sad they put their videos behind a pay wall
It sounds like the engine has a knock. FWIW, back in the 70s I owned a '65 rhd 88. It had seen had use in its life, so I rebuilt the engine. Later I installed a Rochester carb that made a big change in the power.
more series!
That old mechanical fan doesnt even have a shroud.
Fit a shroud and you could get away with a fan with less aggressive pitch
Tyre pressures on the rollers looked a bit low - that will sap the power a bit!
A very interesting test 👍
Interesting bye bye fan!
But was either one on a viscous clutch? I think that's the thing that eats more horsepower than a solid fan. I swapped the viscous clutch fan on my pickup to an electric fan mainly because the lift one of the previous owners did was sketchy. But now I've been thinking of doing the same to my Volvo 240 to save some fuel.
Wow 40 rwhp. Pretty amazing gear reduction engineering making the Rover so capable, I mean to still go anywhere and modern Jeep can. Awesome stuff.
You also remove noise and fuel consumption at cruising speed
Thanks for sharing this cool test! How would this Land Rover do with a light plastic fan bolted in place. I have an extremely original ‘72 MGB with overdrive. The engine has about 88hp with the twin HIF carbs, but no air pump. I’d like to see how much could be saved around 3200 RPM when on the Interstate.
I don’t think the weight of the fan makes a lot of difference, I think blade pitch, fan diameter, and number of blades are the largest factors.
I ran my Slll for many years without the fan.
Quieter too.
a 7 % decrease in fuel will nice thank you.
Really Interesting video. Just a shame you didn't do a couple more runs with the fan on. When you are talking such marginal gains in the measurable units. There was an 8% variance in your benchmark runs. Using the upper and lower benchmark datum points the Landy gained between 10% & 19% power without the fan. Ask any engine tuner is that sort of gain amazing for a no cost 10minute job. Hell yes it is! Its all in the stats😅
As someone who lost a finger in the auto industry.
Removing fixed metal fan is removing a genuine weapon waiting to eat parts of your body.
A fan is more like a revlimiter, it won't hurt performance much on low revs.
fit a thermo fan - better warm up + no power loss and = all around better for an engine than a mechanical unit ! = get real !
I would be interested in seeing how it improved the driveability of the car on the road rather than just rolling road figures as i feel thats where the difference may be more apperant
I wonder if there's a way to test this at road going Speeds where air is already being pushed through the radiator theoretically taking less power to turn the fan?
I was driving a 79 ford with a 460 cruising down the freeway and the fan clutch locked up from a bearing going bad and i couldnt believe how hard it pulled the engine down! Felt like someone dropped an anchor!
I have a friend with a dyno and a huge fan wall that can give you the same air speed as at each speed, I have been thinking about using that dyno for some interesting tests.
Those fans are horrendous, waste loads of power and fuel. You need every drop you can get in these vehicles, they drink it like a fish.
Get rid of the fan, and upgrade to a serpentine belt if you can because the original belt is as tough as old boots and must waste a horsepower as well. The metal fans are really dangerous if anything gets caught in them.
The fan is never needed, maybe parked in the sun idling on a hot day. In the UK in winter people used to put carpet or something over the grille to try to get the engine warm enough for the heater to work, also back in the day Antifreeze or a working thermostat used to be a luxury and people would often start the landrover on a frosty morning and the howling gale of cold air through the radiator would freeze it solid and they'd drive off unknowing...... and boil the engine up a couple of miles down the road!
The most exciting part with these fans is if you go into deep water and rev it, the totally rigid unforgiving steel blades bend forward and eat the RADIATOR ! which is a fantastic design feature for you to ambush yourself with on your 1st off-road outing in the woods, so don't forget your sarnies! :-)
I grew up with land rovers
What RPM did you run the Landie to?
One of the finest engines out there in my opinion.. the old ultra reliable 2 1/4 petrol. These things were built to be used anywhere in the world on the fuel available. I’ve stripped these engines down because they were smoking or burning oil and even when they were totally worn out through lack of maintenance, they’d still run and sound like a sewing machine.
It’s also worth remembering.. when this engine first became available most cars needed a rebuild or a decoke after 40,000 miles and 70bhp was a respectable figure in the 60s and 70s. Over 40 years of service in a few different variants which included the 3 bearing being updated to a 5 and the engine being bored out to a 2.5.
Unfortunately, many of these engines have been scrapped now because they were fitted with the tdi engines out of rotted discos. We were all told that diesel was the future and petrol will kill us all… I’ve since learnt my lesson, I don’t listen to the liars!
I absolutely agree. These were really excellent engines, far better quality than many others that have come and gone. I've rebuilt the original one in mine(a 1973) only once, about 25 years ago, and it's still doing sterling service. Cheers!
In actual fact the bore size is exactly the same between 2.25 and 2.5, including 200 and 300 TDI. The only difference between 2.25 and 2.5 is the 2.5 is the stroke. I nearly built a 2.25 5 main bearing and converted to 2.5 TDI fitting a 2.5 crankshaft and TDI conrods and pistons with a 200 TDI cylinder head as a one off project.
producing that amount of power, how can they wear out?
@@mb106429 Materials are very different today compared with the past.
Filthy thirsty engines is my opinion.
If you take the alternator off you will get 5 more horses
I wouldn’t take the fan off a Series there designed to run all day long without the car actually moving
You didn;t really compare the graphs for the 2 cars properly. The point with the flex fan is perfectly demonstrated by the power graph for the Ford where the power loss due to fan shrinks a lot as rev's increase, the power gain is in the upper midrange, whereas for the Landy the power difference continues through to higher RPM
Thats exactly what I say in the video.